Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:38 AM - Re: Re:701-Mounting Slats (Tommy Walker)
2. 07:07 AM - Re: What to do about stripped canopy screw holes? (LarryMcFarland)
3. 07:41 AM - Re: Wing Skins (N5SL)
4. 08:16 AM - Re: What to do about stripped canopy screw holes? (Jerry Latimer)
5. 08:40 AM - Re: Wing Skins (JAPhillipsGA@aol.com)
6. 08:47 AM - Re: What to do about stripped canopy screw holes? (JAPhillipsGA@aol.com)
7. 09:39 AM - Re: What to do about stripped canopy screw holes? (Bob Miller)
8. 10:28 AM - Re: What to do about stripped canopy screw holes? (Leo Gates)
9. 10:55 AM - Parts for sale. (Richard Vetterli)
10. 12:11 PM - Cont. 0200 and engine mout for sale (Leo Gates)
11. 12:30 PM - Re: Cont. 0200 and engine mout for sale (Aaron Gustafson)
12. 02:42 PM - 701 Header tank installation (Geoff Heap)
13. 03:52 PM - Re: 701 Header tank installation (=?ISO-8859-1?Q?J=F3hann_Gestur?=)
14. 05:32 PM - Re: 701 Header tank installation (LarryMcFarland)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re:701-Mounting Slats |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Tommy Walker" <twalker@cableone.net>
Also, isn't the distance for the top edge 14-18 mm, not 16-18?
I was really concerned about that 16 mm. distance. So much so that I drove
out of my way on a trip to Ft. Leavenworth, KS to stop by the factory and
check out the demo. I slipped my finger through the edge and started
sliding it from the tip toward the root of the wing. The edge distance on
the demo fluctuated quite a bit. I thought that it should be a smooth 16 mm
gap with no deviation.
So, for what it's worth, the slat edge distance is not consistent from one
end to the other.
Tommy Walker in Alabama
Do Not Archive
Doug, If you lift up slightly at the bottom(or better, slide slat up from
bottom a little), the gap will close at the top slightly and bring it in
spec.. The wing nose skin slightly bulges out on the bottom where it bends
around the nose ribs. This slightly moves the jig on the bottom lower than
shown on the plans. Look at how the brackets on the slats and the wing come
together at all 4 points. There is a natural fit to these. If the slat
brackets look like they are sitting alot lower than the wing brackets this
is due to you trying to align the slat grounded to the jig. This will work
on their drawing but in reality I found it will not work. The drawing is
basically showing that if you set the wing on a table with the slat
attached, the slat edge will touch the table. In reality the slat edge will
sit slightly higher than the bottom surface of the wing. I got 18 mm between
the top of wing and slat. Do not cut your brackets or reposition holes. I
did round off the top as you did a lso. You used separately made jigs to
carefully position these brackets on the slat ribs and the wing nose ribs.
They should line up pretty close in the final assembly. Brian 701 Long
Island, NY
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: What to do about stripped canopy screw holes? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: LarryMcFarland <larry@macsmachine.com>
Craig,
I would suggest drilling clear thru so you can use a screw long enough
to go thru the opposite
side. Then stub the pointed end so you don't get caught on it. If that
isn't good, go with a recessed head machine screw
and cap-nut the screw as it comes out the other side.
Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
Craig Payne wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Craig Payne" <craig@craigandjean.com>
>
>Some of the holes in my canopy frame for the screws holding the bubble are
>stripped. Is there a good fix?
>
>-- Craig
>
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Message 3
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: N5SL <nfivesl@yahoo.com>
Paul:
If you cleco the inside of your wingskin, then rivet
the other side, you will have no way to remove the
clecos. You should cleco the skin on the outside,
turn the wing over and use some sort of spacers (2x2's
or metal beams) so the clecos don't hit the table,
then rivet the side that is up. In the case described
below, the bottom is riveted first so the clecos
should be on the outside of the top skin with the wing
resting on spacers. The assembly manual available on
the ZAC builder's page is pretty clear on this.
Some of the questions I read on this list lead me to
believe not everyone knows about the updated assembly
manuals. ZAC will give you the password if you call
them in Mexico, MO.
Scott Laughlin
www.cooknwithgas.com
Wiring my yoke
--- Paul Mulwitz <p.mulwitz@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
> I guess I am confused by this question.
> Paul
> XL wings.
> At 02:56 PM 4/21/2006, you wrote:
> >This might be a stupid question, but when you turn
> over the wings
> >and cleco top skin on the inside.
> >Then turn over and do the bottom skin when you go
> to rivet bottom
> >skin on skeleton, how do you remove the clecos from
> >the inside on the top skin.
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List
>
>
> Admin.
>
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Message 4
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| Subject: | What to do about stripped canopy screw holes? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jerry Latimer" <jlatimer1@cox.net>
Graig,
You might try the next larger size screw on the stripped out holes.
Jerry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Craig Payne
Sent: Friday, April 21, 2006 9:35 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: What to do about stripped canopy screw holes?
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Craig Payne" <craig@craigandjean.com>
Some of the holes in my canopy frame for the screws holding the bubble are
stripped. Is there a good fix?
-- Craig
Message 5
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: JAPhillipsGA@aol.com
Mel, all of us that have built the wings know the issue and there are
probably as many ways to resolve it as XLs out there. What I did was build the
wing
on top of two 12 foot steel I-beams that I mounted semi permeant on my 12x4
building table. I got them level with a digital level and each time I flipped the
wings it took two folks and we lifted high enough to clear the bottom
inverted clecos and re set so the clecos cleared the beams. I built the whole wing
without riveting until all skins and holes were ready. Then I riveted the bottom
(minus flap attachment area where I inserted clecos up side down), top skin,
then nose skin, then tip. I'm sure it can be accomplished other ways, but the
beams assured everything was square and plum. best regards, Bill of Georgia
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: What to do about stripped canopy screw holes? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: JAPhillipsGA@aol.com
Craig, I don't know if this is the "approved' method, but I did one by
putting JB Weld in the hole and a little on the threads of the screw and re screwed
until it was set. Now I have not removed that screw so I am not sure I can,
but expect I won't have to unless the canopy has to be replaced then the screw
will be the least of worries. Best of luck, Bill of Georgia
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: What to do about stripped canopy screw holes? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bob Miller" <tutuzulu@gmail.com>
If you use JBWeld, just wrap a single layer of plumber's Teflon tape
around the screw before inserting, tight so the threads are defined
thru the tape. You can then pack the JBWeld into the covered threads
and put it into the hole. I once made a bolt hole in a rock this way,
and it held strong!
Bob
BTW Bill, great meeting you at the BBQ. I still chuckle at the story
about the fuel flood!
On 4/22/06, JAPhillipsGA@aol.com <JAPhillipsGA@aol.com> wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: JAPhillipsGA@aol.com
>
> Craig, I don't know if this is the "approved' method, but I did one by
> putting JB Weld in the hole and a little on the threads of the screw and re screwed
> until it was set. Now I have not removed that screw so I am not sure I can,
> but expect I won't have to unless the canopy has to be replaced then the screw
> will be the least of worries. Best of luck, Bill of Georgia
>
>
--
Bob Miller
601HD N722Z
Charlottesville, Virginia
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: What to do about stripped canopy screw holes? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Leo Gates <leogates@allvantage.com>
Craig,
If you go the JB Weld route, just put some Vaseline on the screw
threads. The JB Weld will not stick to the threads then and will make
perfect threaded holes. IMHO the Teflon tape method will work, but more
work.
Leo Gates
N601Z
Craig Payne wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Craig Payne" <craig@craigandjean.com>
>
>Some of the holes in my canopy frame for the screws holding the bubble are
>stripped. Is there a good fix?
>
>-- Craig
>
>
>
Message 9
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: Richard Vetterli <richvetterli@yahoo.com>
For sale, both brand new in the box as received from
Aircraft Spruce. #1 - Airspeed Indicator, Falcon,
ASI160M-3, P/N 10-02917, 3, 0-160. List for
$114.95, will let it go for $90.00. #2 - Altitude
Encoder, Ameri-King, AK-350. Lists for $149.95, will
sell for $120.00. Check out details at ASS. E-mail
me off-line if interested. First offer gets them and
Ill pay shipping.
Rich Vetterli
Message 10
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| Subject: | Cont. 0200 and engine mout for sale |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Leo Gates <leogates@allvantage.com>
List,
Someone posted a message recently offering a Cont. 0200 and engine mout
for a 701. If still available, I have a friend interested. Please
e-mail me with details.
Leo Gates
N601Z
Do not archive
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Cont. 0200 and engine mout for sale |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Aaron Gustafson" <agustafson@chartermi.net>
I also am looking for a 0-200 engine. I bought a mount about a month ago.
Aaron do not archive
> Someone posted a message recently offering a Cont. 0200 and engine mout
> for a 701. If still available
Message 12
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| Subject: | 701 Header tank installation |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Geoff Heap" <stol10@comcast.net>
Guys. I could use help with installing my header tank. I originally started from
plans only in 1991 and at that time the wing tank size was much smaller than
at present. They hold a total of about 14 gallon. My wings were finished years
ago and I don't feel like ripping them apart so I got ZAC to build me a half
size "D" tank that holds about 6 gallon. Problem is the new plans don't consider
a header tank behind the panel. If anyone has seen plans from 1991 ......well
they leave a lot to be desired. I would appreciate photos from anyone who
has fitted a header. Come Monday I'll give ZAC a call to see if the have anything
better.
Would appreciate comments/opinions on the sight glass versus a gage.
Thanks to all......Geoff.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=30077#30077
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: 701 Header tank installation |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: =?ISO-8859-1?Q?J=F3hann_Gestur?= <joeing701@internet.is>
Hello Geoff.
I installed a D header tank and had help with removing the filler cap.
Then I installed a vent that extends up to the right wing around the
hight of the wing tank. No gauges in the wing tanks but only in the D
tank. I never liked the sight glass system. Installed the VDO fuel level
sensor and am using the Stratomaster EM2 gauge for instruments. Also
installed the fuel flow system which is very nice to have. Tells me
exactly how much time I have of fuel or how many miles to fly base on
the Rotax 912 fuel consumptions and the present rpm.
I have one fuel pump located behind the seats which I use to transfere
fuel from the wing tank to the header tank. I can see when the fuel is
out in the wing tanks by a clear tubes from the wings to the fuel shut
of valve located on the flaperon rod cover behind the pax/pilots head. I
can send you some pictues of this setup.
Look under Zenith, fuselage page 6. There you will see my tank
installation. See my homepage: www.gi.is/fis
If you need more pictues, please let me know.
I am very happy with this installation.
Regards,
Johann G.
Iceland.
Z701/Joeing701
Geoff Heap wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Geoff Heap" <stol10@comcast.net>
>
>Guys. I could use help with installing my header tank. I originally started from
plans only in 1991 and at that time the wing tank size was much smaller than
at present. They hold a total of about 14 gallon. My wings were finished years
ago and I don't feel like ripping them apart so I got ZAC to build me a half
size "D" tank that holds about 6 gallon. Problem is the new plans don't consider
a header tank behind the panel. If anyone has seen plans from 1991 ......well
they leave a lot to be desired. I would appreciate photos from anyone who
has fitted a header. Come Monday I'll give ZAC a call to see if the have anything
better.
> Would appreciate comments/opinions on the sight glass versus a gage.
> Thanks to all......Geoff.
>
>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: 701 Header tank installation |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: LarryMcFarland <larry@macsmachine.com>
Geoff,
You might be interested in the Header Tank page on my site,
www.macsmachine.com. The page is a descriptive of
the installation from making the tank to all views for supporting it
before the skins were on the plane.
My header is only about 9-gallons, but the principal is the same. If
you need other info, just ask.
Larry McFarland - 601HDS
Geoff Heap wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Geoff Heap" <stol10@comcast.net>
>
>Guys. I could use help with installing my header tank. I originally started from
plans only in 1991 and at that time the wing tank size was much smaller than
at present. They hold a total of about 14 gallon. My wings were finished years
ago and I don't feel like ripping them apart so I got ZAC to build me a half
size "D" tank that holds about 6 gallon. Problem is the new plans don't consider
a header tank behind the panel. If anyone has seen plans from 1991 ......well
they leave a lot to be desired. I would appreciate photos from anyone who
has fitted a header. Come Monday I'll give ZAC a call to see if the have anything
better.
> Would appreciate comments/opinions on the sight glass versus a gage.
> Thanks to all......Geoff.
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=30077#30077
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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