Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:08 AM - Re: Picking up kits from factory (Afterfxllc@aol.com)
2. 05:20 AM - Re: Lost Canopy (Kevin Kinney)
3. 05:20 AM - Re: Picking up kits from factory (Noel Loveys)
4. 05:26 AM - To slosh or not to slosh (Geoff Heap)
5. 05:33 AM - Olfa P800 (martyn@flight.co.za)
6. 05:33 AM - 912 part request (Trevor Page)
7. 05:40 AM - Re: Picking up kits from factory (Robin Bellach)
8. 05:44 AM - Re: Picking up kits from factory (Bryan Martin)
9. 06:00 AM - Re: Bad luck (Michial Pedri)
10. 06:08 AM - Slosh (Zed Smith)
11. 06:09 AM - 601xl quick build kit (Michial Pedri)
12. 07:04 AM - Re: Olfa P800 (Geoff Heap)
13. 07:08 AM - Re: Slosh (Geoff Heap)
14. 07:12 AM - Re: To slosh or not to slosh (LarryMcFarland)
15. 07:18 AM - Re: Re: Lost Canopy (JOHN STARN)
16. 07:34 AM - Re: 601xl quick build kit ()
17. 07:44 AM - Re: 912 part request ()
18. 08:16 AM - Re: Re: Slosh (Bryan Martin)
19. 08:24 AM - Re: One last reality check (ken smith)
20. 08:42 AM - Re: Olfa P800 (Craig Payne)
21. 08:59 AM - Re: One last reality check (Craig Payne)
22. 09:00 AM - Re: Am I borked? (John Marzulli)
23. 09:48 AM - Re: Picking up kits from factory (LHusky@aol.com)
24. 09:56 AM - Re: 601xl quick build kit (LHusky@aol.com)
25. 10:58 AM - Re: Re: Slosh (Noel Loveys)
26. 11:33 AM - fuel tank alternatives (Dave and Jan Clay)
27. 12:12 PM - Re: fuel tank alternatives (Christopher Smith)
28. 12:12 PM - Re: fuel tank alternatives (Keith Ashcraft)
29. 12:12 PM - Gull wing doors vs bubble (Big Gee)
30. 12:24 PM - Re: Re: Lost canopy (John Anderson)
31. 12:29 PM - Jab 3300 Oil (JAPhillipsGA@aol.com)
32. 12:29 PM - Re: fuel tank alternatives (Craig Payne)
33. 12:34 PM - 601XL Wheel Pants (JAPhillipsGA@aol.com)
34. 01:06 PM - Re: fuel tank alternatives (Craig Moore)
35. 03:33 PM - Export to canada (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
36. 04:20 PM - Re: Export to canada (Dave)
37. 04:22 PM - Re: Export to canada (Dave)
38. 04:33 PM - Paint overspary (=?ISO-8859-1?Q?J=F3hann_Gestur?=)
39. 05:14 PM - Re: Paint overspary ()
40. 05:29 PM - Re: Paint overspary (LarryMcFarland)
41. 05:53 PM - Re: Paint overspary (Dave Ruddiman)
42. 05:54 PM - Re: Paint overspary (Paul Mulwitz)
43. 05:55 PM - Re: Paint overspary (Dave Ruddiman)
44. 06:35 PM - Re: ARLINGTON (Dave Ruddiman)
45. 07:04 PM - Re: Jab 3300 Oil (Tim Juhl)
46. 07:13 PM - Re: Gas Cap Troubles (lynn dingfelder)
47. 07:51 PM - Re: Paint overspary (Larry)
48. 08:03 PM - COPA Convention/Aviation Expo? (Michel Therrien)
49. 08:20 PM - Re: Paint overspary (Dave Ruddiman)
50. 08:43 PM - Re: Aluminum Order?? (Paul Mulwitz)
51. 08:43 PM - Re: One last reality check (Larry Winger)
52. 08:43 PM - Re: To slosh or not to slosh (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
53. 08:43 PM - Re: Jab 3300 Oil (crvsecretary@aol.com)
54. 08:43 PM - Re: More dimensions (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
55. 08:44 PM - 601 dimensions (Zed Smith)
56. 08:44 PM - Re: Picking up kits from factory (Josh)
57. 08:44 PM - Re: Export to canada (Craig Payne)
58. 08:44 PM - Distance between main and nose gear on 601 (George Swinford)
59. 08:46 PM - Plastic fuel tanks (Zed Smith)
60. 08:47 PM - More On Gas Cap (Michael Valentine)
61. 08:47 PM - Re: Export to canada (LarryMcFarland)
62. 08:47 PM - Re: Paint overspary (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
63. 08:54 PM - Re: COPA Convention/Aviation Expo? (Trevor Page)
64. 09:08 PM - Re: Export to canada (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
65. 09:08 PM - Re: fuel tank alternatives (Christopher Smith)
66. 09:15 PM - Re: To slosh or not to slosh (Afterfxllc@aol.com)
67. 09:16 PM - Re: Aluminum Order?? (Paul Mulwitz)
68. 09:27 PM - Re: Export to canada (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
69. 09:31 PM - Airplanes in trailers . . . did I miss something important? (Paul Mulwitz)
70. 09:40 PM - Re: Re: Jab 3300 Oil (JAPhillipsGA@aol.com)
71. 09:40 PM - Re: Paint overspary (Dave Ruddiman)
72. 09:40 PM - Re: Paint overspary (Graham Kirby)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Picking up kits from factory |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Afterfxllc@aol.com
I picked up my kit un crated and it fit in a 12' u haul trailor. Why spend
the money on crating if you are picking it up?
Jeff
Message 2
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: Kevin Kinney <kkinney@fuse.net>
A few years ago, I flew in Leo Corbalis' (Requisat am pace) HDS. He encountered
the same problem with his aircraft deciding to be a convertible.
If I recall, he made some simple nylon latches that provided some extra protection.
I'm far, far away from my pictures at the moment. Let me know if anyone
would like to see them.
Regards,
Kevin Kinney
Message 3
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| Subject: | Picking up kits from factory |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Noel Loveys" <noelloveys@yahoo.ca>
Buy a used trailer similar to a ski doo trailer or a double skidoo trailer.
Sell the trailer when you get home or modify it with a platform to tow your
completed plane.
I tow a double skidoo trailer with 560# of float equipped plane on a regular
basis with a Subaru Imprezza Outback .... No problems. Due to the design of
the plane I tow I have to keep the speed a little on the low side.
Two important things to consider when towing a trailer are; to make sure
the trailer can take the load and the load is balanced to give the correct
load on the hitch.
Noel
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Josh
> Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2006 2:00 AM
> To: zenith-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Zenith-List: Picking up kits from factory
>
>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Josh" <dvoverdt@hotmail.com>
>
> I have been working on my 601xl for about 2 years now and
> buying the component kits as fast as I can save the money. A
> few weeks ago I put down a deposit on the rest of the 601xl
> airframe (fuselage, gear, control and canopy kits) and I am
> planning on picking it up in a couple of weeks.
>
> My question is what is the smallest enclosed trailer I can
> rent to transport these kits? I will be pulling the trailer
> to Arizona with a Toyota Camry so I would prefer to use the
> smallest trailer possible. The sizes from Uhaul are 5x10, 5x8, 4x8.
>
> I contacted the factory and they said the fuselage crate is
> 10 ft long. Looking at the plans the only pieces I see that
> are 10 ft are the flat skins, unless I missed something???
> Can the flat skins be bent to fit in a smaller trailer or
> rolled? Any recommendations would be appreciated.
>
> I have been reading this list for a couple of years and I
> wanted to thank all those who have gone before in the great
> airplane building endeavor. I have been saved many times by
> comments on this list and the excellent builder websites
>
> Thanks,
> Josh Kirk
> Working on Wings
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | To slosh or not to slosh |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Geoff Heap" <stol10@comcast.net>
Hey Guys.
Can someone please give me the 10 cent tour on sloshing. I'm getting ready to install
my header tank and i could use some advice on what is best to clean the
inside with, and then. Is sloshing always to be done on alum tanks? Whats the
rule here?
I'm thinking that it will help with possible pinholes resulting from welding. I
HAVE pressure tested my tank and it held for 30 minutes at least but there could
be a pinhole waiting to rear its ugly head in service ............Thanks...Geoff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=41761#41761
Message 5
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: martyn@flight.co.za
Hello All,
Your poorer cousin here from Deepest Darkest Southern Africa. Unfortunatly
the Trade winds don't blow this way to often and it's been a while since
our ports have seen a Merchant vessel from your fair country (USA/
Europe?)
So I'm sending a message to you all via Jungle drums, hoping that someone
will here my cry for a few Olfa P800 cutters and spare blades. I suggest
before embarking on this journey of mercy, that you stock up on Mosquito
repelant, pack plenty of Ankle high socks and remember to bring the Lee
Remington (comes in handy for those Pesky Pachiderms!)
You'd think with this new fangled thing called Internet, that we'd be able
to get them delivered to us!!! But that seems not to be the case!
Regards
Frustrated
Message 6
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| Subject: | 912 part request |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Trevor Page <webmaster@upac.ca>
HI folks, just putting out the feelers if you have or know anyone
with Rotax 912 parts. My engine is an older model and I'd like to
retrofit it with the new collector/expansion coolant tank (the black
one). The strange contraption on mine is the source of my coolant
leak and no amount of tinkering can seem to get rid of an annoying leak.
Anyone have a lead of used parts since new Rotax ones are so dear?
Thanks in advance.
Trev Page
C-IDUS 601HD R912
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Picking up kits from factory |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Robin Bellach" <601zv@ritternet.com>
The canopy is rolled into a package just under six feet long and about twenty inches
in diameter.
----- Original Message -----
From: Tom and Bren Henderson
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2006 1:10 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Picking up kits from factory
I'm building from the 'basic kit' (flat sheets of aluminum), so I can't comment
on Zenith's crate size or packaging. I can tell you that the largest parts
in the fuse (which I've FINALLY almost completed!) are the side skins. They
roll quite nicely. I don't think you'd have any problems with a cargo van,
or even a large mini van with the seats folded down.
I'm actually fabricating two of every part in the kit to help a friend out
as he scratch builds a 601 as well. (CNC equipment is worth it's weight in
gold!) He's had no problem fitting everything for the tail and fuse in a Toyota
4-Runner with the seat folded down. I have yet to acquire the canopy, so maybe
it's large enough to warrant a 10' crate. I doubt it though.
Congrats on making the leap to the fuselage. There's nothing like having
a place to sit and make airplane noises to motivate a builder to finish. Happy
building!
Josh <dvoverdt@hotmail.com> wrote:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Josh"
I have been working on my 601xl for about 2 years now and buying the component
kits as fast as I can save the money. A few weeks ago I put down a deposit
on the rest of the 601xl airframe (fuselage, gear, control and canopy kits) and
I am planning on picking it up in a couple of weeks.
My question is what is the smallest enclosed trailer I can rent to transport
these kits? I will be pulling the trailer to Arizona with a Toyota Camry so
I would
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Picking up kits from factory |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Bryan Martin <bryanmmartin@comcast.net>
All of the flat skins can be rolled up in a compact coil so they
don't pose a problem. The fuselage longerons are composed of eight
pieces of either extruded or bent L angles that are about ten feet
long. These are the longest parts you'll have to deal with. The rear
segments are straight and the forward segments are curved in the
shape of the forward fuselage. If you are using an enclosed trailer,
these parts could be stowed diagonally across the trailer with one
end at say the lower left rear corner and the other in the upper
right front corner. This may allow you to use a trailer shorter than
ten feet ( I am assuming that you won't need the crate since you are
picking the parts up yourself. Other than that, the longest and
heaviest part I can think of is the main gear spring which you
shouldn't have any trouble stowing in any of the trailers you mentioned.
On Jun 20, 2006, at 12:30 AM, Josh wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Josh" <dvoverdt@hotmail.com>
>
> I have been working on my 601xl for about 2 years now and buying
> the component kits as fast as I can save the money. A few weeks
> ago I put down a deposit on the rest of the 601xl airframe
> (fuselage, gear, control and canopy kits) and I am planning on
> picking it up in a couple of weeks.
>
> My question is what is the smallest enclosed trailer I can rent to
> transport these kits? I will be pulling the trailer to Arizona
> with a Toyota Camry so I would prefer to use the smallest trailer
> possible. The sizes from Uhaul are 5x10, 5x8, 4x8.
>
>
> Thanks,
> Josh Kirk
> Working on Wings
>
>
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL, Stratus Subaru.
do not archive.
Message 9
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: Michial Pedri <pedfly60@yahoo.com>
not sure where you are from but just to let you know that I have been an AGR soldier
(active duty army national guard, WV) for 15 years and we are begging for
folks (prior service and non prior service) alike to join up. We offer 100%
paid college tuition, (Bachelor and Masters), 20K signing bonus for 6 year enlistment
or $7500 for 3 year enlistment. Not sure if this helps but just in case.
Sorry for the streatch of bad luck.
Take care, SSG Mike Pedri, 701 builder
Brandon Tucker <btucke73@yahoo.com> wrote:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Brandon Tucker
Gents,
First the motorcycle accident, then while working
on the plane, it fell off the jack stands, damaging an
aileron and destroying the elevator. -Anyway, here
goes a shot in the dark... If anyone has a 601
elevator laying around that you won't be using, please
reply off list.
For desert, I found out today that I am being
involuntarily separated from the Navy after 15 years.
What a freakin' week!
VR/
Brandon
Further from flying today than yesterday
__________________________________________________
---------------------------------
Message 10
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: Zed Smith <zsmith3rd@earthlink.net>
Geoff,
This may not be the method you want to use....
Add a bit of red food coloring to whatever you slosh.
The stuff is cheap, very concentrated, and will certainly show your pinholes.
Don't get it anywhere except in the tank....you'll have red fingers for a week.
Juat a suggestion,
Regards,
Zed
do not archive
Message 11
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| Subject: | 601xl quick build kit |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Michial Pedri <pedfly60@yahoo.com>
Just curious if anyone knows anyone who has purchased the quick build kit and started
building? I am very interested in the quick build kit and the difficulty
with construction as I am a first time builder with no prior building experience
of any kind.
Also has zenith mentioned offering a 701 quick build kit in the near future?
Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you, Mike Pedri, Beckley WV
---------------------------------
How low will we go? Check out Yahoo! Messengers low PC-to-Phone call rates.
Message 12
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Geoff Heap" <stol10@comcast.net>
Stop your whining and build something.
What's your question Martin. Are you looking for someone here on the list to help
out getting a couple of Olfa's? If so I'll Volunteer. Or are you just complaining.
Just kidding Martin. Do you need help?
Do not archive
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=41777#41777
Message 13
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Geoff Heap" <stol10@comcast.net>
Zed to the rescue. Thanks, I'll bear the food coloring in mind but what is it that
I slosh.Some kind of sealant? and is it NECCESARY or is it OPTIONAL. Again,
this is an alum tank.....Geoff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=41780#41780
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: To slosh or not to slosh |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: LarryMcFarland <larry@macsmachine.com>
Geoff,
The tank is likely not to have any pinholes if you lightly pressured the
tank and brushed bubble solution around the welded
joints. Sloshing a tank that is not part of the wing skins probably
would help you cleans the tank of debris, but I'd only do it
after the question of leakage, seepage and pinholes is certifiably
satisfied. A pinhole doesn't occur after welding. It's there and
you discover it in the process, weld it shut and look for more. The
average is likely half a dozen on first weld and you may find
more for a short while, but don't use water to flush or test for leaks.
Water will mess up your windings in the fuel sender and not
give you accurate readings later. I committed all these sins with
regret, new senders, etc.
Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
Geoff Heap wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Geoff Heap" <stol10@comcast.net>
>
>Hey Guys.
>Can someone please give me the 10 cent tour on sloshing. I'm getting ready to
install my header tank and i could use some advice on what is best to clean the
inside with, and then. Is sloshing always to be done on alum tanks? Whats the
rule here?
>I'm thinking that it will help with possible pinholes resulting from welding.
I HAVE pressure tested my tank and it held for 30 minutes at least but there could
be a pinhole waiting to rear its ugly head in service ............Thanks...Geoff
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=41761#41761
>
>
>
>
Message 15
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
Yes, a friend has a older factory built Zodiac 601 that lost it's canopy
about 3 mos. ago. He had taken off on 26, 2 left turns to downwind when it
left. He was able to regain control & land on 36 even though it was "closed"
for maintance work. He's ordered the replacement parts but would like to
install a more secure system of latching down the canopy. JACK
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2006 5:19 AM
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Kevin Kinney <kkinney@fuse.net>
>
> A few years ago, I flew in Leo Corbalis' (Requisat am pace) HDS. He
> encountered the same problem with his aircraft deciding to be a
> convertible.
> If I recall, he made some simple nylon latches that provided some extra
> protection. I'm far, far away from my pictures at the moment. Let me
> know if anyone would like to see them.
>
> Regards,
> Kevin Kinney
>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: 601xl quick build kit |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: <dredmoody@cox.net>
Hi Michial,
The benefit of buying the quickbuild kit mostly one of time versus cost. The
fact that you are a first time builder isn't a big deal at all. Chris Heintz
places a lot of emphasis on keeping the process and the resulting airplane safe
and uncomplicated.
There will be times when you need the advice of the list or the factory or both
to get you through an area in which the assembly instructions and/or the drawings
aren't clear to you whether it's a quickbuild or a standard kit. Looking
down that road from the starting line, it seems pretty intimidating, but it's
really just a long gradual process of being patient enough to study, ask questions
as needed and proceed carefully. You learn the necessary skills as you
go OJT. Unless the adjective "handy" doesn't apply to you at all, you'll do fine.
I'm a big fan of attending a rudder workshop at the factory. It would allow
you to meet the people you are placing a heap of faith in by building their kit.
It also would be a chance to get familiar with notations in the plans and learn
the basic processes that you willl follow over and over throughout the building
of your kit. It is also an opportunity to fly the demo planes if you are
interested in more than one particular model.
Don't let a lack of previous experience inhibit you from taking the plunge.
If you are green, you're still growing. Once you're ripe, you start to rot.
Ed Moody II
Rayne, LA
601XL / wings
---- Michial Pedri <pedfly60@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Just curious if anyone knows anyone who has purchased the quick build kit and
started building? I am very interested in the quick build kit and the difficulty
with construction as I am a first time builder with no prior building experience
of any kind.
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: 912 part request |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: <dredmoody@cox.net>
I just met a guy last evening who has bought three messed up Rotax engines that
were previously used on military RPVs. He is planning to cobble them together
into one usable engine for a 601XL in the future. Maybe you could do an internet
search for government surplus Rotax engines?
Ed Moody II
Rayne, LA
601XL / wings
---- Trevor Page <webmaster@upac.ca> wrote:
> HI folks, just putting out the feelers if you have or know anyone
> with Rotax 912 parts.
Message 18
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: Bryan Martin <bryanmmartin@comcast.net>
Sloshing compound should not be necessary in a welded aluminum tank
if the welds are any good. In fact, sloshing compound should be
avoided if at all possible. It's expensive, it adds weight, it's a
mess to work with and will possibly need to be redone after several
years in use.
If you think the welds might leak, seal up all the openings, put a
little bit of air pressure in the tank and use bubble solution to
look for leaks. If you find any, either reweld them or use some JB
Weld to seal them up. Don't use high pressure air to pressurize the
tank, you can easily destroy the tank. You can tie a balloon over one
of the tank openings and use enough pressure to inflate the balloon.
That will pretty much guarantee you won't over pressurize the tank
On Jun 20, 2006, at 10:08 AM, Geoff Heap wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Geoff Heap" <stol10@comcast.net>
>
> Zed to the rescue. Thanks, I'll bear the food coloring in mind but
> what is it that I slosh.Some kind of sealant? and is it NECCESARY
> or is it OPTIONAL. Again, this is an alum tank.....Geoff
>
>
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL, Stratus Subaru.
do not archive.
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Re: One last reality check |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: ken smith <lrepilot@yahoo.com>
there is one available for rent at Torrance (ZMP)
phone 800-971-8710
--- Larry Winger <larrywinger@gmail.com> wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Larry Winger"
> <larrywinger@gmail.com>
>
> After many months of investigating my homebuilt
> options, I have settled on
> the 601XL -- subject to one last reality check.
>
> Because I am 6'6" talI, I have two specific
> questions:
>
> 1) Are there any builders within 400 miles of LA
> who have a completed
> fuselage and canopy that I could try on for size?
> That would satisfy my
> need to sit in the plane as it was designed.
>
> 2) If I need to squeeze out some additional leg
> room (and possibly head
> room), are there any reasonably simple modifications
> that can increase those
> two dimensions without negative consequences
> (safety, aerodynamics, etc.)?
> I intend to build from scratch with a Corvair
> engine.
>
> This appears to be a great list. Thanks in advance
> for the responses.
>
> Larry Winger
> larrywinger@gmail.com
> Tustin, CA
> N53VP
> WW Conversion Manual enroute.
> Ready to send my check to ZAC
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List
>
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
Message 20
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Craig Payne" <craig@craigandjean.com>
This site carries the p-800 knife and blades and ships internationally:
www.dickblick.com/zz574/77/
-- Craig
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
martyn@flight.co.za
Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2006 6:27 AM
--> Zenith-List message posted by: martyn@flight.co.za
Hello All,
Your poorer cousin here from Deepest Darkest Southern Africa. Unfortunatly
the Trade winds don't blow this way to often and it's been a while since our
ports have seen a Merchant vessel from your fair country (USA/
Europe?)
So I'm sending a message to you all via Jungle drums, hoping that someone
will here my cry for a few Olfa P800 cutters and spare blades. I suggest
before embarking on this journey of mercy, that you stock up on Mosquito
repelant, pack plenty of Ankle high socks and remember to bring the Lee
Remington (comes in handy for those Pesky Pachiderms!)
You'd think with this new fangled thing called Internet, that we'd be able
to get them delivered to us!!! But that seems not to be the case!
Regards
Frustrated
Message 21
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| Subject: | One last reality check |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Craig Payne" <craig@craigandjean.com>
Here is a little more information on the 601XL instructor in SoCal:
Jon Thornburgh
Jon@JonThornburgh.com
Cell Phone 800-971-8710
http://www.lasportplanes.com/13132.html
Warning: in my search for instruction in a 601XL I have found that many
schools are planning or advertising instruction in a 601XL but do not
actually have a plane yet. The only confirmed plane that I know of is Jim
Pellien's at Mid-Atlantic Sports Planes in Virginia. I would love to hear of
other confirmed sightings.
-- Craig
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Re: Am I borked? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "John Marzulli" <john.marzulli@gmail.com>
Thank you everyone for your advise.
I luckily just messed up the measurments, not the part. After careful
measurement with the piece clamped down more I realizes the piece was
shifting when I moved the square. Some holes did need to be widened just a
bit, but it shouldn't be an issue.
John in Seattle
http://701Builder.blogspot.com
On 6/19/06, John Marzulli <john.marzulli@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "John Marzulli" <
> john.marzulli@gmail.com>
>
> Concerning the 701 Elevator:
>
> When placing the rear spar ( 7h2-2 ) to 7h1-4 and and the other two ribs,
> is
> it more critical to insure the ribs are at a right angle to the rear spar,
> or that 7h2-2 is centered relative to the front spar ( 7h2-1 ).
>
> I already drilled one of the full length ribs so it is flush to the rear
> spar doublers ( next to, not overlapping ), and everything is at a right
> angle, but I noticed that one of the clamps on the other rib slipped and
> now
> the other rib is about 10mm off from the doubler when at a right angle to
> the rear rib.
>
> Moving the rib that I already drilled 5mm doesn't seem like an option
> since
> the holes and rivets would be very close.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
>
> Thanks
> --
> John in Seattle
> http://701Builder.blogspot.com/
>
>
--
John Marzulli
http://701Builder.blogspot.com/
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Re: Picking up kits from factory |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: LHusky@aol.com
If you want a picture of everything in the kit before it is in the crate,
email me off line. I just came back from the factory a few weeks ago and took
a picture of a kit that someone was coming to pick up without a crate. As
far as the side skins go, I have rolled them up and taped them to save space.
They have stayed rolled for some time and when I removed the tape and layed
them flat, they were perfectly flat, so don't be afraid to roll the sheets up.
Just be carefull when unrolling them. I was putting everything in a
4Runner, but have since bought a small pickup for hauling things the right way.
Email me for the picture if you want it.
Larry Husky
Building rear fuse!
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Re: 601xl quick build kit |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: LHusky@aol.com
I agree with Ed. I had 0 experience with any kind of metal before I started
and I have found this to be pretty easy so far. I have the complete bottom
fuse from tail to firewall and it looks great. I am scratch building, so it
is harder than a kit, but the results are great. It can be a little
intimidating when you make the first few holes, but after that, it is smooth sailing.
I have had to make a part or two twice, but that is part of learning. I
would say just go and do it. There is plenty of help out there if you need it
and the factory support is great also.
Larry
Message 25
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Noel Loveys" <noelloveys@yahoo.ca>
Ingenious use of a balloon. I like that one. It could be used to pressure
test heat muffs too.
Noel
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Bryan Martin
> Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2006 12:43 PM
> To: zenith-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Re: Slosh
>
>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Bryan Martin
> <bryanmmartin@comcast.net>
>
> Sloshing compound should not be necessary in a welded aluminum tank
> if the welds are any good. In fact, sloshing compound should be
> avoided if at all possible. It's expensive, it adds weight, it's a
> mess to work with and will possibly need to be redone after several
> years in use.
>
> If you think the welds might leak, seal up all the openings, put a
> little bit of air pressure in the tank and use bubble solution to
> look for leaks. If you find any, either reweld them or use some JB
> Weld to seal them up. Don't use high pressure air to pressurize the
> tank, you can easily destroy the tank. You can tie a balloon
> over one
> of the tank openings and use enough pressure to inflate the balloon.
> That will pretty much guarantee you won't over pressurize the tank
>
> On Jun 20, 2006, at 10:08 AM, Geoff Heap wrote:
>
> > --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Geoff Heap" <stol10@comcast.net>
> >
> > Zed to the rescue. Thanks, I'll bear the food coloring in mind but
> > what is it that I slosh.Some kind of sealant? and is it NECCESARY
> > or is it OPTIONAL. Again, this is an alum tank.....Geoff
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> Bryan Martin
> N61BM, CH 601 XL, Stratus Subaru.
> do not archive.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 26
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| Subject: | fuel tank alternatives |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave and Jan Clay" <dclaytx2@hotmail.com>
I just finished mowing my yard. While mowing I was contemplating the 601xl
fuel tank issue. I noticed my red plastic 5 gallon gas can I've had for many
years. It is still in perfect condition and has never sprung a leak despite
much abuse. After reading all of the horror stories posted here of welding
dificulties, messy Pro Seal, and random leaks I was wondering if anyone has
tried plastic fuel tanks or rubber fuel cells. I've seen ads in aviation
magazines for companies that make custom made fuel cells. How about it.
Anyone ever tried something other than aluminum?
Dave
Temple, TX
scratch building wings
_________________________________________________________________
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: fuel tank alternatives |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Christopher Smith" <ch601xl@gmail.com>
Too many static electricity issues.
On 6/20/06, Dave and Jan Clay <dclaytx2@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave and Jan Clay" <
> dclaytx2@hotmail.com>
>
> I just finished mowing my yard. While mowing I was contemplating the 601xl
> fuel tank issue. I noticed my red plastic 5 gallon gas can I've had for
> many
> years. It is still in perfect condition and has never sprung a leak
> despite
> much abuse. After reading all of the horror stories posted here of welding
> dificulties, messy Pro Seal, and random leaks I was wondering if anyone
> has
> tried plastic fuel tanks or rubber fuel cells. I've seen ads in aviation
> magazines for companies that make custom made fuel cells. How about it.
> Anyone ever tried something other than aluminum?
>
> Dave
> Temple, TX
> scratch building wings
>
> _________________________________________________________________
>
>
--
Christopher W. E. Smith
http://ch-601xl.com
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: fuel tank alternatives |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Keith Ashcraft <keith.ashcraft@itt.com>
Dave,
You might try looking at this CX4 that is being built.
http://ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/CX4/photos/view/6045?b=13
They are thinking of having an extra fuel tank with them.
Keith
CH701 -- 8% -- scratch
N 38.9947
W 105.1305
Alt. 9,000'
*****************************************************************************
Dave and Jan Clay wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave and Jan Clay"
> <dclaytx2@hotmail.com>
>
> I just finished mowing my yard. While mowing I was contemplating the
> 601xl fuel tank issue. I noticed my red plastic 5 gallon gas can I've
> had for many years. It is still in perfect condition and has never
> sprung a leak despite much abuse. After reading all of the horror
> stories posted here of welding dificulties, messy Pro Seal, and random
> leaks I was wondering if anyone has tried plastic fuel tanks or rubber
> fuel cells. I've seen ads in aviation magazines for companies that
> make custom made fuel cells. How about it. Anyone ever tried something
> other than aluminum?
>
> Dave
> Temple, TX
> scratch building wings
>
> _________________________________________________________________
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List
> http://wiki.matronics.com
>
>
--
*************************************
*Keith Ashcraft*
ITT Industries
Advanced Engineering & Sciences
5009 Centennial Blvd.
Colorado Springs, CO
80919
(719) 599-1787 -- work
(719) 332-4364 -- cell
keith.ashcraft@itt.com
************************************
This e-mail and any files transmitted with it are proprietary and intended solely
for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed. If you have
received this e-mail in error please notify the sender. Please note that any views
or opinions presented in this e-mail are solely those of the author and do not
necessarily represent those of ITT, Inc. The recipient should check
this e-mail and any attachments for the presence of viruses. ITT accepts
no liability for any damage caused by any virus transmitted by this e-mail.
************************************
Message 29
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| Subject: | Gull wing doors vs bubble |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Big Gee <taffy0687@yahoo.com>
Dave ---- I appreciate your inputs, but I feel this is an area that can be beat
to death------ same as: What model 601 do I build ??? This experimental
airplane building consist of a lot of learning curves. A lot of decisions which
have to be made, with a lot of them meaning making a compromise.
I have never liked the bubble canopy due to the fact it provides "no" roll over
protection.--- I would rather take my chances of being able to open one door
or the other.------ If I decide getting out might be a problem I'll install
a "canopy brake-out knife", similar to what was in the old F-100's. ( only a
lighter model)--------(F-100 Super Sabre, jet fighter about 1955 era) I will
admit, it is easy to "Monday morning quarterback" after an accident and say:
"Maybe he should have done something different"
The gentleman that was decapitated in Canada several years ago, while making
a "no canopy" landing and hit some power lines might still be alive today if
he had had a fixed windshield with the center bar like Cherokee's have. (please
correct me if I am wrong about this tragic accident.)
About my canopy design, I built a mock-up ( on the airplane from "junk aluminum")
than sat in the airplane and made the "proper adjustments" to what I wanted
in my airplane. I ended up: raising the height of the windshild frame -----1
1/2" from my orginial layout, making the sides of the windshield a little
straighter with less curve. My doors will look very similar to the doors on
the CH 2000. The height of the canopy frame, measured between the seats---
I kept the same as "the bubble". The aft canopy /roll over bar is angle
braced to the two tubes whichwhich meet at the top forward skin over the baggage
compartment. The aft skin will slant down at about a 40 degree angle with
a porthole window on each side.----------UGLY ?? probably to some, but it is
what I wanted.
My airplane is built to plans, so if anyone didn't like my canopy system they
could remove it and install the "bubble canopy".
Not wishing to start a firestorm--- but, just giving my opinion on the gullwing
doors vs. bubble canopy----------- "I yield the remainder of my time, Mr. Speaker"
Fritz ------- Corvair-----plans building----- 90/90
Dave <daberti@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
Fritz, I applaud your decision to build the gull wing canopy but a builder
in my EAA chapter put this setup on his 601HD...It was the worst thing I
ever tried to get into and out from.. And if there was ever a fire forget
about getting out. Now maybe your doors are longer than his were, and the
longer, the better, would be my take as based on his setup. Now if your
windows slide down into the fuselage like the Aerocoupe, I think it would
also work better.
Dave 601-HD 912ULS
...........3) scratch
> building allows you to design your own cockpit enclosure instead of using
> the "bubble canopy"------- I am going to use a fixed windshield, gull wing
> doors and rear window design as several other folks have done. ( I have
my
> canopy frame ready for welding)
> by opinion only
> Fritz -- Corvair, scratch building, 90/90
>
>
Attachment: http://www.matronics.com/enclosures/88711a3e96b4485d30ff6ecc9afffbb7cc2d048a.bmp
---------------------------------
Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls. Great rates starting
at 1/min.
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Lost canopy |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "John Anderson" <ande437@bellsouth.net>
Hi Tim,
Did not check mine according to the update. I think mine were a little
deeper on the notch with slightly steeper angle. They seemed to lock in
nicely with no slop. Was not really concerned with them.
CUL,
John 601HD waiting for front opening kit
Message 31
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: JAPhillipsGA@aol.com
Dear Thread Friends, I have been using Aeroshell 15-50 in my 3300 for the
last year. I see that Auto Zone sells Aeroshell W100 for about half what I pay
for 15-50 at the airport. Is one weight grade oil better for hot summer time
than the other ? Is there anything wrong with changing the weight from 15-50 to
the W100 ? Will it damage anything ? Best to you, Bill of Hot Georgia
Message 32
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| Subject: | fuel tank alternatives |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Craig Payne" <craig@craigandjean.com>
>> Too many static electricity issues.
That doesn't seem to bother the Sonex folks, different plastic?
www.sonexaircraft.com/kits/fueltank.html
-- Craig
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | 601XL Wheel Pants |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: JAPhillipsGA@aol.com
Dear Thread Friends, I understand that ZAC is going to adopt a different
wheel pants for the XL that is the same as the AMD pants. I really don't like the
old "wide body" ZAC pants I have now. Anybody out there using the AMD models
after using the old ZAC pants ? Was there any speed increase. To tell the truth
I didn't notice much difference with or without pants, but I am willing to
learn. Best regards, Bill of Georgia
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: fuel tank alternatives |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Craig Moore <moorecomp@yahoo.com>
Dave,
I don't know about the 601, but larry Martin sells (or
used to sell) fiberglass tanks for the 701.
http://www.skyhawg.com/701tanks.html
Best regards,
Craig Moore A&P
701 builder wannabe
--- Dave and Jan Clay <dclaytx2@hotmail.com> wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave and Jan
> Clay" <dclaytx2@hotmail.com>
>
> I just finished mowing my yard. While mowing I was
> contemplating the 601xl
> fuel tank issue. I noticed my red plastic 5 gallon
> gas can I've had for many
> years. It is still in perfect condition and has
> never sprung a leak despite
> much abuse. After reading all of the horror stories
> posted here of welding
> dificulties, messy Pro Seal, and random leaks I was
> wondering if anyone has
> tried plastic fuel tanks or rubber fuel cells. I've
> seen ads in aviation
> magazines for companies that make custom made fuel
> cells. How about it.
> Anyone ever tried something other than aluminum?
>
> Dave
> Temple, TX
> scratch building wings
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List
>
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
Message 35
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| Subject: | Export to canada |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
Hey guys,
I am about to sell my experimental 601 to a guy from Canada and he is
going to pick it up on a trailer and drive it back home.
I have to de-register the airplane from the FAA database...thats easy,
Trouble is there is a tiny reference to an "export airworthiness
certificate".
It doesn't say that I actually need one, or which authority requires it
and why. I called my local FSDO and they "wer'nt sure" either, but they
would have to inspect it to give me the certificate....Yikes!..... The
guy has left to go pick up his trailer to come down.
Does anyone know if I actually need this certificate and why?????
Thanks
Frank
Message 36
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|
| Subject: | Re: Export to canada |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave" <d.goddard@ns.sympatico.ca>
Take a picture of him with the trailer. I'm curious about what you can use
to move these. I wanted to and agreed to buy a CH-200 about 900 miles away
from here. Then I couldn't fly it here, or get it flown here. Trucking
companies showed me the door when I said "aircraft" and the rental companies
don't do "one way" except U-haul. I just gave up after having the owner on a
hook for four weeks.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2006 7:27 PM
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)"
> <frank.hinde@hp.com>
>
> Hey guys,
>
> I am about to sell my experimental 601 to a guy from Canada and he is
> going to pick it up on a trailer and drive it back home.
>
> I have to de-register the airplane from the FAA database...thats easy,
>
> Trouble is there is a tiny reference to an "export airworthiness
> certificate".
>
> It doesn't say that I actually need one, or which authority requires it
> and why. I called my local FSDO and they "wer'nt sure" either, but they
> would have to inspect it to give me the certificate....Yikes!..... The
> guy has left to go pick up his trailer to come down.
>
> Does anyone know if I actually need this certificate and why?????
>
> Thanks
>
> Frank
>
>
>
Message 37
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| Subject: | Re: Export to canada |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave" <d.goddard@ns.sympatico.ca>
I don't think you need to worry about it. This is a quote from the COPA site
about importing amateur built aircraft
===========================================================================
Importing an amateur-built aircraft was not possible until CAR
507 Appendix C came into effect in 2002. COPA's action on this issue was
instrumental in changing the rules so that amateur-builts can now be
imported from many other countries.
To import an amateur-built from another country you have two
ways of doing it (three in the case of lighter aircraft, under 1200 lbs, as
explained below).
The aircraft can be imported if:
If the aircraft is not complete and is in the "pre-cover stage" then
it can be imported and finished in Canada. For most aircraft that means
wing, fuselage and tail skins are not installed, so that it can have its
MD-RA pre-cover inspection done. It needs no permission to bring into Canada
at this stage, just import it (via trailer!) and then register it as a
project with MD-RA, finish it and have MD-RA do the pre-cover inspection,
when you are ready.
If it is finished and flying and has 100 hours total time on the
airframe then it can be imported as allowed in CAR 507 Appendix C, with only
an inspection of the finished aircraft when it comes into the country.
Currently MD-RA is not permitted to do this inspection so TC is doing them.
NOTE: If the aircraft is past the point in construction where the fabric and
wing skins are installed and does not yet have 100 hrs flying time on it
then it can't be imported as an amateur-built without taking it back to the
pre-close up stage.
In the case of an aircraft that has a stall speed of 39 knots (45
mph) or less and a gross weight under 1200 lbs, it can be imported at any
stage at all and registered as a basic ultralight in Canada with a C-I
registration. The main drawbacks to this category over the amateur-built
category are that basic ultralights cannot carry passengers and you must
wear a helmet when flying it. Consult the COPA Guide to Ultralights for
more information on this subject.
===========================================================================
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2006 7:27 PM
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)"
> <frank.hinde@hp.com>
>
> Hey guys,
>
> I am about to sell my experimental 601 to a guy from Canada and he is
> going to pick it up on a trailer and drive it back home.
>
> I have to de-register the airplane from the FAA database...thats easy,
>
> Trouble is there is a tiny reference to an "export airworthiness
> certificate".
>
> It doesn't say that I actually need one, or which authority requires it
> and why. I called my local FSDO and they "wer'nt sure" either, but they
> would have to inspect it to give me the certificate....Yikes!..... The
> guy has left to go pick up his trailer to come down.
>
> Does anyone know if I actually need this certificate and why?????
>
> Thanks
>
> Frank
>
>
>
Message 38
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: =?ISO-8859-1?Q?J=F3hann_Gestur?= <joeing701@internet.is>
Hello list members.
I have a question about over spray.
A hangar "buddy" was spraying his cowling in the HANGAR, without
realizing that the spray would get in the air and flow over all the
other planes in the hangar. duh. You will notice that I am not a happy
camper.
I had just completed building my Zenith 701 with an expensive paintwork.
Now I have a white rough coat on all the top surfaces on my newly
painted plane.
I have used white spirit, "goo gone" and waxed with carnauba car wax
with no result. There is a shine in the paint, but when you stroke the
surface, you will find the like sandy surface instead of the smooth
surface feel.
Does anyone have a solution or know of a material for this, other than
polishing compound.
I would like to eliminate scratching the fresh paint until it gets old
and beat up.
I appreciate any help.
Best wishes.
Johann G.
Iceland.
Joeing 701
Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: Paint overspary |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: <dredmoody@cox.net>
(A) Take out a life insurance policy on the "hangar buddy"
(B) Shoot the aforementioned buddy
(C) Use the insurance money to get the 701 repainted
(D) If there is enough money left over, send flowers to his family.
Ed
Do Not Archive
Do Not Paint in the Hangar
---- "Jhann Gestur" <joeing701@internet.is> wrote:
> A hangar "buddy" was spraying his cowling in the HANGAR, without
> realizing that the spray would get in the air and flow over all the
> other planes in the hangar. duh. You will notice that I am not a happy
> camper.
> Does anyone have a solution or know of a material for this, other than
> polishing compound.
Message 40
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|
| Subject: | Re: Paint overspary |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: LarryMcFarland <larry@macsmachine.com>
Johann,
You can remove the overspray easily with a Meguires polish and buffer,
or you can wet or dry at 1500 grit and polish
from there. Realizing .016 commands a much more delicate touch with a
buffer and even wet sanding at 2000 grit is going
to go slowly. The easier is first to go at it with 2000 wet or dry and
keep the paper wet so you don't load it up. A light buffer
after should cut and polish if you go very lightly at it. And then
there's always your insurance company.. :-)
Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
Jhann Gestur wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: =?ISO-8859-1?Q?J=F3hann_Gestur?=
> <joeing701@internet.is>
>
> Hello list members.
>
> I have a question about over spray.
> A hangar "buddy" was spraying his cowling in the HANGAR, without
> realizing that the spray would get in the air and flow over all the
> other planes in the hangar. duh. You will notice that I am not a
> happy camper.
> I had just completed building my Zenith 701 with an expensive
> paintwork. Now I have a white rough coat on all the top surfaces on my
> newly painted plane.
> I have used white spirit, "goo gone" and waxed with carnauba car wax
> with no result. There is a shine in the paint, but when you stroke the
> surface, you will find the like sandy surface instead of the smooth
> surface feel.
>
> Does anyone have a solution or know of a material for this, other than
> polishing compound.
> I would like to eliminate scratching the fresh paint until it gets old
> and beat up.
>
> I appreciate any help.
>
> Best wishes.
> Johann G.
> Iceland.
> Joeing 701
Message 41
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|
| Subject: | Re: Paint overspary |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave Ruddiman" <pacificpainting@comcast.net>
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2006 5:26 PM
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: LarryMcFarland <larry@macsmachine.com>
>
>
> Johann,
> You can remove the overspray easily with a Meguires polish and buffer, or
> you can wet or dry at 1500 grit and polish
> from there. Realizing .016 commands a much more delicate touch with a
> buffer and even wet sanding at 2000 grit is going
> to go slowly. The easier is first to go at it with 2000 wet or dry and
> keep the paper wet so you don't load it up. A light buffer
> after should cut and polish if you go very lightly at it. And then
> there's always your insurance company.. :-)
>
> Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
>
> Jhann Gestur wrote:
>
>> --> Zenith-List message posted by: =?ISO-8859-1?Q?J=F3hann_Gestur?=
>> <joeing701@internet.is>
>>
>> Hello list members.
>>
>> I have a question about over spray.
>> A hangar "buddy" was spraying his cowling in the HANGAR, without
>> realizing that the spray would get in the air and flow over all the other
>> planes in the hangar. duh. You will notice that I am not a happy camper.
>> I had just completed building my Zenith 701 with an expensive paintwork.
>> Now I have a white rough coat on all the top surfaces on my newly painted
>> plane.
>> I have used white spirit, "goo gone" and waxed with carnauba car wax with
>> no result. There is a shine in the paint, but when you stroke the
>> surface, you will find the like sandy surface instead of the smooth
>> surface feel.
>>
>> Does anyone have a solution or know of a material for this, other than
>> polishing compound.
>> I would like to eliminate scratching the fresh paint until it gets old
>> and beat up.
>>
>> I appreciate any help.
>>
>> Best wishes.
>> Johann G.
>> Iceland.
>> Joeing 701
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List
> http://wiki.matronics.com
>
>
>
Message 42
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| Subject: | Re: Paint overspary |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Paul Mulwitz <p.mulwitz@worldnet.att.net>
Hi Ed,
I got a good belly laugh from your post.
I considered telling this guy to try using a
major "Hot" solvent like Xylene to clean off the
new paint but decided against it. I might try
this, but there are serious risks of taking all
the paint off instead of just the new stuff and
also of turning yourself into a house plant if
you don't use proper breathing equipment with this poisonous stuff.
Have fun,
Paul
At 04:55 PM 6/20/2006, you wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: <dredmoody@cox.net>
>
>(A) Take out a life insurance policy on the "hangar buddy"
>(B) Shoot the aforementioned buddy
>(C) Use the insurance money to get the 701 repainted
>(D) If there is enough money left over, send flowers to his family.
>
>Ed
>Do Not Archive
>Do Not Paint in the Hangar
>
>---- "Jhann Gestur" <joeing701@internet.is> wrote:
> > A hangar "buddy" was spraying his cowling in the HANGAR, without
> > realizing that the spray would get in the air and flow over all the
> > other planes in the hangar. duh. You will notice that I am not a happy
> > camper.
> > Does anyone have a solution or know of a material for this, other than
> > polishing compound.
>
>
---------------------------------------------
Paul Mulwitz
32013 NE Dial Road
Camas, WA 98607
---------------------------------------------
Message 43
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| Subject: | Re: Paint overspary |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave Ruddiman" <pacificpainting@comcast.net>
I don't know if it will work or not, but you might try what detail shops
use. Go to an automotive paint store and ask them for some clay to remove
overspray. I'm not sure what you call it, but it looks and feels just like
modeling clay. It takes awhile but it might work and it's worth a shot.
Dave in Salem
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2006 5:26 PM
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: LarryMcFarland <larry@macsmachine.com>
>
>
> Johann,
> You can remove the overspray easily with a Meguires polish and buffer, or
> you can wet or dry at 1500 grit and polish
> from there. Realizing .016 commands a much more delicate touch with a
> buffer and even wet sanding at 2000 grit is going
> to go slowly. The easier is first to go at it with 2000 wet or dry and
> keep the paper wet so you don't load it up. A light buffer
> after should cut and polish if you go very lightly at it. And then
> there's always your insurance company.. :-)
>
> Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
>
> Jhann Gestur wrote:
>
>> --> Zenith-List message posted by: =?ISO-8859-1?Q?J=F3hann_Gestur?=
>> <joeing701@internet.is>
>>
>> Hello list members.
>>
>> I have a question about over spray.
>> A hangar "buddy" was spraying his cowling in the HANGAR, without
>> realizing that the spray would get in the air and flow over all the other
>> planes in the hangar. duh. You will notice that I am not a happy camper.
>> I had just completed building my Zenith 701 with an expensive paintwork.
>> Now I have a white rough coat on all the top surfaces on my newly painted
>> plane.
>> I have used white spirit, "goo gone" and waxed with carnauba car wax with
>> no result. There is a shine in the paint, but when you stroke the
>> surface, you will find the like sandy surface instead of the smooth
>> surface feel.
>>
>> Does anyone have a solution or know of a material for this, other than
>> polishing compound.
>> I would like to eliminate scratching the fresh paint until it gets old
>> and beat up.
>>
>> I appreciate any help.
>>
>> Best wishes.
>> Johann G.
>> Iceland.
>> Joeing 701
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List
> http://wiki.matronics.com
>
>
>
Message 44
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave Ruddiman" <pacificpainting@comcast.net>
It's probably politically incorrect, (all the fun stuff is), but there quite
possibly will be adult beverages involved.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 9:17 PM
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Zodie Rocket" <zodierocket@hsfx.ca>
>
> Ok group, so the Arlington Gathering is on Thursday at 5 pm. Check with
> the Zenith Booth for a location. But I think BG14 is looking good !!!
>
> Mark Townsend
> Can-Zac Aviation Ltd.
> HYPERLINK
> "mailto:president@can-zacaviation.com"president@can-zacaviation.com
> HYPERLINK "http://www.can-zacaviation.com/"www.can-zacaviation.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave
> Ruddiman
> Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2006 6:04 PM
>
> I just re-confirmed my space at Arlington. Space BG14, which is on
> the main walkway through the camping area. I will be in a Columbus motor
> home. Sort of dirty white color with blue stripes. I will be there on
> Thursday in the early afternoon. If anyone wants to stop by, please do.
> I hope it doesn't matter, but I'm building an 801.
>
> Dave in Salem
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
>
>
> --
>
>
>
Message 45
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| Subject: | Re: Jab 3300 Oil |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Tim Juhl" <juhl@avci.net>
I would suggest you find a shell distributor in your area where you can buy it
by the case. W100 is fine for summer temps but I would suggest the W100 plus,
which contains the same antiwear additives as the 15W50.
Here in Michigan I run the multigrade in the cool / cold weather but may just use
W100 + in the summer. You can mix different grades and makes of aviation
oil without worry.
Tim Juhl
--------
CFII
Champ L16A flying
Zodiac XL - Horiz. Stab. & Elev.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=41899#41899
Message 46
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| Subject: | Re: Gas Cap Troubles |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "lynn dingfelder" <ding@tbscc.com>
Michael,
I went through the exact same problem recently. The cap(s)
was not only too high, but also was warped way out of alignment from the
welding process. Here's how I fixed it.
1 - I reduced the cork to the minimum possible thickness on the
bottom, but gained very little.
2 - I used a mallet and hardwood block right on top of the filler
opening, focusing on the highest side, using a metal yardstick across the
opening and tank top to check progress. You have to hit it really hard, but
this is very effective. Neither of my tanks were damaged by this procedure.
I was able to align the filler well with the skin, and drop it
significantly.
3 - A little bit more recess was needed, so I filed and ground a
bevel in the opening that matched the angle of the outer cap piece, allowing
it to thread in deeper before bottoming. The threads take a bit of tender
loving care, and of course the tank interior needed a good vacuum job.
All of this only took about an hour for both tanks and solved
the problem, but it sure was hard to clobber my tanks like that!
Lynn
Corry,
PA
601XL
Message 47
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| Subject: | Re: Paint overspary |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Larry" <lrm01@centurytel.net>
I've been painting for 40 years plus and have had this problem many many
times. There are several different things you can try. I've had them all
work at different times, depending on what the overspray is and how long
it's been on. First try a paint-prep you can get at an auto parts that
handles paint, NAPA. Most of the time this works, you will have to wax
afterwards. Put some on a small spot, let it stand, then rub it off. If
that doesn't work, try a small spot with plain old rubbing compound, I've
had luck with that too. Your last hope would be 1000/1500 grit wet
sandpaper and buffing, . Now if the guy was spraying an epoxy or urethane,
you could be fried, especially if it's been on for a while and if it's on
fairly new paint. The overspray will kind of melt into uncured paint. I
don't like the sanding, it's hard work and will most likely take the paint
off the top of your rivets.
Probably number one will work best, take it easy and take your time.
Make you buddy do it, he should have known better.
Larry, N1345L, www.skyhawg.com
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2006 6:29 PM
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: =?ISO-8859-1?Q?J=F3hann_Gestur?
> <joeing701@internet.is>
>
> Hello list members.
>
> I have a question about over spray.
> A hangar "buddy" was spraying his cowling in the HANGAR, without realizing
> that the spray would get in the air and flow over all the other planes in
> the hangar. duh. You will notice that I am not a happy camper.
> I had just completed building my Zenith 701 with an expensive paintwork.
> Now I have a white rough coat on all the top surfaces on my newly painted
> plane.
> I have used white spirit, "goo gone" and waxed with carnauba car wax with
> no result. There is a shine in the paint, but when you stroke the surface,
> you will find the like sandy surface instead of the smooth surface feel.
>
> Does anyone have a solution or know of a material for this, other than
> polishing compound.
> I would like to eliminate scratching the fresh paint until it gets old and
> beat up.
>
> I appreciate any help.
>
> Best wishes.
> Johann G.
> Iceland.
> Joeing 701
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List
> http://wiki.matronics.com
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
>
>
Message 48
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| Subject: | COPA Convention/Aviation Expo? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Michel Therrien <mtherr@yahoo.com>
Anybody going to Oshawa this weekend? Some of us are
considering it. Final decision on Thursday evening.
:-)
Michel
do not archive
----------------------------
Michel Therrien CH601-HD, C-GZGQ
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/mthobby
http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
__________________________________________________
Message 49
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| Subject: | Re: Paint overspary |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave Ruddiman" <pacificpainting@comcast.net>
YEAH, WHAT HE SAID.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2006 7:47 PM
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Larry" <lrm01@centurytel.net>
>
> I've been painting for 40 years plus and have had this problem many many
> times. There are several different things you can try. I've had them
> all
> work at different times, depending on what the overspray is and how long
> it's been on. First try a paint-prep you can get at an auto parts that
> handles paint, NAPA. Most of the time this works, you will have to wax
> afterwards. Put some on a small spot, let it stand, then rub it off. If
> that doesn't work, try a small spot with plain old rubbing compound, I've
> had luck with that too. Your last hope would be 1000/1500 grit wet
> sandpaper and buffing, . Now if the guy was spraying an epoxy or
> urethane,
> you could be fried, especially if it's been on for a while and if it's on
> fairly new paint. The overspray will kind of melt into uncured paint. I
> don't like the sanding, it's hard work and will most likely take the paint
> off the top of your rivets.
>
> Probably number one will work best, take it easy and take your time.
>
> Make you buddy do it, he should have known better.
>
> Larry, N1345L, www.skyhawg.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2006 6:29 PM
>
>
>> --> Zenith-List message posted by: =?ISO-8859-1?Q?J=F3hann_Gestur?
>> <joeing701@internet.is>
>>
>> Hello list members.
>>
>> I have a question about over spray.
>> A hangar "buddy" was spraying his cowling in the HANGAR, without
>> realizing
>> that the spray would get in the air and flow over all the other planes in
>> the hangar. duh. You will notice that I am not a happy camper.
>> I had just completed building my Zenith 701 with an expensive paintwork.
>> Now I have a white rough coat on all the top surfaces on my newly painted
>> plane.
>> I have used white spirit, "goo gone" and waxed with carnauba car wax with
>> no result. There is a shine in the paint, but when you stroke the
>> surface,
>> you will find the like sandy surface instead of the smooth surface feel.
>>
>> Does anyone have a solution or know of a material for this, other than
>> polishing compound.
>> I would like to eliminate scratching the fresh paint until it gets old
>> and
>> beat up.
>>
>> I appreciate any help.
>>
>> Best wishes.
>> Johann G.
>> Iceland.
>> Joeing 701
>>
>>
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List
>> http://wiki.matronics.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> No virus found in this incoming message.
>>
>>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List
> http://wiki.matronics.com
>
>
>
Message 50
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| Subject: | Re: Aluminum Order?? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Paul Mulwitz <p.mulwitz@worldnet.att.net>
Hi Randy,
The drawings are NOT TO SCALE. That is emphasized many places in the
drawing package.
On my drawings (sheet 6W2 dated 12/04) the hinge size is set by the
bottom left corner of the drawing. It shows a minimum 45 mm
length. That means your aileron should be just fine.
Paul
XL Fuselage
do not archive
At 09:26 AM 6/19/2006, you wrote:
> I ended up with 45mm on the tip and 50mm on the root, hanging
> over for the flex hinge... I can only hope this will be enough
> material... Assuming the drawings are to scale,
Message 51
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|
| Subject: | Re: One last reality check |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Larry Winger" <larrywinger@gmail.com>
Fritz,
In looking at the Zenith DVD, it sure looked like Chris was fairly tall.
That's probably good news for guys like me.
My great hope is that I'll fit under the bubble canopy just fine. If not, I
may be contacting you for more info on your modification.
Thanks,
Larry
On 6/19/06, Big Gee <taffy0687@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Big Gee <taffy0687@yahoo.com>
>
> Larry
> For what it is worth--- 1) Chris Heintz is a fairly tall person---- and
> most designers tend to design around their needs. 2) He has a most forward
> position for the rudder pedals. ( he use to have 2 positions) 3) scratch
> building allows you to design your own cockpit enclosure instead of using
> the "bubble canopy"------- I am going to use a fixed windshield, gull wing
> doors and rear window design as several other folks have done. ( I have my
> canopy frame ready for welding)
> by opinion only
> Fritz -- Corvair, scratch building, 90/90
>
> Larry Winger <larrywinger@gmail.com> wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Larry Winger"
>
> After many months of investigating my homebuilt options, I have settled on
> the 601XL -- subject to one last reality check.
>
> Because I am 6'6" talI, I have two specific questions:
>
> 1) Are there any builders within 400 miles of LA who have a completed
> fuselage and canopy that I could try on for size? That would satisfy my
> need to sit in the plane as it was designed.
>
> 2) If I need to squeeze out some additional leg room (and possibly head
> room), are there any reasonably simple modifications that can increase
> those
> two dimensions without negative consequences (safety, aerodynamics, etc.)?
> I intend to build from scratch with a Corvair engine.
>
> This appears to be a great list. Thanks in advance for the responses.
>
> Larry Winger
> larrywinger@gmail.com
> Tustin, CA
> N53VP
> WW Conversion Manual enroute.
> Ready to send my check to ZAC
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> much more to come.
>
>
Message 52
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| Subject: | To slosh or not to slosh |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
Depends on how long you want to live?...Ok that's a bit harsh but I have
personally witnessed a plane crash due to sloshing...The sad part is I
warned the owner about it just before his first flight.
What can happen is the slosh makes like dangly boogers hanging down
inside the tank...which harden and after a whie break off and plug your
fuel strainer.
More risky on slender wing tanks where you can't see inside but even so
you need to be sure there are no danglies if you insist on using this
stuff.
Needless to say I would not recommend it
Frank
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Geoff Heap
Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2006 5:26 AM
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Geoff Heap" <stol10@comcast.net>
Hey Guys.
Can someone please give me the 10 cent tour on sloshing. I'm getting
ready to install my header tank and i could use some advice on what is
best to clean the inside with, and then. Is sloshing always to be done
on alum tanks? Whats the rule here?
I'm thinking that it will help with possible pinholes resulting from
welding. I HAVE pressure tested my tank and it held for 30 minutes at
least but there could be a pinhole waiting to rear its ugly head in
service ............Thanks...Geoff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=41761#41761
Message 53
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| Subject: | Re: Jab 3300 Oil |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: crvsecretary@aol.com
Hello Everyone:
Not to throw hot oil on this fire, but I thought SAE specifications regarding oil
"weight' and mineral (aviation) oil 'weight were two very different scales;
that is, SAE 60 and aviation oil 60 are very different.
True?
Tracy Smith
Naugatuck, CT
N458XL reserved
stuck forever on wings
definitely do not archive
-----Original Message-----
Sent: Tue, 20 Jun 2006 15:28:15 EDT
--> Zenith-List message posted by: JAPhillipsGA@aol.com
Dear Thread Friends, I have been using Aeroshell 15-50 in my 3300 for the
last year. I see that Auto Zone sells Aeroshell W100 for about half what I pay
for 15-50 at the airport. Is one weight grade oil better for hot summer time
than the other ? Is there anything wrong with changing the weight from 15-50 to
the W100 ? Will it damage anything ? Best to you, Bill of Hot Georgia
________________________________________________________________________
Message 54
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
Indeed it does!
Thanks Jim.
Frank
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Hoak
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 1:18 PM
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jim Hoak" <planejim@bellsouth.net>
Frank,
Per the distances obtained when doing the W & B for my 601HD, the
distance between the nose gear axle center and the main gear axle center
is 46 1/8".
Hope this helps.
Jim Hoak
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 1:28 PM
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)"
> <frank.hinde@hp.com>
>
> Hey guys,
>
> Anyone know the front to back dimension between the front and main
> wheels on a 601. Imagine a line connecting the two main axles...It
will
> be the dimension between the center of this line and the front wheel
> axle.
>
> My buyer wants to rent a trailer and this is going to be a critical
> dimension for him.
>
> Thanks a bunch
>
> Frank
> 601HDS 400 hours
>
>
>
Message 55
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: Zed Smith <zsmith3rd@earthlink.net>
Frank,
Don't know for sure about the 601, but the 701 info on ZAC website shows this measurement
for 701.
Possibly the 601 info pages show same for that aircraft.
Regards,
Zed
do not archive
Message 56
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| Subject: | Re: Picking up kits from factory |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Josh" <dvoverdt@hotmail.com>
I would like to thank everyone for the advice. I think I will plan on
getting a 5x8 trailer and I should have plenty of room if I angle the
longerons and roll the skins.
Being able to pick up airplane parts and visit the factory should make
driving from Arizona to Missouri and spending a week visiting in-laws barely
tolerable... By the way Zenith was great about letting me pick up the kits
I requested at short notice.
Thanks Again
Josh
Working on Wings
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2006 5:43 AM
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Bryan Martin <bryanmmartin@comcast.net>
>
> All of the flat skins can be rolled up in a compact coil so they
> don't pose a problem. The fuselage longerons are composed of eight
> pieces of either extruded or bent L angles that are about ten feet
> long. These are the longest parts you'll have to deal with. The rear
> segments are straight and the forward segments are curved in the
> shape of the forward fuselage. If you are using an enclosed trailer,
> these parts could be stowed diagonally across the trailer with one
> end at say the lower left rear corner and the other in the upper
> right front corner. This may allow you to use a trailer shorter than
> ten feet ( I am assuming that you won't need the crate since you are
> picking the parts up yourself. Other than that, the longest and
> heaviest part I can think of is the main gear spring which you
> shouldn't have any trouble stowing in any of the trailers you mentioned.
Message 57
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| Subject: | Export to canada |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Craig Payne" <craig@craigandjean.com>
Open utility trailers are amazingly cheap to buy (US$700 for a 6 by 8 ft).
Buy one, move the plane and sell the trailer if you don't think you will
ever move the plane in the future.
-- Craig
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave
Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2006 5:19 PM
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave" <d.goddard@ns.sympatico.ca>
Take a picture of him with the trailer. I'm curious about what you can use
to move these. I wanted to and agreed to buy a CH-200 about 900 miles away
from here. Then I couldn't fly it here, or get it flown here. Trucking
companies showed me the door when I said "aircraft" and the rental companies
don't do "one way" except U-haul. I just gave up after having the owner on a
hook for four weeks.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2006 7:27 PM
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)"
> <frank.hinde@hp.com>
>
> Hey guys,
>
> I am about to sell my experimental 601 to a guy from Canada and he is
> going to pick it up on a trailer and drive it back home.
>
> I have to de-register the airplane from the FAA database...thats easy,
>
> Trouble is there is a tiny reference to an "export airworthiness
> certificate".
>
> It doesn't say that I actually need one, or which authority requires it
> and why. I called my local FSDO and they "wer'nt sure" either, but they
> would have to inspect it to give me the certificate....Yikes!..... The
> guy has left to go pick up his trailer to come down.
>
> Does anyone know if I actually need this certificate and why?????
>
> Thanks
>
> Frank
>
>
>
Message 58
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| Subject: | Distance between main and nose gear on 601 |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "George Swinford" <grs-pms@comcast.net>
Frank (and anyone else with a need to know):
As measured on my 601, the distance from a line stretched between the main gear
axles to the center of the nose gear axle is 45 & 7/8 inches. Hope this is some
help.
George
Message 59
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| Subject: | Plastic fuel tanks |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Zed Smith <zsmith3rd@earthlink.net>
Dave!!
Great question....I have also wondered. Inquiring minds, etc
The firms that make containers such as you mention are many....problem is, how
does one assault the problem.
Some years ago I observed a rather large plant in Lincoln, Nebraska, that made
all sorts of "plastic" tanks for farm & ranch use, chemical containers, barrels
for acids, and so forth. This isn't the only manufacturer, but your post jogged
my memory. Must be dozens of places doing custom work for all sorts of applications.
Surely there is a Lister familiar with the process and materials.
In the case of the 701, a tank of the approximate same dimensions, even if it only
held nine gallons, might be nearly a stock item at one of these firms. Since
it would be molded it would likely have rounded corners, and possibly the wall
thickness might be optional.
Lots of the larger lawnmowers use non-metalic fuel tanks, likewise construction
machinery, welders, pumps, and somebody is making these tanks for the machinery
manufacturer.
Not sure what 'blow molding' involves, but it can't be rocket science.....the mold
itself might be the determining factor as to cheap tanks.
Somebody jump on this one......or start selling tanks. Another franchise opportunity.
You want cheese wit dat?
I'll be out a few days, can you come by and mow my yard? Feed the hangar cat while
you're there.
do not archive
Regards,
Zed
Message 60
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Listers, I am attaching a picture so that you can see what I am facing.
Phil and Ed - thank you for responding specifically. I have asked
more questions below. If anyone else has any more thoughts, I would
love to hear it.
___________
Phil Pyatt wrote:
My wife and I had to beat the welded colars down into the tank. Also
the colars were not square with the leading edge to begin with so we
also used some fairly high force to bend them so that the cap had even
gap distance all the way around the leading edge.
________________
Phil - as much as I like the sound of beating something right now, I'm
not sure I understand. Isn't the collar welded on? How can you beat
it farther down?
I certainly seem to be in the same position - it clearly needs to go
down and it is not flush with the shape of the skin.
_____________
Ed Moody wrote:
You most certainly can shim under the skin to push it up taught
under the filler flange. No matter how tight the skin feels to your
touch the geometry involved will allow you to use cork to lift the
skin to snug under the flange. Give it a try. I'm working on that same
issue right now.
______________
Ed - I don't think I understand your response either. It certainly
seems too tight to shim under the skin to raise it up. It is close
enough to the edge of the tank and the nearest rib that I can't
imagine it coming up this much. The skin was extremely tight to wrap
around the tank and it seems to be pretty set in its geometry (tight
from wrap around front of tank to tight against spar).
After looking at the picture, do you still think I can shim it?
Thanks for everyone's help.
Michael Valentine
Attachment: http://www.matronics.com/enclosures/3d068b3811e209be6858f3d22b39b68b5a1d87ae.JPG
Message 61
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| Subject: | Re: Export to canada |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: LarryMcFarland <larry@macsmachine.com>
Frank,
I'd make copies of your documents and take pictures 3-views and cockpit
making certain that the pictures
clearly include the N-numbers on your plane. Do not remove them unless
your local FAA inspector suggests
that they should be. Cert of Airworthiness, POH and all should be in
one of the pictures as well as the builders
plate. This way, you've covered all your bases. Call your local FBO on
the export airworthiness cert.
Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis) wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
>
> Hey guys,
>
>I am about to sell my experimental 601 to a guy from Canada and he is
>going to pick it up on a trailer and drive it back home.
>
>I have to de-register the airplane from the FAA database...thats easy,
>
>Trouble is there is a tiny reference to an "export airworthiness
>certificate".
>
>It doesn't say that I actually need one, or which authority requires it
>and why. I called my local FSDO and they "wer'nt sure" either, but they
>would have to inspect it to give me the certificate....Yikes!..... The
>guy has left to go pick up his trailer to come down.
>
>Does anyone know if I actually need this certificate and why?????
>
>Thanks
>
>Frank
>
>
>
>
Message 62
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
There is a product called "overspary clay"...Never used it but its supposed to
be magical.
Other than that your buddy (not) will likely be wet sanding it off and rebuffing...Not
the end of the world but not good either.
Frank
-----Original Message-----
Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2006 4:30 PM
--> Zenith-List message posted by: =?ISO-8859-1?Q?J=F3hann_Gestur?=
--> <joeing701@internet.is>
Hello list members.
I have a question about over spray.
A hangar "buddy" was spraying his cowling in the HANGAR, without realizing that
the spray would get in the air and flow over all the other planes in the hangar.
duh. You will notice that I am not a happy camper.
I had just completed building my Zenith 701 with an expensive paintwork.
Now I have a white rough coat on all the top surfaces on my newly painted plane.
I have used white spirit, "goo gone" and waxed with carnauba car wax with no result.
There is a shine in the paint, but when you stroke the surface, you will
find the like sandy surface instead of the smooth surface feel.
Does anyone have a solution or know of a material for this, other than polishing
compound.
I would like to eliminate scratching the fresh paint until it gets old and beat
up.
I appreciate any help.
Best wishes.
Johann G.
Iceland.
Joeing 701
Message 63
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| Subject: | Re: COPA Convention/Aviation Expo? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Trevor Page <webmaster@upac.ca>
I usually go every year to man the UPAC booth but this year I'm going
to sit it out. Too hot for me on that weekend. I was going to fly
down but I'm conducting some engine maintenance.
Trev Page
C-IDUS 601HD R912
do not archive
On Jun 20, 2006, at 11:00 PM, Michel Therrien wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Michel Therrien <mtherr@yahoo.com>
>
> Anybody going to Oshawa this weekend? Some of us are
> considering it. Final decision on Thursday evening.
> :-)
>
> Michel
> do not archive
>
> ----------------------------
> Michel Therrien CH601-HD, C-GZGQ
> http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
> http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/mthobby
> http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
>
> __________________________________________________
>
>
Message 64
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| Subject: | Export to canada |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
Just put it on a flatbed and haul it...As long as its strapped down its
just fine.
Frank
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave
Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2006 4:19 PM
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave" <d.goddard@ns.sympatico.ca>
Take a picture of him with the trailer. I'm curious about what you can
use to move these. I wanted to and agreed to buy a CH-200 about 900
miles away from here. Then I couldn't fly it here, or get it flown here.
Trucking companies showed me the door when I said "aircraft" and the
rental companies don't do "one way" except U-haul. I just gave up after
having the owner on a hook for four weeks.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2006 7:27 PM
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)"
> <frank.hinde@hp.com>
>
> Hey guys,
>
> I am about to sell my experimental 601 to a guy from Canada and he is
> going to pick it up on a trailer and drive it back home.
>
> I have to de-register the airplane from the FAA database...thats easy,
>
> Trouble is there is a tiny reference to an "export airworthiness
> certificate".
>
> It doesn't say that I actually need one, or which authority requires
it
> and why. I called my local FSDO and they "wer'nt sure" either, but
they
> would have to inspect it to give me the certificate....Yikes!..... The
> guy has left to go pick up his trailer to come down.
>
> Does anyone know if I actually need this certificate and why?????
>
> Thanks
>
> Frank
>
>
>
Message 65
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| Subject: | Re: fuel tank alternatives |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Christopher Smith" <ch601xl@gmail.com>
With plastic that is. Rubber would be fine.
On 6/20/06, Christopher Smith <ch601xl@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Too many static electricity issues.
>
>
> On 6/20/06, Dave and Jan Clay <dclaytx2@hotmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave and Jan Clay" <
> > dclaytx2@hotmail.com>
> >
> > I just finished mowing my yard. While mowing I was contemplating the
> > 601xl
> > fuel tank issue. I noticed my red plastic 5 gallon gas can I've had for
> > many
> > years. It is still in perfect condition and has never sprung a leak
> > despite
> > much abuse. After reading all of the horror stories posted here of
> > welding
> > dificulties, messy Pro Seal, and random leaks I was wondering if anyone
> > has
> > tried plastic fuel tanks or rubber fuel cells. I've seen ads in aviation
> > magazines for companies that make custom made fuel cells. How about it.
> > Anyone ever tried something other than aluminum?
> >
> > Dave
> > Temple, TX
> > scratch building wings
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> Christopher W. E. Smith
> http://ch-601xl.com
>
--
Christopher W. E. Smith
http://ch-601xl.com
Message 66
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| Subject: | Re: To slosh or not to slosh |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Afterfxllc@aol.com
I'm not sure if anyone covered this or not but Van's used to tell you to
slosh the tanks but not anymore.... I have seen that stuff flaking off in the
tank and I would never slosh a tank...if you use proseal properly it will make
the biggest mess in the world but not leak.
Jeff
601 xl hanging engine
Message 67
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| Subject: | Re: Aluminum Order?? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Paul Mulwitz <p.mulwitz@worldnet.att.net>
Changing the weight and balance of the ailerons might lead to flutter
problems. You don't want to experience that - it can be your last experience.
Paul
XL Fuselage
do not archive
At 08:59 AM 6/19/2006, you wrote:
>I can't image there would be any aerodynamic issues with a thicker
>material, although there may be, I'm not an expert in that field...
Message 68
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| Subject: | Export to canada |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
Thanks Dave.
I got corroborating infor my local FSDO...We're good to go!
Frank
-----Original Message-----
Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2006 4:14 PM
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave" <d.goddard@ns.sympatico.ca>
I don't think you need to worry about it. This is a quote from the COPA site about
importing amateur built aircraft ===========================================================================
Importing an amateur-built aircraft was not possible until CAR
507 Appendix C came into effect in 2002. COPA's action on this issue was instrumental
in changing the rules so that amateur-builts can now be imported from many
other countries.
To import an amateur-built from another country you have two ways of
doing it (three in the case of lighter aircraft, under 1200 lbs, as explained
below).
The aircraft can be imported if:
If the aircraft is not complete and is in the "pre-cover stage" then
it can be imported and finished in Canada. For most aircraft that means wing, fuselage
and tail skins are not installed, so that it can have its MD-RA pre-cover
inspection done. It needs no permission to bring into Canada at this stage,
just import it (via trailer!) and then register it as a project with MD-RA,
finish it and have MD-RA do the pre-cover inspection, when you are ready.
If it is finished and flying and has 100 hours total time on the
airframe then it can be imported as allowed in CAR 507 Appendix C, with only an
inspection of the finished aircraft when it comes into the country.
Currently MD-RA is not permitted to do this inspection so TC is doing them.
NOTE: If the aircraft is past the point in construction where the fabric and
wing skins are installed and does not yet have 100 hrs flying time on it
then it can't be imported as an amateur-built without taking it back to the
pre-close up stage.
In the case of an aircraft that has a stall speed of 39 knots (45
mph) or less and a gross weight under 1200 lbs, it can be imported at any
stage at all and registered as a basic ultralight in Canada with a C-I
registration. The main drawbacks to this category over the amateur-built
category are that basic ultralights cannot carry passengers and you must
wear a helmet when flying it. Consult the COPA Guide to Ultralights for
more information on this subject.
===========================================================================
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2006 7:27 PM
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)"
> <frank.hinde@hp.com>
>
> Hey guys,
>
> I am about to sell my experimental 601 to a guy from Canada and he is
> going to pick it up on a trailer and drive it back home.
>
> I have to de-register the airplane from the FAA database...thats easy,
>
> Trouble is there is a tiny reference to an "export airworthiness
> certificate".
>
> It doesn't say that I actually need one, or which authority requires it
> and why. I called my local FSDO and they "wer'nt sure" either, but they
> would have to inspect it to give me the certificate....Yikes!..... The
> guy has left to go pick up his trailer to come down.
>
> Does anyone know if I actually need this certificate and why?????
>
> Thanks
>
> Frank
>
>
>
Message 69
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|
| Subject: | Airplanes in trailers . . . did I miss something important? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Paul Mulwitz <p.mulwitz@worldnet.att.net>
I can't help but wondering why anyone would take a perfectly good
cross country airplane and put in a trailer to deliver it some distance away.
Why not fly it there?
Apparently there are good reasons not to fly the plane. There seem
to be lots of people and lots of different planes going through this
experience.
Still, I have to wonder. If someone wants a plane but is unwilling
to fly it home then what, exactly, do they plane to do with the plane
when they get it there?
Paul
XL Fuselage
do not archive
Message 70
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| Subject: | Re: Jab 3300 Oil |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: JAPhillipsGA@aol.com
Jim, thanks for the oil info. Don't remember if the jugs said "plus" or not.
Bill
do not archive
Message 71
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|
| Subject: | Re: Paint overspary |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave Ruddiman" <pacificpainting@comcast.net>
Depending on what type of paint is on your plane, you might be able to use
lacquer thinner. I have been a painting contractor forever and I have the
guys use lacquer thinner to get overspray off of the company trucks. It
cleans them up and doesn't hurt the original paint. If you used automotive
paint and it is cured it should work OK. If you aren't sure try a small spot
in an unobtrusive spot.
Dave in Salem
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2006 5:53 PM
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Paul Mulwitz
> <p.mulwitz@worldnet.att.net>
>
> Hi Ed,
>
> I got a good belly laugh from your post.
>
> I considered telling this guy to try using a major "Hot" solvent like
> Xylene to clean off the new paint but decided against it. I might try
> this, but there are serious risks of taking all the paint off instead of
> just the new stuff and also of turning yourself into a house plant if you
> don't use proper breathing equipment with this poisonous stuff.
>
> Have fun,
>
> Paul
>
>
> At 04:55 PM 6/20/2006, you wrote:
>>--> Zenith-List message posted by: <dredmoody@cox.net>
>>
>>(A) Take out a life insurance policy on the "hangar buddy"
>>(B) Shoot the aforementioned buddy
>>(C) Use the insurance money to get the 701 repainted
>>(D) If there is enough money left over, send flowers to his family.
>>
>>Ed
>>Do Not Archive
>>Do Not Paint in the Hangar
>>
>>---- "Jhann Gestur" <joeing701@internet.is> wrote:
>> > A hangar "buddy" was spraying his cowling in the HANGAR, without
>> > realizing that the spray would get in the air and flow over all the
>> > other planes in the hangar. duh. You will notice that I am not a happy
>> > camper.
>> > Does anyone have a solution or know of a material for this, other than
>> > polishing compound.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> ---------------------------------------------
> Paul Mulwitz
> 32013 NE Dial Road
> Camas, WA 98607
> ---------------------------------------------
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List
> http://wiki.matronics.com
>
>
>
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Graham Kirby" <gk@601hd.com>
Johann,
It's the raised rivet heads that'll be the challenge if you use wet&dry. I
certainly wouldn't have the patience to clean around every single one of
them.
If the paint chemistries are sufficiently different and you know their
compositions, I would expect that an industrial paint supplier could steer
you towards a specific solvent that will remove only the bad stuff. I am
sure you are not the first person to have this problem but you should try to
fix this as soon as possible. A while ago I oversprayed enamel over an
epoxy based paint. It was easy to remove the enamel with solvent until
about two days after the crime. After that the solvent had no effect.
Graham Kirby
601hd
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