---------------------------------------------------------- Zenith-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Sun 04/09/06: 9 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 02:59 PM - Re: Mazda engine from MX3 - 6 CYL, 1.8 L. 140HP (LarryMcFarland) 2. 04:41 PM - Re: Insurance - 701 (nyterminat@aol.com) 3. 04:58 PM - Smiles (DVanvoorhi@aol.com) 4. 05:11 PM - Forced landing in Ohio (Bryan Martin) 5. 05:11 PM - Re: Smiles (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)) 6. 05:13 PM - Re: Smiles (Phil Maxson) 7. 07:37 PM - Re: Forced landing in Ohio (n801bh@netzero.com) 8. 09:14 PM - Attaching rubber trim to the canopy (Fred or Sandy Hulen) 9. 09:58 PM - Re: Smiles (Doug Eatman) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 02:59:51 PM PST US From: LarryMcFarland Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Mazda engine from MX3 - 6 CYL, 1.8 L. 140HP --> Zenith-List message posted by: LarryMcFarland Christian, Virtually every engine is suitable for aviation if the application is correct. The 140 hp on 1.8 Liter suggests it works pretty hard doing high speed road work in a car. The difficulty would be putting an ideal gear reduction on it to obtain a best combination of torque and rpm for a practical prop. This might restrict the engine to a lighter and or slower aircraft than you desired. If it did fit an aircraft you were interested in, then you'd only have to find a way to put an exhaust, carburetor, ignition and cooling system in place that will continue to balance output while cooling, feeding and controlling the decibel level for the engine. The question also gets into the kind of bearings and crank that will be exchanging harmonics that may differ from those dampened by a transmission that were best for a car, but could be thoroughly destructive with a prop attached. There's only one way to find out and that's to have at it and work it out. I'm not an engine guy, but this is where you're at. Good luck, Larry McFarland - 601HDS with a Stratus-Ram Subaru at www.macsmachine.com Christian Tremblay wrote: >--> Zenith-List message posted by: Christian Tremblay > >Hi, >Somebody can tell me if this engine is suitable for aviation? >Mazda engine from MX3 - 6 CYL, 1.8 L. 140HP >Thanks, > > > >Christian T. > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 04:41:09 PM PST US From: nyterminat@aol.com Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Insurance - 701 --> Zenith-List message posted by: nyterminat@aol.com Cost me $1600 through EAA and Falcon. I think I used $45,000 or $40,000 as hull coverage Bob Spudis N701ZX/ CH701/912S -----Original Message----- From: Chris Harding Sent: Sat, 8 Apr 2006 17:31:31 -0700 Subject: Zenith-List: Insurance - 701 --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Chris Harding" I think I'm fairly near to securing a deal on a nice, lightly used 701. Does anyone have any suggestions for the best deals in insurance? I'm based in the USA. Thanks, Chris Harding Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=27072#27072 ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 04:58:47 PM PST US From: DVanvoorhi@aol.com Subject: Zenith-List: Smiles --> Zenith-List message posted by: DVanvoorhi@aol.com I mishandled the nose skin on my 601 HD and generated several "smiles" (or maybe they should be called "frowns"). Is there anything that can be done to remove them before installing the piece? Is it better to live with them now and take them out with filler after installation? Dirk Van Voorhis (scratch building in Riverside CA) ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 05:11:53 PM PST US Subject: Zenith-List: Forced landing in Ohio From: Bryan Martin --> Zenith-List message posted by: Bryan Martin I was planning to fly down to Sun 'N' Fun on the first of April in my Zodiac. The weather that morning in the Detroit area was crappy so I waited around until noon. At that time there was a 2000 foot overcast with 3000 foot tops and it had quit raining. The weather south of Ohio was reported as clear so I decided to take off and see. I flew under the Detroit class B at about 1500 feet and started to see some breaks in the overcast. An hour into the flight I was just southeast of the Toledo class C when the engine suddenly started shaking and lost about 600 RPM. I was about 5 miles north of Wood County Airport (1G0) so I pulled the throttle and started gliding towards the airport. All my guages were in the green and the engine stayed running but very rough. When I got down to about 200 feet above the ground with nothing but plowed fields and a crowded freeway below me I realized I wasn't going to be able to glide to the airport. The engine was still making power so I shoved the throttle back in and managed to get about 200 feet per minute climb rate out of it. It was enough to get me lined up on runway 18 with a 15 knot crosswind directly from the west. I called up the unicom and anounced my intentions and then made a safe landing. After I taxied up to the terminal, I shut it down and got out and started looking for the trouble. Everything looked OK from the outside of the engine. No oil or coolant leaks and no appearant damage. I didn't have enough tools with me to do muc troubleshooting so I barrowed the courtesy car to go down to the store to buy a spark plug wrench. I finally determined that I had no compression on the number 1 cylinder and when I pulled that plug, there was impact damage to the electrode. My preliminary determination was some sort of valve train failure. Since I couldn't do much to fix the problem right then and it wasn't fit to fly home, I tied it down for the night and called to reserve a rental car. The folks at Wood County treated me very well they even offered to put the plane in a hangar for the night. One of the instructors was giving a lesson that day and gave me a ride up to Toledo Express Airport so I could pick up my rental, saving me the expense of a taxi ride. I drove the rental home that night and the next day drove up to Midland to get my trailer and my dad and brother to help me recover the airplane. We then drove down to Bowling Green to tear down the plane for the haul back home. The people at the airport let me use put the plane in a hangar to dissasemble it for the trip back. It's a good thing they did, it was pouring down rain by the time we got done loading in the trailer. We got the plane back to my hangar at Ray and got the rental returned to the local depot and got back to Midland at about 2 AM. Monday evening, I decided to use some of my frequent flyer miles to complete the trip to Lakeland and let the airplane wait until I got back. Today I finally got to my hangar to start tearing down the engine to see what went wrong. I heard stories about valve guide failures in some of the EA81 engines so I thought I might find the same thing with mine. It turns out that the problem wasn't the valve guides. A big chunk of the intake valve in the number 1 cylinder broke off and did mayhem inside the engine. The piston had a bunch of holes in it and had several cracks clear across the face of the piston. The piston skirt must also be all broken up because you can rock the piston back and forth in the cylinder. There also seems to be some collateral damage to the intake valve in the number 3 cylinder, probably by bits of metal getting blown back into the intake manifold. Our resident engine expert took a look at the valve and decided that it was a fatigue failure possibly caused by a slight misalignment of the valve. There is some evidence that the valve was hitting harder on one side of the port than the other. I've put 145 hours on the engiine since I bought from Stratus. I plan on pulling off the other head to check it and will probably send both of them off to RAM for rebuild. -- Bryan Martin N61BM, CH 601 XL, Stratus Subaru. ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 05:11:53 PM PST US Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Smiles From: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" Depends on if you intend to paint the aircraft or not...If you are then you just have a short term feature. If you intend t leave it bare you will have a permanent feature....I doubt there is any way to remove the frowns. Frank 601HDS 394 hours Do not archive -----Original Message----- From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of DVanvoorhi@aol.com Sent: Sunday, April 09, 2006 4:57 PM Subject: Zenith-List: Smiles --> Zenith-List message posted by: DVanvoorhi@aol.com I mishandled the nose skin on my 601 HD and generated several "smiles" (or maybe they should be called "frowns"). Is there anything that can be done to remove them before installing the piece? Is it better to live with them now and take them out with filler after installation? Dirk Van Voorhis (scratch building in Riverside CA) ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 05:13:31 PM PST US From: "Phil Maxson" Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Smiles --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Phil Maxson" I had the same problem on my leading edges of my wings. Bill Clapp, Corvair Aviator and Car Restorer, gently worked them out by flexing the metal with a small suction cup. After flexing it many times, it came close to being like new. My leading edges are now polished and look OK. Phil Maxson 601XL/Corvair >From: DVanvoorhi@aol.com >Subject: Zenith-List: Smiles >Date: Sun, 9 Apr 2006 19:57:07 EDT > >--> Zenith-List message posted by: DVanvoorhi@aol.com > >I mishandled the nose skin on my 601 HD and generated several "smiles" (or >maybe they should be called "frowns"). Is there anything that can be done >to >remove them before installing the piece? Is it better to live with them >now >and take them out with filler after installation? > >Dirk Van Voorhis (scratch building in Riverside CA) ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 07:37:30 PM PST US From: "n801bh@netzero.com" Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Forced landing in Ohio --> Zenith-List message posted by: "n801bh@netzero.com" Glad to hear you and the plane are OK. Good job on the forced landing too.................... do not archive Glad to hear you and the plane are OK. Good job on the forced landing too.................... do not archive ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 09:14:09 PM PST US From: "Fred or Sandy Hulen" Subject: Zenith-List: Attaching rubber trim to the canopy --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Fred or Sandy Hulen" I posted the information below about a year ago, hopefully it remains in the archives. My 601HDS now has over 230 hours on it and the rubber trim remains securely attached in all places. This method is certainly long-term reliable and I think it's by far the easiest way to glue the rubber trim to the canopy. ++ The magic bullet for attaching rubber to the canopy is a product called "Poly Zap" made by Pacer Technology. It is very specialized instant glue for adhering the slippery plastics together like Nylon, Delran, etc. Because is specialized you may not find it on the shelf at your local hobby shop, but you can easily find and buy it on-line. Application is so simple you essentially can't mess up if you just take your time. Most people think they have to spread a continuous amount of glue from one end to the other under the rubber and at the same time keep things lined up and worry about glue oozing out. Nope... just put the rubber strip in place where it's supposed to be on the canopy, then lift the edge of the rubber up at one end and place a small dot (about 1/8" in size, doesn't take much) about half way down the depth of the rubber seal and let the rubber gently come back in contact with the canopy. When that end is "tacked", move to the other end, pull the slack out of the rubber and tack that end. Now it's held in place. Then, go to the middle, half way between the two glue dots, lift the rubber up at that point and place another dot down in there. Then do it again between that middle dot and each of the end dots and so on, and so on until you have these dots applied about every 3 or 4 inches. Do the same on the inside edge of the canopy and it's done. This type of instant glue has a shorter shelf life than some of the others so keep it in a plastic bag in the refrigerator and it will remain good to use for a long time. My aircraft has been flying for 4 years now and NOT ONE of those glue dots has let go. Tail winds..... Fred Hulen ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 09:58:42 PM PST US From: "Doug Eatman" Subject: Zenith-List: RE: Smiles --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Doug Eatman" If by smiles you mean small creases/dings, I found that the suggestion in the rudder construction manual of pressing and rolling a regular steel spoon (from your kitchen, not a special tool) on the back side of the metal will work them right out. That was on .016 though, I haven't progressed as far as the fuselage yet so I don't know how thick your part is. I suspect .025 is still workable with this method (and a strong thumb to push into the spoon.) I learned this after my first shipment of metal from Aircraft Spruce arrived poorly crated and dinged to garbage, and they refused to take it back after numerous phone calls. I got the piece I wanted to use for my stab skin satisfactorily straight with the spoon method (backed by plywood while "spooning" out the dings), and found that it turns a real crease into a barely visible wavy spot that you wouldn't notice without really looking for it. Sure beat not building for a year while saving pennies for more metal (I'm a 20 year old engineering student). Do Not Archive (or order metal from Aircraft spruce!) Douglas Eatman 601XL scrap build/corvair