Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:07 AM - Re: Wing walk tape (Trevor Page)
2. 04:38 AM - Re: Re: Fueling high wing aircraft. (Johann G.)
3. 07:31 AM - Re: Intercom Recommendation (Tim Egan)
4. 07:38 AM - Re: Fueling high wing aircraft. (BobTezyk)
5. 08:56 AM - wing attachment and control cables (john butterfield)
6. 09:40 AM - Re: wing attachment and control cables (Jack Russell)
7. 10:50 AM - RE : Re: 601 XL wing attachments (Question for Scott Laughlin) (Carlos Sa)
8. 12:08 PM - Re: RE : Re: 601 XL wing attachments (Question for Scott Laughlin) (N5SL)
9. 02:31 PM - Re: Re: Rotx 912s Choke (jim)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Wing walk tape |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Trevor Page <webmaster@upac.ca>
Brandon, I looked all over the place for a suitable tape and found
the odd place that carried the usual black stuff but not in wide
enough sections.
As it happened I was in a hardware store (Home Hardware here in
Canada) and found something really neat. They had some vinyl non-skid
2" wide tape for bathroom shower sills. It was grey is color and
suited my two-tone (white and black) 601 perfectly. I bought enough
to do 3 strips on either side and it's been perfect even since. I
think the fact that it was vinyl made me pick it up. I was worried
that the usual paper-backed stuff you find for skateboards and such
would not stand up to washings. This stuff has no such paper backing!
Trev Page
C-IDUS 601HD R912
On Feb 19, 2006, at 11:06 PM, Brandon Tucker wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Brandon Tucker <btucke73@yahoo.com>
>
> Any recommendations from flying 601's on wing walk
> tape / compound? Has anyone used clear? I like
> clear, but suspect it is impossible to keep clean.
>
> R/
>
> Brandon Tucker
>
>
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Fueling high wing aircraft. |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Johann G." <johann@rafpostur.is>
Hello Bob.
Thank you for the input to this fueling problem. Yes this is just a
little to big for what I had in mind, but a flight club should have
something like this setup at their club.
The idea I had in mind was to be able to take the plate or board with
the fuel pump,filter and toggle switch, with me on a longer flights.
Could also have an empty container in luggage compartment, and when I
needed to refuel, I would just plug the fuel pump into the 12 V outlet
in my panel.
I would really appreciate the pictures when you have the time.
Best wishes,
Johann G.
Iceland.
do not archive.
BobTezyk wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "BobTezyk" <bob@eaglesnestestates.org>
>
>This may be overkill for what you want to accomplish but about 12 years ago, I
built a re-fueling trailer for a Cessna 150 (and later my E35 Bonanza) I owned
and ran on autogas. It worked out much better than I anticipated and more than
paid for itself over buying AVGas that fouled my plugs.
>
>It consisted of one of those cheap trailer kits (4'x8' but a 4'X6' would work),
a 100 gallon rectangular fuel tank, a marine deep cycle battery with box, a
battery float charger, a large alligator clip, a cheap work light on a retractable
reel, 25' of steel cloths line coated in vinyl, a 12 v 13 gpm pump purchased
from a farm store and a fuel totalizer.
>
>The hose that came with the pump was 12' long with a ground wire built in. I bought
a second 12' hose and a coupler to make a 24' hose. I gutted the retractable
work light and replaced the electrical cord with the cloths line and mounted
the alligator clip to the end of the cable to make a retractable ground line.
The tank, battery box, battery, grounding reel were mounted on a sheet of
1/2 inch plywood decking and the pump was mounted on the tank. The whole thing
was grounded together using 1 inch ground strap.
>
>I would fill it up on the way out to the airport and leave it in the hangar until
it required re-filling. Never had a problem with it. The motors on the gasoline
refueling pumps are sealed to avoid any sparking from the motor. I just
followed the same procedure the refueling trucks used when they refuel any other
airplane - ground the airplane to the refueler, turn on the pump, fuel, turn
off the pump, remove the ground strap from the plane.
>
>I am currently loaning it to a neighbor as I am between airplanes right now but
I will take some pictures of it in the next week or so and post them to this
thread.
>
>Regards,
>Bob Tezyk
>
>--------
>Regards,
>
>Bob Tezyk
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=13254#13254
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Intercom Recommendation |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Tim Egan" <eedetailing@qwest.net>
I've got a sigtronics intercomm in my 601hd, you
cant have a conversation with your passenger when
the radio is receiving. I find that slightly annoying,
and have a flightcomm intercomm to replace it.
TimE
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Fueling high wing aircraft. |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "BobTezyk" <bob@eaglesnestestates.org>
Bob U:
The copper wire that came with the trouble light was only 12' long. I wanted 25'
and the only way I could fit it in the reel was to use wire that had smaller
diameter than the original wire. Fortunately, the reel spring had enough turns
in it to accomodate the extra 13 feet of wire. I only have to manually push
in less than a foot of wire to get it to seat all the way down. Considering
that the reel cost was 9.99 on sale at Sears and the wire was under 5 bucks,
it sure beat the $250 they wanted for a commercially made ground reel.
Ed:
Fortunately the codes in Texas and at my local airport were not as strict. The
limit was a max storage of 150 gallons in a hangar. It was originally intended
to cover the fuel a light twin may have in it when stored in a hangar but there
is no specific wording that it had to be stored in the aircraft. I just
took advantage of that ommision. When I moved from the public hangar to my airpark
home in an unincorporated part of a rural county, there were no storage
restrictions. Several of my neighbors have 2000 gal tanks for 100LL.
I did forget to mention in the original post that I installed a water absorbing
filter on the tank as well.
Do not archive
--------
Regards,
Bob Tezyk
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=13473#13473
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | wing attachment and control cables |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: john butterfield <jdbutterfield@yahoo.com>
hi list
after looking at my fuse i started wondering how hard
it would be to attach the wings. I was thinking of
taking off the rear protion of the wing gigs and just
seeing if the holes match, but like most of my
thoughts, something always seems to be different. any
suggestions on how to make the final attachment
easier.
also, is there plenty of play in the flap arm when
attaching to the actual flap. the plans seem
confusing to me in that the diagram shows the unit in
the flap down position, but looks to me like it is the
in the flaps up position.
as to the control cables, should i attach the cables
to the stick, and rudder and run them out to the
control surfaces and then attanch them later when
assembling the machine.
as you can see, my logical minds sometimes abandons me
regards
john butterfield
XL corvair
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: wing attachment and control cables |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Jack Russell <clojan@sbcglobal.net>
John: The wings were quite a hassle for me to get attached so I don't have a "better
way" for you. I thought the flap arm was also in the up position but when
it is down the arm is horizonal.
As far as the cables, I did attach everything to the stick and rudders and just
left the other ends dangling until final assembly. One thing I did to make
it easier to safety wire was to switch ends on the upper elevator turnbuckle.
It looked impossible to safety wire it on the bottom of the stick buried in the
bottom of the console so I attached it to the upper elev horn under the fiberglass.
Works better there and when Nick came out to fresno to look at the plane
I showed it to him and he said it would be fine. The rudder turnbuckles are
also attached to the rudder horns outside of the plane. Jack (still waiting
for the faa) in Los osos ca
john butterfield <jdbutterfield@yahoo.com> wrote:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: john butterfield
hi list
after looking at my fuse i started wondering how hard
it would be to attach the wings. I was thinking of
taking off the rear protion of the wing gigs and just
seeing if the holes match, but like most of my
thoughts, something always seems to be different. any
suggestions on how to make the final attachment
easier.
also, is there plenty of play in the flap arm when
attaching to the actual flap. the plans seem
confusing to me in that the diagram shows the unit in
the flap down position, but looks to me like it is the
in the flaps up position.
as to the control cables, should i attach the cables
to the stick, and rudder and run them out to the
control surfaces and then attanch them later when
assembling the machine.
as you can see, my logical minds sometimes abandons me
regards
john butterfield
XL corvair
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: 601 XL wing attachments (Question for Scott Laughlin) |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Carlos Sa <carlosfsa@yahoo.com>
Scott, I'm getting very close to this stage of the project (in a week or two).
Would you please elaborate on the actual drilling operation, e.g., how did you
position the drill
press vs tabe and spars; how did you lock them in place; etc.
I'd appreciate every bit of info, so I can reduce risk and stress... :o)
Thanks in advance
Carlos
--- N5SL <nfivesl@yahoo.com> a crit :
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: N5SL <nfivesl@yahoo.com>
>
> Hi Terry:
>
> I created a full-sized drawing in Visio and plotted it
> 100% size.
> I then inserted the first wing spar into the center
> spar and taped the drawing to the assembled spars.
> I then clamped it all together and made everything
> match up to the drawing.
> Then I used a punch to mark the holes through the
> paper.
> I then drilled the holes and reamed them according to
> the drawings. Here's a photo just before drilling:
> http://www.cooknwithgas.com/10_19_03_SparAttachAngle.JPG
> (The wing spar is on the left and center spar on the
> right)
>
> Here's what it looked like bolted together:
> http://www.cooknwithgas.com/10_24_03_Dihedral.JPG
Lche-vitrine ou lche-cran ?
magasinage.yahoo.ca
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: 601 XL wing attachments (Question for Scott |
Laughlin)
--> Zenith-List message posted by: N5SL <nfivesl@yahoo.com>
Hi Carlos:
I followed the drawings very closely - mostly 6-W-4.
In preparing my response to your question, I
remembered why I didn't use bolts when I drilled the
holes because the holes were smaller than the bolt
diameter. You have to drill the holes smaller, then
ream them to 5/16". This makes a very tight fit for
the bolt.
Using a Microsoft product called "Visio" I drew an
exact drawing with all the dimensions of the center
spar - full size. It included the rivets, holes, caps
and everything. Then I drew and exact copy of the
right spar with rivets, holes and everything (the
first few feet of the spar anyway). Then I "grouped"
each piece (wing spar and center spar) so that I could
move them around as a unit. I lined up the wing spar
in position with the center spar. This way I could
set the dihedral and watch where the bolt holes would
be located - remember the holes will line up slanted
in the center spar and in a straight line with the
wing spar caps.
The trick here was to see the hole positions in the
spar caps through the caps in the center spar with the
use of a drawing. The 6-W-4 gives dimensions where to
put the holes in the wing spar caps but not in the
center spar. Since you have to drill the holes through
the center spar first, you need to know where these
will fall or you will have holes on the wrong place in
the wing spar. Does this make sense?
OK, so I had the drawing plotted to full size as shown
in the photo below. Then I laid out the center spar
on my 12' long table and inserted one wing spar. I
put the drawing on top of the assembly and lined up
the rivets, spar caps, flanges, etc. My drawing was
very accurate and matched up perfectly to the spars
thanks to excellent craftsmanship by Jason Isley who
built my spars (Thanks Jason).
After fiddling with it for a while making sure
everything was in line, I clamped everything tight and
drilled a vertical hole (in the proper size for the
reamer). That's when I was stumped because I needed
to pin this in place. I used a drill bit for the
first one, but then I had to pin the second one. If
you want to buy a few drill bits in the proper size
stated by the reamer, then you will be fine.
Next with all the holes drilled and pinned, I removed
the pins one-at-a-time and reamed the holes and
inserted bolts.
I can't help you with the stress because I had plenty
of it. Check, recheck and then check again before
drilling. My biggest worry was that I had something
backwards, but lo-and-behold it is right and the first
wing fit.
Good luck and let me know if any of the above is not
clear.
Scott Laughlin
www.cooknwithgas.com
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Carlos Sa
> <carlosfsa@yahoo.com>
> Would you please elaborate on the actual drilling
> operation, e.g., how did you position the drill
> press vs tabe and spars; how did you lock them in
> place; etc.
>
> I'd appreciate every bit of info, so I can reduce
> risk and stress... :o)
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Carlos
>
> --- N5SL <nfivesl@yahoo.com> a crit :
>
> > --> Zenith-List message posted by: N5SL
> <nfivesl@yahoo.com>
>Here's a photo just before
> drilling:
http://www.cooknwithgas.com/10_19_03_SparAttachAngle.JPG
> > (The wing spar is on the left and center spar on
> the right)
> > Here's what it looked like bolted together:
> > http://www.cooknwithgas.com/10_24_03_Dihedral.JPG
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Rotx 912s Choke |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "jim" <jim@pellien.com>
All,
David's absolutely right. I start my engine using the same start-up procedure,
and it works perfectly every time......even when it is 19 degrees as it was yesterday.
The choke gets easier to use with time. I now have 125 hours and it
almost stays all the way out by itself.
Jim
Jim Pellien
Mid-Atlantic Sports Planes
The Mid-Atlantic Center of SportsPlanes.com
www.MASPL.com
703-313-4818
Jim@Pellien.com
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "David X" <dxj@comcast.net>
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "David X" <dxj@comcast.net>
>
>My choke is very stiff as well. With proper cable lubrication, it will settle
to the off position in a few seconds on its own. Throttle full off, friction lock
on, choke full on, hold choke with left hand, turn key with right hand.
>
>The previous two posts are pretty much the same as written in the Rotax operator's
manual. The throttle should be full off, or just a tad forward of off. No
need to pump the throttle in and out like a Lycoming or Continental. You just
risk starting a fire. You really don't need to run the choke more than a few
seconds after start (it's not needed and it blackens the plugs if you run choke
for very long).
>
>I've started in 20F degree weather with this proceedure ... not even a hesitation
in start-up. After start-up, keep RPM between 2000 and 2500 until you see
the oil and water temp guages start to move, then you can rev a little higher
to get it rolling down the taxiway.
>
>--------
>Zodiac 601 XL - CZAW Built - Rotax 912S
>DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=13215#13215
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Sent via the WebMail system at mail.pellien.com
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|