Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:32 AM - Re: Firewall (Jari Kaija)
2. 03:10 AM - Re: New to the list (Paul Mulwitz)
3. 03:32 AM - Older designs info (Dave)
4. 04:47 AM - RE : Re: holes, drill bits, reamers and bolts (Geoff Heap)
5. 04:59 AM - Re: 701 CG calculations (steveadams)
6. 07:27 AM - Re: New to the list (Robert L. Stone)
7. 08:12 AM - Re: New to the list (JAPhillipsGA@aol.com)
8. 08:15 AM - Re: New to the list (Paul Mulwitz)
9. 08:15 AM - Re: New to the list (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
10. 08:16 AM - Thanks for all your ideas on cutting Aluminum (AZFlyer)
11. 09:15 AM - Re: New to the list (Thesumak@aol.com)
12. 09:16 AM - Thanks for all your ideas on cutting Aluminum (Jon Croke)
13. 09:40 AM - Re: New to the list (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
14. 09:49 AM - Re: Thanks for all your ideas on cutting Aluminum (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
15. 10:35 AM - Re: Thanks for all your ideas on cutting Aluminum (ROBERT SCEPPA)
16. 10:50 AM - Re: Thanks for all your ideas on cutting Aluminum (B Johnson)
17. 10:53 AM - Re: Thanks for all your ideas on cutting Aluminum (Jon Croke)
18. 11:13 AM - Re: Thanks for all your ideas on cutting Aluminum (Jon Croke)
19. 11:28 AM - Re: New to the list (Robert Schoenberger)
20. 11:55 AM - Re: New to the list (Robert L. Stone)
21. 12:12 PM - Re: New to the list (Robert L. Stone)
22. 12:12 PM - Re: New to the list (Robert L. Stone)
23. 12:23 PM - Re: New to the list (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
24. 12:24 PM - Enco rivet gun on sale (Ron Butterfield)
25. 12:28 PM - Re: New to the list (Robert L. Stone)
26. 12:32 PM - Re: New to the list (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
27. 12:51 PM - Re: Thanks for all your ideas on cutting Aluminum (Randy Bryant)
28. 12:55 PM - Re: New to the list (Randy Bryant)
29. 01:01 PM - Re: New to the list (Edward Moody II)
30. 01:03 PM - Re: Thanks for all your ideas on cutting Aluminum (Randy Bryant)
31. 01:08 PM - Re: Enco rivet gun on sale (Randy Bryant)
32. 01:26 PM - Re: Enco rivet gun on sale (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
33. 02:03 PM - Re: Enco rivet gun on sale (Jaybannist@cs.com)
34. 02:17 PM - Re: Enco rivet gun on sale (Randy L. Thwing)
35. 02:35 PM - 912 oil "thermostat" (Zed Smith)
36. 04:03 PM - Re: 912 oil "thermostat" (george may)
37. 04:11 PM - Re: Enco rivet gun on sale (Tim Juhl)
38. 05:06 PM - First Time Post (Afterfxllc@aol.com)
39. 05:10 PM - Re: Re: Enco rivet gun on sale (Paul Mulwitz)
40. 05:31 PM - Re: Enco rivet gun on sale (Larry Portouw)
41. 05:38 PM - Re: 912 oil "thermostat" (Trevor Page)
42. 08:14 PM - Re: Enco rivet gun on sale (Ron Lendon)
43. 08:56 PM - Rivet puller tips. Was Re: Enco rivet gun (Brandon Tucker)
44. 08:59 PM - Re: Re: Enco rivet gun on sale (Paul Mulwitz)
45. 10:01 PM - Re: Re: Enco rivet gun on sale (Randy Bryant)
Message 1
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jari Kaija" <jari.kaija@pp.inet.fi>
> I would agree...but I think stainless is harder to work, drill
> etc...than galvnised.
I made my firewall from stainless steel. It's a little "harder" to drill,
but not too much. And when drilling, it's quite important, that you
don't burn your drill bit.
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: New to the list |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Paul Mulwitz <p.mulwitz@worldnet.att.net>
Hi Bob,
Welcome aboard.
I am building the twin to your plane. I plan, however, to include
some gyro instruments for use in the rare times when visual reference
to the horizon is absent. This can still be legal VFR, but without
clear visual reference to the outside world it can be very hard to
keep the shiny side up and the rubber side down.
Paul
XL wings
do not archive
> I just yesterday found out about this list so joined. I am
> building a ZodiacCH601XL, my first all metal airplane. I have in
> the past built the KR-1 and the KR-2 both are composite. I was a
> member of the KRNet which is the same as this one, that is a medium
> where builders of the same aircraft can exchange ideas, solve
> problems, receive advice from seasoned metal aircraft builders,
> etc. This airplane will have a training wheel up front, (I am not
> qualified in tail draggers) I will use the Jabiru 3300 engine and
> since it will be built to be a sport aircraft I will not have any
> IFR instruments. I would like to know if there are any builders or
> owners of completed Zodiac XL aircraft in my area. I am in central Texas.
>
>Bob Stone, Harker Heights, Tx
>rstone4@hot.rr.com
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Older designs info |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave" <d.goddard@ns.sympatico.ca>
I am interested in info on the older designs from Chris Hientz. The CH200
and CH300. Does the factory still provide support etc for these machines? Do
they have any vices or known issues?
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: RE : Re: holes, drill bits, reamers and bolts |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Geoff Heap" <stol10@comcast.net>
Carlos. What you just said does not make sense. The non reamed hole (drilled hole)
is supposed to be smaller. ie .365 /.370. The reamer opens it up to the final
dia. of .375. If your drill (probablly .368) is making the hole .375 then
you need to use a smaller drill. I saw the earlier replies to your problem commenting
on the use of a letter "U" drill for a .375 final hole size and I decided
to stay out of that. However, let me say this now please. Due to too many
complications to get into here, you usually cannot get a .368 drill to drill a
.368 hole outside of a milling machine. On a small pedestal drill press you will
have trouble. You should be using a 23/64 drill (.359). The reamer does more
than produce the final dia. It gets rid of the rough walls created by the drill
and makes the hole perfectly round and smooth walled. A .375 hole created
by a .368 is not a NICE hole and it most certainly is not round.
See you up there.....Geoff.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=30802#30802
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: 701 CG calculations |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "steveadams" <dr_steve_adams@yahoo.com>
For the fuel arm I would use ZACs numbers. For pilot, passenger, and baggage areas,
use a tape measure and measure the arms on your plane. It's not really all
that complicated.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=30806#30806
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: New to the list |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Robert L. Stone" <rstone4@hot.rr.com>
Paul,
I think you are right, I have had some second thoughts about not
installing any IFR instruments. I plan on using the Jabiru 3300 engine and
I don't know if it has a suction pump or not like the Continental or
Lycomings do. If it does not I am going to have to pay almost $2,000.00 for
an electric attitude indicator. Any instruments I add that work from air
being sucked through them will have to be electric and cost a lot more
money. I have written to Jabiru, USA and asked them about this and am still
waiting for an answer.
Bob Stone
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Mulwitz" <p.mulwitz@worldnet.att.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 26, 2006 5:02 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: New to the list
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Paul Mulwitz
> <p.mulwitz@worldnet.att.net>
>
> Hi Bob,
>
> Welcome aboard.
>
> I am building the twin to your plane. I plan, however, to include
> some gyro instruments for use in the rare times when visual reference
> to the horizon is absent. This can still be legal VFR, but without
> clear visual reference to the outside world it can be very hard to
> keep the shiny side up and the rubber side down.
>
> Paul
> XL wings
> do not archive
>
>
>> I just yesterday found out about this list so joined. I am
>> building a ZodiacCH601XL, my first all metal airplane. I have in
>> the past built the KR-1 and the KR-2 both are composite. I was a
>> member of the KRNet which is the same as this one, that is a medium
>> where builders of the same aircraft can exchange ideas, solve
>> problems, receive advice from seasoned metal aircraft builders,
>> etc. This airplane will have a training wheel up front, (I am not
>> qualified in tail draggers) I will use the Jabiru 3300 engine and
>> since it will be built to be a sport aircraft I will not have any
>> IFR instruments. I would like to know if there are any builders or
>> owners of completed Zodiac XL aircraft in my area. I am in central
>> Texas.
>>
>>Bob Stone, Harker Heights, Tx
>>rstone4@hot.rr.com
>>
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: New to the list |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: JAPhillipsGA@aol.com
Bob, I have a vacuum pump on my XL-3300. It attaches to the rear of the
crankshaft and the engine has mounting points for it. I have to say though if I
was
doing it again I would go electric. Sure the electric DG costs more, but
consider you buy the vacuum pump, the filter and holder, the vacuum regulator and
the DG itself and fittings (which cost a fortune) and hoses and the vacuum
gage itself and then the electric DG doesn't look so costly. Also, there is the
extra weight and complexity with the system, (more stuff to breakdown or be
adjusted) not to mention the drag on engine performance for the pump. At some
point I am planning on a change for my bird. If you still want the system contact
me off thread and I will make you a deal. FWIW, Best regards, Bill of Georgia
do not archive
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: New to the list |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Paul Mulwitz <p.mulwitz@worldnet.att.net>
Hi Bob,
I believe the Jabiru has the drive port for a vacuum pump but the
pump is an extra option. I don't plan to use one, so I am not sure
about the price but I don't think it is a lot.
There are several options for VFR class instruments. I plan to go
with an EFIS which gives complete IFR style information for around
the price you quoted for one electric gyro. Also, you don't need
TSO'd instruments, so you can probably get a much lower price for
instruments you probably won't use much anyway.
I did a quick look at Aircraft Spruce's web site and came up with two
alternatives you can consider for under $1000. I found a non TSO
Vacuum driven turn and bank indicator around $350 and a vacuum pump
around $200. For around $800 you can get an electric turn and bank
indicator. With a bit of instrument training you can easily fly out
of a low visibility situation with one of these instruments and an
airspeed and altimeter. The turn and bank is quite sufficient for
instrument flight and is a lot more dependable than an attitude
indicator since it is not able to tumble.
Good luck,
Paul
XL wings
At 07:20 AM 4/26/2006, you wrote:
>Paul,
> I think you are right, I have had some second thoughts about not
>installing any IFR instruments. I plan on using the Jabiru 3300 engine and
>I don't know if it has a suction pump or not like the Continental or
>Lycomings do. If it does not I am going to have to pay almost $2,000.00 for
>an electric attitude indicator. Any instruments I add that work from air
>being sucked through them will have to be electric and cost a lot more
>money. I have written to Jabiru, USA and asked them about this and am still
>waiting for an answer.
>
>Bob Stone
Message 9
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
Vacuum pumps suck...In more ways than one.
I would suggest a large format Dynon is a far better investment than
electric standalone instruments and no moving parts. The Dynon gives
attitude indication and a DG all rolled into one (together with a bunch
of other instruments). That's what is going into my and many other's IFR
RV's.
I would not even consider going with a vacuum pump whether the engine
can drive one or not..
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert L.
Stone
Sent: Wednesday, April 26, 2006 7:21 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: New to the list
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Robert L. Stone"
--> <rstone4@hot.rr.com>
Paul,
I think you are right, I have had some second thoughts about not
installing any IFR instruments. I plan on using the Jabiru 3300 engine
and I don't know if it has a suction pump or not like the Continental or
Lycomings do. If it does not I am going to have to pay almost $2,000.00
for an electric attitude indicator. Any instruments I add that work
from air being sucked through them will have to be electric and cost a
lot more money. I have written to Jabiru, USA and asked them about this
and am still waiting for an answer.
Bob Stone
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Mulwitz" <p.mulwitz@worldnet.att.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 26, 2006 5:02 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: New to the list
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Paul Mulwitz
> <p.mulwitz@worldnet.att.net>
>
> Hi Bob,
>
> Welcome aboard.
>
> I am building the twin to your plane. I plan, however, to include
> some gyro instruments for use in the rare times when visual reference
> to the horizon is absent. This can still be legal VFR, but without
> clear visual reference to the outside world it can be very hard to
> keep the shiny side up and the rubber side down.
>
> Paul
> XL wings
> do not archive
>
>
>> I just yesterday found out about this list so joined. I am
>> building a ZodiacCH601XL, my first all metal airplane. I have in
>> the past built the KR-1 and the KR-2 both are composite. I was a
>> member of the KRNet which is the same as this one, that is a medium
>> where builders of the same aircraft can exchange ideas, solve
>> problems, receive advice from seasoned metal aircraft builders,
>> etc. This airplane will have a training wheel up front, (I am not
>> qualified in tail draggers) I will use the Jabiru 3300 engine and
>> since it will be built to be a sport aircraft I will not have any
>> IFR instruments. I would like to know if there are any builders or
>> owners of completed Zodiac XL aircraft in my area. I am in central
>> Texas.
>>
>>Bob Stone, Harker Heights, Tx
>>rstone4@hot.rr.com
>>
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Thanks for all your ideas on cutting Aluminum |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "AZFlyer" <millrML@AOL.com>
I'm overwhelmed at the response on my question re. "getting a clean edge" on Aluminum.
Thanks. I have tried many of the ideas forwarded and frankly most work
to some degree; but, none work all the time.
I have a jillson snip, a round "thingy", have a pnuematic shear, lots of files,
usually sneak up on the finished cut line, several hand shears, (which work best
for me upside down)....
I believe I'm being too much a perfectionist for this problem. I don't have a
"debur" problem, I think my attitude is wrong.
...now, onto the wings.
Thanks again for your feedback.
--------
Mike Miller @ millrml@aol.com
601 XL, 3300
Remember: "the second mouse gets the cheese"!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=30860#30860
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: New to the list |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Thesumak@aol.com
If you don't mind going old school, you might consider a venturi to drive
your gyro instruments. This is the odd horn-like thing that you sometimes see
mounted on the side of the fuselage of antique airplanes. I use one on my
Ercoupe. I mentioned this option to a couple of folks at the Sun & Fun BBQ and
they both politely giggled.
Also, I am just starting a 601 project and was wondering if there are other
non-registered builders around the Pittsburgh area.
Jones
Ercoupe flying
XL starting
Message 12
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| Subject: | Thanks for all your ideas on cutting Aluminum |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jon Croke" <jon@joncroke.com>
I'm sure that everyone has a few techniques they discover during their life
that they wished they knew about much earlier... you know - the ones that
really make a huge difference (life changing?) - and yet were so simple that
they kick themselves for not grapsing it sooner.....
Well this is one for me... and I'll share it with you for what its worth
(remember, you get what you pay for!)
I am almost finished with my 2nd 701... the first was a kit and the 2nd is
mostly from scratch (except for the 'hard' parts which I purchased!) and it
was during this 2nd build that I had to cut and cut and cut LOTS of sheet
aluminum... and it seems it's a common struggle to get a factory looking
cut... no waves, ripples, and STRAIGHT. It IS time consuming, and if you
are in a little hurry... it shows... and the filing to get rid of the teeth
marks... the stretching.. AND if you need a long cut... it magnifies all
these problems. Well, I did my best for the impatient, in a hurry type of
guy that I am and if you dont like the quality of my final edges that
resulted... then you can go build your own plane and do better! (not
difficult!).
Well it was about 3/4 thru the building of this 2nd plane, while filming
Mark and Dave from Can-Zac for the Scratch Building video that I got a first
hand demonstration of their OLFA knife technique.... COULD NOT believe what
I was missing all these years of cutting metal... by dragging this knife a
few times along a straightedge where you want a cut to be made... the sheet
would separate effortlessly... NO teeth marks, No stretching, No waste, and
NO need for two cuts to get it done. An edge results that is as straight as
your ruler... yes it is sharp but cleans up quickly because you are not
dealing with waves, teeth marks or high/low points.
I now rarley use my Wiss shears anymore.. the OLFA knife was $15.... I first
went out to TruValue Stanley hardware and bought a similar looking knife and
blade... it did NOT work.. I thought OLFA was Swiss... its Japanese made! It
must be something special... in fact, right on the knife it reads: "Special
Tungsten blade" (and I thought tungsten makes your incandescent bulbs
glow!)
If you think this is silly to put this in the category of "life changing"
techniques discovered in life.. consider this: I will CHALLENGE you to the
following: the next time you need a straight cut that will become an edge
of some sort on your aircraft, I will make the cut you need in HALF the TIME
compared to YOU using Wiss shears AND my piece will be STRAIGHTER and more
'factory' looking than yours. That simple. It is much less time consuming
when you consider YOU are making 2 cuts, being extra careful on the second
pass, and then the time you take trying to carefully remove the teeth marks.
And then, you think you can cut 1000 millimeters as straight with your hands
as my straightedge ruler? No way! But this is only for those of you who
are in a hurry AND want professional looking cuts everytime.
I took this a step further when I had to cut the flaperon slots in the
fuselage side... I drilled two holes of proper size to define the ends of
the arc... then used a compass to draw the curves that connect the holes for
both edges of the slot (20mm wide) on a scrap piece of .025 ... I used my
WISS (!) to cut out this scrap curve of metal and placed this metal scrap on
the fuselage connecting the two holes I drilled and used this as a guide to
drag my OLFA cutter... (hope this is clear) Anyhow.. I was able to have
beautiful arc cuts that have no ripples, stretch, or teeth marks. No
dremels, nibblers, shears, etc (I remember my first plane!) Very little
deburring to remove the sharp edge.
Well you have read ENOUGH of this dribble... I have no financial interest in
OLFA but thought Id let you know that this was one rude awakening when I
realize the rest of my plane COULD have been a lot BETTER if I had known
about this technique a LONG time ago.... There is a demonstration by Dave on
the Scratch Building video of how the OFLA is used... you dont need to watch
this to figure it out... and I do have a financial interest in the video so
I dont want to lead you in that direction... but in case I felt strongly
about something I might put this cutting technique on the list of truly
invaluable tips that make you say "DUH I should have known about this a LONG
time ago"...it kind of makes you a craftsman without the effort... because
it is more of a 'knowledge' thing than a skill thing...
OK, enough.
Thanks DAVID Barth
Message 13
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
I just fell of my chair with laughter....:)
Please tell me you are kidding right?...:)
Frank
HDS 395 hours
RV7a almost finished
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Thesumak@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 26, 2006 9:11 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: New to the list
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Thesumak@aol.com
If you don't mind going old school, you might consider a venturi to
drive your gyro instruments. This is the odd horn-like thing that you
sometimes see mounted on the side of the fuselage of antique airplanes.
I use one on my Ercoupe. I mentioned this option to a couple of folks
at the Sun & Fun BBQ and they both politely giggled.
Also, I am just starting a 601 project and was wondering if there are
other non-registered builders around the Pittsburgh area.
Jones
Ercoupe flying
XL starting
Message 14
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| Subject: | Thanks for all your ideas on cutting Aluminum |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
OK I gotta get one..Even though I have no more aluminium edges to cut.
I did an internet search and see there are a number of different
models...All appear to feature break off blades.
So what is the exact model of OLGA knif I need...Or don't need if you
get my drift? ..:)
Frank
Well you have read ENOUGH of this dribble... I have no financial
interest in OLFA but thought Id let you know that this was one rude
awakening when I realize the rest of my plane COULD have been a lot
BETTER if I had known about this technique a LONG time ago.... There is
a demonstration by Dave on the Scratch Building video of how the OFLA is
used... you dont need to watch this to figure it out... and I do have a
financial interest in the video so I dont want to lead you in that
direction... but in case I felt strongly about something I might put
this cutting technique on the list of truly invaluable tips that make
you say "DUH I should have known about this a LONG time ago"...it kind
of makes you a craftsman without the effort... because it is more of a
'knowledge' thing than a skill thing...
OK, enough.
Thanks DAVID Barth
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Thanks for all your ideas on cutting Aluminum |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: ROBERT SCEPPA <rjscep@yahoo.com>
> I have another idea to throw to all sctratch
builders
> I have been involved with other aluminum aircraft.
> Most of the builders when laying out their parts on
> the sheets, draw the lines directly on the sheet.
> I have been using a different method. I bought some
> white contact paper, peeled it, have to careful not
> to cut large pieces, I used long strips and layed
out
> the lines to be cut on a shear or by hand. The paper
> protects the the aluminim from any scratches, it
also
> can be on there for many years without adhearing to
> the metal. I have had previous experience with the
> paper and have not had to struggle getting it off.
> Also if you want to cover the whole part, that's no
> probelem, it will peel off without any trouble.
> Its very good for marking with a ball point pen. It
> leaves no dents either, in the metal. Happy building
> Bob S.
> --- AZFlyer <millrML@AOL.com> wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "AZFlyer"
> <millrML@AOL.com>
>
> I'm overwhelmed at the response on my question re.
> "getting a clean edge" on Aluminum. Thanks. I have
> tried many of the ideas forwarded and frankly most
> work to some degree; but, none work all the time.
>
> I have a jillson snip, a round "thingy", have a
> pnuematic shear, lots of files, usually sneak up on
> the finished cut line, several hand shears, (which
> work best for me upside down)....
>
> I believe I'm being too much a perfectionist for
> this problem. I don't have a "debur" problem, I
> think my attitude is wrong.
>
> ...now, onto the wings.
>
> Thanks again for your feedback.
>
> --------
> Mike Miller @ millrml@aol.com
> 601 XL, 3300
>
> Remember: "the second mouse gets the
> cheese"!
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
>
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=30860#30860
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List
>
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
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Message 16
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| Subject: | Thanks for all your ideas on cutting Aluminum |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "B Johnson" <bjohnson@satx.rr.com>
David,
Is this the one???
<http://www.aaaindustrialsupply.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=598
>
" OLFA Cutter Heavy Duty P-800 Model 5012- 710041
OLFA Cutter Heavy Duty P-800 Model 5012 Produces A Very Fine Score Line To
Allow Precise Breaking Of Plastics And Laminates."
The above link has them for $8.48 free shipping over $25... hrm, I wonder
what other tools I might need from them <grin>
-Bruce Johnson
Scratch Building a Sonex near San Antonio, TX & still have a LOT of sheet
cutting to do!!!
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-zenith-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jon Croke
> Sent: Wednesday, April 26, 2006 11:12 AM
> To: zenith-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Zenith-List: Thanks for all your ideas on cutting Aluminum
>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jon Croke" <jon@joncroke.com>
>
<<snipped intro>>
>hand demonstration of their OLFA knife technique.... COULD NOT believe
> what
> I was missing all these years of cutting metal... by dragging this knife
> a
> few times along a straightedge where you want a cut to be made... the
> sheet
> would separate effortlessly... NO teeth marks, No stretching, No waste,
> and
> NO need for two cuts to get it done. An edge results that is as straight
> as
> your ruler... yes it is sharp but cleans up quickly because you are not
> dealing with waves, teeth marks or high/low points.
>
> I now rarley use my Wiss shears anymore.. the OLFA knife was $15.... I
> first
> went out to TruValue Stanley hardware and bought a similar looking knife
> and
> blade... it did NOT work.. I thought OLFA was Swiss... its Japanese made!
> It
> must be something special... in fact, right on the knife it reads:
> "Special
> Tungsten blade" (and I thought tungsten makes your incandescent bulbs
> glow!)
>
<<more snippage>>
> OK, enough.
>
> Thanks DAVID Barth
>
>
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.385 / Virus Database: 268.4.6/324 - Release Date: 4/25/2006
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Thanks for all your ideas on cutting Aluminum |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jon Croke" <jon@joncroke.com>
I think I knew an Olga... she had a sister...
But the OLFA model is P800... you're right in that they have lots of models
out there. And dont bother getting extra blades if you're just cutting
alumimum.. it comes with extras and they dont seem to wear out!
It IS a wild experience when you make your first cut... you'll say WOW!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 26, 2006 11:48 AM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Thanks for all your ideas on cutting Aluminum
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)"
> <frank.hinde@hp.com>
>
> OK I gotta get one..Even though I have no more aluminium edges to cut.
>
> I did an internet search and see there are a number of different
> models...All appear to feature break off blades.
>
> So what is the exact model of OLGA knif I need...Or don't need if you
> get my drift? ..:)
>
> Frank
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Thanks for all your ideas on cutting Aluminum |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jon Croke" <jon@joncroke.com>
Yep,
Thats the one... and les than $9 bucks! I have yet to find a popular chain
store in the states that carries it. But even if it costs $5 for
shipping... go for it! Save gas!
do not archive
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "B Johnson" <bjohnson@satx.rr.com>
>
> David,
>
> Is this the one???
>
> <http://www.aaaindustrialsupply.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=598
>>
>
> " OLFA Cutter Heavy Duty P-800 Model 5012- 710041
> OLFA Cutter Heavy Duty P-800 Model 5012 Produces A Very Fine Score Line To
> Allow Precise Breaking Of Plastics And Laminates."
>
> The above link has them for $8.48 free shipping over $25... hrm, I wonder
> what other tools I might need from them <grin>
> -Bruce Johnson
> Scratch Building a Sonex near San Antonio, TX & still have a LOT of sheet
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Re: New to the list |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Robert Schoenberger" <hrs1@frontiernet.net>
Don't forget a funky verturi tube. I plan on putting one on my 701 with
gyro instruments to keep me out of trouble with the loss of horizon. Robert
Schoenberger Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Stone" <rstone4@hot.rr.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 26, 2006 10:20 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: New to the list
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Robert L. Stone" <rstone4@hot.rr.com>
>
> Paul,
> I think you are right, I have had some second thoughts about not
> installing any IFR instruments. I plan on using the Jabiru 3300 engine
> and
> I don't know if it has a suction pump or not like the Continental or
> Lycomings do. If it does not I am going to have to pay almost $2,000.00
> for
> an electric attitude indicator. Any instruments I add that work from air
> being sucked through them will have to be electric and cost a lot more
> money. I have written to Jabiru, USA and asked them about this and am
> still
> waiting for an answer.
>
> Bob Stone
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Paul Mulwitz" <p.mulwitz@worldnet.att.net>
> To: <zenith-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, April 26, 2006 5:02 AM
> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: New to the list
>
>
>> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Paul Mulwitz
>> <p.mulwitz@worldnet.att.net>
>>
>> Hi Bob,
>>
>> Welcome aboard.
>>
>> I am building the twin to your plane. I plan, however, to include
>> some gyro instruments for use in the rare times when visual reference
>> to the horizon is absent. This can still be legal VFR, but without
>> clear visual reference to the outside world it can be very hard to
>> keep the shiny side up and the rubber side down.
>>
>> Paul
>> XL wings
>> do not archive
>>
>>
>>
>>> I just yesterday found out about this list so joined. I am
>>> building a ZodiacCH601XL, my first all metal airplane. I have in
>>> the past built the KR-1 and the KR-2 both are composite. I was a
>>> member of the KRNet which is the same as this one, that is a medium
>>> where builders of the same aircraft can exchange ideas, solve
>>> problems, receive advice from seasoned metal aircraft builders,
>>> etc. This airplane will have a training wheel up front, (I am not
>>> qualified in tail draggers) I will use the Jabiru 3300 engine and
>>> since it will be built to be a sport aircraft I will not have any
>>> IFR instruments. I would like to know if there are any builders or
>>> owners of completed Zodiac XL aircraft in my area. I am in central
>>> Texas.
>>>
>>>Bob Stone, Harker Heights, Tx
>>>rstone4@hot.rr.com
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: New to the list |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Robert L. Stone" <rstone4@hot.rr.com>
Hi Bill,
I am sure you are right about the price of the electric DG not looking
so bad when one considers all the the other gear that is required to run a
air suction system. I think I will just stick with the electric DG and bear
the cost. Thanks for the reply.
Bob Stone
----- Original Message -----
From: <JAPhillipsGA@aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 26, 2006 10:09 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: New to the list
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: JAPhillipsGA@aol.com
>
> Bob, I have a vacuum pump on my XL-3300. It attaches to the rear of the
> crankshaft and the engine has mounting points for it. I have to say though
> if I was
> doing it again I would go electric. Sure the electric DG costs more, but
> consider you buy the vacuum pump, the filter and holder, the vacuum
> regulator and
> the DG itself and fittings (which cost a fortune) and hoses and the vacuum
> gage itself and then the electric DG doesn't look so costly. Also, there
> is the
> extra weight and complexity with the system, (more stuff to breakdown or
> be
> adjusted) not to mention the drag on engine performance for the pump. At
> some
> point I am planning on a change for my bird. If you still want the system
> contact
> me off thread and I will make you a deal. FWIW, Best regards, Bill of
> Georgia
>
> do not archive
>
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: New to the list |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Robert L. Stone" <rstone4@hot.rr.com>
Hi Paul,
First let me say, thanks for the prompt reply. Someone told me that if
I express an opinion or idea that some member does not agree with I will get
flamed. I have a thick skin and have survived two wars (Korea and Vietnam)
so let them flame away, I couldn't care less. Since this is my first metal
aircraft, I am sure I will do a lot more reading than writing anyway.
I have had the experience of making a VFR flight and encountering
marginal weather or even flying into a cloud so I want a AI but since my
aircraft is being built as a Sport Aircraft and I will soon not be able to
pass a regular flight physical, and instrument flying is not permitted
anyway it's the only IFR instrument I want. I am going to have a card
compass so I dont need a DG
I am interested in what you think is the best EFIS on the market and
also tell me what the initials EFIS stand for.
Bob Stone
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Mulwitz" <p.mulwitz@worldnet.att.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 26, 2006 10:13 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: New to the list
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Paul Mulwitz
> <p.mulwitz@worldnet.att.net>
>
> Hi Bob,
>
> I believe the Jabiru has the drive port for a vacuum pump but the
> pump is an extra option. I don't plan to use one, so I am not sure
> about the price but I don't think it is a lot.
>
> There are several options for VFR class instruments. I plan to go
> with an EFIS which gives complete IFR style information for around
> the price you quoted for one electric gyro. Also, you don't need
> TSO'd instruments, so you can probably get a much lower price for
> instruments you probably won't use much anyway.
>
> I did a quick look at Aircraft Spruce's web site and came up with two
> alternatives you can consider for under $1000. I found a non TSO
> Vacuum driven turn and bank indicator around $350 and a vacuum pump
> around $200. For around $800 you can get an electric turn and bank
> indicator. With a bit of instrument training you can easily fly out
> of a low visibility situation with one of these instruments and an
> airspeed and altimeter. The turn and bank is quite sufficient for
> instrument flight and is a lot more dependable than an attitude
> indicator since it is not able to tumble.
>
> Good luck,
>
> Paul
> XL wings
>
> At 07:20 AM 4/26/2006, you wrote:
>>Paul,
>> I think you are right, I have had some second thoughts about not
>>installing any IFR instruments. I plan on using the Jabiru 3300 engine
>>and
>>I don't know if it has a suction pump or not like the Continental or
>>Lycomings do. If it does not I am going to have to pay almost $2,000.00
>>for
>>an electric attitude indicator. Any instruments I add that work from air
>>being sucked through them will have to be electric and cost a lot more
>>money. I have written to Jabiru, USA and asked them about this and am
>>still
>>waiting for an answer.
>>
>>Bob Stone
>
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: New to the list |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Robert L. Stone" <rstone4@hot.rr.com>
Frank,
I see Corvallis right after your name, does this mean Corvallis,
Oregon? Tell me more about this Dynon. A picture of one would be welcome
as well. I am just getting started with my project and plan on keeping my
mouth shut other than to ask questions. I have built two aircraft prior to
this one but this was way back in the 70's so I don't know much about the
new equipment on the market. My question about Corvallis was because I was
born and raised in Portland, Oregon.
Bob Stone
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 26, 2006 10:15 AM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: New to the list
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)"
> <frank.hinde@hp.com>
>
> Vacuum pumps suck...In more ways than one.
>
> I would suggest a large format Dynon is a far better investment than
> electric standalone instruments and no moving parts. The Dynon gives
> attitude indication and a DG all rolled into one (together with a bunch
> of other instruments). That's what is going into my and many other's IFR
> RV's.
>
> I would not even consider going with a vacuum pump whether the engine
> can drive one or not..
>
> Frank
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert L.
> Stone
> Sent: Wednesday, April 26, 2006 7:21 AM
> To: zenith-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: New to the list
>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Robert L. Stone"
> --> <rstone4@hot.rr.com>
>
> Paul,
> I think you are right, I have had some second thoughts about not
> installing any IFR instruments. I plan on using the Jabiru 3300 engine
> and I don't know if it has a suction pump or not like the Continental or
> Lycomings do. If it does not I am going to have to pay almost $2,000.00
> for an electric attitude indicator. Any instruments I add that work
> from air being sucked through them will have to be electric and cost a
> lot more money. I have written to Jabiru, USA and asked them about this
> and am still waiting for an answer.
>
> Bob Stone
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Paul Mulwitz" <p.mulwitz@worldnet.att.net>
> To: <zenith-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, April 26, 2006 5:02 AM
> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: New to the list
>
>
>> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Paul Mulwitz
>> <p.mulwitz@worldnet.att.net>
>>
>> Hi Bob,
>>
>> Welcome aboard.
>>
>> I am building the twin to your plane. I plan, however, to include
>> some gyro instruments for use in the rare times when visual reference
>> to the horizon is absent. This can still be legal VFR, but without
>> clear visual reference to the outside world it can be very hard to
>> keep the shiny side up and the rubber side down.
>>
>> Paul
>> XL wings
>> do not archive
>>
>>
>>
>>> I just yesterday found out about this list so joined. I am
>>> building a ZodiacCH601XL, my first all metal airplane. I have in
>>> the past built the KR-1 and the KR-2 both are composite. I was a
>>> member of the KRNet which is the same as this one, that is a medium
>>> where builders of the same aircraft can exchange ideas, solve
>>> problems, receive advice from seasoned metal aircraft builders,
>>> etc. This airplane will have a training wheel up front, (I am not
>>> qualified in tail draggers) I will use the Jabiru 3300 engine and
>>> since it will be built to be a sport aircraft I will not have any
>>> IFR instruments. I would like to know if there are any builders or
>>> owners of completed Zodiac XL aircraft in my area. I am in central
>>> Texas.
>>>
>>>Bob Stone, Harker Heights, Tx
>>>rstone4@hot.rr.com
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 23
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
Bob I really think if you do that your making an expensive mistake
As I understand it the electric DG and AH are still a mechanical gyro
that is spun with an electric motor...Correct??
If so The Dynon EFIS is a solid state gyro...I.e no moving parts and
thus a MUCh better investment.
If you only want a DG then might I suggest you take a look at the
Digitrack line of autopilots...The Pictorial pilot is a solid state
device that combines the turn coordinator display and a full single axis
autopilot that controls the roll...You can even slave it to your
handheld GPS, and have it fly you to any airport in your GPS database.
For $1800 that's is an awesome deal and three times the electric DG
instrument.
Just to give you a clue...i don't know any RV drivers that are using
Electric gyro instruments nor any vacuum pumps that are currently under
construction....And a lot of those are IFR machines.
The reason is mechanical gyros, (electric or vacuum) are expensive, have
wearing parts and are so 20th century.
The Pictorial pilot is currently installed in my RV project and if I
were keeping the 601, that would be instrument I would be installing.
Frank
HDS 395 hours
RV7A almost complete
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert L.
Stone
Sent: Wednesday, April 26, 2006 11:53 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: New to the list
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Robert L. Stone"
--> <rstone4@hot.rr.com>
Hi Bill,
I am sure you are right about the price of the electric DG not
looking so bad when one considers all the the other gear that is
required to run a air suction system. I think I will just stick with
the electric DG and bear the cost. Thanks for the reply.
Bob Stone
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Enco rivet gun on sale |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Ron Butterfield <rbutterfield@mebtel.net>
A shipment came in today from Enco Tools, and the flyer in the box
mentioned a pneumatic riveter on sale:
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=801-1250&PMPXNO=950023&PARTPG=INLMK3
(or http://tinyurl.com/z3nlh )
Click on the master catalog page for a picture (regular price $48).
I have _not_ seen or used this item, so cannot make any claims as to
whether, or how well, it works.
Regards,
RonB
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Re: New to the list |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Robert L. Stone" <rstone4@hot.rr.com>
I would call you by your first name if I knew what it was.
I just wanted to say that a polite giggle is nothing. If you express
an idea or how you did something on any of these internet airplane builders
clubs you are going to have a few rude idiots who will flame the hell out of
you and tell you you are a stupid ass and don't know what you ae talking
about. I had it happen to me many times when I was on the KRNet. Don't let
it bother you and don't leave the Zenith List. If you think you have a good
idea or you did something that worked out well by all means tell the rest of
us. That's the purpose of this list. They may kill you but they can't eat
you.
Bob Stone
----- Original Message -----
From: <Thesumak@aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 26, 2006 11:10 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: New to the list
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Thesumak@aol.com
>
>
> If you don't mind going old school, you might consider a venturi to drive
> your gyro instruments. This is the odd horn-like thing that you
> sometimes see
> mounted on the side of the fuselage of antique airplanes. I use one on
> my
> Ercoupe. I mentioned this option to a couple of folks at the Sun & Fun
> BBQ and
> they both politely giggled.
> Also, I am just starting a 601 project and was wondering if there are
> other
> non-registered builders around the Pittsburgh area.
> Jones
> Ercoupe flying
> XL starting
>
>
>
Message 26
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|
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
Yup Corvallis Oregon...:)
Here 2 links (see my other mil on the autopilot idea...Yeah I know what
your thinking..."What an autopilot?...I'm not building a Lanceair
here"...Read on and be prepared to be amazed..:)..)
http://www.dynonavionics.com/
http://www.trutrakflightsystems.com/
The Pictorial pilot can be found on sale from dealers for roughly $100
off the list price. If you want something to get you out of trouble the
Pictorial pilot is the way I would go...Plus it will do most of the
flying for you
I have both of the above instruments in my RV project and on the ground
at least they look VERY impressive...Other who have flown them rave
about them both.
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert L.
Stone
Sent: Wednesday, April 26, 2006 12:12 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: New to the list
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Robert L. Stone"
--> <rstone4@hot.rr.com>
Frank,
I see Corvallis right after your name, does this mean Corvallis,
Oregon? Tell me more about this Dynon. A picture of one would be
welcome as well. I am just getting started with my project and plan on
keeping my mouth shut other than to ask questions. I have built two
aircraft prior to this one but this was way back in the 70's so I don't
know much about the new equipment on the market. My question about
Corvallis was because I was born and raised in Portland, Oregon.
Bob Stone
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Re: Thanks for all your ideas on cutting Aluminum |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Randy Bryant" <randy@shadycreekoutlaws.com>
Wished I'd knew this a few days earlier... I just ordered and received a
Olfa P-800 today... with 6 spare blades!
Randy
N344RB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jon Croke" <jon@joncroke.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 26, 2006 1:52 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Thanks for all your ideas on cutting Aluminum
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jon Croke" <jon@joncroke.com>
>
> I think I knew an Olga... she had a sister...
>
> But the OLFA model is P800... you're right in that they have lots of
> models
> out there. And dont bother getting extra blades if you're just cutting
> alumimum.. it comes with extras and they dont seem to wear out!
>
> It IS a wild experience when you make your first cut... you'll say WOW!
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
> To: <zenith-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, April 26, 2006 11:48 AM
> Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Thanks for all your ideas on cutting Aluminum
>
>
>> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)"
>> <frank.hinde@hp.com>
>>
>> OK I gotta get one..Even though I have no more aluminium edges to cut.
>>
>> I did an internet search and see there are a number of different
>> models...All appear to feature break off blades.
>>
>> So what is the exact model of OLGA knif I need...Or don't need if you
>> get my drift? ..:)
>>
>> Frank
>>
>
>
>
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: New to the list |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Randy Bryant" <randy@shadycreekoutlaws.com>
EFIS is an acronym for "Electronic Flight Information System".
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Stone" <rstone4@hot.rr.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 26, 2006 3:06 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: New to the list
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Robert L. Stone" <rstone4@hot.rr.com>
>
> Hi Paul,
> First let me say, thanks for the prompt reply. Someone told me that
> if
> I express an opinion or idea that some member does not agree with I will
> get
> flamed. I have a thick skin and have survived two wars (Korea and
> Vietnam)
> so let them flame away, I couldn't care less. Since this is my first
> metal
> aircraft, I am sure I will do a lot more reading than writing anyway.
> I have had the experience of making a VFR flight and encountering
> marginal weather or even flying into a cloud so I want a AI but since my
> aircraft is being built as a Sport Aircraft and I will soon not be able to
> pass a regular flight physical, and instrument flying is not permitted
> anyway it's the only IFR instrument I want. I am going to have a card
> compass so I dont need a DG
> I am interested in what you think is the best EFIS on the market and
> also tell me what the initials EFIS stand for.
>
> Bob Stone
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Paul Mulwitz" <p.mulwitz@worldnet.att.net>
> To: <zenith-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, April 26, 2006 10:13 AM
> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: New to the list
>
>
>> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Paul Mulwitz
>> <p.mulwitz@worldnet.att.net>
>>
>> Hi Bob,
>>
>> I believe the Jabiru has the drive port for a vacuum pump but the
>> pump is an extra option. I don't plan to use one, so I am not sure
>> about the price but I don't think it is a lot.
>>
>> There are several options for VFR class instruments. I plan to go
>> with an EFIS which gives complete IFR style information for around
>> the price you quoted for one electric gyro. Also, you don't need
>> TSO'd instruments, so you can probably get a much lower price for
>> instruments you probably won't use much anyway.
>>
>> I did a quick look at Aircraft Spruce's web site and came up with two
>> alternatives you can consider for under $1000. I found a non TSO
>> Vacuum driven turn and bank indicator around $350 and a vacuum pump
>> around $200. For around $800 you can get an electric turn and bank
>> indicator. With a bit of instrument training you can easily fly out
>> of a low visibility situation with one of these instruments and an
>> airspeed and altimeter. The turn and bank is quite sufficient for
>> instrument flight and is a lot more dependable than an attitude
>> indicator since it is not able to tumble.
>>
>> Good luck,
>>
>> Paul
>> XL wings
>>
>> At 07:20 AM 4/26/2006, you wrote:
>>>Paul,
>>> I think you are right, I have had some second thoughts about not
>>>installing any IFR instruments. I plan on using the Jabiru 3300 engine
>>>and
>>>I don't know if it has a suction pump or not like the Continental or
>>>Lycomings do. If it does not I am going to have to pay almost $2,000.00
>>>for
>>>an electric attitude indicator. Any instruments I add that work from air
>>>being sucked through them will have to be electric and cost a lot more
>>>money. I have written to Jabiru, USA and asked them about this and am
>>>still
>>>waiting for an answer.
>>>
>>>Bob Stone
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: New to the list |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Edward Moody II" <dredmoody@cox.net>
Check out www.dynonavionics.com
Ed Moody II
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Robert L. Stone" <rstone4@hot.rr.com>
Tell me more about this Dynon. A picture of one would be welcome
> as well.
Do Not Archive
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Thanks for all your ideas on cutting Aluminum |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Randy Bryant" <randy@shadycreekoutlaws.com>
I'm hoping you're right on the Olfa knife... I received 2 knives and 6
extra blades today, that I ordered last week...
Randy
N344RB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jon Croke" <jon@joncroke.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 26, 2006 12:11 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Thanks for all your ideas on cutting Aluminum
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jon Croke" <jon@joncroke.com>
>
> I'm sure that everyone has a few techniques they discover during their
> life
> that they wished they knew about much earlier... you know - the ones that
> really make a huge difference (life changing?) - and yet were so simple
> that
> they kick themselves for not grapsing it sooner.....
>
> Well this is one for me... and I'll share it with you for what its worth
> (remember, you get what you pay for!)
>
> I am almost finished with my 2nd 701... the first was a kit and the 2nd is
> mostly from scratch (except for the 'hard' parts which I purchased!) and
> it
> was during this 2nd build that I had to cut and cut and cut LOTS of sheet
> aluminum... and it seems it's a common struggle to get a factory looking
> cut... no waves, ripples, and STRAIGHT. It IS time consuming, and if you
> are in a little hurry... it shows... and the filing to get rid of the
> teeth
> marks... the stretching.. AND if you need a long cut... it magnifies all
> these problems. Well, I did my best for the impatient, in a hurry type of
> guy that I am and if you dont like the quality of my final edges that
> resulted... then you can go build your own plane and do better! (not
> difficult!).
>
> Well it was about 3/4 thru the building of this 2nd plane, while filming
> Mark and Dave from Can-Zac for the Scratch Building video that I got a
> first
> hand demonstration of their OLFA knife technique.... COULD NOT believe
> what
> I was missing all these years of cutting metal... by dragging this knife
> a
> few times along a straightedge where you want a cut to be made... the
> sheet
> would separate effortlessly... NO teeth marks, No stretching, No waste,
> and
> NO need for two cuts to get it done. An edge results that is as straight
> as
> your ruler... yes it is sharp but cleans up quickly because you are not
> dealing with waves, teeth marks or high/low points.
>
> I now rarley use my Wiss shears anymore.. the OLFA knife was $15.... I
> first
> went out to TruValue Stanley hardware and bought a similar looking knife
> and
> blade... it did NOT work.. I thought OLFA was Swiss... its Japanese made!
> It
> must be something special... in fact, right on the knife it reads:
> "Special
> Tungsten blade" (and I thought tungsten makes your incandescent bulbs
> glow!)
>
> If you think this is silly to put this in the category of "life changing"
> techniques discovered in life.. consider this: I will CHALLENGE you to
> the
> following: the next time you need a straight cut that will become an edge
> of some sort on your aircraft, I will make the cut you need in HALF the
> TIME
> compared to YOU using Wiss shears AND my piece will be STRAIGHTER and more
> 'factory' looking than yours. That simple. It is much less time consuming
> when you consider YOU are making 2 cuts, being extra careful on the second
> pass, and then the time you take trying to carefully remove the teeth
> marks.
> And then, you think you can cut 1000 millimeters as straight with your
> hands
> as my straightedge ruler? No way! But this is only for those of you who
> are in a hurry AND want professional looking cuts everytime.
>
> I took this a step further when I had to cut the flaperon slots in the
> fuselage side... I drilled two holes of proper size to define the ends of
> the arc... then used a compass to draw the curves that connect the holes
> for
> both edges of the slot (20mm wide) on a scrap piece of .025 ... I used
> my
> WISS (!) to cut out this scrap curve of metal and placed this metal scrap
> on
> the fuselage connecting the two holes I drilled and used this as a guide
> to
> drag my OLFA cutter... (hope this is clear) Anyhow.. I was able to have
> beautiful arc cuts that have no ripples, stretch, or teeth marks. No
> dremels, nibblers, shears, etc (I remember my first plane!) Very little
> deburring to remove the sharp edge.
>
> Well you have read ENOUGH of this dribble... I have no financial interest
> in
> OLFA but thought Id let you know that this was one rude awakening when I
> realize the rest of my plane COULD have been a lot BETTER if I had known
> about this technique a LONG time ago.... There is a demonstration by Dave
> on
> the Scratch Building video of how the OFLA is used... you dont need to
> watch
> this to figure it out... and I do have a financial interest in the video
> so
> I dont want to lead you in that direction... but in case I felt strongly
> about something I might put this cutting technique on the list of truly
> invaluable tips that make you say "DUH I should have known about this a
> LONG
> time ago"...it kind of makes you a craftsman without the effort... because
> it is more of a 'knowledge' thing than a skill thing...
>
> OK, enough.
>
> Thanks DAVID Barth
>
>
>
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Enco rivet gun on sale |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Randy Bryant" <randy@shadycreekoutlaws.com>
Has anyone bought a similar tool and tried grinding the concave on the tip
for the Avex countersunk rivets? To me that seems like it might be a bit
difficult to get right...
Randy
N344RB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Butterfield" <rbutterfield@mebtel.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 26, 2006 3:25 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Enco rivet gun on sale
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Ron Butterfield
> <rbutterfield@mebtel.net>
>
> A shipment came in today from Enco Tools, and the flyer in the box
> mentioned a pneumatic riveter on sale:
> http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=801-1250&PMPXNO=950023&PARTPG=INLMK3
> (or http://tinyurl.com/z3nlh )
> Click on the master catalog page for a picture (regular price $48).
>
> I have _not_ seen or used this item, so cannot make any claims as to
> whether, or how well, it works.
>
>
> Regards,
> RonB
>
>
>
Message 32
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| Subject: | Enco rivet gun on sale |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
Really need a lther and a ball end mill to do it right ..>At least that
was the way I did it...Or simply send your riet tip to ZAC who will
concave them for you...I wold get two sets done, spares are always
needed.
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy
Bryant
Sent: Wednesday, April 26, 2006 1:07 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Enco rivet gun on sale
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Randy Bryant"
--> <randy@shadycreekoutlaws.com>
Has anyone bought a similar tool and tried grinding the concave on the
tip for the Avex countersunk rivets? To me that seems like it might be
a bit difficult to get right...
Randy
N344RB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Butterfield" <rbutterfield@mebtel.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 26, 2006 3:25 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Enco rivet gun on sale
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Ron Butterfield
> <rbutterfield@mebtel.net>
>
> A shipment came in today from Enco Tools, and the flyer in the box
> mentioned a pneumatic riveter on sale:
>
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=801-1250&PMPXNO=950023&PARTPG=I
NLMK3
> (or http://tinyurl.com/z3nlh )
> Click on the master catalog page for a picture (regular price $48).
>
> I have _not_ seen or used this item, so cannot make any claims as to
> whether, or how well, it works.
>
>
> Regards,
> RonB
>
>
>
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: Enco rivet gun on sale |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Jaybannist@cs.com
I don't know that I got it exactly right, but close enough for me. I have
ground four of them for different rivet pullers. I just heated up the nose piece
to a cherry red and let it cool. Then it can be ground with any number of
tools. I have used a Dremel with both round cutting heads and round grinding
heads. I think the metal ones give a smoother result.
Jay in Dallas - 601XL half done with second wing.
do not archive
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: Enco rivet gun on sale |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Randy L. Thwing" <n4546v@mindspring.com>
For a short article on the easy way to form puller heads using Dremel
tool, go to the archives for a short article I offered. It is message
#11121 or use the search word: "gottem" and it is the only message that
will come up.
Regards,
Randy L. Thwing, 701 plans
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Enco rivet gun on sale
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)"
<frank.hinde@hp.com>
>
> Really need a lther and a ball end mill to do it right ..>At least that
> was the way I did it...Or simply send your riet tip to ZAC who will
> concave them for you...I wold get two sets done, spares are always
> needed.
>
> Frank
Message 35
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| Subject: | 912 oil "thermostat" |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Zed Smith <zsmith3rd@earthlink.net>
List,
A Rotax "Service Letter" (SL-912-011) mentions use of a thermostat in the lubrication
system of the 912.
Goes on to say that Rotax doesn't supply this item, not much other info other than
the usual disclaimers about possible mis-translation from the original German
into gud 'ol boy English.
Anybody seen this, using this, etc? Seems it might hasten the warm-up but I'm
wondering how continued circulation/pressure might be maintained while waiting
for the thermostat to "open". Any comments, Gents?
Any source specifically tailored for the 912?
Regards & thanks
Zed/701/R912/etc/etc/do not archive/death to fire ants!
Message 36
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| Subject: | 912 oil "thermostat" |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "george may" <gfmjr_20@hotmail.com>
>A Rotax "Service Letter" (SL-912-011) mentions use of a thermostat in the
>lubrication system of the 912.
>
Zed--
I installed an oil thermostat. It was recommended by Lockwood Aviation and
is
available from them. I've only done an initial start up on my engine so far
therefore,
I have no in flight info yet.
George May
601xl 912s
_________________________________________________________________
Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's FREE!
http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/
Message 37
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| Subject: | Re: Enco rivet gun on sale |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Tim Juhl" <juhl@avci.net>
Zenith will grind your nosepieces for $8 apiece.
--------
CFII
Champ L16A flying
Zodiac XL - awaiting kit
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=30956#30956
Message 38
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: Afterfxllc@aol.com
Hi all
I am just finishing my tail feathers and will be starting the wings in a day
or 2....I also wanted everyone to know I will have my web cam on most of the
time thru out the build.
The address is: _www.ftpbandit.ww.com_ (http://www.ftpbandit.ww.com) I will
also have my yahoo open if you care to chat...However I will have limited
chat time (if any) lol due to the fact it will cut into my build time.
Blue Skies
Jeff
Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: Enco rivet gun on sale |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Paul Mulwitz <p.mulwitz@worldnet.att.net>
I have taken to making my own nose pieces for riveters.
I bought the set from ZAC and used it for a while. The problems I
have had with their design included poor looking finished rivets (the
A5 nose piece left gouges on one side of the rivet head) and a
tendency to set the rivets at an angle which I always wanted to drill
out and replace.
My latest set of nose pieces is a lot easier to use. I have a much
wider nose on each one so it is easy to see when it is parallel
(perpendicular?) to the work piece so the rivet is set straight.
I make my nose pieces from round stock on a metal lathe. The basic
cup shape is cut with a round nose milling cutter mounted in the tail
stock. After determining the correct cup depth with a few sample
rivet tests I round the edges on the front of the nose piece and
polish it all up with a dremel tool and rubberized abrasive thingies.
I hope this helps someone.
Paul
XL wings.
>Zenith will grind your nosepieces for $8 apiece.
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: Enco rivet gun on sale |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Larry Portouw" <Larry@portouw.com>
I just bought a pneumatic gun on ebay and send the nose pieces off to ZAC. What
I got back pulls better rivets than the factory supplied hand riveter. My recomendation
is to send 'em off to ZAC.
Larry Portouw
H. Stab 601XL Kit
Atlanta, GA
--------
Larry Portouw
601XL Kit (H. Stab)
Atlanta, GA
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=30969#30969
Message 41
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| Subject: | Re: 912 oil "thermostat" |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Trevor Page <webmaster@upac.ca>
Zed, you can purchase the item from Lockwood. Very easy to install
and makes warm-up of the oil a 2-minute affair even on the coldest days.
Has worked very well for me.
Trevor Page
UPAC Webmaster
www.upac.ca
On Apr 26, 2006, at 5:05 PM, Zed Smith wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Zed Smith <zsmith3rd@earthlink.net>
>
> List,
>
> A Rotax "Service Letter" (SL-912-011) mentions use of a thermostat
> in the lubrication system of the 912.
> Goes on to say that Rotax doesn't supply this item, not much other
> info other than the usual disclaimers about possible mis-
> translation from the original German into gud 'ol boy English.
>
> Anybody seen this, using this, etc? Seems it might hasten the
> warm-up but I'm wondering how continued circulation/pressure might
> be maintained while waiting for the thermostat to "open". Any
> comments, Gents?
> Any source specifically tailored for the 912?
>
> Regards & thanks
>
> Zed/701/R912/etc/etc/do not archive/death to fire ants!
>
>
Message 42
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| Subject: | Re: Enco rivet gun on sale |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Ron Lendon" <rlendon@comcast.net>
To modify the noses pieces:
3/8 Drill motor, Bench Vice, Die Grinder, Acorn shaped carbide bit.
Make sure you have centered the nose piece in the chuck by spining it. Put some
color on the nose piece before begining the grinding. It lets you see better
where the tool bit touches.
Start the drill motor and lock it on, start the die grinder and touch off in the
center. Use a light touch and stop to see if it is really centered. If OK continue
to shape untill it is about right, then test it. Once the tests prove
good, use sandpaper and red scotchbrite to polish out the tool marks.
It really is easy and if you go to deep just grind it flat and start over. Using
the carbide burr no heat is required.
--------
Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
Corvair Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder
Do Not Archive
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=30993#30993
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/fp15032006a00047_137.jpeg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/fp15032006a00046_329.jpeg
Message 43
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|
| Subject: | Re: Rivet puller tips. Was Re: Enco rivet gun |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Brandon Tucker <btucke73@yahoo.com>
I had a ZAC supplied hand rivet puller with
ground tips that did not fit my pneumatic gun. It
took me about 10 minutes per tip to grind my own,
using the procedure I have described a couple of times
in the archives. Rivets pulled by my tips are
indistinguishable from the ZAC tip.
Sending them to ZAC works, but if you want to
save $25 or need them a little quicker, do it
yourself. It is a piece of cake...
R/
Brandon Tucker
601 HDS in final assembly
http://home.sandiego.edu/~btucker-03/
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
Message 44
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| Subject: | Re: Enco rivet gun on sale |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Paul Mulwitz <p.mulwitz@worldnet.att.net>
I've found if you go too deep you can fix it by taking a little bit
off the flat part of the nose piece with a normal file. You can
test the result by setting a rivet and cutting across it to see if
the internal layer is flat to the surface of the piece being riveted.
Paul
XL wings
At 08:08 PM 4/26/2006, you wrote:
>It really is easy and if you go to deep just grind it flat and start
>over. Using the carbide burr no heat is required.
Message 45
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| Subject: | Re: Enco rivet gun on sale |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Randy Bryant" <randy@shadycreekoutlaws.com>
Since I didn't already have a pneumatic rivet gun, and deciding about 1/2
way through building my HS that I would have one before I started my wings,
I ordered one of these Enco riveters today... I believe I'll try the
methods described here to grind my own tips as well... My cousin who is
building a 601HD grinds his own, I'll get him to help me out on the first
set...
Thanks for all the input and help!
Randy
N344RB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Mulwitz" <p.mulwitz@worldnet.att.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 26, 2006 11:56 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Re: Enco rivet gun on sale
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Paul Mulwitz
> <p.mulwitz@worldnet.att.net>
>
> I've found if you go too deep you can fix it by taking a little bit
> off the flat part of the nose piece with a normal file. You can
> test the result by setting a rivet and cutting across it to see if
> the internal layer is flat to the surface of the piece being riveted.
>
> Paul
> XL wings
>
> At 08:08 PM 4/26/2006, you wrote:
>>It really is easy and if you go to deep just grind it flat and start
>>over. Using the carbide burr no heat is required.
>
>
>
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