Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:56 AM - Re:Jabiru in 701 (chrisoz@bmail.com.au)
2. 09:01 AM - 801 float kit (Keystone Engineering LLC)
3. 03:46 PM - has anyone dimpled their XL? (Chris sinfield)
4. 04:22 PM - Re: has anyone dimpled their XL? (Larry McFarland)
5. 04:23 PM - Re: has anyone dimpled their XL? (Zodie Rocket)
6. 07:18 PM - Proper Deburring Technique (Dave VanLanen)
7. 07:55 PM - Re: Proper Deburring Technique (Paul Mulwitz)
8. 10:31 PM - plug ()
9. 10:39 PM - Re: Proper Deburring Technique (kevinbonds)
10. 11:08 PM - Re: Proper Deburring Technique (kevinbonds)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re:Jabiru in 701 |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: chrisoz@bmail.com.au
Hello Doug,
I have heard similar things about the 2.2 Jabiru. Short prop not efficient,
and also the engine tends to overheat as the 701 is to slow for efficient
cooling. The jabiru-plane that the engine was developed for is a fairly nippy
little thing and moves much faster. Here in Australia a lot of 701 are
buzzing around, but hardly any have the localy produced Jabiru engine in them.
Food for thoughts....
Cheers from Downunder,
Chris from Perth
>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: doug kandle <d_kandle@velocitus.net>
>
> Yesterday a couple of people who stopped by to look at my progress on
> my 701 asked what engine I was planning. When I told them I planned
> to use the Jabiru 2200 they said that they had heard that there was a
> potential problem using that engine. With the 3300 RPM engine speed,
> the Jabiru required a shorter prop than a Rotax. Their argument is
> that with a shorter prop the Jabiru would not work as well as a Rotax
> (using a longer prop) because less of the prop extends beyond the
> cowling. Note: My calculations are with the Rotax running at 5800 RPM
> and a 2.43 gear box the prop is only turning 2380.
>
> Has anyone else heard this from a reliable source? Has anyone
> experienced any issues with the Jabiru on a 701?
>
Message 2
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: Keystone Engineering LLC <keystone@gci.net>
Hi
I am working on installing Full Lotus Floats on my CH 801. To put it on floats
I need to double 8F7-8. The additional piece is made from 0.040 6061T-6 the
same dimensions as the original. Or the two can be replaced with one made from
0.063 of 6061T-6. This increases the strength of the fuselage between the lower
engine mounts to accept a float attachment points at the lower engine mounts.
The rear float mounts are simple to install off the main landing gear.
I just wanted to throw this out for anyone that is still working on the fuselage
that has thoughts of floats in the future. It is easer to install this part
when constructing the plane than after it has a few hours in the air.
I am still amazed with the support I am receiving from ZAC. I ask them about attaching
floats from one of their competitors and they send me design drawings
on how to attach floats to the 801!
Thank you Nick!
More pictures and observations to come!
Bill Wilcox
Valdez, Alaska
N801BW
227.5 hrs
Finished and flying the bigger tail with VGs.
Working on attaching the floats (after Feb 1).
I need them on by March 1 so I can go caribou hunting on floats used as skis!
Life is good!
Message 3
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| Subject: | has anyone dimpled their XL? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Chris sinfield <chris_sinfield@yahoo.com>
Hi All
Has anyone dimpled their XL kit?? IS it worth it and would you get any extra
speed out of it due to the clean flying surfaces..
Eddie Steve has stated to dimple his tail and is about to start the wings.. It
looks Good without the raised heads but he said it takes twice as long.. So
the Q is ... Is it worth it just for the looks? or is there better performance...??
would it make a difference to the flying? test flight ?
I was thinking of doing the wings and tail with dimpled rivets and the fuse normally..
Chris..
---------------------------------
Ring in the New Year with Photo Calendars. Add photos, events, holidays, whatever.
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: has anyone dimpled their XL? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Larry McFarland <larrymc@qconline.com>
Chris,
You might just see another 2 mph airspeed, but I doubt it's worth the
work you propose to get it.
Larry McFarland
do not archive
Chris sinfield wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: Chris sinfield <chris_sinfield@yahoo.com>
>
>
>Hi All
> Has anyone dimpled their XL kit?? IS it worth it and would you get any extra
speed out of it due to the clean flying surfaces..
>
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | has anyone dimpled their XL? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Zodie Rocket" <zodierocket@hsfx.ca>
The effect of flat riveting over domed heads is 1/4 mph gain on speeds
below 200mph. IS the time worth it on an XL ? I doubt it, but if you
want to do it for looks then knock yourself out.
Mark Townsend Alma, Ontario
Zodiac 601XL C-GOXL, CH701 just started
www.ch601.org / www.ch701.com / www.Osprey2.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris
sinfield
Sent: Monday, January 16, 2006 6:45 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: has anyone dimpled their XL?
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Chris sinfield
<chris_sinfield@yahoo.com>
Hi All
Has anyone dimpled their XL kit?? IS it worth it and would you get any
extra speed out of it due to the clean flying surfaces..
Eddie Steve has stated to dimple his tail and is about to start the
wings.. It looks Good without the raised heads but he said it takes
twice as long.. So the Q is ... Is it worth it just for the looks? or is
there better performance...?? would it make a difference to the flying?
test flight ?
I was thinking of doing the wings and tail with dimpled rivets and the
fuse normally..
Chris..
---------------------------------
Ring in the New Year with Photo Calendars. Add photos, events,
holidays, whatever.
--
1/14/2006
--
1/14/2006
Message 6
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| Subject: | Proper Deburring Technique |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave VanLanen" <davevanlanen@sbcglobal.net>
I have a procedural question regarding deburring. How much is enough in
terms of material removed? If I use the file technique with a light touch
to avoid scratches, or if I use the drill bit technique with minimal turns
to avoid countersinking, it will take off the noticeable burrs. However, if
I run my fingernail towards the hole, there is still a slight "ridge" right
at the edge of the hole. Do I need to get all of this material off, so that
there is absolutely no "raised" area at all? If I do that with the file, it
tends to scratch the surface. If I try to remove it with additional turns
of the drill bit, it looks like it may be starting to countersink the hole,
which I know you're not supposed to do.
Any advice for me?
Thanks,
Dave Van Lanen
Madison, WI
601 XL
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Proper Deburring Technique |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Paul Mulwitz <p.mulwitz@worldnet.att.net>
Hi Dave,
I think it is important to take off all the raised area around the
hole so the pieces of sheet metal mate completely. As I understand
it, this is not so important where the rivets mate to the holes, but
I try to get that area flat too.
I don't think light scratches are a problem, so I don't worry about
them. I just use a smooth file and let the scratches come along with
the burrs. I intend to paint my plane anyway, so the scratches will
disappear under the paint.
Good luck,
Paul
XL wings
At 07:17 PM 1/16/2006, you wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave VanLanen"
><davevanlanen@sbcglobal.net>
>
>I have a procedural question regarding deburring. How much is enough in
>terms of material removed? If I use the file technique with a light touch
>to avoid scratches, or if I use the drill bit technique with minimal turns
>to avoid countersinking, it will take off the noticeable burrs. However, if
>I run my fingernail towards the hole, there is still a slight "ridge" right
>at the edge of the hole. Do I need to get all of this material off, so that
>there is absolutely no "raised" area at all? If I do that with the file, it
>tends to scratch the surface. If I try to remove it with additional turns
>of the drill bit, it looks like it may be starting to countersink the hole,
>which I know you're not supposed to do.
>
>Any advice for me?
>
>Thanks,
>Dave Van Lanen
>Madison, WI
>601 XL
>
>
Message 8
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: <momanpop@marshallnet.com>
Does anyone know where I can purchase a magnetic oil pan drain plug for an EA-81
Subaru stock oil pan?
Thanks.
Bob Tichy.
Message 9
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| Subject: | Proper Deburring Technique |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "kevinbonds" <kevinbonds@comcast.net>
Dave
I have toiled over this one as well. Don't feel alone. I have come to the
conclusion that there is no perfect method. I use the drill bit and try not
to countersink, but always seems to be, as you say, "starting to
countersink" on me too. I just try not to overdo it, but still remove all
that is raised. Both methods worry me as it seems the scratches from the
file, as well as the stopping and starting of the drill bit (which can leave
tiny gouges), could lead to cracks. Also doesn't seem too many Zodie's are
falling out of the sky because of this and I figure my technique is as good
as the next guys. Reckon surely it can't be the absolute worst at least.
Anyway this is what helps me sleep at night.
Kevin Bonds
Nashville TN
601XL Corvair powered; Plans building.
Empennage done; working on wings and engine.
http://home.comcast.net/~kevinbonds
do not archive DO NOT ARCHIVE
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave VanLanen
Sent: Monday, January 16, 2006 9:17 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Proper Deburring Technique
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave VanLanen"
<davevanlanen@sbcglobal.net>
I have a procedural question regarding deburring. How much is enough in
terms of material removed? If I use the file technique with a light touch
to avoid scratches, or if I use the drill bit technique with minimal turns
to avoid countersinking, it will take off the noticeable burrs. However, if
I run my fingernail towards the hole, there is still a slight "ridge" right
at the edge of the hole. Do I need to get all of this material off, so that
there is absolutely no "raised" area at all? If I do that with the file, it
tends to scratch the surface. If I try to remove it with additional turns
of the drill bit, it looks like it may be starting to countersink the hole,
which I know you're not supposed to do.
Any advice for me?
Thanks,
Dave Van Lanen
Madison, WI
601 XL
Message 10
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| Subject: | Proper Deburring Technique |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "kevinbonds" <kevinbonds@comcast.net>
>I figure my technique is as good as the next guys.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
BTW regarding my last post: I call that my "faster than a bear philosophy".
In case of bear attack, you don't have to be able to outrun a bear, just
need to run faster than the guy next to you. :)
Kevin Bonds
Nashville TN
601XL Corvair powered; Plans building.
Empennage done; working on wings and engine.
http://home.comcast.net/~kevinbonds
do not archive DO NOT ARCHIVE
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