Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:52 AM - CH-701 and Czech Amphib floats (Cannon, Walt)
2. 04:03 AM - CH 701 and Amphib floats (Gordon)
3. 04:39 AM - Compressors one last thought (John Bolding)
4. 04:56 AM - Re: Jabiru Bing carb vs Aerocarb (Darryl Legg)
5. 05:38 AM - Re: Air Compressor Air Compressor (William Dominguez)
6. 06:09 AM - Homebuilt flanging tool (Kevin Kinney)
7. 06:20 AM - Rivet gun "bounce" (Kevin Kinney)
8. 06:40 AM - Re: CH-701 and Czech Amphib floats ()
9. 06:48 AM - Scam warning/old scam still around (Larry)
10. 07:11 AM - Bolt Torque Specs (Randy Bryant)
11. 07:30 AM - Re: CH-701 and Czech Amphib floats ()
12. 07:49 AM - Re: Question on JD Alt Regulator (Cleone Markwell)
13. 08:05 AM - Re: Bolt Torque Specs (LarryMcFarland)
14. 09:40 AM - Re: Scam warning/old scam still around (Steve)
15. 09:41 AM - Re: CH601HD/HDS Main Gear (Craig Payne)
16. 10:11 AM - Re: CH601HD/HDS Main Gear (David Mikesell)
17. 10:37 AM - Re: CH601HD/HDS Main Gear (Craig Payne)
18. 10:42 AM - Re: CH601HD/HDS Main Gear (LarryMcFarland)
19. 10:48 AM - Re: CH601HD/HDS Main Gear (LarryMcFarland)
20. 11:48 AM - 6F1-1 and 6F1-2 too short (rear fuselage bottom skins) (John and Kim Lumkes)
21. 12:03 PM - Re: Scam warning/old scam still around (Robin Bellach)
22. 12:37 PM - Re: 6F1-1 and 6F1-2 too short (rear fuselage bottom skins) (LarryMcFarland)
23. 12:38 PM - Re: CH601HD/HDS Main Gear (David Mikesell)
24. 12:44 PM - Re: 6F1-1 and 6F1-2 too short (rear fuselage bottom skins) ()
25. 12:59 PM - Re: 6F1-1 and 6F1-2 too short (rear fuselage bottom skins) ()
26. 12:59 PM - Re: Bolt Torque Specs (Randy Bryant)
27. 01:35 PM - Re: Question on JD Alt Regulator (lynn dingfelder)
28. 01:46 PM - Re: 6F1-1 and 6F1-2 too short (rear fuselage bottom skins) (Paul Mulwitz)
29. 02:38 PM - Aileron trim (or not) (Richard Vetterli)
30. 03:37 PM - Re: Aileron trim (or not) (Paul Mulwitz)
31. 03:40 PM - Re: Question on JD Alt Regulator (Randy Stout)
32. 03:53 PM - Re: Compressors one last thought (Bill Naumuk)
33. 04:05 PM - Scratch building??? Maybe?? (John Hines)
34. 04:09 PM - Re: Rivet gun "bounce" (Bill Naumuk)
35. 04:27 PM - Zenith HD (calkath@infostations.com)
36. 05:04 PM - Re: Scratch building??? Maybe?? (jsimons2)
37. 05:16 PM - molded fuel tank? (jsimons2)
38. 05:38 PM - Re: Scratch building??? Maybe?? (Ashcraft, Keith -AES)
39. 05:48 PM - Re: Zenith HD (LarryMcFarland)
40. 05:57 PM - Re: Scratch building??? Maybe?? (John Hines)
41. 05:59 PM - Re: Rivet gun "bounce" (Jack Russell)
42. 06:54 PM - Re: Aileron trim (or not) (Noel Loveys)
43. 07:27 PM - Re: Scratch building??? Maybe?? (Zodie Rocket)
44. 08:03 PM - Re: Jabiru Bing carb vs Aerocarb (Brandon Tucker)
45. 08:14 PM - Re: CH601HD/HDS Main Gear (Brandon Tucker)
46. 09:07 PM - Re: Scratch building??? Maybe?? (Randy Bryant)
47. 09:07 PM - Re: Aileron trim (or not) (Paul Mulwitz)
48. 11:34 PM - Aluminum pricing (Tom and Bren Henderson)
Message 1
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| Subject: | CH-701 and Czech Amphib floats |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Cannon, Walt" <walt.cannon@boeing.com>
Greetings All,
I am a CH701 (912S) builder/flyer. During the building of my plane I
thought that I would probably want to put it on floats and therefore
made the recommended structural enhancements. Now the time has come to
do some further research and I am interested in
comments/information/recommendations from anyone flying the 1150/1200
amphibious 4 wheel floats on a 701. Please feel free to mail me off line
and pictures would be welcomed. Here is a list of the main things I am
interested in:
Your experience and method for ordering the floats
Quality of the floats and associated components
How well the installation kit was engineered and if it included most all
the items you needed
How well the floats fit the attach point on your 701
Where you installed the retraction pump and system
How the floats handle on the water and take-off times and distances
Cruise performance
Thanks in advance for your input,
Walt Cannon
N701WD Seattle WA USA
Currently living in Brisbane Australia
Message 2
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| Subject: | CH 701 and Amphib floats |
"made the recommended structural enhancements"???
I am also panning on mounting the Czech floats, but I wasn't aware of
any modifications to the plane. What structural enhancements are needed?
Gordon
Message 3
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| Subject: | Compressors one last thought |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "John Bolding" <jnbolding1@teleshare.net>
> Time: 10:25:39 PM PST US
> From: "Dave Thompson" <dave.thompson@verizon.net>
> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Air Compressor Air Compressor
>
> William, With the the 26 > gal tank,
> it doesnt run very often.
>
>> CFM. Belt drive is usually quieter than direct drive. >
dave.thompson@verizon.net
One thing I forgot to mention during the last go 'round on air compressors
is sizing.
When selling air compressors on the Gulf Coast for a LONG time I had to be
aware of a potential problem of the pump not being brought up to temp.
My industrial customers (petrochem,industrial manufacturing and marine)
bought a compressor to last 30-40 yrs. Had MANY that went 50 +. BUT you have
to USE them to get that kinda lifespan. I usually sized the pump where it
would run at least 40% of the shift.
Just like an engine, if you drive down to the grocery store 2 miles away,
and back , once a week and let the car sit for a week ,or fly your airplane
one circuit and let it sit for a month you have more problems with internal
corrosion than if you ran it frequently and long.
Problem is minimal in low humidity areas and much worse in high humidity
areas.
On a compressor during a period of non- use, the moisture in the cyls that
condensed during the final cooldown finds it's way past the rings to the
crankcase where it contaminates the oil.
Turns it milky so it's easy to spot.
Fix is easy, if this is noticed either OPEN the valve and run the pump
non-stop 'till the oil turns clear again (pumps gets to normal operating
temp and moisture evaporates faster)or change it. LOW&SLOW John
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Jabiru Bing carb vs Aerocarb |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Darryl Legg <dlegg@tpg.com.au>
Hi Brandon,
Do you have any operating figures on the aerocarb, and what engine is it
on? How do you think it compares to a normal carburettor performance
wise and do you have a carb heat box fitted?
Darryl.
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Air Compressor Air Compressor |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: William Dominguez <bill_dom@yahoo.com>
Thanks for the info Dave. I did search the archive
before posting but some things where still unclear for
me. I took a look at the Home Depot and Husky site and
for the Husky model you have and it seems like a great
choice for the price. I couldn't find the dimensions
in neither site, I'll appreciate if you can give me an
estimate of its size if you can.
Thanks
William Dominguez
Zodiac 601XL Plans
--- Dave Thompson <dave.thompson@verizon.net> wrote:
> William,
>
> I posted a question a month or so about air
> compressors. Check the archives.
> Theres a bunch of great responses. Thanks guys!
>
>
>
> I have purchased a great deal of tools from Harbor
> Freight. As everyone
> knows, some of their stuff is, let me say not the
> best. I havent had a
> great deal of luck with most of their power tools.
> Id shy away from their
> air compressors.
>
>
>
> I agree with the other guys that you might look into
> as large a compressor
> that you can afford. There is a great deal of other
> air tools that you might
> want to use in the future. The way I look at it,
> its one of the major tools
> in my shop. I remember when I purchased my first 7
> table saw just out of
> high school. It was the cheapest I could find. It
> did the job but not very
> well. I soon replaced it with a full size 10 from
> Sears. I still have it &
> love it 30 years later.
> Dont make a mistake and under buy.
>
>
>
> With the advice from the other guys here and other
> research, last week I
> purchased the Husky VT6315 from Home Depot for just
> under $400.00. They also
> let me make payments. It looks exactly like the
> Campbell/housefield but red
> rather than blue. It was a little cheaper in price
> too. I think they make it
> for Home Depot. It was one of the largest I could
> find at 120VAC and on
> wheels. It has a 26 gal tank and is belt driven
> which makes it much quieter
> than my old direct drive pancake. They claim it is
> 5 HP but we know thats
> peak so its really about 2 or 3HP. One of the best
> features to me is that
> it is upright so it has the same footprint as my 1HP
> framers pancake
> compressor (I have a very small shop 10 X 35). I
> dont have a kit yet so
> Ive just played around with it so far. However, I
> havent had any trouble
> using my die grinders, panel saw, drill or
> impact. With the 26 gal tank,
> it doesnt run very often.
>
>
>
> When researching, I used the CFM @ 90PSI to compare.
> Look for the highest
> CFM. Belt drive is usually quieter than direct
> drive. Also, try to put it on
> its own circuit without an extension cord. That way
> it will not be dragged
> down by other things on the same circuit. That can
> lesson its performance
> and weaken the motor over time.
>
>
>
> I purchased a 12 whip hose with swivel and an
> in-line pressure regulator
> ball valve for my riveter from HF. I think they will
> be handy.
>
>
>
> One last thing: Dont forget to get the nose pieces
> of your riveter modified
> per Zeniths specs. They did mine for free at the
> rudder workshop.
>
>
>
> Dave Thompson
>
> dave.thompson@verizon.net
>
> Do not archive
>
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
Message 6
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| Subject: | Homebuilt flanging tool |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Kevin Kinney <kkinney@fuse.net>
A flanging tool is easy enough to make. The key is the flanging dies. Or as I
call them,z "skateboard bearings." I bought them at a bigbox department store
that stocked skateboards.
I mounted them on a palm sized bit 3/4" plywood. If you just want to use them
exclusively for flanging, you might mount them on a piece of square steel tube.
The recently departed (from this hemisphere, at least) Neil Hulin passed this tip
along to me: Bending the edge of aluminum sheet gives it a finished edge.
I use the flanging tool to give the sheet just the tiniest bit of downward bend
causing the edge to seat nicely.
The key here is NOT to use the entire width of the ball bearing. I taped some
spacers in front & behind the bearing to reduce the width of sheet going through
the bearings.
It's pretty simple. And you don't have to wait on backorder.
Regards,
Kevin Kinney
Message 7
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| Subject: | Rivet gun "bounce" |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Kevin Kinney <kkinney@fuse.net>
Here is something to consider regarding bouncing air rivetters: I've used one (1)
from HF & one (1) from ZAC. This isn't much to build an opinion on, but it's
all I have.
The ZAC rivetter is a lot more "snappy" in it's performance. It's faster than
HF, but it does have a rather forceful release when the rivet stem breaks. If
your pressure reglator is too high, you will get a bounce.
The HF rivetter (which I used on my project) eases into the pull and there's very
little reaction when the rivet stem snaps. If you were crticial, you could
say it feels lazy. Regardless, it gets the job done.
On the whole, I prefer the HF gun, but then I've use that one far more than the
ZAC.
Regards,
Kevin Kinney
Message 8
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| Subject: | CH-701 and Czech Amphib floats |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: <max.johansson@nokia.com>
Walt
Are there structural enhancements needed for
a 701SP-kit ? I have not implemented any myself...
Have some experience with CZAW 1150 floats and yesterday a
C42 Ikarus was successfully mounted on CZAW 1200 floats here,
it behaves now much more nicely than on Full Lotus bags.
My friends are flying a 701-SP on 3-wheel 1150 floats
and we have another set for our Skyranger as well to
be installed this summer. My own 701 set is similar,
also delivered ready-made directly from CZAW with a
conversion kit that includes the folding nose-wheel.
The performance is grately influenced by the mounting
angle of the floats. If you want maximum performance,
say 140 km/h instead of 120 km/h you will have to
decrease this angle. The price is that the start and
landing will never use the STOL ability of the wing,
as no air will pass through the slat slot...
The 701 is always a great performer as a floatplane
and always lifts off from the water by itself. Just
push the throttle forward and enjoy the ride, no need
to find the sweet spot as in most other floatplanes.
always airborne within 200 yards even with a 80hp 912 engine,
but if you regularly want to pass high trees at the shoreline
it might be better to use the original float angle and
a 100 hp 912-ULS engine
I have made a water flying quadrant using the hydraulic
pump as one support and using a long bolt shaft for a water
rudder lifting lever (30 cm wire movement needed), for the
nosewheel lock release lever and for the a 3-pos flap handle,
as the original flap handle is way down and really hard to
use. All this sits now on the left floor between my legs.
best regards
Max
Max Johansson
making a 912-SP on 1150 floats
in Helsinki, Finland
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
>ext Cannon, Walt
>Sent: 12 June, 2006 12:46
>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Zenith-List: CH-701 and Czech Amphib floats
>
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Cannon, Walt"
>--> <walt.cannon@boeing.com>
>
>Greetings All,
>
>I am a CH701 (912S) builder/flyer. During the building of my
>plane I thought that I would probably want to put it on floats
>and therefore made the recommended structural enhancements.
>Now the time has come to do some further research and I am
>interested in comments/information/recommendations from anyone
>flying the 1150/1200 amphibious 4 wheel floats on a 701.
>Please feel free to mail me off line and pictures would be
>welcomed. Here is a list of the main things I am interested in:
>
>Your experience and method for ordering the floats Quality of
>the floats and associated components How well the installation
>kit was engineered and if it included most all the items you
>needed How well the floats fit the attach point on your 701
>Where you installed the retraction pump and system How the
>floats handle on the water and take-off times and distances
>Cruise performance
>
>Thanks in advance for your input,
>
>Walt Cannon
>N701WD Seattle WA USA
>Currently living in Brisbane Australia
>
>
>Photoshare, and much much more:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Scam warning/old scam still around |
BlankJust a word of warning.
I don't know how may of you guys/gals know about this old scam. I have
my prop on Barnstormers and this is about the fourth one of these I've
gotten like the one below. Here are the dead giveaways; e-mail
address is almost always yahoo, it is untraceable. They are not
American, notice the spelling of favorable. They have their own
shipper. The want to purchase it immediately. They want to know the
present status and price. If you reply, they will ask you to take a
cashier's check. It will be more than the amount of the product you are
selling. They want you to deposit it in your bank and wire the
difference to them.
A couple of years ago I got one of these checks. I called the issuing
bank. It was fake. You could not tell the difference between it an a
real check. I contacted the US Marshal's Office. They said "Thank You,
we already have plenty of these". They weren't being smart, it is that
this is so rampant they are swamped. I kept it for a while and threw
it away.
A lot of people think a cashiers check is the same as a money order, it
is not. A cashiers check is almost the same as a personal check other
than the issuer is a bank rather than a person. It still takes several
days to clear. In the mean time if you have sent the buyer the
difference he asked for, you are screwed. Because the cashiers check
comes back hot. And, of course the buyer is gone to yahoo land.
I get a whole bunch of these e-mails every time I use Barnstormers. I
e-mailed them and suggested they put warnings on their site, but I guess
they didn't want to run off customers. You just have to weed them out.
George Bruce,I came across your props for sale which i am interested
in,and i am ready to purchase it immediately.But i would like to know
the present status and it's cost price so that I can proceed further on
with payment, for the shippment I have a reputable shipping. Awaiting
your favourable reply.
Larry Martin, www.skyhawg.com
Message 10
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| Subject: | Bolt Torque Specs |
I am finishing up the center spar for my 601 XL. There are 6, AN4-15A
bolts that go through the center spar. Are there torque specifications
on these bolts that I need to follow?
Thanks in advance,
Randy
XL Wings - Plans Only
http://www.n344rb.com
Message 11
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| Subject: | CH-701 and Czech Amphib floats |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: <max.johansson@nokia.com>
Sorry listers, this was intended just for Walt but never mind...
do not archieve
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com]
>Sent: 12 June, 2006 16:39
>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: Zenith-List: CH-701 and Czech Amphib floats
>
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: <max.johansson@nokia.com>
>
>Walt
>
>Are there structural enhancements needed for a 701SP-kit ?
>I have not implemented any myself...
>
>Have some experience with CZAW 1150 floats and yesterday a
>C42 Ikarus was successfully mounted on CZAW 1200 floats here,
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Question on JD Alt Regulator |
GPJ, That is a Very Good question. I would also like to
know. From diagrams on web sites I've seen it is usually connected
to the + buss bar with small wire as if it were sensing the output
voltage. I would think that could done internally, but I'm no
engineer. If you get the answer off list please pass it on to
me. Thanks. Cleone
Do not archive
At 04:04 PM 6/11/06, you wrote:
>Would appreciate any help you might offer...
>
>Reference to John Deere Alternator Regulator pin #5 ...
>Where does this pin go to:
> .direct to battery
> .plus (+) buss bar
> .or where?
>
>Thanks
>GPJ
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Bolt Torque Specs |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: LarryMcFarland <larry@macsmachine.com>
Randy,
Most bolts in structural applications will have a torque value for the
place they are used.
The AN4-15A bolt is a high strength fine thread bolt with 50-70 inch
pounds standard type nuts.
You need the Standard Aircraft Handbook 6th ed or later. Most of this
kind of information is
in this handbook. Your plans have the final word on fasteners,
dimensions etc.
Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
do not archive
Randy Bryant wrote:
> I am finishing up the center spar for my 601 XL. There are 6, AN4-15A
> bolts that go through the center spar. Are there torque
> specifications on these bolts that I need to follow?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Randy
> XL Wings - Plans Only
> http://www.n344rb.com
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Scam warning/old scam still around |
BlankI hear you Larry, Just got one myself last week and the response I
sent them may not change me getting the old scam treatment in the
future, but I't made me feel better typing it and sending it back. My
ad and response are below.
Hello Mrs caroline Janet Scammer,
How about we just dispense with the bulls**t
and you take your scam elsewhere, like the secret service for example.
Don't you guys ever get sick of jumping on new postings with the old
"broken
english", "Proceed with payment", "God bless" garbage. I mean come on!
"I
saw your advert and i will like to know more", "in other to proceed for
the
payment and book an appointmen with you", geez, what a knob job.
Oh and by the way, why don't you at least take the time to read the ad
next
time before jumping on the posting with your line of CRAP! You might
then
realize that I am looking to purchase an item and not sell. As I said
earlier, what a knob job, UNBELIEVABLE!!
Oh and let's not forget, God Bless
PS Get a life and stop wasting mine and other peoples time and maybe
someday
soon I'll be able to meet up with you in person!!!!
Steve
----- Original Message -----
From: <caroline_j@myway.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 04, 2006 8:34 AM
Subject: [barnstormers.com] Re: BRS softpack
> Dear Steve,
> the following message from caroline Janet was sent through the
> barnstormers.com web site in regard to the following listing..
> http://www.barnstormers.com/listing.php?id=108423
> to reply to caroline Janet simply reply to this email.
>
> From..........: caroline Janet <caroline_j@myway.com>
> Phone.........: 5303340031
> City..........: union
> State/Province: ca
> Country.......: usa
>
> Hello seller,
> I saw your advert and i will like to know more information about
it,also
> more picttures of it if available in other to proceed for the payment
and
> book an appointmen with you.
> Thanks
> Mrs Caroline
----- Original Message -----
From: Larry
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2006 8:45 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Scam warning/old scam still around
Just a word of warning.
I don't know how may of you guys/gals know about this old scam. I
have my prop on Barnstormers and this is about the fourth one of these
I've gotten like the one below. Here are the dead giveaways; e-mail
address is almost always yahoo, it is untraceable. They are not
American, notice the spelling of favorable. They have their own
shipper. The want to purchase it immediately. They want to know the
present status and price. If you reply, they will ask you to take a
cashier's check. It will be more than the amount of the product you are
selling. They want you to deposit it in your bank and wire the
difference to them.
A couple of years ago I got one of these checks. I called the issuing
bank. It was fake. You could not tell the difference between it an a
real check. I contacted the US Marshal's Office. They said "Thank You,
we already have plenty of these". They weren't being smart, it is that
this is so rampant they are swamped. I kept it for a while and threw
it away.
A lot of people think a cashiers check is the same as a money order,
it is not. A cashiers check is almost the same as a personal check
other than the issuer is a bank rather than a person. It still takes
several days to clear. In the mean time if you have sent the buyer the
difference he asked for, you are screwed. Because the cashiers check
comes back hot. And, of course the buyer is gone to yahoo land.
I get a whole bunch of these e-mails every time I use Barnstormers. I
e-mailed them and suggested they put warnings on their site, but I guess
they didn't want to run off customers. You just have to weed them out.
George Bruce,I came across your props for sale which i am interested
in,and i am ready to purchase it immediately.But i would like to know
the present status and it's cost price so that I can proceed further on
with payment, for the shippment I have a reputable shipping. Awaiting
your favourable reply.
Larry Martin, www.skyhawg.com
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
6/11/2006
Message 15
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| Subject: | CH601HD/HDS Main Gear |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Craig Payne" <craig@craigandjean.com>
I'm fairly ignorant of the internals of an HDS wing: why keep the stubs of
the old gear? They sure look draggy.
-- Craig
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of LarryMcFarland
Sent: Sunday, June 11, 2006 7:41 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: CH601HD/HDS Main Gear
David,
The pictures attached give an idea of what was done in this case.
Though I don't believe the spring gear has any advantage due to its weight
and light attachment if you repeat XL structure. You damage the spring gear
and you destroy the fuselage and all.
Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com do not archive
David Mikesell wrote:
> I have seen a few pictures of the spring type gear on a HDS. Does
> anyone know how the ribs and internal structure of the center wing
> section was modified to accept the stress and support the spring gear
> mounts? I am really interested in doing it to mine but would like to
> know what all is required.
>
> Thanks,
>
> David Mikesell
> 23597 N. Hwy 99
> Acampo, CA 95220
> 209-609-8774
> skyguynca@skyguynca.com <mailto:skyguynca@skyguynca.com>
> www.skyguynca.com <http://www.skyguynca.com>
Message 16
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| Subject: | CH601HD/HDS Main Gear |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "David Mikesell" <skyguynca@skyguynca.com>
Really I am not looking for a "advantage" of weight. I just prefer
spring gear. I really don't know how the XL gear is done hence why I
am asking for help.
---- Original Message ----
From: craig@craigandjean.com
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: CH601HD/HDS Main Gear
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Craig Payne"
><craig@craigandjean.com>
>
>I'm fairly ignorant of the internals of an HDS wing: why keep the
>stubs of
>the old gear? They sure look draggy.
>
>-- Craig
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
>LarryMcFarland
>Sent: Sunday, June 11, 2006 7:41 AM
>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Zenith-List: CH601HD/HDS Main Gear
>
>David,
>The pictures attached give an idea of what was done in this case.
>Though I don't believe the spring gear has any advantage due to its
>weight
>and light attachment if you repeat XL structure. You damage the
>spring gear
>and you destroy the fuselage and all.
>
>Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com do not archive
>
>David Mikesell wrote:
>
>> I have seen a few pictures of the spring type gear on a HDS. Does
>> anyone know how the ribs and internal structure of the center wing
>> section was modified to accept the stress and support the spring
>gear
>> mounts? I am really interested in doing it to mine but would like
>to
>> know what all is required.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> David Mikesell
>> 23597 N. Hwy 99
>> Acampo, CA 95220
>> 209-609-8774
>> skyguynca@skyguynca.com <mailto:skyguynca@skyguynca.com>
>> www.skyguynca.com <http://www.skyguynca.com>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | CH601HD/HDS Main Gear |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Craig Payne" <craig@craigandjean.com>
I was asking about Larry's plane specifically. From what I see in his photos
he has the spring gear but still has the stubs of the factory gear
protruding from the bottom of the wings.
-- Craig
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Mikesell
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2006 11:10 AM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: CH601HD/HDS Main Gear
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "David Mikesell"
--> <skyguynca@skyguynca.com>
Really I am not looking for a "advantage" of weight. I just prefer spring
gear. I really don't know how the XL gear is done hence why I am asking for
help.
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: CH601HD/HDS Main Gear |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: LarryMcFarland <larry@macsmachine.com>
Craig,
I think in considering the weight that was added, the builder may have
had second thoughts about
what he'd done. The old gear looked like it had been there for a long
time without paint.
I'd have replaced the old gear struts or blasted and painted them again.
Larry Mc
do not archive
Craig Payne wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Craig Payne" <craig@craigandjean.com>
>
>I'm fairly ignorant of the internals of an HDS wing: why keep the stubs of
>the old gear? They sure look draggy.
>
>-- Craig
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: CH601HD/HDS Main Gear |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: LarryMcFarland <larry@macsmachine.com>
David,
You might look closely at the image of the gear and fuselage exploded
view on the Zenith site, see link.
http://www.zenithair.com/zodiac/xl/drawings.html
It might be a little difficult to do on a HDS correctly because of the
tie across the bottom and vertical
supports.
Larry Mc
do not archive
David Mikesell wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "David Mikesell" <skyguynca@skyguynca.com>
>
>
>Really I am not looking for a "advantage" of weight. I just prefer
>spring gear. I really don't know how the XL gear is done hence why I
>am asking for help.
>
>
>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | 6F1-1 and 6F1-2 too short (rear fuselage bottom skins) |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "John and Kim Lumkes" <lumkes@msoe.edu>
Hello,
I am working on the "simple" step of joining the rear fuselage bottom and
end skin, 6F1-1 and 6F1-2 together, and 6F1-1 is 4 mm too short (2220 versus
2224mm). Not a big deal, except for that the two pieces are supposed to
overlap 20 mm for a 10 mm rivet edge distance, and the overall length is
supposed to be 2544, and I am only getting the 2540 with the 20 mm overlap.
I have contacted the factory and am awaiting their response as well. I see
my options as:
1. Buy material and make the part myself or order from factory. The smaller
piece 6F1-2 I cannot make longer as it would make the stabilizer mounts too
far apart or else comprimise the rivet edge distance.
2. Overlap 16 mm with an 8 mm edge distance; the longerons also span the
seam.
3. Leave it 4 mm short (not sure of problems later on with this).
Any thoughts or options?
Thanks!
John Lumkes
601HD-912
lumkes(at)msoe.edu
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Re: Scam warning/old scam still around |
BlankIn the past I have always ignored and deleted thise scam messages,
but I tried a new tact recently when flooded with them as a result of
the 1,200 auction listings I have running on GunBroler.com. I simply
took a second to respond "OK" to one, and received a phony cashiers
check mailed from England. My thought is that It takes hardly no time to
respond thusly, but the scammer is then faced with wasting his time and
some real $ to precede with sending the worthless paper at international
mail rates. Seems that if many people did this, it would really hit'm in
the pocketbook.
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2006 11:36 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Scam warning/old scam still around
I hear you Larry, Just got one myself last week and the response I
sent them may not change me getting the old scam treatment in the
future, but I't made me feel better typing it and sending it back. My
ad and response are below.
Hello Mrs caroline Janet Scammer,
How about we just dispense with the bulls**t
and you take your scam elsewhere, like the secret service for example.
Don't you guys ever get sick of jumping on new postings with the old
"broken
english", "Proceed with payment", "God bless" garbage. I mean come
on! "I
saw your advert and i will like to know more", "in other to proceed
for the
payment and book an appointmen with you", geez, what a knob job.
Oh and by the way, why don't you at least take the time to read the ad
next
time before jumping on the posting with your line of CRAP! You might
then
realize that I am looking to purchase an item and not sell. As I said
earlier, what a knob job, UNBELIEVABLE!!
Oh and let's not forget, God Bless
PS Get a life and stop wasting mine and other peoples time and maybe
someday
soon I'll be able to meet up with you in person!!!!
Steve
----- Original Message -----
From: <caroline_j@myway.com>
To: <hilander@charter.net>
Sent: Sunday, June 04, 2006 8:34 AM
Subject: [barnstormers.com] Re: BRS softpack
> Dear Steve,
> the following message from caroline Janet was sent through the
> barnstormers.com web site in regard to the following listing..
> http://www.barnstormers.com/listing.php?id=108423
> to reply to caroline Janet simply reply to this email.
>
> From..........: caroline Janet <caroline_j@myway.com>
> Phone.........: 5303340031
> City..........: union
> State/Province: ca
> Country.......: usa
>
> Hello seller,
> I saw your advert and i will like to know more information about
it,also
> more picttures of it if available in other to proceed for the
payment and
> book an appointmen with you.
> Thanks
> Mrs Caroline
----- Original Message -----
From: Larry
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2006 8:45 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Scam warning/old scam still around
Just a word of warning.
I don't know how may of you guys/gals know about this old scam. I
have my prop on Barnstormers and this is about the fourth one of these
I've gotten like the one below. Here are the dead giveaways; e-mail
address is almost always yahoo, it is untraceable. They are not
American, notice the spelling of favorable. They have their own
shipper. The want to purchase it immediately. They want to know the
present status and price. If you reply, they will ask you to take a
cashier's check. It will be more than the amount of the product you are
selling. They want you to deposit it in your bank and wire the
difference to them.
A couple of years ago I got one of these checks. I called the
issuing bank. It was fake. You could not tell the difference between
it an a real check. I contacted the US Marshal's Office. They said
"Thank You, we already have plenty of these". They weren't being smart,
it is that this is so rampant they are swamped. I kept it for a while
and threw it away.
A lot of people think a cashiers check is the same as a money order,
it is not. A cashiers check is almost the same as a personal check
other than the issuer is a bank rather than a person. It still takes
several days to clear. In the mean time if you have sent the buyer the
difference he asked for, you are screwed. Because the cashiers check
comes back hot. And, of course the buyer is gone to yahoo land.
I get a whole bunch of these e-mails every time I use Barnstormers.
I e-mailed them and suggested they put warnings on their site, but I
guess they didn't want to run off customers. You just have to weed
them out.
George Bruce,I came across your props for sale which i am interested
in,and i am ready to purchase it immediately.But i would like to know
the present status and it's cost price so that I can proceed further on
with payment, for the shippment I have a reputable shipping. Awaiting
your favourable reply.
Larry Martin, www.skyhawg.com
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
Date: 6/11/2006
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: 6F1-1 and 6F1-2 too short (rear fuselage bottom skins) |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: LarryMcFarland <larry@macsmachine.com>
John,
After looking at the drawings, I see you have 3 options. The first
would be to call Zenith and request another
piece be sent to you. Likely they would and this only takes time. The
second would be to order materials and
make the part yourself and this also takes time. The third would be to
shorten the top skin the same amount and
keep the width given on the plans. This would permit you to continue to
build without lost time. This would, however
cause your rudder to be closer to the elevator and the rudder/elevator
travel might be inhibited just a bit. It's very close
and could become a problem. Recommend if you have the material, make
another one, but if you don't contact Nick
and he'll send you another one. Stay with the plans in any case for the
reasons mentioned.
Good luck,.
Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
John and Kim Lumkes wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "John and Kim Lumkes" <lumkes@msoe.edu>
>
>Hello,
>
>I am working on the "simple" step of joining the rear fuselage bottom and
>end skin, 6F1-1 and 6F1-2 together, and 6F1-1 is 4 mm too short (2220 versus
>2224mm). Not a big deal, except for that the two pieces are supposed to
>overlap 20 mm for a 10 mm rivet edge distance, and the overall length is
>supposed to be 2544, and I am only getting the 2540 with the 20 mm overlap.
>I have contacted the factory and am awaiting their response as well. I see
>my options as:
>1. Buy material and make the part myself or order from factory. The smaller
>piece 6F1-2 I cannot make longer as it would make the stabilizer mounts too
>far apart or else comprimise the rivet edge distance.
>2. Overlap 16 mm with an 8 mm edge distance; the longerons also span the
>seam.
>3. Leave it 4 mm short (not sure of problems later on with this).
>
>Any thoughts or options?
>Thanks!
>John Lumkes
>601HD-912
>lumkes(at)msoe.edu
>
>
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: CH601HD/HDS Main Gear |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "David Mikesell" <skyguynca@skyguynca.com>
Thanks Larry.
David Mikesell
23597 N. Hwy 99
Acampo, CA 95220
209-609-8774
skyguynca@skyguynca.com
www.skyguynca.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "LarryMcFarland" <larry@macsmachine.com>
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2006 10:46 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: CH601HD/HDS Main Gear
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: LarryMcFarland <larry@macsmachine.com>
>
> David,
> You might look closely at the image of the gear and fuselage exploded
> view on the Zenith site, see link.
> http://www.zenithair.com/zodiac/xl/drawings.html
> It might be a little difficult to do on a HDS correctly because of the
> tie across the bottom and vertical
> supports.
>
> Larry Mc
> do not archive
>
>
> David Mikesell wrote:
>
> >--> Zenith-List message posted by: "David Mikesell"
<skyguynca@skyguynca.com>
> >
> >
> >Really I am not looking for a "advantage" of weight. I just prefer
> >spring gear. I really don't know how the XL gear is done hence why I
> >am asking for help.
> >
> >
> >
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: 6F1-1 and 6F1-2 too short (rear fuselage bottom skins) |
Cc: John and Kim Lumkes <lumkes@msoe.edu>
--> Zenith-List message posted by: <dredmoody@cox.net>
The factory will be the best source of info on this issue of course, but I think
the 8mm edge distance is the best option. A second option would be to scribe
the exact overlap of the two pieces and remove enough material form one or both
of them so that they butt rather than overlap. Then cut a 20mm strip to joint
them together with two parallel rivet lines instead of one. A third idea is
to scuff the overlap joint area with 200 grit sandpaper (God forbid you might
touch the area with the wrong color Scotchbrite) and dimple the rivet holes to
nest together. Set the rivets with a flush nose piece using the 8mm edge distance,
single rivet line with epoxy in the joint as you cleco them together and
rivet. The dimples assume some of the shear resistance rather than depending
only on the rivets. That's the basic technique for the Titan kits. Don't forget
to clean the clecos with alcohol as you remove them.
Ed Moody II
Rayne, LA
601XL / wings
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "John and Kim Lumkes" <lumkes@msoe.edu>
the two pieces are supposed to
> overlap 20 mm for a 10 mm rivet edge distance, and the overall length is
> supposed to be 2544, and I am only getting the 2540 with the 20 mm overlap.
> I have contacted the factory and am awaiting their response as well. I see
> my options as:
> 1. Buy material and make the part myself or order from factory. The smaller
> piece 6F1-2 I cannot make longer as it would make the stabilizer mounts too
> far apart or else comprimise the rivet edge distance.
> 2. Overlap 16 mm with an 8 mm edge distance; the longerons also span the
> seam.
> 3. Leave it 4 mm short (not sure of problems later on with this).
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Re: 6F1-1 and 6F1-2 too short (rear fuselage bottom skins) |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: <dredmoody@cox.net>
---- dredmoody@cox.net wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: <dredmoody@cox.net>
Regarding my previous post, the strip would have to be 40mm to achieve the 10mm
edge distance. Sorry for the error.
Ed
"Then cut a 20mm strip to joint them together with two parallel rivet lines instead
of one."
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Re: Bolt Torque Specs |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Randy Bryant" <randy@shadycreekoutlaws.com>
Thanks Larry,
My plans don't say what to torque these bolts to... Since most are kit
builders and don't have to actually build this part, since it comes from the
factory already assembled, I guess that the torque value for these 6 center
spar bolts is not 'common knowledge'... I guess my best bet is to call ZAC
and see what they can tell me...
Thanks much,
Randy
XL Wings - Plans Only
http://www.n344rb.com
Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "LarryMcFarland" <larry@macsmachine.com>
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2006 11:03 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Bolt Torque Specs
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: LarryMcFarland <larry@macsmachine.com>
>
> Randy,
> Most bolts in structural applications will have a torque value for the
> place they are used.
> The AN4-15A bolt is a high strength fine thread bolt with 50-70 inch
> pounds standard type nuts.
> You need the Standard Aircraft Handbook 6th ed or later. Most of this
> kind of information is
> in this handbook. Your plans have the final word on fasteners, dimensions
> etc.
>
> Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
> do not archive
>
> Randy Bryant wrote:
>
>> I am finishing up the center spar for my 601 XL. There are 6, AN4-15A
>> bolts that go through the center spar. Are there torque specifications
>> on these bolts that I need to follow?
>> Thanks in advance,
>> Randy
>> XL Wings - Plans Only
>> http://www.n344rb.com
>>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List
> http://wiki.matronics.com
>
>
>
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Re: Question on JD Alt Regulator |
GPJ,
I have regulator no. AM101406, which I think supercedes
AM126304. This unit has no connection numbers stamped or printed on it,
but I have a charging circuit diagram from John Deere. Looking at the
finned side, with the five terminals at the top, starting on the left:
1 - direct to battery (at starter connection)
2 - to alternator
3 - to alternator
4 - to indicator lamp (other lamp connection to ground)
5 - through 10 amp fuse (or breaker) to ignition, hot only when
key is on
Hope this is useful,
Lynn 601XL Corvair
35%
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: 6F1-1 and 6F1-2 too short (rear fuselage bottom skins) |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Paul Mulwitz <p.mulwitz@worldnet.att.net>
>scribe the exact overlap of the two pieces and remove enough
>material form one or both of them so that they butt rather than
>overlap. Then cut a 20mm strip to joint them together with two
>parallel rivet lines instead of one.
I think this approach would actually call for a 40mm strip rather than 20.
Good luck,
Paul
XL wings
do not archive
-
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Aileron trim (or not) |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Richard Vetterli <richvetterli@yahoo.com>
Listers,
Instead of using the electric trim tab on the aileron
of my XL, Im planning on installing a modified
version of the Vans spring trim on the stick. Very
K.I.S.S. It will be similar to the Bungee Trim
found on the www.ch601.org web site, however, Im
going to use the Ray Allen servo that came with my
trim tab kit to control the tension of the springs
(also similar to the Vans electric/spring trim).
Does anyone see any safety or hazard problems with
this set-up? Also, any scratch builder that wants a
completed trim tab with horn, hinge and channel, get
in touch with me off list and make an offer.
Thanks,
Rich Vetterli
XL/Corvair
Working on wings
Check it out at www.geocities.com/stixx5a
__________________________________________________
protection around
__________________________________________________
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | Re: Aileron trim (or not) |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Paul Mulwitz <p.mulwitz@worldnet.att.net>
I spent many happy hours flying a Cessna Hawk XP with bungee rudder
trim. The bungee system was the only thing about this wonderful
airplane that seemed to create problems. I felt it didn't do a good
job and was an after thought (normally powered C-172's don't need
rudder trim, but the huge engine in the XP makes it necessary.
I am not sure this experience translates to a Zodiac, but I opted for
the electric trim properly installed in the aileron. I suspect this
will function much better than the bungee system. I didn't find it
at all difficult to install, and it could probably even be installed
as an afterthought with the aileron already mounted to the wing. The
only really challenging part would be drilling the hole for the
electric cable exit from the aileron.
Paul
>Instead of using the electric trim tab on the aileron
>of my XL, I'm planning on installing a modified
>version of the Van's spring trim on the stick. Very
>K.I.S.S. It will be similar to the "Bungee Trim"
>found on the "www.ch601.org" web site, however, I'm
>going to use the Ray Allen servo that came with my
>trim tab kit to control the tension of the springs
>(also similar to the Van's electric/spring trim).
>Does anyone see any safety or hazard problems with
>this set-up?
>
>
--
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Question on JD Alt Regulator |
Greg
Have you looked at this? http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/corvair/dynamo.html I followed this when I did mine
Randy Stout
n282rs"at"earthlink.net
www.geocities.com/r5t0ut21
At 04:04 PM 6/11/06, you wrote:
Would appreciate any help you might offer...
Reference to John Deere Alternator Regulator pin #5 ...
Where does this pin go to:
.direct to battery
.plus (+) buss bar
.or where?
Thanks
GPJ
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Compressors one last thought |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk@alltel.net>
All-
I've had the same compressor for many years, and I don't care what make
or model you own, there's one PM procedure you can't ignore. Drain the tank
after every use. Everything else is secondary.
Bill
>
>
>
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | Scratch building??? Maybe?? |
Guys,
A couple of you guys have been trying to convince me to scratch build
since I'm kinda stuck (financially) on my kit. I already have my tail
kit complete. I ordered the DVD "Scratch Building Basics for Metal
Aircraft" last week but haven't received it yet. I was looking on
aircraft spruce for pricing on 6061T6 aluminum. Is there a list
published somewhere with the quantity and size of materials needed to
scratch build? I have also seen a few pictures on builders web pages
with full size drawings of templates and aluminum pieces to aid in
cutting them out. Where did you get those?
Maybe a scratch build newbie convert,
John Hines
Message 34
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|
| Subject: | Re: Rivet gun "bounce" |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk@alltel.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Kinney" <kkinney@fuse.net>
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2006 9:18 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Rivet gun "bounce"
Kevin-
You'll get bounce with a manual riveter, too. I can't say I solved the
problem, but I minimized it.
Drill a hole in poster board thickness cardboard slightly larger than
the riveter anvil and slide the riveter over the rivet stem, centering the
anvil in the hole. Very few "Bounces" will be at 90 degrees, and the
cardboard will keep you from garfing up the surface you're riveting.
Zero investment, works 90 percent of the time, and isn't time consuming.
Good building.
Bill
>
> If your pressure reglator is too high, you will get a bounce.
>
>
>
Message 35
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|
--> Zenith-List message posted by: calkath@infostations.com
Hello; I'm new to this today I bought a Zenith HD a week or so ago I have
not had it delivered yet this is where I have a question. I'm building a
trailor and a crate to put the wings in. I would like to know what the
distance is from the ground to the belly of the aircraft between the main
gear. I have buddy that flys an XL and those measurements ar 22 inches. I
was told this week end that the HD sits a tad lower. Can anyone help on
this? The trailor and crate are due to head east on the 20th of this
month. Thanks Cal
Message 36
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|
| Subject: | Re: Scratch building??? Maybe?? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "jsimons2" <jsimons4@triad.rr.com>
Hi John,
I got my DVD about 2 weeks ago. I can tell you that after watching it all
of the mystery about forming sheet metal is gone. Yes, it is that good. I would
highly recommend it to anyone even considering "scrap" building.
I chose to scratch build due to the finacial choices I had. Choice #1 - kit, can't
afford, don't fly. Choice #2 - scratch build, affordable, fly. I'll be ordering
my 601 HDS plans in about a week and a half (next payday). I did, however,
luck out on one point. There is a major metal dealer only about 25 miles from
me. It may cost a little more (don't really know if it would) but I won't have
to pay any shipping charges (YEAH!). Good luck, I'll be joining the Zenith
brotherhood soon.
Jerome Simons
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=40247#40247
Message 37
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|
| Subject: | molded fuel tank? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "jsimons2" <jsimons4@triad.rr.com>
Hi all,
Does anyone know if there is a rotationaly molded fuel tank that would work
as a header tank for the 601? This is one change from plans that I would like
to make if one is available. Thanks.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=40250#40250
Message 38
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| Subject: | Scratch building??? Maybe?? |
Hi John,
You didn't mention if you were building a 701 or 601.
www.ch701.com, or www.ch601.org
then go to builders resources and have a look around. I know on the
CH701 site there is a fairly complete list, and I am sure there is one
on the ch601 site also.
Good luck,
Keith
CH701 - 8% -- scratch
N 38.9947
W 105.1305
Alt. 9,100'
****************************************************
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of John Hines
Sent: Mon 6/12/2006 5:03 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Scratch building??? Maybe??
Guys,
A couple of you guys have been trying to convince me to scratch build
since I'm kinda stuck (financially) on my kit. I already have my tail
kit complete. I ordered the DVD "Scratch Building Basics for Metal
Aircraft" last week but haven't received it yet. I was looking on
aircraft spruce for pricing on 6061T6 aluminum. Is there a list
published somewhere with the quantity and size of materials needed to
scratch build? I have also seen a few pictures on builders web pages
with full size drawings of templates and aluminum pieces to aid in
cutting them out. Where did you get those?
Maybe a scratch build newbie convert,
John Hines
************************************
This e-mail and any files transmitted with it are proprietary and intende
d solely
for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed. If yo
u have
received this e-mail in error please notify the sender. Please note that
any views
or opinions presented in this e-mail are solely those of the author and d
o not
necessarily represent those of ITT, Inc. The recipient should check
this e-mail and any attachments for the presence of viruses. ITT accepts
no liability for any damage caused by any virus transmitted by this e-mai
l.
************************************
Message 39
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: LarryMcFarland <larry@macsmachine.com>
Cal,
22-inches is a fairly close call. I believe the clearance would be an
inch shorter, but depends on
the engine, weights specific, less radiator shown. See link,
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/tjh/hscentersection/full/Zenith-on-the-roadh.jpg
Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
do not archive
calkath@infostations.com wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: calkath@infostations.com
>
>Hello; I'm new to this today I bought a Zenith HD a week or so ago I have
>not had it delivered yet this is where I have a question. I'm building a
>trailor and a crate to put the wings in. I would like to know what the
>distance is from the ground to the belly of the aircraft between the main
>gear. I have buddy that flys an XL and those measurements ar 22 inches. I
>was told this week end that the HD sits a tad lower. Can anyone help on
>this? The trailor and crate are due to head east on the 20th of this
>month. Thanks Cal
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 40
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|
| Subject: | Scratch building??? Maybe?? |
Keith,
Sorry, I'm building a 601 XL. You can check out my progress on my
website. www.johnsplane.com
John
John R. Hines
IT Manager
Crafton, Tull & Associates, Inc.
901 N. 47th Street, Suite 200
Rogers, AR 72756
Office: 479-878-2449
Mobile: 479-366-4783
Fax: 479-631-6224
John.Hines@craftontull.com
www.craftontull.com
Crafton, Tull & Associates, Inc. exists to anticipate and understand the
needs of our clients and provide them with successful solutions.
-----Original Message-----
From: Ashcraft, Keith -AES [mailto:Keith.Ashcraft@itt.com]
Sent: Mon Jun 12 19:45:09 2006
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Scratch building??? Maybe??
Hi John,
You didn't mention if you were building a 701 or 601.
www.ch701.com, or www.ch601.org
then go to builders resources and have a look around. I know on the
CH701 site there is a fairly complete list, and I am sure there is one
on the ch601 site also.
Good luck,
Keith
CH701 - 8% -- scratch
N 38.9947
W 105.1305
Alt. 9,100'
****************************************************
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of John Hines
Sent: Mon 6/12/2006 5:03 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Scratch building??? Maybe??
Guys,
A couple of you guys have been trying to convince me to scratch build
since I'm kinda stuck (financially) on my kit. I already have my tail
kit complete. I ordered the DVD "Scratch Building Basics for Metal
Aircraft" last week but haven't received it yet. I was looking on
aircraft spruce for pricing on 6061T6 aluminum. Is there a list
published somewhere with the quantity and size of materials needed to
scratch build? I have also seen a few pictures on builders web pages
with full size drawings of templates and aluminum pieces to aid in
cutting them out. Where did you get those?
Maybe a scratch build newbie convert,
John Hines
************************************
This e-mail and any files transmitted with it are proprietary and
intended solely
for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed. If
you have
received this e-mail in error please notify the sender. Please note that
any views
or opinions presented in this e-mail are solely those of the author and
do not
necessarily represent those of ITT, Inc. The recipient should check
this e-mail and any attachments for the presence of viruses. ITT accepts
no liability for any damage caused by any virus transmitted by this
e-mail.
************************************
This email and any files transmitted with it are confidential and
intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are
addressed. If you have received this email in error please notify the
system manager. This message contains confidential information and is
intended only for the individual named. If you are not the named
addressee you should not disseminate, distribute or copy this e-mail.
Please notify the sender immediately by e-mail if you have received this
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 3.2//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>
<TITLE>RE: Zenith-List: Scratch building??? Maybe??</TITLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY>
<!-- Converted from text/plain format -->
<P><FONT SIZE=2>Keith,<BR>
<BR>
Sorry, I'm building a 601 XL. You can check out my progress on my
website. www.johnsplane.com<BR>
<BR>
John<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BR><BR><DIV align=left><TABLE height 0 cellSpacing=0
cellPadding=0 width=400 border=0><TBODY><TR><TD
style="BACKGROUND-REPEAT: no-repeat" align=left
width="100%"><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%"
border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold; FONT-SIZE: 14pt;
COLOR: #000000; MARGIN-RIGHT: 10px; FONT-FAMILY: Arial, Verdana"
align=left>John R. Hines</TD></TR><TR><TD style="FONT-WEIGHT:
normal; FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: #000000; MARGIN-RIGHT: 10px;
FONT-FAMILY: Arial" align=left>IT Manager</TD></TR><TR><TD
style="FONT-WEIGHT: normal; FONT-SIZE: 8pt; COLOR: #767374;
MARGIN-RIGHT: 10px; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"
align=left>John.Hines@craftontull.com</TD></TR><TR><TD align=middle
height=10></TD></TR><TR><TD style="FONT-WEIGHT: normal; FONT-SIZE:
8pt; COLOR: #767374; MARGIN-RIGHT: 10px; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"
align=left><br/>
Office: 479-878-2449 <br/>
Mobile: 479-366-4783 <br/>
Fax: 479-631-6224 </TD></TR><TR><TD align=middle
height=10></TD></TR><TR><TD style="FONT-WEIGHT: normal; FONT-SIZE:
7pt; COLOR: #767374; MARGIN-RIGHT: 10px; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"
align=right><A
href="http://www.craftontull.com/">www.craftontull.com</A></TD></TR><TR
><TD style="FONT-WEIGHT: normal; FONT-SIZE: 7pt; COLOR: #767374;
MARGIN-RIGHT: 10px; FONT-FAMILY: Arial" align=right>901 N. 47th
Street, Suite 200 ·Rogers, AR 72756</TD></TR><TR><TD align=right
height=40><A title="Visit our website for more information."
style="TEXT-DECORATION: none" href="http://www.craftontull.com/"
target=_blank><IMG
src="http://www.craftontull.com/images/emailsignature_block1.gif"
border=0></A></TD></TR><TR><TD style="FONT-WEIGHT: normal;
FONT-SIZE: 8pt; COLOR: #767374; MARGIN-RIGHT: 10px; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"
align=justify>Crafton, Tull & Associates, Inc. exists to
anticipate and understand the needs of our clients and provide them with
successful
solutions.</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></DIV>-----
Original Message-----<BR>
From: Ashcraft, Keith -AES [<A
HREF="mailto:Keith.Ashcraft@itt.com">mailto:Keith.Ashcraft@itt.com</A>]
<BR>
Sent: Mon Jun 12 19:45:09 2006<BR>
To: zenith-list@matronics.com<BR>
Subject: RE: Zenith-List:
Scratch building??? Maybe??<BR>
<BR>
Hi John,<BR>
You didn't mention if you were building a 701 or 601.<BR>
<BR>
www.ch701.com, or www.ch601.org<BR>
<BR>
then go to builders resources and have a look around. I know on the
CH701 site there is a fairly complete list, and I am sure there is one
on the ch601 site also.<BR>
<BR>
Good luck,<BR>
<BR>
Keith<BR>
CH701 - 8% -- scratch<BR>
N 38.9947<BR>
W 105.1305<BR>
Alt. 9,100'<BR>
****************************************************<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
-----Original Message-----<BR>
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of John Hines<BR>
Sent: Mon 6/12/2006 5:03 PM<BR>
Subject: Zenith-List: Scratch building??? Maybe??<BR>
<BR>
Guys,<BR>
<BR>
A couple of you guys have been trying to convince me to scratch build
since I'm kinda stuck (financially) on my kit. I already
have my tail kit complete. I ordered the DVD "Scratch
Building Basics for Metal Aircraft" last week but haven't received
it yet. I was looking on aircraft spruce for pricing on 6061T6
aluminum. Is there a list published somewhere with the quantity
and size of materials needed to scratch build? I have also seen a
few pictures on builders web pages with full size drawings of templates
and aluminum pieces to aid in cutting them out. Where did you get
those?<BR>
<BR>
Maybe a scratch build newbie convert,<BR>
<BR>
John Hines<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
************************************<BR>
This e-mail and any files transmitted with it are proprietary and
intended solely<BR>
for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed. If
you have<BR>
received this e-mail in error please notify the sender. Please note that
any views<BR>
or opinions presented in this e-mail are solely those of the author and
do not<BR>
necessarily represent those of ITT, Inc. The recipient should check<BR>
this e-mail and any attachments for the presence of viruses. ITT
accepts<BR>
no liability for any damage caused by any virus transmitted by this
e-mail.<BR>
************************************<BR>
<BR>
</FONT>
</P>
<BR><BR><FONT style="FONT-WEIGHT: normal; FONT-SIZE: 8pt;
MARGIN-RIGHT: 10px; FONT-FAMILY: Arial" align="justify">This email and
any files transmitted with it are confidential and intended solely for
the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed. If you
have received this email in error please notify the system manager. This
message contains confidential information and is intended only for the
individual named. If you are not the named addressee you should not
disseminate, distribute or copy this e-mail. Please notify the sender
immediately by e-mail if you have received this e-mail by mistake and
delete this e-mail from your system. If you are not the intended
recipient you are notified that disclosing, copying, distributing or
taking any action in reliance on the contents of this information is
strictly prohibited.</FONT></BODY>
</HTML>
Message 41
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|
| Subject: | Re: Rivet gun "bounce" |
It's all in the technique! After several "half moon" dents in the tailfeathers
I learned to start the squeeze and then pull back on the riveter. Works good but
if you pull too soon you will pull the rivet up slightly and you will end up
drilling it out. Jack in Los Osos ca. Plane in Fresno
Kevin Kinney <kkinney@fuse.net> wrote: --> Zenith-List message posted by: Kevin
Kinney
Here is something to consider regarding bouncing air rivetters: I've used one (1)
from HF & one (1) from ZAC. This isn't much to build an opinion on, but it's
all I have.
The ZAC rivetter is a lot more "snappy" in it's performance. It's faster than HF,
but it does have a rather forceful release when the rivet stem breaks. If your
pressure reglator is too high, you will get a bounce.
The HF rivetter (which I used on my project) eases into the pull and there's very
little reaction when the rivet stem snaps. If you were crticial, you could
say it feels lazy. Regardless, it gets the job done.
On the whole, I prefer the HF gun, but then I've use that one far more than the
ZAC.
Regards,
Kevin Kinney
Message 42
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|
| Subject: | Aileron trim (or not) |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Noel Loveys" <noelloveys@yahoo.ca>
I must be missing something here... You have a problem with the rudder trim
and you put a tab on the aileron??? Why not put a fixed tab on the rudder??
Noel
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Paul Mulwitz
> Sent: Monday, June 12, 2006 8:04 PM
> To: zenith-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Aileron trim (or not)
>
>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Paul Mulwitz
> <p.mulwitz@worldnet.att.net>
>
> I spent many happy hours flying a Cessna Hawk XP with bungee rudder
> trim. The bungee system was the only thing about this wonderful
> airplane that seemed to create problems. I felt it didn't do a good
> job and was an after thought (normally powered C-172's don't need
> rudder trim, but the huge engine in the XP makes it necessary.
>
> I am not sure this experience translates to a Zodiac, but I opted for
> the electric trim properly installed in the aileron. I suspect this
> will function much better than the bungee system. I didn't find it
> at all difficult to install, and it could probably even be installed
> as an afterthought with the aileron already mounted to the wing. The
> only really challenging part would be drilling the hole for the
> electric cable exit from the aileron.
>
> Paul
>
>
>
> >Instead of using the electric trim tab on the aileron
> >of my XL, I'm planning on installing a modified
> >version of the Van's spring trim on the stick. Very
> >K.I.S.S. It will be similar to the "Bungee Trim"
> >found on the "www.ch601.org" web site, however, I'm
> >going to use the Ray Allen servo that came with my
> >trim tab kit to control the tension of the springs
> >(also similar to the Van's electric/spring trim).
> >Does anyone see any safety or hazard problems with
> >this set-up?
>
>
>
>
> >
> >
> >
>
> --
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 43
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|
| Subject: | Scratch building??? Maybe?? |
John, I have posted a pretty extensive inventory of things needed for
plans builders on HYPERLINK "http://www.ch601.org/"www.ch601.org Keith
is right you may wish to spend some extended time there.
Mark Townsend Alma, Ontario
Zodiac 601XL C-GOXL, CH701 just started
HYPERLINK "http://www.ch601.org"www.ch601.org / HYPERLINK
"http://www.ch701.com"www.ch701.com/ HYPERLINK
"http://www.Osprey2.com"www.Osprey2.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Hines
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2006 8:56 PM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Scratch building??? Maybe??
Keith,
Sorry, I'm building a 601 XL. You can check out my progress on my
website. www.johnsplane.com
John
John R. Hines
IT Manager
John.Hines@craftontull.com
Office: 479-878-2449
Mobile: 479-366-4783
Fax: 479-631-6224
HYPERLINK "http://www.craftontull.com/"www.craftontull.com
901 N. 47th Street, Suite 200 =B7Rogers, AR 72756
HYPERLINK "http://www.craftontull.com/" \n
Crafton, Tull & Associates, Inc. exists to anticipate and understand the
needs of our clients and provide them with successful solutions.
-----Original Message-----
From: Ashcraft, Keith -AES [HYPERLINK
"mailto:Keith.Ashcraft@itt.com"mailto:Keith.Ashcraft@itt.com]
Sent: Mon Jun 12 19:45:09 2006
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Scratch building??? Maybe??
Hi John,
You didn't mention if you were building a 701 or 601.
www.ch701.com, or www.ch601.org
then go to builders resources and have a look around. I know on the
CH701 site there is a fairly complete list, and I am sure there is one
on the ch601 site also.
Good luck,
Keith
CH701 - 8% -- scratch
N 38.9947
W 105.1305
Alt. 9,100'
****************************************************
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of John Hines
Sent: Mon 6/12/2006 5:03 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Scratch building??? Maybe??
Guys,
A couple of you guys have been trying to convince me to scratch build
since I'm kinda stuck (financially) on my kit. I already have my tail
kit complete. I ordered the DVD "Scratch Building Basics for Metal
Aircraft" last week but haven't received it yet. I was looking on
aircraft spruce for pricing on 6061T6 aluminum. Is there a list
published somewhere with the quantity and size of materials needed to
scratch build? I have also seen a few pictures on builders web pages
with full size drawings of templates and aluminum pieces to aid in
cutting them out. Where did you get those?
Maybe a scratch build newbie convert,
John Hines
************************************
This e-mail and any files transmitted with it are proprietary and
intended solely
for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed. If
you have
received this e-mail in error please notify the sender. Please note that
any views
or opinions presented in this e-mail are solely those of the author and
do not
necessarily represent those of ITT, Inc. The recipient should check
this e-mail and any attachments for the presence of viruses. ITT accepts
no liability for any damage caused by any virus transmitted by this
e-mail.
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Message 44
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| Subject: | Re: Jabiru Bing carb vs Aerocarb |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Brandon Tucker <btucke73@yahoo.com>
Darryl,
I have the 35mm spigot mount aerocarb mounted to
my corvair. I have a header tank, which works very
well with the carb. It has been shown by others not
to work well with wing tanks and fuel pumps, even with
expensive pressure regulators. My experience has been
very good. Setup is a sinch, and the engine runs very
good with it. It idles smoothly down to 500 rpm. I
did install a standard Cont carb heat box (ACS has
them for $140) and a homemade heat muff. It didn't
take long to fabricate. It runs the Corvair up to
about 2600+ RPM on a warp drive set at 9 deg. I will
hopefully have flight information to post in a month
or so. The only downside I have seen is that it is
basically a controlled leak. If you set the mixture
to full rich, and not start relatively quickly, it
will be dumping fuel into the carb heat box and, if
left that way, will just continue to drip... That is
the real function of the idle cutoff...
R/
Brandon
__________________________________________________
Message 45
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| Subject: | RE: CH601HD/HDS Main Gear |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Brandon Tucker <btucke73@yahoo.com>
Gents,
I built spring gear mounts for my taildragger HDS
from pictures supplied to me by another builder.
After some ground testing, and jumping the plane up
and down under weight, I found that the forward
fuselage bottom skin is starting to concave. There is
no way it would be able to handle a hard landing. I
am currently rebuilding the mount situation, using the
XL plans for guidance (which is what I should have
done in the first place). Having been through the
process, I am not sure that I would build a spring
gear again. It would probably be a whole lot easier
building mounts for a tri-gear, but it has been a pain
for the taildragger. I am getting to the point where
I am regretting deviation from the plans. Those of
you who are thinking of this mod, give it some good
thought. I think I jumped in a little too hastily.
ADHD is a bitch!
-Please, no "I told you so's." I can see some
of you chomping at the bit as you read this!
R/
Brandon
__________________________________________________
Message 46
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| Subject: | Re: Scratch building??? Maybe?? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Randy Bryant" <randy@shadycreekoutlaws.com>
Hello John,
I bought all of my raw materials from Yarde Metals in High Point, NC,
although they have other warehouses across the US... You can visit their
site at: http://www.yarde.com The total cost of materials I bought from
them was about $1800...including the thick stuff to build the spring landing
gear... For my sheets, I used the cutting/layout templates from
http://www.ch601.org and just bought the number of sheets shown on the
layouts... For the flat bar, round bar, extrusion angle, I just made a
guess at that by looking at the plans and ordered it...
I've ordered a few odds & ends from Speedy's Metals. They have just about
anything you need and they'll cut to any size for you... And their prices
seem to be good too! Here's their URL:
http://stores.ebay.com/SPEEDY-METALS-1-888-744-4140
Here's what I ordered from Yarde Metals:
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
QUANTITY - THICKNESS - WIDTH - LENGTH
1 - .016" - 48" X 144"
2 - .020" - 48" X 144"
15 - .025" - 48" X 144"
2 - .032" - 48" X 144"
1 - .040" - 48" X 144"
1 - .063" - 24" X 48"
1 - .090" - 18" X 12"
1 - .125" - 18" X 12"
6 - 12' pieces - 1 1/2" wide X 1/4" thick flat bar.
2 - 12' pieces of 3/4" X 3/4" - 0.093" Thick, extrusion angle.
1 - flat bar - 8" wide - 144" Long - 3/4" thick.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The only item I've found I needed more of was the 1 1/2" wide X 1/4" thick
flat bar. When I figured what I needed, I forgot to include enough to build
the center spar with and ran short there and had to order more... Up to
this point, even with a few mistakes, I'm running on schedule, and maybe a
little ahead, on materials... There are a lot of the small parts you can
make from the scrap you generate, like pieces between wing ribs after you
cut them out, that will help conserve your material... NOW, I'm only just
about ready to start on the fuselage probably by the end of this month, so
I'm a ways from being done... BUT, by my "guesstimation" I really don't
think I'll have to order more of the 'standard' materials... I have found
that I forgot to order the flat plate to make my front nose fork from and
I'll have to order it later... But other than that, I've not found anything
I don't have material for... Oh, you'll need some galvanized sheet to make
the firewall from... I didn't order this because I'm not sure yet if I'll
make mine from galvanized or .015" stainless... The jury is still out on
this one.. When I reach a decision, I'll have to order this material...
Oh yeah, order about 1 foot of 1 1/2" X 1 1/2" X 1/8" extrusion angle...
You'll need this to make your aileron bellcrank supports...
One more pointer I'll give you:
The plans say to make the fuel tanks from .032" material, and I have enough
to do it with... BUT, I'm thinking of ordering enough .050" to make mine
from... The welders that I've talked to say that the tanks would be much
better, and easier to weld if made from .050" instead of the .032" called
for in the plans... This might be something to think of when ordering your
raw sheets...
If you have any more questions, please ask...
Thanks!
Randy
XL Wings - Plans Only
http://www.n344rb.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hines" <John.Hines@craftontull.com>
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2006 7:03 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Scratch building??? Maybe??
Guys,
A couple of you guys have been trying to convince me to scratch build since
I'm kinda stuck (financially) on my kit. I already have my tail kit
complete. I ordered the DVD "Scratch Building Basics for Metal Aircraft"
last week but haven't received it yet. I was looking on aircraft spruce for
pricing on 6061T6 aluminum. Is there a list published somewhere with the
quantity and size of materials needed to scratch build? I have also seen a
few pictures on builders web pages with full size drawings of templates and
aluminum pieces to aid in cutting them out. Where did you get those?
Maybe a scratch build newbie convert,
John Hines
Message 47
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| Subject: | Aileron trim (or not) |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Paul Mulwitz <p.mulwitz@worldnet.att.net>
Sorry for the confusion. There are two different airplanes involved
in this discussion.
The bungee rudder trim was on the Cessna. The aileron trim is
installed on my Zodiac XL.
I used the Cessna example to point out that, in my experience, bungee
trim is not a desirable choice compared to good old fashioned trim tabs.
Paul
XL wings
do not archive
At 06:51 PM 6/12/2006, you wrote:
>I must be missing something here... You have a problem with the rudder trim
>and you put a tab on the aileron??? Why not put a fixed tab on the rudder??
>
>Noel
Message 48
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| Subject: | Aluminum pricing |
John, you'd better pick up your material as quickly as possible, as ingot prices
tripled in the last 13 months. We spent 2.4 million on LESS aluminum this
year than we paid $900 thousand for just a year ago. The only reasoning offered
for the hike has been China's recent building boom (less than 10% of our
domestic aluminum makes it to China).
When it comes down to it, it's the same thing that's happening to gasoline.
We pay more because we're willing to. To make a long story short, both Alcoa
and Reynolds anticipate that the increases will continue unabated. Of course
they say the same thing about gold, so we'll see who's right! Just pick up
what you can as soon as you can. Use the info at ch601.org as a general guide
for your requirements. It's fairly close to reality.
Randy Bryant <randy@shadycreekoutlaws.com> wrote: --> Zenith-List message posted
by: "Randy Bryant"
Hello John,
I bought all of my raw materials from Yarde Metals in High Point, NC,
although they have other warehouses across the US... You can visit their
site at: http://www.yarde.com The total cost of materials I bought from
them was about $1800...including the thick stuff to build the spring landing
gear... For my sheets, I used the cutting/layout templates from
http://www.ch601.org and just bought the number of sheets shown on the
layouts... For the flat bar, round bar, extrusion angle, I just made a
guess at that by looking at the plans and ordered it...
I've ordered a few odds & ends from Speedy's Metals. They have just about
anything you need and they'll cut to any size for you... And their prices
seem to be good too! Here's their URL:
http://stores.ebay.com/SPEEDY-METALS-1-888-744-4140
Here's what I ordered from Yarde Metals:
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
QUANTITY - THICKNESS - WIDTH - LENGTH
1 - .016" - 48" X 144"
2 - .020" - 48" X 144"
15 - .025" - 48" X 144"
2 - .032" - 48" X 144"
1 - .040" - 48" X 144"
1 - .063" - 24" X 48"
1 - .090" - 18" X 12"
1 - .125" - 18" X 12"
6 - 12' pieces - 1 1/2" wide X 1/4" thick flat bar.
2 - 12' pieces of 3/4" X 3/4" - 0.093" Thick, extrusion angle.
1 - flat bar - 8" wide - 144" Long - 3/4" thick.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The only item I've found I needed more of was the 1 1/2" wide X 1/4" thick
flat bar. When I figured what I needed, I forgot to include enough to build
the center spar with and ran short there and had to order more... Up to
this point, even with a few mistakes, I'm running on schedule, and maybe a
little ahead, on materials... There are a lot of the small parts you can
make from the scrap you generate, like pieces between wing ribs after you
cut them out, that will help conserve your material... NOW, I'm only just
about ready to start on the fuselage probably by the end of this month, so
I'm a ways from being done... BUT, by my "guesstimation" I really don't
think I'll have to order more of the 'standard' materials... I have found
that I forgot to order the flat plate to make my front nose fork from and
I'll have to order it later... But other than that, I've not found anything
I don't have material for... Oh, you'll need some galvanized sheet to make
the firewall from... I didn't order this because I'm not sure yet if I'll
make mine from galvanized or .015" stainless... The jury is still out on
this one.. When I reach a decision, I'll have to order this material...
Oh yeah, order about 1 foot of 1 1/2" X 1 1/2" X 1/8" extrusion angle...
You'll need this to make your aileron bellcrank supports...
One more pointer I'll give you:
The plans say to make the fuel tanks from .032" material, and I have enough
to do it with... BUT, I'm thinking of ordering enough .050" to make mine
from... The welders that I've talked to say that the tanks would be much
better, and easier to weld if made from .050" instead of the .032" called
for in the plans... This might be something to think of when ordering your
raw sheets...
If you have any more questions, please ask...
Thanks!
Randy
XL Wings - Plans Only
http://www.n344rb.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hines"
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2006 7:03 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Scratch building??? Maybe??
Guys,
A couple of you guys have been trying to convince me to scratch build since
I'm kinda stuck (financially) on my kit. I already have my tail kit
complete. I ordered the DVD "Scratch Building Basics for Metal Aircraft"
last week but haven't received it yet. I was looking on aircraft spruce for
pricing on 6061T6 aluminum. Is there a list published somewhere with the
quantity and size of materials needed to scratch build? I have also seen a
few pictures on builders web pages with full size drawings of templates and
aluminum pieces to aid in cutting them out. Where did you get those?
Maybe a scratch build newbie convert,
John Hines
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