Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:12 AM - Re: Made it to Osh (Chris In Madison)
2. 07:13 AM - Re: Heavy left wing (Noel Loveys)
3. 11:15 AM - Re: Big holes (George Swinford)
4. 11:15 AM - Re: Heavy left wing (bryanmmartin@comcast.net)
5. 11:17 AM - Big holes (Jaybannist@cs.com)
6. 11:58 AM - Van's OSH Announcement (Ken Arnold)
7. 12:36 PM - Re: Van's OSH Announcement (Daniel Vandenberg)
8. 12:40 PM - Re: Heavy left wing (NYTerminat@aol.com)
9. 01:02 PM - Re: Big holes (Robert L. Stone)
10. 01:43 PM - Re: Big Holes (1.125") (Zed Smith)
11. 03:35 PM - Re: Big holes (Gary Gower)
12. 05:08 PM - Looking for new prop options after a .. hum... strike (Michel Therrien)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Made it to Osh |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Chris In Madison" <cowens@cnw.com>
I was kind of disappointed in the number of builders at the show. I was really
hoping to see Ben Haas' CH801 there, but the only one that I saw was Larry Landucci's
CH801, which is always nice to see. There were only a couple of CH701s
that I saw, including the taildragger you mentioned, and they were neat. There
were a some 601s scattered about, but I was really hoping to see some 801s.
Oh well, such is the way :-)
Otherwise, great show, although my legs are really tired!
Best regards,
Chris
--------
Chris Owens
Waunakee, WI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=49719#49719
Message 2
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If memory serves me right the C150 & 172 don't use any tabs on the
ailerons.
They only have adjusting cams on the rear spars. To keep the plane
clean
and slippery in the air stream that is the route I would go. I would
try to
balance the roll solo because if you have to carry a heavy person in the
right seat you can always temporarily tape a "helper tab" on the left
aileron.
Noel
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul
Mulwitz
Sent: Monday, July 24, 2006 5:58 PM
Hi Jim,
I guess this all comes down to a judgement call.
I would start by taping a small trim tab to the right aileron as
suggested
by Chuck. After you learn how much actual movement you have remaining
after
balancing out the roll tendency you can decide if you want to make a
more
permanent change like you were considering by moving the trailing edge
of
one of the wings. A simpler solution would be to just rivet the trim
tab
you have taped in place and worry about other issues for a while.
You could also consider adding the electric trim tab designed for the
XL. I
built one of those on the first pass, but I think you can add it without
too
much problem. You can run the wiring between the aileron and flap and
the
rear channel to get to the fuselage. Then it is just a matter of coming
up
with a switch arrangement and wiring it up.
Good luck,
Paul
XL fuselage
The questions you have asked.
1. The problem is the same if I sit in the right seat with a lighter
pilot
flying,
2. I have the standard aileron hinges, not the piano hinges.
3. At all speeds I need to use down aileron trim in the left wing to
bring
that wing up.
4. Yes just started and have about two hours of air time.
Thanks
-
Message 3
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Jay:
The "flat-faced drill bit" probably refers to a flat wood boring bit,
the kind with little spur projections on each side. You should be able
to find one at almost any hardware store. Locally, I find them at
Lowe's and Ace Hardware. They work well in a drill press, or even with
a handheld drill and they leave a clean hole. Expect to pay about $3.00
George
----- Original Message -----
From: Jaybannist@cs.com
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, July 23, 2006 10:10 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Big holes
I've got another question for the learned group. How do you get a 1
1/8" dia. hole in .090 aluminum? This is for the torque tube bearings.
ZAC shows a "flat faced drill bit" but no suggestion as to where one
might obtain one of these. I searched the internet to no avail. I don't
think a hole saw would make a smooth enough hole for a bearing. I would
be afraid to use a fly cutter. Is it possible to get the desired
results with a series of step drill bits (in a drill press)?
Jay in Dallas, working on XL fuselage
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Heavy left wing |
All that will do is move the neutral stick position left or right, it will not
apply any correcting force to trim the airplane. It sounds like he has to do something
to correct the wing rigging. Changing the angle of incidence of one of
the wings is one way to do this.
-------------- Original message --------------
> Jim,
> Have you considered making a one-half turn change to the aileron
> connecting rod between the bell crank and the aileron horn? It's easier
> than a trim tab if the condition exists in all modes of flight. You
> might have a slight trim problem.
>
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive
do not archive
<html><body>
<DIV>All that will do is move the neutral stick position left or right, it will
not apply any correcting force to trim the airplane. It sounds like he has to
do something to correct the wing rigging. Changing the angle of incidence of
one of the wings is one way to do this.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px
solid">-------------- Original message -------------- <BR>From: ron dewees <rdewees@mindspring.com>
<BR><BR>> Jim, <BR>> Have you considered making
a one-half turn change to the aileron <BR>> connecting rod between the
bell crank and the aileron horn? It's easier <BR>> than a trim tab if the
condition exists in all modes of flight. You <BR>> might have a slight trim
problem. <BR>> <BR></BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<DIV class=signature id=signature>--<BR>Bryan Martin <BR>N61BM, CH 601 XL, <BR>RAM
Subaru, Stratus redrive <BR>do not archive</DIV></body></html>
Message 5
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Thanks to all of you for your input on drilling large holes in .090 aluminum.
I finally sprung for a 1 1/4" step drill bit. I drilled the torque tube
bearing and got a beautiful hole, 3/32" off center! So I fabricated another
bearing and carefully drilled it. Worked out great.
Thanks again - Jay in Dallas
Do not archive
Message 6
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| Subject: | Van's OSH Announcement |
List,
I'm headed to OSH tomorrow. Still no word on big announcement?
Ken Arnold
Do Not Archive
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Van's OSH Announcement |
I think it was the matched-hole fuselage kit development for the RV-8/RV-8A.
Dan
Ken Arnold <arno7452@bellsouth.net> wrote: List,
I'm headed to OSH tomorrow. Still no word on big announcement?
Ken Arnold
Do Not Archive
---------------------------------
How low will we go? Check out Yahoo! Messengers low PC-to-Phone call rates.
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Heavy left wing |
If the 601 uses a bungee to keep the elevator cables separated like the 701,
move it to one of the elevator cables so that it pulls the stick right. This
worked on my 701. Does the stick naturally want to move to the left while it
is on the ground??? This is a good way to check.
Bob Spudis
N701ZX CH701/912S
In a message dated 7/25/2006 2:17:18 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
bryanmmartin@comcast.net writes:
All that will do is move the neutral stick position left or right, it will
not apply any correcting force to trim the airplane. It sounds like he has to
do something to correct the wing rigging. Changing the angle of incidence of
one of the wings is one way to do this.
-------------- Original message --------------
> Jim,
> Have you considered making a one-half turn change to the aileron
> connecting rod between the bell crank and the aileron horn? It's easier
> than a trim tab if the condition exists in all modes of flight. You
> might have a slight trim problem.
>
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive
do not archive
Message 9
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The tool you guys are talking about is called a "Spot Facer" it is
used to provide a flat surface just a little larger than the bolt or
screw head when the part being fastened has a surface that is not at the
same angle as the part it is being fastened to. I have attached a
drawing to help show what I am talking about. If you are going to get
one or a set of these remember the reason for the spot facing around the
hole is not only so the bolt head will fit flat on the surface but so
you can also get a socket on the bolt head when you are trying to
tighten a nut on the other end.
Bob Stone, Harker Heights, Tx
Zodiac XL (Not too far along)
----- Original Message -----
From: George Swinford
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, July 25, 2006 1:07 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Big holes
Jay:
The "flat-faced drill bit" probably refers to a flat wood boring bit,
the kind with little spur projections on each side. You should be able
to find one at almost any hardware store. Locally, I find them at
Lowe's and Ace Hardware. They work well in a drill press, or even with
a handheld drill and they leave a clean hole. Expect to pay about $3.00
George
----- Original Message -----
From: Jaybannist@cs.com
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, July 23, 2006 10:10 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Big holes
I've got another question for the learned group. How do you get a 1
1/8" dia. hole in .090 aluminum? This is for the torque tube bearings.
ZAC shows a "flat faced drill bit" but no suggestion as to where one
might obtain one of these. I searched the internet to no avail. I don't
think a hole saw would make a smooth enough hole for a bearing. I would
be afraid to use a fly cutter. Is it possible to get the desired
results with a series of step drill bits (in a drill press)?
Jay in Dallas, working on XL fuselage
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Big Holes (1.125") |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Zed Smith <zsmith3rd@earthlink.net>
You may not want to spring for the price of one but Greenlee makes punches, one
of which makes an inch and an eighth round hole.
These are called "knockout" punches; come in "diameter" sizes, and "conduit" sizes.
Most two-way radio service/installation shops have an extensive assortment.
The size you seek is exactly what was used in the old days on "low band whips"
to punch the large hole for base insulator mounting. A local facility may be
inclined to let you use theirs.
Use your caliper to check size.....the "conduit" series makes holes considerably
larger than the trade-size conduit marked on the punch, whereas those marked
as "xx diam." will punch that size hole.
do not archive
Regards,
Zed/701/R912/90+%
Message 11
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This are the type of bit I use for making holes up to 1 1/4" diam. (The biggest
one I have from a bit kit).
Is better using a variable speed hand held drill, just make low and even presure,
use a low speed where you feel confortable. practice in a scrap piece.
put a piece of wood under the work. Is easy and the results are great.
For the first ones I used our Bridgeport, that was overkill :-)
Saludos
Gary Gower
Do not archive.
George Swinford <grs-pms@comcast.net> wrote: Jay:
The "flat-faced drill bit" probably refers to a flat wood boring bit, the kind
with little spur projections on each side. You should be able to find one
at almost any hardware store. Locally, I find them at Lowe's and Ace Hardware.
They work well in a drill press, or even with a handheld drill and they leave
a clean hole. Expect to pay about $3.00
George
----- Original Message -----
From: Jaybannist@cs.com
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, July 23, 2006 10:10 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Big holes
I've got another question for the learned group. How do you get a 1 1/8" dia.
hole in .090 aluminum? This is for the torque tube bearings. ZAC shows
a "flat faced drill bit" but no suggestion as to where one might obtain one
of these. I searched the internet to no avail. I don't think a hole saw
would make a smooth enough hole for a bearing. I would be afraid to use a
fly cutter. Is it possible to get the desired results with a series of step
drill bits (in a drill press)?
Jay in Dallas, working on XL fuselage
---------------------------------
Message 12
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| Subject: | Looking for new prop options after a .. hum... strike |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Michel Therrien <mtherr@yahoo.com>
Hi Group!
I did a stupidity last weekend... there was a bump in
the parking lot that I always avoided and this time, I
drove over it and first thing I saw was my Warp drive
prop going into pieces.
I have an EA-81 with belt redrive and I will be
installing a new Franklin engine next winter.. So,
I'm looking for a propellor that will fit both engines
(so I don't loose to much of anything).
I spoke with Ron at Ivo today and he recommends his
Magnum 3 blade prop for the Franklin. He says I could
use it in a two blade configuration on the Subaru.
Does anyone here has experience or founded opinions on
the Ivo propellor and particularly the Magnum one? I
would go with the electric ajustable one.
Other options are welcomed. Something sure is I want
to order soon (I'm not used to not be flying for
several weeks! ;-)
Michel
----------------------------
Michel Therrien CH601-HD, C-GZGQ
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/mthobby
http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
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