Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:19 AM - Re: green scotchbrite (steveadams)
2. 06:53 AM - Re: EVIL SCOTCHBRITE, etc (japhillipsga@aol.com)
3. 07:00 AM - N105RH ()
4. 07:02 AM - Re: EVIL SCOTCHBRITE (japhillipsga@aol.com)
5. 07:08 AM - Re: EVIL SCOTCHBRITE (Garrou, Douglas)
6. 07:39 AM - Re: EVIL SCOTCHBRITE (JOHN STARN)
7. 08:00 AM - Re: Rivnuts or Anchor Nuts or Am I Nuts? (Cleone Markwell)
8. 08:27 AM - Re: EVIL SCOTCHBRITE (steveadams)
9. 09:24 AM - Re: N105RH (N5SL)
10. 09:27 AM - ScotchBright contains Bad Carbs! (Zed Smith)
11. 10:08 AM - Re: 105RH (Tim Egan)
12. 10:21 AM - Re: Rivnuts or Anchor Nuts or Am I Nuts? (Gary Gower)
13. 10:35 AM - Re: Rivnuts or Anchor Nuts or Am I Nuts? (Bob Miller)
14. 10:46 AM - Re: N105RH (xl)
15. 11:55 AM - Re: Rivnuts or Anchor Nuts or Am I Nuts? (cgalley)
16. 12:12 PM - XL firewall/motor-mount: bolts or studs (Craig Payne)
17. 12:12 PM - green scotchbrite and corrosion (mcr01steiner@mac.com)
18. 02:49 PM - 0.02 worth (Brad Cohen)
19. 02:53 PM - Re: XL firewall/motor-mount: bolts or studs (Mike)
20. 03:12 PM - Re: Rivnuts or Anchor Nuts or Am I Nuts? (Jim Hoak)
21. 03:46 PM - The weight of Primer (Ron Lendon)
22. 03:48 PM - Ye Olde Nose Geare Strute (Tommy Walker)
23. 04:28 PM - Re: Ye Olde Nose Geare Strute (Craig Payne)
24. 04:44 PM - Re: Ye Olde Nose Geare Strute (Mike Sinclair)
25. 05:00 PM - Re: Ye Olde Nose Geare Strute (Craig Payne)
26. 05:26 PM - Re: Ye Olde Nose Geare Strute (Mike Sinclair)
27. 05:36 PM - Re: Ye Olde Nose Geare Strute (Larry McFarland)
28. 07:01 PM - Re: Ye Olde Nose Geare Strute (Tommy Walker)
29. 07:30 PM - Re: Ye Olde Nose Geare Strute (NYTerminat@aol.com)
30. 07:44 PM - Re: Ye Olde Nose Geare Strute (doug kandle)
31. 11:02 PM - Re: Ye Olde Nose Geare Strute (Gary Gower)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: green scotchbrite |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "steveadams" <dr_steve_adams@yahoo.com>
Could we please put this OWT to rest. Here is the MSDS on scothbrite 96 (the green
ones), in spanish, but thats all I could find.
SCOTCH-BRITE(TM) FIBRA ESPONJA 96, MEXICO
ISSUED: January 28, 2000
SUPERSEDES: INITIAL ISSUE
DOCUMENT: 09-5039-4
1. INGREDIENT C.A.S. NO. PERCENT
PHENOLIC RESIN.......................... 9003-35-4 30-60%
ALUMINUM OXIDE.......................... 1344-28-1 20-50%
NYLON FIBER............................. Unknown 15-40%
I looked through all the msds's for scotch-brite and couldn't find any of the pads
that had anything other than aluminum oxide, silicon carbide, talc, or polyester
as an abrasive. The "aircraft cleaning pads" have talc and polyester.
The various scotch-brite wheels, grinders etc may be different, I didn't look
at them. Select them based upon how abrasive you want them to be, or price, or
color if you just like the way marron or grey look in your hand, but none of
the pads commonly available contain iron. All of us who picked up our green pads
from walmart, home depot, or under the kitchen sink can finally sleep without
worrying. Now as far as priming the interior surfaces.........
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=10992#10992
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: EVIL SCOTCHBRITE, etc |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: japhillipsga@aol.com
Jim, was that you flying yesterday late afternoon ? I had just turned west off
30 at about 3500 and climbing and I passed over a maroon colored 601 flying north
to south entering the pattern. I called but received no answer. Hope your
well, Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: Weston, Jim <Jim.Weston@delta.com>
Sent: Wed, 8 Feb 2006 13:46:17 -0500
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: EVIL SCOTCHBRITE
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Weston, Jim" <Jim.Weston@delta.com>
Ok, this is getting really fun. So I can't resist to put in my two
cents. I don't know about the color coding, but the problem is that
some pads are manufactured with Aluminum Oxide as the abrasive, and some
are manufactured with Iron Oxide as the abrasive. Iron Oxide is very
very very bad to use on aluminum. During the process of scrubbing the
aluminum small particles of iron oxide are embedded within the aluminum.
The contact between dissimilar metals and the rusting action of the iron
causes corrosion to form. WE DON'T WANT CORROSION ON OUR ALUMINUM
AIRPLANES. I may have the physics/chemistry of the situation a bit
wrong, but the effect is the same. Unless you figure out the color code
issue, buy your scotch brite type of pads at the local auto paint shop
and make sure that the abrasive is aluminum.
Jim Weston
Concord, Ga.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Garrou,
Douglas
Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 10:11 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: EVIL SCOTCHBRITE
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Garrou, Douglas"
--> <dgarrou@hunton.com>
For those who have used green Scotchbrite, fear not: if this product
results in the destruction of your airframe, I will represent your
bereaved relatives and estate against 3M -- pro bono.
Seriously, what could a green Scotchbrite possibly do to aluminum sheet
that would damage it?!? True, I'm nobody's idea of an engineer -- you
can trust me on that, or you could just ask the Chief Engineer for
Project 801, where my official position apparently is "chief
self-inflicted injury receiver." But in any event, my pea-brain can't
get itself around the idea of a color-coded killer Scotchbrite.
I am, however, starting to get nervous. Now, whenever I see the green
Scotchbrite on the shelf at Project 801 HQ, that evil bad-guy music from
Star Wars starts playing in my head.
I also think that aircraft listed for sale in Trade-a-Plane should have
to identify total time on the airframe, total time on the engine since
overhaul, and whether a green Scotchbrite has ever been within 75 feet
of the aircraft.
Finally, I have taken to wearing a maroon Scotchbrite on a string around
my neck when I sleep, to ward off the evil green spirit. Really, you
just can't be too careful.
Doug Garrou
Project 801
www.garrou.com
p.s. You know you can trust me: My hair is sort of maroon-colored.
-----Original Message-----
> >
> > Green dust??? Sounds, like you are using the green Scotchbrite. No
> > good for aluminum. Use only the darl red stuff.
Message 3
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: <kim.forest@surewest.net>
Does anyone have any details? Our thoughts are with them...
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: EVIL SCOTCHBRITE |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: japhillipsga@aol.com
Bruce, yes, unfortunately, it appears from our investigation that you have incorrectly
used the little known, but very dangerous and unstable, Explosive Army
Green scotch brite pad. Sorry pal, your only possible course of action is to
hand chip all paint and primer from you plane using a plastic picnic spoon while
under a water sprinkler. Tough luck. With any kind of effort you should maybe
done by early April, say around the 1st. Take care and best regards, Bill of
Georgia
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: B Johnson <bjohnson@satx.rr.com>
Sent: Wed, 8 Feb 2006 15:20:51 -0600
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: EVIL SCOTCHBRITE
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "B Johnson" <bjohnson@satx.rr.com>
Jim,
It appears that what I have (not actually "green" per-say, looks more like
army green) is "silicon carbide" any thoughts on that??? More fun??? <grin>
Bruce Johnson
Hoping my Sonex doesnt fall out of the sky because I bought cheep surplus
scotch=brite.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Weston, Jim
Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 12:46 PM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: EVIL SCOTCHBRITE
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Weston, Jim" <Jim.Weston@delta.com>
Ok, this is getting really fun. So I can't resist to put in my two
cents. I don't know about the color coding, but the problem is that
some pads are manufactured with Aluminum Oxide as the abrasive, and some
are manufactured with Iron Oxide as the abrasive. Iron Oxide is very
very very bad to use on aluminum. During the process of scrubbing the
aluminum small particles of iron oxide are embedded within the aluminum.
The contact between dissimilar metals and the rusting action of the iron
causes corrosion to form. WE DON'T WANT CORROSION ON OUR ALUMINUM
AIRPLANES. I may have the physics/chemistry of the situation a bit
wrong, but the effect is the same. Unless you figure out the color code
issue, buy your scotch brite type of pads at the local auto paint shop
and make sure that the abrasive is aluminum.
Jim Weston
Concord, Ga.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Garrou,
Douglas
Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 10:11 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: EVIL SCOTCHBRITE
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Garrou, Douglas"
--> <dgarrou@hunton.com>
For those who have used green Scotchbrite, fear not: if this product
results in the destruction of your airframe, I will represent your
bereaved relatives and estate against 3M -- pro bono.
Seriously, what could a green Scotchbrite possibly do to aluminum sheet
that would damage it?!? True, I'm nobody's idea of an engineer -- you
can trust me on that, or you could just ask the Chief Engineer for
Project 801, where my official position apparently is "chief
self-inflicted injury receiver." But in any event, my pea-brain can't
get itself around the idea of a color-coded killer Scotchbrite.
I am, however, starting to get nervous. Now, whenever I see the green
Scotchbrite on the shelf at Project 801 HQ, that evil bad-guy music from
Star Wars starts playing in my head.
I also think that aircraft listed for sale in Trade-a-Plane should have
to identify total time on the airframe, total time on the engine since
overhaul, and whether a green Scotchbrite has ever been within 75 feet
of the aircraft.
Finally, I have taken to wearing a maroon Scotchbrite on a string around
my neck when I sleep, to ward off the evil green spirit. Really, you
just can't be too careful.
Doug Garrou
Project 801
www.garrou.com
p.s. You know you can trust me: My hair is sort of maroon-colored.
-----Original Message-----
> >
> > Green dust??? Sounds, like you are using the green Scotchbrite. No
> > good for aluminum. Use only the darl red stuff.
--
--
Message 5
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| Subject: | EVIL SCOTCHBRITE |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Garrou, Douglas" <dgarrou@hunton.com>
Okay, yours is the kind of post that gets the evil Scotchbrite internet world humming.
It's time to apply the scientific process.
I'm not saying you're wrong -- at this point I'm WAAAAY too ignorant to stake out
my position -- but I'm from Missouri. (Figuratively, and thus unlike our 801
kit, which is from Missouri literally.)
Anyway, do you have:
(1) a source for the claim that green scotchbrite contains iron oxide abrasives
(2) a source for the claim that iron oxide abrasives are very very bad to use on
aluminum
(3) a source for the claim that small particles of iron oxide abrasives will actually
embed themselves in the aluminum
(4) a source for the claim that these embedded particles then contribute to dissimilar
metal corrosion processes
(5) any evidence that any aluminum sheet anywhere has been corroded or damaged
in this fashion.
I'll take the "WE DON'T WANT CORROSION" part as a given.
It seems to me that whatever the heck is in green scotchbrite, steps 3 and 4 are
the really questionable steps here. Meanwhile, we seem to have anecdotal evidence
that 5 hasn't yet occurred.
Clearly we need to ask those Ph.D. corrosion types this question. That was a really
interesting post (unlike my blather....)
Cheers
Doug Garrou
Project801
www.garrou.com
-----Original Message-----
Time: 10:51:10 AM PST US
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: EVIL SCOTCHBRITE
From: "Weston, Jim" <Jim.Weston@delta.com>
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Weston, Jim" <Jim.Weston@delta.com>
Ok, this is getting really fun. So I can't resist to put in my two
cents. I don't know about the color coding, but the problem is that
some pads are manufactured with Aluminum Oxide as the abrasive, and some
are manufactured with Iron Oxide as the abrasive. Iron Oxide is very
very very bad to use on aluminum. During the process of scrubbing the
aluminum small particles of iron oxide are embedded within the aluminum.
The contact between dissimilar metals and the rusting action of the iron
causes corrosion to form. WE DON'T WANT CORROSION ON OUR ALUMINUM
AIRPLANES. I may have the physics/chemistry of the situation a bit
wrong, but the effect is the same. Unless you figure out the color code
issue, buy your scotch brite type of pads at the local auto paint shop
and make sure that the abrasive is aluminum.
Jim Weston
Concord, Ga.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Garrou,
Douglas
Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 10:11 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: EVIL SCOTCHBRITE
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Garrou, Douglas"
--> <dgarrou@hunton.com>
For those who have used green Scotchbrite, fear not: if this product
results in the destruction of your airframe, I will represent your
bereaved relatives and estate against 3M -- pro bono.
Seriously, what could a green Scotchbrite possibly do to aluminum sheet
that would damage it?!? True, I'm nobody's idea of an engineer -- you
can trust me on that, or you could just ask the Chief Engineer for
Project 801, where my official position apparently is "chief
self-inflicted injury receiver." But in any event, my pea-brain can't
get itself around the idea of a color-coded killer Scotchbrite.
I am, however, starting to get nervous. Now, whenever I see the green
Scotchbrite on the shelf at Project 801 HQ, that evil bad-guy music from
Star Wars starts playing in my head.
I also think that aircraft listed for sale in Trade-a-Plane should have
to identify total time on the airframe, total time on the engine since
overhaul, and whether a green Scotchbrite has ever been within 75 feet
of the aircraft.
Finally, I have taken to wearing a maroon Scotchbrite on a string around
my neck when I sleep, to ward off the evil green spirit. Really, you
just can't be too careful.
Doug Garrou
Project 801
www.garrou.com
p.s. You know you can trust me: My hair is sort of maroon-colored.
-----Original Message-----
> >
> > Green dust??? Sounds, like you are using the green Scotchbrite. No
> > good for aluminum. Use only the darl red stuff.
________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________
Time: 10:51:36 AM PST US
From: japhillipsga@aol.com
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Re: Corrosion Prevention: Alodine and Zinc Chromate:
folow ups, pics and scotchbrite
--> Zenith-List message posted by: japhillipsga@aol.com
Dan, the brown or maroon pad it courser than the green. The reason there may be
some hesitation on our part to say what is right or wrong is that we are not
sure exactly what and when you plan to do with the metal. On my XL I used the
maroon pads to clean and scuff the metal before re cleaning with lacquer thinner
and wax /grease cleaner then priming with epoxy primer. When the epoxy seals
corrosion is dead. Best of luck, Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: Dan Morehouse <messydeer@yahoo.com>
Sent: Tue, 7 Feb 2006 07:10:10 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Corrosion Prevention: Alodine and Zinc Chromate: folow
ups, pics and scotchbrite
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Dan Morehouse <messydeer@yahoo.com>
Thanks everybody for being thankful. I've taken so much from this group over the
past several months, so it's nice to add something.
I'll be asking a few follow up questions to these guys in a little while, so
please post any you have. I'll ask about the stain 'shadow' that remains or
recurrs. I was told it's fine to paint over, but I will double check to make
sure it would be nothing but a minor cosmetic defect.
I hit the aluminum with a Blendes drum and also with Alumiprep and scotchbrite
for the first time last night. The Alumiprep didn't work so-so. I used a GREEN
scotchbrite and maybe 20# hand pressure after mixing the Alumiprep 1:2, the
highest suggested mix ratio. Did that after a 6-8 minute dwell time.
The Blendex drum on an angle grinder by itself worked much better. It looked
like that stain shadow was left after an initial pass using 10-20# pressure on
the grinder. It was much shinier and the shadow was only noticeable at certain
reflective angles. I'm not sure this is what Dr. Dean talked about or not. I was
able to get rid of it with a second pass and twice as much pressure. If this
will be the interior side, I might not even have to do that. One of my questions
I'll ask.
I emailed a few pics of this to the list. I'm told it may take a few days to
post and the group will be notified.
Finally, it seems there's a debate on the grade of scotchbrite to be used. I'm
using green and have heard others say maroon is better. Is that a finer or
coarser grade?
Cheers,
Dan
---------------------------------
________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________
Time: 10:57:21 AM PST US
From: japhillipsga@aol.com
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Propeller Balancing
--> Zenith-List message posted by: japhillipsga@aol.com
Jeff, Spruce has (had) an inexpensive plug, line level, string device for sale
to balance props. Saw it, but have not used it. Seem similar devices in other
DIY plane building books, Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: Jeffrey J Paris <jeffrey-j-paris@excite.com>
Sent: Tue, 7 Feb 2006 12:55:39 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Zenith-List: Propeller Balancing
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jeffrey J Paris" <jeffrey-j-paris@excite.com>
Guru's of the Zenith List,
I've Googled without much luck, but does anyone have an inexpensive way,
directions, instructions to balance ones' wooden propeller? I'm curious to see
what has to be said?
Thank you for your time and consideration.
Jeff Paris
N196ZP CH601XL Jabiru 3300
45 hours in the air and loving every minute of it!!!!
________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________
Time: 01:29:36 PM PST US
From: "B Johnson" <bjohnson@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: EVIL SCOTCHBRITE
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "B Johnson" <bjohnson@satx.rr.com>
Jim,
It appears that what I have (not actually "green" per-say, looks more like
army green) is "silicon carbide" any thoughts on that??? More fun??? <grin>
Bruce Johnson
Hoping my Sonex doesnt fall out of the sky because I bought cheep surplus
scotch=brite.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Weston, Jim
Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 12:46 PM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: EVIL SCOTCHBRITE
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Weston, Jim" <Jim.Weston@delta.com>
Ok, this is getting really fun. So I can't resist to put in my two
cents. I don't know about the color coding, but the problem is that
some pads are manufactured with Aluminum Oxide as the abrasive, and some
are manufactured with Iron Oxide as the abrasive. Iron Oxide is very
very very bad to use on aluminum. During the process of scrubbing the
aluminum small particles of iron oxide are embedded within the aluminum.
The contact between dissimilar metals and the rusting action of the iron
causes corrosion to form. WE DON'T WANT CORROSION ON OUR ALUMINUM
AIRPLANES. I may have the physics/chemistry of the situation a bit
wrong, but the effect is the same. Unless you figure out the color code
issue, buy your scotch brite type of pads at the local auto paint shop
and make sure that the abrasive is aluminum.
Jim Weston
Concord, Ga.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Garrou,
Douglas
Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 10:11 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: EVIL SCOTCHBRITE
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Garrou, Douglas"
--> <dgarrou@hunton.com>
For those who have used green Scotchbrite, fear not: if this product
results in the destruction of your airframe, I will represent your
bereaved relatives and estate against 3M -- pro bono.
Seriously, what could a green Scotchbrite possibly do to aluminum sheet
that would damage it?!? True, I'm nobody's idea of an engineer -- you
can trust me on that, or you could just ask the Chief Engineer for
Project 801, where my official position apparently is "chief
self-inflicted injury receiver." But in any event, my pea-brain can't
get itself around the idea of a color-coded killer Scotchbrite.
I am, however, starting to get nervous. Now, whenever I see the green
Scotchbrite on the shelf at Project 801 HQ, that evil bad-guy music from
Star Wars starts playing in my head.
I also think that aircraft listed for sale in Trade-a-Plane should have
to identify total time on the airframe, total time on the engine since
overhaul, and whether a green Scotchbrite has ever been within 75 feet
of the aircraft.
Finally, I have taken to wearing a maroon Scotchbrite on a string around
my neck when I sleep, to ward off the evil green spirit. Really, you
just can't be too careful.
Doug Garrou
Project 801
www.garrou.com
p.s. You know you can trust me: My hair is sort of maroon-colored.
-----Original Message-----
> >
> > Green dust??? Sounds, like you are using the green Scotchbrite. No
> > good for aluminum. Use only the darl red stuff.
--
--
________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________
Time: 03:35:06 PM PST US
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: green scotchbrite
From: "Ron Lendon" <rlendon@comcast.net>
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Ron Lendon" <rlendon@comcast.net>
It looks like the green pads are for scouring. Here is a link to 3m's site:
--------
Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
Corvair Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=10918#10918
________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________
Time: 04:08:56 PM PST US
From: "n801bh@netzero.com" <n801bh@netzero.com>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: EVIL SCOTCHBRITE
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "n801bh@netzero.com" <n801bh@netzero.com>
Finally, I have taken to wearing a maroon Scotchbrite on a string around my neck
when I sleep, to ward off the evil green spirit. Really, you just can't be too
careful.
Doug Garrou
Project 801
www.garrou.com
p.s. You know you can trust me: My hair is sort of maroon-colored.
//////////////////////////////////////////
Ya know, The image of green colored scotchbrite hair flashed through my brain
for a second. All I saw was a Don King looking guy at a salad bar... EEEWWWWWW...
<G>
Of course, DO NOT ARCHIVE.
Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
Finally, I have taken to wearing a maroon Scotchbrite on a string around my neck
when I sleep, to ward off the evil green spirit. Really, you just can't be too
careful.
Doug Garrou
Project 801
www.garrou.com
p.s. You know you can trust me: My hair is sort of maroon-colored.
//////////////////////////////////////////
Ya know,The image ofgreen colored scotchbrite hair flashed through my brain for
a second. All I saw was a Don King looking guy at a salad bar... EEEWWWWWW...
G
Of course, DO NOT ARCHIVE.
BenHaas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: EVIL SCOTCHBRITE |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
OR A SECOND OPTION.......You could ship it to me, where I promise to take
the required steps to neutralize the hazard, then buy yourself another kit &
start over. 8*) Also this must be completed on or before April F.... ...
the 1st. 2006.
KABONG Do Not Archive (May even kick in a few bucks to help out on shipping
costs)
----- Original Message -----
From: <japhillipsga@aol.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 7:01 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: EVIL SCOTCHBRITE
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: japhillipsga@aol.com
>
> Bruce, yes, unfortunately, it appears from our investigation that you have
> incorrectly used the little known, but very dangerous and unstable,
> Explosive Army Green scotch brite pad. Sorry pal, your only possible
> course of action is to hand chip all paint and primer from you plane using
> a plastic picnic spoon while under a water sprinkler. Tough luck. With any
> kind of effort you should maybe done by early April, say around the 1st.
> Take care and best regards, Bill of Georgia
> do not archive
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: B Johnson <bjohnson@satx.rr.com>
> To: zenith-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Wed, 8 Feb 2006 15:20:51 -0600
> Subject: RE: Zenith-List: EVIL SCOTCHBRITE
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Rivnuts or Anchor Nuts or Am I Nuts? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Cleone Markwell <cleone@rr1.net>
Scott, About 15 yrs ago while building my first plane I bought a kit and
supply of rivnuts and didn't like them so haven't used one for
years. Problem was the few that turned and the trouble in repairing the
problem. Perhaps I didn't learn the proper way to do this if there is
one. Best of luck, Cleone
At 01:00 PM 1/17/2006, you wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: N5SL <nfivesl@yahoo.com>
>
>Fellow builders:
>
>As you can see from the following photo, I haven't yet
>attached my forward, top skin permanently.
>
>http://www.cooknwithgas.com/1_17_06_Panel.jpg
>
>The first reason is that I have a rat's nest of wires
>to be tidied up. The second reason is that I want to
>be able to remove it later and haven't decided how
>best to do this.
>
>I have been using rivnuts all over the place for
>non-structural applications (like wire-clamps).
>
>For those of you who are reading and have not
>personally installed a rivnut and/or an anchor nut
>before, here's the best photo I could find:
>
>http://www.torquecontrol.ltd.uk/photo2.jpg
>or
>http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/rivets/rivnuts.jpg
>
>As opposed to an anchor nut:
>
>http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/bolts/minianchornut.jpg
>
>So - after all that - my question is - does anybody
>have a good reason why I should not install rivnuts to
>hold down the top forward skin with screws? (Besides
>the obvious reason that one or two may spin in the
>future - I can get back there to hold them if this
>happens).
>
>Thanks in advance for any input,
>
>Scott Laughlin
>www.cooknwithgas.com
>
>DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: EVIL SCOTCHBRITE |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "steveadams" <dr_steve_adams@yahoo.com>
Please see my post under "green scotch-brite". I could find no scotchbrite pads
having iron oxide. This is an OWT.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=11039#11039
Message 9
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: N5SL <nfivesl@yahoo.com>
Details? Sorry but from reading your email and
looking at the subject line, there's no way to tell
what you are referring to. It sounds important.
Please provide more information.
Scott Laughlin
www.cooknwithgas.com
DO NOT ARCHIVE
--- kim.forest@surewest.net wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by:
> <kim.forest@surewest.net>
>
> Does anyone have any details? Our thoughts are with
> them...
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | ScotchBright contains Bad Carbs! |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Zed Smith <zsmith3rd@earthlink.net>
Wouldn't it be much simpler to start with CLEAN aluminum from the beginning?
please do not archive except on odd-numbered Thursdays.
Zed/701/R912/90+%/I just use an old rag and Jim Bean.....test first for quality....apply
liberal amount.
Message 11
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Tim Egan" <eedetailing@qwest.net>
From
www.faa.gov:****************************************************************
****************
** Report created 2/9/2006 Record 3
**
****************************************************************************
****
IDENTIFICATION
Regis#: 105RH Make/Model: EXP Description: ZENITH ZODIAC
Date: 02/08/2006 Time: 2318
Event Type: Accident Highest Injury: Fatal Mid Air: N Missing: N
Damage: Destroyed
LOCATION
City: OAKDALE State: CA Country: US
DESCRIPTION
ACFT CRASHED UNDER UNKNOWN CIRCUMSTANCES INTO AN ORCHARD, THE TWO PERSONS
ON BOARD WERE FATALLY INJURED, OAKDALE, CA
INJURY DATA Total Fatal: 2
# Crew: 2 Fat: 2 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk:
# Pass: 0 Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk:
# Grnd: Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk:
WEATHER: METAR KMOD 2240 WIND CALM, VIS 6KTS, SKY CLR, TEMP23, DPT8, A3007
OTHER DATA
Departed: Dep Date: Dep. Time:
Destination: Flt Plan: Wx Briefing:
Last Radio Cont:
Last Clearance:
FAA FSDO: FRESNO, CA (WP17) Entry date: 02/09/2006
A search of the registration databse indicates that the registration is in
question:Aircraft Description Serial Number 6-5301 Type
Registration Individual Manufacturer Name ZENITH AIRCRAFT CO
Certificate Issue Date None Model ZODIAC 601XL Status In Question
Type Aircraft Fixed Wing Single-Engine Type Engine Reciprocating Pending
Number Change None Dealer No Date Change Authorized None Mode S Code
50014306 MFR Year 2002 Fractional Owner
--------Registered Owner Name REGISTRATION PENDING Street 1330
MAGNOLIA AVE City MODESTO State CALIFORNIA Zip Code 95350-5265
County STANISLAUS Country UNITED STATES
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Rivnuts or Anchor Nuts or Am I Nuts? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Gary Gower <ggower_99@yahoo.com>
I have used them in some panels.
What I use when installing them is a little amount of epoxy putty, the one that
comes in two sticks and they blend with the fingers.
Well, given my poor explanation, :-) I aply a little amount betwen the rivnut
and the skin before pressing it, then wipe the excess, is like welding the
rivnut in place.
The bolts I install them with a drop of linseed (sp?) oil, to prevent corrosion.
I used them in my 701 to install the LRI and Pitot plates, which I plan to remove
every year to clean and inspect.
Once I installed some in my old ultralight have 5 years there, without removing
and last saturday I removed tested the bolts and they worked out ok.
I think one important thing is the amount of potential corrosion in your area
(sea breeze) to get the bolts freezed, removing them for mantainance at least
once a year, may not get enough corrosion to "weld" to the rivnut. Corrosion
of the bolt is the problem.
The anchor nuts are better used for more structural and permanent attachments
where holding the nut with a wrench is not possible, Yes is perfectly OK to
use them. more work, more weight and more expensive...
Saludos
Gary Gower.
Cleone Markwell <cleone@rr1.net> wrote:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Cleone Markwell
Scott, About 15 yrs ago while building my first plane I bought a kit and
supply of rivnuts and didn't like them so haven't used one for
years. Problem was the few that turned and the trouble in repairing the
problem. Perhaps I didn't learn the proper way to do this if there is
one. Best of luck, Cleone
At 01:00 PM 1/17/2006, you wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: N5SL
>
>Fellow builders:
>
>As you can see from the following photo, I haven't yet
>attached my forward, top skin permanently.
>
>http://www.cooknwithgas.com/1_17_06_Panel.jpg
>
>The first reason is that I have a rat's nest of wires
>to be tidied up. The second reason is that I want to
>be able to remove it later and haven't decided how
>best to do this.
>
>I have been using rivnuts all over the place for
>non-structural applications (like wire-clamps).
>
>For those of you who are reading and have not
>personally installed a rivnut and/or an anchor nut
>before, here's the best photo I could find:
>
>http://www.torquecontrol.ltd.uk/photo2.jpg
>or
>http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/rivets/rivnuts.jpg
>
>As opposed to an anchor nut:
>
>http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/bolts/minianchornut.jpg
>
>So - after all that - my question is - does anybody
>have a good reason why I should not install rivnuts to
>hold down the top forward skin with screws? (Besides
>the obvious reason that one or two may spin in the
>future - I can get back there to hold them if this
>happens).
>
>Thanks in advance for any input,
>
>Scott Laughlin
>www.cooknwithgas.com
>
>DO NOT ARCHIVE
---------------------------------
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Rivnuts or Anchor Nuts or Am I Nuts? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Bob Miller <tutuzulu@gmail.com>
I'm thinking of putting flat lock-washers on the backside of the
rivnuts before rivetting them. Anybody have any experience with this?
--
Bob Miller
601HD N722Z
Charlottesville, Virginia
Message 14
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: xl <xl@prosody.org>
>From the Modesto Bee:
http://www.modbee.com/local/story/11785074p-12504056c.html
Plane crash kills 2
Former MID chairman and flight school owner die in Oakdale orchard
By ADAM ASHTONand TIM MORAN, BEE STAFF WRITERS
Last Updated: February 9, 2006, 04:29:16 AM PST
OAKDALE, A two-seat airplane crashed Wednesday afternoon, killing a
prominent Modesto businessman and a flight school owner near Oakdale
Airport.
Sources close to the investigation said the victims were former Modesto
Irrigation District Chairman Chuck Billington, 65, and Modesto Flight
Center co-owner Dave Mesenhimer, 61.
Billington's plane, believed to be a Zenith Zodiac 601 SL, went down at
3:18 p.m. in an orchard off Sierra Road, Stanislaus County sheriff's Sgt.
Mike Parker said.
Parker said it wasn't clear where or when the plane had taken off. He also
said he wasn't sure whether the plane was landing at Oakdale Airport.
.........
.........
On Thu, 9 Feb 2006 kim.forest@surewest.net wrote:
> Does anyone have any details? Our thoughts are with them...
> do not archive
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Rivnuts or Anchor Nuts or Am I Nuts? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
Don't think it is a good idea from a dissimilar metals standpoint. They
already stand proud as it is. The washer would only make it worse.
Cy Galley - Chair,
Air Emergency Aircraft Repair
A Service Project of Chapter 75
EAA Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Miller" <tutuzulu@gmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 12:33 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Rivnuts or Anchor Nuts or Am I Nuts?
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Bob Miller <tutuzulu@gmail.com>
>
> I'm thinking of putting flat lock-washers on the backside of the
> rivnuts before rivetting them. Anybody have any experience with this?
> --
> Bob Miller
> 601HD N722Z
> Charlottesville, Virginia
>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | XL firewall/motor-mount: bolts or studs |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Craig Payne" <craig@craigandjean.com>
My relatively old XL kit came with brackets to attach the motor mount to the
firewall via studs welded to the brackets. Lately I have seen pictures where
the motor mount is fastened to the firewall via bolts. In other words with
my brackets what you see on the engine side of the firewall is a nut on a
stud holding the motor mount to the firewall. But in this apparently new
design what you see is the head of a bolt which, presumably, is threaded
into a captive nut on the bracket. Does anyone know if what I am seeing is
true? If so when did the change happen and why?
-- Craig
Message 17
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| Subject: | green scotchbrite and corrosion |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: mcr01steiner@mac.com
The operating instructions that came with the Sanchem Safegard CC-6100 state to
use the provided abrasive pad to prepare the surface. Since there was none supplied
I used some of the green stuff that I've bought at a local store. A couple
of days after the conversion coating treatment the parts looked like this:
http://homepage.mac.com/csteiner/PhotoAlbum9.html . Looks like corrosion to me !
Any ideas what to do with these parts now? I' ve treated the stabilizer skeleton
parts and riveted them befor I noticed the problem.
Christoph Steiner
601 XL
Am Montag, 06.02.06, um 22:01 Uhr (Europe/Zurich) schrieb Thilo Kind:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Thilo Kind" <thilo.kind@gmx.net>
Green dust??? Sounds, like you are using the green Scotchbrite. No good for
aluminum. Use only the darl red stuff.
Happy building
Thilo Kind
Message 18
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Brad Cohen" <bradfnp@msn.com>
O.K.,
I have been sitting back watching the Scotch-Brite "discussion" from the sidelines,
so now I am gonna weigh in.
I called 3M consumer division this afternoon and asked about the abrasive agent
in the green pads
I was told by a rep from 3M that the abrasive in the green and maroon Scotch-Brite
pads both is Alumimun Oxide. As a matter of fact, she told me that the only
difference between the two was the abrasiveness (grit), the green more coarse.
She is supposed to be faxing me the MSDS/product description showing Aluminum Oxide
as the abrasive agent. Hopefully it will be legible enough to scan into
the computer and save as a .DOC file,. If those two stipulations are met, I will
try to make it availiable to any other interested people/persons/builders...etc
Just my $0.02 worth
Brad Cohen
601xl tail & wings Scotch-Brited, prepped and primed!
Archieve at your leisure
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: XL firewall/motor-mount: bolts or studs |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Mike <rsq2424@yahoo.com>
> My relatively old XL kit came with brackets to attach the motor > mount to the
firewall via studs welded to the brackets.
That's the way mine is set up, and it now has an engine hanging on it so I hope
it's ok!
Mike Fortunato
601 XL, Jab 3300
do not archive
---------------------------------
Use Photomail to share photos without annoying attachments.
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Rivnuts or Anchor Nuts or Am I Nuts? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jim Hoak" <planejim@bellsouth.net>
Bob,
I agree with Cy, the washers under the rivnuts is not a good idea. In fact
as I've said here before, after about 50 years of messing around this stuff
I only used rivnuts for interior panels and things like that . In fact I
don't use them at all anymore. Go to the effort of installing "Nutplates"
(there are many different kinds for different applications) especially in
locations where you will be removing the screws or bolts on a regular basis.
Since the introduction of 3/32" pull or blind rivets used for attachment, it
is fairly easy to install nutplates. No need to use a rivet gun and bucking
bar . Go for nutplates every time and leave those antique rivnuts in the
bin!
Jim Hoak
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Miller" <tutuzulu@gmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 1:33 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Rivnuts or Anchor Nuts or Am I Nuts?
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Bob Miller <tutuzulu@gmail.com>
>
> I'm thinking of putting flat lock-washers on the backside of the
> rivnuts before rivetting them. Anybody have any experience with this?
> --
> Bob Miller
> 601HD N722Z
> Charlottesville, Virginia
>
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | The weight of Primer |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Ron Lendon" <rlendon@comcast.net>
Here are some of my findings as I decided what primer to use and how to apply.
I wanted to use Zinc Chromate, don't know why, and could only find it locally
in a rattle can at West Marine. Paid the high price and applied it, the following
is my notes:
> The Marine Zinc Chromate in the rattle can didn't stick as well as I thought
it should have and it was covering more area than necessary, so. . .
>
> I decided to remove it with Laquer Thinner. Had to be very careful with the skeleton
and only used a moist rag rather than a soaked rag. Didn't want the thinner
getting between the areas already riveted.
>
> The Skin Weight before removal was 3 pounds.
> After 2 pounds 13oz.
>
> Skeleton weight before 1 pounds 10oz.
> After 1 pound 8oz.
>
>
> I will weight them both again when I brush on the Self Etching primer.
>
> Using Dupont Variprime 615S Primer and 616S Converter (activator). Mix it up
in small batches and it goes a long way using a brush.
>
> After priming the skin weight is 2 pounds 14 ounces.
>
> After priming skeleton the weight is 1 pound 10 ounces.
>
>
Now you must understand the scale I used is not calibrated and it is for weighing
packages for UPS. Over all it looks like I saved 2 ounces on the skin and
nothing on the structure, but the end result looks a lot better and the 615S sticks
real good.
Surface prep was the same for either primer. Scuff with 7447 Maroon ScotchBrite,
Wipe with Laquer Thinner till the cloth stays clean.
I applied two coats with a 1 bristle brush. No booth required. More pictures
at
I plan on riveting it all together tomorrow and getting on to the stabilizer next.
--------
Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
Corvair Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=11139#11139
Message 22
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| Subject: | Ye Olde Nose Geare Strute |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Tommy Walker" <twalker@cableone.net>
Listers,
I drilled the strut bottom plate on my 701 Nose Gear. I clamped the Fork and Fork
Doubler to the plate and sat the parts down to get my drill ready to drill
through the pilot holes. I noticed that the strut seemed to be listing to one
side (I was not in the Navy, but like that word "listing").
I got my square out and placed it flat against the bottom plate. When I pulled
it up to the strut, there appears to be at 10-12 mm difference between the bottom
and the top. In other words, it looks like the strut is not welded flat
against the bottom plate.
Has anyone else had this to happen? Is it out of tolerance? It seems to me that
if it is left in this condition, then tire will set at an angle.
I sent the picture to Nick at ZAC, but havent heard back yet.
Thanks for any/all replies. I'm attaching a picture.
--------
Tommy Walker
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=11140#11140
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/ngstrut_427.jpg
Message 23
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| Subject: | Ye Olde Nose Geare Strute |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Craig Payne" <craig@craigandjean.com>
Sadly the list software discards attachments. The three solutions I know of
are:
1. Post the picture on some web page and send a link to it.
2. Contribute the picture to the Matronics photo-share page for this list
3. Send the picture directly to anyone who expresses interest.
-- Craig
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tommy Walker
Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 4:47 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Ye Olde Nose Geare Strute
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Tommy Walker" <twalker@cableone.net>
Listers,
I drilled the strut bottom plate on my 701 Nose Gear. I clamped the Fork
and Fork Doubler to the plate and sat the parts down to get my drill ready
to drill through the pilot holes. I noticed that the strut seemed to be
listing to one side (I was not in the Navy, but like that word "listing").
I got my square out and placed it flat against the bottom plate. When I
pulled it up to the strut, there appears to be at 10-12 mm difference
between the bottom and the top. In other words, it looks like the strut is
not welded flat against the bottom plate.
Has anyone else had this to happen? Is it out of tolerance? It seems to me
that if it is left in this condition, then tire will set at an angle.
I sent the picture to Nick at ZAC, but havent heard back yet.
Thanks for any/all replies. I'm attaching a picture.
--------
Tommy Walker
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=11140#11140
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/ngstrut_427.jpg
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Ye Olde Nose Geare Strute |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Mike Sinclair <mike.sinclair@att.net>
Click on the link at the bottom of the message, right under where it says
attachments. Takes you right to the picture.
Do Not Archive
Craig Payne wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Craig Payne" <craig@craigandjean.com>
>
> Sadly the list software discards attachments. The three solutions I know of
> are:
>
> 1. Post the picture on some web page and send a link to it.
> 2. Contribute the picture to the Matronics photo-share page for this list
> 3. Send the picture directly to anyone who expresses interest.
>
> -- Craig
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tommy Walker
> Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 4:47 PM
> To: zenith-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Zenith-List: Ye Olde Nose Geare Strute
>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Tommy Walker" <twalker@cableone.net>
>
> Listers,
>
> I drilled the strut bottom plate on my 701 Nose Gear. I clamped the Fork
> and Fork Doubler to the plate and sat the parts down to get my drill ready
> to drill through the pilot holes. I noticed that the strut seemed to be
> listing to one side (I was not in the Navy, but like that word "listing").
>
> I got my square out and placed it flat against the bottom plate. When I
> pulled it up to the strut, there appears to be at 10-12 mm difference
> between the bottom and the top. In other words, it looks like the strut is
> not welded flat against the bottom plate.
>
> Has anyone else had this to happen? Is it out of tolerance? It seems to me
> that if it is left in this condition, then tire will set at an angle.
>
> I sent the picture to Nick at ZAC, but havent heard back yet.
>
> Thanks for any/all replies. I'm attaching a picture.
>
> --------
> Tommy Walker
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=11140#11140
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/ngstrut_427.jpg
>
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Ye Olde Nose Geare Strute |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Craig Payne" <craig@craigandjean.com>
Learn something everyday! Was this part of the list software or has this
feature always existed?
I like the aircraft prototype leaning against the window glass.
-- Craig
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Sinclair
Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 5:42 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Ye Olde Nose Geare Strute
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Mike Sinclair <mike.sinclair@att.net>
Click on the link at the bottom of the message, right under where it says
attachments. Takes you right to the picture.
Do Not Archive
Craig Payne wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Craig Payne"
> --> <craig@craigandjean.com>
>
> Sadly the list software discards attachments. The three solutions I
> know of
> are:
>
> 1. Post the picture on some web page and send a link to it.
> 2. Contribute the picture to the Matronics photo-share page for this
> list 3. Send the picture directly to anyone who expresses interest.
>
> -- Craig
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tommy
> Walker
> Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 4:47 PM
> To: zenith-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Zenith-List: Ye Olde Nose Geare Strute
>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Tommy Walker"
> --> <twalker@cableone.net>
>
> Listers,
>
> I drilled the strut bottom plate on my 701 Nose Gear. I clamped the
> Fork and Fork Doubler to the plate and sat the parts down to get my
> drill ready to drill through the pilot holes. I noticed that the
> strut seemed to be listing to one side (I was not in the Navy, but like
that word "listing").
>
> I got my square out and placed it flat against the bottom plate. When
> I pulled it up to the strut, there appears to be at 10-12 mm
> difference between the bottom and the top. In other words, it looks
> like the strut is not welded flat against the bottom plate.
>
> Has anyone else had this to happen? Is it out of tolerance? It seems
> to me that if it is left in this condition, then tire will set at an
angle.
>
> I sent the picture to Nick at ZAC, but havent heard back yet.
>
> Thanks for any/all replies. I'm attaching a picture.
>
> --------
> Tommy Walker
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=11140#11140
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/ngstrut_427.jpg
>
>
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Ye Olde Nose Geare Strute |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Mike Sinclair <mike.sinclair@att.net>
Maybe Matt (or someone else) can clarify how this works. I just seen the link
and tried it, and it worked! Think I've seen similar on a couple of other list
postings recently. Whatever, I like the feature. And I noticed the prototype
first thing also.
Mike
Do Not Archive
Craig Payne wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Craig Payne" <craig@craigandjean.com>
>
> Learn something everyday! Was this part of the list software or has this
> feature always existed?
>
> I like the aircraft prototype leaning against the window glass.
>
> -- Craig
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Ye Olde Nose Geare Strute |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Larry McFarland <larrymc@qconline.com>
Tommy,
You're right, you need to fix it or it will "list" a bit and never look
right as well. You might even have a one-sided torque on touchdown.
It would appear that you need to saw off the plate, place the top end in
a lathe and the other near-end in a steady rest and re cut the end face
of the tube to square it. I can't imagine any other way to square one
end as perfectly. Presume the tube was cut on a saw or the jig was
not square when tacked. Lots of ways to not get this right. Not too
hard to fix after cutting it apart and then squaring it off with
a square placed against the side and across the end to check progress
correcting it. Care in welding a new plate square is even more
important.in all three axis. If they are willing to replace it for
you with a "good one" that might be your easiest course of action.
But don't accept the idea of shimming it to square.
Good luck,
Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
Tommy Walker wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Tommy Walker" <twalker@cableone.net>
>
>Listers,
>
>I drilled the strut bottom plate on my 701 Nose Gear. I clamped the Fork and
Fork Doubler to the plate and sat the parts down to get my drill ready to drill
through the pilot holes. I noticed that the strut seemed to be listing to one
side (I was not in the Navy, but like that word "listing").
>
>I got my square out and placed it flat against the bottom plate. When I pulled
it up to the strut, there appears to be at 10-12 mm difference between the bottom
and the top. In other words, it looks like the strut is not welded flat
against the bottom plate.
>
>Has anyone else had this to happen? Is it out of tolerance? It seems to me that
if it is left in this condition, then tire will set at an angle.
>
>I sent the picture to Nick at ZAC, but havent heard back yet.
>
>Thanks for any/all replies. I'm attaching a picture.
>
>--------
>Tommy Walker
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=11140#11140
>
>
>Attachments:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com//files/ngstrut_427.jpg
>
>
>
>
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Ye Olde Nose Geare Strute |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Tommy Walker" <twalker@cableone.net>
Mike and Craig,
I think this has just come about with the new Forums BBS. Have you joined it?
http://forums.matronics.com/
Tommy Walker in Alabama
Do Not Archive
mike.sinclair(at)ATT.NET wrote:
> Maybe Matt (or someone else) can clarify how this works. I just seen the link
> and tried it, and it worked! Think I've seen similar on a couple of other list
> postings recently. Whatever, I like the feature. And I noticed the prototype
> first thing also.
>
> Mike
> Do Not Archive
>
> Craig Payne wrote:
>
>
> >
> >
> > Learn something everyday! Was this part of the list software or has this
> > feature always existed?
> >
> > I like the aircraft prototype leaning against the window glass.
> >
> > -- Craig
> >
> >
>
--------
Tommy Walker
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=11178#11178
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Ye Olde Nose Geare Strute |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: NYTerminat@aol.com
Tommy
I never checked mine but that sure doesn't look right.
Bob Spudis
N701ZX
do not archive
In a message dated 2/9/2006 6:49:50 PM Eastern Standard Time,
twalker@cableone.net writes:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Tommy Walker" <twalker@cableone.net>
Listers,
I drilled the strut bottom plate on my 701 Nose Gear. I clamped the Fork and
Fork Doubler to the plate and sat the parts down to get my drill ready to
drill through the pilot holes. I noticed that the strut seemed to be listing to
one side (I was not in the Navy, but like that word "listing").
I got my square out and placed it flat against the bottom plate. When I
pulled it up to the strut, there appears to be at 10-12 mm difference between the
bottom and the top. In other words, it looks like the strut is not welded
flat against the bottom plate.
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Ye Olde Nose Geare Strute |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: doug kandle <d_kandle@velocitus.net>
I just went downstairs and checked my gear. Mine is square.
I'm sure ZAC will replace it.
At 04:46 PM 2/9/2006, you wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Tommy Walker" <twalker@cableone.net>
>
>Listers,
>
>I drilled the strut bottom plate on my 701 Nose Gear. I clamped the
>Fork and Fork Doubler to the plate and sat the parts down to get my
>drill ready to drill through the pilot holes. I noticed that the
>strut seemed to be listing to one side (I was not in the Navy, but
>like that word "listing").
>
>I got my square out and placed it flat against the bottom
>plate. When I pulled it up to the strut, there appears to be at
>10-12 mm difference between the bottom and the top. In other words,
>it looks like the strut is not welded flat against the bottom plate.
>
>Has anyone else had this to happen? Is it out of tolerance? It
>seems to me that if it is left in this condition, then tire will set
>at an angle.
>
>I sent the picture to Nick at ZAC, but havent heard back yet.
>
>Thanks for any/all replies. I'm attaching a picture.
>
>--------
>Tommy Walker
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=11140#11140
>
>
>Attachments:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com//files/ngstrut_427.jpg
>
>
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Ye Olde Nose Geare Strute |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Gary Gower <ggower_99@yahoo.com>
Neither me, in this flying time (35 hrs) never noted anything, just for curiosity
I will check it saturday... Probably not, flys great and no time to make
"repairs" now :-)
Now that you mention it, I also kind of noted the engine mount not straight,
came twisted to one side, but flys great so I left it as is :-) :-) ;-)
Saludos
Gary Gower
Couldnt resist... DO NOT ARCHIVE.
NYTerminat@aol.com wrote:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: NYTerminat@aol.com
Tommy
I never checked mine but that sure doesn't look right.
Bob Spudis
N701ZX
do not archive
In a message dated 2/9/2006 6:49:50 PM Eastern Standard Time,
twalker@cableone.net writes:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Tommy Walker"
Listers,
I drilled the strut bottom plate on my 701 Nose Gear. I clamped the Fork and
Fork Doubler to the plate and sat the parts down to get my drill ready to
drill through the pilot holes. I noticed that the strut seemed to be listing to
one side (I was not in the Navy, but like that word "listing").
I got my square out and placed it flat against the bottom plate. When I
pulled it up to the strut, there appears to be at 10-12 mm difference between the
bottom and the top. In other words, it looks like the strut is not welded
flat against the bottom plate.
---------------------------------
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