Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:52 AM - Re: Unloading Kit/Crate from shipper (TH-SR)
2. 02:44 AM - Re: Electrical Connections (Bryan Martin)
3. 02:54 AM - Re: Unloading Kit/Crate from shipper (David Johnson)
4. 04:31 AM - Re: Re: Electrical Connections (Bob Unternaehrer)
5. 05:37 AM - Unloading Kit/Crate from shipper (Jim Frisby)
6. 06:03 AM - Unloading Kit/Crate from shipper (TOMGILES@aol.com)
7. 08:09 AM - Re: Unloading Kit/Crate from shipper (Grant Corriveau)
8. 08:25 AM - Re: 601xl canopy lock (Weston, Jim)
9. 08:42 AM - Re: Electrical Connections (Bill Cardell)
10. 09:21 AM - Re: Unloading Kit/Crate from shipper ()
11. 09:33 AM - (john butterfield)
12. 10:16 AM - Re: Battery for Electrical Testing (Phil Maxson)
13. 10:44 AM - Re: Shop Battery (Paul Mulwitz)
14. 12:08 PM - Re: (Cleone Markwell)
15. 02:53 PM - Re: Re: Battery for Electrical Testing (kevinbonds)
16. 03:44 PM - Re: (armyret@one-eleven.net)
17. 04:20 PM - Re: Electrical Connections (Crvsecretary@aol.com)
18. 04:40 PM - Re: Electrical Connections (Bill Cardell)
19. 04:45 PM - Re: (no subject) (NYTerminat@aol.com)
20. 05:00 PM - Re: (ROBERT SCEPPA)
21. 05:21 PM - Re: 601xl canopy lock (Weston, Jim)
22. 05:40 PM - Re: Re: Battery for Electrical Testing (Brandon Tucker)
23. 06:06 PM - Question on drawing 7H5 (Rory Davis)
24. 10:47 PM - Re: Re: Battery for Electrical Testing (Craig Payne)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Unloading Kit/Crate from shipper |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "TH-SR" <701stol@gmail.com>
How about a local tilt back tow truck? They could pull the box gracefully off of
the carriers truck, reposition in front of your shop door, tilt the deck and
slide it onto your shop floor. I have a glass back, and have done this successfully
more than once. Just a thought...
--------
Todd
CH701
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=3554#3554
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Electrical Connections |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Bryan Martin <bryanmmartin@comcast.net>
I used crimp on butt splice connectors. I found the size I needed at Radio
Shack. I would not recommend using tape to cover the splice. Use heat shrink
instead. It would also be a good idea to stagger the splices so they dont
all stack up in the same spot. Then you can cover the entire splice area
with another piece of heat shrink. Leave a loop of wire at the splice site
so that in the unlikely event that you ever have to replace the servo,
you'll have enough wire available for the new splices after you cut off the
old ones.
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL, Stratus Subaru.
do not archive.
on 1/12/06 10:04 PM, Charles Kyle at Phoenix3@cox.net wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Charles Kyle" <Phoenix3@cox.net>
>
> Hi,
>
> I am ready to connect the five wires of my Ray Allen trim servo to the
> five wire cable which is routed to the control/trim indicator on the 701
> panel. Aircraft Spruce says that the conductor material is 26 gauge
> silver plated wire. I was planning to solder with lead free solder and
> then insulate with electrical tape. Is this sufficient? If not, what
> is a better way to go? Thanks.
>
> Chuck Kyle
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Unloading Kit/Crate from shipper |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "David Johnson" <david_a_g_johnson@btinternet.com>
I had the same problem - we live 'out in the sticks', so it was just my wife
and myself, with the help of the driver!
I invested in a garage crane - not expensive and I'll need it to install the
engine - and a handful of broom handles from the local hardware store - make
perfect (and cheap!) rollers.
The truck had a tail-hoist, so we rolled the box out until it was sticking
out beyond the edge of the hoist, hooked up the crane to support the end,
then rolled the box and cane back until the other end was supported by the
tail-hoist, then lowered both ends together.
After that it only needed the rollers and an appropriate amount of cussing
(not from me, of course!) and it was in the garage.
Incidentally, after removing the lid and inventorying the kit, I got 4
kitchen worktops 6ft X 2ft and fixed these upside down on the top of the
box - made a very solid workbench, with plenty of storage underneath.
Dave Johnson
Tail and wings signed off - working on the fuselage
> >
> >--> Zenith-List message posted by: MillrML@aol.com
> >
> >Mike Miller/601XL-3300/Waiting for Kit #6195 (Feb. delivery)
> >Rudder is built, sitting on hands-waiting.
> >
> >Have searched old messages for info on how people get this 800# box off
> >the
> >shipper's truck and into their shop. All 8 reply's are from 2002, so
> >thought
> >I'd ask again for any new feedback on this subject. Shipper's
terminal's
> >are 2 hours from me North or South, so I'm planning on them bringing the
> >kit to
> >house. They can back their truck up to my shop, but how do I get box
off
> >truck?
> <<SNIP>>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Electrical Connections |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bob Unternaehrer" <shilocom@mcmsys.com>
My heat gun came with this type of deflector, but it was much smaller. More
like a 1 to 1 1/2" diameter and width so you can get to wires in a tighter
place. I still like crimp sleeves and knife connectors. Bob U.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Lendon" <rlendon@comcast.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 11:42 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Electrical Connections
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Ron Lendon" <rlendon@comcast.net>
>
> Another idea for the heat gun. Fabricate a deflector, imagine a U shape
of about 3" dia and 3" wide of sheetmetal attached to the nozzle of the heat
gun. This will dam the air from the gun so you don't have to rotate the
wire while heat shrinking. See attached picture.
>
> --------
> Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
> Corvair Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=3548#3548
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/heat_shrink_nozzle_148.bmp
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Unloading Kit/Crate from shipper |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jim Frisby" <n801za@hotmail.com>
I suggest you just have the truck back a little ways into your garage or
shop. Push the crate back off the truck until it will tip down and touch
the floor. Drive the truck forward until most of the crate is off the
truck, then block up the high end of the crate. There should only be 400#
of weight on the truck at that point. Hold the crate from sliding and move
the truck out. A floor jack or 3 or 4 guys can take the weight off while
you put smaller blocks under it. Eventually it will be close enough to the
floor that you can just set it down.
Jim Frisby
Alaska
Message 6
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| Subject: | Unloading Kit/Crate from shipper |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: TOMGILES@aol.com
If you are close enough or plan some trips near the factory you can pick it
up there. I picked up my 601HDS in my Subaru stationwagon. It took 3 trips
but was no problem. Saved shipping charges also. Another possibility would
be to load it on a rental truck and drive home. These possibilities are
distance dependent.
Message 7
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| Subject: | Unloading Kit/Crate from shipper |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Grant Corriveau <grantc@ca.inter.net>
> How about a local tilt back tow truck? They could pull the box gracefully
> off of the carriers truck, reposition in front of your shop door, tilt the
> deck and slide it onto your shop floor. I have a glass back, and have done
> this successfully more than once. Just a thought...
I've used this kind of tow truck several times to move the finished product
to the airport and back, and I agree that should work out well enough if you
get a knowledable, cooperative driver operating the tilt-bed and winch.
When I originally recieved my kit in the box, we picked it up in a 'cube
van' which has a bed height similar to a pickup truck - i.e. not too high.
I used the help of four or five friends, and some long 2by4s or 2by6s? to
slide the box off the truck onto the driveway. This was the first time I'd
tried this technique and I was surprised how well it worked. The 2by?s were
about 10 to 12 feet long. They are inserted under the end of the crate and
then the crate is slid slowly along them until it gently 'overbalances' out
of the truck and tips down on the lumber. The lumber bends significantly,
but controls the rate at which the crate tips over and then slides down to
the ground. We mainly had to balance the crate as the boards all flex a
little unequally.
Once the weight of one end of the crate is on the ground, it was easy to
slide it the rest of the way out. Then we used some steel pipes as rollers
to ease the crate into the garage, where I unloaded/inventoried, the
contents.
Your results may differ! ;-)
All the best for whatever method you decide on,
--
Grant Corriveau
C-GHTF / HDS / CAM100
Message 8
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| Subject: | 601xl canopy lock |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Weston, Jim" <Jim.Weston@delta.com>
I worked with Keenan Sunscreens several years ago. They have the
pattern and can make a canopy cover for the 601s. Mine came out great;
even satin lined to keep from scratching the lexan. Just another
option.
Jim Weston
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry
McFarland
Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 10:14 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: 601xl canopy lock
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Larry McFarland
--> <larrymc@qconline.com>
Bill,
The canopy cover is from Bruce's Custom Covers, 989 E California Avenue,
Sunnyvale, CA 94085.
The Tech Sheet describes it as ZENITH MODEL 601 Seen at
www.bruce@aircraftcovers.com Price was $350, but worth it. It comes
with your N-number on each side so that it too doesn't get legs.
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/canopy/full/canopycover1.gif
It is a nice fit and comes with a tote bag for stowage.
Larry McFarland
JAPhillipsGA@aol.com wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: JAPhillipsGA@aol.com
>
>Larry, that is a really good idea. Do recall where you bought it and
>which model fit the XL. Right now I use an old Bart Simpson bed sheet
>of my son's from
>15 years ago to cover the canopy to avoid dust and bird crap. Thanks,
>Bill
>
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Electrical Connections |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bill Cardell" <Bill@flyinmiata.com>
You can combine the best of both ideas with heat shrinkable butt
connectors. Del City has them, I'm sure other places do, too. They also
have some dielectric goo in them to seal the connection.
TurboDog's Dad
Bill Cardell
www.flyinmiata.com
1-800-FLY-MX5S
970-242-3800
Message 10
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| Subject: | Unloading Kit/Crate from shipper |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: <pstafford@attglobal.net>
Mike,
Paul is right, a lift gate won't work. Get some 1/2" steel pipe and have
the freight company place the crate on 3 or 4 sections of pipe inside the
trailer using their fork lifts. (I rented a low trailer from U-Haul - make
sure that you get one with a wide enough tailgate). Secure the crate VERY
WELL to get it home. Then using some more pipe rollers use 2x4's or some
other handy pry bars to roll it off of the trailer and maneuver it into
place. This is how I did it, and it worked very well. Make sure you get
credit for not using the lift gate, and having to pick up at their terminal!
Pat Stafford
601 XL Jabiru 3300 99% done!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Hurwitz
Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 1:14 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Unloading Kit/Crate from shipper
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Paul Hurwitz <p.mulwitz@worldnet.att.net>
Hi Mike,
'fraid a lift gate won't help - the crate is too big.
Some folks consider just shoving the box off the truck, but some
others think this is extreme. I went to the freight terminal with a
U-haul and then pulled the crate off the U-haul with my little
tractor (Kubota - small but a lot of heart and a three cylinder diesel
engine).
I like your idea of a ramp of some sort, but that doesn't solve all
the issues. You still need to figure how to move the 800 pound box
to the ramp and then from the ramp to your storage location.
I wonder if there are some equipment movers in your area. They are
experts on this sort of thing.
Good luck,
Paul
XL wings
do not archive
>Have searched old messages for info on how people get this 800# box off
the
>shipper's truck and into their shop. All 8 reply's are from
>2002, so thought
>I'd ask again for any new feedback on this subject. Shipper's terminal's
>are 2 hours from me North or South, so I'm planning on
>them bringing the kit to
>house. They can back their truck up to my shop, but how do I get box off
>truck?
>
---------------------------------------------
Paul Hurwitz
32013 NE Dial Road
Camas, WA 98607
---------------------------------------------
Message 11
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: john butterfield <jdbutterfield@yahoo.com>
hi list
starting to put together my electrical system. when
testing the lights and other electrical componets,
what should i use as a power source. i was thinking
of buying my aircraft battery now and using it until i
am ready to put it in the aircraft. will this damage
it and or is it powerful enough for testing purposes.
i can recharge it anytime but perhaps using it for
testing is a bad idea any recommendations would be
helpful. thanks in advance
john butterfield
601xl, corvair
Message 12
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| Subject: | RE: Battery for Electrical Testing |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Phil Maxson" <pmaxpmax@hotmail.com>
I used my lawnmower battery.
Phil Maxson
601XL/Corvair
Northwest New Jersey
>From: john butterfield <jdbutterfield@yahoo.com>
>
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: john butterfield
><jdbutterfield@yahoo.com>
>
>hi list
>
>starting to put together my electrical system. when
>testing the lights and other electrical componets,
>what should i use as a power source. i was thinking
>of buying my aircraft battery now and using it until i
>am ready to put it in the aircraft. will this damage
>it and or is it powerful enough for testing purposes.
>i can recharge it anytime but perhaps using it for
>testing is a bad idea any recommendations would be
>helpful. thanks in advance
>john butterfield
>601xl, corvair
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Shop Battery |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Paul Mulwitz <p.mulwitz@worldnet.att.net>
Hi John,
I went to a large auto battery discount place and bought a "Deep
Discharge" battery for use in my shop. This is designed to be
completely discharged, unlike normal batteries which can be damaged
by total discharge. This sort of battery is commonly used in
equipment like golf carts. I think it cost me around $30.
I mounted the battery on a little wall shelf. I also installed a
switch and volt meter, but this part is clearly optional. (The switch
disconnects the volt meter so it doesn't slowly discharge the
battery.) The last piece of equipment is a decent battery charger.
With all this in place, I can use various jumper cables and similar
contraptions to power all sorts of things. Testing 12 volt equipment
like strobe and navigation lights was a natural. I also use this as
a power supply for nichrome wire to cut styrofoam using a little
table built for that purpose. This one little part of my shop gets a
lot of use.
Good luck,
Paul
XL wings
>hi list
>
>starting to put together my electrical system. when
>testing the lights and other electrical componets,
>what should i use as a power source. i was thinking
>of buying my aircraft battery now and using it until i
>am ready to put it in the aircraft. will this damage
>it and or is it powerful enough for testing purposes.
>i can recharge it anytime but perhaps using it for
>testing is a bad idea any recommendations would be
>helpful. thanks in advance
>john butterfield
>601xl, corvair
>
Message 14
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: Cleone Markwell <cleone@rr1.net>
At 11:32 AM 1/13/06, you wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: john butterfield <jdbutterfield@yahoo.com>
John, I don't see any problem with using the aircraft battery for testing
purposes. I would however, always disconnect the grounding on the battery
until you were ready to make a test and I always have an ampere meter in
series with the battery so that I can tell which way the current is going
and just how much. Most circuits won't really draw much current and on a
+ or - 60 Amp. meter won't show any current which is ok as long as the
light or radio works. You can just use a multimeter (ohm meter) on a
suitable scale to check the circuits. On the other hand I know that there
are lots of people who don't ever use electrical circuits and since you ask
the question I expect it would be a good idea to have some help from a
tinkterer who knows all of the rules of electricity. Remember to keep one
hand in your pocket when in a high voltage area. Best wishes. Cleone
>hi list
>
>starting to put together my electrical system. when
>testing the lights and other electrical componets,
>what should i use as a power source. i was thinking
>of buying my aircraft battery now and using it until i
>am ready to put it in the aircraft. will this damage
>it and or is it powerful enough for testing purposes.
>i can recharge it anytime but perhaps using it for
>testing is a bad idea any recommendations would be
>helpful. thanks in advance
>john butterfield
>601xl, corvair
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | RE: Battery for Electrical Testing |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "kevinbonds" <kevinbonds@comcast.net>
Tony Bengelis suggests using a battery charger in "SportPlane Construction
Techniques" on page 162 to test flap actuators.
Kevin Bonds
Nashville TN
601XL Corvair powered; Plans building.
Empennage done; working on wings and engine.
http://home.comcast.net/~kevinbonds
do not archive DO NOT ARCHIVE
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phil Maxson
Sent: Friday, January 13, 2006 12:15 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: RE: Battery for Electrical Testing
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Phil Maxson" <pmaxpmax@hotmail.com>
I used my lawnmower battery.
Phil Maxson
601XL/Corvair
Northwest New Jersey
>From: john butterfield <jdbutterfield@yahoo.com>
>
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: john butterfield
><jdbutterfield@yahoo.com>
>
>hi list
>
>starting to put together my electrical system. when
>testing the lights and other electrical componets,
>what should i use as a power source. i was thinking
>of buying my aircraft battery now and using it until i
>am ready to put it in the aircraft. will this damage
>it and or is it powerful enough for testing purposes.
>i can recharge it anytime but perhaps using it for
>testing is a bad idea any recommendations would be
>helpful. thanks in advance
>john butterfield
>601xl, corvair
Message 16
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Cc:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: armyret@one-eleven.net
John- I bought a 6V rechargable batt at a local store and used it for all testing
of strobes etc. If I remember right, the strobes need to be charged perodically
with a lower voltage to insure the aeroflash drive units don't go down the
tubes when a first time 12V surge is sent their way.
Al Young
XL
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: john butterfield <jdbutterfield@yahoo.com>
>
>hi list
>
>starting to put together my electrical system. when
>testing the lights and other electrical componets,
>what should i use as a power source. i was thinking
>of buying my aircraft battery now and using it until i
>am ready to put it in the aircraft. will this damage
>it and or is it powerful enough for testing purposes.
>i can recharge it anytime but perhaps using it for
>testing is a bad idea any recommendations would be
>helpful. thanks in advance
>john butterfield
>601xl, corvair
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
-------------------
Email sent using AnyEmail (http://netbula.com/anyemail/)
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Electrical Connections |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Crvsecretary@aol.com
Del City??
Got a web address ?
Thanks very much.
Tracy Smith
Naugatuck, CT
601xl N458XL (reserved)
do not archive
In a message dated 1/13/2006 6:17:22 PM Eastern Standard Time,
Bill@flyinmiata.com writes:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bill Cardell" <Bill@flyinmiata.com>
You can combine the best of both ideas with heat shrinkable butt
connectors. Del City has them, I'm sure other places do, too. They also
have some dielectric goo in them to seal the connection.
TurboDog's Dad
Bill Cardell
www.flyinmiata.com
1-800-FLY-MX5S
970-242-3800
Message 18
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| Subject: | Electrical Connections |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bill Cardell" <Bill@flyinmiata.com>
http://www.delcity.net/ specifically
http://www.delcity.net/delcity/servlet/catalog?parentid=195161&page=1
TurboDog's Dad
Bill Cardell
www.flyinmiata.com
1-800-FLY-MX5S
970-242-3800
Del City??
Got a web address ?
Thanks very much.
Tracy Smith
Naugatuck, CT
You can combine the best of both ideas with heat shrinkable butt
connectors. Del City has them, I'm sure other places do, too. They also
have some dielectric goo in them to seal the connection.
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: (no subject) |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: NYTerminat@aol.com
I used a portable car jump starter battery for a while then I used the
Aircraft battery
Bob Spudis
N701ZX CH-701/912S
In a message dated 1/13/2006 6:10:58 PM Eastern Standard Time,
jdbutterfield@yahoo.com writes:
hi list
starting to put together my electrical system. when
testing the lights and other electrical componets,
what should i use as a power source. i was thinking
of buying my aircraft battery now and using it until i
am ready to put it in the aircraft.
Message 20
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: ROBERT SCEPPA <rjscep@yahoo.com>
> I use a low voltage power supply from my model
railroad. Its
> DC and its variable too. It will tell you if you
have a short.
> I suppose any hobby store might carry it. If not try
Radio
> Shack..
--- john butterfield <jdbutterfield@yahoo.com> wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: john butterfield
> <jdbutterfield@yahoo.com>
>
> hi list
>
> starting to put together my electrical system. when
> testing the lights and other electrical componets,
> what should i use as a power source. i was thinking
> of buying my aircraft battery now and using it until
> i
> am ready to put it in the aircraft. will this
> damage
> it and or is it powerful enough for testing
> purposes.
> i can recharge it anytime but perhaps using it for
> testing is a bad idea any recommendations would be
> helpful. thanks in advance
> john butterfield
> 601xl, corvair
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | 601xl canopy lock |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Weston, Jim" <Jim.Weston@delta.com>
Sorry folks. I spelled the company name wrong. Here's the URL address http://www.kennoncovers.com/
Jim Weston
________________________________
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Weston, Jim
Sent: Fri 1/13/2006 11:24 AM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: 601xl canopy lock
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Weston, Jim" <Jim.Weston@delta.com>
I worked with Keenan Sunscreens several years ago. They have the
pattern and can make a canopy cover for the 601s. Mine came out great;
even satin lined to keep from scratching the lexan. Just another
option.
Jim Weston
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry
McFarland
Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 10:14 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: 601xl canopy lock
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Larry McFarland
--> <larrymc@qconline.com>
Bill,
The canopy cover is from Bruce's Custom Covers, 989 E California Avenue,
Sunnyvale, CA 94085.
The Tech Sheet describes it as ZENITH MODEL 601 Seen at
www.bruce@aircraftcovers.com Price was $350, but worth it. It comes
with your N-number on each side so that it too doesn't get legs.
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/canopy/full/canopycover1.gif
It is a nice fit and comes with a tote bag for stowage.
Larry McFarland
JAPhillipsGA@aol.com wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: JAPhillipsGA@aol.com
>
>Larry, that is a really good idea. Do recall where you bought it and
>which model fit the XL. Right now I use an old Bart Simpson bed sheet
>of my son's from
>15 years ago to cover the canopy to avoid dust and bird crap. Thanks,
>Bill
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | RE: RE: Battery for Electrical Testing |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Brandon Tucker <btucke73@yahoo.com>
Kevin,
I am glad that Tony Bingelis recommended that,
because that is exactly what I did this week. The
battery I ordered didn't come in time, so I used my
battery charger to test my radio, nav, intercom, and
CDI. Worked like a champ.
I have also used the battery out of my 14v
electric drill to test the mac trim servos. Pretty
convenient...
Brandon
Message 23
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| Subject: | Question on drawing 7H5 |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Rory Davis <n7cr@bellsouth.net>
Looking at 7H5-1, upper elevator horn. What is the length of the flange after
trimming from the radiused corner to the flange?
Thanks
Rory
CH-701
Message 24
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| Subject: | RE: Battery for Electrical Testing |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Craig Payne" <craig@craigandjean.com>
Cheap battery charges are not filtered and can reek havoc on electronic gear
(as opposed to motors, lights, etc).
-- Craig
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of kevinbonds
Sent: Friday, January 13, 2006 3:51 PM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: RE: Battery for Electrical Testing
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "kevinbonds" <kevinbonds@comcast.net>
Tony Bengelis suggests using a battery charger in "SportPlane Construction
Techniques" on page 162 to test flap actuators.
Kevin Bonds
Nashville TN
601XL Corvair powered; Plans building.
Empennage done; working on wings and engine.
http://home.comcast.net/~kevinbonds
do not archive DO NOT ARCHIVE
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phil Maxson
Sent: Friday, January 13, 2006 12:15 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: RE: Battery for Electrical Testing
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Phil Maxson" <pmaxpmax@hotmail.com>
I used my lawnmower battery.
Phil Maxson
601XL/Corvair
Northwest New Jersey
>From: john butterfield <jdbutterfield@yahoo.com>
>
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: john butterfield
><jdbutterfield@yahoo.com>
>
>hi list
>
>starting to put together my electrical system. when testing the lights
>and other electrical componets, what should i use as a power source. i
>was thinking of buying my aircraft battery now and using it until i am
>ready to put it in the aircraft. will this damage it and or is it
>powerful enough for testing purposes.
>i can recharge it anytime but perhaps using it for testing is a bad
>idea any recommendations would be helpful. thanks in advance john
>butterfield 601xl, corvair
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