Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:36 AM - Re: corvair engine (roy vickski)
2. 06:32 AM - Re: fuel pump (Larry)
3. 09:24 AM - Matco bearings (Rob Norris)
4. 10:22 AM - Re: Re: Zenith-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 10/21/05 (Richard Hutson)
5. 11:21 AM - "Machined" Riveter Heads (Debo Cox)
6. 11:35 AM - Transceiver Headsets (JAPhillipsGA@aol.com)
7. 11:50 AM - Re: "Machined" Riveter Heads (Gary A. Boothe)
8. 11:55 AM - Re: Transceiver Headsets (Craig Payne)
9. 12:01 PM - Re: "Machined" Riveter Heads (JAPhillipsGA@aol.com)
10. 12:19 PM - Re: "Machined" Riveter Heads (Randy L. Thwing)
11. 12:34 PM - Re: Transceiver Headsets T_TM2_M_HEADER_IN_MSG autolearn=disable... (JAPhillipsGA@aol.com)
12. 12:49 PM - Re: "Machined" Riveter Heads (Larry McFarland)
13. 01:01 PM - Re: Transceiver Headsets (Larry McFarland)
14. 01:05 PM - Re: "Machined" Riveter Heads (Bill Denton)
15. 01:07 PM - Fuel pressure gauge (victor verdev)
16. 01:24 PM - Re: Re: Zenith-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 10/21/05 (Richard Hutson)
17. 01:39 PM - Re: Transceiver Headsets (JAPhillipsGA@aol.com)
18. 01:39 PM - Re: Riveter heads (Zed Smith)
19. 01:41 PM - Re: "Machined" Riveter Heads (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
20. 02:09 PM - Re: fuel pump (royt.or@netzero.com)
21. 02:58 PM - Re: "Machined" Riveter Heads (Bryan Martin)
22. 03:00 PM - Re: Fuel pressure gauge (Bryan Martin)
23. 03:03 PM - Re: "Machined" Riveter Heads (William J. Naumuk)
24. 07:59 PM - Re: Matco bearings. (Gary Gower)
25. 08:14 PM - Re: "Machined" Riveter Heads (Gary Gower)
26. 08:20 PM - N414PZ landing incident and Matco bearings follow-up (Paul Hartl)
27. 09:10 PM - Re: N414PZ landing incident and Matco bearings (Paul Mulwitz)
28. 10:49 PM - Re: N414PZ landing incident and Matco bearings follow-up (xl)
Message 1
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| Subject: | RE: corvair engine |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: roy vickski <rvickski@yahoo.com>
Greetings All,
A note about corvair engines. The late engines 65-69
are preferred due to larger displacement and stronger
con rods, info about the prefered set up and
components can be found at flycorvair.com and
corvaircraft.com.
Roy 701 plans
Eaa tech councilor visited on saturday and was fairly
impressed.
do not archive
Message 2
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Larry" <lrm01@centurytel.net>
No, not as long as you got the in and out right.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Mattson" <dougmattson@isp.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: fuel pump
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Doug Mattson" <dougmattson@isp.com>
>
> Does it make any difference what orientation the Facet fuel pumps are
> mounted in? I would like to put mine vertical.
>
> Doug Mattson
>
>
> --
>
>
Message 3
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Rob Norris" <DryCreekRob@earthlink.net>
Is there any way to tell the poor quality bearings from the good ones by inspection?
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Paul Hartl" <paulhartl@cox.net>
The original bearings in my wheels (sold to me through Zenith in 1998)
were Chinese-made and of poor quality, and have been problematic for the
new owners of Matco - new, that is, since they bought the company in
2000. I was mistaken in my earlier note saying that these should have
been tapered roller bearings. According to George Happ at Matco, they
were always ball bearings, and that's what my new bearings are as well.
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Zenith-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 10/21/05 |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Richard Hutson" <rhutson@midsouth.rr.com>
Man, that is an expensive piece of history to do be doing speed tests with.
You should put it in a showroom, "like your living room" you the world can
see it!!!
> My 1934 Indian Scout cruises at 125 MPH @ 75% power, top speed (an average
> of two runs, one in each direction to negate wind effect,
> 131.8 MPH) Indian Scout motor 45 cubic inches, (750 CC's), 87 octane pump
> fuel.
> Now, THAT'S flying!
> Jeff Glasserow
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE!
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | "Machined" Riveter Heads |
0.22 FROM_HAS_ULINE_NUMS From": contains.an.underline.and.numbers/letters@roxy.matronics.com
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Debo Cox <sky_ranger161@yahoo.com>
Hi guys,
I'm just getting started with a 601 HD project and am
curious about the "machined" riveter heads required by
Zenith. Am I over-simplifying this, or can't I just
take a round grinding stone on my Dremel and "machine"
'em myself?
I know they're supposed to be ground to the same
diameter as the rivet head. Is there another way that
people are doing this, or is it something I should buy
from ZAC?
Thanks in advance for the help.
Debo Cox
Message 6
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| Subject: | Transceiver Headsets |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: JAPhillipsGA@aol.com
Dear Thread Friends, though my XL with 3300 Jab is a pretty quite flying toy
both my head sets are over 15 years old and mostly bummed out. Thought I
would buy my sweet wife a new one (and one for me to) so that when I get the
remainder of these dammed 40 hours flown off she will have nice new headset to
use
to fly with me. Problem is there are hundreds of headsets available at all
different costs with all different kinds of "bells and whistles" options. What
I want is a headset that also has a features that negates noise and is stereo
for my tunes and costs around $400. Anybody got a suggestion that gets close?
Best regards, Bill
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: "Machined" Riveter Heads |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Gary A. Boothe" <gboothe@calply.com>
Debo,
A Dremel is exactly what I used. It may take about 30 minutes, but is
definitely doable. You may wish to shape your grinding stone ahead of time
as they are usually a little to pointed to start with. I used plenty of oil
while grinding, too. You can use a rivet to check the grind and be sure to
stop grinding before you have surpassed the diameter if the rivet. If you do
grind too deep, just flatten the face of the head a little.
Good luck,
Gary Boothe, Cool, Ca
<gboothe@calply.com>
601HDSTD, WW Corvair Conv. - complete
Tail Group - complete. Working on Wings...
----- Original Message -----
From: "Debo Cox" <sky_ranger161@yahoo.com>
From:contains.an.underline.and.numbers/letters"@roxy.matronics.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: "Machined" Riveter Heads
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Debo Cox <sky_ranger161@yahoo.com>
>
> Hi guys,
>
> I'm just getting started with a 601 HD project and am
> curious about the "machined" riveter heads required by
> Zenith. Am I over-simplifying this, or can't I just
> take a round grinding stone on my Dremel and "machine"
> 'em myself?
>
> I know they're supposed to be ground to the same
> diameter as the rivet head. Is there another way that
> people are doing this, or is it something I should buy
> from ZAC?
>
> Thanks in advance for the help.
>
> Debo Cox
>
>
>
Message 8
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Received-SPF: none (mgr1.xmission.com: 166.70.39.121 is neither permitted nor denied
by domain of craigandjean.com) client-ip=166.70.39.121; envelope-from=craig@craigandjean.com;
helo=TheTCCraig;
| Subject: | Transceiver Headsets |
T_TM2_M_HEADER_IN_MSG autolearn=disabled version=3.0.3
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Craig Payne" <craig@craigandjean.com>
Try Sporty's headset wizard to narrow you choices.
http://www.sportys.com/terryc/headset1.cfm?trackingId=700
I love my Lightspeed twenty3g's. Aside from the noise reduction their most
important feature to me is auto-shutoff. I always forget to turn my headset
off at the end of a flight.
http://www.sportys.com/acb/showdetl.cfm?&DID=19&Product_ID=6451 although it
may be cheaper from other vendors.
-- Craig
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
JAPhillipsGA@aol.com
Subject: Zenith-List: Transceiver Headsets
--> Zenith-List message posted by: JAPhillipsGA@aol.com
Dear Thread Friends, though my XL with 3300 Jab is a pretty quite flying toy
both my head sets are over 15 years old and mostly bummed out. Thought I
would buy my sweet wife a new one (and one for me to) so that when I get the
remainder of these dammed 40 hours flown off she will have nice new headset
to use to fly with me. Problem is there are hundreds of headsets available
at all different costs with all different kinds of "bells and whistles"
options. What I want is a headset that also has a features that negates
noise and is stereo for my tunes and costs around $400. Anybody got a
suggestion that gets close?
Best regards, Bill
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: "Machined" Riveter Heads |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: JAPhillipsGA@aol.com
Mr. Debo, I can't really sat what ZAC "requires" or not for these rivet
heads, but what I did was sort of countersink the heads by drilling them out.
Machine can be that I suppose, just try is and see how they look after you pull
some. Best regards, Bill
Do Not Archive
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: "Machined" Riveter Heads |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Randy L. Thwing" <n4546v@mindspring.com>
For a short article on the easy way to form puller heads using Dremel
tool, go to the archives for a short article I offered. It is message
#11121 or use the search word: "gottem" and it is the only message that
will come up.
Regards,
Randy L. Thwing, 701 plans
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: "Machined" Riveter Heads
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Gary A. Boothe" <gboothe@calply.com>
>
> Debo,
>
> A Dremel is exactly what I used. It may take about 30 minutes, but is
> definitely doable. You may wish to shape your grinding stone ahead of
time
> as they are usually a little to pointed to start with. I used plenty of
oil
> while grinding, too. You can use a rivet to check the grind and be sure
to
> stop grinding before you have surpassed the diameter if the rivet. If you
do
> grind too deep, just flatten the face of the head a little.
>
> Good luck,
> Gary Boothe, Cool, Ca
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Transceiver Headsets T_TM2_M_HEADER_IN_MSG autolearn=disable... |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: JAPhillipsGA@aol.com
Craig, thanks for the headset info, Bill
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: "Machined" Riveter Heads |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Larry McFarland <larrymc@qconline.com>
Debo,
I'd recommend you buy the first hand riveter with their dies, which is
reasonably priced.
The dies won't wear out, but the hand riveter does, and you'd probably
like a better
riveter later, so copy the ZAC dies. I made them using a ball mill
cutter placed in a lathe tailstock drill
chuck and the die held in a 3-jaw. If you're lucky enough to find a
hand riveter that has the same
interchange die threads, don't bother with additional dies.
Larry McFarland at www.macsmachine.com
do not archive
Debo Cox wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: Debo Cox <sky_ranger161@yahoo.com>
>
>Hi guys,
>
>I'm just getting started with a 601 HD project and am
>curious about the "machined" riveter heads required by
>Zenith. Am I over-simplifying this, or can't I just
>take a round grinding stone on my Dremel and "machine"
>'em myself?
>
>I know they're supposed to be ground to the same
>diameter as the rivet head. Is there another way that
>people are doing this, or is it something I should buy
>from ZAC?
>
>Thanks in advance for the help.
>
>Debo Cox
>
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Transceiver Headsets |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Larry McFarland <larrymc@qconline.com>
Bill,
Recently purchased a Clarity Aloft headset to alleviate my wifes
complaints about
clamping and head pressure. I've been "testing them" for her in lieu of
using my Lightspeeds
and find that the noise damping is much better, sounds are much clearer
and I'll probably
have to purchase another set for me. Yes, they are above your $400
target, but for
a little more, an in the ear, 2-oz headset that outperforms the
Lightspeeds, I have to say
they are worth it.
Larry McFarland at www.macsmachine.com
do not archive
JAPhillipsGA@aol.com wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: JAPhillipsGA@aol.com
>
>Dear Thread Friends, though my XL with 3300 Jab is a pretty quite flying toy
>both my head sets are over 15 years old and mostly bummed out. Thought I
>would buy my sweet wife a new one (and one for me to) so that when I get the
>remainder of these dammed 40 hours flown off she will have nice new headset to
use
>to fly with me. Problem is there are hundreds of headsets available at all
>different costs with all different kinds of "bells and whistles" options. What
>I want is a headset that also has a features that negates noise and is stereo
>for my tunes and costs around $400. Anybody got a suggestion that gets close?
>Best regards, Bill
>
>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | "Machined" Riveter Heads |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bill Denton" <bdenton@bdenton.com>
Guys...
Hand Riveter with Custom Machined Heads (1/8" and 5/32") - $ 49.50
Pneumatic Riveter with Custom Machined Heads (1/8" and 5/32"). Includes
pressure regulator. (Requires air compressor). - $ 89.20
http://www.zenithair.com/kit/tools/index.html
This thread kinda reminds me of something I saw years ago:
It started with the instructions for how to convert a screwdriver into a
pair of pliers, then a pair of pliers into a hammer, then a hammer into a
hacksaw, then a hacksaw into a screwdriver. (I'm sure this is not exactly
how it went, but you get the idea).
Ya gotta ask yourself how much your time is worth...
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry
McFarland
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: "Machined" Riveter Heads
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Larry McFarland <larrymc@qconline.com>
Debo,
I'd recommend you buy the first hand riveter with their dies, which is
reasonably priced.
The dies won't wear out, but the hand riveter does, and you'd probably
like a better
riveter later, so copy the ZAC dies. I made them using a ball mill
cutter placed in a lathe tailstock drill
chuck and the die held in a 3-jaw. If you're lucky enough to find a
hand riveter that has the same
interchange die threads, don't bother with additional dies.
Larry McFarland at www.macsmachine.com
do not archive
Debo Cox wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: Debo Cox <sky_ranger161@yahoo.com>
>
>Hi guys,
>
>I'm just getting started with a 601 HD project and am
>curious about the "machined" riveter heads required by
>Zenith. Am I over-simplifying this, or can't I just
>take a round grinding stone on my Dremel and "machine"
>'em myself?
>
>I know they're supposed to be ground to the same
>diameter as the rivet head. Is there another way that
>people are doing this, or is it something I should buy
>from ZAC?
>
>Thanks in advance for the help.
>
>Debo Cox
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Fuel pressure gauge |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: victor verdev <vjvus@yahoo.com>
What range should A fuel pressure gauge have for my
601XL; installing Lycoming 0-235. 0-15 psi.,or 0-30
psi.? thanks
__________________________________
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Zenith-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 10/21/05 |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Richard Hutson" <rhutson@midsouth.rr.com>
please forgive my back English, it should read "so the world can see it."
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Hutson" <rhutson@midsouth.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Re: Zenith-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 10/21/05
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Richard Hutson"
> <rhutson@midsouth.rr.com>
>
> Man, that is an expensive piece of history to do be doing speed tests
> with.
> You should put it in a showroom, "like your living room" so the world can
> see it!!!
>
>
>> My 1934 Indian Scout cruises at 125 MPH @ 75% power, top speed (an
>> average
>> of two runs, one in each direction to negate wind effect,
>> 131.8 MPH) Indian Scout motor 45 cubic inches, (750 CC's), 87 octane pump
>> fuel.
>> Now, THAT'S flying!
>> Jeff Glasserow
>>
>> DO NOT ARCHIVE!
>>
>
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Transceiver Headsets |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: JAPhillipsGA@aol.com
Larry, as one of the millions of fat old guys over 50 that the ears grow hair
so thick I'm not sure the 'in ear' option headset wouldn't drive me crazy,
Thanks, Bill
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Riveter heads |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Zed Smith <zsmith3rd@earthlink.net>
Five or six years ago ZAC was kind enough to give me the info on the burs they
used to grind riveter heads for the A4 & A5 rivets. Seems that they told me the
"trade number".
Escapes me at the moment the exact info, but these burs are available from Grainger,
and others.
Grainger catalog 396, page 3084, shows their merchandise. (Abrasives, carbide
burs & sets)
Try grainger.com, and click from there.
As others have mentioned, the Dremel may suffice.
Zed/701/R912/etc do not archive
Message 19
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| Subject: | "Machined" Riveter Heads |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
Lets put it this way,...If you build from a kit and buy an engine
package the thing will cost you about 30K+ to build.
I guarrantee you will be miserable riveting by hand...For me at least
its not even a question...Pnuematic is the way to go.
Another small example is the RV7...In the QB kit there are about 300
rivets to do by hand...of course for 300 rivets your not going to buy a
pnumatic riviter are you?....Just about every RV QB builder squeals like
a stuck pig at having to do ALL THOSE RIVETS by hand...Give me a break.
Sure glad I hand built a ZAC before the RV though...he he he!
Buy the pneumatic and don't give it another thought...>Assuming you
already have a little compressor of course..:)
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Denton
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: "Machined" Riveter Heads
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bill Denton" <bdenton@bdenton.com>
Guys...
Hand Riveter with Custom Machined Heads (1/8" and 5/32") - $ 49.50
Pneumatic Riveter with Custom Machined Heads (1/8" and 5/32"). Includes
pressure regulator. (Requires air compressor). - $ 89.20
http://www.zenithair.com/kit/tools/index.html
This thread kinda reminds me of something I saw years ago:
It started with the instructions for how to convert a screwdriver into a
pair of pliers, then a pair of pliers into a hammer, then a hammer into
a hacksaw, then a hacksaw into a screwdriver. (I'm sure this is not
exactly how it went, but you get the idea).
Ya gotta ask yourself how much your time is worth...
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry
McFarland
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: "Machined" Riveter Heads
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Larry McFarland
--> <larrymc@qconline.com>
Debo,
I'd recommend you buy the first hand riveter with their dies, which is
reasonably priced.
The dies won't wear out, but the hand riveter does, and you'd probably
like a better riveter later, so copy the ZAC dies. I made them using a
ball mill cutter placed in a lathe tailstock drill chuck and the die
held in a 3-jaw. If you're lucky enough to find a hand riveter that has
the same interchange die threads, don't bother with additional dies.
Larry McFarland at www.macsmachine.com
do not archive
Debo Cox wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: Debo Cox <sky_ranger161@yahoo.com>
>
>Hi guys,
>
>I'm just getting started with a 601 HD project and am curious about the
>"machined" riveter heads required by Zenith. Am I over-simplifying
>this, or can't I just take a round grinding stone on my Dremel and
>"machine"
>'em myself?
>
>I know they're supposed to be ground to the same diameter as the rivet
>head. Is there another way that people are doing this, or is it
>something I should buy from ZAC?
>
>Thanks in advance for the help.
>
>Debo Cox
>
>
Message 20
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "royt.or@netzero.com" <royt.or@netzero.com>
Regarding Facet fuel pump orientation Larry wrote: "No, not as long as you got
the in and out right."
The expert source believes orentation DOES matter. From http://www.facet-purolator.com/mcl/pages/frame_src/ttips_frmsrc.html:
"Generally speaking, fuel pumps push fuel better than they draw fuel. The inlet
side of the pump should be no higher than 12" above the bottom of the fuel tank
to assure the ability of the pump to self prime. Fuel Pump models with a check
valve are available for hight lift applications. The pump should be mounted
with the outlet elevated above the inlet to assist with priming ability and
also helps purge the system of air. Additionally select a location away from excessive
heat sources."
Regards,
Roy
N601RT: CH601HDS, nose gear, Rotax 912ULS, All electric, IFR equipped,
479hrs, 581 landings
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: "Machined" Riveter Heads |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Bryan Martin <bryanmmartin@comcast.net>
I tried using a drill bit to shape my riveter heads but the heads were
harder than the drill bit. So I just chucked the riveter head in my drill
motor, put the drill motor in the vice, locked down the trigger and used my
dremel with a small grinding stone to shape the cavity in the riveter head.
Grind a bit, pull a couple test rivets, grind a bit more. It took about 15
minutes to get it just right.
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL, Stratus Subaru.
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Debo Cox <sky_ranger161@yahoo.com>
>
> Hi guys,
>
> I'm just getting started with a 601 HD project and am
> curious about the "machined" riveter heads required by
> Zenith. Am I over-simplifying this, or can't I just
> take a round grinding stone on my Dremel and "machine"
> 'em myself?
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel pressure gauge |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Bryan Martin <bryanmmartin@comcast.net>
For a carbureted engine, 0-15.
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL, Stratus Subaru.
do not archive.
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: victor verdev <vjvus@yahoo.com>
>
> What range should A fuel pressure gauge have for my
> 601XL; installing Lycoming 0-235. 0-15 psi.,or 0-30
> psi.? thanks
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: "Machined" Riveter Heads |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "William J. Naumuk" <billn@velocity.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Debo Cox" <sky_ranger161@yahoo.com>
From:contains.an.underline.and.numbers/letters"@roxy.matronics.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: "Machined" Riveter Heads
Debo-
I haven't worn the jaws of the Zenith riveter out yet (It's coming
sooner or later) but I did break the big spring that keeps the handles open.
Couldn't find a spring anywhere- finally got a suitable replacement from
McMaster-Carr. I still can't sit down from the shipping charge. $2.07 for
the spring, and $8.93 for shipping!! Still, better than $50.
When my puller finally craps out, I'll do what Larry Mac suggests, but
with my drill press. Put a little block of wood under the new anvil to
square it up, then clamp the anvil on it's flats to keep from buggering up
the threads. Leave the vise loose.
Chuck a drill bit the size of the anvil hole and run it through the hole
in the anvil, moving the vise until there's no pressure against the bit.
Then, cut the recess with a ball mill.
Just a suggestion- whatever works for you!
Bill
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Matco bearings. |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Gary Gower <ggower_99@yahoo.com>
Basically not, but some imported Asian bearings have a "unkown" brand name...
In fact, not all the Asian brands bearings are of bad quality, some are competetitive
quality, just they cost less, given their lower production costs...
mainly in labor.
To change your set of bearings is not expensive, If you change them (no AP costs),
This size of bearings can be found in any auto parts store,.. Just need
to be of the same "nunber" or his equivalent, This number indicates the sizes
and type... Just choose a known USA brand with the same number, in case you
have dought...
Remember Aviation doesnt like the "could work" expression. "Completly sure"
is the only way to go.
I have first hand experience with bearings, because I have used and select my bearings
from all brands (Local, USA or Asian) in my Food Carts.. All work at
walk - push speeds prefectly... :-) but eventualy some even had failed at
this speeds and weights!!
Saludos
Gary Gower
Rob Norris <DryCreekRob@earthlink.net> wrote:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Rob Norris"
Is there any way to tell the poor quality bearings from the good ones by inspection?
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Paul Hartl"
The original bearings in my wheels (sold to me through Zenith in 1998)
were Chinese-made and of poor quality, and have been problematic for the
new owners of Matco - new, that is, since they bought the company in
2000. I was mistaken in my earlier note saying that these should have
been tapered roller bearings. According to George Happ at Matco, they
were always ball bearings, and that's what my new bearings are as well.
---------------------------------
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: "Machined" Riveter Heads |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Gary Gower <ggower_99@yahoo.com>
I used hardware inexpensive POP rivets in the tests, Once satified, I pulled
one A4 rivet, was perfect... Same with the A5's.
Saludos
Gary Gower.
Bryan Martin <bryanmmartin@comcast.net> wrote:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Bryan Martin
I tried using a drill bit to shape my riveter heads but the heads were
harder than the drill bit. So I just chucked the riveter head in my drill
motor, put the drill motor in the vice, locked down the trigger and used my
dremel with a small grinding stone to shape the cavity in the riveter head.
Grind a bit, pull a couple test rivets, grind a bit more. It took about 15
minutes to get it just right.
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL, Stratus Subaru.
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Debo Cox
>
> Hi guys,
>
> I'm just getting started with a 601 HD project and am
> curious about the "machined" riveter heads required by
> Zenith. Am I over-simplifying this, or can't I just
> take a round grinding stone on my Dremel and "machine"
> 'em myself?
>
---------------------------------
Message 26
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| Subject: | N414PZ landing incident and Matco bearings follow-up |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Paul Hartl" <paulhartl@cox.net>
Zenith list,
My actions may have been the primary cause of failure in my right main
wheel bearing 10 days ago. Ron Lee from this list pointed out that the
problem could have been over-tightening of the ball bearings, so I
checked my left main wheel - the one that had not failed and is not yet
replaced - and it was indeed too tight. I could back off the pressure
substantially and still have no play, so I did, and it now turns more
freely.
One of the problems in figuring this out is that I mounted the mains 2
years ago, and I can't remember what the heck I did then. I'm sure I
read the instructions - which depicted them as containing roller
bearings, and need more tightening than ball bearings, but I don't
remember a thing about it. Definitely a case of getting old and losing
it, I guess.
Anyway, the real culprit may well be me (with a little assistance from
incorrect drawings), and not the Chinese bearings. However, George at
the new Matco says they have had problems from others with the Chinese
bearings supplied by their predecessors, so maybe that's part of the
problem, too. Who knows?
If any are still interested in changing out their present bearings, give
Matco a call at (801) 486-7574 and you will find them very helpful
people. They charged me $7.50 a bearing, so the whole set of six would
be $45.
Lastly, let me apologize if I have made anyone worry unduly about their
wheels! I have been reticent to contribute much in the past, because I
don't feel all that knowledgeable, but I thought I should write about
this incident.
Thanks for the helpful advice - and patience!
-Paul
Paul Hartl, N414PZ, 601HDS/Jabiru 3300A, 29.2 hrs, 40 landings
Flight Simulator 2002/4 Zodiac Website: www.members.cox.net/paulhartl
Sun Valley, Idaho 83340 208-788-9147
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: N414PZ landing incident and Matco bearings |
follow-up
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Paul Mulwitz <p.mulwitz@worldnet.att.net> follow-up
Thank you, Paul, for the report and the whole incident write up.
This is what I think the list is for - to inform those of us who
don't know everything as much as is possible. I appreciate what you
did - from start to finish.
Please keep contributing.
Paul
XL Wings
do not archive
At 08:17 PM 10/24/2005, you wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Paul Hartl" <paulhartl@cox.net>
>
>Zenith list,
>
> My actions may have been the primary cause of failure in my right main
>wheel bearing 10 days ago. Ron Lee from this list pointed out that the
>problem could have been over-tightening of the ball bearings, so I
>checked my left main wheel - the one that had not failed and is not yet
>replaced - and it was indeed too tight. I could back off the pressure
>substantially and still have no play, so I did, and it now turns more
>freely.
>
>One of the problems in figuring this out is that I mounted the mains 2
>years ago, and I can't remember what the heck I did then. I'm sure I
>read the instructions - which depicted them as containing roller
>bearings, and need more tightening than ball bearings, but I don't
>remember a thing about it. Definitely a case of getting old and losing
>it, I guess.
>
>Anyway, the real culprit may well be me (with a little assistance from
>incorrect drawings), and not the Chinese bearings. However, George at
>the new Matco says they have had problems from others with the Chinese
>bearings supplied by their predecessors, so maybe that's part of the
>problem, too. Who knows?
>
>If any are still interested in changing out their present bearings, give
>Matco a call at (801) 486-7574 and you will find them very helpful
>people. They charged me $7.50 a bearing, so the whole set of six would
>be $45.
>
>Lastly, let me apologize if I have made anyone worry unduly about their
>wheels! I have been reticent to contribute much in the past, because I
>don't feel all that knowledgeable, but I thought I should write about
>this incident.
>Thanks for the helpful advice - and patience!
>
>-Paul
>
>Paul Hartl, N414PZ, 601HDS/Jabiru 3300A, 29.2 hrs, 40 landings
>Flight Simulator 2002/4 Zodiac Website: www.members.cox.net/paulhartl
>Sun Valley, Idaho 83340 208-788-9147
>
>
---------------------------------------------
Paul Mulwitz
32013 NE Dial Road
Camas, WA 98607
---------------------------------------------
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: N414PZ landing incident and Matco bearings follow-up |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: xl <xl@prosody.org>
I bit.........
Like I said, ball bearings are less forgiving of side loads and over
tightening than tapered roller bearings. I replaced my failed front
wheel bearings with tapered roller bearings and feel good about it.
Before I did that, for a few hours, I used a good quality ball bearing
replacement. But when the front wheel touched down at 50 mph I did
not feel confident. So, flame what you will - I won't use ball bearings
on my wheels. (And the mechanics and aircraft designers that I've
discussed this with won't either.) (It was worth the $40 for the tapers.)
As Gary Gower recently wrote 'Remember Aviation doesn't like the "could
work" expression. "Completly sure" is the only way to go.'
Joe E
N633Z @ BFI
271 hours
455 landings, on the original tires
CH601XL, Jabiru 3300, Sensenich wood prop 64x49
homemade mufflers
On Mon, 24 Oc
t 2005, Paul Hartl wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Paul Hartl" <paulhartl@cox.net>
>
> Zenith list,
>
> My actions may have been the primary cause of failure in my right main
> wheel bearing 10 days ago. Ron Lee from this list pointed out that the
> problem could have been over-tightening of the ball bearings, so I
> checked my left main wheel - the one that had not failed and is not yet
> replaced - and it was indeed too tight. I could back off the pressure
> substantially and still have no play, so I did, and it now turns more
> freely.
> ..snip ..snip
> -Paul
> Paul Hartl, N414PZ, 601HDS/Jabiru 3300A, 29.2 hrs, 40 landings
> do not archive
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