Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:36 AM - Re: Smiles (LarryMcFarland)
2. 06:36 AM - Re: Re: Smiles. now aircraft spruce (n801bh@netzero.com)
3. 09:04 AM - Re: Re: Smiles. now aircraft spruce (peter kleinjan)
4. 09:17 AM - Re: Re: Smiles. now aircraft spruce (Paul Mulwitz)
5. 09:38 AM - Bing Carb Type 64 adjustments INNOCENT GLOBAL 0.0000 1.0000 -2.0210 (LarryMcFarland)
6. 09:41 AM - Re: Re: Smiles. now aircraft spruce (Aaron Gustafson)
7. 09:48 AM - Re: Re: Re: Smiles. now aircraft spruce ()
8. 11:04 AM - Re: Smiles. now aircraft spruce (Mitch Hodges)
9. 11:10 AM - 601HDS: When to attach Ailerons (Mitch Hodges)
10. 11:26 AM - Re: 601HDS: When to attach Ailerons (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
11. 11:32 AM - Re: 601HDS: When to attach Ailerons (Craig Payne)
12. 11:40 AM - Re: 601HDS: When to attach Ailerons ()
13. 12:35 PM - Re: Smiles (Robert Schoenberger)
14. 12:37 PM - Re: 601HDS: When to attach Ailerons (LarryMcFarland)
15. 01:11 PM - Re: 601HDS: When to attach Ailerons (Mitch Hodges)
16. 01:40 PM - Re: Re: Smiles. now aircraft spruce (Leo Gates)
17. 02:11 PM - Re: Re: Smiles. now aircraft spruce (Robert Schoenberger)
18. 02:50 PM - Engine air filter (MR M VITA)
19. 04:29 PM - Bolt spacing (Bill Naumuk)
20. 05:10 PM - Re: Engine air filter (JAPhillipsGA@aol.com)
21. 05:10 PM - Re: Bolt spacing (LarryMcFarland)
22. 05:20 PM - Zenith Builders Gel-Coating (JAPhillipsGA@aol.com)
23. 05:39 PM - 601 XL available? (Dan Ribb)
24. 05:55 PM - Re: Zenith Builders Gel-Coating (ljkyle)
25. 05:58 PM - Re: Bolt spacing (Bill Naumuk)
26. 06:02 PM - Re: Zenith Builders Gel-Coating (JAPhillipsGA@aol.com)
27. 06:21 PM - Re: Bolt spacing (Bill Naumuk)
28. 06:21 PM - Re: 601 XL available? (Daniel Vandenberg)
29. 07:15 PM - Re: 601HDS: When to attach Ailerons (Paul Mulwitz)
30. 11:19 PM - (noel anderson)
31. 11:57 PM - Re: 601 XL available? (Ron Pizer)
Message 1
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: LarryMcFarland <larry@macsmachine.com>
Dirk,
I'd consider tracing it to another piece and make another at this point
if you've not attached it.
Another consideration, you might want to make the forward top skin
removable for access to your
panel etc. As scratch builder, you've an advantage in deciding these
things. I've got most of the detail
covered on my website that shows how it's done. The FW top skin has
been off a good number of times
since the Airworthiness and paid its value the first time it had to come
off.
If you need more info on this just ask.
Good luck,
Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
DVanvoorhi@aol.com wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: DVanvoorhi@aol.com
>
>I mishandled the nose skin on my 601 HD and generated several "smiles" (or
>maybe they should be called "frowns"). Is there anything that can be done to
>remove them before installing the piece? Is it better to live with them now
>and take them out with filler after installation?
>
>Dirk Van Voorhis (scratch building in Riverside CA)
>
>
>
>
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: RE: Smiles. now aircraft spruce |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "n801bh@netzero.com" <n801bh@netzero.com>
The last few orders from Aircraft Spruce I placed got sooooooooooooooooo screwed
up I really wanted to wring their necks,,Of course when I called to complain
they tried to spin it around to look like it was a simple mistake on their part
and "I need them" and not" they need us". What they really need is a BOYCOTT
on sales. They are so arrogent now ,Jim Irwin , the owner probably won't even
get it though. Oh yeah... I want this archived too.
Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
-- "Doug Eatman" <pilotdna@hotmail.com> wrote:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Doug Eatman" <pilotdna@hotmail.com>
If by smiles you mean small creases/dings, I found that the suggestion in
the rudder construction manual of pressing and rolling a regular steel spoon
(from your kitchen, not a special tool) on the back side of the metal will
work them right out. That was on .016 though, I haven't progressed as far
as the fuselage yet so I don't know how thick your part is. I suspect .025
is still workable with this method (and a strong thumb to push into the
spoon.)
I learned this after my first shipment of metal from Aircraft Spruce arrived
poorly crated and dinged to garbage, and they refused to take it back after
numerous phone calls. I got the piece I wanted to use for my stab skin
satisfactorily straight with the spoon method (backed by plywood while
"spooning" out the dings), and found that it turns a real crease into a
barely visible wavy spot that you wouldn't notice without really looking for
it. Sure beat not building for a year while saving pennies for more metal
(I'm a 20 year old engineering student).
Do Not Archive (or order metal from Aircraft spruce!)
Douglas Eatman
601XL scrap build/corvair
The last few orders from Aircraft Spruce I placed got sooooooooooooooooo screwed
up I really wanted to wring their necks,,Of course whenI called to complain
they tried to spin it around to look like it was a simple mistake on their part
and "I need them" and not" they need us". What they really need is a BOYCOTT
on sales. They are so arrogent now ,Jim Irwin , the owner probably won't even
get it though. Oh yeah... I want this archived too.
BenHaas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
--"DougEatman"pilotdna@hotmail.comwrote:
--Zenith-Listmessagepostedby:"DougEatman"pilotdna@hotmail.com
Ifbysmilesyoumeansmallcreases/dings,Ifoundthatthesuggestionin
therudderconstructionmanualofpressingandrollingaregularsteelspoon
(fromyourkitchen,notaspecialtool)onthebacksideofthemetalwill
workthemrightout.Thatwason.016though,Ihaven'tprogressedasfar
asthefuselageyetsoIdon'tknowhowthickyourpartis.Isuspect.025
isstillworkablewiththismethod(andastrongthumbtopushintothe
spoon.)
IlearnedthisaftermyfirstshipmentofmetalfromAircraftSprucearrived
poorlycratedanddingedtogarbage,andtheyrefusedtotakeitbackafter
numerousphonecalls.IgotthepieceIwantedtouseformystabskin
satisfactorilystraightwiththespoonmethod(backedbyplywoodwhile
"spooning"outthedings),andfoundthatitturnsarealcreaseintoa
barelyvisiblewavyspotthatyouwouldn'tnoticewithoutreallylookingfor
it.Surebeatnotbuildingforayearwhilesavingpenniesformoremetal
(I'ma20yearoldengineeringstudent).
DoNotArchive(orordermetalfromAircraftspruce!)
DouglasEatman
601XLscrapbuild/corvair
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: RE: Smiles. now aircraft spruce |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "peter kleinjan" <pkleinjan@execulink.com>
I agree, a simple order of solid rivets is taking 3 weeks to ship? no more
aircraft spruce for me!
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: RE: Smiles. now aircraft spruce |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Paul Mulwitz <p.mulwitz@worldnet.att.net>
Maybe it is just luck of the draw. I have been getting excellent
service from Aircraft Spruce. They always ship the same day I order,
and usually have everything I want in stock.
I guess different folks get different experiences.
Paul
XL wings
At 06:28 AM 4/10/2006, you wrote:
>The last few orders from Aircraft Spruce I placed got
>sooooooooooooooooo screwed up I really wanted to wring their
>necks,,Of course when I called to complain they tried to spin it
>around to look like it was a simple mistake on their part and "I
>need them" and not" they need us". What they really need is a
>BOYCOTT on sales. They are so arrogent now ,Jim Irwin , the owner
>probably won't even get it though. Oh yeah... I want this archived too.
>
>Ben Ha
---------------------------------------------
Paul Mulwitz
32013 NE Dial Road
Camas, WA 98607
---------------------------------------------
Message 5
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Subject: | Bing Carb Type 64 adjustments INNOCENT GLOBAL 0.0000 1.0000 |
-2.0210
--> Zenith-List message posted by: LarryMcFarland <larry@macsmachine.com>
Hi guys,
The necessity of changing jets can be a stress raiser if you've not done
it before, but I've made most of the mistakes and can finally comment
that theres little to worry about, but there are a few things that make
the job safer and easier for Bing Type 64 carburetors.
Disassembly can be done right on the engine and should not be a problem
with the Stratus Subaru setup. Fuel valves should be shut off. You do
need a Bing Manual the first time or so as it offers very specific
guidance on everything.
Air filters are removed and the intake tube opening covered with a shop
rag to prevent dropping anything into the intake. Then the throttle
cables and enrichment (choke) cable lugs need to be disconnected.
Rotating the enrichment lever against the spring allows removing the lug
and cable. The throttle cable bracket is disconnected at one end to
allow it to be pivoted from over the enrichment return spring. The
spring is disconnected and set aside. Two large Phillips top cover
screws are removed. Anything that would prevent lifting the cover
vertically a couple of inches should be removed.
The throttle is closed to prevent anything from dropping into the
intake. The cap, jet needle housing, diaphragm and large spring are
lifted off and rotated out of the way. The large spring and jet needle
housing is set aside. Note the jet protruding inside the bottom of the
carburetor body.
The jet needle is accessible only after a large blade screwdriver is
used to unscrew the threaded retainer from within the topside of the
tube. Using too small a screwdriver can easily damage the retainer slot
and make it non removable, so grind a large one down to fit inside the
tube if necessary. Remove the needle and adjust the circlip as
necessary. Note the jet needle identity size by counting the rings, not
the notches for the circlip.
The lower fuel float reservoir spring is pivoted to the rear and up
enough to allow the reservoir and floats to be lowered, removed and set
aside.
Before removing the main jet and mid-range jets, take a 6-inch piece of
.020 stainless safety wire and insert it down thru the opening of the
jets allowing 2-inches to protrude out the bottom. Bend the wire to
prevent loosing the small jets as they are removed. The main jet is
removed first. Take note of the size of the main jet and set it aside.
The mid-range jet is removed second and all successive parts are removed
on the wire to keep them from dropping out of sight. Sizes are only
found stamped on the main and mid-range jets. Make changes as needed and
take note of the arrangement of the jets shown on the Bing exploded view
to be sure that the jets are reassembled in proper order.
For reverse assembly, be careful to not stub the jet body end going back
into the carburetor body. Be careful to not damage the reservoir gasket
on reassembly. Be careful about alignment of the diaphragm key,
alignment of the jet needle, the enrichment lug, and final throttle
cable position etc.
Small wrenches used to remove the jets and throttle nuts are 8mm, 9mm
and 10mm combination open and closed end. These are easily purchased as
a set of small ignition wrenches in a plastic envelope from Sears. If
you do drop a 10mm nut into the intake as I did once, you can remove it
with a high-powered vacuum sweeper by opening the intake valves one side
at a time with the spark plug removed while rotating the engine slowly
by hand. Just dont make that mistake!
Have a good day.
Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: RE: Smiles. now aircraft spruce |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Aaron Gustafson" <agustafson@chartermi.net>
I've always gotten great service from Wicks.
I also notice the attitude at ACS
A. do not archive
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: RE: Smiles. now aircraft spruce |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: <dredmoody@cox.net>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Paul Mulwitz <p.mulwitz@worldnet.att.net>
>
> Maybe it is just luck of the draw. I have been getting excellent
> service from Aircraft Spruce.
Me too...... I haven't had much trouble with orders, shipping or availability over
the last three years of doing business with them. Other mail and online order
places seem to be about the same too. Just one of those "who knows?" things
I guess.
Ed Moody II
Rayne, LA
601XL wings
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Smiles. now aircraft spruce |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Mitch Hodges" <n601mh@hodges.info>
I see a East/West distribution trend in the responses. Maybe that is the difference.
They do ship from CA or GA depending on your location.
Mitch Hodges
DO NOT ARCHIVE
[quote="dredmoody(at)cox.net"]
>
>
> Maybe it is just luck of the draw. I have been getting excellent
> service from Aircraft Spruce.
>
>
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=27371#27371
Message 9
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Subject: | 601HDS: When to attach Ailerons |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Mitch Hodges" <n601mh@hodges.info>
Trying to get a feel from the group as to when they attached the ailerons (flex
hinge) to the wings. I'm at the point in the sequence manual now where its
trimmed, fitted and ready to attach, but given they will be stored for a while,
I'm wondering if I should not hold off until later in the assembly. Just seems
like attached there is a good chance they'll get bent in storage. Anyone
have thoughts one way or the other, or did it one way, and wish they had not?
I know in the end its probably "builder's choice", and I'm leaning towards holding
off until there are critical measurements required.
Mitch Hodges
Powder Springs, GA
N601MH (601HDS)
Rudder Done
Ailerons Done
Right Wing 99.999% complete
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=27374#27374
Message 10
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Subject: | 601HDS: When to attach Ailerons |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
That's one reason the hinged ailerons have an avantage...You just pull
out the pins to remove the alerons...This was very useful when I had to
unzip the nose skin to pull out the LE tank to repair a leak.
Anyway, Personally I would leave a few clecoes in and assemble at the
airport.
Frank
Trying to get a feel from the group as to when they attached the
ailerons (flex hinge) to the wings. I'm at the point in the sequence
manual now where its trimmed, fitted and ready to attach, but given they
will be stored for a while, I'm wondering if I should not hold off until
later in the assembly. Just seems like attached there is a good chance
they'll get bent in storage. Anyone have thoughts one way or the
other, or did it one way, and wish they had not?
Message 11
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Subject: | 601HDS: When to attach Ailerons |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Craig Payne" <craig@craigandjean.com>
If you don't attach them now a good way to protect the exposed edges where
the "hinge" will go is the split, hollow foam tubes sold to insulate water
pipes.
-- Craig
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: 601HDS: When to attach Ailerons |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: <dredmoody@cox.net>
I think holding off is a good idea considering that you can cleco them in place
anytime you need to. I'm reserving that same opotion for my elevator hinge. It's
rivetted to the elevator but only clecoed to the stabilizer.
Ed Moody II
Rayne, LA
601XL wings
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Mitch Hodges" <n601mh@hodges.info>
>
> Just seems like attached there is a good chance they'll get bent in storage.
Anyone have thoughts one way or the other, or did it one way, and wish they
had not?
>
> I know in the end its probably "builder's choice", and I'm leaning towards holding
off until there are critical measurements required.
>
> Mitch Hodges
> Powder Springs, GA
> N601MH (601HDS)
> Rudder Done
> Ailerons Done
> Right Wing 99.999% complete
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=27374#27374
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 13
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Robert Schoenberger" <hrs1@frontiernet.net>
Dirk . . be sure to check the archives. This subject has been discussed in
detail several times since I joined the list about 4 years ago. I use the
spoon technique with about 90% satisfaction, but I believe there was an
alternate technique posted within the past 6 months or so which looked
interesting. Robert Schoenberger 701 Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "LarryMcFarland" <larry@macsmachine.com>
Sent: Monday, April 10, 2006 10:34 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Smiles
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: LarryMcFarland <larry@macsmachine.com>
>
> Dirk,
> I'd consider tracing it to another piece and make another at this point
> if you've not attached it.
> Another consideration, you might want to make the forward top skin
> removable for access to your
> panel etc. As scratch builder, you've an advantage in deciding these
> things. I've got most of the detail
> covered on my website that shows how it's done. The FW top skin has
> been off a good number of times
> since the Airworthiness and paid its value the first time it had to come
> off.
> If you need more info on this just ask.
> Good luck,
>
> Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
>
>
> DVanvoorhi@aol.com wrote:
>
>>--> Zenith-List message posted by: DVanvoorhi@aol.com
>>
>>I mishandled the nose skin on my 601 HD and generated several "smiles" (or
>>maybe they should be called "frowns"). Is there anything that can be done
>>to
>>remove them before installing the piece? Is it better to live with them
>>now
>>and take them out with filler after installation?
>>
>>Dirk Van Voorhis (scratch building in Riverside CA)
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 14
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Subject: | Re: 601HDS: When to attach Ailerons |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: LarryMcFarland <larry@macsmachine.com>
Mitch,
I left the ailerons on the ceiling storage racks until they were ready
to move to the airport. I made racks
that enabled storage of the wings without ailerons on long blocks of
foam for the leading edge etc.
When they were ready to go to the airport, I riveted the ailerons in
place on the rack and put it all
on the trailer. Worked very well and the racks will serve moving the
wings home again for paint.
See links below,
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/tjh/winghandling/full/overhead-wing-stowage.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/TJH/HScentersection/full/wg2rack2.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/tjh/hscentersection/full/zenith-to-airport.jpg
Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
Mitch Hodges wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Mitch Hodges" <n601mh@hodges.info>
>
>Trying to get a feel from the group as to when they attached the ailerons (flex
hinge) to the wings. I'm at the point in the sequence manual now where its
trimmed, fitted and ready to attach, but given they will be stored for a while,
I'm wondering if I should not hold off until later in the assembly. Just seems
like attached there is a good chance they'll get bent in storage. Anyone
have thoughts one way or the other, or did it one way, and wish they had not?
>
>I know in the end its probably "builder's choice", and I'm leaning towards holding
off until there are critical measurements required.
>
>Mitch Hodges
>Powder Springs, GA
>N601MH (601HDS)
>Rudder Done
>Ailerons Done
>Right Wing 99.999% complete
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: 601HDS: When to attach Ailerons |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Mitch Hodges" <n601mh@hodges.info>
>That's one reason the hinged ailerons have an avantage...You just pull
out the pins to remove the alerons
I did think of that as I was trying to decide what to do. 8
)
Thanks to all that replied, as usual the common sense answer appears to be correct.
Also, (Craig) great idea on the pipe insulation "protectors". I just happen to
have some in the "too valuable to throw away, no real need for them now" pile
just looking for an excuse to be used.
Mitch Hodges
--------
N601MH (Zenith 601HDS)
Wings Under Construction
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=27395#27395
Message 16
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Subject: | Re: Smiles. now aircraft spruce |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Leo Gates <leogates@allvantage.com>
7 years with ACS, excellent service. I live in Texas and get shipments
from both CA and GA. I think it depends on which has all, or most of
order in stock.
Leo Gates
N601Z
do not archive
>I see a East/West distribution trend in the responses. Maybe that is the difference.
They do ship from CA or GA depending on your location.
>
>Mitch Hodges
>DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
>
Message 17
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Subject: | Re: Smiles. now aircraft spruce |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Robert Schoenberger" <hrs1@frontiernet.net>
I also get excellent service from A/S - and today I received a very nice
pocket knife in response to a promotion about a month ago for sending in a
name of someone to receive their catalogue. I also like the Cleaveland Tool
Company for super service, good products, and excellent advice. Robert
Schoenberger 701 do not archive.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Leo Gates" <leogates@allvantage.com>
Sent: Monday, April 10, 2006 4:36 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Re: Smiles. now aircraft spruce
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Leo Gates <leogates@allvantage.com>
>
> 7 years with ACS, excellent service. I live in Texas and get shipments
> from both CA and GA. I think it depends on which has all, or most of
> order in stock.
>
> Leo Gates
> N601Z
> do not archive
>
>>I see a East/West distribution trend in the responses. Maybe that is the
>>difference. They do ship from CA or GA depending on your location.
>>
>>Mitch Hodges
>>DO NOT ARCHIVE
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 18
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Subject: | Engine air filter |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "MR M VITA" <n81lv@verizon.net>
I have a 601HD with a 3300 engine.I do not have FWF kit.Has anyone used a K&N conical
air filter
Message 19
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk@alltel.net>
Here's one for y'all-
Getting ready to drill the gear box/slide holes for my HDS. Manual says "Maintain
safe edge distance". Doesn't look like I can hold to the 2x diameter rivet
distance with a 3/16" bolt, and there's no information I can find that gives
the edge distance calculation for a bolt. No problem centering the hole to
the slide flange, it's the ground side end I'm wondering about.
Bill
Message 20
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Subject: | Re: Engine air filter |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: JAPhillipsGA@aol.com
Dear Mr. M, I have used my K&M (or is it N ?) for about 45 hours on my
3300-XL. I felt a difference in power the first time I used it and rpm s went
up a
bit. I would recommend it over the Gold that Jab sent with the FWF kit, best
regards, Bill of Georgia N505WP
p.s. we are usually informal enough to identify ourselves
do not archive
Message 21
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Subject: | Re: Bolt spacing |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: LarryMcFarland <larry@macsmachine.com>
Bill,
Once you've placed the box on the angles, mark centerlines so that for
A3 bolts,
you've enough distance to avoid the nut being drawn down on the inside
radius of the angle.
Ink mark the angle edge and check the nut for good position before
laying down centerlines on the box. Then
place the box back on the angles, match mark and remove to carefully
drill the holes in the box. Then match mark
and drill the angles. Once you've drilled two holes each side
successfully, put a bolt thru and drill the rest. The most difficult
were the holes that match thru the reinforcing angle, box and guide angles.
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/gear/full/gear-support-brackets-fitti.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/gear/full/gfairingbrackets.gif
Assembly is the most fun though, putting the nuts on from the inside :-) .
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/TJH/gearAW/full/gear-support-nut-holding-wr.gif
If the A3 holes aren't capable of having a 2x edge distance, center the
holes on the short sides of the angles anyway.
Larry
Bill Naumuk wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk@alltel.net>
>
>Here's one for y'all-
> Getting ready to drill the gear box/slide holes for my HDS. Manual says "Maintain
safe edge distance". Doesn't look like I can hold to the 2x diameter rivet
distance with a 3/16" bolt, and there's no information I can find that gives
the edge distance calculation for a bolt. No problem centering the hole to
the slide flange, it's the ground side end I'm wondering about.
> Bill
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 22
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|
Subject: | Zenith Builders Gel-Coating |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: JAPhillipsGA@aol.com
Dear Thread Friends, for those of you all that missed the Zenith Bar-B-Q at S
n F you missed a really fine time. Great opportunity to meet a bunch of you
fine fellows that I have been learning from over the past four years. If I can
figure how to operate this camera of mine I will be glad to send photos.
On the subject at hand, any of you fellows have any experience with
gel-coating over fiberglass ? I want to learn how to prep, spray and finish gel
coating. Seems like I saw a part of a "How to Spray Gel-Coating" video somewhere,
but I can't remember where. Hope to hear from you and again, of those I met last
week, I am proud to have shook your hands, Best regards, Bill of Georgia
N505WP 601XL-3300 w/dc
do not archive
Message 23
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|
Subject: | 601 XL available? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dan Ribb" <dan@danribb.com>
I have a friend looking to buy a flying or nearly ready to fly 601 XL.
Anybody know of anything out there available?
- Dan
Message 24
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|
Subject: | Re: Zenith Builders Gel-Coating |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "ljkyle" <ljkyle@insightbb.com>
look a this site
http://www.fibreglast.com/
Larry Kyle
----- Original Message -----
From: <JAPhillipsGA@aol.com>
Sent: Monday, April 10, 2006 7:18 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Zenith Builders Gel-Coating
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: JAPhillipsGA@aol.com
>
> Dear Thread Friends, for those of you all that missed the Zenith Bar-B-Q
at S
> n F you missed a really fine time. Great opportunity to meet a bunch of
you
> fine fellows that I have been learning from over the past four years. If I
can
> figure how to operate this camera of mine I will be glad to send photos.
> On the subject at hand, any of you fellows have any experience with
> gel-coating over fiberglass ? I want to learn how to prep, spray and
finish gel
> coating. Seems like I saw a part of a "How to Spray Gel-Coating" video
somewhere,
> but I can't remember where. Hope to hear from you and again, of those I
met last
> week, I am proud to have shook your hands, Best regards, Bill of Georgia
> N505WP 601XL-3300 w/dc
> do not archive
>
>
> --
>
>
Message 25
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Subject: | Re: Bolt spacing |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk@alltel.net>
Larry-
I wasn't worried about the placement on the width of the slides, more
the distance to the end. I laid everything out, but haven't drilled anything
yet. Suppose I better take another look tomorrow.
Thanks.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "LarryMcFarland" <larry@macsmachine.com>
Sent: Monday, April 10, 2006 9:09 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Bolt spacing
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: LarryMcFarland <larry@macsmachine.com>
>
> Bill,
> Once you've placed the box on the angles, mark centerlines so that for
> A3 bolts,
> you've enough distance to avoid the nut being drawn down on the inside
> radius of the angle.
> Ink mark the angle edge and check the nut for good position before
> laying down centerlines on the box. Then
> place the box back on the angles, match mark and remove to carefully
> drill the holes in the box. Then match mark
> and drill the angles. Once you've drilled two holes each side
> successfully, put a bolt thru and drill the rest. The most difficult
> were the holes that match thru the reinforcing angle, box and guide
> angles.
> http://www.macsmachine.com/images/gear/full/gear-support-brackets-fitti.gif
> http://www.macsmachine.com/images/gear/full/gfairingbrackets.gif
> Assembly is the most fun though, putting the nuts on from the inside :-) .
> http://www.macsmachine.com/images/TJH/gearAW/full/gear-support-nut-holding-wr.gif
> If the A3 holes aren't capable of having a 2x edge distance, center the
> holes on the short sides of the angles anyway.
>
> Larry
>
>
> Bill Naumuk wrote:
>
>>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk@alltel.net>
>>
>>Here's one for y'all-
>> Getting ready to drill the gear box/slide holes for my HDS. Manual
>> says "Maintain safe edge distance". Doesn't look like I can hold to the
>> 2x diameter rivet distance with a 3/16" bolt, and there's no information
>> I can find that gives the edge distance calculation for a bolt. No
>> problem centering the hole to the slide flange, it's the ground side end
>> I'm wondering about.
>> Bill
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 26
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Subject: | Re: Zenith Builders Gel-Coating |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: JAPhillipsGA@aol.com
Larry, thanks for the referral, keep it flying, Bill
do not archive
Message 27
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Subject: | Re: Bolt spacing |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk@alltel.net>
All-
Thought I was offlist to Larry- sorry.
Couldn't wait till tomorrow to measure. Looks like I'll be OK if I
locate to the inside of my existing lines, and the factory steel work is on
the money. Haven't found anything off more than .004".
Bill
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk@alltel.net>
Sent: Monday, April 10, 2006 8:57 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Bolt spacing
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk@alltel.net>
>
> Larry-
> I wasn't worried about the placement on the width of the slides, more
> the distance to the end. I laid everything out, but haven't drilled
> anything
> yet. Suppose I better take another look tomorrow.
> Thanks.
> Bill
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "LarryMcFarland" <larry@macsmachine.com>
> To: <zenith-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Monday, April 10, 2006 9:09 PM
> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Bolt spacing
>
>
>> --> Zenith-List message posted by: LarryMcFarland <larry@macsmachine.com>
>>
>> Bill,
>> Once you've placed the box on the angles, mark centerlines so that for
>> A3 bolts,
>> you've enough distance to avoid the nut being drawn down on the inside
>> radius of the angle.
>> Ink mark the angle edge and check the nut for good position before
>> laying down centerlines on the box. Then
>> place the box back on the angles, match mark and remove to carefully
>> drill the holes in the box. Then match mark
>> and drill the angles. Once you've drilled two holes each side
>> successfully, put a bolt thru and drill the rest. The most difficult
>> were the holes that match thru the reinforcing angle, box and guide
>> angles.
>> http://www.macsmachine.com/images/gear/full/gear-support-brackets-fitti.gif
>> http://www.macsmachine.com/images/gear/full/gfairingbrackets.gif
>> Assembly is the most fun though, putting the nuts on from the inside :-)
>> .
>> http://www.macsmachine.com/images/TJH/gearAW/full/gear-support-nut-holding-wr.gif
>> If the A3 holes aren't capable of having a 2x edge distance, center the
>> holes on the short sides of the angles anyway.
>>
>> Larry
>>
>>
>> Bill Naumuk wrote:
>>
>>>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk@alltel.net>
>>>
>>>Here's one for y'all-
>>> Getting ready to drill the gear box/slide holes for my HDS. Manual
>>> says "Maintain safe edge distance". Doesn't look like I can hold to the
>>> 2x diameter rivet distance with a 3/16" bolt, and there's no information
>>> I can find that gives the edge distance calculation for a bolt. No
>>> problem centering the hole to the slide flange, it's the ground side end
>>> I'm wondering about.
>>> Bill
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 28
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Subject: | Re: 601 XL available? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Daniel Vandenberg <djvdb63@yahoo.com>
There is one here...I believe built by Art Mitchell in Canada:
http://www.aso.com/aircraft/97933/
DJV
Dan Ribb <dan@danribb.com> wrote: --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dan Ribb"
I have a friend looking to buy a flying or nearly ready to fly 601 XL.
Anybody know of anything out there available?
- Dan
---------------------------------
Message 29
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|
Subject: | Re: 601HDS: When to attach Ailerons |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Paul Mulwitz <p.mulwitz@worldnet.att.net>
I went ahead and riveted my hinge-less aileron before finishing the
wing. However, I did not rivet the flaps since the instructions said
to wait until fitted to the fuselage. I am building an XL so the
issues may be very different from the HDS.
If you want to store the wing after the aileron is installed you can
immobilize it with a couple of strips of wood laid across the hinge
and held in place with duct tape.
Good luck,
Paul
XL wings
>>Trying to get a feel from the group as to when they attached the
>>ailerons (flex hinge) to the wings. I'm at the point in the
>>sequence manual now where its trimmed, fitted and ready to attach,
>>but given they will be stored for a while, I'm wondering if I
>>should not hold off until later in the assembly. Just seems like
>>attached there is a good chance they'll get bent in
>>storage. Anyone have thoughts one way or the other, or did it one
>>way, and wish they had not?
Message 30
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "noel anderson" <nandrand@xtra.co.nz>
Hi Dan. It may not be any use to you, but there is a brand new Czech built CH601XL
for sale in New Zealand at NZ$69,000. The guy's name is Paul Muller Ph. No.
0064 6 7550077. I assume it came to NZ in a container, it could leave in the
same way!!!! Regards NOEL
Message 31
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Subject: | 601 XL available? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Ron Pizer" <rjp@pizer.org>
Hi Dan, I have a Czech built CH601XL one for sale in Sacramento CA. 140
hours fully loaded and fly's good. The owner could not get a sport pilot
license because he lost his medical. $ 59,500 Ron 775-240-5378 do not
archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Ribb
Sent: Monday, April 10, 2006 4:38 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: 601 XL available?
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dan Ribb" <dan@danribb.com>
I have a friend looking to buy a flying or nearly ready to fly 601 XL.
Anybody know of anything out there available?
- Dan
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