Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:06 AM - ZINC CHROMATE - Dangerous when not sprayed? (Bima, Martin)
2. 06:26 AM - Zinc bombs (Zed Smith)
3. 07:37 AM - Re: aileron hinge conversion (JAPhillipsGA@aol.com)
4. 07:54 AM - Re: ZINC CHROMATE - Dangerous when not sprayed? (bryanmmartin@comcast.net)
5. 08:01 AM - Re: ZINC CHROMATE - Dangerous when not sprayed? (Monty Graves)
6. 10:14 AM - Re: 601XL aileron trim required? (was 701) (Lance Gingell)
7. 10:15 AM - Re: 601XL Brake Problem (Lance Gingell)
8. 01:14 PM - Rotax 912 Oil leak. (Johann G.)
9. 01:37 PM - Re: ZINC CHROMATE - Dangerous when not sprayed? (Johann G.)
10. 02:33 PM - Re: 912 prop selection (Ron Crook)
11. 02:50 PM - Re: aileron hinge conversion (Leo Corbalis)
12. 03:35 PM - Re: Rotax 912 Oil leak. (Craig Payne)
13. 05:04 PM - Re: Rotax 912 Oil leak. (Jeffrey Glasserow)
14. 05:19 PM - Re: Rotax 912 Oil leak. (Dave Austin)
15. 05:40 PM - Re: ZINC CHROMATE - Dangerous when not sprayed? (Tim & Diane Shankland)
16. 06:14 PM - Re: Rotax 912 Oil leak. (Don Lewis)
17. 10:15 PM - Kit Builder Forever. (Paul Mulwitz)
18. 11:36 PM - Re: Kit Builder Forever. (kevinbonds)
Message 1
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| Subject: | ZINC CHROMATE - Dangerous when not sprayed? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bima, Martin" <mbima@hydro.mb.ca>
I have sprayed Zinc Chromate spray bombs outdoors wearing a respirator
with excellent results.
The cold weather is starting to set in and I still want to paint. I
would like to paint indoors but would rather brush than spray.
Only spray bombs are available locally, so here is my crazy idea.......
1. De-pressurize the cans (hold upside down and spray outdoors or in
paint booth)
2. Punch drain hole and empty the paint into a jar
3. Brush on the paint.
QUESTIONS:
1. Is this really stupid?
2. Do I still need a respirator?
3. Do I still need lots of ventilation?
I have done this with model airplanes and less harmful paint.
Please respond off-list if possible......
MartinBima at mts.net
Message 2
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: Zed Smith <zsmith3rd@earthlink.net>
Most of the spray cans use propane or butane as the propellant.
I'd advise being very careful when punching a hole....regardless of the method.
Zed/701/R912/ka-boom!
do not archive
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: aileron hinge conversion |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: JAPhillipsGA@aol.com
Ron, I got a suggestion you might consider before you start putting in those
hinges. Maybe you should fly my plane with the dual controls. I can't really
say for sure, but maybe it is the nature of the center control yoke and not the
hingeless ailerons that cause the stiffness. Mine seems pretty easy and quick
so I can't really make a comparison. Also I can't remember much how yours
handled so give it some thought, Best regards, Bill
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: ZINC CHROMATE - Dangerous when not sprayed? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: bryanmmartin@comcast.net
This will work but I would use a resperator while piercing the cans and make sure
you point it in a safe direction. If you transfer the paint to another can,
don't seal it up for a couple of days, the propellent will be disolved in the
paint and will gradually bubble out of solution for quite a while and will repressurize
a sealed can and give you a nasty surprise when you try to open it
the next day.
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL, Stratus Subaru.
do not archive
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bima, Martin" <mbima@hydro.mb.ca>
>
> Only spray bombs are available locally, so here is my crazy idea.......
>
> 1. De-pressurize the cans (hold upside down and spray outdoors or in
> paint booth)
> 2. Punch drain hole and empty the paint into a jar
> 3. Brush on the paint.
>
>
> QUESTIONS:
>
> 1. Is this really stupid?
> 2. Do I still need a respirator?
> 3. Do I still need lots of ventilation?
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: ZINC CHROMATE - Dangerous when not sprayed? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Monty Graves <mgraves@usmo.com>
Have you tried the local farm supply stores. Like Tractor
supply, Orschelns. Or Farm implement dealers. Almost all of these
carry Zinc Chromate primer in quart cans, to prime farm machinery with.
Or look up a paint company called Van Sickle. and check for their local
retailer. they can get it for you locally.
http://www.vansicklepaint.com/
Their zinc chromate is more of a greenish YELLOW, instead of a yellowish
GREEN... Its about $8.00 per quart
Monty
At 08:04 AM 10/21/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bima, Martin" <mbima@hydro.mb.ca>
>
>
>The cold weather is starting to set in and I still want to paint. I
>would like to paint indoors but would rather brush than spray.
>
>Only spray bombs are available locally, so here is my crazy idea.......
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: 601XL aileron trim required? (was 701) |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Lance Gingell" <lgingell@matrix-logic.com>
Yes, you DO want aileron trim. If I'm not in 'aileron' trim (fuel
changes trim in flight), and I let my Digitrak fly against the trim it
rocks me back and forth gently (could send you to sleep!)
..lance
--> Zenith-List message posted by: N5SL <nfivesl@yahoo.com>
Hi guys: Can anyone make this same claim with a flying 601XL (see Dave's
comments below)? Anyone leave off the aileron trim on an XL and regret
it?
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: 601XL Brake Problem |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Lance Gingell" <lgingell@matrix-logic.com>
I suspect we can just hear the brakes more, since the engine is quiet on
the ground. I never hear my brakes rattle on the take off roll with full
power!
I guess if they didn't 'relax' so much, they wouldn't rattle, but then
they'd wear quicker..
..lance
Message 8
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| Subject: | Rotax 912 Oil leak. |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Johann G." <johann@gi.is>
Hello all.
After spending two days (and the whole summer since first flight) trying to solve
the oil leak problem on my Rotax 912, I have reached the following conclusion.
I got ripped of by the person who sold me the engine. My loss. Reason for my stubbornness
is because I believed the seller who told me the engine was in good
condition except for the crank twisting after a stall and a prop strike.
Here is the story:
I did the deodorant test suggested by Jerry and found out where the leak is coming
from. It is leaking between the cylinders and the heads on all four.
I called Lockwood and they told me that I should use loctite 221 or 222 on the
mating surfaces between the head and the cylinders which I did today. No change,
still leaking but smelling great after using the deodorant.
So the conclusion is that the heads have overheated sometimes during the first
250 hours of use.
I am not sure if these heads can be repaired because of the head recess. But when
aluminum has overheated, the material is most likely ruined.
Looks like I will need to buy four new heads for approx. $1.400 a piece.
Just wanted to let you all know the result of my oil leak problem.
Thank you all for your support and great ideas.
Best wishes,
Johann G.
Iceland.
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: ZINC CHROMATE - Dangerous when not sprayed? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Johann G." <johann@gi.is>
Hello Martin.
Just go to a DuPont dealer near you and buy the 820R primer and 822R
thinner/activator and mix it 50/50. Use a small roller or a brush and you
will avoid any danger when trying to get the primer out of the pressurized
can.
Have fun.
Johann G.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bima, Martin" <mbima@hydro.mb.ca>
Subject: Zenith-List: ZINC CHROMATE - Dangerous when not sprayed?
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bima, Martin" <mbima@hydro.mb.ca>
>
> I have sprayed Zinc Chromate spray bombs outdoors wearing a respirator
> with excellent results.
>
> The cold weather is starting to set in and I still want to paint. I
> would like to paint indoors but would rather brush than spray.
>
> Only spray bombs are available locally, so here is my crazy idea.......
>
> 1. De-pressurize the cans (hold upside down and spray outdoors or in
> paint booth)
> 2. Punch drain hole and empty the paint into a jar
> 3. Brush on the paint.
>
>
> QUESTIONS:
>
> 1. Is this really stupid?
> 2. Do I still need a respirator?
> 3. Do I still need lots of ventilation?
>
>
> I have done this with model airplanes and less harmful paint.
>
>
> Please respond off-list if possible......
>
>
> MartinBima at mts.net
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | 912 prop selection |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Ron Crook" <ronflys701@hotmail.com>
Hello Bruce I have the 80 hp 912 and at present run an Ivo 74in and also
have a 3 blade warp with nickel edges at 72in both work great. I have a 2 in
block attached to the front fork for extra ground clearance they recomment
7in min......Its all in the rpm I set mine for cruise at 5600 top rpm in the
air and get approx 80 mph at 5200 rpm ..........if u want climb go for top
at 5800 rpm...good luck!
>From: "Bruce Thomas" <bvthomas@bigpond.com>
>Reply-To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>To: <zenith-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Zenith-List: 912 prop selection
>Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2005 18:59:38 -0700 2.32 DATE_IN_FUTURE_12_24
>Date: is 12 to 24 hours after Received: date
>
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bruce Thomas" <bvthomas@bigpond.com>
>
>Hi Guys,
>A little help please, I want to fit a Warp drive 3 blade ground adjustable
>prop tp my 701 with a Rotax 912.
>The question is what diameter 68", 70" or 72" is best. I know that a 68"
>gives me 10inches ground clearance.
>Thanks in advance
>Bruce Thomas Aust.
>
>
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Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: aileron hinge conversion |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Leo Corbalis" <leocorbalis@sbcglobal.net>
I'm happy with the skin hinge feel having flown with a total artifical feel
system in the B-47. There's very little differience in the actual feel. Its
also great fun to ask strangers to check out my aileron hinges. REALLY
boggles some of them !!
Leo Corbalis
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Clyde Barcus" <barcusc@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: aileron hinge conversion
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Clyde Barcus" <barcusc@comcast.net>
>
> I discussed this with Chris Heinz at Sun-N-Fun and he said "No Problem". I
> used .025 angle on the underside of the flange, the hinge supplied by ZAC
> goes between the skin and. the angle and I trimmed the skin back to the
> same
> measurement as the hinge type. You will have another row of rivets on top,
> the conversion takes an hour or two.
>
> Regards:
>
> Clyde Barcus
> 601XL Corvair Powered
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "ron dewees" <rdewees@mindspring.com>
> To: "zenair" <zenith-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Zenith-List: aileron hinge conversion
>
>
>> --> Zenith-List message posted by: ron dewees <rdewees@mindspring.com>
>>
>> Hi listers,
>> My 601 HDS is down for some maintenance at the time and I have been
>> giving some thought to converting from hingeless to hinged ailerons.
>> Don't get me wrong, I have no particular complaint with the hingeless
>> aileron and think it will last into the next century. I do think it's
>> stiffer than a hinged aileron and that my ailreon trim is almost useless
>> because it tries to work against the friction of the wing skin rather
>> than hinges like the elevator uses.
>> For anyone who has converted from hingeless to hinged, what has been
>> your experience, was it worth it, and what kind of piano hinge did you
>> use. It looks like you need a wide hinge to reach the two rivet lines
>> and even then, will need a third rivet line to secure the overlapping
>> edges of the old aileron skin.
>> Pictures or comments would be very welcome.
>> Thanks
>> Ron 601HDS
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 12
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Received-SPF: none (mgr1.xmission.com: 166.70.39.121 is neither permitted nor denied
by domain of craigandjean.com) client-ip=166.70.39.121; envelope-from=craig@craigandjean.com;
helo=TheTCCraig;
| Subject: | Rotax 912 Oil leak. |
T_TM2_M_HEADER_IN_MSG autolearn=disabled version=3.0.3
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Craig Payne" <craig@craigandjean.com>
Would it make you feel any better if the seller just didn't know he had
cooked the engine? Is the oil leak so obvious that he would have had to
notice it?
-- Craig
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Johann G.
Subject: Zenith-List: Rotax 912 Oil leak.
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Johann G." <johann@gi.is>
Hello all.
After spending two days (and the whole summer since first flight) trying to
solve the oil leak problem on my Rotax 912, I have reached the following
conclusion.
I got ripped of by the person who sold me the engine. My loss. Reason for my
stubbornness is because I believed the seller who told me the engine was in
good condition except for the crank twisting after a stall and a prop
strike.
Here is the story:
I did the deodorant test suggested by Jerry and found out where the leak is
coming from. It is leaking between the cylinders and the heads on all four.
I called Lockwood and they told me that I should use loctite 221 or 222 on
the mating surfaces between the head and the cylinders which I did today. No
change, still leaking but smelling great after using the deodorant.
So the conclusion is that the heads have overheated sometimes during the
first 250 hours of use.
I am not sure if these heads can be repaired because of the head recess. But
when aluminum has overheated, the material is most likely ruined.
Looks like I will need to buy four new heads for approx. $1.400 a piece.
Just wanted to let you all know the result of my oil leak problem.
Thank you all for your support and great ideas.
Best wishes,
Johann G.
Iceland.
Message 13
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| Subject: | Rotax 912 Oil leak. |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jeffrey Glasserow" <jeffglass@starband.net>
Johann, you might want to try this remedy. On our motorcycle racing
engines, which use no head gaskets, we put down a VERY light coat of
Permatex Form-a-Gasket (sometimes we even use a fairly thick coat of silver
paint) and a piece of heavy thread on top of that. We then torque to the
desired torque. In your case, whatever the proper torque that Rotax
specifies. It's worth a try, especially at $1400 per head. By the way, We
are running flathead engines that rev in excess of 8200 RPM for at least 3
minutes per run.
Jeff Glasserow
CH 601 HDS
& 3 land speed records to boot!
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax 912 Oil leak. |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave Austin" <daveaustin2@sprint.ca>
Is there no way you can get a machine shop to true up the face of the heads,
before you spend that much per head?
Are you getting compression leaks through the head joints? If not, the
leaks can only be at very low pressure, so you could try a liquid gasket
approach. Can't think of a name but someone on the list will know.
Dave Austin 601HDS - 912, Spitfire Mk VIII
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: ZINC CHROMATE - Dangerous when not sprayed? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Tim & Diane Shankland <tshank@megsinet.net>
I don't wish to sound caviler about this, but I think the fear of Zinc
Chromate has been over hyped such as asbestos and radon . When I was in
high school and college about 40 years ago I worked in several boat
marinas as a mechanic. We used zinc chromate all the time. Back then we
didn't even think about safety stuff. Anyway I'm still alive and
suffering no ill effects. I am more careful now and wear a activated
carbon mask when spraying inside, but I don't go to extreme measures. To
me it sound more dangerous and risks more exposure opening pressurized
cans than just using it in the can like it was intended with some
protection.
Tim Shankland
Bima, Martin wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bima, Martin" <mbima@hydro.mb.ca>
>
>I have sprayed Zinc Chromate spray bombs outdoors wearing a respirator
>with excellent results.
>
>The cold weather is starting to set in and I still want to paint. I
>would like to paint indoors but would rather brush than spray.
>
>Only spray bombs are available locally, so here is my crazy idea.......
>
>1. De-pressurize the cans (hold upside down and spray outdoors or in
>paint booth)
>2. Punch drain hole and empty the paint into a jar
>3. Brush on the paint.
>
>
>QUESTIONS:
>
>1. Is this really stupid?
>2. Do I still need a respirator?
>3. Do I still need lots of ventilation?
>
>
>I have done this with model airplanes and less harmful paint.
>
>
>Please respond off-list if possible......
>
>
>MartinBima at mts.net
>
>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax 912 Oil leak. |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Don Lewis" <don_lewis@swbell.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Johann G." <johann@gi.is>
Subject: Zenith-List: Rotax 912 Oil leak.
.
> I am not sure if these heads can be repaired because of the head recess.
> But when aluminum has overheated, the material is most likely ruined.
> Looks like I will need to buy four new heads for approx. $1.400 a piece.
> Just wanted to let you all know the result of my oil leak problem.
> Thank you all for your support and great ideas.
>
> Best wishes,
> Johann G.
> Iceland.
>
Johann; Go to http://tinyurl.com/a5tqr and read the head gasket problem
fix on Ford V6s by Bruce Franks... If the heads are not warped too bad, his
method might fix your problem.....
Don
Message 17
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| Subject: | Kit Builder Forever. |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Paul Mulwitz <p.mulwitz@worldnet.att.net>
Well, I screwed up one of my kit supplied nose ribs. "No big deal" I
said, I'll just make another one.
Now, several days later I have my first scratch built nose
rib. Well, I did have the example from the kit to guide me (which
helped me avoid several mistakes). It is probably air worthy, but
certainly ugly. It curves where it is supposed to be straight. It
has wrinkles where it is supposed to be smooth. It looks really
bad. (And I still have to figure out how I am going to flare the
lightening hole!)
All of you scratch builders out there get my admiration. For me, it
is Kit Builder Forever.
Paul
XL wings
do not archive
---------------------------------------------
Paul Mulwitz
32013 NE Dial Road
Camas, WA 98607
---------------------------------------------
Message 18
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| Subject: | Kit Builder Forever. |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "kevinbonds" <kevinbonds@comcast.net>
Paul
I don't think any artist ever painted a masterpiece on the first try . . .
Of course I've never tried to paint. Ha! The Lightning hole would be hard
to do without the proper dies. Maybe someone in your area could do it for
you. I would be glad to flange your "masterpiece", but I am far from you.
Probably would be expensive to ship to me.
Kevin Bonds
Nashville TN
601XL Corvair powered; Plans building.
Empennage done; working on wings and engine.
http://home.comcast.net/~kevinbonds
do not archive DO NOT ARCHIVE
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Mulwitz
Subject: Zenith-List: Kit Builder Forever.
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Paul Mulwitz <p.mulwitz@worldnet.att.net>
Well, I screwed up one of my kit supplied nose ribs. "No big deal" I
said, I'll just make another one.
Now, several days later I have my first scratch built nose
rib. Well, I did have the example from the kit to guide me (which
helped me avoid several mistakes). It is probably air worthy, but
certainly ugly. It curves where it is supposed to be straight. It
has wrinkles where it is supposed to be smooth. It looks really
bad. (And I still have to figure out how I am going to flare the
lightening hole!)
All of you scratch builders out there get my admiration. For me, it
is Kit Builder Forever.
Paul
XL wings
do not archive
---------------------------------------------
Paul Mulwitz
32013 NE Dial Road
Camas, WA 98607
---------------------------------------------
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