Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:17 AM - Re: Low speed takeoffs and stall Airpseed. LRI (Jean-Paul Roy)
2. 03:57 AM - Re: Lycoming O-235 firewall forward (steveadams)
3. 04:14 AM - Re: Low speed takeoffs and stall Airpseed. LRI (Paul Mulwitz)
4. 04:44 AM - Re: Low speed takeoffs and stall Airpseed. LRI (Zodie Rocket)
5. 05:28 AM - Re: Cordless drill outcome (Trainnut01@aol.com)
6. 05:36 AM - Re: Stabilizer Tips (Trainnut01@aol.com)
7. 05:36 AM - Re: Low speed takeoffs and stall Airpseed. LRI (Jean-Paul Roy)
8. 06:03 AM - Re: Stabilizer Tips (N5SL)
9. 06:14 AM - Re: Stabilizer Tips (Michael Valentine)
10. 06:36 AM - Re: Stabilizer Tips (LarryMcFarland)
11. 06:38 AM - Re: Stabilizer Tips (Gary Boothe)
12. 06:41 AM - Re: Low speed takeoffs and stall Airpseed. LRI (Gig Giacona)
13. 07:02 AM - Re: Stabilizer Tips (Randy Bryant)
14. 07:14 AM - Re: Stabilizer Tips (Richard Vetterli)
15. 07:38 AM - Re: Low speed takeoffs and stall Airpseed. LRI (JAPhillipsGA@aol.com)
16. 07:57 AM - Re: Stabilizer Tips (Trainnut01@aol.com)
17. 08:04 AM - Re: Octain Rating is not energy content in auto fuel - Its BTU (... (Clmelenyzeriv@cs.com)
18. 08:19 AM - Re: Stabilizer Tips (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
19. 08:39 AM - Re: Octain Rating is not energy content in auto fuel - Its BTU (... (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
20. 08:47 AM - Re: Low speed takeoffs and stall Airpseed. LRI (ron dewees)
21. 08:50 AM - Re: Re: Low speed takeoffs and stall Airpseed. LRI (Paul Mulwitz)
22. 08:50 AM - Re: Cordless drill outcome ()
23. 11:09 AM - Re: Stabilizer Tips (CH701)
24. 11:13 AM - Re: Low speed takeoffs and stall Airpseed. LRI (Paul Mulwitz)
25. 12:51 PM - 701 slow flight (Zed Smith)
26. 12:52 PM - Re: Low speed takeoffs and stall Airpseed. (Gary Liming)
27. 12:55 PM - Painting (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
28. 02:10 PM - Re: Painting (LarryMcFarland)
29. 02:10 PM - Re: Painting Tips (N5SL)
30. 03:04 PM - Re: Painting (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
31. 03:36 PM - Re: Painting (Bill Naumuk)
32. 03:36 PM - Re: Re: Drills and wiring (Bill Naumuk)
33. 04:16 PM - Re: Stabilizer Tips (Bill Naumuk)
34. 05:22 PM - Re: ASI Markings and Manual (Phil Maxson)
35. 05:31 PM - Re: Stabilizer Tips (Graeme)
36. 05:37 PM - Re: Stabilizer Tips (Bill Naumuk)
37. 06:15 PM - Flanging Dies for CH601's (David Mikesell)
38. 07:06 PM - Re: Stabilizer Tips (Randy Bryant)
39. 07:49 PM - Re: Painting (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
40. 07:49 PM - Re: Flanging Dies for CH601's (jsimons2)
41. 10:35 PM - Re: Stabilizer Tips (JOHN STARN)
42. 11:47 PM - Re: Low speed takeoffs and stall Airpseed. LRI (Long post) (Gary Gower)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Low speed takeoffs and stall Airpseed. LRI |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jean-Paul Roy" <jean-paul.roy4@tlb.sympatico.ca>
Hello all. Just one question. Where can this LRI instrument be bought?
Jean-Paul Roy
just received the wing kit
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "ron dewees" <rdewees@mindspring.com>
Sent: Monday, June 05, 2006 10:26 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Low speed takeoffs and stall Airpseed. LRI
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: ron dewees <rdewees@mindspring.com>
>
> Hi Paul and Gary,
> I can't speak to the 701 installation of a LRI but have had a LRI in my
> 601HDS for almost a year and a half. I posted pictures of the probe and
> indicator on Scott Laughlin's website and would not fly without it. My
> field is short and rough and I found that my landings were unnecessarily
> long and fast. Using the LRI I have shortened the takeoff and landing
> distance and cut down considerably on wear and tear on the plane and my
> nerves. I highly reccomend one.
> As far as being too busy to look at one while close to the ground I
> found that it's THE most important instrument to look at close to the
> ground. I mounted mine above the instrument panel so it's in my line of
> sight as I look out the canopy. A few ex-military pilots recognize it
> but almost all GA pilots are clueless as to it's function untill they
> see it in action. Total cost was less than $80 or so. Only downside is
> that the Dwyer differential pressure gauge used on mine as in indicator
> is an odd size-- I guess 3 or 3 1/2 inches so it's hard to put in line
> with other instruments. I have seen expensive and complex digital
> models that illiminate sequential red or green LEDs but I like the
> analog needle that gives immediate feedback on wing's lift. I installed
> it to let me know when the wing was about to stall so I could land
> slower but found that it's just as handy to lift off short in ground
> effect and watch the lift available rise to a safe level before rotating
> and climbing out Works just as well to give warning of an impending
> departure stall or if you do a high speed turn or chandelle it lets you
> know what the state of lift remaining is.
> If you ever fly with one you won't be without one. Just don't stick it
> in a corner where you can't see it easily.
>
> Ron
>
> Gary Gower wrote:
>
> > Hello Paul,
> >
> > I have mine installed in the 701, Is a diferent type of airplane
> > that the 601, because the 701 has two diferent angle of attack in the
> > wing.
> >
> > I am now building a 601 XL that will also have an LRI installed,
> > but I am very far from the kit looking as an airplane...
> >
> > Hope this helps. Because I am sure that the XL can make impressive
> > short field landings in grass strips if flow correctly... Time will
> > say (in my case).
> >
> > Saludos
> > Gary Gower.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Lycoming O-235 firewall forward |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "steveadams" <dr_steve_adams@yahoo.com>
You could check with AMD, since they build the S-SLA version of the 601 with the
0-235. I'm sure they could be of some help.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=38883#38883
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Low speed takeoffs and stall Airpseed. LRI |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Paul Mulwitz <p.mulwitz@worldnet.att.net>
At 03:11 AM 6/6/2006, you wrote:
>Hello all. Just one question. Where can this LRI instrument be bought?
--
I built mine from plans available on the net. However, you can also
buy them as complete systems. One source I found from a google search:
http://www.liftreserve.com/Faqinst.htm
Paul
XL wings
do not archive
Message 4
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| Subject: | Low speed takeoffs and stall Airpseed. LRI |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Zodie Rocket" <zodierocket@hsfx.ca>
You can build the LRI from Plans I have on www.ch601.org in the Builder
Resources section. This is an instrument I would never be without.
Mark Townsend Alma, Ontario
Zodiac 601XL C-GOXL, CH701 just started
www.ch601.org / www.ch701.com / www.Osprey2.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jean-Paul
Roy
Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2006 6:11 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Low speed takeoffs and stall Airpseed. LRI
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jean-Paul Roy"
<jean-paul.roy4@tlb.sympatico.ca>
Hello all. Just one question. Where can this LRI instrument be bought?
Jean-Paul Roy
just received the wing kit
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "ron dewees" <rdewees@mindspring.com>
Sent: Monday, June 05, 2006 10:26 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Low speed takeoffs and stall Airpseed. LRI
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: ron dewees <rdewees@mindspring.com>
>
> Hi Paul and Gary,
> I can't speak to the 701 installation of a LRI but have had a LRI in
my
> 601HDS for almost a year and a half. I posted pictures of the probe
and
> indicator on Scott Laughlin's website and would not fly without it.
My
> field is short and rough and I found that my landings were
unnecessarily
> long and fast. Using the LRI I have shortened the takeoff and landing
> distance and cut down considerably on wear and tear on the plane and
my
> nerves. I highly reccomend one.
> As far as being too busy to look at one while close to the ground
I
> found that it's THE most important instrument to look at close to the
> ground. I mounted mine above the instrument panel so it's in my line
of
> sight as I look out the canopy. A few ex-military pilots recognize it
> but almost all GA pilots are clueless as to it's function untill they
> see it in action. Total cost was less than $80 or so. Only downside
is
> that the Dwyer differential pressure gauge used on mine as in
indicator
> is an odd size-- I guess 3 or 3 1/2 inches so it's hard to put in line
> with other instruments. I have seen expensive and complex digital
> models that illiminate sequential red or green LEDs but I like the
> analog needle that gives immediate feedback on wing's lift. I
installed
> it to let me know when the wing was about to stall so I could land
> slower but found that it's just as handy to lift off short in ground
> effect and watch the lift available rise to a safe level before
rotating
> and climbing out Works just as well to give warning of an impending
> departure stall or if you do a high speed turn or chandelle it lets
you
> know what the state of lift remaining is.
> If you ever fly with one you won't be without one. Just don't stick
it
> in a corner where you can't see it easily.
>
> Ron
>
> Gary Gower wrote:
>
> > Hello Paul,
> >
> > I have mine installed in the 701, Is a diferent type of airplane
> > that the 601, because the 701 has two diferent angle of attack in
the
> > wing.
> >
> > I am now building a 601 XL that will also have an LRI installed,
> > but I am very far from the kit looking as an airplane...
> >
> > Hope this helps. Because I am sure that the XL can make impressive
> > short field landings in grass strips if flow correctly... Time will
> > say (in my case).
> >
> > Saludos
> > Gary Gower.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
--
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Cordless drill outcome |
Bill
I agree, times have changed, making it even harder to make a decision as to
what is the best value at any given time. To paraphrase Paul Harvey, "All that
we call progress, ain't."
Carroll
do not archive
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Stabilizer Tips |
Tim-
I think we all experienced that problem. On mine I got as close as
possible, filled with Poly-Fibre Superfil and then sanded to a "pleasing contour."
Not flying yet but it sure looks good.
Carroll
do not archive
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Low speed takeoffs and stall Airpseed. LRI |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jean-Paul Roy" <jean-paul.roy4@tlb.sympatico.ca>
Thank you kindly Paul
Jean-Paul Roy
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Mulwitz" <p.mulwitz@worldnet.att.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2006 7:12 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Low speed takeoffs and stall Airpseed. LRI
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Paul Mulwitz
<p.mulwitz@worldnet.att.net>
>
> At 03:11 AM 6/6/2006, you wrote:
> >Hello all. Just one question. Where can this LRI instrument be bought?
>
> --
> I built mine from plans available on the net. However, you can also
> buy them as complete systems. One source I found from a google search:
> http://www.liftreserve.com/Faqinst.htm
>
> Paul
> XL wings
> do not archive
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Stabilizer Tips |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: N5SL <nfivesl@yahoo.com>
Tim:
This is probably not the answer you want to hear, but
if you want them to fit perfect, just make a new set
like I did here:
http://www.cooknwithgas.com/StabTips.html
For a perfect fit you would have to do like I did and
make a pattern from the exact shape of your
stabilizer. Since mine was scratch-built, it is
probably a little different from any other stabilizer.
Search the archives and you will find some tricks to
make those things fit. Several guys have done so
successfully.
Scott Laughlin
www.cooknwithgas.com
--- Tim Juhl <juhl@avci.net> wrote:
> I'm sure this subject has come up before, but humor
> me and give me the benefit of your collective
> wisdom.
>
> I'm getting ready to fit the fiberglass tips to my
> horizontal stabilizer. Looking at the tips I see a
> few problems....
> 1.) They don't fit very snugly
__________________________________________________
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Stabilizer Tips |
Carroll - where can I get the Poly-Fibre Superfil (and does anyone else
recommend a different product)? I need it for my wing tip fiberglass pieces
that suffered the same fate.
BTW, Tim, although I skipped the stab tip when I got to it, I just did my
fiberglass wing tips. The same effect is present - poor fiberglass contour
and condition. I sanded the fiberglass a bit to take out a couple large
chunks and then just pushed it in as firmly as possible. I still probably
had 2-3mm spacing at one point in the tip. In fact, I think the fiberglass
and skin both yielded a slight bit. The final effect is that everything is
nice and tight where the rivet goes, but there is still a bit of a gap on
the edge that I will have to fill.
Michael
do not archive
On 6/6/06, Trainnut01@aol.com <Trainnut01@aol.com> wrote:
>
> Tim-
> I think we all experienced that problem. On mine I got as close as
> possible, filled with Poly-Fibre Superfil and then sanded to a "pleasing
> contour." Not flying yet but it sure looks good.
> Carroll
> do not archive
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Stabilizer Tips |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: LarryMcFarland <larry@macsmachine.com>
Tim,
You can heat them up and gently reform them to get the fit you want.
Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
do not archive
Tim Juhl wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Tim Juhl" <juhl@avci.net>
>
>I'm sure this subject has come up before, but humor me and give me the benefit
of your collective wisdom.
>
>I'm getting ready to fit the fiberglass tips to my horizontal stabilizer. Looking
at the tips I see a few problems....
>1.) They don't fit very snugly within the end of the stab. When you rivet them
will the rivets pull the tip's edges up to the contour of the skins or am I
likely to get some wrinkles in the aluminum skin?
>2.) The open edges of the tips are not straight (flat). The edge line is curved
inwards towards the outside center of the tip. Should I sand or dress the
edges until straight?
>3.) There are some chips in the fiberglass coating around the edges. Any recommendation
as to what I should use to fill and smooth these areas?
>
>Thanks!
>
>Tim
>
>--------
>CFII
>Champ L16A flying
>Zodiac XL - Horiz. Stab. & Elev.
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=38844#38844
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 11
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|
I recently bought a rolling flanging tool from my good friend, Bill Naumuk,
that worked great to make a good fit between fiberglass parts and metal
edges that don't quite fit.
Gary Boothe
Cool, CA
601 HDSTD, WW Conversion
Tail done, working on wings....
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Stabilizer Tips
Carroll - where can I get the Poly-Fibre Superfil (and does anyone else
recommend a different product)? I need it for my wing tip fiberglass pieces
that suffered the same fate.
BTW, Tim, although I skipped the stab tip when I got to it, I just did my
fiberglass wing tips. The same effect is present - poor fiberglass contour
and condition. I sanded the fiberglass a bit to take out a couple large
chunks and then just pushed it in as firmly as possible. I still probably
had 2-3mm spacing at one point in the tip. In fact, I think the fiberglass
and skin both yielded a slight bit. The final effect is that everything is
nice and tight where the rivet goes, but there is still a bit of a gap on
the edge that I will have to fill.
Michael
On 6/6/06, Trainnut01@aol.com <Trainnut01@aol.com> wrote:
Tim-
I think we all experienced that problem. On mine I got as close as
possible, filled with Poly-Fibre Superfil and then sanded to a "pleasing
contour." Not flying yet but it sure looks good.
Carroll
do not archive
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Low speed takeoffs and stall Airpseed. LRI |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Gig Giacona" <wr.giacona@cox.net>
I'm a little curious. You've got a Dynon unit right? Is there a reason other than
redundancy that you aren't just using the AOA that is part of the unit?
p.mulwitz(at)worldnet.att wrote:
> Hi Gary,
>
> Thank you for the article link on flying the LRI.? I enjoyed reading it and
got my ideas about it reinforced.? It sounds to me like a much better instrument
to use for critical airspeed control than the airspeed indicator.? Of course
you can still use the nose "Picture" on the horizon to control your speed as
well, but the LRI sounds like a nice precise way to get nearly maximum performance
from your plane on both takeoff and landing.
>
> I understand your comment about not wanting to take your eyes off the runway
on landing approach to check the LRI.? There may be several ways to deal with
this problem.? Let me suggest a few:
>
> 1.? You can set up your approach at the desired LRI indication.? Then look at
the pitch on the nose of your plane and hold the same pitch while using the
same power/airspeed and flap setting.? This should hold the same LRI indication.
>
> 2.? I have seen many AOA indicators - particularly the kind with colored lights
- mounted above the instrument panel so the indication is easy to see while
looking out the windshield.? You could mount your LRI indicator either on top
of the panel or at the top-most position in the center of your viewing image.?
This would make it very easy to find the indicator at the critical moments.
>
> 3.? If you have already mounted your indicator at a remote location in your
instrument panel, you might be able to make an optical path to make it visible
from above the panel.? This might be similar to the mirrors used in a "Periscope".?
Place one rectangular or oval mirror below the gauge and mount another
one above the panel in line with the other mirror.? Then you should be able to
see the instrument face while looking out the windshield.
>
> In any case, I am happy I decided to install one of these instruments in my
XL.? I think I will put it on the topmost row of instruments - perhaps right next
to the EFIS.
>
> Thanks again,
>
> Paul
> XL wings (nearly done)
>
>
> At 05:13 PM 6/5/2006, you wrote:
>
> > Hello Paul,
> > ?
> > We use our LRI calibrated at normal approach angle of attack for two reasons:?
> > ?
> > First We fly at diferent altitudes here and diferent sizes of landing strips,
so a slow aproach without loosing glide angle/speed? is important.
> > ?
> > And second the STOL? flair/approach in the 701 is so slow and close to the
ground that sincerely,? there is no time to glance at the LRI.? We just keep
the eyes on the strip trough the side of the windshield that instant before touch
down...
> > ?
> > I am now building a 601? XL? that will also have an LRI installed,?? but I
am very far from the kit looking as an airplane...
> > ?
> > Here is one good article that explains how the LRI works in a "normal" type
of wing.? (If there is something close to "normal wing" in modern homebuilt
airplanes :-)?
> > ?
> > http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/liftreserve-pg2.htm (http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/liftreserve-pg2.htm)
> > ?
> > Hope this helps.? Because I am sure that the XL can make impressive short
field landings in grass strips if flow correctly...? Time will say (in my case).
> > ?
> > Saludos
> > Gary Gower.
> >
> >
>
--------
W.R. "Gig" Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=38934#38934
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Stabilizer Tips |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Randy Bryant" <randy@shadycreekoutlaws.com>
Yes, this is what I did... Using a heat gun, I heated mine until I just
started "smelling" the fiberglass smell from it... At that point it formed
very easily... My tips fit very nicely...after some persuasion...
Randy
XL Wings - Plans Only
http://www.n344rb.com
Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "LarryMcFarland" <larry@macsmachine.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2006 9:34 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Stabilizer Tips
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: LarryMcFarland <larry@macsmachine.com>
>
> Tim,
> You can heat them up and gently reform them to get the fit you want.
>
> Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
> do not archive
>
> Tim Juhl wrote:
>
>>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Tim Juhl" <juhl@avci.net>
>>
>>I'm sure this subject has come up before, but humor me and give me the
>>benefit of your collective wisdom.
>>
>>I'm getting ready to fit the fiberglass tips to my horizontal stabilizer.
>>Looking at the tips I see a few problems....
>>1.) They don't fit very snugly within the end of the stab. When you rivet
>>them will the rivets pull the tip's edges up to the contour of the skins
>>or am I likely to get some wrinkles in the aluminum skin?
>>2.) The open edges of the tips are not straight (flat). The edge line is
>>curved inwards towards the outside center of the tip. Should I sand or
>>dress the edges until straight?
>>3.) There are some chips in the fiberglass coating around the edges. Any
>>recommendation as to what I should use to fill and smooth these areas?
>>
>>Thanks!
>>
>>Tim
>>
>>--------
>>CFII
>>Champ L16A flying
>>Zodiac XL - Horiz. Stab. & Elev.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>Read this topic online here:
>>
>>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=38844#38844
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List
> http://wiki.matronics.com
>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Stabilizer Tips |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Richard Vetterli <richvetterli@yahoo.com>
Tim,
I used a heat gun to soften the fibreglass and coax
the tips into shape. Try to make the tips fit the
stab, not the other way around.
Rich Vetterli
XL/Corvair
Tail complete, working on wings
www.geocities.com/stixx5a
__________________________________________________
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Low speed takeoffs and stall Airpseed. LRI |
Ron, good to hear from you. I just pulled my DG, vac and all that plumbing
from the plane so I have an empty hole in the dash (EHITD) I could fill with an
LRI. What kind do you have and how difficult is it to install ? I remember you
talking about it when we were flying, but my attention was on your 3300 so I
missed some of it. I really don't want to have to take a wing off to install
something. Best regards, Bill
do not archive
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Stabilizer Tips |
Michael
I got the Superfil From ACS. It was left over from my RV. (Its also great
for hiding rivet gun smiley's.)
Carroll
do not archive
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Octain Rating is not energy content in auto fuel - Its |
BTU (...
FYI there is a flying team, 4 or 5 aircraft, all RVs that fly out of Tea,
South Dakota which is just south of Sioux Falls. This team is sponsored by the
Ethanol lobby and they are using E85. I do not know what engines they are
using or what modifications were required. I have not talked to any of the
pilots, but have heard from others at the airport that the engines are "tricky"
to
start.
C. L.
601XL 20%
"Do not archive"
Message 18
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SMILEYS?....Not on My RV project, no sir....At least none that you can
see...;)
Do not archive
Frank
601 HDS 400 hours
RV7a..Painting....HF HVLP spray guns are excellent!
________________________________
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Trainnut01@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2006 7:56 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Stabilizer Tips
Michael
I got the Superfil From ACS. It was left over from my RV. (Its also
great for hiding rivet gun smiley's.)
Carroll
do not archive
Message 19
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| Subject: | Octain Rating is not energy content in auto fuel - Its |
BTU (...
Yes they will be, at least when trying tostart a hot engine. this is
because they have 1/8th Stainless injector lines that sit on top of the
engine. As the only restriction is the injector restrictors (which is
basically an open pipe onto the back of the inlet valve), when the
engine stops the injector line fuel boils off and you have to wait till
the mechanical pump refills the pretty long lines...Hence the cranking
and cranking.
With my Lycoming I have electric pumps only so I'm hoping a lot of this
issue will not happen with my setup.
The E85 engines MAY have larger nozzles to get more fuel in there. As
the mixture is set by the pilot this is no big deal.
Make me less worried about finding alcohol in my Lycoming though.
Frank
Do not archive
________________________________
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Clmelenyzeriv@cs.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2006 8:04 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Octain Rating is not energy content in auto
fuel - Its BTU (...
FYI there is a flying team, 4 or 5 aircraft, all RVs that fly out of
Tea, South Dakota which is just south of Sioux Falls. This team is
sponsored by the Ethanol lobby and they are using E85. I do not know
what engines they are using or what modifications were required. I have
not talked to any of the pilots, but have heard from others at the
airport that the engines are "tricky" to start.
C. L.
601XL 20%
"Do not archive"
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Low speed takeoffs and stall Airpseed. LRI |
Hi Bill,
I read your post about the device you made to get under the panel.
That's a great accomplishment. I couldn't find a shoe horn that large
so I just squirm in. I've spent way too much fun on my back with my
feet over my head and it wasnt' even an indecent situation!
I don't remember the source of the plans for my LRI except that I got
them from Scott Laughlin. I will send him an email and ask him to post
the link. He was turning out the probe ends and mentioned that he was
set up to do others so I bought one from him for $40. I think I could
make one now tho. It's made from alumimum bar stock 1/2 X 1 1/2 inches
and about 10 inches long. THere are two holes drilled lengthwise almost
all the way thru the bar but edgewise holes from the front are drilled
to meet the long holes. Much like a second pito-static system. The
probe was mounted to a wing rib that forms the inside corner of a
baggage locker. I routed the small plastic tubeing inside the
lightening holes of the ribs and up the inside of the fuselage. There
isn't any electicity involved unless you want to put a POST light on the
gauge. I'll look for pix too.
Ron
JAPhillipsGA@aol.com wrote:
> Ron, good to hear from you. I just pulled my DG, vac and all that
> plumbing from the plane so I have an empty hole in the dash (EHITD) I
> could fill with an LRI. What kind do you have and how difficult is it
> to install ? I remember you talking about it when we were flying, but
> my attention was on your 3300 so I missed some of it. I really don't
> want to have to take a wing off to install something. Best regards, Bill
> do not archive
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Low speed takeoffs and stall Airpseed. LRI |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Paul Mulwitz <p.mulwitz@worldnet.att.net>
Hi Gig,
I don't have a Dynon unit yet. I may choose one, but I am also
seriously considering a Blue Mountain unit.
I built my LRI as a time filler while I was waiting 3 months for my
wing kit. I am glad to learn it is a great instrument. It also has
the quality that it doesn't require power and is unlikely to
fail. That means it could be considered a backup for an EFIS except
for the fact it doesn't really help with anything except takeoff and landing.
As a practical matter, I am planning on only VFR flight. That means
I don't really need any instruments at all. I would like to get an
instrument rating and fly my XL that way, but I can't do that until
the FAA decides the third class medical is no longer needed. I know
they are considering that move, but they want to see how well using a
driver's license as medical qualification works under the Sport Pilot rule.
I think the AOA/LRI indicator should be separate from the EFIS
anyway. It should be very easy to spot at the critical moments
during takeoff and landing approach when it is most useful. I am
afraid the one built into the Dynon unit will be too hard to spot to
be really useful at that point.
If it sounds like I am a little confused on this whole subject then I
have done a really good job of writing about it.
Paul
XL wings
do not archive
At 06:41 AM 6/6/2006, you wrote:
>I'm a little curious. You've got a Dynon unit right? Is there a
>reason other than redundancy that you aren't just using the AOA that
>is part of the unit?
>
----
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Cordless drill outcome |
Cc: Bryan Martin <bryanmmartin@comcast.net>
--> Zenith-List message posted by: <dredmoody@cox.net>
Based on how well my junky "new" Dewalt drills etc. are working for me, I really
regret missing out on the vastly better "old" ones. The one exception is the
quick change blade holder on the saber saw. It is truly a piece of crap. Otherwise
I have had excellent performance from my Dewalt products.
Ed Moody II
Rayne, LA
601XL / wings
Do Not Archive
---- Bryan Martin <bryanmmartin@comcast.net> wrote:
> A ten year old DeWalt is probably not the same as a new one. The
> design was changed several years ago and tne newer ones aren't as
> good. DeWalt is now a division of Black and Decker, which is a
> division of GE and some of the worst junk in the history of
> electricity have come from GE.
>
> RCA used to be one of the better electronics firms until they were
> bought out by GE and now they make nothing but junk.
Message 23
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|
The latest issue of Zenair news (#154 - pg 8) references stabilizer plates.
Bob Jones, of Big Lake, Alaska swears by them. I'm wondering what the list
thinks of his innovation...
Todd Henning
_____
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hinde, Frank
George (Corvallis)
Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2006 10:18 AM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Stabilizer Tips
SMILEYS?....Not on My RV project, no sir....At least none that you can
see...;)
Do not archive
Frank
601 HDS 400 hours
RV7a..Painting....HF HVLP spray guns are excellent!
_____
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Trainnut01@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2006 7:56 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Stabilizer Tips
Michael
I got the Superfil From ACS. It was left over from my RV. (Its also great
for hiding rivet gun smiley's.)
Carroll
do not archive
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Low speed takeoffs and stall Airpseed. LRI |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Paul Mulwitz <p.mulwitz@worldnet.att.net>
>The probe was mounted to a wing rib that forms the inside corner of
>a baggage locker.
-
I decided to mount the LRI probe and pitot/static probes on oval
metal plates similar to the one used to access the fuel
strainer. That allows me to remove them while moving the wing around
in my shop so they don't get broken off.
Paul
XL wings
Message 25
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: Zed Smith <zsmith3rd@earthlink.net>
List,
For those already flying a 701......just how slowly will it fly? Particulars?
Thanks,
Zed/701/R912/90+%/do not archive/etc
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Low speed takeoffs and stall Airpseed. |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Gary Liming <gary@liming.org>
Hi Folks,
My original post on this thread was that I was interested in hearing
what people's experience has been with airspeed indicators. I use an
LRI and think they're great. However, I was hoping to hear from
those who've happened to notice at what minimum speed their airspeed
indicators started indicating.
I already have lots of catalogs, and have looked at what's in them,
including ones that cater to ultralights. As you all know, none of
them indicate when the instrument starts working. Digital ones, like
the Dynon D10, are capable of indicating 5, 6, 12, 15, etc. MPH but
they can't because they don't start until about 35-40 or so.
(One guy asked why I didn't use the AOA on the D10A - it was because
that wasn't available at the time I purchased it.)
If I had it to do over again, I would have gone with a digital
version of the same LRI for one reason - I really wanted a stall
warning signal in my ears. The analog LRIs don't warn, they just
indicate and require that you be looking at them.
So, how many of you flying have watch the airspeed indicator on
takeoff to see when it "comes up?"
Gary Liming
Message 27
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|
I am painting my RV7 project right now. I have never done anything but
rattle can jobs before. I got some advice, some Valspar Polyurathane and
this is the advice I can provide below.
I am just amazed how well my parts are turning out.
Frank
602 HDS for sale
RV7a painting
>From one rookie painter to another...it is a lot easier than I thought
it would be.
Buy two 20 ounce HF guns...1) gravity feed gun (it is NOT an HVLP gun
and is sometimes on sale for $15...Piece of crap but works great for
primer. Under no circumstances use this for top coat.
2) HVLP HF gun (looks the same but it is a true HVLP and is sometimes on
sale for $40).
If it was on sale I would also buy the touch up gun regular prce around
$60...So sweet for little jobs. Right now I still have my friend's touch
up gun.
Its hard to describe the difference between these guns until you use
each one...Needless to say the primer gun will absolutly ruin your paint
job if you use it for top coat. You will spend close to $1000 on
paint...Needless to say the guns are dirt cheap in comparison.
Primer...piece of cake.
Top coat...Thin the paint a little more than it says on the can. Buy a
pint of cheap (er) white paint...Tell the guy you want to practice.
Put 50psi on the gun while the trigger is pulled...i.e the running
pressure, even thoguh HF say use like 28psi...You'll thank me later!
Setup the gun to make the classic cigar shape...you point the gun at the
wall and and pull and let go of the trigger without moviing the
gun...You should get the classic ciger shape...You can adjust the width
of the fan and how much paint is sprayed. The site www.hotrodders.com
<outbind://81/www.hotrodders.com> will show you the correct pattern.
Hold the gun pfectly perpenduclar to the surface...never swing the gun.
Start with the paint spraying before you get to the panel...and keeep
the gun at 6 to 8" from the surface. The speed of travel will be
surprisingly slow.
Now to practice, get an old metal shelf, propane cylinder, neighbour's
car...anything you don't care about and can prop up vertically.
Here's the deal...If you travel the gun too fast you will get a dry
spray that will sit on the surface, i.e it won't flow...This is called
orange peel.
If you go too slow it will run...Actually its hard to make it run
unless....You can't see it porperly..This is where you need a LOT of
light at an angle to the surface...best light is outside but you need to
make a tent with a filtered supply and extract system....If its not a
windy day I guess you could build one outside with clear visqueen...Good
luck!
I got runs on my wheelpants in a couple of places because at the last
minute I moved the fuse out of the shop and the remaining area (where I
painted the pants) was dimly lit....Home Depot and Shop lights! Are two
terms that should be used in the same sentence!...Have one overhead and
one screwed to the wall to shine at the same horizontal surface.
Avoid the temptation to try to "dust in the paint"...it won't work. It
has to be put on as a full wet coat...You probably have half a minute
where you could add to the run where maybe it got a bit thin but nore
longer as it will sit on top of the old paint. This is why doing very
deliberate runs with proper overlap on a large surface is paramount to
avoid orangepeel.
Always rig your control surfaces horizontally...This is an absolute pain
in the a..! It took me about 3 hours to rig the flaps, ailerons,
elevators and empanage this way...And you want to be able to flip them
over and both sides at the same time..."Why?" you ask?...Remember how
the paint won't flow together unless its wet?...thats why both sides
need to be wet or you will get a seam where the two paint sessions join
together....Remember you can't touch the surface when its painted...:).
Put one coat on the top surface, flip over botoom surface and flip back
to the top for the second coat...Should leave about 10 minutes for the
second coat...So might want to do two elavators...I.e one coat on each
and then your 10 mins will be up....Flip so that bottom side is UP...You
will get some dust, best to be where no one will see it.
The obvious question is...well I have to paint the fuse vertically so
why go to the trouble of rigging the control surfaces as above...good
point and it comes down to risk...I.e it is impossible to get a run on a
horizontal surface (except at the edges). If you get a run you
can(apparently...i did it once) have a paper towel and laquer thinner
and real wet slop the run off and repaint.
Little scary but it did work when I tried it...Otherwise you got to wait
till it dries and wet sand it out and polish. Remember you can't dust in
a little paint and the hard paint is like bomb proof!...A hell of a lot
of work to sand and buff runs out!...So the work of rigging horizontally
is worth it to reduce the risk of runs.
When painting vertically spray a tack coat and wait 10 minutes....just a
light skim...move gun fast. This will enable the wet coat to stick much
better...When you practice on the propane tank don't apply a tack coat
and see how hard it is to make it run.
Runs really only happen when you put multiple wet coats on...like on a
wheel pant facing nose down...it tapers going to the top...So, if you
can't see well, you do it in vertical stripes...but it gets narrower
going towards the top so guess what happens, you keep going over and
over the narrow part...DOH!
Anyway, there it is FWIW.
Compressor...Mine is oil free...You will get fish eyes if there is ANY
oil in your air supply...Speaking of which I made my own fresh air
breathing system....put these terms together...Respirator (WITH
pesticide filter, which is organic vapour and particulate), OIL
FREE!!!!!!!! air compressor,...Tee in a air hose...Works great and saves
$400 for a Hobby air.
Sounds like a lot to take in but I picked it up pretty quickly with no
one looking over my shoulder.
Frank
________________________________
Message 28
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|
--> Zenith-List message posted by: LarryMcFarland <larry@macsmachine.com>
Good going Frank,
You've saved yourself a bundle doing your own paint. It does take some
planning, but it's definitely a job that's worth learning.
Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
do not archive
Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis) wrote:
> I am painting my RV7 project right now. I have never done anything
> but rattle can jobs before. I got some advice, some Valspar
> Polyurathane and this is the advice I can provide below.
>
> I am just amazed how well my parts are turning out.
>
> Frank
> 602 HDS for sale
> RV7a painting
>
>
>
> From one rookie painter to another...it is a lot easier than I thought
> it would be.
>
> Buy two 20 ounce HF guns...1) gravity feed gun (it is NOT an HVLP gun
> and is sometimes on sale for $15...Piece of crap but works great for
> primer. Under no circumstances use this for top coat.
>
> 2) HVLP HF gun (looks the same but it is a true HVLP and is sometimes
> on sale for $40).
>
> If it was on sale I would also buy the touch up gun regular prce
> around $60...So sweet for little jobs. Right now I still have my
> friend's touch up gun.
>
> Its hard to describe the difference between these guns until you use
> each one...Needless to say the primer gun will absolutly ruin your
> paint job if you use it for top coat. You will spend close to $1000 on
> paint...Needless to say the guns are dirt cheap in comparison.
>
> Primer...piece of cake.
>
> Top coat...Thin the paint a little more than it says on the can. Buy a
> pint of cheap (er) white paint...Tell the guy you want to practice.
>
> Put 50psi on the gun while the trigger is pulled...i.e the running
> pressure, even thoguh HF say use like 28psi...You'll thank me later!
>
> Setup the gun to make the classic cigar shape...you point the gun at
> the wall and and pull and let go of the trigger without moviing the
> gun...You should get the classic ciger shape...You can adjust the
> width of the fan and how much paint is sprayed. The site
> _www.hotrodders.com_ <outbind://81/www.hotrodders.com> will show you
> the correct pattern.
>
> Hold the gun pfectly perpenduclar to the surface...never swing the gun.
>
> Start with the paint spraying before you get to the panel...and keeep
> the gun at 6 to 8" from the surface. The speed of travel will be
> surprisingly slow.
>
> Now to practice, get an old metal shelf, propane cylinder, neighbour's
> car...anything you don't care about and can prop up vertically.
>
> Here's the deal...If you travel the gun too fast you will get a dry
> spray that will sit on the surface, i.e it won't flow...This is called
> orange peel.
>
> If you go too slow it will run...Actually its hard to make it run
> unless....You can't see it porperly..This is where you need a LOT of
> light at an angle to the surface...best light is outside but you need
> to make a tent with a filtered supply and extract system....If its not
> a windy day I guess you could build one outside with clear
> visqueen...Good luck!
>
> I got runs on my wheelpants in a couple of places because at the last
> minute I moved the fuse out of the shop and the remaining area (where
> I painted the pants) was dimly lit....Home Depot and Shop lights! Are
> two terms that should be used in the same sentence!...Have one
> overhead and one screwed to the wall to shine at the same horizontal
> surface.
>
> Avoid the temptation to try to "dust in the paint"...it won't work. It
> has to be put on as a full wet coat...You probably have half a minute
> where you could add to the run where maybe it got a bit thin but nore
> longer as it will sit on top of the old paint. This is why doing very
> deliberate runs with proper overlap on a large surface is paramount to
> avoid orangepeel.
>
> Always rig your control surfaces horizontally...This is an absolute
> pain in the a..! It took me about 3 hours to rig the flaps, ailerons,
> elevators and empanage this way...And you want to be able to flip them
> over and both sides at the same time..."Why?" you ask?...Remember how
> the paint won't flow together unless its wet?...thats why both sides
> need to be wet or you will get a seam where the two paint sessions
> join together....Remember you can't touch the surface when its
> painted...:).
>
> Put one coat on the top surface, flip over botoom surface and flip
> back to the top for the second coat...Should leave about 10 minutes
> for the second coat...So might want to do two elavators...I.e one coat
> on each and then your 10 mins will be up....Flip so that bottom side
> is UP...You will get some dust, best to be where no one will see it.
>
> The obvious question is...well I have to paint the fuse vertically so
> why go to the trouble of rigging the control surfaces as above...good
> point and it comes down to risk...I.e it is impossible to get a run on
> a horizontal surface (except at the edges). If you get a run you
> can(apparently...i did it once) have a paper towel and laquer thinner
> and real wet slop the run off and repaint.
>
> Little scary but it did work when I tried it...Otherwise you got to
> wait till it dries and wet sand it out and polish. Remember you can't
> dust in a little paint and the hard paint is like bomb proof!...A hell
> of a lot of work to sand and buff runs out!...So the work of rigging
> horizontally is worth it to reduce the risk of runs.
>
> When painting vertically spray a tack coat and wait 10 minutes....just
> a light skim...move gun fast. This will enable the wet coat to stick
> much better...When you practice on the propane tank don't apply a tack
> coat and see how hard it is to make it run.
>
> Runs really only happen when you put multiple wet coats on...like on a
> wheel pant facing nose down...it tapers going to the top...So, if you
> can't see well, you do it in vertical stripes...but it gets narrower
> going towards the top so guess what happens, you keep going over and
> over the narrow part...DOH!
>
> Anyway, there it is FWIW.
>
> Compressor...Mine is oil free...You will get fish eyes if there is ANY
> oil in your air supply...Speaking of which I made my own fresh air
> breathing system....put these terms together...Respirator (WITH
> pesticide filter, which is organic vapour and particulate), OIL
> FREE!!!!!!!! air compressor,...Tee in a air hose...Works great and
> saves $400 for a Hobby air.
>
> Sounds like a lot to take in but I picked it up pretty quickly with no
> one looking over my shoulder.
>
> Frank
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Painting Tips |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: N5SL <nfivesl@yahoo.com>
Thank you Frank!
I've painted three cars in my life and can relate to
all of your comments but it's been a while. Your text
was a great refresher course for me as I will be
painting soon also.
Much appreciated,
Scott Laughlin
www.cooknwithgas.com
Building Canopy Frame
--- "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)"
<frank.hinde@hp.com> wrote:
I got some advice, some
> Valspar Polyurathane and
> this is the advice I can provide below.
>
> I am just amazed how well my parts are turning out.
>
> Frank
> 602 HDS for sale
> RV7a painting
__________________________________________________
Message 30
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Thanks Larry I thought it would be like my first welds...I.e an
unmitigated disaster and waste $1000 in paint, but its awesome to see
the fine result.
I'll attach a pic, don't know if it will work but lets see.
Frank
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
LarryMcFarland
Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2006 2:05 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Painting
--> Zenith-List message posted by: LarryMcFarland
--> <larry@macsmachine.com>
Good going Frank,
You've saved yourself a bundle doing your own paint. It does take some
planning, but it's definitely a job that's worth learning.
Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com do not archive
Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis) wrote:
> I am painting my RV7 project right now. I have never done anything
> but rattle can jobs before. I got some advice, some Valspar
> Polyurathane and this is the advice I can provide below.
>
> I am just amazed how well my parts are turning out.
>
> Frank
> 602 HDS for sale
> RV7a painting
>
>
>
> From one rookie painter to another...it is a lot easier than I thought
> it would be.
>
> Buy two 20 ounce HF guns...1) gravity feed gun (it is NOT an HVLP gun
> and is sometimes on sale for $15...Piece of crap but works great for
> primer. Under no circumstances use this for top coat.
>
> 2) HVLP HF gun (looks the same but it is a true HVLP and is sometimes
> on sale for $40).
>
> If it was on sale I would also buy the touch up gun regular prce
> around $60...So sweet for little jobs. Right now I still have my
> friend's touch up gun.
>
> Its hard to describe the difference between these guns until you use
> each one...Needless to say the primer gun will absolutly ruin your
> paint job if you use it for top coat. You will spend close to $1000 on
> paint...Needless to say the guns are dirt cheap in comparison.
>
> Primer...piece of cake.
>
> Top coat...Thin the paint a little more than it says on the can. Buy a
> pint of cheap (er) white paint...Tell the guy you want to practice.
>
> Put 50psi on the gun while the trigger is pulled...i.e the running
> pressure, even thoguh HF say use like 28psi...You'll thank me later!
>
> Setup the gun to make the classic cigar shape...you point the gun at
> the wall and and pull and let go of the trigger without moviing the
> gun...You should get the classic ciger shape...You can adjust the
> width of the fan and how much paint is sprayed. The site
> _www.hotrodders.com_ <outbind://81/www.hotrodders.com> will show you
> the correct pattern.
>
> Hold the gun pfectly perpenduclar to the surface...never swing the
gun.
>
> Start with the paint spraying before you get to the panel...and keeep
> the gun at 6 to 8" from the surface. The speed of travel will be
> surprisingly slow.
>
> Now to practice, get an old metal shelf, propane cylinder, neighbour's
> car...anything you don't care about and can prop up vertically.
>
> Here's the deal...If you travel the gun too fast you will get a dry
> spray that will sit on the surface, i.e it won't flow...This is called
> orange peel.
>
> If you go too slow it will run...Actually its hard to make it run
> unless....You can't see it porperly..This is where you need a LOT of
> light at an angle to the surface...best light is outside but you need
> to make a tent with a filtered supply and extract system....If its not
> a windy day I guess you could build one outside with clear
> visqueen...Good luck!
>
> I got runs on my wheelpants in a couple of places because at the last
> minute I moved the fuse out of the shop and the remaining area (where
> I painted the pants) was dimly lit....Home Depot and Shop lights! Are
> two terms that should be used in the same sentence!...Have one
> overhead and one screwed to the wall to shine at the same horizontal
> surface.
>
> Avoid the temptation to try to "dust in the paint"...it won't work. It
> has to be put on as a full wet coat...You probably have half a minute
> where you could add to the run where maybe it got a bit thin but nore
> longer as it will sit on top of the old paint. This is why doing very
> deliberate runs with proper overlap on a large surface is paramount to
> avoid orangepeel.
>
> Always rig your control surfaces horizontally...This is an absolute
> pain in the a..! It took me about 3 hours to rig the flaps, ailerons,
> elevators and empanage this way...And you want to be able to flip them
> over and both sides at the same time..."Why?" you ask?...Remember how
> the paint won't flow together unless its wet?...thats why both sides
> need to be wet or you will get a seam where the two paint sessions
> join together....Remember you can't touch the surface when its
> painted...:).
>
> Put one coat on the top surface, flip over botoom surface and flip
> back to the top for the second coat...Should leave about 10 minutes
> for the second coat...So might want to do two elavators...I.e one coat
> on each and then your 10 mins will be up....Flip so that bottom side
> is UP...You will get some dust, best to be where no one will see it.
>
> The obvious question is...well I have to paint the fuse vertically so
> why go to the trouble of rigging the control surfaces as above...good
> point and it comes down to risk...I.e it is impossible to get a run on
> a horizontal surface (except at the edges). If you get a run you
> can(apparently...i did it once) have a paper towel and laquer thinner
> and real wet slop the run off and repaint.
>
> Little scary but it did work when I tried it...Otherwise you got to
> wait till it dries and wet sand it out and polish. Remember you can't
> dust in a little paint and the hard paint is like bomb proof!...A hell
> of a lot of work to sand and buff runs out!...So the work of rigging
> horizontally is worth it to reduce the risk of runs.
>
> When painting vertically spray a tack coat and wait 10 minutes....just
> a light skim...move gun fast. This will enable the wet coat to stick
> much better...When you practice on the propane tank don't apply a tack
> coat and see how hard it is to make it run.
>
> Runs really only happen when you put multiple wet coats on...like on a
> wheel pant facing nose down...it tapers going to the top...So, if you
> can't see well, you do it in vertical stripes...but it gets narrower
> going towards the top so guess what happens, you keep going over and
> over the narrow part...DOH!
>
> Anyway, there it is FWIW.
>
> Compressor...Mine is oil free...You will get fish eyes if there is ANY
> oil in your air supply...Speaking of which I made my own fresh air
> breathing system....put these terms together...Respirator (WITH
> pesticide filter, which is organic vapour and particulate), OIL
> FREE!!!!!!!! air compressor,...Tee in a air hose...Works great and
> saves $400 for a Hobby air.
>
> Sounds like a lot to take in but I picked it up pretty quickly with no
> one looking over my shoulder.
>
> Frank
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> --
=========================
==========
=========================
==========
=========================
==========
=========================
==========
Message 31
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Excellent journal, George. Going into my "Keepers" file.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2006 3:53 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Painting
I am painting my RV7 project right now. I have never done anything
but rattle can jobs before. I got some advice, some Valspar Polyurathane
and this is the advice I can provide below.
I am just amazed how well my parts are turning out.
Frank
602 HDS for sale
RV7a painting
From one rookie painter to another...it is a lot easier than I thought
it would be.
Buy two 20 ounce HF guns...1) gravity feed gun (it is NOT an HVLP gun
and is sometimes on sale for $15...Piece of crap but works great for
primer. Under no circumstances use this for top coat.
2) HVLP HF gun (looks the same but it is a true HVLP and is sometimes
on sale for $40).
If it was on sale I would also buy the touch up gun regular prce
around $60...So sweet for little jobs. Right now I still have my
friend's touch up gun.
Its hard to describe the difference between these guns until you use
each one...Needless to say the primer gun will absolutly ruin your paint
job if you use it for top coat. You will spend close to $1000 on
paint...Needless to say the guns are dirt cheap in comparison.
Primer...piece of cake.
Top coat...Thin the paint a little more than it says on the can. Buy a
pint of cheap (er) white paint...Tell the guy you want to practice.
Put 50psi on the gun while the trigger is pulled...i.e the running
pressure, even thoguh HF say use like 28psi...You'll thank me later!
Setup the gun to make the classic cigar shape...you point the gun at
the wall and and pull and let go of the trigger without moviing the
gun...You should get the classic ciger shape...You can adjust the width
of the fan and how much paint is sprayed. The site www.hotrodders.com
will show you the correct pattern.
Hold the gun pfectly perpenduclar to the surface...never swing the
gun.
Start with the paint spraying before you get to the panel...and keeep
the gun at 6 to 8" from the surface. The speed of travel will be
surprisingly slow.
Now to practice, get an old metal shelf, propane cylinder, neighbour's
car...anything you don't care about and can prop up vertically.
Here's the deal...If you travel the gun too fast you will get a dry
spray that will sit on the surface, i.e it won't flow...This is called
orange peel.
If you go too slow it will run...Actually its hard to make it run
unless....You can't see it porperly..This is where you need a LOT of
light at an angle to the surface...best light is outside but you need to
make a tent with a filtered supply and extract system....If its not a
windy day I guess you could build one outside with clear visqueen...Good
luck!
I got runs on my wheelpants in a couple of places because at the last
minute I moved the fuse out of the shop and the remaining area (where I
painted the pants) was dimly lit....Home Depot and Shop lights! Are two
terms that should be used in the same sentence!...Have one overhead and
one screwed to the wall to shine at the same horizontal surface.
Avoid the temptation to try to "dust in the paint"...it won't work. It
has to be put on as a full wet coat...You probably have half a minute
where you could add to the run where maybe it got a bit thin but nore
longer as it will sit on top of the old paint. This is why doing very
deliberate runs with proper overlap on a large surface is paramount to
avoid orangepeel.
Always rig your control surfaces horizontally...This is an absolute
pain in the a..! It took me about 3 hours to rig the flaps, ailerons,
elevators and empanage this way...And you want to be able to flip them
over and both sides at the same time..."Why?" you ask?...Remember how
the paint won't flow together unless its wet?...thats why both sides
need to be wet or you will get a seam where the two paint sessions join
together....Remember you can't touch the surface when its painted...:).
Put one coat on the top surface, flip over botoom surface and flip
back to the top for the second coat...Should leave about 10 minutes for
the second coat...So might want to do two elavators...I.e one coat on
each and then your 10 mins will be up....Flip so that bottom side is
UP...You will get some dust, best to be where no one will see it.
The obvious question is...well I have to paint the fuse vertically so
why go to the trouble of rigging the control surfaces as above...good
point and it comes down to risk...I.e it is impossible to get a run on a
horizontal surface (except at the edges). If you get a run you
can(apparently...i did it once) have a paper towel and laquer thinner
and real wet slop the run off and repaint.
Little scary but it did work when I tried it...Otherwise you got to
wait till it dries and wet sand it out and polish. Remember you can't
dust in a little paint and the hard paint is like bomb proof!...A hell
of a lot of work to sand and buff runs out!...So the work of rigging
horizontally is worth it to reduce the risk of runs.
When painting vertically spray a tack coat and wait 10 minutes....just
a light skim...move gun fast. This will enable the wet coat to stick
much better...When you practice on the propane tank don't apply a tack
coat and see how hard it is to make it run.
Runs really only happen when you put multiple wet coats on...like on a
wheel pant facing nose down...it tapers going to the top...So, if you
can't see well, you do it in vertical stripes...but it gets narrower
going towards the top so guess what happens, you keep going over and
over the narrow part...DOH!
Anyway, there it is FWIW.
Compressor...Mine is oil free...You will get fish eyes if there is ANY
oil in your air supply...Speaking of which I made my own fresh air
breathing system....put these terms together...Respirator (WITH
pesticide filter, which is organic vapour and particulate), OIL
FREE!!!!!!!! air compressor,...Tee in a air hose...Works great and saves
$400 for a Hobby air.
Sounds like a lot to take in but I picked it up pretty quickly with no
one looking over my shoulder.
Frank
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Drills and wiring |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk@alltel.net>
Gotta love a scrap builder! Thanks.
Bill
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "jsimons2" <jsimons4@triad.rr.com>
Sent: Monday, June 05, 2006 9:16 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Drills and wiring
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "jsimons2" <jsimons4@triad.rr.com>
>
> Go with the 10 gauge wire and be safe. Most welders require a 30 amp
> circuit due to their current draw. The only time that #12 gauge wire is
> allowed to be on a circuit that is protected by more than a 20 amp breaker
> is on A/C and refridgeration equipment. It is then limited to no more than
> 25 amps minimum circuit ampacity. This is due to the high, but short
> duration, startup draw of compressors. No wire is allowed more than 80% of
> its rating for continuous load. The other receptacle circuits should be
> fine due to the fact that you will probably never use more than one piece
> of equipment at a time. All of my info comes straight from the NEC
> (National Electrical Code). My qualifications?? Senior electrical
> inspector for the city where I live and over 28 years in the business.
>
> Jerome Simons
> very near future 601 HDS scrap builder
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=38823#38823
>
>
>
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: Stabilizer Tips |
All-
Check in the archives under "Fiberglas Wing Tips" which should
contain an account of where we listers collectively came up with a way
of dealing with fiberglas parts. I had an absolute bitch of a time with
my tip ribs, but learned enough to make installing my stab ribs a
non-event. As I remember it,
1. I cut a plywood form the size of the outboard rib, plus 1/32",
and crammed it in the fiberglass tip about 1/2"in.
2. I heated the fiberlass edge using my HF heat gun and straightened
out the kinks using my "Flattening pliers".
3. After installing the tips (Just press fit, not riveted) I duct
taped them down and LIGHTLY applied heat again, pushing any bubbles
down.
A. Don't go crazy with your heat. When you start smelling
fiberglass, it's hot enough. Keep the gun moving.
B. Get whatever your're holding the fiberglass in place where
you want it, keep the heat on until you get the fiberglass smell, and
hold it down for a count of 30. Repeat as necessary.
Good to hear you're happy with the flanger, Gary. I haven't touched
my project in 3 weeks and it's driving me nuts just talking about it!
Doesn't help when I read in the paper today that my neighbor two doors
down just had a truck back up to his garage and clean out all his tools-
especially when there aren't even any nails in my garanger windows!
Chris couldn't have been home at the time of the robbery, or there'd
be a God-awful dead smell on the side of the road up a piece!
No, I don't consider myself a redneck- in fact, I have 3 college
degrees. Just don't mess with my shop!
Bill
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Gary Boothe
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2006 9:37 AM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Stabilizer Tips
I recently bought a rolling flanging tool from my good friend, Bill
Naumuk, that worked great to make a good fit between fiberglass parts
and metal edges that don't quite fit.
Message 34
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| Subject: | ASI Markings and Manual |
Does this attachment help?
Phil Maxson
601XL/Corvair
Northwest New Jersey
>From: "Jonathan Starke" <jonathan@entry.co.za>
>To: <zenith-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Zenith-List: ASI Markings and Manual
>Date: Sun, 4 Jun 2006 12:48:11 +0200
>
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jonathan Starke" <jonathan@entry.co.za>
>
>Hi All Listers,
>
>Does anyone have the standard markings (Numbers) for Zodiac XL including
>max
>flap ext speed etc. I have a new ASI and would like to mark it accurately.
>(in
>mph), white green yellow and red arcs.
>
>Second question, does anyone have a complete flight manual for the XL, with
>a
>912S installed? It would save me a lot of hassle compiling my own.
>
>Thnx all,
>Jonathan Starke
>
>
Message 35
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|
| Subject: | Re: Stabilizer Tips |
As an owner of a CH701 I would be interested in a copy of the article
from zairnews #154 page 8 Stabilizer plates could someone email me
article
----- Original Message -----
From: CH701
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 07, 2006 4:04 AM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Stabilizer Tips
The latest issue of Zenair news (#154 - pg 8) references stabilizer
plates. Bob Jones, of Big Lake, Alaska swears by them. I'm wondering
what the list thinks of his innovation...
Todd Henning
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hinde,
Frank George (Corvallis)
Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2006 10:18 AM
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Stabilizer Tips
SMILEYS?....Not on My RV project, no sir....At least none that you can
see...;)
Do not archive
Frank
601 HDS 400 hours
RV7a..Painting....HF HVLP spray guns are excellent!
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Trainnut01@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2006 7:56 AM
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Stabilizer Tips
Michael
I got the Superfil From ACS. It was left over from my RV. (Its also
great for hiding rivet gun smiley's.)
Carroll
do not archive
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: Stabilizer Tips |
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Naumuk
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2006 7:12 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Stabilizer Tips
All-
Maybe I am. While mowing the lawn, it occurred to me that all the
book learning I ever needed I learned by the 8th grade, and the rest on
the job.
If anyone knows Jeff Foxworthy, forward this-
You may be a redneck when, even though you're building an
AIRPLANE, you need a batch of conibear beaver traps on your workbench to
keep your neighbors away from your tools..........
Bill
do not archive
No, I don't consider myself a redneck- in fact, I have 3 college
degrees. Just don't mess with my shop!
Message 37
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|
| Subject: | Flanging Dies for CH601's |
OK, I tried and really couldn't find anyone with a set to loan or rent
so I purchase the plastic ones from Sonex. They measure out to 85mm and
100mm just shy of the 95 and 110 called for in the plans. They look nice
and seem well built for plastic. I will give them a shot and let you
know how they work out. For $50 it they make all the holes they are well
worth it.
David Mikesell
23597 N. Hwy 99
Acampo, CA 95220
209-609-8774
skyguynca@skyguynca.com
www.skyguynca.com
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: Stabilizer Tips |
Being a redneck has nothing to do with education... Being a redneck is
the glorious absence of sophistication.
:-)
Randy
XL Wings - Plans Only
http://www.n344rb.com
Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Naumuk
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2006 8:34 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Stabilizer Tips
No, I don't consider myself a redneck- in fact, I have 3 college
degrees. Just don't mess with my shop!
Message 39
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
HF now has the primer gun on sale (20 oz gravity feed spray gun part #
47016) for $19.99...Not bad...I'm looking out for the HVLP touch up gun
to go on sale.
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hinde,
Frank George (Corvallis)
Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2006 2:58 PM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Painting
Thanks Larry I thought it would be like my first welds...I.e an
unmitigated disaster and waste $1000 in paint, but its awesome to see
the fine result.
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: Flanging Dies for CH601's |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "jsimons2" <jsimons4@triad.rr.com>
Let me know how they work, I may be interested in getting a set when I start building
in the next couple of months.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=39099#39099
Message 41
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| Subject: | Re: Stabilizer Tips |
I be haven three of dem tings two, butt that aint gots nottin to due
whit being a redneck, ya'll. KABONG Do Not Archive
Sorry but the wife & I just got back from seeing Gretchen Wilson live in
'Vegas up close & personal and we have the signed photo with her to
prove it. My wife thinks I'm the Okie from Ohio too.
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Naumuk
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2006 5:34 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Stabilizer Tips
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Naumuk
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2006 7:12 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Stabilizer Tips
All-
Maybe I am. While mowing the lawn, it occurred to me that all
the book learning I ever needed I learned by the 8th grade, and the rest
on the job.
If anyone knows Jeff Foxworthy, forward this-
You may be a redneck when, even though you're building an
AIRPLANE, you need a batch of conibear beaver traps on your workbench to
keep your neighbors away from your tools..........
Bill
do not archive
No, I don't consider myself a redneck- in fact, I have 3 college
degrees. Just don't mess with my shop!
Message 42
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|
| Subject: | Re: Low speed takeoffs and stall Airpseed. LRI (Long post) |
Hi Paul,
There are some things I need to comment to you and the list related with my experience
with the 701 and the LRI.
My main experience in flight is more in hangglider and trikes (weight shift)
for 30 years, with ocassional time in 3 axis airplanes.
The good thing is that I am able to practice and learn a lot since we finished
the 701 because we fly almost every week end. (from 3 to 10 hrs a week) This
last weeks more in the 3 to 5 hrs a week side, because of work.
I have the LRI on top of the instrument panel, so not looking at it is more my
fault that the location of the instrument. This will be modified with practice
and confidence.
If the photo gets tthough the list you can see the LRI just behind the door frame...
Another thing I have worked out with practice, was that since several years ago,
I spend lots of time in the computer Simulator, (90% instruments and 10% outside
view in the screen).
It sure helped a lot, BUT at early stages of my training, my instructor had to
partialy cover some of the instruments in the 701 in several flights, so I could
learn to "feel" the airplane and look outside, He says that the most important
instrument in an airplane, is the windshield!
We are now working hard in my landings (and smooth in the plane :-) , he wants
them precise. including the position of the LRI needle in all the aproaches.
.
Same happened with all the flight attitudes during my training.
He is also my friend, we were class mates since college.
He once told me: There is a big diference betwen driving a car and being a limo
Chauffer. same is when flying an airplane.
Now my present training position is learning to do short landings.... Is real
fun.
So now I am no expert (Yet) He will not let me go until I am one :-) He (we)
are very persistant . One hour of class and 2 to 4 of practice myself.
Here is where the 701 and the LRI are worth. Also is where I feel "at home"
because, same as hangglidng, I like to idle the engine and glide all the way
down to flare precisly in the spot I chosed. Well, sometimes I need a little
power to correct my aproach.
Here is where I am learning about the two wing flying positions in the 701:
Glide and STOL and the importance of a good aproach angle to have a succesfull
and smooth short landing.
Saludos
Gary Gower
Flying from Chapala, Mexico.
Maybe some day I will be able to rol the 701 and fill a glass of Corona Beer
:-) at the same angle of attack of course :-) :-) :-)
Do not archive.
Paul Mulwitz <p.mulwitz@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
Hi Gary,
Thank you for the article link on flying the LRI. I enjoyed reading it and got
my ideas about it reinforced. It sounds to me like a much better instrument
to use for critical airspeed control than the airspeed indicator. Of course you
can still use the nose "Picture" on the horizon to control your speed as well,
but the LRI sounds like a nice precise way to get nearly maximum performance
from your plane on both takeoff and landing.
I understand your comment about not wanting to take your eyes off the runway on
landing approach to check the LRI. There may be several ways to deal with this
problem. Let me suggest a few:
1. You can set up your approach at the desired LRI indication. Then look at the
pitch on the nose of your plane and hold the same pitch while using the same
power/airspeed and flap setting. This should hold the same LRI indication.
2. I have seen many AOA indicators - particularly the kind with colored lights
- mounted above the instrument panel so the indication is easy to see while looking
out the windshield. You could mount your LRI indicator either on top of
the panel or at the top-most position in the center of your viewing image.
This would make it very easy to find the indicator at the critical moments.
3. If you have already mounted your indicator at a remote location in your instrument
panel, you might be able to make an optical path to make it visible from
above the panel. This might be similar to the mirrors used in a "Periscope".
Place one rectangular or oval mirror below the gauge and mount another one
above the panel in line with the other mirror. Then you should be able to see
the instrument face while looking out the windshield.
In any case, I am happy I decided to install one of these instruments in my XL.
I think I will put it on the topmost row of instruments - perhaps right next
to the EFIS.
Thanks again,
Paul
XL wings (nearly done)
At 05:13 PM 6/5/2006, you wrote:
Hello Paul,
We use our LRI calibrated at normal approach angle of attack for two reasons:
First We fly at diferent altitudes here and diferent sizes of landing strips, so
a slow aproach without loosing glide angle/speed is important.
And second the STOL flair/approach in the 701 is so slow and close to the ground
that sincerely, there is no time to glance at the LRI. We just keep the eyes
on the strip trough the side of the windshield that instant before touch down...
I am now building a 601 XL that will also have an LRI installed, but I am very
far from the kit looking as an airplane...
Here is one good article that explains how the LRI works in a "normal" type of
wing. (If there is something close to "normal wing" in modern homebuilt airplanes
:-)
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/liftreserve-pg2.htm
Hope this helps. Because I am sure that the XL can make impressive short field
landings in grass strips if flow correctly... Time will say (in my case).
Saludos
Gary Gower.
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