Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:59 PM - Re: Mazda engine from MX3 - 6 CYL, 1.8 L. 140HP (LarryMcFarland)
2. 04:41 PM - Re: Insurance - 701 (nyterminat@aol.com)
3. 04:58 PM - Smiles (DVanvoorhi@aol.com)
4. 05:11 PM - Forced landing in Ohio (Bryan Martin)
5. 05:11 PM - Re: Smiles (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
6. 05:13 PM - Re: Smiles (Phil Maxson)
7. 07:37 PM - Re: Forced landing in Ohio (n801bh@netzero.com)
8. 09:14 PM - Attaching rubber trim to the canopy (Fred or Sandy Hulen)
9. 09:58 PM - Re: Smiles (Doug Eatman)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Mazda engine from MX3 - 6 CYL, 1.8 L. 140HP |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: LarryMcFarland <larry@macsmachine.com>
Christian,
Virtually every engine is suitable for aviation if the application is
correct. The 140 hp on 1.8 Liter suggests
it works pretty hard doing high speed road work in a car. The
difficulty would be putting an ideal gear reduction
on it to obtain a best combination of torque and rpm for a practical
prop. This might restrict the engine to a lighter and or
slower aircraft than you desired. If it did fit an aircraft you were
interested in, then you'd only have to find a way to
put an exhaust, carburetor, ignition and cooling system in place that
will continue to balance output while cooling, feeding and
controlling the decibel level for the engine. The question also gets
into the kind of bearings and crank that will
be exchanging harmonics that may differ from those dampened by a
transmission that were best for a car, but could be
thoroughly destructive with a prop attached. There's only one way to
find out and that's to have at it and work it out.
I'm not an engine guy, but this is where you're at.
Good luck,
Larry McFarland - 601HDS with a Stratus-Ram Subaru at www.macsmachine.com
Christian Tremblay wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: Christian Tremblay <cj.tremblay@videotron.ca>
>
>Hi,
>Somebody can tell me if this engine is suitable for aviation?
>Mazda engine from MX3 - 6 CYL, 1.8 L. 140HP
>Thanks,
>
>
>
>Christian T.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Insurance - 701 |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: nyterminat@aol.com
Cost me $1600 through EAA and Falcon. I think I used $45,000 or $40,000 as hull
coverage
Bob Spudis
N701ZX/ CH701/912S
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Harding <charding@houston.rr.com>
Sent: Sat, 8 Apr 2006 17:31:31 -0700
Subject: Zenith-List: Insurance - 701
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Chris Harding" <charding@houston.rr.com>
I think I'm fairly near to securing a deal on a nice, lightly used 701. Does
anyone have any suggestions for the best deals in insurance? I'm based in the
USA.
Thanks,
Chris Harding
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=27072#27072
Message 3
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: DVanvoorhi@aol.com
I mishandled the nose skin on my 601 HD and generated several "smiles" (or
maybe they should be called "frowns"). Is there anything that can be done to
remove them before installing the piece? Is it better to live with them now
and take them out with filler after installation?
Dirk Van Voorhis (scratch building in Riverside CA)
Message 4
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| Subject: | Forced landing in Ohio |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Bryan Martin <bryanmmartin@comcast.net>
I was planning to fly down to Sun 'N' Fun on the first of April in my
Zodiac. The weather that morning in the Detroit area was crappy so I waited
around until noon. At that time there was a 2000 foot overcast with 3000
foot tops and it had quit raining. The weather south of Ohio was reported as
clear so I decided to take off and see. I flew under the Detroit class B at
about 1500 feet and started to see some breaks in the overcast.
An hour into the flight I was just southeast of the Toledo class C when the
engine suddenly started shaking and lost about 600 RPM. I was about 5 miles
north of Wood County Airport (1G0) so I pulled the throttle and started
gliding towards the airport. All my guages were in the green and the engine
stayed running but very rough. When I got down to about 200 feet above the
ground with nothing but plowed fields and a crowded freeway below me I
realized I wasn't going to be able to glide to the airport. The engine was
still making power so I shoved the throttle back in and managed to get about
200 feet per minute climb rate out of it. It was enough to get me lined up
on runway 18 with a 15 knot crosswind directly from the west. I called up
the unicom and anounced my intentions and then made a safe landing.
After I taxied up to the terminal, I shut it down and got out and started
looking for the trouble. Everything looked OK from the outside of the
engine. No oil or coolant leaks and no appearant damage. I didn't have
enough tools with me to do muc troubleshooting so I barrowed the courtesy
car to go down to the store to buy a spark plug wrench. I finally determined
that I had no compression on the number 1 cylinder and when I pulled that
plug, there was impact damage to the electrode. My preliminary determination
was some sort of valve train failure. Since I couldn't do much to fix the
problem right then and it wasn't fit to fly home, I tied it down for the
night and called to reserve a rental car.
The folks at Wood County treated me very well they even offered to put the
plane in a hangar for the night. One of the instructors was giving a lesson
that day and gave me a ride up to Toledo Express Airport so I could pick up
my rental, saving me the expense of a taxi ride.
I drove the rental home that night and the next day drove up to Midland to
get my trailer and my dad and brother to help me recover the airplane. We
then drove down to Bowling Green to tear down the plane for the haul back
home. The people at the airport let me use put the plane in a hangar to
dissasemble it for the trip back. It's a good thing they did, it was pouring
down rain by the time we got done loading in the trailer. We got the plane
back to my hangar at Ray and got the rental returned to the local depot and
got back to Midland at about 2 AM. Monday evening, I decided to use some of
my frequent flyer miles to complete the trip to Lakeland and let the
airplane wait until I got back.
Today I finally got to my hangar to start tearing down the engine to see
what went wrong. I heard stories about valve guide failures in some of the
EA81 engines so I thought I might find the same thing with mine. It turns
out that the problem wasn't the valve guides. A big chunk of the intake
valve in the number 1 cylinder broke off and did mayhem inside the engine.
The piston had a bunch of holes in it and had several cracks clear across
the face of the piston. The piston skirt must also be all broken up because
you can rock the piston back and forth in the cylinder. There also seems to
be some collateral damage to the intake valve in the number 3 cylinder,
probably by bits of metal getting blown back into the intake manifold. Our
resident engine expert took a look at the valve and decided that it was a
fatigue failure possibly caused by a slight misalignment of the valve. There
is some evidence that the valve was hitting harder on one side of the port
than the other. I've put 145 hours on the engiine since I bought from
Stratus.
I plan on pulling off the other head to check it and will probably send both
of them off to RAM for rebuild.
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL, Stratus Subaru.
Message 5
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
Depends on if you intend to paint the aircraft or not...If you are then
you just have a short term feature.
If you intend t leave it bare you will have a permanent feature....I
doubt there is any way to remove the frowns.
Frank 601HDS 394 hours
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
DVanvoorhi@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, April 09, 2006 4:57 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Smiles
--> Zenith-List message posted by: DVanvoorhi@aol.com
I mishandled the nose skin on my 601 HD and generated several "smiles"
(or maybe they should be called "frowns"). Is there anything that can
be done to remove them before installing the piece? Is it better to
live with them now and take them out with filler after installation?
Dirk Van Voorhis (scratch building in Riverside CA)
Message 6
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Phil Maxson" <pmaxpmax@hotmail.com>
I had the same problem on my leading edges of my wings. Bill Clapp, Corvair
Aviator and Car Restorer, gently worked them out by flexing the metal with a
small suction cup. After flexing it many times, it came close to being like
new. My leading edges are now polished and look OK.
Phil Maxson
601XL/Corvair
>From: DVanvoorhi@aol.com
>Subject: Zenith-List: Smiles
>Date: Sun, 9 Apr 2006 19:57:07 EDT
>
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: DVanvoorhi@aol.com
>
>I mishandled the nose skin on my 601 HD and generated several "smiles" (or
>maybe they should be called "frowns"). Is there anything that can be done
>to
>remove them before installing the piece? Is it better to live with them
>now
>and take them out with filler after installation?
>
>Dirk Van Voorhis (scratch building in Riverside CA)
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Forced landing in Ohio |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "n801bh@netzero.com" <n801bh@netzero.com>
Glad to hear you and the plane are OK. Good job on the forced landing too....................
do not archive
Glad to hear you and the plane are OK. Good job on the forced landing too....................
do not archive
Message 8
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| Subject: | Attaching rubber trim to the canopy |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Fred or Sandy Hulen" <hulens61@comcast.net>
I posted the information below about a year ago, hopefully it remains in the
archives. My 601HDS now has over 230 hours on it and the rubber trim remains
securely attached in all places. This method is certainly long-term reliable and
I
think it's by far the easiest way to glue the rubber trim to the canopy.
++ The magic bullet for attaching rubber to the canopy is a product called "Poly
Zap" made by Pacer Technology. It is very specialized instant glue for adhering
the
slippery plastics together like Nylon, Delran, etc. Because is specialized you
may
not find it on the shelf at your local hobby shop, but you can easily find and
buy
it on-line. Application is so simple you essentially can't mess up if you just
take
your time. Most people think they have to spread a continuous amount of glue from
one end to the other under the rubber and at the same time keep things lined up
and
worry about glue oozing out. Nope... just put the rubber strip in place where
it's
supposed to be on the canopy, then lift the edge of the rubber up at one end and
place a small dot (about 1/8" in size, doesn't take much) about half way down the
depth of the rubber seal and let the rubber gently come back in contact with the
canopy. When that end is "tacked", move to the other end, pull the slack out of
the rubber and tack that end. Now it's held in place. Then, go to the middle,
half
way between the two glue dots, lift the rubber up at that point and place another
dot down in there. Then do it again between that middle dot and each of the end
dots and so on, and so on until you have these dots applied about every 3 or 4
inches. Do the same on the inside edge of the canopy and it's done. This type
of
instant glue has a shorter shelf life than some of the others so keep it in a
plastic bag in the refrigerator and it will remain good to use for a long time.
My
aircraft has been flying for 4 years now and NOT ONE of those glue dots has let
go.
Tail winds..... Fred Hulen
Message 9
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Doug Eatman" <pilotdna@hotmail.com>
If by smiles you mean small creases/dings, I found that the suggestion in
the rudder construction manual of pressing and rolling a regular steel spoon
(from your kitchen, not a special tool) on the back side of the metal will
work them right out. That was on .016 though, I haven't progressed as far
as the fuselage yet so I don't know how thick your part is. I suspect .025
is still workable with this method (and a strong thumb to push into the
spoon.)
I learned this after my first shipment of metal from Aircraft Spruce arrived
poorly crated and dinged to garbage, and they refused to take it back after
numerous phone calls. I got the piece I wanted to use for my stab skin
satisfactorily straight with the spoon method (backed by plywood while
"spooning" out the dings), and found that it turns a real crease into a
barely visible wavy spot that you wouldn't notice without really looking for
it. Sure beat not building for a year while saving pennies for more metal
(I'm a 20 year old engineering student).
Do Not Archive (or order metal from Aircraft spruce!)
Douglas Eatman
601XL scrap build/corvair
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