Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:39 AM - Re: full throttle ??? YES (Fritz Gurschick)
2. 06:29 AM - Re: More 701 brakes (Larry Landucci)
3. 06:48 AM - Re: Faa inspection passed (george may)
4. 03:03 PM - Wing Skins (Melvin Francke)
5. 03:15 PM - Re: Wing Skins (Gary Boothe)
6. 03:25 PM - Re: Wing Skins (Jaybannist@cs.com)
7. 03:39 PM - 701-Mounting Slats (doug kandle)
8. 04:10 PM - Re: Wing Skins (Bill Naumuk)
9. 04:24 PM - Re: Wing Skins (Aaron Gustafson)
10. 05:17 PM - Re: Wing Skins (Bill Naumuk)
11. 07:56 PM - Re: Wing Skins (Paul Mulwitz)
12. 09:02 PM - Re:701-Mounting Slats (ruruny@aol.com)
13. 09:36 PM - What to do about stripped canopy screw holes? (Craig Payne)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: full throttle ??? YES |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Fritz Gurschick <taffy8706@yahoo.com>
( I sent the following reply to Gary, than thought it best to share with the list)
HI Gary ----- thanks for the reply--------- please notice that because of the
great replies I infact have changed my mind and agree that "full throttle at
linkage breakage" is the way I'll go, when I get the engine set up in my 601 XL.
( I am planning on using the "William Wynn corvair conversion".)
My 701 ( which I no longer own) had good, hydraulic brakes, and was powered with
the Rotax 582 (2 cycle) engine. This engine would rev up real quick and would
actually drag the wheels with the brakes on.
My friend's 701 on the other hand had the Rotax 582, and his airplane had very
poor, weak, mechenical, drum brakes this is why he recommended I not go with
the "full throttle at linkage breakage" set up in my 701. In his airplane,
this set-up could have been very dangerous.
Thanks for writing, again I have changed my mind and agree with the "full throttle
set-up at linkage breakage"------- Happy flying--- Fritz
do not archive
Gary Gower <ggower_99@yahoo.com> wrote: --> Zenith-List message posted by: Gary
Gower
Hello Fritz,
The spring to full power is very important.
In fact here, our Instructor and most Experienced Bush Pilot (no AF-1 of course
:-)
Flys a C 180 to the mountains to do mission flights, He has "the spring" in his
carburator. and sure is not a Rotax powered Cessna.
By the way he is my Instructor and was the test pilot for our 701. He loved the
plane,
Saludos
Gary Gower
Just back from some GREAT vacations! Later some comments.
Flying from Chapala, Mexico.
Do not archive.
---------------------------------
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: More 701 brakes |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Larry Landucci <lllanducci@tds.net>
As Doug Kandle eluded to, proper break-in of the brakes is essential. I
have an 801 and even at gross weight with Zenith-supplied plastic brake
lines I have no trouble stopping. Before the break-in I could not keep
the plane from creeping forward during 1900 rpm mag tests. The
polypropylene lines supplied by Zenith are very hard, unlike many other
plastic types. Another potential problem leading to insufficient
braking is the presence of some air in the brake lines.
Larry Landucci -- N801LL
Message 3
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| Subject: | Faa inspection passed |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "george may" <gfmjr_20@hotmail.com>
Jack--
Congradulations on passing the inspection. Keep us posted on the flight
results.
George May
601XL 912s---first engine run up complete without a hitch
>From: Jack Russell <clojan@sbcglobal.net>
>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Zenith-List: Faa inspection passed
>Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2006 18:06:25 -0700 (PDT)
>
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: Jack Russell <clojan@sbcglobal.net>
>
>Our experience with the FAA inspector was a good one. The inspection took a
>couple of hours and the only problem he had was one prop bolt safety wire
>was loose. Should be in the air soon!
> Of course, We had to wait about 3 months for this all to occur so learn
>from our mistakes.
> We went to the local fsdo and was told to bring all paperwork to their
>office which we did the next day. A couple of weeks later the inspector
>called to set up an appointment and asked if we had registered it with OK.
>Told him that he had the paper work. Long story short, The registration
>must be sent direct to OK and not the local office before the inspection
>can be set up. We sent it off to OK and finally we got the regs back. All
>the run around took about 2 months longer than it should have. Just a word
>of advice, get it registered long before you think you might be getting to
>the end. Jack in Los Osos Ca.
> Ps. The Inspector was a great guy to work with. Very helpful.
>
>
>Jack Russell -Clovis CA
>601 XL Jabiru 3300
> Progress update at:
>http://www.geocities.com/clojan@sbcglobal.net/zodiacbarn.html
>
>
Message 4
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Melvin Francke" <mlfrancke@charter.net>
Anyone?
This might be a stupid question, but when you turn over the wings and cleco top
skin on the inside.
Then turn over and do the bottom skin when you go to rivet bottom skin on skeleton,
how do you remove the clecos from
the inside on the top skin.
Thanks
Mel Francke CH601XL working on wings
Do not archive
Growing old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving
safely in an attractive and well preserved body, but rather to skid in
sideways, chocolate in one hand, wine in the other, body thoroughly
used up, totally worn out and screaming "WOO HOO what a ride!"
Message 5
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Gary Boothe" <gboothe@calply.com>
Mel,
As I recall, ZAC recommends doing the bottom first. I believe their exact
phraseology was to the effect that you want your best work on top (where
it's seen). At any rate, install clecoes on the outside of all skins. That
means you have to be careful if you intend to lay the wing down on installed
clecoes. Be sure to Einstein a method of having something to support the
wing between the clecoes.
Gary A. Boothe
Cool, Ca
601HDSTD, WW Conversion
Tail Complete, Working on wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Melvin Francke
Sent: Friday, April 21, 2006 2:56 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Wing Skins
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Melvin Francke" <mlfrancke@charter.net>
Anyone?
This might be a stupid question, but when you turn over the wings and cleco
top skin on the inside.
Then turn over and do the bottom skin when you go to rivet bottom skin on
skeleton, how do you remove the clecos from
the inside on the top skin.
Thanks
Mel Francke CH601XL working on wings
Do not archive
Growing old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving
safely in an attractive and well preserved body, but rather to skid in
sideways, chocolate in one hand, wine in the other, body thoroughly
used up, totally worn out and screaming "WOO HOO what a ride!"
Message 6
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: Jaybannist@cs.com
Mel, I thought that was a bad idea also. I left the clecoes outside the top
skin and just used more steel tubes under the spar and rear channel to get
the proper angle on the spar and make sure the clecoes were clear of the table.
This is pretty fresh, since I did just that today! I am working on the left
wing with the right one complete and in storage.
Another trick I developed to align the nose ribs. Once the spar edge of the
nose skin has been clecoed, I slip a 1 x 2 between the skin and just above the
nose of the rib. That way, I can drill a pilot hole (the last one toward the
nose) without drilling thru the rib flange. Then I can align the centerline
mark on the rib flange thru this pilot hole. Works every time.
Jay in Dallas w/601XL
Do not archive
Message 7
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| Subject: | 701-Mounting Slats |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: doug kandle <d_kandle@velocitus.net>
I am trying to bolt the slats to my wing. There are two jigs used,
one for the bottom alignment and one for the top gap. But when I
have the bottom set correctly there is too much gap at the top. The
bracket on the wing hits the slat and I can't get them close enough
together to meet all the specs. There is supposed to be a 16 to 18mm
gap between the top of the slat and the top of the wing. But the
closest I can get at the top is about 21mm. All 8 brackets are about
the same. I have already filed down the tops of the brackets so that
there is a 10mm radius around the top hole.
Anyone hit this problem? Any suggestions before I send ZAC a note
and ask if I can reposition the mounting holes and cut down the
bracket (or just have a 20mm gap at the top)?
Doug Kandle
CH701
Boise ID
All Airfoils done
Trying to mount slats
Jabiru 2200
From complete kit
Message 8
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk@alltel.net>
Mel-
Cleco on the outside and use the biggest shims you can afford to set the
wings on. Out here in the boondocks, we can get 6x6 roughcut blocking for
next to nothing (If not nothing). Very nice being able to set or pull clecos
without having to re-level everything.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Melvin Francke" <mlfrancke@charter.net>
Sent: Friday, April 21, 2006 5:56 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Wing Skins
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Melvin Francke"
> <mlfrancke@charter.net>
>
> Anyone?
>
> This might be a stupid question, but when you turn over the wings and
> cleco top skin on the inside.
> Then turn over and do the bottom skin when you go to rivet bottom skin on
> skeleton, how do you remove the clecos from
> the inside on the top skin.
>
> Thanks
> Mel Francke CH601XL working on wings
>
> Do not archive
>
>
> Growing old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
> Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving
> safely in an attractive and well preserved body, but rather to skid in
> sideways, chocolate in one hand, wine in the other, body thoroughly
> used up, totally worn out and screaming "WOO HOO what a ride!"
>
>
>
Message 9
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Aaron Gustafson" <agustafson@chartermi.net>
Me too am working on wing skins lately. On the second wing, which looks
better than the first, I did the final rivet on the top skin before I even
drilled the bottom. They say you can do some straightening by tapping on
rivets but I didn't find that worked well. Use a small square to make sure
the rib flanges are at 90 degrees before you start or the flanges will pull
your skins out of flat. On my next 601 (((NOT))) I will do everything better
and faster! Make sure your table is flat w/ a level.
Aaron do not archive
Message 10
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk@alltel.net>
Aaron-
What do you mean, NOT! Wouldn't you like to do it right the first time?
Even if it is the second time!
Bill
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Aaron Gustafson" <agustafson@chartermi.net>
Sent: Friday, April 21, 2006 7:22 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Wing Skins
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Aaron Gustafson"
> <agustafson@chartermi.net>
>
> Me too am working on wing skins lately. On the second wing, which looks
> better than the first, I did the final rivet on the top skin before I even
> drilled the bottom. They say you can do some straightening by tapping on
> rivets but I didn't find that worked well. Use a small square to make sure
> the rib flanges are at 90 degrees before you start or the flanges will
> pull
> your skins out of flat. On my next 601 (((NOT))) I will do everything
> better
> and faster! Make sure your table is flat w/ a level.
>
> Aaron do not archive
>
>
>
Message 11
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: Paul Mulwitz <p.mulwitz@worldnet.att.net>
I guess I am confused by this question. When I do wing skins, the
clecos go on the outside rather than the inside. The only ones on
the inside are in places that will always be accessible like the
baggage compartment.
Paul
XL wings.
At 02:56 PM 4/21/2006, you wrote:
>This might be a stupid question, but when you turn over the wings
>and cleco top skin on the inside.
>Then turn over and do the bottom skin when you go to rivet bottom
>skin on skeleton, how do you remove the clecos from
>the inside on the top skin.
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re:701-Mounting Slats |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: ruruny@aol.com
Doug,
If you lift up slightly at the bottom(or better, slide slat up from bottom a little),
the gap will close at the top slightly and bring it in spec.. The wing
nose skin slightly bulges out on the bottom where it bends around the nose ribs.
This slightly moves the jig on the bottom lower than shown on the plans. Look
at how the brackets on the slats and the wing come together at all 4 points.
There is a natural fit to these. If the slat brackets look like they are sitting
alot lower than the wing brackets this is due to you trying to align the
slat grounded to the jig. This will work on their drawing but in reality I found
it will not work. The drawing is basically showing that if you set the wing
on a table with the slat attached, the slat edge will touch the table. In reality
the slat edge will sit slightly higher than the bottom surface of the wing.
I got 18 mm between the top of wing and slat. Do not cut your brackets or reposition
holes. I did round off the top as you did a
lso. You used separately made jigs to carefully position these brackets on the
slat ribs and the wing nose ribs. They should line up pretty close
in the final assembly.
Brian
701
Long Island, NY
Message 13
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| Subject: | What to do about stripped canopy screw holes? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Craig Payne" <craig@craigandjean.com>
Some of the holes in my canopy frame for the screws holding the bubble are
stripped. Is there a good fix?
-- Craig
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