Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:11 AM - Re: Re: 601 XL Rotax cowling needed (Trevor Page)
2. 05:30 AM - slotless flaplaron & Bungee tool (dj45)
3. 05:31 AM - Re: Cheap 601XL flap actuator alternative (N5SL)
4. 07:06 AM - Re: slotless flaplaron & Bungee tool (Dave Ruddiman)
5. 07:53 AM - Re: slotless flaplaron & Bungee tool ()
6. 08:11 AM - Re: slotless flaplaron & Bungee tool (Gary Liming)
7. 09:05 AM - Fuel Tank Leakage Test (Martin Pohl)
8. 09:17 AM - Re: slotless flaplaron & Bungee tool (Charles Wacker)
9. 09:32 AM - Re: slotless flaplaron & Bungee tool (dj45)
10. 09:34 AM - Re: slotless flaplaron & Bungee tool (dj45)
11. 10:16 AM - RE : Fuel Tank Leakage Test (Carlos Sa)
12. 10:46 AM - Re: Fuel Tank Leakage Test (Robert Schoenberger)
13. 10:52 AM - Re: Cheap 601XL flap actuator alternative (Doug Eatman)
14. 11:57 AM - Re: slotless flaplaron & Bungee tool (NYTerminat@aol.com)
15. 03:18 PM - Re: Fuel Tank Leakage Test (sales@steelframe)
16. 03:18 PM - Re: Getting out of an overturned XL (Phyrcooler)
17. 03:42 PM - Re: Re: Getting out of an overturned XL (Craig Payne)
18. 03:51 PM - Re: Re: Getting out of an overturned XL (Bryan Martin)
19. 04:46 PM - 701 Pitch Control Question (doug kandle)
20. 05:37 PM - Self-etching primer (Tim Juhl)
21. 05:52 PM - Re: Self-etching primer (Edward Moody II)
22. 06:45 PM - Re: Re: Getting out of an overturned XL (Zodie Rocket)
23. 07:26 PM - Re: Self-etching primer (Dave Ruddiman)
24. 07:27 PM - Re: Self-etching primer (Ron Lendon)
25. 07:37 PM - Re: Self-etching primer (J2j3h4@aol.com)
26. 08:11 PM - Re: Re: Getting out of an overturned XL (Randy Bryant)
27. 10:31 PM - GPS Navigation (Robert L. Stone)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: 601 XL Rotax cowling needed |
Doug, as it turns out I'm having to order the whole kit from CZAW
because of the licensing termination with Zenith. Nick told me that
most of the current XL sales are Jabiru powered and not Rotax which
is why the whole cowling thing is up in the air (no pun intended)
CZAW sent me some great pictures of the Rotax install with the
cowling and everything is in the front now. My only concern is the
stock muffler might interfere with the oil cooler position since it's
right in front of the can and the front down-tubes from the 912 go
into the can from the front. I've seen some pictures with another
exhaust and the tubes go into from the sides... Perhaps you can shed
some light on this setup since the FW kit photos from ZAC show the
earlier setup like yours with the side-mounted oil cooler.
BTW, the CZAW cowling is carbon fibre so it should be very light...
Some pictures are enclosed that might help. Sorry about the small
size but I'm not sure if the Matronics system will send them out and
kibosh the sizes...
Trev Page
C-IDUS 601HD R912
=EF=BC=EF=BC=EF=BC=EF=BC=EF=BC
On Aug 24, 2006, at 6:58 PM, dfmoeller wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "dfmoeller"
> <dfmoeller@austin.rr.com>
>
> I have had the exact same problem on my 912S/601XL combo and am
> executing the exact same fix. Funny the guy at Zenith didn't
> mention this to me.
>
> I have an early model XL with the side mounted cooler. In the
> central Texas summer, it is simply inadequate, even in early
> morning. I'm reasonably sure it simply is a matter of insuffienct
> air flow. I have great oil pressure and absolutely zero blockage
> around the oil cooler.
>
> I purchased the Rotax cooler from CPS and the mounting bracket and
> banjo fittings from Zenith. I have a mechanic working on
> fiberglassing the new hole in the cowling and mounting the unit. I
> got some dimensions of the opening from Zenith and the newer style
> cowling and mounting is described very well in the rev. 1.1 version
> of the firewall forward instructions which are on the Zenith
> Builders Pages.
>
> Now, if this doesn't work, I'm not quite sure what next, but to
> mount both units.
>
> BTW, where are you located? I would be eager to hear how others
> have solved this problem since there seems to be plenty of 601XLs
> in the south.
>
> Doug Moellering
>
>
Message 2
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Subject: | slotless flaplaron & Bungee tool |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "dj45" <dj45@modempool.com>
Hi all, sometime ago I saw a tool to install the bungee cord, and now I can't find
it again. Getting old I guess. Also there was a set up for the flap arm to
do away with the slot. Anyone know where these are?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=57200#57200
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Cheap 601XL flap actuator alternative |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: N5SL <nfivesl@yahoo.com>
Great find Doug!
I noticed they offer a mounting bracket too. The
Built-in potentiometer and available controller makes
this a better actuator than what I used. I can't
complain since a friend gave me the one I'm using.
Thanks for the post and looking out for everyone.
This may be the way to go for XL plans-built flaps.
Take care,
Scott Laughlin
Working on carb air filter/heat muff, etc.
http://www.cooknwithgas.com/6_19_06_Cowl_Rside.JPG
--- Doug Eatman <pilotdna@HOTMAIL.COM> wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Doug Eatman"
> <pilotdna@hotmail.com>
>
> For you scroungers and scrap builders, I came across
> a neat linear actuator
> that is almost identical in size and function to the
> one Scott Laughlin is
> using at www.surpluscenter.com .
__________________________________________________
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: slotless flaplaron & Bungee tool |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave Ruddiman" <pacificpainting@comcast.net>
The slotless flaperon is for an 801. Maybe you can do it on a 701 also. I
don't know. One place to find it is go to www.liming.org/ch801/flaps.html
and scroll down to friby-hass no slot flap. I don't know where the bungee
tool is. It might be in the builder made tools, but I can't remember how to
get there.
Dave in Salem
801 working on the wings.
----- Original Message -----
From: "dj45" <dj45@modempool.com>
Sent: Friday, August 25, 2006 5:27 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: slotless flaplaron & Bungee tool
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "dj45" <dj45@modempool.com>
>
> Hi all, sometime ago I saw a tool to install the bungee cord, and now I
> can't find it again. Getting old I guess. Also there was a set up for the
> flap arm to do away with the slot. Anyone know where these are?
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=57200#57200
>
>
>
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: slotless flaplaron & Bungee tool |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: <gdascomb@alltel.net>
>
> From: "dj45" <dj45@modempool.com>
> Date: 2006/08/25 Fri AM 07:27:44 CDT
> To: zenith-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Zenith-List: slotless flaplaron & Bungee tool
>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "dj45" <dj45@modempool.com>
>
> Hi all, sometime ago I saw a tool to install the bungee cord, and now I can't
find it again. Getting old I guess. Also there was a set up for the flap arm
to do away with the slot. Anyone know where these are?
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=57200#57200
>
>
> Try:kobushweldingandmachining.com. Look under tools.
George
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: slotless flaplaron & Bungee tool |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Gary Liming <gary@liming.org>
At 07:27 AM 8/25/2006, you wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "dj45" <dj45@modempool.com>
>
>Hi all, sometime ago I saw a tool to install the bungee cord, and
>now I can't find it again. Getting old I guess. Also there was a set
>up for the flap arm to do away with the slot. Anyone know where these are?
The bungee tool is made by Trevor Kobush, who also oversaw Zac's
welding. He has a website, and it is at:
http://www.kobushweldingandmachining.com/aircraft%20tools.htm
I've used this tool, and it does work.
I also found out a few things about the bungees. In AC43.13, it says
that these things are to be replaced every three years. (It also
shows you the color coding scheme for determining when your bungee
was manufactured.)
I contacted the sole manufacturer of the bungee rings ( SBC
Industries, http://www.sbcindustries.com a third generation company -
a spin off of Superior Bungee) and he said he's gotten some returned
that needed to be replaced in 1 year, and some that were 20 years old
that didn't need to be replaced. He said the main difference is
whether or not they are exposed to oil (or, presumably, all petroleum
based products.) These rings are used on vintage aircraft and Cubs
and Champs, and on those they are usually covered with an oil-proof
cover for just that reason.
Gary Liming
N1776G
Message 7
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Subject: | Fuel Tank Leakage Test |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Martin Pohl" <mpohl@pohltec.ch>
I am currently trying to test my fuel tanks (including fuel line to the wing root)
for leakages.
Problem: I want to follow Bingelis' instruction using a balloon at the fuel tank
vent. It is quite difficult to seal the fuel tank filler neck properly. How
did you do that? Any advice?
Cheers from Switzerland
Martin
--------
Martin Pohl
Zodiac XL QBK
8645 Jona, Switzerland
www.pohltec.ch/ZodiacXL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=57270#57270
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: slotless flaplaron & Bungee tool |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Charles Wacker" <ccwacker@hotmail.com>
The bungee tool is made by Kobush Welding and Machining. Josh Kobush works
for Zenith.
He has a web site www.kobushweldingandmachining.com
>From: "Dave Ruddiman" <pacificpainting@comcast.net>
>To: <zenith-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: Zenith-List: slotless flaplaron & Bungee tool
>Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2006 07:05:52 -0700
>
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave Ruddiman"
><pacificpainting@comcast.net>
>
>The slotless flaperon is for an 801. Maybe you can do it on a 701 also. I
>don't know. One place to find it is go to www.liming.org/ch801/flaps.html
>and scroll down to friby-hass no slot flap. I don't know where the bungee
>tool is. It might be in the builder made tools, but I can't remember how to
>get there.
>
>Dave in Salem
>801 working on the wings.
>
>
>----- Original Message ----- From: "dj45" <dj45@modempool.com>
>To: <zenith-list@matronics.com>
>Sent: Friday, August 25, 2006 5:27 AM
>Subject: Zenith-List: slotless flaplaron & Bungee tool
>
>
>>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "dj45" <dj45@modempool.com>
>>
>>Hi all, sometime ago I saw a tool to install the bungee cord, and now I
>>can't find it again. Getting old I guess. Also there was a set up for the
>>flap arm to do away with the slot. Anyone know where these are?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>Read this topic online here:
>>
>>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=57200#57200
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: slotless flaplaron & Bungee tool |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "dj45" <dj45@modempool.com>
Thank you both. That was just exactley what I was looking for
Dan Stanton
801, jackson, Mi
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=57282#57282
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: slotless flaplaron & Bungee tool |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "dj45" <dj45@modempool.com>
Sorry, All four of you
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=57283#57283
Message 11
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Subject: | Fuel Tank Leakage Test |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Carlos Sa <carlosfsa@yahoo.com>
I put a bead of vaseline around the cap (before inserting it in place).
The air pressure is quite low, so that was enough to plug the leakage.
Carlos
CH601-HD, plans
Montreal, Canada
--- Martin Pohl <mpohl@pohltec.ch> a crit :
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Martin Pohl" <mpohl@pohltec.ch>
>
> I am currently trying to test my fuel tanks (including fuel line to the wing
root) for
> leakages.
>
> Problem: I want to follow Bingelis' instruction using a balloon at the fuel tank
vent. It is
> quite difficult to seal the fuel tank filler neck properly. How did you do that?
Any advice?
>
> Cheers from Switzerland
> Martin
>
> --------
> Martin Pohl
> Zodiac XL QBK
> 8645 Jona, Switzerland
> www.pohltec.ch/ZodiacXL
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=57270#57270
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
p5.vert.ukl.yahoo.com uncompressed/chunked Fri Aug 25 16:23:45 GMT 2006
__________________________________________________________
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Leakage Test |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Robert Schoenberger <hrs1@frontiernet.net>
Martin, I used surgical gloves which really look weird when blown up.
After putting the entrance to the glove over the filler neck, I took a
couple of large rubber bands - about 7" in length from bend to bend and
wrapped them around the filler neck as tightly as possible. I then
filled the glove through the fuel line, and had a C clamp near the end
which I clamped down on the hose once the glove was filled. Test the
balloon / filler neck with some soapy water to see if you have any leaks
there. If not, enjoy a beer and wait about 2 hours to see whether the
glove deflates. If so, reinflate the glove and then start testing
joints the fuel line, etc. for leaks. Hope this helps. Robert
Schoenberger 701
Martin Pohl wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Martin Pohl" <mpohl@pohltec.ch>
>
> I am currently trying to test my fuel tanks (including fuel line to the wing
root) for leakages.
>
> Problem: I want to follow Bingelis' instruction using a balloon at the fuel tank
vent. It is quite difficult to seal the fuel tank filler neck properly. How
did you do that? Any advice?
>
> Cheers from Switzerland
> Martin
>
> --------
> Martin Pohl
> Zodiac XL QBK
> 8645 Jona, Switzerland
> www.pohltec.ch/ZodiacXL
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=57270#57270
>
>
>
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: Cheap 601XL flap actuator alternative |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Doug Eatman" <pilotdna@hotmail.com>
Thanks for the input everyone.
Special thanks to Scott L. for your extensive detailing of your ideas on the
webpage. My flap arm might "coincidentally" look a bit like yours one
day...
As a side note, the '76 Grumman Tiger I rent uses a simple toggle switch for
flaps and it is still my favorite of any certified plane I've flown. If
anything about the controller leaves me with a question about reliability,
I'll just use a switch.
do not archive
Doug Eatman
St. Augustine, FL
scrounge-build 601XL "The Batplane"
Message 14
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|
Subject: | Re: slotless flaplaron & Bungee tool |
Look on Larry Martins site for the no slot flaperon. _WWW.SKYHAWG.COM_
(http://www.SKYHAWG.COM)
In a message dated 8/25/2006 8:31:20 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
dj45@modempool.com writes:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "dj45" <dj45@modempool.com>
Hi all, sometime ago I saw a tool to install the bungee cord, and now I
can't find it again. Getting old I guess. Also there was a set up for the flap
arm to do away with the slot. Anyone know where these are?
Message 15
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From: | "sales@steelframe" <sales@steelframe.com.au> |
Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Leakage Test |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "sales@steelframe" <sales@steelframe.com.au>
Best thing to use is a Condom,
works better than a balloon.
Ron Saarinen
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Schoenberger" <hrs1@frontiernet.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 26, 2006 3:45 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Fuel Tank Leakage Test
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Robert Schoenberger
> <hrs1@frontiernet.net>
>
> Martin, I used surgical gloves which really look weird when blown up.
> After putting the entrance to the glove over the filler neck, I took a
> couple of large rubber bands - about 7" in length from bend to bend and
> wrapped them around the filler neck as tightly as possible. I then filled
> the glove through the fuel line, and had a C clamp near the end which I
> clamped down on the hose once the glove was filled. Test the balloon /
> filler neck with some soapy water to see if you have any leaks there. If
> not, enjoy a beer and wait about 2 hours to see whether the glove
> deflates. If so, reinflate the glove and then start testing joints the
> fuel line, etc. for leaks. Hope this helps. Robert Schoenberger 701
>
>
> Martin Pohl wrote:
>> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Martin Pohl" <mpohl@pohltec.ch>
>>
>> I am currently trying to test my fuel tanks (including fuel line to the
>> wing root) for leakages.
>>
>> Problem: I want to follow Bingelis' instruction using a balloon at the
>> fuel tank vent. It is quite difficult to seal the fuel tank filler neck
>> properly. How did you do that? Any advice?
>>
>> Cheers from Switzerland
>> Martin
>>
>> --------
>> Martin Pohl
>> Zodiac XL QBK
>> 8645 Jona, Switzerland
>> www.pohltec.ch/ZodiacXL
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=57270#57270
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 16
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Subject: | Re: Getting out of an overturned XL |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Phyrcooler" <phyrcooler@hotmail.com>
Actually - it is ironic that this discussion started. I am currently comparing
various LSA/kits as well as the development of the new LSA's from RAN's and VAN's.
There are some features of the XL that I like - but an area of concern
is the lack of roll-over protection. Any prior discussion on this? Has anyone
put in a rollbar? What is the history of the 601's in regards to ending up
the wrong way up?
Frankly, I am less worried about getting through the canopy, than I am about supporting
the weight of the bird on my head and shoulders. Even more so is a desire
to still be alive to not be enjoying the experienceif I were to be in this
predicament. [Shocked]
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=57355#57355
Message 17
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Subject: | Re: Getting out of an overturned XL |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Craig Payne" <craig@craigandjean.com>
I think that if you look at the photo I linked to the supporting hoops
behind the seats did not collapse. I believe someone on the list actually
inspected that particular plane after it flipped. So maybe they can provide
more information.
www.ch601.org/stories.htm
Van's is featuring the roll bar in the (unreleased) rv-12 but (judging by
the small photographs on the Van's site) I don't see any more roll-over
protection in the pictures of the rv-3, rv-4, rv-6, rv-8 or rv-9 than the
601XL has. In most of these I see a single, large-ish tube between the
fixed, forward portion of the canopy and the rear, movable portion. I would
predict that the two interlocked tubes on the XL would be less likely to
fold forward or backward. Can anyone with more hands-on knowledge of the
various Van's models comment? Any pictures out there of flipped rv's?
-- Craig
Message 18
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Subject: | Re: Getting out of an overturned XL |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Bryan Martin <bryanmmartin@comcast.net>
I know of one case where a 601XL ended up on its back during a forced
landing. The nose-wheel dropped in a hole and the plane flipped over.
The pilot walked away in good shape though. This subject has been
discussed before on this list, check the archives for rollover
protection and roll bars.
On Aug 25, 2006, at 6:16 PM, Phyrcooler wrote:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Phyrcooler" <phyrcooler@hotmail.com>
There are some features of the XL that I like - but an area of
concern is the lack of roll-over protection. Any prior discussion on
this? Has anyone put in a rollbar? What is the history of the 601's
in regards to ending up the wrong way up?
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
do not archive.
Message 19
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Subject: | 701 Pitch Control Question |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "doug kandle" <d_kandle@velocitus.net>
I am assembling my controls. Part 7C1-3 does not appear to have the proper length
shown in the drawings. The drawing shows a total length of 685 mm. With
10mm at each end, the bolts would have a spacing of 665 mm.
However, when I set the tail bellcrank to "neutral" I measure a required length
of more like 620mm. Looking at the drawing of 7C2-2 I would estimate that the
distance should be about 625mm (this takes the 595 distance from the stick attach
point to the bellcrank pivot point and adds 30mm which is the offset for
the attach point of the stick to the torque tube).
The part supplied for 7C1-3 was indeed 685mm so ZAC thinks that they need a tube
this long.
As an aside - Is the "neutral" position of the stick vertical with respect to the
floor or should it be slightly forward or aft?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=57368#57368
Message 20
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Subject: | Self-etching primer |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Tim Juhl" <juhl@avci.net>
Any opinions pro or con about using aerosol self-etching primer for corrosion protection
on internal surfaces that are to be riveted together? I checked the
archives but what I found was inconclusive on this point.
Tim
Do not archive
--------
DO NOT ARCHIVE
______________
CFII
Champ L16A flying
Zodiac XL - Horiz. Stab. & Elev.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=57382#57382
Message 21
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Subject: | Re: Self-etching primer |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Edward Moody II" <dredmoody@cox.net>
The plane (a 601XL) is still under construction so I can only offer opinion
without a history to back it up or a control to compare to.
I am using Tempo self-etching zinc oxide (not chromate) primer (from rattle
cans) on all the interior of the plane and any overlap areas that can't be
primed and painted when the plane is finished. My rule is if it can't be
primed and painted later, prime it now. I will feel safer for having done
this but as I said, I have no proof that I am actually safer. It does take
time and cost money and adds weight but my decision remains the same despite
those negatives.
Ed Moody II
Rayne, LA
601XL/ fuselage
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Juhl" <juhl@avci.net>
Subject: Zenith-List: Self-etching primer
> Any opinions pro or con about using aerosol self-etching primer for
> corrosion protection on internal surfaces that are to be riveted together?
> I checked the archives but what I found was inconclusive on this point.
>
> Tim
Message 22
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Subject: | Re: Getting out of an overturned XL |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Zodie Rocket" <zodierocket@hsfx.ca>
Well believe it or not I was actually asked to remove that picture a
year or so ago by another builder. Heck I'm leaving it on, that 601HD
took a hell of a beating and stayed in that spot, in that condition for
6 mos before the airport had it removed. I have also talked to Chris
Heintz about this possibility and he has stated (much like you see in
the picture) that the design of the Rudder is such that it will absorb
most of the impact and crush absorbing most energy. The tubes over the
turtle deck along with that tube holding a thick canopy will absorb most
of the rest of the impact if need be. One thing I can truthfully say
after seeing Jon's plane is that Chris designed smartly, parts crumple
to allow survivability and strength is built in with functionality , the
Chris Heintz method of course.
cdngoose
Zodiac 601XL C-GOXL, CH701 just started
www.ch601.org / www.ch701.com / www.Osprey2.com
-----Original Message-----
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Craig Payne"
<craig@craigandjean.com>
I think that if you look at the photo I linked to the supporting hoops
behind the seats did not collapse. I believe someone on the list
actually
inspected that particular plane after it flipped. So maybe they can
provide
more information.
www.ch601.org/stories.htm
--
8/25/2006
Message 23
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Subject: | Re: Self-etching primer |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave Ruddiman" <pacificpainting@comcast.net>
Tim,
I think you will find it difficult to determine if priming, no matter what
you use is necessary or not. So far I have used self etching from spray
cans, sprayed with an HVLP and have also used some zinc chromate. I'm doing
it because I have all the equipment to spray it, it's easy to do and it
could possibly help with resale if that ever comes up. If you have looked in
the wings of factory plans, a large portion of them have never been primed.
Where you live can be a major factor. If you are around a lot of salt air I
would do it for sure. There are probably people on the list that can
contribute a lot more information than I can. I have read a lot about it and
it seems to me that if it makes you feel better to prime then do it. You can
also just brush a strip on the mating surfaces.
Dave in Salem
801
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Juhl" <juhl@avci.net>
Sent: Friday, August 25, 2006 5:36 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Self-etching primer
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Tim Juhl" <juhl@avci.net>
>
> Any opinions pro or con about using aerosol self-etching primer for
> corrosion protection on internal surfaces that are to be riveted together?
> I checked the archives but what I found was inconclusive on this point.
>
> Tim
>
> Do not archive
>
> --------
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
> ______________
> CFII
> Champ L16A flying
> Zodiac XL - Horiz. Stab. & Elev.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=57382#57382
>
>
>
Message 24
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Subject: | Re: Self-etching primer |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Ron Lendon" <rlendon@comcast.net>
Tim,
I tried the rattle can from a marine store and didn't like the results. The stuff
flaked off and was heavy. I saved 3oz. of weight in the rudder by using
the two part self etching primer and a 1" brush and it sticks like weld.
Look at my log here:
and the next entry also.
--------
Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
Corvair Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=57407#57407
Message 25
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Subject: | Re: Self-etching primer |
Rattle can primer by itself will not provide corrosion protection. It must
be covered with a sealing coat of paint. Two part epoxy will provide
protection by itself. At least this seems to be the consensus on the RV list
serves
after many hours of "primer wars". I do not want to start a similar war on
this list, and I have not personally conducted tests on aluminum to confirm
this, so I will not debate the point. However, I did some extensive body
work on a car once and could not finish it in a single session, so just painted
it in primer after each day's work. I drove it between work sessions,
including through some rain. When I went to finish the job, I found the steel
rusted under the primer. If you wish to review the RV debates go to
_www.matronics.com_ (http://www.matronics.com) and subscribe to the RV lists, then check
the archives. You will find many, many posts on the subject.
Jim Hasper
Ex-RV builder
In a message dated 8/25/2006 7:54:38 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
dredmoody@cox.net writes:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Edward Moody II" <dredmoody@cox.net>
The plane (a 601XL) is still under construction so I can only offer opinion
without a history to back it up or a control to compare to.
I am using Tempo self-etching zinc oxide (not chromate) primer (from rattle
cans) on all the interior of the plane and any overlap areas that can't be
primed and painted when the plane is finished. My rule is if it can't be
primed and painted later, prime it now. I will feel safer for having done
this but as I said, I have no proof that I am actually safer. It does take
time and cost money and adds weight but my decision remains the same despite
those negatives.
Ed Moody II
Rayne, LA
601XL/ fuselage
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Juhl" <juhl@avci.net>
Subject: Zenith-List: Self-etching primer
> Any opinions pro or con about using aerosol self-etching primer for
> corrosion protection on internal surfaces that are to be riveted together?
> I checked the archives but what I found was inconclusive on this point.
>
> Tim
Message 26
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Subject: | Re: Getting out of an overturned XL |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Randy Bryant" <randy@n344rb.com>
Why in the world would another builder ask you to remove that picture??
Randy
XL Wings - Plans Only
Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Zodie Rocket" <zodierocket@hsfx.ca>
Sent: Friday, August 25, 2006 9:44 PM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Re: Getting out of an overturned XL
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Zodie Rocket" <zodierocket@hsfx.ca>
>
> Well believe it or not I was actually asked to remove that picture a
> year or so ago by another builder. Heck I'm leaving it on, that 601HD
> took a hell of a beating and stayed in that spot, in that condition for
> 6 mos before the airport had it removed. I have also talked to Chris
> Heintz about this possibility and he has stated (much like you see in
> the picture) that the design of the Rudder is such that it will absorb
> most of the impact and crush absorbing most energy. The tubes over the
> turtle deck along with that tube holding a thick canopy will absorb most
> of the rest of the impact if need be. One thing I can truthfully say
> after seeing Jon's plane is that Chris designed smartly, parts crumple
> to allow survivability and strength is built in with functionality , the
> Chris Heintz method of course.
>
> cdngoose
> Zodiac 601XL C-GOXL, CH701 just started
> www.ch601.org / www.ch701.com / www.Osprey2.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Craig Payne"
> <craig@craigandjean.com>
>
> I think that if you look at the photo I linked to the supporting hoops
> behind the seats did not collapse. I believe someone on the list
> actually
> inspected that particular plane after it flipped. So maybe they can
> provide
> more information.
>
> www.ch601.org/stories.htm
>
>
>
> --
> 8/25/2006
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 27
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Members,
I seem to remember seeing some traffic on the net about the
qualities of the Lowrance Airmap 2000c. All was complimentary and
written by owners of one of these GPS units. The thing that I find
interesting is the prices quoted were up around $600.00 plus. The thing
that makes this price interesting is the same unit is being sold by
Aircraft Spruce & Specialty for $399.00, Part number 11-02222. This
price is in an add on the back outside page of the July 2006 issue of
EAA Sport Pilot. The exact same GPS is in the Aircraft Spruce regular
catalog, on page 466 bottom left at a price of $999.00, Part number
11-02824. I just thought if any of you guys are in the market for a
GPS, a 600 dollar reduction in price is well worth knowing about. I
have a Garmin 296 GPS unit that I intend to use when my ZodiacXL is
ready to fly. It will be either the primary or backup because I am
going to get one of those Lowrance 2000c GPS units.
Bob Stone, Harker Heights, Tx
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