Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:19 AM - Installing nose wheel bungee (Craig Payne)
2. 12:34 AM - Re: Re: rivets - are we done yet? (Hunt Malcolm)
3. 01:04 AM - Re: Installing nose wheel bungee (Hunt Malcolm)
4. 01:36 AM - oil pressure fluctuation (Johann G.)
5. 05:28 AM - Re: oil pressure fluctuation (Trevor Page)
6. 05:36 AM - Real Aileron Dimensions (William J. Naumuk)
7. 05:51 AM - Pre-Heating a 601 (Jim Pellien)
8. 06:14 AM - Re: Pre-Heating a 601 (Steve Hulland)
9. 07:24 AM - Re: Re: rivets (Tim & Diane Shankland)
10. 07:35 AM - Re: Pre-Heating a 601 (Larry McFarland)
11. 08:16 AM - Re: Installing nose wheel bungee (JAPhillipsGA@aol.com)
12. 09:44 AM - Re: Installing nose wheel bungee (Al Young)
13. 09:47 AM - Re: Pre-Heating a 601 (Jean-Paul Roy)
14. 12:29 PM - Re: Installing nose wheel bungee (Craig Payne)
15. 01:10 PM - Re: Pre-Heating a 601 (Jim Pellien)
16. 02:24 PM - Re: Pre-Heating a 601 (Craig Payne)
17. 03:09 PM - Re: Pre-Heating a 601 (Larry McFarland)
18. 04:52 PM - Re: Installing nose wheel bungee (Dave Zilz)
19. 05:12 PM - Re: Pre-Heating a 601 (Randy)
20. 05:58 PM - Re: oil pressure fluctuation. (Gary Gower)
21. 06:10 PM - Re: Pre-Heating a 601. (Gary Gower)
22. 06:33 PM - Re: Installing nose wheel bungee (Craig Payne)
23. 08:29 PM - 912S engine installation in 701 (NYTerminat@aol.com)
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| Subject: | Installing nose wheel bungee |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Craig Payne" <craig@craigandjean.com>
Does anyone have any clever ideas or tools for stretching and installing the
nose wheel bungee on an XL?
-- Craig
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: rivets - are we done yet? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Hunt Malcolm" <Malcolm.HUNT@networkrail.co.uk>
Sorry not to have replied earlier but been away on business.
I think a previous response from me on Avex rivets is on the archive but
the following give clear directives from Zenith.
Plan revision 06/02 to 01/03 changed the Avex rivet prefix from 1682 to
1604, Textron the manufacturers advised this was a change of protection
to the steel mandrel. Zenith therefore have precisely specified the
rivets to be used.
In the Heintz Textbook 'Riveted Joints Part 2 of 2', see
www.zenithair.com/kit-data/ht-87-1.htm1 Chris makes it clear that
English manufactured rivets are to be used as those manufactured in New
York and Brazil do not have consistency. All is not lost as Avex now
manufacture in China! and in the Zenair News #147 of March/April 2005
'Memo from Chris' gives details of a test rig and loadings of A4=50kg
(110lb) shear and A5=80kg(175lb) shear. Well worth a look at.
Malcolm Hunt
CH601XL Plans builder in England
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike
Fortunato
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Re: rivets - are we done yet?
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Mike Fortunato <rsq2424@yahoo.com>
Guys,
Am I mistaken, or are the same guys that are choosing to fit their
panel with the latest in glass panel instrumentation, spending untold
hours trying to save half a penny on a rivet? Please, just buy 'em from
ZAC. Ugh!
Happy Thanksgiving to all!
Mike F.
601XL
do not archive
---------------------------------
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Message 3
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| Subject: | Installing nose wheel bungee |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Hunt Malcolm" <Malcolm.HUNT@networkrail.co.uk>
Craig
See latest Photo Assembly Guides (14th November 2005) on the Zenith
website, supplier details given.
Regards
Malcolm Hunt
CH601 Plans builder in England
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Craig Payne
Subject: Zenith-List: Installing nose wheel bungee
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Craig Payne"
<craig@craigandjean.com>
Does anyone have any clever ideas or tools for stretching and installing
the
nose wheel bungee on an XL?
-- Craig
Your attention is drawn to the fact that this email originated from a
source external to Network Rail.
************************************************************************************************
The content of this email (and any attachment) is confidential. It may also be
legally privileged or otherwise protected from disclosure.
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nor may it be copied or disclosed to anyone who is not an original intended
recipient. If you have received this email by mistake please notify us by emailing
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| Subject: | oil pressure fluctuation |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Johann G." <johann@rafpostur.is>
Hello list members.
I have been experiencing some oil pressure fluctuation. I found a
possible solution to the problem which is to put a washer under the
spring of the bypass valve. Can someone help me with the location of
that valve? Is it in the oil pump on the bottom?
There is a spring in the parts catalog from CPS where they show a
picture of the pump from Rotax. It is #3 and the nut or cap is marked #
5. Can this be the cap nut that needs a washer?
Thanks in advance,
Johann G.
Iceland.
Z701 27 hrs flying.
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: oil pressure fluctuation |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Trevor Page <webmaster@upac.ca>
Johann, the location of the pressure spring is under the oil pump
just before the oil filter. There is a bolt head there.
Trev Page
C-IDUS 601HD R912
On Nov 25, 2005, at 4:34 AM, Johann G. wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Johann G." <johann@rafpostur.is>
>
> Hello list members.
>
> I have been experiencing some oil pressure fluctuation. I found a
> possible solution to the problem which is to put a washer under the
> spring of the bypass valve. Can someone help me with the location of
> that valve? Is it in the oil pump on the bottom?
> There is a spring in the parts catalog from CPS where they show a
> picture of the pump from Rotax. It is #3 and the nut or cap is
> marked #
> 5. Can this be the cap nut that needs a washer?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Johann G.
> Iceland.
> Z701 27 hrs flying.
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Real Aileron Dimensions |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "William J. Naumuk" <billn@velocity.net>
All-
It took me a month to the day to figure out the dimensions you need to build
an HDS aileron, since the plans are a total mess. Zenith was no help- they just
kept recommending that I buy factory parts. This was after my original kit
parts didn't work! Everyone should take the time to read this posting, to give
you an idea of how patient and analytical you should be in order to give yourself
the best chance at successfully completing your project.
If I weren't absolutely sure of my findings, I wouldn't throw myself to the
wolves. There is no grey area- if you don't believe me, try building a good aileron
to the rev 4 prints! No updates are offered at this time.
Start with the skin blank. There are 3 different possible layouts, two on 6SV-3
and one on 6-V-10. 6SV-3-1, with one change, will give you the lightest skin
while meeting all of the other dimensional requirements. Instead of a 485mm
DL, you want to go with 475mm. If you don't (Which was the way I went) you wind
up with a 30mm Z spar flange instead of the required 20mm. I wasn't going
to spend $125 in materials and subcontractor's fees to save a couple of ounces
extra weight. I lucked out here.
Second, the Construction Manual is actually correct for once. To set the 11
deg root rib (And eventually, main rib) angles, measure in 38mm from the I/B
Z spar edge instead of the 43mm shown on 6SV-3 and 6-V-10. This is where double
checking each assembly with it's mating part will save you. Something didn't
look right, and my protractor proved it wasn't. All this cost me was some alcohol
and the time it took to remove the 43mm lines and replace them with the 38mm
lines.
Finally, the tip rib. I laid out the print full size in AutoCad, cut the rib
forms on my table saw, and fabricated a rib that was well within 2mm of plan
dimensions. It was almost 3/4" short of meeting the trailing edge! I triple checked
everything, and had extensive correspondence with Nick. No help. So I went
ahead and very carefully laid out, cut and filed the O/B end, then made a
cardboard tracing of the opening. Then I transferred the tracing to AutoCad using
just the vertices for the main dimensions and adding the rivet flanges. The
plans call for a tip rib 160mm vertically from the hypotenuse, 95mm opposite,
by 140mm at the adjacent. I wound up with 163mm x100mm x
160mm. The couple of mm difference in the hypotenuse and the opposite are no big
deal, but the 20mm difference in the adjacent was the culprit. 20mm .787",
or roughly 3/4".
Better archive this one in case there are still some HDS builders out there.
Like the sarge on Hill Street Blues used to say, "Be careful out there".
Bill
Message 7
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| Subject: | Pre-Heating a 601 |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jim Pellien" <jim@pellien.com>
Question: What have you found to be the best way to pre-heat your 601 in
winter?
Jim Pellien
Mid-Atlantic Sports Planes
The Mid-Atlantic Region of SportsPlanes.com
www.MASPL.com
703-313-4818
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Pre-Heating a 601 |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Steve Hulland <marinegunner@gmail.com>
Jim,
Move to a climate that does not require pre-heating or snow. Works all the
time and is cheap.
Semper Fi,
Steve H
DO NOT ARCHIEVE
Message 9
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: Tim & Diane Shankland <tshank@megsinet.net>
Paul,
to answer your question about the specifications on the rivets used ,
this is from the Avidel Technical data sheet.
part number 1682-0412 1/8 grip range .093-.250 Single Shear 155
lb Ultimate Tensile 205 lb.
part number 1682-0514 5/32 grip range .109-.312 Single Shear 225
lb. Ultimate Tensile 300 lb.
The wild card here is the head, all these specifications are with the
counter sunk head from the factory. There has been much discussion on
the list as to the effect of modifying the head such as we do. Whether
it strengthens or weakens the riveted joint? The fact that there is no
specification as to the exact profile of the formed dome head means that
there is a great variation in head shapes made by the various builders
modifying their rivet pullers and thus a potential great variation in
pull strengths. Since Zodiacs are not falling from the sky with their
skins unzipping at the rivet lines would indicate that there is
considerable margin in the design. As for those "special rivets" from
Zenith from that "special" factory in England the distributor I buy my
rivets form confirmed that all rivet production is now in China.
Tim Shankland
Paul Mulwitz wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: Paul Mulwitz <p.mulwitz@worldnet.att.net>
>
>I am a kit builder, so rivet source is not an issue for me.
>
>However, I understand the Avex rivets Zenith uses are selected for
>superior strength in order to make them "Aircraft Grade" quality. I
>don't know if anyone has asked Zenith exactly what this means in
>terms of specifications, but I believe this selection is necessary to
>really have an airworthy plane. It is also required to get your
>plane built to the designer's assumptions. For me, this makes the
>choice a no-brainer.
>
>Paul
>XL wings
>
>At 04:07 AM 11/23/2005, you wrote:
>
>
>>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "John" <jlifer@bellsouth.net>
>>
>>Well, I guess I'm a bit different from some of you guys. (and in a
>>mood I guess to pi** off some of you :)
>>I've been mainly scratch building and when I've needed rivets, I've
>>simply called up Zenith. Yes, they are much higher in price that
>>some other sources, yes, I'm a scrounger for a LOT of things, but I
>>kind of think of this as allowing them to make a bit of money off of
>>me to compensate them for questions I've asked (and will be
>>asking). Kind of a commission. Ok, not really that much money, but
>>I do get the right rivets, not something a clerk drags up from the
>>back of the store that kind of looks like my rivet. And I don't
>>spend extra time looking when I could be working on pulling a few of
>>the rivets. Asbestos longjohns on!
>>Have a nice Thanksgiving!
>>John
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>---------------------------------------------
>Paul Mulwitz
>32013 NE Dial Road
>Camas, WA 98607
>---------------------------------------------
>
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Pre-Heating a 601 |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Larry McFarland <larrymc@qconline.com>
Jim,
I use a "milk house heater" to keep the engine comfortably warm. It
doesn't generate too much
heat and shuts itself off when temps get above freezing. See link
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/completion/full/heatertocowl.gif
Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
Jim Pellien wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jim Pellien" <jim@pellien.com>
>
>Question: What have you found to be the best way to pre-heat your 601 in
>winter?
>
>
>Jim Pellien
>
>Mid-Atlantic Sports Planes
>
>The Mid-Atlantic Region of SportsPlanes.com
>
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Installing nose wheel bungee |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: JAPhillipsGA@aol.com
Craig, yes and no. Is your engine mounted? If not make a tool from a steel
pipe where you grind out the lip into an oval (football shape) and pry it up and
on the forward shaft. With the weight of the engine all I had to do was take
off the round retaining plate at the top of the gear shaft, jack up the front
of the plane to lower the gear shaft and it slipped over the forward shaft.
Then I lowered the front of the plane slowly letting the engine weight stretch
the cord and guided the top of the gear shaft through the green plastic bushing
plate and the firewall top cross beam. Was not difficult job at all. Best
luck, Bill
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Installing nose wheel bungee |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Al Young" <armyret@one-eleven.net>
Craig- A 1.5" pipe (or any diameter that will fit over the front tube)
about 18 " or more long. hook thru the bungee and hook over the tube. lift
and slide the bungeee off the pipe and onto the tube. Takes all of 15
seconds.
Regards
Al Young
601XL
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Pre-Heating a 601 |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jean-Paul Roy" <jean-paul.roy4@tlb.sympatico.ca>
Larry, it's a pretty smart idea.
Thanks
Jean-Paul
DO NOT ARCHIVE
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry McFarland" <larrymc@qconline.com>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Pre-Heating a 601
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Larry McFarland <larrymc@qconline.com>
>
> Jim,
> I use a "milk house heater" to keep the engine comfortably warm. It
> doesn't generate too much
> heat and shuts itself off when temps get above freezing. See link
> http://www.macsmachine.com/images/completion/full/heatertocowl.gif
>
> Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
>
> Jim Pellien wrote:
>
> >--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jim Pellien" <jim@pellien.com>
> >
> >Question: What have you found to be the best way to pre-heat your 601 in
> >winter?
> >
> >
> >Jim Pellien
> >
> >Mid-Atlantic Sports Planes
> >
> >The Mid-Atlantic Region of SportsPlanes.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 14
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Received-SPF: none (mgr1.xmission.com: 166.70.39.121 is neither permitted nor denied
by domain of craigandjean.com) client-ip=166.70.39.121; envelope-from=craig@craigandjean.com;
helo=TheTCCraig;
| Subject: | Installing nose wheel bungee |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Craig Payne" <craig@craigandjean.com>
Thanks for all the replies on mounting the bungee.
-- Craig
Message 15
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| Subject: | Pre-Heating a 601 |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jim Pellien" <jim@pellien.com>
Larry,
My aircraft is not hangered. Looks like a good pre-heat setup for aircraft
that are hangered. However, I don't think I could leave a heater like that
operating outside in snow and rain???
Thanks for the suggestion.
Jim
Jim Pellien
Mid-Atlantic Sports Planes
The Mid-Atlantic Region of SportsPlanes.com
www.MASPL.com
703-313-4818
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry McFarland
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Pre-Heating a 601
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Larry McFarland <larrymc@qconline.com>
Jim,
I use a "milk house heater" to keep the engine comfortably warm. It
doesn't generate too much
heat and shuts itself off when temps get above freezing. See link
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/completion/full/heatertocowl.gif
Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
Jim Pellien wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jim Pellien" <jim@pellien.com>
>
>Question: What have you found to be the best way to pre-heat your 601 in
>winter?
>
>
>Jim Pellien
>
>Mid-Atlantic Sports Planes
>
>The Mid-Atlantic Region of SportsPlanes.com
>
>
>
>
Message 16
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by domain of craigandjean.com) client-ip=166.70.39.121; envelope-from=craig@craigandjean.com;
helo=TheTCCraig;
| Subject: | Pre-Heating a 601 |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Craig Payne" <craig@craigandjean.com>
What about an engine block heater? I don't know if your plane is parked
close enough to an electrical outlet. I found these on Aircraft Spruce that
adhere to the oil pan:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/ezheat.php
But if you have a Rotax I don't think these will work as the Rotax has a dry
oil sump.
A related product is a battery blanket (also electrical). Warms your battery
for more cranking power.
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/tf-Browse/s-10101/Pr-p_Product.CA
TENTRY_ID:2006128/showCustom-0/p-2006128/N-111+10214+600010588/c-10114/TID-8
014524
If you are not near a source of electrical power all I can suggest is a
small radiant heater. There are some that are small enough to run off of a
propane torch bottle. But that would mean that you would have to remove some
cowling to point the heat at the block.
http://www.rei.com/online/store/ProductDisplay?storeId=8000&catalogId=400000
08000&productId=6077481&parent_category_rn=4500640&vcat=REI_SEARCH
-- Craig
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Pellien
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Pre-Heating a 601
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jim Pellien" <jim@pellien.com>
Larry,
My aircraft is not hangered. Looks like a good pre-heat setup for aircraft
that are hangered. However, I don't think I could leave a heater like that
operating outside in snow and rain???
Thanks for the suggestion.
Jim
Jim Pellien
Mid-Atlantic Sports Planes
The Mid-Atlantic Region of SportsPlanes.com www.MASPL.com
703-313-4818
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry McFarland
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Pre-Heating a 601
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Larry McFarland
--> <larrymc@qconline.com>
Jim,
I use a "milk house heater" to keep the engine comfortably warm. It doesn't
generate too much heat and shuts itself off when temps get above freezing.
See link http://www.macsmachine.com/images/completion/full/heatertocowl.gif
Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
Jim Pellien wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jim Pellien" <jim@pellien.com>
>
>Question: What have you found to be the best way to pre-heat your 601
>in winter?
>
>
>Jim Pellien
>
>Mid-Atlantic Sports Planes
>
>The Mid-Atlantic Region of SportsPlanes.com
>
>
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Pre-Heating a 601 |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Larry McFarland <larrymc@qconline.com>
Jim,
If you've got access to electricity, it'd be a minor matter to make a
weatherproof shell for keeping wet and wind out of the
heater that would reach up a little further under the cowl. It would
need a set of wheels 2-foot ground extensions for stability
and a weather proof cord all to keep wetness out but it could be done.
Nice thing about this type of heater is that if it gets
kicked over it shuts off too. If the winds get nasty, you could even
stake it down. Then you'd have to plug up your cowl but
for one screened opening on the bottom to keep the field mice out of it.
Don't give up on it.
I think you could do it, if you have a plug-in somewhere close by.
Larry
Jim Pellien wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jim Pellien" <jim@pellien.com>
>
>Larry,
>
>My aircraft is not hangered. Looks like a good pre-heat setup for aircraft
>that are hangered. However, I don't think I could leave a heater like that
>operating outside in snow and rain???
>
>Thanks for the suggestion.
>
>Jim
>
>Jim Pellien
>Mid-Atlantic Sports Planes
>The Mid-Atlantic Region of SportsPlanes.com
>www.MASPL.com
>703-313-4818
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry McFarland
>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Pre-Heating a 601
>
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: Larry McFarland <larrymc@qconline.com>
>
>Jim,
>I use a "milk house heater" to keep the engine comfortably warm. It
>doesn't generate too much
>heat and shuts itself off when temps get above freezing. See link
>http://www.macsmachine.com/images/completion/full/heatertocowl.gif
>
>Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
>
>Jim Pellien wrote:
>
>
>
>>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jim Pellien" <jim@pellien.com>
>>
>>Question: What have you found to be the best way to pre-heat your 601 in
>>winter?
>>
>>
>>Jim Pellien
>>
>>Mid-Atlantic Sports Planes
>>
>>The Mid-Atlantic Region of SportsPlanes.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Installing nose wheel bungee |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave Zilz" <z4t143@hotmail.com>
I'm not sure how the XL nose strut works, but I'll explain how I did it on
our 801. I used the tire iron from our car jack as a lever. I got the
bungee installed on the aft hook and wrapped around in prep for stretching
onto the fwd post. Since that fwd post is an open tube, I placed the tire
iron through the end of the bungee and inserted it into the open tube. This
arrangement allowed me to lift the tire iron and stretch the bungee until it
was on the edge of the fwd post. From that condition, it didn't take much
to persuade the bungee onto the post. Sounds simple now, but I do recall
wrestling with it for a bit. Be careful! There is alot of energy stored in
that stretched bungee! Hope that helps!
Dave Zilz
St. Peters MO
z4t143@hotmail.com
www.geocities.com/z4t143/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Craig Payne" <craig@craigandjean.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: Installing nose wheel bungee
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Craig Payne" <craig@craigandjean.com>
>
> Does anyone have any clever ideas or tools for stretching and installing
> the
> nose wheel bungee on an XL?
>
> -- Craig
>
>
>
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Re: Pre-Heating a 601 |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Randy" <rpf@wi.rr.com>
Jim,
I used a block heater system, from www.reiffpreheat.com that you epoxy to
the bottom of the block and a cylinder band heater that I put around the oil
tank. Put a blanket, or something, over the cowling to cover up the air
inlets and the system works very well.
Randy
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Pellien" <jim@pellien.com>
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Pre-Heating a 601
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jim Pellien" <jim@pellien.com>
>
> Larry,
>
> My aircraft is not hangered. Looks like a good pre-heat setup for
> aircraft
> that are hangered. However, I don't think I could leave a heater like
> that
> operating outside in snow and rain???
>
> Thanks for the suggestion.
>
> Jim
>
> Jim Pellien
> Mid-Atlantic Sports Planes
> The Mid-Atlantic Region of SportsPlanes.com
> www.MASPL.com
> 703-313-4818
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry
> McFarland
> To: zenith-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Pre-Heating a 601
>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Larry McFarland <larrymc@qconline.com>
>
> Jim,
> I use a "milk house heater" to keep the engine comfortably warm. It
> doesn't generate too much
> heat and shuts itself off when temps get above freezing. See link
> http://www.macsmachine.com/images/completion/full/heatertocowl.gif
>
> Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
>
> Jim Pellien wrote:
>
>>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jim Pellien" <jim@pellien.com>
>>
>>Question: What have you found to be the best way to pre-heat your 601 in
>>winter?
>>
>>
>>Jim Pellien
>>
>>Mid-Atlantic Sports Planes
>>
>>The Mid-Atlantic Region of SportsPlanes.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Re: oil pressure fluctuation. |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Gary Gower <ggower_99@yahoo.com>
Hello Johann,
Is the oil pressure electric? I will first check the pressure with a phisical
oil instrument, carefully installed temporary, preferable if possible outside
the cabin...
Probably the fluctuation could be from a faulty conection to a faulty sender
or instrument.
In my case I will first be sure that the instrument is working OK before moving
forward with the engine...
Saludos
Gary Gower.
Trevor Page <webmaster@upac.ca> wrote:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Trevor Page
Johann, the location of the pressure spring is under the oil pump
just before the oil filter. There is a bolt head there.
Trev Page
C-IDUS 601HD R912
On Nov 25, 2005, at 4:34 AM, Johann G. wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Johann G."
>
> Hello list members.
>
> I have been experiencing some oil pressure fluctuation. I found a
> possible solution to the problem which is to put a washer under the
> spring of the bypass valve. Can someone help me with the location of
> that valve? Is it in the oil pump on the bottom?
> There is a spring in the parts catalog from CPS where they show a
> picture of the pump from Rotax. It is #3 and the nut or cap is
> marked #
> 5. Can this be the cap nut that needs a washer?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Johann G.
> Iceland.
> Z701 27 hrs flying.
>
>
---------------------------------
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Re: Pre-Heating a 601. |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Gary Gower <ggower_99@yahoo.com>
Hello Larry,
I liked you idea since last year...
This is a Off hands point of view, for shure here we dont need a heater for
the engine,
But how about installing another hose from the engine cowling the the inlet
of the heater... this air circulating could lower the use of the heater. Less
electricity used...
Well, probably will not be worth it...
Saludos
Gary Gower.
Larry McFarland <larrymc@qconline.com> wrote:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Larry McFarland
Jim,
I use a "milk house heater" to keep the engine comfortably warm. It
doesn't generate too much
heat and shuts itself off when temps get above freezing. See link
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/completion/full/heatertocowl.gif
Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
Jim Pellien wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jim Pellien"
>
>Question: What have you found to be the best way to pre-heat your 601 in
>winter?
>
>
>Jim Pellien
>
>Mid-Atlantic Sports Planes
>
>The Mid-Atlantic Region of SportsPlanes.com
>
>
>
>
---------------------------------
Message 22
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|
Received-SPF: none (mgr1.xmission.com: 166.70.39.121 is neither permitted nor denied
by domain of craigandjean.com) client-ip=166.70.39.121; envelope-from=craig@craigandjean.com;
helo=TheTCCraig;
| Subject: | Installing nose wheel bungee |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Craig Payne" <craig@craigandjean.com>
Thanks! I did a variation on your idea by using a pipe over the outside of
the stub (as suggested in two responses). I made a 45 degree cut at the end
of a piece of conduit that was about 18" long. The longer part of the cut
will hook over the top of the stub even when angled down at 45 degrees to
catch the end of the bungee. Then you just raise the far end of the pipe
while pushing the bungee along the pipe towards the stub. Cutting the end of
the pipe or typing up this description took longer than getting the bungee
on.
-- Craig
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Zilz
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Installing nose wheel bungee
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave Zilz" <z4t143@hotmail.com>
I'm not sure how the XL nose strut works, but I'll explain how I did it on
our 801. I used the tire iron from our car jack as a lever. I got the
bungee installed on the aft hook and wrapped around in prep for stretching
onto the fwd post. Since that fwd post is an open tube, I placed the tire
iron through the end of the bungee and inserted it into the open tube. This
arrangement allowed me to lift the tire iron and stretch the bungee until it
was on the edge of the fwd post. From that condition, it didn't take much
to persuade the bungee onto the post. Sounds simple now, but I do recall
wrestling with it for a bit. Be careful! There is alot of energy stored in
that stretched bungee! Hope that helps!
Dave Zilz
St. Peters MO
z4t143@hotmail.com
www.geocities.com/z4t143/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Craig Payne" <craig@craigandjean.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: Installing nose wheel bungee
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Craig Payne" <craig@craigandjean.com>
>
> Does anyone have any clever ideas or tools for stretching and installing
> the
> nose wheel bungee on an XL?
>
> -- Craig
>
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | 912S engine installation in 701 |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: NYTerminat@aol.com
List
I am installing a 912S in a CH701 and have a question on the coolant line
routing. I have the Firewall Forward package from Skyshops ( Czech Works) new
style cowl. The drawing 7-E-13Z shows two different hose routing connections for
the 912 and the 912S. The 912 has the bottom of the radiator connecting to the
water pump and the 912S the bottom of the radiator connects to the top
expansion tank. Why would there be a difference? Does it matter which side connects
to the bottom of the radiator?
One of the problems I am having is that the coolant hose that was supplied
has very little flexibility to bend without kinking. It almost has no ability to
bend. It would be better to route them as the 912 shows .Has anyone had this
problem? Is there anyone that has installed the newer style cowl on a 701 with
the 912S? If there is could you contact me as I have some other
questions/concerns.
I have seen that blue coolant hose on other peoples planes, where do I get
that and does it bend well? The hose that I have is black, it is called Semperit
FKD Kuhlwasser/cooling water 25x3.5. On the photo's that I got from Skyshops
they show short pieces of hose connecting to aluminum preformed pipes. All I
got was a length of hose.
I look forward to hearing from you guys
Thanks
Bob Spudis
Ch-701/912S frustrated
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