Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:25 AM - Re: Re: Landing accident tonight 601HDS or incident... (Gary Gower)
2. 12:38 AM - Re: 601 HD cruise expectations (chrisoz@bmail.com.au)
3. 02:07 AM - Re: Old 701 New Windshield (Paul Mulwitz)
4. 02:07 AM - Re: Re: 601 HD cruise expectations (BIANCO Tadeusz Forgacz)
5. 04:46 AM - Re: Flat tires (Edward Moody II)
6. 06:51 AM - Rivit puller (Bob Gibfried)
7. 07:29 AM - Re: Rivit puller (Aaron)
8. 07:53 AM - Re: Rivit puller (N5SL)
9. 09:35 AM - Building Wing Spars (Todd Osborne)
10. 10:02 AM - Re: Flat tires (JOHN STARN)
11. 10:06 AM - Re: Building Wing Spars (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
12. 10:29 AM - Re: Rivit puller (JOHN STARN)
13. 10:42 AM - Re: Building Wing Spars (Carlos Sa)
14. 11:25 AM - Re: Re: Rivit puller ()
15. 11:32 AM - Re: Building Wing Spars (B Johnson)
16. 12:02 PM - Re: Building Wing Spars (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
17. 12:25 PM - Re: Re: Rivit puller (N5SL)
18. 01:13 PM - Re: Re: Rivit puller ()
19. 02:10 PM - Radio Interference from GPS (Clive Richards)
20. 03:52 PM - Blue-skying: Anyone know of notebook PC-based instruments? (deglass1@aol.com)
21. 04:12 PM - Re: Building Wing Spars (William J. Naumuk)
22. 04:16 PM - Re: Rivit puller (Gary Gower)
23. 04:41 PM - Re: Building Wing Spars (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
24. 04:58 PM - Re: Blue-skying: Anyone know of notebook PC-based (Stephen R. Look)
25. 05:14 PM - Re: Blue-skying: Anyone know of notebook PC-based instrum (mikeandlaurie3@netzero.net)
26. 05:47 PM - Re: Building Wing Spars (Zodie Rocket)
27. 07:17 PM - Re: Building Wing Spars (Carlos Sa)
28. 07:48 PM - Glass instruments on computer (scotty scotty)
29. 07:59 PM - Projects or completions in SC? (Kevin Thorp)
30. 09:28 PM - Re: Blue-skying: Anyone know of notebook PC-based instruments? (Craig Payne)
31. 10:03 PM - Re: A80 A-65 Continental Question (From Matronics list member) (Dave and Pam Fisher)
32. 10:03 PM - Old 701 New Windshield (Dave and Pam Fisher)
33. 10:14 PM - Re: Glass instruments on computer (NYTerminat@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Landing accident tonight 601HDS or incident... |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Gary Gower <ggower_99@yahoo.com>
Thanks a lot Roy, satisfied.
Saludos
Gary Gower
Do not archive.
"royt.or@netzero.com" <royt.or@netzero.com> wrote:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "royt.or@netzero.com"
A few notes from from my files related to my gear failure was at a tower controlled
airport. After my INCIDENT, I talked to the NTSB on the phone and to the
FAA in person. The FAA inspected my logs, license, medical, looked at the plane,
and DID NOT call the landing with the gear failure an accident.
http://www.ntsb.gov/aviation/report.htm
Federal regulations require operators to notify the NTSB immediately of aviation
accidents and certain incidents. An accident is defined as an occurrence associated
with the operation of an aircraft that takes place between the time any
person boards the aircraft with the intention of flight and all such persons
have disembarked, and in which any person suffers death or serious injury, or
in which the aircraft receives substantial damage. An incident is an occurrence
other than an accident that affects or could affect the safety of operations
(49 CFR 830). The report should be filed with the nearest NTSB regional office.
A phone call is sufficient initially, but a written follow-up will be required.
and from http://www.access.gpo.gov/nara/cfr/waisidx_03/49cfr830_03.html
Substantial damage means damage or failure which adversely affects the structural
strength, performance, or flight characteristics of the aircraft, and which
would normally require major repair or replacement of the affected component.
Engine failure or damage limited to an engine if only one engine fails or is
damaged, bent fairings or cowling, dented skin, small punctured holes in the skin
or fabric, ground damage to rotor or propeller blades, and damage to landing
gear, wheels, tires, flaps, engine accessories, brakes, or wingtips are not
considered substantial damage for the purpose of this part.
Regards,
Roy
N601RT: CH601HDS, nose gear, Rotax 912ULS, All electric, IFR equipped,
476hrs, 576 landings
---------------------------------
Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort.
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: 601 HD cruise expectations |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: chrisoz@bmail.com.au
> From: "Darin McLEAN" <darin@dm-electronics.com.au>
> Subject: Zenith-List: 601HD cruise expectations
>
> I'm looking at buying a 601HD.
> I'll definately be using a 80hp Jabiru 2200 engine.
> Is it too much to expect 110mph (95 knots) cruise (sustainable for cross
> country)
> in a HD with 80hp?
Hello Darin,
the fat wing of the HD model keeps the plane from exceeding 100 knots straight
and level with 80 hp. The best I ever got with a Rotax 912, alone, taildragger
version, half fuel, was 97 knots flat out. My cruise was 88 knots at 5200
rpm, max permissible constant rpm.
The fastest I ever went was 125 knots in a 45 degree dive, the wing acts very
well as a dive brake!
The Jabiru 2.2 has not got the performance of the Rotax 912 as the direct
drive restricts prop size, and the engine is in general not as powerful.
With a 601 HD with nosewheel and 2.2 Jab you can realistically expect 80 knots
cruise, sorry. The wheel spats and the high gloss paint are not going to give
you any noticable improvement. Get rid of the nosewheel and you gain five
knots...
Cheers from Perth,
Chris (currently 601 XL special, 30% scratch)
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Old 701 New Windshield |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Paul Mulwitz <p.mulwitz@worldnet.att.net>
Plexiglass might be the best choice for this particular operation.
Lexan would be great if you had a way to "Hard Coat" it after
forming. This means applying a coat of clear polyurethane to protect
the Lexan from scratches. The Lexan has a very soft surface and
scratches very easily.
Paul
XL wings
do not archive
>Hi Mark and list,
>
>I borrowed a windshield idea from Scott Hunter that may work for you.
>
>I went to Home Depot and bought a 3 ft X 6 ft sheet of flexible acrylic
>called DuraPlex, .090 thick. I picked a hot day and cut it to size with a
>sabre saw, sanded the edges and strapped it into position with ratchet tie
>down straps. I used wood strips to even out the pressure of the straps
>along the edges of the doors. My wife and I used a hair dryer while
>bending, especially in the upper corners. This stuff is quite flexible but
>can still be broken. I ruined my first attempt because I didn't allow a
>large enough radius for the cutouts in the upper corners. The cost per
>sheet was about $46 and it makes a nice looking windshield. Home Depot
>also sells .090 thick Lexan that is even more flexible at a cost of about
>$60 for a 3 ft X4 ft piece. I don't know which is best. I've heard that
>Plexiglass is more forgiving of fuel spills than Lexan but the Lexan is
>tougher - practically indestructible. In any case you can make your
>windshield so that it will miss the filler for your header tank. Now if I
>could just talk you into the safety advantages of eliminating the
>header tank!!
>
>
>Dave, 701 with A80 Continental
>
>
---------------------------------------------
Paul Mulwitz
32013 NE Dial Road
Camas, WA 98607
---------------------------------------------
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: 601 HD cruise expectations |
Date: Thu, 6 Oct 2005 11:05:59 +0200 (\214rodkowoeuropejs...
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "BIANCO Tadeusz Forgacz" <info@bianco.pl>
>Get rid of the nosewheel and you gain five
knots...
>Cheers from Perth,
>
>Chris (currently 601 XL special, 30% scratch)
hmm, that sounds good for me - I decided to build taildragger. Engine will
be subaru conversion probably. I think EA82 will be enough. I would like to
have 160hp EJ22, but weight will make some problems.
Tadeusz Forgacz
CH601HD
EPKP
Message 5
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Edward Moody II" <dredmoody@cox.net>
You are of course correct but the good ideas seem to have been exhausted at
this point.
Ed
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Flat tires
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
>
> Maybe it is a "tempest" BUT having been on many lists for many years
> sometimes it takes a "tempest" to stir up someone on the sidelines that
> has
> "good" information on the subject. If it takes a "tempest" it's usually
> worth the wait. Do Not Archive & trimming posts are also good ideas.
> KABONG
>>
>> Wait a second here
> One last question..... hasn't this thread degenerated into a tempest
>> in a teapot?
>>
>> Ed Moody II
>
>
>
Message 6
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bob Gibfried" <rfg842@cox.net>
Started a gas tank using AD42S rivets with a Harbor Freight hand rivet
puller and ran into a problem. The shank wouldn't break off or I pulled the
pin completely through the rivet. Aside from two sore wrists, I'm about
half done.
Local tool shop wants $699.00 for a pneumatic rivet puller or has a
pneumatic pip rivet puller for $79.00 which is within my budget.
Can anyone recommend a reasonably priced rivet puller that will do the job
and not break the budget?
Bob, Wichita
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Rivit puller |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Aaron" <agustafson@chartermi.net>
Lots of people like the Harbor Freight pneumatic, I have a Huck
http://shop.store.yahoo.com/brandsplace/0246-hucak175a.html
which is very compact and light. I love it! I would do a price search
though, as I only paid $175 for mine from a Matco dealer and I have seen
them much cheaper.
Aaron do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Gibfried" <rfg842@cox.net>
Subject: Zenith-List: Rivit puller
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bob Gibfried" <rfg842@cox.net>
>
> Started a gas tank using AD42S rivets with a Harbor Freight hand rivet
> puller and ran into a problem.
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Rivit puller |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: N5SL <nfivesl@yahoo.com>
Hi Bob:
I'm not familiar with the AD42S rivets but before giving up on the Harbor Freight
rivet puller, and if you haven't tried this already, you might want to try
removing the chrome nose-piece and adjusting the puller. There are two parts
inside this nose piece with a lock nut behind them. You can screw these parts
in and out for adjustment.
Good luck,
Scott, Omaha
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bob Gibfried"
Started a gas tank using AD42S rivets with a Harbor Freight hand rivet
puller and ran into a problem. The shank wouldn't break off or I pulled the
pin completely through the rivet.
Bob, Wichita
---------------------------------
Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort.
Message 9
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| Subject: | Building Wing Spars |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Todd Osborne" <todd@toddtown.com>
I need to get something (but relatively cheap) going on my Zodiac and am
considering building the wing spars to keep me busy for a while. The last
set I made for an HD many years ago, I bucked the solid rivets because the
HD used a (approx) 1.5" spar cap. I am at work now and not sure exactly
what the XL uses, but I assume the spar is a similar design.
My question is this, and this is based solely on inexperience with
pneumatic sqeezers. If I chose to squeeze the rivets rather than buck
them, how do you do it while "reaching over" the spar cap? The ones I have
seen have such a small mount that I cannot imagine being able to do it
over the cap.
Or should I buck them, or drive them? And lastly, since I would only need
the squeezer for a day or so to set all the solid rivets, is there a place
where you can rent a tool like this?
Todd Osborne
Internet E-Mail: todd@toddtown.com
Web Site: www.toddtown.com
MSN (Windows) Messenger: todd@toddtown.com
AOL Instant Messenger: toddosborn@aol.com
Message 10
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
I tend to agree but in the "which primer" wars of the RV list with years of
comments & hundreds of opinions I did learn something new last week. Also I
was talking to a KR-2 builder about these tire options & he said he uses
riding lawnmower tires. Caught me completely off guard, got no details.
KABONG
Do Not Archive
---- Original Message -----
From: "Edward Moody II" <dredmoody@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Flat tires
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Edward Moody II" <dredmoody@cox.net>
>
> You are of course correct but the good ideas seem to have been exhausted
> at
> this point.
>
> Ed
>
> do not archive
>
>> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
>>
>> Maybe it is a "tempest" BUT having been on many lists for many years
>> sometimes it takes a "tempest" to stir up someone on the sidelines that
Message 11
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| Subject: | Building Wing Spars |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
My experience comes from building an HDS from kit (no solid rivets) and
an RV7a...Lots of solid rivets!
Firstly as I remember aren't the spar rivets 3/16th? These are pretty
large and using a manual squeezer would be extremely arduous. Pneumatic
is the way to go if your doing 3/16th...1/8th rivets can be manually
squeezed OK, but its still hard work.
Never seen a rental tool but I bet there are lots of RV builders around
that you may be able to borrow one from for a couple of days. You will
need what is called a "Longeron jaws"..These go over the spar cap no
problem.
The other way is to shoot and buck them...Once again you will need to
chat up the local RV builders. The rivet gun looks like an air chisel
but don't try using one as you will make an almighty mess.
When you get the gun and haevy bucking bar (heavier the better, as long
as you can get it on the tail of the rivet) practice a lot on
scrap...Not your spars...This is most definatly a skill and I look at my
early rivets and wince...Its ok for not critically structuaral areas but
you want your spars with top notch riveting....Be prepared to drive 50
to 100 rivets before you get it down.
Use blue masking tape on the top of the rivet this will cut down on the
smiles (boo boos!) considerably.
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Todd
Osborne
Subject: Zenith-List: Building Wing Spars
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Todd Osborne" <todd@toddtown.com>
I need to get something (but relatively cheap) going on my Zodiac and am
considering building the wing spars to keep me busy for a while. The
last set I made for an HD many years ago, I bucked the solid rivets
because the HD used a (approx) 1.5" spar cap. I am at work now and not
sure exactly what the XL uses, but I assume the spar is a similar
design.
My question is this, and this is based solely on inexperience with
pneumatic sqeezers. If I chose to squeeze the rivets rather than buck
them, how do you do it while "reaching over" the spar cap? The ones I
have seen have such a small mount that I cannot imagine being able to do
it over the cap.
Or should I buck them, or drive them? And lastly, since I would only
need the squeezer for a day or so to set all the solid rivets, is there
a place where you can rent a tool like this?
Todd Osborne
Internet E-Mail: todd@toddtown.com
Web Site: www.toddtown.com
MSN (Windows) Messenger: todd@toddtown.com AOL Instant Messenger:
toddosborn@aol.com
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Rivit puller |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
Have not a lot of experience with "pulled" rivets but the only time I was
able to pull the shank thru the rivet was either when the rivet was too
short (didn't extend thru far enough) or the drilled hole(s) were the wrong
size (too big). From the Zenith information book I thought the end of the
jaws were concave but the three "pullers" I have all have flush or flat
faced jaws. One is "aviation" but 30 or more years old. The "tank" rivets we
used had closed or blind ends and the first ones we tried were too short.
Metal/metal OK but on the Metal/ProSeal/metal they were too short. The
"knob" is a lot closer & thus shorter in our tank rivets. Was not able to
find AN42S's in my reference book (Aircraft Spruce catalog). KABONG Do
Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "N5SL" <nfivesl@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Rivit puller
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: N5SL <nfivesl@yahoo.com>
>
> Hi Bob:
>
> I'm not familiar with the AD42S rivets but before giving up on the Harbor
> Freight rivet puller, and if you haven't tried this already, you might
> want to try removing the chrome nose-piece and adjusting the puller.
> There are two parts inside this nose piece with a lock nut behind them.
> You can screw these parts in and out for adjustment.
>
> Good luck,
>
> Scott, Omaha
>
>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bob Gibfried"
>
> Started a gas tank using AD42S rivets with a Harbor Freight hand rivet
> puller and ran into a problem. The shank wouldn't break off or I pulled
> the
> pin completely through the rivet.
>
>
> Bob, Wichita
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Building Wing Spars |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Carlos Sa <carlosfsa@yahoo.com>
Hello, Todd
I used a squeezer for most of the HD outboard spars.
However, the squeezer I was using (borrowed, one of the simplest there is) wouldn't
fit the area
where the spar has doublers, much less the centre spar.
US Tools (I believe it was US Tools) has a squeezer with (repleaceable) heads that
would do the
trick. Still, such squeezer wouldn't fit the funny doubler on the centre spar,
so I looked around
for help, which materialized in the form of a fellow EAA member, who was building
an RV-7.
In three evenings we bucked close to 200 solid rivets - something I learnt is best
done with a
helper. One person alone could do it, but I wouldn't want to risk damaging the
spar - too much
time (never mind the money) invested.
Good luck
Carlos
CH601-HD, plans
--- Todd Osborne <todd@toddtown.com> wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Todd Osborne" <todd@toddtown.com>
>
> I need to get something (but relatively cheap) going on my Zodiac and am
> considering building the wing spars to keep me busy for a while. The last
> set I made for an HD many years ago, I bucked the solid rivets because the
> HD used a (approx) 1.5" spar cap. I am at work now and not sure exactly
> what the XL uses, but I assume the spar is a similar design.
>
> My question is this, and this is based solely on inexperience with
> pneumatic sqeezers. If I chose to squeeze the rivets rather than buck
> them, how do you do it while "reaching over" the spar cap? The ones I have
> seen have such a small mount that I cannot imagine being able to do it
> over the cap.
>
> Or should I buck them, or drive them? And lastly, since I would only need
> the squeezer for a day or so to set all the solid rivets, is there a place
> where you can rent a tool like this?
>
>
> Todd Osborne
> Internet E-Mail: todd@toddtown.com
> Web Site: www.toddtown.com
> MSN (Windows) Messenger: todd@toddtown.com
> AOL Instant Messenger: toddosborn@aol.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Find your next car at http://autos.yahoo.ca
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Rivit puller |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: <dredmoody@cox.net>
John,
I believe that Zenith supplies 601XL builders with a specially machined nosepiece
for drawing the Avex rivets. The rivet starts out looking like a countersunk
(flush) rivet. The concave machined nosepiece somehow curls the edges down
to have the head end up looking like a domed rivet. I haven't had the chance
to ask why they recommend doing the rivets that way but I guess that the result
is tighter and/or stronger.
I agree with your opinion that rivets don't pull through unless the rivet is too
short or the hole too big.
Ed Moody II
DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
> From: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
> Date: 2005/10/06 Thu PM 01:28:01 EDT
> To: <zenith-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Rivit puller
>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
>
> Have not a lot of experience with "pulled" rivets but the only time I was
> able to pull the shank thru the rivet was either when the rivet was too
> short (didn't extend thru far enough) or the drilled hole(s) were the wrong
> size (too big). From the Zenith information book I thought the end of the
> jaws were concave but the three "pullers" I have all have flush or flat
> faced jaws. One is "aviation" but 30 or more years old. The "tank" rivets we
> used had closed or blind ends and the first ones we tried were too short.
> Metal/metal OK but on the Metal/ProSeal/metal they were too short. The
> "knob" is a lot closer & thus shorter in our tank rivets. Was not able to
> find AN42S's in my reference book (Aircraft Spruce catalog). KABONG Do
> Not Archive
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "N5SL" <nfivesl@yahoo.com>
> To: <zenith-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Rivit puller
>
>
> > --> Zenith-List message posted by: N5SL <nfivesl@yahoo.com>
> >
> > Hi Bob:
> >
> > I'm not familiar with the AD42S rivets but before giving up on the Harbor
> > Freight rivet puller, and if you haven't tried this already, you might
> > want to try removing the chrome nose-piece and adjusting the puller.
> > There are two parts inside this nose piece with a lock nut behind them.
> > You can screw these parts in and out for adjustment.
> >
> > Good luck,
> >
> > Scott, Omaha
> >
> >
> > --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bob Gibfried"
> >
> > Started a gas tank using AD42S rivets with a Harbor Freight hand rivet
> > puller and ran into a problem. The shank wouldn't break off or I pulled
> > the
> > pin completely through the rivet.
> >
> >
> > Bob, Wichita
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Building Wing Spars |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "B Johnson" <bjohnson@satx.rr.com>
The Sonex guys use a big bolt and a hammer on one end, and a bucking bar
against under the spar on the workbench on the other end. I'm not to that
point on my Sonex, but if you know a Sonexbuilder who is.....
- Bruce
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Todd Osborne
Subject: Zenith-List: Building Wing Spars
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Todd Osborne" <todd@toddtown.com>
I need to get something (but relatively cheap) going on my Zodiac and am
considering building the wing spars to keep me busy for a while. The last
set I made for an HD many years ago, I bucked the solid rivets because the
HD used a (approx) 1.5" spar cap. I am at work now and not sure exactly
what the XL uses, but I assume the spar is a similar design.
My question is this, and this is based solely on inexperience with
pneumatic sqeezers. If I chose to squeeze the rivets rather than buck
them, how do you do it while "reaching over" the spar cap? The ones I have
seen have such a small mount that I cannot imagine being able to do it
over the cap.
Or should I buck them, or drive them? And lastly, since I would only need
the squeezer for a day or so to set all the solid rivets, is there a place
where you can rent a tool like this?
Todd Osborne
Internet E-Mail: todd@toddtown.com
Web Site: www.toddtown.com
MSN (Windows) Messenger: todd@toddtown.com
AOL Instant Messenger: toddosborn@aol.com
--
--
Message 16
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| Subject: | Building Wing Spars |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
Yes that can be made to work but here is a cutionary note...
The head of the rivet is domed and should therefore be driven with a
domed set (or nose piece). The other way to do it is with what is called
"back riveting"....U use a flat set and drive the tail down with the
head of the rivet on a piece of steel plate on the bench.
This is the easiest form of riveting BUT...it is normally only done for
countersunk rivets because the head is flat. If you do this with a round
head rivet you will mush it flat on the plate...I would not do this
personally as I think you will weaken the rivet.
There are a few instances where being able to back rivet domed head
rivets is very handy so I simply took a flat piece of steel and drilled
a small hole which held the domed set. Stuck the rivet head in the set
and pounded away on the tail.
Simple right?...:)
Well it did not work very well, for some reason it was extremly
difficult to not simply bend the tail of the rivet.
I tried it several times and while it came out OK in the end I would
want something a little better for the spars.
In theory you could use a hammer and a helper to hold the bucking bar to
standard "front" rivetting but it would be a whole lot easier and
quicker to borrow the right tool...I.e a rivetting gun..
Just my thoughts.
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of B Johnson
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Building Wing Spars
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "B Johnson" <bjohnson@satx.rr.com>
The Sonex guys use a big bolt and a hammer on one end, and a bucking bar
against under the spar on the workbench on the other end. I'm not to
that point on my Sonex, but if you know a Sonexbuilder who is.....
- Bruce
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Rivit puller |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: N5SL <nfivesl@yahoo.com>
Hellow Ed:
If you send ZAC your nose pieces from your rivet puller they will machine them
for you. I have three and one-half gatorade bottles full of stems pulled with
the two heads ZAC modified for me in 2003 and they are still fine. Concerning
the reasoning behind the concave head go here and read:
http://www.zenithair.com/kit-data/ht-86-12.html
There is much more information on the ZAC way of thinking here:
http://www.zenithair.com/kit-data/ht.html
Happy Building,
Scott Laughlin
601XL / Corvair
wiring and stuff
www.cooknwithgas.com
dredmoody@cox.net wrote:
--> Zenith-List message posted by:
John,
I believe that Zenith supplies 601XL builders with a specially machined nosepiece
for drawing the Avex rivets.
---------------------------------
Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort.
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Rivit puller |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: <dredmoody@cox.net>
Thanks Scott. I appreciate the info.
Ed
>
> From: N5SL <nfivesl@yahoo.com>
> Date: 2005/10/06 Thu PM 03:25:24 EDT
> To: zenith-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Re: Zenith-List: Rivit puller
>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: N5SL <nfivesl@yahoo.com>
>
> Hellow Ed:
>
> If you send ZAC your nose pieces from your rivet puller they will machine them
for you. I have three and one-half gatorade bottles full of stems pulled with
the two heads ZAC modified for me in 2003 and they are still fine. Concerning
the reasoning behind the concave head go here and read:
>
> http://www.zenithair.com/kit-data/ht-86-12.html
>
> There is much more information on the ZAC way of thinking here:
>
> http://www.zenithair.com/kit-data/ht.html
>
> Happy Building,
>
> Scott Laughlin
> 601XL / Corvair
> wiring and stuff
> www.cooknwithgas.com
>
>
> dredmoody@cox.net wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by:
>
> John,
>
> I believe that Zenith supplies 601XL builders with a specially machined nosepiece
for drawing the Avex rivets.
>
> ---------------------------------
> Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Radio Interference from GPS |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Clive Richards" <stephen@crichards.flyer.co.uk>
Hi list
We have found that when we switch on the Bendix/King Skymapll GPS
powered
from the aircraft we get excessive white noise on the ICOM radio with seperate
intercom
also powerd from the aircraft.
Also touching or moving the GPS antena cable changes the pitch of this noise.
We have not had time to investigate yet but have any of you had this problem.
We have some noise from the mags as expected but not excessive. Receving & transmitting
voice
is 5s. Following about 15 hrs run in Turn coordinator interference has disappeared.
Clive Richards for Ray Lasnier
G CBDG 601 HD Continental 0-200
Wating new float for carburettor ,final weight & balance check & Inspection for
clearence for flight.
do not archive
Message 20
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| Subject: | Blue-skying: Anyone know of notebook PC-based instruments? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: deglass1@aol.com
While considering the options for glass instruments, I wondered if
anyone is developing notebook or tablet PC-based instruments. With the
center mounted, y-yoke of the Zodiac, there's room in front of the
pilot to mount an LCD monitor or laptop. Interfacing the PC to a
sensor package, software to display it in windows that look like
individual instruments, engine management and flight instruments?
food for thought?
David Glass
Zodiac XL
Tail feathers done, fuse 80%
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Building Wing Spars |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "William J. Naumuk" <billn@velocity.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Building Wing Spars
The builder's manual recommends using a flat dolly while driving the spar
rivets, and the picture of a finished rivet clearly shows a flat spot on the
head. You are only required to stay within the OD and height tolerances for
the developed end. When all else fails, read the instructions.
Bill
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Rivit puller |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Gary Gower <ggower_99@yahoo.com>
I think the problem is that the size of the drill you are using is to big... When
this happens, the rivet material will not "squeze" the head of the shank off,
leting it pass free..
If this is the problem, same will happen with the pneumatic riveter.
Just a hint without looking at the tank or rivets...
Saludos
Gary Gower.
Bob Gibfried <rfg842@cox.net> wrote:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bob Gibfried"
Started a gas tank using AD42S rivets with a Harbor Freight hand rivet
puller and ran into a problem. The shank wouldn't break off or I pulled the
pin completely through the rivet. Aside from two sore wrists, I'm about
half done.
Local tool shop wants $699.00 for a pneumatic rivet puller or has a
pneumatic pip rivet puller for $79.00 which is within my budget.
Can anyone recommend a reasonably priced rivet puller that will do the job
and not break the budget?
Bob, Wichita
---------------------------------
Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort.
Message 23
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| Subject: | Building Wing Spars |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
Your talking about the developed or shop head...Not the factory round
head. I was saying that I would not back rivet which is to say I would
not put the factory (round head) on the flat plate and back rivet the
tail.
When all else fails......:)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of William J.
Naumuk
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Building Wing Spars
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "William J. Naumuk"
--> <billn@velocity.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Building Wing Spars
The builder's manual recommends using a flat dolly while driving the
spar rivets, and the picture of a finished rivet clearly shows a flat
spot on the head. You are only required to stay within the OD and height
tolerances for the developed end. When all else fails, read the
instructions.
Bill
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Blue-skying: Anyone know of notebook PC-based |
instruments?
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Stephen R. Look" <slook@mchsi.com> instruments?
See: http://www.myglasscockpit.com/
Kinda neat....
Steve
At 05:51 PM 10/6/2005, you wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: deglass1@aol.com
>
>While considering the options for glass instruments, I wondered if
>anyone is developing notebook or tablet PC-based instruments.
Steve Look
Monticello, IL
www.ilrt66.com
"Dogs have owners, Cats have staff"
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Blue-skying: Anyone know of notebook PC-based instrum |
ents?
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "mikeandlaurie3@netzero.net" <mikeandlaurie3@netzero.net>
check Copperstate Web site (www.copperstate.org?). The author section there shows a book regarding what you are describing.
Mike Clark
Prescott Valley, AZ, CH601XL
check Copperstate Web site (www.copperstate.org?). The author section there shows a book regarding what you are describing.
Mike Clark
Prescott Valley, AZ, CH601XL
Message 26
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| Subject: | Building Wing Spars |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Zodie Rocket" <zodierocket@hsfx.ca>
For $25.00 and about 2 hours work you can have you own Super duty Spar
Rivet smasher. A few people have built this on the list and everyone has
been happy with the results.
http://www.ch601.org/tools/dimpler/dimpler.htm
Enjoy making the spars is a daunting process.
Mark Townsend Alma, Ontario
Zodiac 601XL , Osprey 2 serial # 751
President: Kitchener/Waterloo RAA Chapter
www.ch601.org / www.ch701.com / www.Osprey2.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of B Johnson
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Building Wing Spars
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "B Johnson" <bjohnson@satx.rr.com>
The Sonex guys use a big bolt and a hammer on one end, and a bucking bar
against under the spar on the workbench on the other end. I'm not to
that
point on my Sonex, but if you know a Sonexbuilder who is.....
- Bruce
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Todd
Osborne
Subject: Zenith-List: Building Wing Spars
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Todd Osborne" <todd@toddtown.com>
I need to get something (but relatively cheap) going on my Zodiac and am
considering building the wing spars to keep me busy for a while. The
last
set I made for an HD many years ago, I bucked the solid rivets because
the
HD used a (approx) 1.5" spar cap. I am at work now and not sure exactly
what the XL uses, but I assume the spar is a similar design.
My question is this, and this is based solely on inexperience with
pneumatic sqeezers. If I chose to squeeze the rivets rather than buck
them, how do you do it while "reaching over" the spar cap? The ones I
have
seen have such a small mount that I cannot imagine being able to do it
over the cap.
Or should I buck them, or drive them? And lastly, since I would only
need
the squeezer for a day or so to set all the solid rivets, is there a
place
where you can rent a tool like this?
Todd Osborne
Internet E-Mail: todd@toddtown.com
Web Site: www.toddtown.com
MSN (Windows) Messenger: todd@toddtown.com
AOL Instant Messenger: toddosborn@aol.com
--
--
--
10/5/2005
--
10/5/2005
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Building Wing Spars |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Carlos Sa <carlosfsa@yahoo.com>
I'm sorry, Bill, but that's cheating... :o)
do not archive
--- "William J. Naumuk" <billn@velocity.net> wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "William J. Naumuk" <billn@velocity.net>
...
> When all else fails, read the instructions.
>
> Bill
Find your next car at http://autos.yahoo.ca
Message 28
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| Subject: | Glass instruments on computer |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: scotty scotty <scotty245@yahoo.com>
David,
I sent you an email to check out. My brother built a system like you mentioned
for the 701.
---------------------------------
Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort.
Message 29
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| Subject: | Projects or completions in SC? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Kevin Thorp <kevin@medamation.com>
Are there any projects or completions of the 601 XL (or any of the Zenith line)
within 100-200 miles of Charleston, SC?
I checked the Zenith web site, but was told this also might be a good source.
thanks!
Kevin Thorp
Charleston, SC
(just got the info pack & DVD)
do not archive
Message 30
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|
Received-SPF: none (mgr1.xmission.com: 166.70.39.121 is neither permitted nor denied
by domain of craigandjean.com) client-ip=166.70.39.121; envelope-from=craig@craigandjean.com;
helo=TheTCCraig;
| Subject: | Blue-skying: Anyone know of notebook PC-based instruments? |
T_TM2_M_HEADER_IN_MSG autolearn=disabled version=3.0.3
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Craig Payne" <craig@craigandjean.com>
More on the "car computers" he mentions on his site can be found at
http://www.mp3car.com/. I just bought a 7" VGA monitor from there but *not*
for use in direct sunlight. For my instrument panel I'm sticking with
monochrome LCDs. When I finally get around to putting up a web site it will
be entitled "My airplane runs DOS".
-- Craig
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stephen R. Look
instruments?
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Blue-skying: Anyone know of notebook PC-based
instruments?
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Stephen R. Look" <slook@mchsi.com>
instruments?
See: http://www.myglasscockpit.com/
Kinda neat....
Steve
At 05:51 PM 10/6/2005, you wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: deglass1@aol.com
>
>While considering the options for glass instruments, I wondered if
>anyone is developing notebook or tablet PC-based instruments.
Steve Look
Monticello, IL
www.ilrt66.com
"Dogs have owners, Cats have staff"
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: A80 A-65 Continental Question (From Matronics list member) |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Dave and Pam Fisher <dpfisher@scottsbluff.net>
<At 08:29 AM 10/6/2005, you wrote:
>Hope you don't mind a question. I am considering a small continental as
>you did. Are there any "got-ya's" or items that aren't obvious when
>considering this engine on a 701? What makes a A-65 or C-65 a A-80? Or
>a C-75?. Parts availability? Is there a engine guru for these small
>continentals ? Engine mount....how do I get one?
>
>Thanks in advance for your time.......>
Hi Phillip,
I'll post this to the Zenith list as you have good questions of general
interest and I suspect there are list members who know more than I
do. (Jump right in guys!)
1, " got-ya's...The biggest problem is that Zenith doesn't really support
the Continental engine so you're more or less on your own for the
installation. They will sell you a nose bowl and furnish an engine mount
drawing but that's it. I didn't use their mount design as I thought a
Piper Cub style mount looked stronger and I wanted to position the engine
as close as possible to the firewall for balance reasons. It took me about
two weeks to make my own mount. I'm sure someone who knew what they were
doing could have done it much quicker.
2. engine differences: The A65-8, A75-8, and A80-8 were the earliest
design. Pretend the "A" stands for "absent accessaries". These engines
had no provision on the back end for starter, generator or oil filter. The
three engines are very similar and by making minor changes in pistons,
valves, oil holes in the rod caps and operating speeds you can change from
one to the other. The - 8 tells you whether you need mags that turn
clockwise or counter clockwise. The bare engine weight is 170 lbs. (flying
weight? something under 200 lbs)
The next design was the "C" series,(C75, C85, and C90). I know less about
these as they are not what I've got but in general they had larger
cylinders with more displacement and other refinements. They can be
configured as either a - 8 or - 12 (mag rotation). The - 8 configuration
weighs less than the - 12, probably because the - 12 has provisions on the
accessory case to hang on all the goodies.
The latest design was the 0200. Again more refinements but very similar to
the "C" series. The guy at the next bench at the college where I rebuilt
my engine had an 0200 apart. The obvious differences from my engine were:
larger cylinders, valves with much larger stems, ( sodium cooled I think),
a different cam, a different oil pump, an accessory case with all the
goodies, an oil filter, an oil cooler and more weight. Again,I know very
little about the 0200. (any corrections or additions, Archie or anyone else?)
3. parts availability and tech advice: Very good . Check out the adds in
Trade-a-Plane. The parts guys either know the answers or know who to
ask. As for a "guru", I suspect Archie on this list knows more than the
rest of us put together.
With all that said, I think these old Continentals are heavier than the
Rotaxes but very simple and reliable and are a good choice for the 701 if
you keep every thing else light up front.
Dave, 701 with A80-8 Continental, 90% done and holding!
Message 32
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| Subject: | Old 701 New Windshield |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Dave and Pam Fisher <dpfisher@scottsbluff.net>
< posted by: Steve Hulland <marinegunner@gmail.com>
Dave,
Can you describe how you ran the fuel lines after eliminating the header
tank?>
Hi Steve and list,
I've not yet plumbed my fuel system and would very much like to hear how
other 701s with Continentals are being done. The Continentals are
different from other engines in that they are designed to be gravity fed
and require no fuel pump. I like the simple Cessna approach: plumbed
direct from the wing tanks to a cutoff valve, then to the gascolater (with
filter screen), then to the carburetor.
Piper Super Cubs also had a pint or quart sized "burp" tank mounted high on
the firewall with vent lines back to the wing tanks. A friend suggested
that the "burp" tank would give the Cub a few minutes of fuel on takeoff
while rapid acceleration and the nose high position of the plane might
interrupt fuel flow from the wings. I'm wondering if the Cub approach
might be a good idea for the 701 which is also capable of a very high angle
of attack.
As for actual routing, I think the important thing is to avoid any humps in
the fuel system which might trap air and restrict the flow. For instance,
it's OK to go from the wing tanks to behind the seat to the bottom of the
fuselage (drain) and then progress steadily up hill to the "burp" tank
which is vented back to the top of wing tanks and then go down from the
bottom of the "burp" tank to a cutoff valve and then to the gascolater and
finally to the carb. In the Cessna installation you would just progress
steadily uphill from the bottom of the fuselage to the carb. I think it's
also important in a gravity fed system to use large fuel lines,(3/8 in.),
and avoid restrictions: ( I don't plan to use a filter, just the screen in
the gascolater).
In your case, Steve, If you've got the old small wing tanks with no outlet
screen, I think you are wise to add tanks with screens so you've got at
least some fuel if the original tank outlets get plugged.
Dave, 701 with A80-8 Continental
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: Glass instruments on computer |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: NYTerminat@aol.com
I --> Zenith-List message posted by: scotty scotty <scotty245@yahoo.com>
David,
I sent you an email to check out. My brother built a system like you
mentioned for the
701.
I am building a 701 and would be interested in the system that your brother
installed.
Bob Spudis
CH701/912S painting wings and "stuff"
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