Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:25 AM - Re: Lycoming Thunderbolt Engines (Afterfxllc@aol.com)
2. 05:20 AM - hoarding Corvairs (John Bolding)
3. 06:29 AM - Re: Lycoming Thunderbolt Engines (LarryMcFarland)
4. 06:34 AM - Sad day...Kind of (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
5. 06:48 AM - Re: Sad day...Kind of (crvsecretary@aol.com)
6. 07:33 AM - Re: Sad day...Kind of (Trainnut01@aol.com)
7. 07:41 AM - Re: Sad day...Kind of (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
8. 07:48 AM - Re: Lycoming Thunderbolt Engines (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
9. 08:05 AM - Re: Sad day...Kind of (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
10. 08:47 AM - Cheap metal bending brake that works (Dave and Jan Clay)
11. 09:29 AM - Re: Jab 3300 Oil (lgingell)
12. 10:42 AM - Re: Lycoming Thunderbolt Engines (Larry Landucci)
13. 10:49 AM - Alodine Removal from Skins (messydeer)
14. 12:04 PM - Re: Cheap metal bending brake that works (David Mikesell)
15. 12:04 PM - EGT Question (LHusky@aol.com)
16. 12:36 PM - Re: Alodine Removal from Skins ()
17. 01:28 PM - Re: Lycoming Thunderbolt Engines (Christopher Smith)
18. 01:37 PM - Re: EGT Question (Big Gee)
19. 02:13 PM - Firewall (kevinbonds@comcast.net)
20. 02:14 PM - Composite gear (kevinbonds@comcast.net)
21. 02:16 PM - Alodine Question (kevinbonds@comcast.net)
22. 02:24 PM - Re: EGT Question (Rick Lindstrom)
23. 02:26 PM - scratchbuilt aileron bellcrank (kevinbonds@comcast.net)
24. 02:38 PM - Re: Cheap metal bending brake that works (Hudsonmusic1@aol.com)
25. 03:46 PM - Re: Alodine Removal from Skins (messydeer)
26. 03:57 PM - Re: Cheap metal bending brake that works (Bill Bartlett)
27. 04:27 PM - Gettinnterested in the corvair (Hudsonmusic1@aol.com)
28. 04:36 PM - Top skin material substitution (Tom and Bren Henderson)
29. 04:38 PM - Re: Gettinnterested in the corvair (Tom and Bren Henderson)
30. 04:46 PM - Re: Cheap metal bending brake that works (David Mikesell)
31. 04:48 PM - Re: EGT Question (Phil Maxson)
32. 04:54 PM - Re: Gettinnterested in the corvair (Phil Maxson)
33. 04:57 PM - Re: Gettinnterested in the corvair (Craig Payne)
34. 04:59 PM - Re: Subject: 601XL Wheel Pants (Dave VanLanen)
35. 05:01 PM - On the roll (Bill Naumuk)
36. 05:02 PM - Re: Cheap metal bending brake that works (L. Kilburg)
37. 05:02 PM - Re: Gettinnterested in the corvair (Craig Payne)
38. 05:14 PM - Re: MASPL Demonstrator Aircraft For Sale - Save over $12,000 (Jim Pellien)
39. 05:26 PM - Re: Firewall (Long) (Gary Gower)
40. 05:59 PM - Re: More On Gas Cap (Robin Bellach)
41. 06:15 PM - Re: 601XL Wheel Pants Con't (JAPhillipsGA@aol.com)
42. 06:26 PM - Deep trouble!! (jsimons2)
43. 06:26 PM - Re: Finished with empanage ! (JAPhillipsGA@aol.com)
44. 06:43 PM - Re: Deep trouble!! (JAPhillipsGA@aol.com)
45. 06:45 PM - Re: Alodine Question (messydeer)
46. 06:48 PM - Re: Deep trouble!! (Randy Bryant)
47. 06:53 PM - Re: scratchbuilt aileron bellcrank (Big Gee)
48. 07:16 PM - Re: Deep trouble!! (Paul Mulwitz)
49. 07:16 PM - Re: Deep trouble!! (Gary Boothe)
50. 07:52 PM - Re: Deep trouble!! (Randy Bryant)
51. 08:05 PM - 601/ Stratus Engine Mount (George Swinford)
52. 08:31 PM - Re: Deep trouble!! for you jsimons (ROBERT SCEPPA)
53. 08:46 PM - Re: Re: Alodine Question (kevinbonds)
54. 08:55 PM - Re: scratchbuilt aileron bellcrank (kevinbonds)
55. 08:56 PM - Rivets: Update on where to buy (norriedh)
56. 09:04 PM - Re: Deep trouble!! (Steve Hulland)
57. 09:36 PM - Re: Rivets: Update on where to buy (David Mikesell)
58. 10:24 PM - Re: Alodine Question (messydeer)
59. 10:44 PM - Re: Deep trouble!! (Gary Gower)
60. 11:34 PM - Re: . Fuel gauge issue.. (n801bh@netzero.com)
61. 11:54 PM - Re: Deep trouble!! (LHusky@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Lycoming Thunderbolt Engines |
In a message dated 6/23/2006 4:58:27 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
pacificpainting@comcast.net writes:
I would also agree that the Subaru conversion guys have gotten way out of
line...when you can buy a stock Subaru engine brand new for 3,500.00 where is
all this extra cost coming from? I remember when they first came out they were
like 10 grand then every time I talked to them they upped the price. As far
as I'm concerned the corvair conversion is the way to go for LSA. But just
like all things that make this affordable someone will try and snatch up all
the engines they can then resell them for an arm and a leg.
Jeff
Message 2
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| Subject: | hoarding Corvairs |
----- . As far as I'm concerned the corvair conversion is the way to
go for LSA. But just like all things that make this affordable someone
will try and snatch up all the engines they can then resell them for an
arm and a leg.
Jeff
Yeah, would'nt you know it,that nasty thing called capitalism rears it
head again. LOW&SLOW John
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Lycoming Thunderbolt Engines |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: LarryMcFarland <larry@macsmachine.com>
Hi Guys,
As a Stratus Subaru owner, I couldn't agree more. The Lycs are just too
expensive to consider, but there are more engines
coming on line that are in the 100 to 120 hp arena. I've been reading
about the R3000 from Revmaster which is completely
new, not VW in Contact Magazine and it's 110 hp will be available at
less than $10K. For the 601 builders, auto conversions
are a way to go, not just another compromise.
http://www.revmasteraviation.com/products/under_development/index.htm
Lycoming prices will just bring these developments about quicker
Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
Afterfxllc@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 6/23/2006 4:58:27 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> pacificpainting@comcast.net writes:
>
> I would also agree that the Subaru conversion guys have gotten way
> out of line...when you can buy a stock Subaru engine brand new for
> 3,500.00 where is all this extra cost coming from? I remember when
> they first came out they were like 10 grand then every time I
> talked to them they upped the price. As far as I'm concerned the
> corvair conversion is the way to go for LSA. But just like all
> things that make this affordable someone will try and snatch up
> all the engines they can then resell them for an arm and a leg.
>
>
> Jeff
>
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Sad day...Kind of |
I just sold my HDS. After 400 hours and 7 years she is now on her way
Canada.
Its been a fun planee to own...Oh well life moves on...To an RV7a in my
case.
Cheers
Frank
________________________________
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Sad day...Kind of |
Congratulations Frank !!
Do you intend to remain active on this site? Your experiance is invaluable and
has been a benefit to all....
Tracy Smith
Naugatuck, CT
N458XL (reserved)
Working on wings
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
Sent: Fri, 23 Jun 2006 06:32:08 -0700
I just sold my HDS. After 400 hours and 7 years she is now on her way Canada.
Its been a fun planee to own...Oh well life moves on...To an RV7a in my case.
Cheers
Frank
________________________________________________________________________
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Sad day...Kind of |
Frank.
I sure hope you remain on the Zenith list for a while. If you leave it will
be a sad day for us all. As you say, life moves on. I just sold my RV7A and am
now building the wings for my new XL. I didn't make that decision, my
medical examiner made it for me. But I promise you, you will love the 7A.
Best wishes.
Carroll Jernigan
do not archive
Message 7
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| Subject: | Sad day...Kind of |
Well thanks Tracy,
I think I will hang around, happy to give back to so many that have
given to me.
Interesting day of mixed emotions
Frank
Empty hangar
Do not archive
________________________________
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
crvsecretary@aol.com
Sent: Friday, June 23, 2006 6:47 AM
Congratulations Frank !!
Do you intend to remain active on this site? Your experiance is
invaluable and has been a benefit to all....
Tracy Smith
Naugatuck, CT
N458XL (reserved)
Working on wings
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
Sent: Fri, 23 Jun 2006 06:32:08 -0700
I just sold my HDS. After 400 hours and 7 years she is now on her way
Canada.
Its been a fun planee to own...Oh well life moves on...To an RV7a in my
case.
Cheers
Frank
________________________________
________________________________
Message 8
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| Subject: | Lycoming Thunderbolt Engines |
Never underestimate the power of Volume when it comes to reducing price.
overal costs by 30%.
I heard somewhere tat GM makes more engines in one day than Lycoming
made in its entire lifetime (no facts just hearsay). You can see this
will have a dramatic effect on cost.
Of course an Eggenfelner Soob will have a rebuild cost way lower than a
IO360 clone.
Then again I hope to not wear out my new IO360 any time soon
either....:)
Frank
Do not archive
________________________________
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave
Ruddiman
Sent: Thursday, June 22, 2006 10:46 PM
Now, if someone would just come up with a reliable 180 HP engine that is
reliable and cost like a corvair. Even the Subaru conversions are more
than an experimental 180XP.
----- Original Message -----
From: paulrod36@msn.com
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, June 22, 2006 10:23 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Lycoming Thunderbolt Engines
I'm afarid I would have to agree. Nothing against Lycoming, I
flew behind an O-320 for 15 years, loving every minute of it, but a
major proportion of homebuilders are trying to avoid new-plane, and
certified-engine prices when we build. (It's analagous to hot rods.
When I was a kid, you built what you drove, and if a magazine wrote you
up, it was celebrating what you'd done with your own hands. Look at the
average street rod magazine now, and it's Joe Jones' masterpiece, with
engine by A, frame by B, upholstery by C, paint by D, and a celebration
of Jones' wallet.) My 6-cylinder Corvair conversion will run smoother
than a 4-cylinder Lycoming, and about $13,000 cheaper. If Lycoming and
Continental want to penetrate the homebuilt and LSA markets, they need
to fit our demographics, rather then expecting us to fit their price
lists. I have nothing against anybody wanting to fly Lycomings or
Continentals. It's chacon a son gout. I'd love to see them jump in, but
at price points reflective of the niche they want to fill. Come to think
of it, at the rate LSA is expanding, we are becoming a pretty
market-significant niche, at that.
On a related subject, I've always understood that certified
engines are costlier because of the hoops they have to jump through, and
the fact that nobody less than an A&P can wrench on them, and that
automotive engines, although they have just as many or more parts, built
to water-cooled tolerances, can cost way less out of the crate.
Wouldn't it be nice if one of the bigs offered a crate full of parts for
the homebuilder to assemble, as an experimental engine, at a comparable
price?
Paul Rodriguez
601XL/CORVAAAAIIR!
DO NOT ARCHIVE.
----- Original Message -----
From: Clyde Barcus <mailto:barcusc@comcast.net>
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, June 22, 2006 7:39 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Lycoming Thunderbolt Engines
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Clyde Barcus"
<barcusc@comcast.net>
Well said! If money was no object I would be flying a
new glass paneled
Grumman Tiger powered by Lycoming.
Clyde Barcus
601XL, Corvair Powered
Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, June 22, 2006 8:13 PM
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Afterfxllc@aol.com
>
> I to love aviation and have since I was a kid....But
the only way I'm
> going
> to get my bird in the air is to look else where for a
power plant. Sure I
> would love to hang a brand new Lycoming on the front
of my bird but then I
> would
> be just like everyone else that would love to fly but
can't afford to
> I'm
> sorry but my kit cost was 18,000.00 and with avionics
I'm at 24 or 25
> thousand.
> I am putting a corvair conversion in front of me for
another 3,00000. I
> think Lycoming should stick with certified aircraft or
bring us a truly
> experimental engine with a price tag to reflect the
same or I feel you
> will be left
> behind in this market, others are at least coming up
with alternatives
> Lycoming is just giving us more of the same in a
different colored box.
>
> FWIW
> Jeff
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
http://wiki.matronics==================
=====p;
sp; itle=http://www.matronics.com/contribution
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
o
ntribution
Message 9
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| Subject: | Sad day...Kind of |
I can hardly wait...:)
Thanks Carroll
Frank
Do not archive
________________________________
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Trainnut01@aol.com
Sent: Friday, June 23, 2006 7:30 AM
Frank.
I sure hope you remain on the Zenith list for a while. If you leave it
will be a sad day for us all. As you say, life moves on. I just sold my
RV7A and am now building the wings for my new XL. I didn't make that
decision, my medical examiner made it for me. But I promise you, you
will love the 7A.
Best wishes.
Carroll Jernigan
do not archive
Message 10
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| Subject: | Cheap metal bending brake that works |
If anyone needs an inexpensive bending brake that actually works go to the
CH601XL group on yahoo. I've posted plans for an all metal 8 foot brake that
requires no welding. It cost under $75 to build. And for all you critics
that say it can't work...I bent my flap and aileron skins and long "L"
angles and they all came out great. It does work and that's a fact.
I can also email the plans complete with color photos in Adobe PDF format.
The file is about 2.5 MB so make sure your email server will allow you to
receive files that large.
Dave
Temple, TX
scratch building 601XL
_________________________________________________________________
On the road to retirement? Check out MSN Life Events for advice on how to
get there! http://lifeevents.msn.com/category.aspx?cid=Retirement
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Jab 3300 Oil |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "lgingell" <lgingell@matrix-logic.com>
Here in Northern California, I've been using W100 winter and summer in my 3300.
I buy it by the case at a local distributor.
Winter temps go from the upper 40's to 111F for today's high ('its a dry heat!').
..lance @ 68CA
--------
Zodiac XL/Jab 3300
http://lancegingell.com/plane.asp
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=42577#42577
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Lycoming Thunderbolt Engines |
Regarding the statement "the fact that nobody less than an A&P can
wrench on them", which refers to certified engines is not a fact, but a
misconception.
Once a certified engine is installed in an experimental aircraft the
builder of the aircraft can service, overhaul, and do whatever he wants
with the engine, even though this may not be smart if he is not capable
of it.
Larry Landucci
Builder # 84865
N801LL
Message 13
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| Subject: | Alodine Removal from Skins |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "messydeer" <messydeer@yahoo.com>
Hey, guys!
I've alodined and zinc chromated a few interior parts and am about to alodine the
rudder interior. I plan on polishing the skins. I'm sure there will be some
or a lot of alodine on the exterior skin. Can this be easily removed by scotchbrite
or other polishing efforts.
Thanks,
Dan
--------
Dan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=42613#42613
Message 14
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| Subject: | Cheap metal bending brake that works |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "David Mikesell" <skyguynca@skyguynca.com>
Please email to me and thanks!!!
skyguynca@skyguynca.com
---- Original Message ----
>If anyone needs an inexpensive bending brake that actually works go
>to the
>CH601XL group on yahoo. I've posted plans for an all metal 8 foot
>brake that
>requires no welding. It cost under $75 to build. And for all you
>critics
>that say it can't work...I bent my flap and aileron skins and long
>"L"
>angles and they all came out great. It does work and that's a fact.
>
>
>I can also email the plans complete with color photos in Adobe PDF
>format.
>The file is about 2.5 MB so make sure your email server will allow
>you to
>receive files that large.
>
>
>Dave
>Temple, TX
>scratch building 601XL
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>On the road to retirement? Check out MSN Life Events for advice on
>how to
>get there! http://lifeevents.msn.com/category.aspx?cid=Retirement
Message 15
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|
I need a general concenses on EGT probes. I am putting a Corvair in my XL
and I am wondering if I should go with 6 EGT probes or just one on each
manifold? I belive 6 would give me better detection of a problem in a specific
cylinder, but one probe in the right place would also detect a problem on one
side of the engine. What do you think?
Larry Husky
601XL
Building fuse!!
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Alodine Removal from Skins |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: <dredmoody@cox.net>
OH NO!!! PLease not another round of SCotchbrite discussions!
Ed
Do Not Archive
Do Not Mention Scotchbrite Again
---- messydeer <messydeer@yahoo.com> wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "messydeer" <messydeer@yahoo.com>
>
> Hey, guys!
>
> I've alodined and zinc chromated a few interior parts and am about to alodine
the rudder interior. I plan on polishing the skins. I'm sure there will be some
or a lot of alodine on the exterior skin. Can this be easily removed by scotchbrite
or other polishing efforts.
>
> Thanks,
> Dan
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Lycoming Thunderbolt Engines |
apply. You are free to remove the engines data plate and replace it with one
of your own & then it will be experimental and you can "wrench on them".
On 6/23/06, Larry Landucci <lllanducci@tds.net> wrote:
>
> Regarding the statement "the fact that nobody less than an A&P can
> wrench on them", which refers to certified engines is not a fact, but a
> misconception.
> Once a certified engine is installed in an experimental aircraft the
> builder of the aircraft can service, overhaul, and do whatever he wants
> with the engine, even though this may not be smart if he is not capable
> of it.
>
> Larry Landucci
> Builder # 84865
> N801LL
>
--
Christopher W. E. Smith
fly1m1
http://ch-601xl.com
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: EGT Question |
WW has this answer in his archives-( he says in so many words: why have 6 when
a lot of production aircraft have none)-------- I'm going with one on each side.
Fritz--- Corvair, scratch builder, 90/90
do not archive
LHusky@aol.com wrote:
I need a general concenses on EGT probes. I am putting a Corvair in my XL
and I am wondering if I should go with 6 EGT probes or just one on each manifold?
I belive 6 would give me better detection of a problem in a specific cylinder,
but one probe in the right place would also detect a problem on one side
of the engine. What do you think?
Larry Husky
601XL
Building fuse!!
---------------------------------
Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail Beta.
Message 19
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: kevinbonds@comcast.net
Regarding plans building an XL, I am looking ahead trying to make some decisions.
Hope you guys and gals can help me out in hte next few emails (broken up to
make them more searchable). (1) Back many months ago I seem to remember some
talk about using thicker material for the firewall. For those of you flying,
has the 18 gauge steel for the firewall seemed sufficient? Noticed in the archives
one builder went with stainless steel. Is this a good idea? Stiffer? Better
heat resistance in a fire?
Kevin Bonds
http://home.comcast.net/~kevinbonds
Message 20
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: kevinbonds@comcast.net
I would like to use the AS composite gear legs. Anyone have info on the mods needed
for this? Drawings etc. Ive already fabbed my gear channel but have not
yet installed. Will it need modifying?
Kevin Bonds
http://home.comcast.net/~kevinbonds
Message 21
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| Subject: | Alodine Question |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: kevinbonds@comcast.net
I have alodined some of my parts with the gold colored alodine. After final rinsing
for several minutes I noticed that while drying them with a white cotton
rag, I get a tan/gold residue left behind on the white cotton i.e. the alodine
seems to come off. Surely it is not. Perhaps, just the dye? Is this normal?
Should I not wipe after drying?
Kevin Bonds
http://home.comcast.net/~kevinbonds
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: EGT Question |
Hi, Larry.
I, too, wanted to use 6 egt probes on the Corvair. But upon looking at
the exhaust manifold, there jus ain't enough room to do it properly with
the quick radius bend. So I'm settling for one on each side. So I'll
have dual CHT, and dual EGT. Should be enough.
Best,
Rick Lindstrom
LHusky@aol.com wrote:
> I need a general concenses on EGT probes. I am putting a Corvair in
> my XL and I am wondering if I should go with 6 EGT probes or just one
> on each manifold? I belive 6 would give me better detection of a
> problem in a specific cylinder, but one probe in the right place would
> also detect a problem on one side of the engine. What do you think?
>
> Larry Husky
> 601XL
> Building fuse!!
Message 23
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| Subject: | scratchbuilt aileron bellcrank |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: kevinbonds@comcast.net
Can someone send me a picture of one of the aileron bellcranks that will explain
the riveted spacer assembly on 6W10-1&2. The side view drawing of the spacer
and bellcrank showing countersunk rivets does not make sense to me. Looks like
both the shop-head and factory-head are both countersunk on each rivet. Is this
correct? How does one do this?
Kevin Bonds
http://home.comcast.net/~kevinbonds
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Cheap metal bending brake that works |
Could you send me a link to the bending brake? Thanks, Jeff Hudson
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Alodine Removal from Skins |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "messydeer" <messydeer@yahoo.com>
I was able to get ahold of a Henkel tech today. He said it would come off, but
suggested masking with aluminum tape, or with painters tape if I didn't (I don't)
have any. Said painters tape should work for the short time it's immersed.
Dan
--------
Dan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=42671#42671
Message 26
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| Subject: | Cheap metal bending brake that works |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bill Bartlett" <bbartlett5@satx.rr.com>
Dave, please send me the email file too!
Thanks,
Bill B bbartlett5@satx.rr.com
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave and
Jan Clay
Sent: Friday, June 23, 2006 10:45 AM
If anyone needs an inexpensive bending brake that actually works go to
the
CH601XL group on yahoo. I've posted plans for an all metal 8 foot brake
that
requires no welding. It cost under $75 to build. And for all you critics
that say it can't work...I bent my flap and aileron skins and long "L"
angles and they all came out great. It does work and that's a fact.
I can also email the plans complete with color photos in Adobe PDF
format.
The file is about 2.5 MB so make sure your email server will allow you
to
receive files that large.
Dave
Temple, TX
scratch building 601XL
_________________________________________________________________
On the road to retirement? Check out MSN Life Events for advice on how
to
get there! http://lifeevents.msn.com/category.aspx?cid=Retirement
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Gettinnterested in the corvair |
All this talk about the corvair has me thinking. But, I have a few questions
I hope you guys can answer; what is the useful load when using the corvair?
Can it still be a tri-gear? Which year or maodel numbers are best to use? How
many are now flying in the 601? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Jeff
Hudson
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Top skin material substitution |
I hate .016 aluminum. It dimples too easily, it's damned noisy, and our
CNC punches like to eat it for lunch. That being said, has anyone replaced the
Middle or Rear top skins (6-B-21-6 and 7 on the XL) with .025 aluminum? I understand
the weight issue, especially that far from the CG, but did anyone encounter
any other issues that might not be so readily apparent?
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Re: Gettinnterested in the corvair |
This should answer all your questions: http://www.flycorvair.com/601.html
Great engines if you're at all mechanically gifted.
Hudsonmusic1@aol.com wrote: All this talk about the corvair has me thinking.
But, I have a few questions I hope you guys can answer; what is the useful load
when using the corvair? Can it still be a tri-gear? Which year or maodel numbers
are best to use? How many are now flying in the 601? Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks, Jeff Hudson
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | Re: Cheap metal bending brake that works |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "David Mikesell" <skyguynca@skyguynca.com>
I got it from the xl group, thanks Dave
David Mikesell
23597 N. Hwy 99
Acampo, CA 95220
209-609-8774
skyguynca@skyguynca.com
www.skyguynca.com
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, June 23, 2006 3:55 PM
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bill Bartlett"
<bbartlett5@satx.rr.com>
>
> Dave, please send me the email file too!
>
> Thanks,
> Bill B bbartlett5@satx.rr.com
>
> Do not archive
>
> -----Original Message-----
> [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave and
> Jan Clay
> Sent: Friday, June 23, 2006 10:45 AM
>
>
> If anyone needs an inexpensive bending brake that actually works go to
> the
> CH601XL group on yahoo. I've posted plans for an all metal 8 foot brake
> that
> requires no welding. It cost under $75 to build. And for all you critics
>
> that say it can't work...I bent my flap and aileron skins and long "L"
> angles and they all came out great. It does work and that's a fact.
>
>
> I can also email the plans complete with color photos in Adobe PDF
> format.
> The file is about 2.5 MB so make sure your email server will allow you
> to
> receive files that large.
>
>
> Dave
> Temple, TX
> scratch building 601XL
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> On the road to retirement? Check out MSN Life Events for advice on how
> to
> get there! http://lifeevents.msn.com/category.aspx?cid=Retirement
>
>
Message 31
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|
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Phil Maxson" <pmaxpmax@hotmail.com>
My plane only has one EGT gauge. It is used primarily as a baseline for
leaning. I think many people go overboard when they are getting guages for
their engine. I didn't.
Phil Maxson
601XL/Corvair
Northwest New Jersey
>From: LHusky@aol.com
>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Zenith-List: EGT Question Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2006 15:03:29 EDT
>
>I need a general concenses on EGT probes. I am putting a Corvair in my XL
>and I am wondering if I should go with 6 EGT probes or just one on each
>manifold? I belive 6 would give me better detection of a problem in a
>specific
>cylinder, but one probe in the right place would also detect a problem on
>one
>side of the engine. What do you think?
>
>Larry Husky
>601XL
>Building fuse!!
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | Gettinnterested in the corvair |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Phil Maxson" <pmaxpmax@hotmail.com>
As someone else has pointed out, almost all of these questions have been
answered on William Wynne's web site: www.flycorvair.com
Also, my tri gear 601XL weighs 777 pounds empty, yeilding over 540 pounds of
useful load. It climbs very nicely a little over gross (don't ask me how I
know because it has never happend).
Phil Maxson
601XL/Corvair
Northwest New Jersey
>From: Hudsonmusic1@aol.com
>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Zenith-List: Gettinnterested in the corvair
>Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2006 19:09:35 EDT
>
>All this talk about the corvair has me thinking. But, I have a few
>questions
>I hope you guys can answer; what is the useful load when using the corvair?
>Can it still be a tri-gear? Which year or maodel numbers are best to use?
>How
>many are now flying in the 601? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Jeff
>Hudson
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | Gettinnterested in the corvair |
I'm not "gifted" (though some have called me "special") but I'm about to
start assembling my Corvair engine for the second time. The last engine I
worked on was a lawn mower engine in high school. So if I can do it so can
most others.
-- Craig
_____
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tom and Bren
Henderson
Sent: Friday, June 23, 2006 5:38 PM
This should answer all your questions: http://www.flycorvair.com/601.html
Great engines if you're at all mechanically gifted.
Hudsonmusic1@aol.com wrote:
All this talk about the corvair has me thinking. But, I have a few questions
I hope you guys can answer; what is the useful load when using the corvair?
Can it still be a tri-gear? Which year or maodel numbers are best to use?
How many are now flying in the 601? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks,
Jeff Hudson
Message 34
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|
| Subject: | Re: 601XL Wheel Pants |
I looked at the wheel pants on the AMD 601 XL at Oshkosh last year, and I
definitely think they look better than the ZAC wheel pants. However they
still appear to be larger than necessary, if you compare them to the wheel
pants on the RVs. I may be mistaken, but don't the RVs use the same size
main gear wheels as the XL? If so, why can't the XL use a smaller, more
proportional set of wheel pants like the RVs?
Dave Van Lanen
Madison - WI
601XL - stabilizer
Time: 12:34:21 PM PST US
--> Zenith-List message posted by: JAPhillipsGA@aol.com
Dear Thread Friends, I understand that ZAC is going to adopt a different
wheel pants for the XL that is the same as the AMD pants. I really don't
like the
old "wide body" ZAC pants I have now. Anybody out there using the AMD models
after using the old ZAC pants ? Was there any speed increase. To tell the
truth
I didn't notice much difference with or without pants, but I am willing to
learn. Best regards, Bill of Georgia
Message 35
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|
All-
Response has been positive to the questionnaire. No amendment
suggestions, and I already have a few completed ones in the bank. SA
would like to see 25 responses.
I admit, I have a personal reason for taking this project on. I
"Toughed it out" on my own for 1-1/2 years with no help because there
weren't any Zenith builders within a 50 mile radius until just recently.
My closest "Buddy" is building a different version, and he's "Only" an
hour away. I want the SA readers to know there is an alternative form of
help.
That said, I'll post the questionnaire once again. Everyone remains
anonymous unless you wish otherwise. Please respond off-list to save
space.
Thanks.
Bill
do not archive
QUESTIONNAIRE
SETTING THE STAGE
1. Were you aware of, and did you join a builder's list before you
made a final kit choice?
2. Did you post questions on the list re: your reservations
concerning a potential choice?
3. Did the responses (Assuming any) have a significant effect on
your final choice?
4. If "No" to the above, how long had you been building before
joining?
5. How long would it take to drive to the nearest local builder of
your kit brand and model?
6. How long would it take to drive to the nearest local builder of
your kit brand?
7. Was the lack of local builders the primary reason you joined a
list?
8. If "No" to any of the above, why did you join a list?
DAY TO DAY
1. How many days a week do you post to your list? (Do you feel
more of a need to be an active
contributor vs a passive member)
2. Are most of your posts re: specific technical
questions/answers, or are they more socially
and opinion oriented?
3. What is the percentage of answers/leads to technical questions
you get from your list as
opposed to other sources?
4. Do you find your participation in a list more satisfying from a
technical or social aspect?
CRUNCH TIME (This is the "Essay test" portion)
We've all been faced with major setbacks. No matter the
circumstances, the first
question is "How did that happen?" Answer as many times as you
like. Suggestions for
content are:
Did you know before you posted that you were the cause of the
problem? If you knew
you screwed up, did you post to "Admit your guilt and confess your
sins", getting the reinforcement
from other listers like, "Yeah, join the club", enabling you to go
on? Were you angry at yourself
or depressed? How long does it take you to get over the
anger/depression/indecision and back to work?
Did you post to determine where you screwed up? Was the list
instrumental in finding
the reason?
How do you feel about problems attributable to the kit
manufacturer?
BOTTOM LINE
1. Has membership to the list been worthwhile?
2. Has membership to the list provided enough support to salvage a
seemingly hopeless project?
3. Would you recommend membership in a list to a newbie?
Message 36
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|
| Subject: | Cheap metal bending brake that works |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "L. Kilburg" <lnk@iowatelecom.net>
Here too, please
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Bill Bartlett
> Sent: Friday, June 23, 2006 5:55 PM
> To: zenith-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Cheap metal bending brake that works
>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bill Bartlett"
> --> <bbartlett5@satx.rr.com>
>
> Dave, please send me the email file too!
>
> Thanks,
> Bill B bbartlett5@satx.rr.com
>
> Do not archive
>
> -----Original Message-----
> [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Dave and Jan Clay
> Sent: Friday, June 23, 2006 10:45 AM
>
>
> If anyone needs an inexpensive bending brake that actually
> works go to the CH601XL group on yahoo. I've posted plans for
> an all metal 8 foot brake that requires no welding. It cost
> under $75 to build. And for all you critics
>
> that say it can't work...I bent my flap and aileron skins and
> long "L"
> angles and they all came out great. It does work and that's a fact.
>
>
> I can also email the plans complete with color photos in
> Adobe PDF format.
> The file is about 2.5 MB so make sure your email server will
> allow you to receive files that large.
>
>
> Dave
> Temple, TX
> scratch building 601XL
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> On the road to retirement? Check out MSN Life Events for advice on how
> to
> get there! http://lifeevents.msn.com/category.aspx?cid=Retirement
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Date: 6/23/2006
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Date: 6/23/2006
>
>
--
Message 37
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|
| Subject: | Gettinnterested in the corvair |
Aside from William Wynne's web site also consider joining the e-mail list
about Corvair engines in aircraft:
http://mylist.net/listinfo/corvaircraft
And Mark Langford's web site about his Corvair-powered KR-2S is not to be
missed:
http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford
-- Craig
Message 38
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|
| Subject: | MASPL Demonstrator Aircraft For Sale - Save over $12,000 |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jim Pellien" <jim@pellien.com>
Mid-Atlantic Sports Planes is selling its 2005 Zenair 601XL SLSA
Demonstration and Training Aircraft (N601VA , highlighted in a number of
different aviation magazines and also in Popular Mechanics Magazine
in the April 2006 issue).
Save over $12,000 off the new price. N601VA has only been used for less
than 350 flight hours. Meticulously maintained and Inspected every 50
hours. Will deliver anyplace within 1000 miles of Washington, DC
for FREE. We will deliver anytime after our new airplane arrives on
May 29th. This aircraft, because it has been certified as an SLSA,
can be used for commercial flight training and commercial rentals.
EQUIPPED WITH:
Air Speed Indicator
Altimeter
Vertical Speed Indicator
Engine Instruments
Hobbs Meter
Dual control sticks with PTT and Electric Aileron and Elevator Trim
Aluminum HD Gear System with 5.00X5 wheels
Tinted Canopy with Lock
Dual Toe Brakes
Electric Flap Control
Electric Elevator Trim with Indicator (button control on stick)
Electric Aileron Trim with Indicator (button control on stick)
Cabin Heat
Two Color Paint Upgrade
Wing Lockers L+R wings
Vertical Card Compass Upgrade
Garmin GTX 327 Transponder (with AK-350 encoder & antenna)
Garmin GNC-250XL Communications and GPS
Intercom PS Engineering PM 1000
ELT AK 450
Strobe Lights
Navigation Lights
Landing Light
Lighted Panel
Cabin Cover
Leather Seats
Miniature Air Cooler
Regular Price: $91,506
Selling Price: $79,000
Call 703-313-4818 for further information or write to: jim@pellien.com
Jim Pellien
Mid-Atlantic Sports Planes
Sky Bryce Airport (VG18)
Basye, VA
www.MASPL.com
703-313-4818
Message 39
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|
| Subject: | Re: Firewall (Long) |
Hello Kevin,
I am the one that made a SS firewall for my 701. Will like to make a comment.
Hope it helps you and all the group.
The main reason I made the firewall out of Stainless Steel, was because my everyday
work is manufacturing and selling fast food carts and equipment, we work
a lot with diferent thickness of stainless, we have in our factory 5 TIG welders
and several brakes (up to 12') etc. So building the firewall from SS was
kind of a "trade mark" mostly, the galvanized steel one with the kit was out
of place here :-) , all our friends told us...
Following the advise from this great list, we Zinc Chromate well all the aluminum
that could touch the FW and put a drop of ZC in each rivet to prevent any
galvanic corrosion.
Yes, we have lots of experience with SS, mild steel and fiberglass, but was our
first aluminum airplane, so we were also another newbys in this list, thanking
all the advise from the group, I had the chance to read.
Now to your question. the 701 will fly and land in rought terrain OK without changing
the firewall with the kit.
The ZAC airplanes are a GREAT piece of Engineering. The final product of a real
genious, I am sure they cant be made more light and more strong that they are.
A local pilot got his 701 in a ditch at the end of his strip and I was surpriced
(sp?) how strong the plane is as factory built and how much punishment can
support with so little harm. The plane was easyly rebuilt with just a few parts
(front fork area) and the firewall was in very good shape, just needed a
little straightining and is now flying...
We are homebuilders, so if you want to make a SS FW, Ok just us harder to cut
and drill (yes we used more bits in the FW than in the hole airplane. Bending
the edge is a little harder also butnot much, just that SS has diferent "memory"
when doing the bending.
Remember also s omething I read from an experienced builder: Everything you change
from the plans, will add about 100 hrs to the final building process....
Happy building and also remember: The only good thing to add to an airplane is
lightness and simplicity...
Saludos
Gary Gower
Flying a 701 from Chapala, Mexico,
Building a 601 XL kit.
kevinbonds@comcast.net wrote: --> Zenith-List message posted by: kevinbonds@comcast.net
Regarding plans building an XL, I am looking ahead trying to make some decisions.
Hope you guys and gals can help me out in hte next few emails (broken up to
make them more searchable). (1) Back many months ago I seem to remember some
talk about using thicker material for the firewall. For those of you flying,
has the 18 gauge steel for the firewall seemed sufficient? Noticed in the archives
one builder went with stainless steel. Is this a good idea? Stiffer? Better
heat resistance in a fire?
Kevin Bonds
http://home.comcast.net/~kevinbonds
---------------------------------
Want to be your own boss? Learn how on Yahoo! Small Business.
Message 40
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|
| Subject: | Re: More On Gas Cap |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Robin Bellach" <601zv@ritternet.com>
I have the same problem with four of the ZAC 12-gal. tanks. I paid the high
ZAC price thinking at the time that at least the factory tanks would fit
right, but apparently that was falty reasoning. Seems to me that shimming
up the top skin is not practical and a smaller shim in/around/under the cap
makes more sense. The "hammer down" technique scares me, as I'm sure I would
pound too far in at least one area. So, when hammered down too far, how do
you pull back up?
Also, as an aside question regarding the fuel caps, has anyone contemplated
or accomplished rekeying the locks? Seems crude to me to have to deal with
four separate keys instead of one to fit all tanks.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2006 8:24 PM
> Listers, I am attaching a picture so that you can see what I am facing.
>
> Phil and Ed - thank you for responding specifically. I have asked
> more questions below. If anyone else has any more thoughts, I would
> love to hear it.
>
> ___________
> Phil Pyatt wrote:
>
> My wife and I had to beat the welded colars down into the tank. Also
> the colars were not square with the leading edge to begin with so we
> also used some fairly high force to bend them so that the cap had even
> gap distance all the way around the leading edge.
> ________________
>
> Phil - as much as I like the sound of beating something right now, I'm
> not sure I understand. Isn't the collar welded on? How can you beat
> it farther down?
>
> I certainly seem to be in the same position - it clearly needs to go
> down and it is not flush with the shape of the skin.
>
> _____________
> Ed Moody wrote:
>
> You most certainly can shim under the skin to push it up taught
> under the filler flange. No matter how tight the skin feels to your
> touch the geometry involved will allow you to use cork to lift the
> skin to snug under the flange. Give it a try. I'm working on that same
> issue right now.
> ______________
>
> Ed - I don't think I understand your response either. It certainly
> seems too tight to shim under the skin to raise it up. It is close
> enough to the edge of the tank and the nearest rib that I can't
> imagine it coming up this much. The skin was extremely tight to wrap
> around the tank and it seems to be pretty set in its geometry (tight
> from wrap around front of tank to tight against spar).
>
> After looking at the picture, do you still think I can shim it?
>
> Thanks for everyone's help.
>
> Michael Valentine
>
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Attachment:
> http://www.matronics.com/enclosures/3d068b3811e209be6858f3d22b39b68b5a1d87ae.JPG
>
Message 41
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|
| Subject: | Re: 601XL Wheel Pants Con't |
Jim, I made them from aluminum hole caps and a nut plate. I don't have any
photos of them. If you are interested I'll try to get some on some site for you
to look at, Best regards, Bill of Georgia
Message 42
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "jsimons2" <jsimons4@triad.rr.com>
Hi all,
I believe that I am in deep sh**. Today I ordered my plans for a Zodiac CH
601 HDS without telling my wife that I was even near ordering plans. How much
longer do I have to live? (Read as "How long does it take for the plans to arrive?")
How long do I have to get the dog house in order and liveable? HELLLLLLLLLP!!!
Jerome
Almost a "scrap" builder (if I live)
Just waiting on plans now.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=42704#42704
Message 43
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|
| Subject: | Re: Finished with empanage ! |
Good going Hudson! Success at the beginning is a key factor in competition
rates. We all know how happy you will be after the next 1240 hours and you wheel
out your new airplane.
do not archive
Message 44
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| Subject: | Re: Deep trouble!! |
Jerome, lie to her. That and drink heavily. Worked for all the rest of us.
Right guys ?
do not archive
Message 45
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| Subject: | Re: Alodine Question |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "messydeer" <messydeer@yahoo.com>
Kevin:
Sounds like you followed directions according to the Alodine literature. I did
the same thing you did, got the same result. So I asked Henkel. Here's their response
(read from bottom up, duh!):
Sorry, I'm brain dead. I thought you were talking centigrade.
What I meant to say was: run Alodine at room temp 70F +/- 10F. 50F is too cold
for Alodine.
I stand by the air dry program, or heated air below 140F--no rags! Use a hair
dryer if you are in a hurry.
Yes, you can paint anytime the parts are dry--I said avoid physical contact, touching,
rubbing, wiping with rags. Paint withing 24 hours.
Good luck!
DAVID TOMLINSON
Account Executive
Henkel Aerospace
Cell (562)972-0844
david.tomlinson@us.henkel.com
Dan Morehouse
03/14/2006 12:57 PM
To: david.tomlinson@us.henkel.com
cc:
Subject: Re: Alodine and Alumiprep
Thanks, David.
20-30F? So instead of diluting with water, you throw ice in it? Here's what the
tech data sheet says:
Operation and Control:
Time 2 to 5 minutes
Temperature Ambient to 100 Fahrenheit
And here's what it says about drying and painting afterwards:
As an aid to drying, heating the treated part, blowing off with clean, dry,
filtered, forced air or gently wiping with a dry, clean rag will lessen the
time required. Do not allow the aluminum metal temperature to exceed 140
Fahrenheit.
Paint soon after the work is dry in order to prevent soils or oxidation from
recontaminating the prepared metal surface.
I painted immediatley after it dried, as suggested. Are you saying I should wait
longer?
Thanks,
Dan
david.tomlinson@us.henkel.com wrote:
Dan:
The Alumiprep procedure is correct, and you may reuse the solution.
The Alodine may be too warm, I would recommend 20-30F. 1-5 minutes to achieve
desired color. After Alodine, rinse well and drip or air blow dry. Do not wipe
the parts dry! Alodine coatings are gelatinous for several hours initially.
Minimize contact for about 4 hours minimum, 8 is better.
Also, stout plastic buckets might be better. You can hang your parts in with aluminum
wires.
DAVID TOMLINSON
Account Executive
Henkel Aerospace
Cell (562)972-0844
david.tomlinson@us.henkel.com
Dan Morehouse
03/13/2006 03:57 PM
To: bill.wittke@us.henkel.com
cc: (bcc: David Tomlinson/US/Americas/HENKEL)
Subject: Alodine and Alumiprep
Hello:
I'm using Alumiprep and Alodine on 6061-T6. I'm aware of the safety precautions
needed, but have a few questions about my application.
I mixed the Alumiprep according to immersion directions, 1:3 with water, I believe.
My parts were small, so I double bagged gallon ziplock freezer bags and dropped
the parts in. The parts had been scoured with maroon scotchbrite 7447 and
then cleaned with a solvent. I used Naphtha, just because it was there. I would
normally use acetone.
The parts fizzed and I left them in for maybe 5 minutes. Is this about right? Solution
temerature was maybe 55F. Rinsed them with water and immeresed them into
Alodine 1201 1:2 with water. Solution temp was maybe 50F. After 5 minutes,
I removed them and rinsed with water. I read in the tech manual that using a cloth
to dry was okay. But that seemed to take off the Alodine, so I stopped immediately.
Could you explain this please?
Also, can I reuse the Alumiprep? I know I can do that with the Alodine.
Thanks,
Dan
--------
Dan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=42708#42708
Message 46
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| Subject: | Re: Deep trouble!! |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Randy Bryant" <randy@shadycreekoutlaws.com>
Ah... you'll live through the $$$'s for the plans.... After you order a $2K
pallet of 6061-T6 aluminum sheet...let me know, I'll send up a prayer for
you... :-)
Randy
XL - Wings - Plans Only
http://www.n344rb.com
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, June 23, 2006 9:25 PM
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "jsimons2" <jsimons4@triad.rr.com>
>
> Hi all,
> I believe that I am in deep sh**. Today I ordered my plans for a Zodiac
> CH 601 HDS without telling my wife that I was even near ordering plans.
> How much longer do I have to live? (Read as "How long does it take for the
> plans to arrive?") How long do I have to get the dog house in order and
> liveable? HELLLLLLLLLP!!!
>
> Jerome
> Almost a "scrap" builder (if I live)
> Just waiting on plans now.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=42704#42704
>
>
>
Message 47
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|
| Subject: | Re: scratchbuilt aileron bellcrank |
Kevin---- these are solid countersunk rivets--------make countersink holes on both
sides of 6W10-2, install rivet , and than peen over with hammer. smooth the
peened side with a file to make it flush (smooth to the surface of 6W10-2 (spacer).
Hope this helps--
Fritz Corvair, 601XL plans builder, 90/90
kevinbonds@comcast.net wrote:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: kevinbonds@comcast.net
Can someone send me a picture of one of the aileron bellcranks that will explain
the riveted spacer assembly on 6W10-1&2. The side view drawing of the spacer
and bellcrank showing countersunk rivets does not make sense to me. Looks like
both the shop-head and factory-head are both countersunk on each rivet. Is this
correct? How does one do this?
Kevin Bonds
http://home.comcast.net/~kevinbonds
---------------------------------
Message 48
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|
| Subject: | Re: Deep trouble!! |
Airplane? What airplane? I don't see any airplane?
Paul
do not archive
At 06:42 PM 6/23/2006, you wrote:
>Jerome, lie to her. That and drink heavily. Worked for all the rest
>of us. Right guys ?
>do not archive
-
Message 49
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Gary Boothe" <gboothe@calply.com>
Jerome,
Seems like it was 7-10 days, pretty quick. Don't worry. When we all got
kicked out we gathered at Battle Mountain, Nevada. Getting to be quite a
large group...Oh, nobody told you?
Gary Boothe
Cool, CA
601 HDSTD, WW Conversion
Tail done, working on wings....
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of jsimons2
Sent: Friday, June 23, 2006 6:25 PM
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "jsimons2" <jsimons4@triad.rr.com>
Hi all,
I believe that I am in deep sh**. Today I ordered my plans for a Zodiac
CH 601 HDS without telling my wife that I was even near ordering plans. How
much longer do I have to live? (Read as "How long does it take for the plans
to arrive?") How long do I have to get the dog house in order and liveable?
HELLLLLLLLLP!!!
Jerome
Almost a "scrap" builder (if I live)
Just waiting on plans now.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=42704#42704
Message 50
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|
| Subject: | Re: Deep trouble!! |
Yeah, convince her that SHE is the one on drugs and
halucinating...seeing planes..parts..large invoices.. LOL!
Randy
Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Mulwitz
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, June 23, 2006 10:15 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Deep trouble!!
Airplane? What airplane? I don't see any airplane?
Paul
do not archive
At 06:42 PM 6/23/2006, you wrote:
Jerome, lie to her. That and drink heavily. Worked for all the rest
of us. Right guys ?
do not archive
-
Message 51
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|
| Subject: | 601/ Stratus Engine Mount |
Yesterday I tried to hang the Stratus EA81 on my Zodiac 601. Three of
the four mount bolts went in smoothly, but the lower left hand mount
bolt misses the hole in the mount by almost the whole diameter of the
bolt. No way can I shift things around or deflect the legs of the mount
to get the bolt in. Another local builder had the same problem, but was
able to force a fit. Has anyone else on the list had this problem?
I bought my firewall-forward kit, including the engine mount, in 2000.
The mount mated up with the firewall, no sweat. In response to other
builder's reports of cracking lugs on the firewall end of the mount, I
had gussets added to those lugs. Since three of the engine mounts line
up, I doubt that welding induced enough distortion to create my current
problem. I did modify the mount, so I'm reluctant to throw the blame
on the factory, although I suspect that's where it belongs.
Thanks in advance for any helpful suggestions.
George
Message 52
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|
| Subject: | Re: Deep trouble!! for you jsimons |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: ROBERT SCEPPA <rjscep@yahoo.com>
An old hillbilly farmer had a wife who nagged him
unmercifully.
always complaining about something. The only time he
got any relief was when he was out plowing with his
old mule.
He tried to plow a lot.
One day, when he was out plowing, his wife brought him
lunch in the field.
He drove the old mule into the shade, sat down on a
stump, and began to eat his lunch. Immediately, his
wife began haranguing him again. Complain, nag, nag;
it just went on and on.
All of a sudden, the old mule lashed out with both
hind feet; caught her smack in the back of the head.
Killed her dead on the spot.
At the funeral several days later, the minister
noticed something rather odd.
When a woman mourner would approach the old farmer, he
would listen for a minute, then nod his head in
agreement; but when a man mourner approached him, he
would listen for a minute, then shake his head in
disagreement.
This was so consistent, the minister decided to ask
the old farmer about it.
So after the funeral, the minister spoke to the old
farmer, and asked him why he nodded his head and
agreed with the women, but always shook his head and
disagreed with all the men.
The old farmer said: "Well, the women would come up
and say something about how nice my wife looked, or
how pretty her dress was, so I'd nod my head in
agreement."
"And what about the men?" the minister asked.
"They wanted to know if the mule was for sale."
DeleteReplyForwardSpamMove...
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--- jsimons2 <jsimons4@triad.rr.com> wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "jsimons2"
> <jsimons4@triad.rr.com>
>
> Hi all,
> I believe that I am in deep sh**. Today I
> ordered my plans for a Zodiac CH 601 HDS without
> telling my wife that I was even near ordering plans.
> How much longer do I have to live? (Read as "How
> long does it take for the plans to arrive?") How
> long do I have to get the dog house in order and
> liveable? HELLLLLLLLLP!!!
>
> Jerome
> Almost a "scrap" builder (if I live)
> Just waiting on plans now.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
>
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=42704#42704
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List
>
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
Message 53
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|
| Subject: | Re: Alodine Question |
Thanks David. Your info was a big help. That 20-30F thing freaked me out
till I read further.
Kevin Bonds
Nashville TN
601XL Corvair powered; Plans building.
Empennage done; working on wings and engine.
http://home.comcast.net/~kevinbonds
do not archive DO NOT ARCHIVE
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of messydeer
Sent: Friday, June 23, 2006 8:45 PM
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "messydeer" <messydeer@yahoo.com>
Kevin:
Sounds like you followed directions according to the Alodine literature.
I
did the same thing you did, got the same result. So I asked Henkel.
Here's
their response (read from bottom up, duh!):
Sorry, I'm brain dead. I thought you were talking centigrade.
What I meant to say was: run Alodine at room temp 70F +/- 10F. 50F is
too
cold for Alodine.
I stand by the air dry program, or heated air below 140F--no rags! Use
a
hair dryer if you are in a hurry.
Yes, you can paint anytime the parts are dry--I said avoid physical
contact,
touching, rubbing, wiping with rags. Paint withing 24 hours.
Good luck!
DAVID TOMLINSON
Account Executive
Henkel Aerospace
Cell (562)972-0844
david.tomlinson@us.henkel.com
Dan Morehouse
03/14/2006 12:57 PM
To: david.tomlinson@us.henkel.com
cc:
Subject: Re: Alodine and Alumiprep
Thanks, David.
20-30F? So instead of diluting with water, you throw ice in it? Here's
what
the tech data sheet says:
Operation and Control:
Time 2 to 5 minutes
Temperature Ambient to 100=C2=B0 Fahrenheit
And here's what it says about drying and painting afterwards:
As an aid to drying, heating the treated part, blowing off with clean,
dry,
filtered, forced air or gently wiping with a dry, clean rag will lessen
the
time required. Do not allow the aluminum metal temperature to exceed 140
Fahrenheit.
Paint soon after the work is dry in order to prevent soils or oxidation
from
recontaminating the prepared metal surface.
I painted immediatley after it dried, as suggested. Are you saying I
should
wait longer?
Thanks,
Dan
david.tomlinson@us.henkel.com wrote:
Dan:
The Alumiprep procedure is correct, and you may reuse the solution.
The Alodine may be too warm, I would recommend 20-30F. 1-5 minutes to
achieve desired color. After Alodine, rinse well and drip or air blow
dry.
Do not wipe the parts dry! Alodine coatings are gelatinous for several
hours initially. Minimize contact for about 4 hours minimum, 8 is
better.
Also, stout plastic buckets might be better. You can hang your parts in
with aluminum wires.
DAVID TOMLINSON
Account Executive
Henkel Aerospace
Cell (562)972-0844
david.tomlinson@us.henkel.com
Dan Morehouse
03/13/2006 03:57 PM
To: bill.wittke@us.henkel.com
cc: (bcc: David Tomlinson/US/Americas/HENKEL)
Subject: Alodine and Alumiprep
Hello:
I'm using Alumiprep and Alodine on 6061-T6. I'm aware of the safety
precautions needed, but have a few questions about my application.
I mixed the Alumiprep according to immersion directions, 1:3 with water,
I
believe. My parts were small, so I double bagged gallon ziplock freezer
bags
and dropped the parts in. The parts had been scoured with maroon
scotchbrite
7447 and then cleaned with a solvent. I used Naphtha, just because it
was
there. I would normally use acetone.
The parts fizzed and I left them in for maybe 5 minutes. Is this about
right? Solution temerature was maybe 55F. Rinsed them with water and
immeresed them into Alodine 1201 1:2 with water. Solution temp was maybe
50F. After 5 minutes, I removed them and rinsed with water. I read in
the
tech manual that using a cloth to dry was okay. But that seemed to take
off
the Alodine, so I stopped immediately. Could you explain this please?
Also, can I reuse the Alumiprep? I know I can do that with the Alodine.
Thanks,
Dan
--------
Dan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=42708#42708
=========================
==========
=========================
==========
=========================
==========
=========================
==========
Message 54
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|
| Subject: | scratchbuilt aileron bellcrank |
Thanks Fritz. That seemed to be the direction the plans were pointing me
toward, but this is the first I've ever heard of this countersinking both
sides business. I'll give it a shot.
Kevin Bonds
Nashville TN
601XL Corvair powered; Plans building.
Empennage done; working on wings and engine.
<http://home.comcast.net/~kevinbonds> http://home.comcast.net/~kevinbonds
do not archive DO NOT ARCHIVE
_____
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Big Gee
Sent: Friday, June 23, 2006 8:52 PM
Kevin---- these are solid countersunk rivets--------make countersink holes
on both sides of 6W10-2, install rivet , and than peen over with hammer.
smooth the peened side with a file to make it flush (smooth to the surface
of 6W10-2 (spacer).
Hope this helps--
Fritz Corvair, 601XL plans builder, 90/90
kevinbonds@comcast.net wrote:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: kevinbonds@comcast.net
Can someone send me a picture of one of the aileron bellcranks that will
explain the riveted spacer assembly on 6W10-1&2. The side view drawing of
the spacer and bellcrank showing countersunk rivets does not make sense to
me. Looks like both the shop-head and factory-head are both countersunk on
each rivet. Is this correct? How does one do this?
Kevin
_____
Yahoo! Groups gets better. Check
<http://pa.yahoo.com/*http:/us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=41142/*http:/groups.yahoo.co
m/local/newemail.html> out the new email design. Plus there's much more to
come.
Message 55
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|
| Subject: | Rivets: Update on where to buy |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "norriedh" <norried@shaw.ca>
There have been posts on this site as well as the Zenith and CH701
Matronics sites about where to buy additional A4 and A5 rivets.
These note that the English-made rivets which are the ones
traditionally recommended as being of best quality were available
from Avdel Division of Textron Canada Ltd, Ph 1-800-268-9947 or (416)
679-0622. These English-made rivets are no longer available from
this source, in fact, these rivets are not made in England any more and in any
case are now not sold anywhere in North America.
However, Textron, above, still sell the A4 and A5 rivets to the same
strength specifications but they are made in Textron's own factory
in China. I talked to one of their technical people and was assured
that the factory does all the necessary testing to ensure the rivets
are up to the spec (Textron's website gives the strength and other
data). Even Zenith source their rivets from Textron above and no
longer even do their own tests on each batch as they once did.
The part numbers and prices are
A4 01604-00412 49.99 CDN per thousand
A5 01604-00514 64.45 CDN per thousand
Textron will take orders online and accept credit card.
These rivets are also available from resellers including Zenith and
others. Ordering direct from Textron is usually cheaper.
The Textron tech said that they have done tests on holes in
overlapping sheets where the holes did not line up. In general, the
rivets wont line up the holes --- apparently the side forces
generated are not too significant -- but he stressed that all the
offset holes will get filled by rivet material (Unless the holes are
way too much out of line). This agrees with my own testing -- I made
overlapping coupons of 6061 sheet -- sometimes two sheets other
times three - with sheet thicknesses varying from .016 to .040 inch -
-- sectioned the riveted coupons -- and found the A5 rivets would
completely fill holes offset up to .020 and sometimes even more -
and the A4 a bit less.
Douglas N
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=42736#42736
Message 56
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|
| Subject: | Re: Deep trouble!! |
Put the plans in the doghouse and work on the airplane there. She will never
look in the doghouse - consider making the doghouse bigger.
Do Not Archive--
Semper Fi,
Steven R. Hulland
CH 600, Amado, AZ
This and all other incoming/outgoing email, attachments and replies scanned
prior to opening/sending and uses an external firewall to help insure virus
free email and attachments.
Message 57
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| Subject: | Re: Rivets: Update on where to buy |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "David Mikesell" <skyguynca@skyguynca.com>
The A4 and A5 rivets are avex rivets right? That is the brand name and they
are available from alot of suppliers.
David Mikesell
23597 N. Hwy 99
Acampo, CA 95220
209-609-8774
skyguynca@skyguynca.com
www.skyguynca.com
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, June 23, 2006 8:56 PM
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "norriedh" <norried@shaw.ca>
>
> There have been posts on this site as well as the Zenith and CH701
> Matronics sites about where to buy additional A4 and A5 rivets.
> These note that the English-made rivets which are the ones
> traditionally recommended as being of best quality were available
> from Avdel Division of Textron Canada Ltd, Ph 1-800-268-9947 or (416)
> 679-0622. These English-made rivets are no longer available from
> this source, in fact, these rivets are not made in England any more and in
any case are now not sold anywhere in North America.
>
> However, Textron, above, still sell the A4 and A5 rivets to the same
> strength specifications but they are made in Textron's own factory
> in China. I talked to one of their technical people and was assured
> that the factory does all the necessary testing to ensure the rivets
> are up to the spec (Textron's website gives the strength and other
> data). Even Zenith source their rivets from Textron above and no
> longer even do their own tests on each batch as they once did.
>
> The part numbers and prices are
>
> A4 01604-00412 49.99 CDN per thousand
> A5 01604-00514 64.45 CDN per thousand
>
> Textron will take orders online and accept credit card.
>
> These rivets are also available from resellers including Zenith and
> others. Ordering direct from Textron is usually cheaper.
>
> The Textron tech said that they have done tests on holes in
> overlapping sheets where the holes did not line up. In general, the
> rivets wont line up the holes --- apparently the side forces
> generated are not too significant -- but he stressed that all the
> offset holes will get filled by rivet material (Unless the holes are
> way too much out of line). This agrees with my own testing -- I made
> overlapping coupons of 6061 sheet -- sometimes two sheets other
> times three - with sheet thicknesses varying from .016 to .040 inch -
> -- sectioned the riveted coupons -- and found the A5 rivets would
> completely fill holes offset up to .020 and sometimes even more -
> and the A4 a bit less.
>
> Douglas N
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=42736#42736
>
>
Message 58
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| Subject: | Re: Alodine Question |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "messydeer" <messydeer@yahoo.com>
You're welcome. It's sorta hard to figure out, but I'm Dan. David is the techie
from Henkel.
Ciao,
Dan
--------
Dan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=42745#42745
Message 59
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| Subject: | Re: Deep trouble!! |
Jerome,
IF your wife is "that type" :-) You have only one option:
Imagine you airplane as an affair with a lady and you are getting very involved...
Keep it in secret as much as you can, once she finds out (they always find out,
sooner or later), there is no way around, only one thing she can do... Accept
you with "her" or look for a job :-) Dont forget to get a shirt with this
writen:
"My ex want me to quit flying" :-)
Normally tuff women are like that because the husband doesnt put the rules since
the beguining or marriage. Is dificult to understand that a man spends most
(sometimes all) of the money he earnes, to be treated as a slave!
Is like going to a very expensive restaurant and eating what they give you without
the chance to choose :-) The one that pays is the one that gives the orders.
Marriage Democracy? B****t. :-) :-) :-)
A friend here had similar problem with wife when buying his airplane. He solve
it fast this way:
Told her that men are always grown up kids :-)
(Wifes always say that) So kids need toys to play...
If he cant play with airplanes, he might go an play with Barbies :-) :-)
He bought the plane that week!
Saludos
Gary Gower.
Yes, Mexican :-)
JAPhillipsGA@aol.com wrote: Jerome, lie to her. That and drink heavily. Worked
for all the rest of us. Right guys ?
do not archive
---------------------------------
How low will we go? Check out Yahoo! Messengers low PC-to-Phone call rates.
Message 60
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| Subject: | Re: . Fuel gauge issue.. |
For all you guys with flying Zenith stuff and any other ones that use th
e VDO fuel gauges and senders. My 801 has 120+ hours on her and a quirk
has reared it ugly head. On initial fireup the gauges read correctly, af
ter about 10 minutes the right one peggs to full fuel. if I turn off the
master switch and wait for a few seconds and power up the panel again i
t does the same thing, 10 mintes and the gauge heads towards full. I am
guessing it's the sender unit... Any guesses out their???
Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
=2E
<html>For all you guys with flying Zenith stuff and any other ones that
use the VDO fuel gauges and senders. My 801 has 120+ hours on her and a
quirk has reared it ugly head. On initial fireup the gauges read correct
ly, after about 10 minutes the right one peggs to full fuel. if I turn o
ff the master switch and wait for a few seconds and power up the panel a
gain it does the same thing, 10 mintes and the gauge heads towards full.
I am guessing it's the sender unit... Any guesses out their???<BR><BR><
BR>Ben Haas<BR>N801BH<BR>www.haaspowerair.com<BR><BR>
<DIV>. </DIV></html>
Message 61
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| Subject: | Re: Deep trouble!! |
Do what I did. Tell her your building her a new dishwasher. It will be
ready soon!!
Larry
Building Fuse.......Oh, I mean dishwasher!!
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