Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:02 AM - Re: Solvent (Robert Schoenberger)
2. 07:59 AM - Fuel Tank Sealer - Don't use sealer or slosh !! (Condon, Philip M.)
3. 08:37 AM - Up on XL Project for sale (Geronimo423@aol.com)
4. 09:57 AM - Re: N414PZ Landing incident (JAPhillipsGA@aol.com)
5. 11:19 AM - Matco followup on N414PZ landing incident ()
6. 11:30 AM - Matco support and N414PZ landing incident ()
7. 11:49 AM - Re: N414PZ Landing incident (ron dewees)
8. 01:35 PM - First Flight of VH-JNL (John Livsey)
9. 01:58 PM - Fuel system parts / questions (Carlos Sa)
10. 02:03 PM - First Flight of VH-JNL (Beckman, Rick)
11. 02:04 PM - Re: First Flight of VH-JNL (George Harris)
12. 02:56 PM - Re: First Flight of VH-JNL (Carlos Sa)
13. 02:57 PM - Re: Fuel system parts / questions (JOHN STARN)
14. 03:43 PM - Re: N414PZ Landing incident (Paul Mulwitz)
15. 03:45 PM - Re: Fuel system parts / questions (Carlos Sa)
16. 04:32 PM - Re: First Flight of VH-JNL (Larry McFarland)
17. 04:42 PM - Re: Fuel system parts / questions (William J. Naumuk)
18. 04:53 PM - Range of Bungee replacement questions (Dr. Perry Morrison)
19. 04:59 PM - Re: Fuel system parts / questions (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
20. 05:17 PM - Re: Fuel system parts / questions (Dave Austin)
21. 05:31 PM - Re: Fuel system parts / questions (Larry McFarland)
22. 06:09 PM - Re: Fuel system parts / questions (Carlos Sa)
23. 06:09 PM - Re: Range of Bungee replacement questions (Larry McFarland)
24. 06:33 PM - Re: Fuel system parts / questions (William J. Naumuk)
25. 07:10 PM - Re: Cortec (Thomas Makibbin)
26. 07:23 PM - Re: N414PZ Landing incident (ron dewees)
27. 07:35 PM - Re: Cortec (Gdascomb@aol.com)
28. 08:27 PM - Re: First Flight of VH-JNL (Zodie Rocket)
29. 08:29 PM - 701 aileron trim (Tebenkof@aol.com)
30. 10:15 PM - Re: Fuel system parts / questions (Graham Kirby)
Message 1
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Robert Schoenberger" <hrs1@frontiernet.net>
95% denatured alcohol works fine. Robert Schoenberger 701
----- Original Message -----
From: "William J. Naumuk" <billn@velocity.net>
Subject: Zenith-List: Solvent
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "William J. Naumuk"
> <billn@velocity.net>
>
> All-
> Neither lighter fluid nor paint thinner seems to work getting off
> Sharpie Permanent ink. Any suggestions?
> Bill
>
>
>
Message 2
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Subject: | Fuel Tank Sealer - Don't use sealer or slosh !! |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Condon, Philip M." <pcondon@mitre.org>
Having built 2 RV's and helped other builders build and seal the fuel
tanks, I can speak from some experience. The Vans fuel tanks are
traditional rib and sheet metal tanks with rivets. Pro Seal is the
preferred sealing and used when assembling, goop to seal the tanks.
Mooney uses this product as well as the airlines to seal the fuel
tanks, pressure bulkheads and windows in the big stuff. Vans sells the
stuff as well as other vendors. Repairing a existing tank is simple.
Fly cut a 4 inch hole in the rear of the tank, clean the seam lines,
scuff up with a scotchbrite, clean with acetone, an paint the seam
line. ProSeal the access hole closed and let sit for a day or so.
Super glue, the real thin kind, can be used to seep into a weeping
rivet. Shop air in needed to clean and dry the rivet head or dome area
after cleaning the area. I have had success with this method. Learned
about from the Mooney folks who have their share of weeping fuel tanks.
Message 3
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Subject: | Up on XL Project for sale |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Geronimo423@aol.com
List Members:
My 601 XL project has been sold. Thanks for all your interest.
Roger
Do not archive
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: N414PZ Landing incident |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: JAPhillipsGA@aol.com
Ron, sorry to hear you got more trouble. What happened to your brakes ? Does
the HDS have the same wheel/brake lashup as the XL ? I' m distressed that my
brake disc s rattle and groan and bop all along on taxi. Drives me nuts, but
can't see anything I can do to stop the noise as the discs are supposed to
float. If I can help you in any way call me, I have a bunch of extra alum skin
you
can use for patch (if it's the correct thickness ?). Best regards, Bill
Message 5
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Subject: | Matco followup on N414PZ landing incident |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: <paulhartl@cox.net>
As an initial follow-up to my Saturday posting , "N414PZ landing incident" ...
I just talked to George Happ at Matco, who says there never was a roller bearing
made for their wheels with a 5/8" axel. Apparently, the drawings I received
with my Matco wheels (from Zenith) were in error - they should have depicted
ball bearings, not roller bearings. Thus ALL 5/8" axel Matco wheels employ ball
bearings.
George seems very interested in getting to the bottom of this problem, so I do
regret my "crappy" comment on the quality of Matco - I was angry that a part that
should last years had disintegrated after only 34 landings. George is addressing
this problem, but has already had a call from another Zenith owner this
morning, based on the mis-information I had on these bearings. Please don't call
him until he has a chance to resolve what's going on here. I will report
back with the progress on my situation.
-Paul
Paul Hartl, N414PZ
Jab3300, 23 hrs
Message 6
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Subject: | Matco support and N414PZ landing incident |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: <paulhartl@cox.net>
I Hope I'm not sending this twice - please forgive me if I did.....
As an initial follow-up to my Saturday posting , "N414PZ landing incident" ...
I just talked to George Happ at Matco, who says there never was a roller bearing
made for their wheels with a 5/8" axel. Apparently, the drawings I received
with my Matco wheels (from Zenith) were in error - they should have
depicted ball bearings, not roller bearings. Thus ALL 5/8" axel Matco wheels employ
ball bearings.
George seems very interested in getting to the bottom of this problem, so I do
regret my "crappy" comment on the quality of Matco - I was angry that a part that
should last years had disintegrated after only 34 landings. George is
addressing this problem, but has already had a call from another Zenith owner this
morning, based on the mis-information I had on these bearings. Please don't
call him until he has a chance to resolve what's going on here. I will report
back with the progress on my situation.
-Paul
Paul Hartl, N414PZ
CH601HDS, Jab 3300, 23 hrs
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: N414PZ Landing incident |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: ron dewees <rdewees@mindspring.com>
Hi Bill,
Thanks so much for the condolences. As for the brakes, on the HDS there
isn't a return spring or cable system to keep the pedals from falling
forward when not in use. I think the hydraulic fluid leaked out or let
air in the bleed hole in the top of the master cylinder that's attached
to the toe brakes. THe brakes just lost almost all effectiveness and I
made a hot landing that should have stopped about 50 feet short of the
fence at the end of the runway. Instead I stopped 5 feet on the OTHER
side of the fence. It's mostly cosmetic except that a piece of wire
grabbed the fuel strainer of the left wing tank and pulled the fitting
out and thru the wing skin. I went to ACS on Saturday and bought a 4X8
sheet of .025 6061 T3 for $46 bucks and have already cut and temporarily
mounted the new leading edge skin. I am waithing on getting a welding
patch on the tank, and shopping for a new prop, which I was going to get
anyway. Truly ego-brusing, but not earth shaking. S#$_)(#$_ happens
and I am the PIC so should have made a better landing or not counted on
the brakes to work.
How is your bird flying? Did you put the canadian CHT monitor in?
what sort of temps are you seeing and how many hours are left off Phase I?
Hang in there!
Ron
JAPhillipsGA@aol.com wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: JAPhillipsGA@aol.com
>
>Ron, sorry to hear you got more trouble. What happened to your brakes ? Does
>the HDS have the same wheel/brake lashup as the XL ? I' m distressed that my
>brake disc s rattle and groan and bop all along on taxi. Drives me nuts, but
>can't see anything I can do to stop the noise as the discs are supposed to
>float. If I can help you in any way call me, I have a bunch of extra alum skin
you
>can use for patch (if it's the correct thickness ?). Best regards, Bill
>
>
>
>
Message 8
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Subject: | First Flight of VH-JNL |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: John Livsey <jlivsey@bigpond.com>
All,
Although a avid reader of the list I don't post to many items. However
its worth reporting that after seven years of effort VH-JNL took to the
sunny skies on Saturday 15th October.
Some snaps are on my website at
http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/jlivsey/testflying1.html or get to the
full story of construction at http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/jlivsey
regards john livsey
Message 9
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Subject: | Fuel system parts / questions |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Carlos Sa <carlosfsa@yahoo.com>
Hello, listers
I just received a shipment of parts from AS&S.
I am a bit concerned by the way they fit: it's hard to screw the strainer and the
valve onto the
flanges (see part numbers below). I can turn them once or twice, but after that
it'll take some
"convincing" to get additional turns.
Did I miss something when ordering these parts, or are they supposed to be a tight
fit?
I'd appreciate any and all input.
05-01870 CURTIS DRAIN VALVES CCA-1600
05-17700 FINGER STRAINERS
AN867-2 ALUM. WELDING FLANGES AN867-2
AN867-3 ALUM. WELDING FLANGES AN867-3
Carlos
CH601-HD, plans
Find your next car at http://autos.yahoo.ca
Message 10
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Subject: | First Flight of VH-JNL |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Beckman, Rick" <Rick.Beckman@atk.com>
Although a avid reader of the list I don't post to many items. However
its worth reporting that after seven years of effort VH-JNL took to the
sunny skies on Saturday 15th October.
regards john livsey
Hey John!!!! Congratulations!!!! Must be an elating feeling!!
Good job!!
Rick Beckman
Do Not Archive!!
_-
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: First Flight of VH-JNL |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "George Harris" <george@customcals.com>
Congratulations! Well done. That is a good looking paint scheme. I like
the bold bright yellow. One of the better looking HDSs IMO.
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Livsey" <jlivsey@bigpond.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: First Flight of VH-JNL
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: John Livsey <jlivsey@bigpond.com>
>
> All,
>
> Although a avid reader of the list I don't post to many items. However
> its worth reporting that after seven years of effort VH-JNL took to the
> sunny skies on Saturday 15th October.
>
> Some snaps are on my website at
> http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/jlivsey/testflying1.html or get to the
> full story of construction at http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/jlivsey
>
> regards john livsey
>
>
> --
>
>
--
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: First Flight of VH-JNL |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Carlos Sa <carlosfsa@yahoo.com>
Congratulations, John
I have followed your project over the years on your web site.
Very nice work!
I do have a question: what are the two windshield spray switches for??
Carlos
CH601-HD, plans
do not archive
--- John Livsey <jlivsey@bigpond.com> wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: John Livsey <jlivsey@bigpond.com>
>
> All,
>
> Although a avid reader of the list I don't post to many items. However
> its worth reporting that after seven years of effort VH-JNL took to the
> sunny skies on Saturday 15th October.
>
> Some snaps are on my website at
> http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/jlivsey/testflying1.html or get to the
> full story of construction at http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/jlivsey
>
> regards john livsey
Find your next car at http://autos.yahoo.ca
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: Fuel system parts / questions |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
Sounds like you "could" be trying to screw male "tube threads" into a "pipe
thread" fitting. They will start but not tighten up. Tube threads are those
that are used to connect to "tubing" with a feral & nut. Tube threads are
straight, no taper. Pipe threads are tapered on both male & female ends. The
threads on a tube fitting will "start" 1 or 2 revolutions but as soon as the
female "Pipe" threads begin to taper it stops cold. Overtightened or forced
methods will only damage both items. You can check for taper by sight &
feel. Using your finger tips lightly grip the item end of the threads & keep
the thumb on one side, Keep you finger/thumb in a locked condition. Slide
toward the end, IF you get a gap, its tapered. Hope this helps. I know ACS
(AirCraft Spruce) what is AS&S ? JACK Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Carlos Sa" <carlosfsa@yahoo.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: Fuel system parts / questions
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Carlos Sa <carlosfsa@yahoo.com>
>
> Hello, listers
>
> I just received a shipment of parts from AS&S.
>
> I am a bit concerned by the way they fit: it's hard to screw the strainer
> and the valve onto the
> flanges (see part numbers below). I can turn them once or twice, but after
> that it'll take some
> "convincing" to get additional turns.
> Did I miss something when ordering these parts, or are they supposed to be
> a tight fit?
>
> I'd appreciate any and all input.
>
> 05-01870 CURTIS DRAIN VALVES CCA-1600
> 05-17700 FINGER STRAINERS
> AN867-2 ALUM. WELDING FLANGES AN867-2
> AN867-3 ALUM. WELDING FLANGES AN867-3
>
>
> Carlos
> CH601-HD, plans
Message 14
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Subject: | Re: N414PZ Landing incident |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Paul Mulwitz <p.mulwitz@worldnet.att.net>
Hi Ron,
Sorry, I didn't notice it was you who had a little landing
problem. Oh well, at least you walked away from it.
I noticed your comment on acquiring some 6061 T3 to repair your
wing. Is this a satisfactory substitute for 6061 T6 ? The T6
treatment is certainly the normal one for aircraft use.
Good luck,
Paul
At 11:48 AM 10/17/2005, you wrote:
> I went to ACS on Saturday and bought a 4X8
>sheet of .025 6061 T3
---------------------------------------------
Paul Mulwitz
32013 NE Dial Road
Camas, WA 98607
---------------------------------------------
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: Fuel system parts / questions |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Carlos Sa <carlosfsa@yahoo.com>
John and Bill
I believe your theory is correct:
The drain valve can only be inserted and turned a couple of times on one side of
the flange - but
not on the opposite. This proves the *flange* has pipe threads.
However, the valve is *also* pipe threaded: it is fairly visible with the naked
eye, and I can
measure it with my calipers.
But I can only turn it some 2-3 times. Is this the way it works??
I have the same situation with the screen.
Note that in the catalog (pages 162 and 163), only the screen is labeled NPT, not
the other
parts...
Any suggestions?
(PS: AS&S - "Aircraft Spruce & Specialty Co.")
Carlos
--- JOHN STARN <jhstarn@verizon.net> wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
>
> Sounds like you "could" be trying to screw male "tube threads" into a "pipe
> thread" fitting. They will start but not tighten up. Tube threads are those
> that are used to connect to "tubing" with a feral & nut. Tube threads are
> straight, no taper. Pipe threads are tapered on both male & female ends. The
> threads on a tube fitting will "start" 1 or 2 revolutions but as soon as the
> female "Pipe" threads begin to taper it stops cold. Overtightened or forced
> methods will only damage both items. You can check for taper by sight &
> feel. Using your finger tips lightly grip the item end of the threads & keep
> the thumb on one side, Keep you finger/thumb in a locked condition. Slide
> toward the end, IF you get a gap, its tapered. Hope this helps. I know ACS
> (AirCraft Spruce) what is AS&S ? JACK Do Not Archive
>
> ----- Original Message -----
...
> > 05-01870 CURTIS DRAIN VALVES CCA-1600
> > 05-17700 FINGER STRAINERS
> > AN867-2 ALUM. WELDING FLANGES AN867-2
> > AN867-3 ALUM. WELDING FLANGES AN867-3
Find your next car at http://autos.yahoo.ca
Message 16
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Subject: | Re: First Flight of VH-JNL |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Larry McFarland <larrymc@qconline.com>
Congratulations John! You've got a really beautiful plane and the
scenery to fly over is awesome.
Yours is one of the nicest painted HDSs seen in a while. Well done. do
fly safe.........:-)
Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
do not archive
John Livsey wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: John Livsey <jlivsey@bigpond.com>
>
>All,
>
>Although a avid reader of the list I don't post to many items. However
>its worth reporting that after seven years of effort VH-JNL took to the
>sunny skies on Saturday 15th October.
>
>Some snaps are on my website at
>http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/jlivsey/testflying1.html or get to the
>full story of construction at http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/jlivsey
>
>regards john livsey
>
>
>
>
Message 17
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Subject: | Re: Fuel system parts / questions |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "William J. Naumuk" <billn@velocity.net>
Carlos-
Seems that you have NPT for the parts that need them, and straight
threads for the lines. Check the Zenith prints before you go screwing
anything down tight, but it makes sense. You DONT want parts "Permanently"
attached to the tank to come apart, but you want to be able to get the lines
off.
In theory, the tighter you assemble NPT parts, the better the seal.
Sometimes, teflon tape is recommended to improve the seal.
This is one of those times you want to do it right the first time. At
best, a fuel leak can make a mess out of your paint job.
Bill
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Carlos Sa" <carlosfsa@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Fuel system parts / questions
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Carlos Sa <carlosfsa@yahoo.com>
>
> John and Bill
>
> I believe your theory is correct:
> The drain valve can only be inserted and turned a couple of times on one
side of the flange - but
> not on the opposite. This proves the *flange* has pipe threads.
> However, the valve is *also* pipe threaded: it is fairly visible with the
naked eye, and I can
> measure it with my calipers.
> But I can only turn it some 2-3 times. Is this the way it works??
>
> I have the same situation with the screen.
> Note that in the catalog (pages 162 and 163), only the screen is labeled
NPT, not the other
> parts...
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> (PS: AS&S - "Aircraft Spruce & Specialty Co.")
>
> Carlos
>
> --- JOHN STARN <jhstarn@verizon.net> wrote:
>
> > --> Zenith-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
> >
> > Sounds like you "could" be trying to screw male "tube threads" into a
"pipe
> > thread" fitting. They will start but not tighten up. Tube threads are
those
> > that are used to connect to "tubing" with a feral & nut. Tube threads
are
> > straight, no taper. Pipe threads are tapered on both male & female ends.
The
> > threads on a tube fitting will "start" 1 or 2 revolutions but as soon as
the
> > female "Pipe" threads begin to taper it stops cold. Overtightened or
forced
> > methods will only damage both items. You can check for taper by sight &
> > feel. Using your finger tips lightly grip the item end of the threads &
keep
> > the thumb on one side, Keep you finger/thumb in a locked condition.
Slide
> > toward the end, IF you get a gap, its tapered. Hope this helps. I know
ACS
> > (AirCraft Spruce) what is AS&S ? JACK Do Not Archive
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> ...
> > > 05-01870 CURTIS DRAIN VALVES CCA-1600
> > > 05-17700 FINGER STRAINERS
> > > AN867-2 ALUM. WELDING FLANGES AN867-2
> > > AN867-3 ALUM. WELDING FLANGES AN867-3
>
>
> Find your next car at http://autos.yahoo.ca
>
>
Message 18
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Subject: | Range of Bungee replacement questions |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dr. Perry Morrison" <perrymorrison@yahoo.com>
Time to replace the bungees on my 601HD all round. I've searched the archives but
still have some issues:
1. are the bungees ALL 1080s or 1080HD? I have a 912 installation and i'm assuming
that
the 1080s are enough for the lighter weight. Also, the nose gear bungee rubs a
little on
the U channel and I'm not keen on a fatter one going in there.
2. gear boxes. This sounds a nightmare. Some people have added rivnuts/nutplates
to replace
the nuts. Access to them for tightening after bungee installation seems a real
problem. i note one poster has drilled a 5/8" hole to allow better access and
a different assembly procedure. if using rivnuts i assume these would have to
be lockwired together.
3. lubrication of bungee. is there anything that could be used here without deteriorating
it
and/or the cotton that wraps it? is there any point?
4. I may as well add UHMP bearings on the outer lower bearing and maybe the slides.
wondered if the top bearing deserved one on the inside? What amount of wear do
people
find on this top surface? I'm at the 200hr mark.
thanks for any advice
Perry Morrison
__________________________
Dr. Perry Morrison
Morrison Associates Pty Ltd
0408892638
perrymorrison@yahoo.com
__________________________
Message 19
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Subject: | Fuel system parts / questions |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
NA ARR!...Not teflon tape!...You can use it as I did, but I should
really not have as I almost dare not undo a threaded pipe joint.
Tape will make shards that could fall into the fuel line and cause
blockage of filters and maybe even the hastening of thawing of the
World's Ice caps!
A much better way is to go down to the local hardware store and get pipe
dope with teflon...Dirt cheap and works very well and the shards of tape
can't happen.
Frank
Sometimes, teflon tape is recommended to improve the seal.
Message 20
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Subject: | Re: Fuel system parts / questions |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave Austin" <daveaustin2@sprint.ca>
Carlos,
Had the same problem in some recent fittings I installed. I bought an NPT
tap and opened out the fittings a bit so that I had more than four turns on
all the joints.
Dave Austin 601HDS - 912, Spitfire Mk VIII
Message 21
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Subject: | Re: Fuel system parts / questions |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Larry McFarland <larrymc@qconline.com>
John and Bill,
Do rethink using Teflon tape as it will shread on sharp threads when
tightened and will too often provide
an unwelcome stoppage where fuel is concerned. There is a Permatex
thread sealant that is white and has a
teflon base, but gets harder and seals really well. I found that
Aircraft Gasket and Thread Sealer didn't
work at all when I wet my wing tanks. The NPT threads all seeped
continuously until I went with Permatex
thread sealant.
Larry McFarland
do not archive
William J. Naumuk wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "William J. Naumuk" <billn@velocity.net>
>
>Carlos-
> Seems that you have NPT for the parts that need them, and straight
>threads for the lines. Check the Zenith prints before you go screwing
>anything down tight, but it makes sense. You DONT want parts "Permanently"
>attached to the tank to come apart, but you want to be able to get the lines
>off.
> In theory, the tighter you assemble NPT parts, the better the seal.
>Sometimes, teflon tape is recommended to improve the seal.
> This is one of those times you want to do it right the first time. At
>best, a fuel leak can make a mess out of your paint job.
>
>
>
Message 22
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Subject: | Re: Fuel system parts / questions |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Carlos Sa <carlosfsa@yahoo.com>
Lemme get this straight:
Looks like the flanges, the valves and the finger screen are all NPT - no tube
threads.
The AS&S catalog agrees - sometimes they say NPT (drain valves) and sometimes they
say male/female
pipe thread.
The question now boils down to: (1) is this what I need? (there are no specifics
in the HD(S)
plans) and (2) are these fittings supposed to be this tight? (I really dislike
having to argue
with pipes and fittings and stuff...)
Dave's idea (use an NPT tap to open out the fittings) seems interesting...?
Carlos
(Learning at each and every step of the way)
do not archive
--- "William J. Naumuk" <billn@velocity.net> wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "William J. Naumuk" <billn@velocity.net>
>
> Carlos-
> Seems that you have NPT for the parts that need them, and straight
> threads for the lines. Check the Zenith prints before you go screwing
> anything down tight, but it makes sense. You DONT want parts "Permanently"
> attached to the tank to come apart, but you want to be able to get the lines
> off.
> In theory, the tighter you assemble NPT parts, the better the seal.
> Sometimes, teflon tape is recommended to improve the seal.
> This is one of those times you want to do it right the first time. At
> best, a fuel leak can make a mess out of your paint job.
> Bill
>
Find your next car at http://autos.yahoo.ca
Message 23
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Subject: | Re: Range of Bungee replacement questions |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Larry McFarland <larrymc@qconline.com>
Perry,
I purchased 5 spare 1080HD bungees with the thought that they will last
longer, IF as you say, they can be installed. I'd think that a carnuba wax
or silicone paste wax would make any rubbing area take a seat before
shreading delicate bungee wrap.
On re-assembly of the gear boxes,
I think a strip with nut plates, or better, a 3/16" thick metal strip
drilled, tapped and threaded to accept the small bolts will be my choice
for the reinstall.
I turned squares of 5/8" thick Delrin bearing material on the top and
the bottom of the strut supports, 4 bolts each and no bearings on the
tube side slides. Only have 76 hours on the plane, so there'd be no
detectible wear at this point. From a noise or wear standpoint, the
side slides don't seem to exist, because there aren't any real high
excentric loads.
see link images of installed bearings.
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/gear/full/bottom-side-of-top-skin-wit.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/gear/full/upbrg.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/gear/full/stratstops.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/gear/full/gear-bearings-top-and-botto.gif
The caps stick above the wing, and if that distance has increased by
3/8" or more, I'd consider changing them.
I'd thought that with 5 bungees, you'd get a minimum of 400 hours on
these and more with the HD type. My bird weighs in at
730 empty and 1300 gross, but I don't believe they'd wear or fatigue
quite that rapidly, unless you're operating out of a bumpy field.
Is there some literal guidance for wear or fatigue on these? I've only
seen bungees that looked as old as the biplanes they were on.
Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
Dr. Perry Morrison wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dr. Perry Morrison" <perrymorrison@yahoo.com>
>
>
>Time to replace the bungees on my 601HD all round. I've searched the archives
but still have some issues:
>
>
>1. are the bungees ALL 1080s or 1080HD? I have a 912 installation and i'm assuming
that
>
>the 1080s are enough for the lighter weight. Also, the nose gear bungee rubs a
little on
>
>the U channel and I'm not keen on a fatter one going in there.
>
>
>2. gear boxes. This sounds a nightmare. Some people have added rivnuts/nutplates
to replace
>
>the nuts. Access to them for tightening after bungee installation seems a real
problem. i note one poster has drilled a 5/8" hole to allow better access and
a different assembly procedure. if using rivnuts i assume these would have to
be lockwired together.
>
>
>3. lubrication of bungee. is there anything that could be used here without deteriorating
it
>
>and/or the cotton that wraps it? is there any point?
>
>
>4. I may as well add UHMP bearings on the outer lower bearing and maybe the slides.
>
>wondered if the top bearing deserved one on the inside? What amount of wear do
people
>
>find on this top surface? I'm at the 200hr mark.
>
>
>thanks for any advice
>
>
>Perry Morrison
>
>
>__________________________
>Dr. Perry Morrison
>Morrison Associates Pty Ltd
>0408892638
>perrymorrison@yahoo.com
>__________________________
>
>
>
>
Message 24
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Subject: | Re: Fuel system parts / questions |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "William J. Naumuk" <billn@velocity.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: "William J. Naumuk" <billn@velocity.net>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Fuel system parts / questions
All-
Don't beat me for suggesting the use of Teflon tape! I used to build
race cars+bikes and never had a problem. Why? You wrap the tape
counter-clockwise for a right-hand thread. Any excess tape gets pushed away
from, rather than into the fuel line, and it improves the seal.
Works good on plain old plumbing, too.
Bill
> >
> > Find your next car at http://autos.yahoo.ca
> >
> >
>
>
Message 25
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Thomas Makibbin" <tmak@comcast.net>
I have been using water at 50/50 for over a year. No problems.
Tom
601XL
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of EROC@bright.net
Subject: Zenith-List: Cortec
--> Zenith-List message posted by: <EROC@BRIGHT.NET>
Reguarding the thinning of Cortec, the Flight Crafter people
at Sun-n-fun was using water maybe a 50/50 ratio
is this a no no?
Message 26
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Subject: | Re: N414PZ Landing incident |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: ron dewees <rdewees@mindspring.com>
Hi Paul,
Sorry for the public post-- though I had it addressed to Bill here in
GA, but goofed. No, I mistyped the aluminum. It's T6 and not T3. I
just copied what was printed on the old skin. Some of the treatments
double the cost of the skins. ZAC uses one of the more economical
formulations.
Nothing much hurt but my ego. I was planning on another prop anyway
and the skin looks better than the old one now.
Wish all my problems were that simple to fix.
Thanks
Ron
Paul Mulwitz wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: Paul Mulwitz <p.mulwitz@worldnet.att.net>
>
>Hi Ron,
>
>Sorry, I didn't notice it was you who had a little landing
>problem. Oh well, at least you walked away from it.
>
>I noticed your comment on acquiring some 6061 T3 to repair your
>wing. Is this a satisfactory substitute for 6061 T6 ? The T6
>treatment is certainly the normal one for aircraft use.
>
>Good luck,
>
>Paul
>
>At 11:48 AM 10/17/2005, you wrote:
>
>
>> I went to ACS on Saturday and bought a 4X8
>>sheet of .025 6061 T3
>>
>>
>
>---------------------------------------------
>Paul Mulwitz
>32013 NE Dial Road
>Camas, WA 98607
>---------------------------------------------
>
>
>
>
Message 27
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: Gdascomb@aol.com
The manufacturer of Cortec recommends thinning with water. Maximum of 25%
potable (drinking quality) water for brush application.
( from data sheet on VCI-373 liquid wash primer/coating with corrosion
inhibitor.)
I have tried both water & alcohol and both seem to work OK. A good cleaning
with lacquer thinner helps the beading when using water.
George
701
Starting on fuselage
Message 28
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Subject: | First Flight of VH-JNL |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Zodie Rocket" <zodierocket@hsfx.ca>
Congrats on flight in your HDS and it does look mighty fine. My guess on
the Windshield switches is to choose left or right gas tank to be
displayed in the one gauge plus to activate the appropriate pump.
Mark Townsend Alma, Ontario
Zodiac 601XL , Osprey 2 serial # 751
President: Kitchener/Waterloo RAA Chapter
www.ch601.org / www.ch701.com / www.Osprey2.com
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Livsey
Subject: Zenith-List: First Flight of VH-JNL
--> Zenith-List message posted by: John Livsey <jlivsey@bigpond.com>
All,
Although a avid reader of the list I don't post to many items. However
its worth reporting that after seven years of effort VH-JNL took to the
sunny skies on Saturday 15th October.
Some snaps are on my website at
http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/jlivsey/testflying1.html or get to the
full story of construction at http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/jlivsey
regards john livsey
--
10/17/2005
--
10/17/2005
Message 29
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Subject: | 701 aileron trim |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Tebenkof@aol.com
I am pretty sure I have read about people adding electric aileron trim on
their 701s, but am not sure where. Is there a source for such things as best
location and size of tab, servo choice, etc?
Many thanks,
Jim Greenough
Message 30
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Subject: | Fuel system parts / questions |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Graham Kirby" <graham@601hd.com>
Carlos,
These are the same fittings that I have.
Both my finger strainers and drain valves go in about four threads worth
before becoming finger tight in the aluminum flanges. It is a taper fit so
you don't want them to go in all the way.
To get them in a little further, You might consider using wire wool to clean
up the threads on the brass fittings and using a mild abrasive such as metal
polish or toothpaste to help work the fittings into the flanges.
Graham
601HD
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