Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:35 AM - Re: Elctrical Wiring Software (Martin Pohl)
2. 09:36 AM - control cables (john butterfield)
3. 10:04 AM - Re: Matco Brake Fluid (P.H. Raker)
4. 10:27 AM - Re: control cables (japhillipsga@aol.com)
5. 11:05 AM - Re: Re: Matco Brake Fluid (Leo Gates)
6. 11:33 AM - Re: Re: Matco Brake Fluid (Jim Hoak)
7. 11:50 AM - Re: Re: Matco Brake Fluid (Bryan Martin)
8. 12:35 PM - Re: Matco Brake Fluid (neitzel)
9. 12:41 PM - Can you reweld a 701 cabin frame? (Tony Bonsell)
10. 01:44 PM - Re: Re: Matco Brake Fluid (Rick R)
11. 01:53 PM - Re: Can you reweld a 701 cabin frame? (Keith Ashcraft)
12. 02:31 PM - Re: Re: Matco Brake Fluid (cgalley)
13. 02:55 PM - Re: Can you reweld a 701 cabin frame? (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
14. 05:07 PM - Re: Can you reweld a 701 cabin frame? (Keith Ashcraft)
15. 11:58 PM - Vs: Can you reweld a 701 cabin frame? (Jari.Kaija@pkcgroup.com)
Message 1
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: Elctrical Wiring Software |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Martin Pohl" <mpohl@pohltec.ch>
"PCB123 Schematic" is great!!! Thanks for the link.
Cheers Martin
___________________________
Martin Pohl
Zodiac XL QBK
Jona, Switzerland
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=8383#8383
Message 2
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> Zenith-List message posted by: john butterfield <jdbutterfield@yahoo.com>
hi list
there dosen't seem to be much information on the
installation of the control surface cables. they are
clearly set out, but what is the best way to install
them as you complete the plane. I have the wings done
and most of the fuse. How do you guys do the
controls, ie, connect the ends to the control surfaces
and just run the cables to the stick area and connect
later, I understand the actual connections on the
elevators and rudder are easily removed, but i would
like to finish the aeliron bell crank and close the
wing and not have to work through the inspection
plate. If i must, then i must. any ideas regarding
the order, proceedures for controls kor other helpful
hints would be great
regards
john butterfield
XL, corvair
Message 3
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: Matco Brake Fluid |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "P.H. Raker" <n556p@yahoo.com>
Hello,
Mac said that Matco recommends DOT-5 brake fluid. I've heard
others say that 5606 is the only thing to use, while others say to use
"Dexron" Automatic Transmission Fluid. The ATF is certainly the least
expensive and should be compatible with just about any hydraulic system
components. Can anyone think of a good reason NOT to use ATF? Has
anyone used it?
Phil Raker N556P HDS/Stratus ~85% completed
Message 4
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: control cables |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: japhillipsga@aol.com
John, What I did on my XL was I ran a nylon cord from each connection on the bellcrank
through the wing rib holes and tied them together at the root for safe
keeping. As you are making the final attachment of the wing to the fuselage you
attach the cables to the bellcrank side of each cord and pull the cable through.
Now you can make a reasonable guesstmate on alerion cable length. You swedge
the cable ends to the bellcrank, connect, and the feed the running ends through
the fairleads on the side of the fuselage. Then you push the wing on in
and bolt it to the center section and rear spar bracket. Then cut and swedge
the in board ends to fit. As designed by ZAC you can remove the wings by disconnecting
the bellcrank ends and pulling them through as you pull the wing out.
If you do this remember to re-attach a cord to the cable ends so you can pull
the cables back through when you re-attach the wing. I hope this makes sense.
Was not very difficult to do, best regards,
Bill N505WP 601XL-3300w/DC
-----Original Message-----
From: john butterfield <jdbutterfield@yahoo.com>
Sent: Tue, 31 Jan 2006 09:31:17 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Zenith-List: control cables
--> Zenith-List message posted by: john butterfield <jdbutterfield@yahoo.com>
hi list
there dosen't seem to be much information on the
installation of the control surface cables. they are
clearly set out, but what is the best way to install
them as you complete the plane. I have the wings done
and most of the fuse. How do you guys do the
controls, ie, connect the ends to the control surfaces
and just run the cables to the stick area and connect
later, I understand the actual connections on the
elevators and rudder are easily removed, but i would
like to finish the aeliron bell crank and close the
wing and not have to work through the inspection
plate. If i must, then i must. any ideas regarding
the order, proceedures for controls kor other helpful
hints would be great
regards
john butterfield
XL, corvair
Message 5
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: Matco Brake Fluid |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Leo Gates <leogates@allvantage.com>
Dexron ATF has been in my Matco breaks for 2+ years now. 85+ flying
hours. Cheap, works, available any where, Why use anything else?
Leo Gates
N601Z, CH601HDS, TDO
P.H. Raker wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "P.H. Raker" <n556p@yahoo.com>
>
>Hello,
> Mac said that Matco recommends DOT-5 brake fluid. I've heard
>others say that 5606 is the only thing to use, while others say to use
>"Dexron" Automatic Transmission Fluid. The ATF is certainly the least
>expensive and should be compatible with just about any hydraulic system
>components. Can anyone think of a good reason NOT to use ATF? Has
>anyone used it?
>
>Phil Raker N556P HDS/Stratus ~85% completed
>
>
Message 6
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: Matco Brake Fluid |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jim Hoak" <planejim@bellsouth.net>
Listers,
FWIW, as long as whatever fliud used is compatable with the seals and metals
in the system it should work. Some fluids attract moisture quicker than
others. I would use what the manufacturer recommends. I've had 5606 in my
601HD for over 9 years.
Jim Hoak 601HD 500.3 hrs
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Leo Gates" <leogates@allvantage.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 2:03 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Re: Matco Brake Fluid
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Leo Gates <leogates@allvantage.com>
>
> Dexron ATF has been in my Matco breaks for 2+ years now. 85+ flying
> hours. Cheap, works, available any where, Why use anything else?
>
> Leo Gates
> N601Z, CH601HDS, TDO
>
> P.H. Raker wrote:
>
>>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "P.H. Raker" <n556p@yahoo.com>
>>
>>Hello,
>> Mac said that Matco recommends DOT-5 brake fluid. I've heard
>>others say that 5606 is the only thing to use, while others say to use
>>"Dexron" Automatic Transmission Fluid. The ATF is certainly the least
>>expensive and should be compatible with just about any hydraulic system
>>components. Can anyone think of a good reason NOT to use ATF? Has
>>anyone used it?
>>
>>Phil Raker N556P HDS/Stratus ~85% completed
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 7
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: Matco Brake Fluid |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Bryan Martin <bryanmmartin@comcast.net>
As I recall, all three of those are acceptable fluids. On the other hand,
standard automotive brake fluid (DOT-3,-4) is not acceptable. Mil-H 5606 is
probably the same stuff as ATF.
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL, Stratus Subaru.
do not archive.
on 1/31/06 12:43 PM, P.H. Raker at n556p@yahoo.com wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "P.H. Raker" <n556p@yahoo.com>
>
> Hello,
> Mac said that Matco recommends DOT-5 brake fluid. I've heard
> others say that 5606 is the only thing to use, while others say to use
> "Dexron" Automatic Transmission Fluid. The ATF is certainly the least
> expensive and should be compatible with just about any hydraulic system
> components. Can anyone think of a good reason NOT to use ATF? Has
> anyone used it?
>
> Phil Raker N556P HDS/Stratus ~85% completed
>
>
Message 8
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: Matco Brake Fluid |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "neitzel" <n963wb@frontiernet.net>
Have used ATF in Matco brakes for two years now, no problems. Another
benefit of ATF is it does not absorb moisture like regular brake fluid.
Dick Neitzel
Sayner, WI
701 Jabiru 2200
Message 9
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Can you reweld a 701 cabin frame? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Tony Bonsell" <tbonsell@luxuria.com>
Hi Guys!
Still toiling away on the 701, and I've got some good momentum going. I'm
currently joining the front and rear fuselage, very exciting, but I've hit a
brick wall.
I bought an old edition kit for the fuse because, well, I'm stupid and it
was cheap. I ended up having to rebuy a lot of 4th edition parts from Zenith
to keep it current. Looks like I may have to buy a new cabin frame now!
Which sucks because I'm up here in Canuckistan and it will cost a fortune.
It turns out they changed some of the angles between versions, by a couple
of degrees on the front tubes. Enough to totally miss the firewall and the
front horn of the cabin side. I got out the old plans, and it looks like I
could save it if I could, um, "adjust" those angles. The lengths are all
fine.
I certainly wouldn't try to do it myself (chicken), but do you guys think it
can be done without sacrificing strength? Would you cut through the weld on
one side, bend a little and then reweld? Or would you just heat up the tube
and bend? Or are you outraged at the very idea?
*************************************************
Tony Bonsell (tbonsell@luxuria.com) CI-FKF
Luxuria + Apparatus Design Communications
535 Cragg Road, RR #3
Uxbridge, Ontario L9P 1R3
Voice: 905.852.3848
http://www.luxuria.com
*************************************************
Message 10
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: Matco Brake Fluid |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Rick R <rick@n701rr.com>
This is copied from the Matco web site:
" D. Inject brake fluid (Mil-H-5606) or equivalent, into the puck housing
and continue injecting until the fluid travels through the system in to the master
cylinder. " ACS has the Mil-H-5606. I'll be using that...
Rick
Orlando, FL. USA
http://www.n701rr.com
Message 11
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: Can you reweld a 701 cabin frame? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Keith Ashcraft <keith.ashcraft@itt.com>
Hi Tony,
You can heat and bend. Do so in small amounts. 4130 is fairly forgiving
for heating and re-normalizing. Don't try to bend to much at one time,
as the way it works is on the inside of the bend the metal is being
compressed into colder metal and the outside of the bend, the hot is
being streched. This is a technique used for bending the axles for my
Sidewinder. Although, the axle is a solid bar of steel, the process
works the same. Once again, 4130 was designed for torch welding, bending
and shaping.
Keith
**************************************************************************
Tony Bonsell wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Tony Bonsell" <tbonsell@luxuria.com>
>
>Hi Guys!
>
>Still toiling away on the 701, and I've got some good momentum going. I'm
>currently joining the front and rear fuselage, very exciting, but I've hit a
>brick wall.
>
>I bought an old edition kit for the fuse because, well, I'm stupid and it
>was cheap. I ended up having to rebuy a lot of 4th edition parts from Zenith
>to keep it current. Looks like I may have to buy a new cabin frame now!
>Which sucks because I'm up here in Canuckistan and it will cost a fortune.
>
>It turns out they changed some of the angles between versions, by a couple
>of degrees on the front tubes. Enough to totally miss the firewall and the
>front horn of the cabin side. I got out the old plans, and it looks like I
>could save it if I could, um, "adjust" those angles. The lengths are all
>fine.
>
>I certainly wouldn't try to do it myself (chicken), but do you guys think it
>can be done without sacrificing strength? Would you cut through the weld on
>one side, bend a little and then reweld? Or would you just heat up the tube
>and bend? Or are you outraged at the very idea?
>
>*************************************************
>Tony Bonsell (tbonsell@luxuria.com) CI-FKF
>Luxuria + Apparatus Design Communications
>535 Cragg Road, RR #3
>Uxbridge, Ontario L9P 1R3
>Voice: 905.852.3848
>http://www.luxuria.com
>
>*************************************************
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
*************************************
*Keith Ashcraft*
ITT Industries
Advanced Engineering & Sciences
5009 Centennial Blvd.
Colorado Springs, CO
80919
(719) 599-1787 -- work
(719) 332-4364 -- cell
keith.ashcraft@itt.com
************************************
This e-mail and any files transmitted with it are proprietary and intended solely
for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed. If you
have received this e-mail in error please notify the sender. Please note that
any views or opinions presented in this e-mail are solely those of the author
and do not necessarily represent those of ITT Industries, Inc. The recipient should
check this e-mail and any attachments for the presence of viruses. ITT Industries
accepts no liability for any damage caused by any virus transmitted
by this e-mail.
************************************
Message 12
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: Matco Brake Fluid |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
Mil-H 5606 is NOT the same as ATF except in color. 5606 gets sticky ATF
doesn't.
Cy Galley - Chair,
AirVenture Emergency Aircraft Repair
A Service Project of Chapter 75
EAA Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bryan Martin" <bryanmmartin@comcast.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 1:48 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Re: Matco Brake Fluid
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Bryan Martin <bryanmmartin@comcast.net>
>
> As I recall, all three of those are acceptable fluids. On the other hand,
> standard automotive brake fluid (DOT-3,-4) is not acceptable. Mil-H 5606
> is
> probably the same stuff as ATF.
>
>
> --
> Bryan Martin
> N61BM, CH 601 XL, Stratus Subaru.
> do not archive.
>
>
> on 1/31/06 12:43 PM, P.H. Raker at n556p@yahoo.com wrote:
>
>> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "P.H. Raker" <n556p@yahoo.com>
>>
>> Hello,
>> Mac said that Matco recommends DOT-5 brake fluid. I've heard
>> others say that 5606 is the only thing to use, while others say to use
>> "Dexron" Automatic Transmission Fluid. The ATF is certainly the least
>> expensive and should be compatible with just about any hydraulic system
>> components. Can anyone think of a good reason NOT to use ATF? Has
>> anyone used it?
>>
>> Phil Raker N556P HDS/Stratus ~85% completed
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 13
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Can you reweld a 701 cabin frame? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
I think Larry would add two further cautions...
1) Be careful not to kink the tube
2) Do not cool it too fast...Keep playing the flame over the heated area
to cool slowly.
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Keith
Ashcraft
Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 1:52 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Can you reweld a 701 cabin frame?
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Keith Ashcraft
--> <keith.ashcraft@itt.com>
Hi Tony,
You can heat and bend. Do so in small amounts. 4130 is fairly forgiving
for heating and re-normalizing. Don't try to bend to much at one time,
as the way it works is on the inside of the bend the metal is being
compressed into colder metal and the outside of the bend, the hot is
being streched. This is a technique used for bending the axles for my
Sidewinder. Although, the axle is a solid bar of steel, the process
works the same. Once again, 4130 was designed for torch welding, bending
and shaping.
Keith
************************************************************************
**
Tony Bonsell wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Tony Bonsell"
>--> <tbonsell@luxuria.com>
>
>Hi Guys!
>
>Still toiling away on the 701, and I've got some good momentum going.
>I'm currently joining the front and rear fuselage, very exciting, but
>I've hit a brick wall.
>
>I bought an old edition kit for the fuse because, well, I'm stupid and
>it was cheap. I ended up having to rebuy a lot of 4th edition parts
>from Zenith to keep it current. Looks like I may have to buy a new
cabin frame now!
>Which sucks because I'm up here in Canuckistan and it will cost a
fortune.
>
>It turns out they changed some of the angles between versions, by a
>couple of degrees on the front tubes. Enough to totally miss the
>firewall and the front horn of the cabin side. I got out the old plans,
>and it looks like I could save it if I could, um, "adjust" those
>angles. The lengths are all fine.
>
>I certainly wouldn't try to do it myself (chicken), but do you guys
>think it can be done without sacrificing strength? Would you cut
>through the weld on one side, bend a little and then reweld? Or would
>you just heat up the tube and bend? Or are you outraged at the very
idea?
>
>*************************************************
>Tony Bonsell (tbonsell@luxuria.com) CI-FKF Luxuria + Apparatus Design
>Communications
>535 Cragg Road, RR #3
>Uxbridge, Ontario L9P 1R3
>Voice: 905.852.3848
>http://www.luxuria.com
>
>*************************************************
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
*************************************
*Keith Ashcraft*
ITT Industries
Advanced Engineering & Sciences
5009 Centennial Blvd.
Colorado Springs, CO
80919
(719) 599-1787 -- work
(719) 332-4364 -- cell
keith.ashcraft@itt.com
************************************
This e-mail and any files transmitted with it are proprietary and
intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are
addressed. If you have received this e-mail in error please notify the
sender. Please note that any views or opinions presented in this e-mail
are solely those of the author and do not necessarily represent those of
ITT Industries, Inc. The recipient should check this e-mail and any
attachments for the presence of viruses. ITT Industries accepts no
liability for any damage caused by any virus transmitted by this e-mail.
************************************
Message 14
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: Can you reweld a 701 cabin frame? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Keith Ashcraft <keith.ashcraft@itt.com>
Well put!!!
Keith
(still pounding those little 3mm flanges on those little things call
flaperon and slat ribs!! Of course, in the Snow)
Alt. 9,100'
***************************************************
Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis) wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
>
>I think Larry would add two further cautions...
>
>1) Be careful not to kink the tube
>2) Do not cool it too fast...Keep playing the flame over the heated area
>to cool slowly.
>
>Frank
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Keith
>Ashcraft
>Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 1:52 PM
>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Can you reweld a 701 cabin frame?
>
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: Keith Ashcraft
>--> <keith.ashcraft@itt.com>
>
>Hi Tony,
>You can heat and bend. Do so in small amounts. 4130 is fairly forgiving
>for heating and re-normalizing. Don't try to bend to much at one time,
>as the way it works is on the inside of the bend the metal is being
>compressed into colder metal and the outside of the bend, the hot is
>being streched. This is a technique used for bending the axles for my
>Sidewinder. Although, the axle is a solid bar of steel, the process
>works the same. Once again, 4130 was designed for torch welding, bending
>and shaping.
>
>Keith
>************************************************************************
>**
>
>Tony Bonsell wrote:
>
>
>
>>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Tony Bonsell"
>>--> <tbonsell@luxuria.com>
>>
>>Hi Guys!
>>
>>Still toiling away on the 701, and I've got some good momentum going.
>>I'm currently joining the front and rear fuselage, very exciting, but
>>I've hit a brick wall.
>>
>>I bought an old edition kit for the fuse because, well, I'm stupid and
>>it was cheap. I ended up having to rebuy a lot of 4th edition parts
>>
>>
>>from Zenith to keep it current. Looks like I may have to buy a new
>cabin frame now!
>
>
>>Which sucks because I'm up here in Canuckistan and it will cost a
>>
>>
>fortune.
>
>
>>It turns out they changed some of the angles between versions, by a
>>couple of degrees on the front tubes. Enough to totally miss the
>>firewall and the front horn of the cabin side. I got out the old plans,
>>
>>
>
>
>
>>and it looks like I could save it if I could, um, "adjust" those
>>angles. The lengths are all fine.
>>
>>I certainly wouldn't try to do it myself (chicken), but do you guys
>>think it can be done without sacrificing strength? Would you cut
>>through the weld on one side, bend a little and then reweld? Or would
>>you just heat up the tube and bend? Or are you outraged at the very
>>
>>
>idea?
>
>
>>*************************************************
>>Tony Bonsell (tbonsell@luxuria.com) CI-FKF Luxuria + Apparatus Design
>>Communications
>>535 Cragg Road, RR #3
>>Uxbridge, Ontario L9P 1R3
>>Voice: 905.852.3848
>>http://www.luxuria.com
>>
>>*************************************************
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
--
*************************************
*Keith Ashcraft*
ITT Industries
Advanced Engineering & Sciences
5009 Centennial Blvd.
Colorado Springs, CO
80919
(719) 599-1787 -- work
(719) 332-4364 -- cell
keith.ashcraft@itt.com
************************************
This e-mail and any files transmitted with it are proprietary and intended solely
for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed. If you
have received this e-mail in error please notify the sender. Please note that
any views or opinions presented in this e-mail are solely those of the author
and do not necessarily represent those of ITT Industries, Inc. The recipient should
check this e-mail and any attachments for the presence of viruses. ITT Industries
accepts no liability for any damage caused by any virus transmitted
by this e-mail.
************************************
Message 15
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Can you reweld a 701 cabin frame? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Jari.Kaija@pkcgroup.com
> I certainly wouldn't try to do it myself (chicken), but do you guys think
it
> can be done without sacrificing strength? Would you cut through the weld
on
> one side, bend a little and then reweld? Or would you just heat up the
tube
> and bend? Or are you outraged at the very idea?
Do NOT cut it "a little"! Cut it TOTALLY and reweld it to a new
angle! Do NOT heat tubes and bend them either!
You can use Dremell with cutting disc etc...
-------------------------------------------
Jari Kaija
Electronic Designer
PKC Group Oyj
Vihikari 10
FIN-90440 KEMPELE
FINLAND
Mobile: +358 (0)40 5200265
Phone: +358 (0)201 752252
TeleFax: +358 (0)201 752401
jari.kaija@pkcgroup.com
http://www.pkcgroup.com
http://www.project-ch701.net
-------------------------------------------
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|