Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:47 AM - Re: FW: 4-tank fuel flow configuration question (Zodie Rocket)
2. 05:04 AM - Re: FW: 4-tank fuel flow configuration question (Harrison-Hutcheson)
3. 05:56 AM - Re: Priming techniques with Alumiprep, Alodine and Zinc Chromate (Kemter)
4. 07:00 AM - Re: FW: 4-tank fuel flow configuration question (LRM)
5. 07:52 AM - Request (Paul Seibert)
6. 09:41 AM - Polishing (or NOT) (Grant Corriveau)
7. 11:10 AM - Re: FW: 4-tank fuel flow configuration question (Les Goldner)
8. 12:57 PM - HD/HDS wings (Timothy D. Perkins)
9. 02:21 PM - 701 Stabilizer Front Mounting Bracket (Chuck Deiterich)
10. 02:33 PM - Re: 4-tank fuel flow configuration question (RURUNY@aol.com)
11. 02:40 PM - Re: 701 Stabilizer Front Mounting Bracket (RURUNY@aol.com)
12. 03:50 PM - Re: Polishing (or NOT) (Bill Naumuk)
13. 06:17 PM - CH701 Wing struts (john swanson)
14. 06:27 PM - cowling (Bill Flick)
15. 06:30 PM - Main gear assembly-500kb (Bill Naumuk)
16. 06:42 PM - Main gear assembly-500kb (Bill Naumuk)
17. 07:03 PM - Re: Main gear assembly-500kb (LHusky@aol.com)
18. 08:06 PM - Re: cowling (Trevor Page)
19. 08:57 PM - How to quiet an air compressor? (Todd Osborne)
20. 09:25 PM - Re: How to quiet an air compressor? (Dave Ruddiman)
21. 09:41 PM - Re: How to quiet an air compressor? (Paul Mulwitz)
22. 11:04 PM - Re: How to quiet an air compressor? (John Marzulli)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | FW: 4-tank fuel flow configuration question |
Les, if your Canadian then your fuel lines must be 3/8=92s in size.
cdngoose
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Goldner
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 2:51 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: FW: 4-tank fuel flow configuration question
This is my first email on the Zenith-list. I am building a 701 from a
kit I bought from the original purchaser. This kit came with four
10-gallon wing tanks but without a main tank. Since the only plane I
ever built had a single tank, I could use some advice regarding the fuel
flow configuration.
My initial idea (please advise) is to connect the 4 tanks to the Rotax
912S as shown in the attachment. I plan to use heavy 1/4 fuel line and
don't plan to add a return flow line unless you feel it is needed. I
also plan to put an auxiliary 4-PSI Facet electric fuel pump in-line
between the engine and the right-left fuel selector switch. All the
tanks will have fuel level gauges. The two wing tank selectors would be
located on either side of the cockpit near the wing roots and the
right-left selector would be on the instrument panel.
I know that with this config I have to keep tabs on three selector
positions and the fuel levels in at least two tanks. Controlling flow in
this manner seems logical since I will normally fly using only the
inboard tanks and want to keep the outboard tanks dry (unless I am on
long flights). I suspect that its best to fly with fuel flowing from
tanks on both side at the same time to keep fuel levels the same in both
wings.. but I could use advice about this.
Does this configuration work? Your comments would be helpful.
Regards,
Les Goldner
Kit S/N 5298
Progress to date: One wing and tail completed.
--
8/25/2006
--
8/25/2006
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: FW: 4-tank fuel flow configuration question |
Les,
I purchased a complete kit with auxiliary wing tanks. The plans I have
(7-6412, with section on Auxiliary Tanks) indicate the outside
tanks(auxiliary) are connected using a "T", the inside tanks (main) are
connected by a "T", and there is a switch to pick main, auxiliary, or
none. I likewise have 4 fuel level indicators. Do you have top-mounted
fuel level senders on your auxiliary tanks? I would be interested in
hearing how you managed to get the sending unit to clear the top-skin.
Likewise I would be interested in seeing responses to the need for
electric fuel pump....
At times having just one switch seems to be a sufficient challenge while
flying (1971 Piper Cherokee 140) with just left and right tanks. Having
the added complexity of 3 switches - all needing to be in proper
position - might be a bit much (IMHO).
Hope it helps,
Sam Hutcheson
Kit S/N 7-6412
Rudder, Elevator, Stabilizer, Wings, Flaperons, Slats, working on Rear
Fuselage.
----- Original Message -----
From: Les Goldner
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 1:51 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: FW: 4-tank fuel flow configuration question
This is my first email on the Zenith-list. I am building a 701 from a
kit I bought from the original purchaser. This kit came with four
10-gallon wing tanks but without a main tank. Since the only plane I
ever built had a single tank, I could use some advice regarding the fuel
flow configuration.
My initial idea (please advise) is to connect the 4 tanks to the Rotax
912S as shown in the attachment. I plan to use heavy 1/4 fuel line and
don't plan to add a return flow line unless you feel it is needed. I
also plan to put an auxiliary 4-PSI Facet electric fuel pump in-line
between the engine and the right-left fuel selector switch. All the
tanks will have fuel level gauges. The two wing tank selectors would be
located on either side of the cockpit near the wing roots and the
right-left selector would be on the instrument panel.
I know that with this config I have to keep tabs on three selector
positions and the fuel levels in at least two tanks. Controlling flow in
this manner seems logical since I will normally fly using only the
inboard tanks and want to keep the outboard tanks dry (unless I am on
long flights). I suspect that its best to fly with fuel flowing from
tanks on both side at the same time to keep fuel levels the same in both
wings.. but I could use advice about this.
Does this configuration work? Your comments would be helpful.
Regards,
Les Goldner
Kit S/N 5298
Progress to date: One wing and tail completed.
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Priming techniques with Alumiprep, Alodine and Zinc Chromate |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Kemter" <kemter@msn.com>
Larry,
I was at the exact point you are a few days ago with my 701's rudder. I opted
to only wipe down the pieces with thinner and brush on PTI's zinc chromate with
a disposable foam brush. Once the zinc chromate was dry (a light coat dries
really fast), I rivited the skeleton together. I tried scraping off some of
the zinc chromate last night (about 36 hours after I first applied it) with
my fingernail and it wouldn't come off and was as hard as woodpecker lips.
Jim
--------
Jim Kemter
Cibolo, TX
701 / undecided engine
working on tail feathers
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=57937#57937
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: FW: 4-tank fuel flow configuration question |
Why don't you look at how I did mine?
http://www.skyhawg.com/fuelsystem.html. It is straight forward and
simple. I don't like a fuel selector switch. There has been lots and
lots of accidents because of selector switches where the pilot thought
he/she was switching tanks when in fact it was accidentally moved to the
off position. I don't think the switch itself should have an off
position. Turning off the fuel should be a separate deliberate
function. If one insist on a selector switch with an off position, then
make sure it is visible. My setup may not be totally idiot proof, but
close.
On another note, wondering why I haven't flown yet? Well first I passed
my airworthiness inspection with flying colors a couple weeks ago. Not
a single discrepancy. Then I started to taxiing around on my field.
One of the plastic fuel tanks started to leak, then another. I am now
building four new fiberglass tanks, will be done today. The black cloud
continued. Last week we started to program the EFIS (Dynon D10). It
didn't function right, so it should be at the factory today for repairs.
I am down for at least another two weeks. Other than that the test
pilot was really impressed with the ground handling. The acceleration
is great, front wheel was off the ground in 20' or less. I wouldn't let
him take it up because I don't have insurance, and now it appears I
can't get any. So when I get everything fixed, it's up up and away
insurance or not. As soon as it flies, I will post the numbers on my
site.
Larry, N1345L, www.skyhawg.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Les Goldner
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 1:51 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: FW: 4-tank fuel flow configuration question
This is my first email on the Zenith-list. I am building a 701 from a
kit I bought from the original purchaser. This kit came with four
10-gallon wing tanks but without a main tank. Since the only plane I
ever built had a single tank, I could use some advice regarding the fuel
flow configuration.
My initial idea (please advise) is to connect the 4 tanks to the Rotax
912S as shown in the attachment. I plan to use heavy 1/4 fuel line and
don't plan to add a return flow line unless you feel it is needed. I
also plan to put an auxiliary 4-PSI Facet electric fuel pump in-line
between the engine and the right-left fuel selector switch. All the
tanks will have fuel level gauges. The two wing tank selectors would be
located on either side of the cockpit near the wing roots and the
right-left selector would be on the instrument panel.
I know that with this config I have to keep tabs on three selector
positions and the fuel levels in at least two tanks. Controlling flow in
this manner seems logical since I will normally fly using only the
inboard tanks and want to keep the outboard tanks dry (unless I am on
long flights). I suspect that its best to fly with fuel flowing from
tanks on both side at the same time to keep fuel levels the same in both
wings.. but I could use advice about this.
Does this configuration work? Your comments would be helpful.
Regards,
Les Goldner
Kit S/N 5298
Progress to date: One wing and tail completed.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
8/23/2006
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Polishing (or NOT) |
I have left my 601HDS auminum surfaces unfinished for several years
now. For the first few years it was out in an open tie-down spot all
summer, rain or shine, with just a canopy cover. Then it was
indoors, wings off, for the winter being 'fine-tuned'... During this
time the aluminium dulled a little, but still looked not too bad -
especially from a distance ;-).
Last winter I put the airplane into an open hangar. Due to the dust
from the hangar floor, combining with the greater humidity and
condensation, combining with some amounts of snow that would blow in
and 'dust' the airplane, the surface of the aluminum deteriorated
more in those few months than all the years before. Now it's very
dull and 'rough'. This is apparently not a concern in terms of
corrosion as that's what 6061T6 is supposed to do, (i.e. produce a
surface layer to block further contact with air and moisture), but
it's not pretty by any means. And the amount of polishing that would
be required now to clean up this deeper level of surface dulling/
pitting, doesn't make that seem like a good option any more.
fwiw
Grant Corriveau
GHTF 601hds
(you can see the most recent photo on the blogsite link below. still
doesn't look too bad from a distance! but don't get too close)
On 27-Aug-06, at 11:58 PM, Zenith-List Digest Server wrote:
> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Polishing (or NOT)
>
> I did not paint my 601 for the first three years. Just wash and dry.
> Small pits started to show all over, so had to paint.
> Canadian weather.
> Dave Austin 601HDS - 912, Spitfire Mk VIII
-------------------------------
grant.corriveau@telus.net
---------------------------------------
The Wings Stayed On!
http://aluwings.blogspirit.com
---------------------------------------
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | FW: 4-tank fuel flow configuration question |
Sam,
I will try to answer your question about the top-mounted fuel level sensors.
I purchased some 5/16"x5/8" aluminum "stringer" excursions from Spruce (P/N
03-48900) and sat them over the tank perpendicular to the ribs (attached
with "L"s just behind the the fuel sender top plate. This prevents the tank
from getting closer than 5/8" to top skin. In addition, I applied liquid
electrical tape (Spruce # 09-42565) on top of the cut-down electrical
contact on the sender. No chance of the unit shorting out this way!
I also cut an access hole on top of the wing to get to the sender should it
need repair, but this is a different story.
Les
Kit 7-5298
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
Harrison-Hutcheson
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 5:03 AM
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: FW: 4-tank fuel flow configuration question
Les,
I purchased a complete kit with auxiliary wing tanks. The plans I have
(7-6412, with section on Auxiliary Tanks) indicate the outside
tanks(auxiliary) are connected using a "T", the inside tanks (main) are
connected by a "T", and there is a switch to pick main, auxiliary, or none.
I likewise have 4 fuel level indicators. Do you have top-mounted fuel level
senders on your auxiliary tanks? I would be interested in hearing how you
managed to get the sending unit to clear the top-skin. Likewise I would be
interested in seeing responses to the need for electric fuel pump....
At times having just one switch seems to be a sufficient challenge while
flying (1971 Piper Cherokee 140) with just left and right tanks. Having the
added complexity of 3 switches - all needing to be in proper position -
might be a bit much (IMHO).
Hope it helps,
Sam Hutcheson
Kit S/N 7-6412
Rudder, Elevator, Stabilizer, Wings, Flaperons, Slats, working on Rear
Fuselage.
----- Original Message -----
From: Les Goldner
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 1:51 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: FW: 4-tank fuel flow configuration question
This is my first email on the Zenith-list. I am building a 701 from a
kit I bought from the original purchaser. This kit came with four 10-gallon
wing tanks but without a main tank. Since the only plane I ever built had a
single tank, I could use some advice regarding the fuel flow configuration.
My initial idea (please advise) is to connect the 4 tanks to the Rotax
912S as shown in the attachment. I plan to use heavy 1/4 fuel line and don't
plan to add a return flow line unless you feel it is needed. I also plan to
put an auxiliary 4-PSI Facet electric fuel pump in-line between the engine
and the right-left fuel selector switch. All the tanks will have fuel level
gauges. The two wing tank selectors would be located on either side of the
cockpit near the wing roots and the right-left selector would be on the
instrument panel.
I know that with this config I have to keep tabs on three selector
positions and the fuel levels in at least two tanks. Controlling flow in
this manner seems logical since I will normally fly using only the inboard
tanks and want to keep the outboard tanks dry (unless I am on long flights).
I suspect that its best to fly with fuel flowing from tanks on both side at
the same time to keep fuel levels the same in both wings.. but I could use
advice about this.
Does this configuration work? Your comments would be helpful.
Regards,
Les Goldner
Kit S/N 5298
Progress to date: One wing and tail completed.
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Timothy D. Perkins" <Timothy.Perkins@uvm.edu>
Anyone have, or know where I might get a set of completed 601 HD or HDS
wings? Anyone switch from HD to HDS wings and still have the originals
hanging around? I need to replace or rebuild the left wing on my plane (601
HD) after a gear failure incident in June, but figured I'd see if someone
has a set they want to sell.
Before anyone suggests it...I already know about the HDS wings listed on
Barnstormers.
Email me off-list at Timothy.Perkins @ uvm.edu (take out the spaces)
Thanks,
Tim Perkins, VT
Do not archive
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | 701 Stabilizer Front Mounting Bracket |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Chuck Deiterich" <cffd@pgrb.com>
The July/Aug 2006 issue of the Zenair News has a good atricle by Larry
Zetterlind.
It describes cracks in 7H2-6 (Stabilizer Front Mounting Bracket) and his
repair process. He says that on his 701 the brackets were under a stress
due to a poor fit to the fuselage brackets. (See Zenair Newsletter Sept/Oct
2005 for a good picture of this failure.)
Originally, this bracket was .040" aluminum but Zenith now uses .063".
I remember reading about this problem on this forum and I got the impression
that one cause of the cracking was due to the tail shaking during engine
start, particularly the Rotax 912.
Am I remembering correctly?
Chuck D.
N701TX
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | re: 4-tank fuel flow configuration question |
Here is a link to some pics of the 701 2 tank sender access. Simple cork
sheet cut into rings(3 each) used to keep the skin or access cover off the top
of the tank. Used contact cement to glue them together and to tank. One was
glued to the doubler with nutplates. If skin is ever de-riveted there is no
glue between the tank and doubler cork. The sender top can never reach the
access cover using these.
_http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=8CZsWbRuxZMNm¬ag=1_
(http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=8CZsWbRuxZMNm¬ag=1)
I have 4 lines comming down from the 4 tanks to behind the pilot seat. 2
gascolaters(Zenith box type) are mounted on a doubler plate on either side of
the flap control arm. The one mounted on the left is for the inboard left and
right tanks, the one on the right is for the outboard left and right tanks.
There is drain to check for water at each of these. It is 1/4 fuel hose from
each tank. Just before the gascolater is a small clear plastic brass filter
from wicks for each tank. The output from the gascolaters (now 2 lines) are 5/16
fuel hose to a selector on the left side floor in front of the seat. Labeled
off- inboard- outboard. 5/16 line exits this selector and continues up
the left side to a flow sensor behind the rudders, exits the right side of
firewall to an ACS gascolater. 5/16 fuel line covered in heatshield out of the
gascolater to the
912 fuel pump input which is a 5/16 fitting. Output of fuel pump is back to
1/4 inch line, this goes to a brass hose T and then on to each carb. This is
a stock setup except for the 5/16 line from the gascolaters on and per advice
of Jim Greenough in Portland Oregon, the use
of AN842 brass right angle fittings with 1/8 NPT from Spruce to fit the
gascolaters behind the seat for the 1/4 inch line from the tanks. It wouldn't
work with the the straight hose nipples provided by zenith, you could not fit
both gascolaters behind the seat.
Hope this helps
Brian
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | re: 701 Stabilizer Front Mounting Bracket |
You are remembering correctly, but it was the 912s 100 hp engine which has
high compression that was causing this.I think the vibration issue was solved
by starting and stopping on one ignition module instead of both. I will be
inspecting my brackets regularly.
Brian
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Polishing (or NOT) |
And most of the WWII Spits I've seen were camo!
do not archive
Bill Naumuk
42.5%HDS
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Austin
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 10:50 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Polishing (or NOT)
I did not paint my 601 for the first three years. Just wash and dry.
Small pits started to show all over, so had to paint.
Canadian weather.
Dave Austin 601HDS - 912, Spitfire Mk VIII
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | CH701 Wing struts |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: john swanson <jswanson@up.net>
This will come under the catagory of dumb question, but thats better than a
mistake.
Fitting the Wings. Do i cut the wing struts shorter, 7V10-2sp and 1sp to
get the proper dihedral?
I'm asking to make sure that there isnt a mistake in installing the landing
gear
I have the newer? two piece struts
thanks in advance.
do not archive
John CH 701
Alger co MI
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
hi guys. i need a cowl for my 601 hds useing a subaru e81 engine and
also a good rabbit rad for the same. thanks. ralph
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Main gear assembly-500kb |
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Main gear assembly-500kb |
HD/HDS Builder-
After repeated requests to post this, here it is. My "Properties"
says this file is 500kb, which is way below the 2m max set by Matt.
Bill Naumuk
42.5% HDS
Townville, Pa.
After 8 hours learning how to do this, I figured I could do
everyone a major favor by helping them avoid my mistakes. 5.5 hrs
getting the procedure down and completing the first gear box; 2.5 hrs
for the second. The biggest time saver is to cable tie your bungees in
as tight as possible before going any farther. Pass this on to anyone
who asks for it with my best wishes.
1. Drill the holes in the strut plate for the main gear prior to
assembly.
2. The whole idea is to keep the bungees away from the gear box
perimeter. Cable tie the bungees as tight
as possible around the strut and 3/4" cross tube, and trim the
tie ends as close as possible. NOTE:
Remember to cut and remove the cable ties after the gear box
is installed.
3. Align the assembly to the slide rails, then center the holes using
a center punch. Lightly drive the bolts in
from the outside. Eventually, the bolts will be removed using
a pair of pliers and inserted from inside the
gear boxes. The picture above shows both the alignment and
final position of the bolts.
4. Each bolt pattern is going to differ slightly depending on the
builder. I kept the bolts from turning using one
of 3 methods:
A. I took a 6"x1/4" extension, clamped it in my big vise,
heated the bend area with a propane torch,
slipped a piece of pipe over the long end and reefed it
90=B0. Use duct tape to secure the 3/8"
socket and the rest of the assembly together. (Far right
in the picture).
B. I took a flat (No offset for the box end) combination
wrench and duct taped it to a long screwdriver.
(3rd from right).
C. I jammed a long screwdriver between the bolt head and gear
box.
5. Push the bungee out of the way of the hole area to give you some
room to work. I used a 1' bungee
to keep the screwdriver in place. Figure on having to touch up
your corrosion protection when you're
done. Note the sloppy rivet line in the gear slide from work
done in '03. You get more accurate with
practice.
6. I used a "Claw" parts nabber I picked up at HF for $.99 on sale
to insert the bolts. Pull the bolts out
from the outside of the box using pliers, then re-insert them
from the inside. (2nd from left in Tools
picture). Start from the bottom of the box and work your way
up, one at a time. Working space is
critical. Don't forget there are two different lengths of AN-3
bolts used, and make sure the different
sizes didn't migrate from their intended homes in the hardware
box! (Ouch- cost me 1/2 hr!!)
7. Using 2 long 3/8" extensions snapped together, put pressure
against the bolt to allow you to start
the washer and nut (Far left in Tools picture).
8. Finally, keep the bolt from turning using one of the methods
described in (4) above.
There's definitely a learning curve. It took me 4 hours to get my
first 11 bolts in, and 20 minutes for the
last 3 for the port side.
Good building!
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Main gear assembly-500kb |
That makes me feel better about building an XL. LOL
Larry Husky
Lakeview, OR
601XL / Corvair
Building Fuse
Do Not Archive
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Ralph, I have a Zenith cowl for an HD/HDS that will fit a Subaru and
a rad. Contact me off list for details.
do not archive
Trevor Page
UPAC Webmaster
www.upac.ca
On Aug 28, 2006, at 9:26 PM, Bill Flick wrote:
> hi guys. i need a cowl for my 601 hds useing a subaru e81 engine
> and also a good rabbit rad for the same. thanks. ralph
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List_-
> ============================================================ _-
> forums.matronics.com_-
> ============================================================ _-
> ============================================================ _-
> contribution_-
> ===========================================================
>
Message 19
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | How to quiet an air compressor? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Todd Osborne <todd@toddtown.com>
I live in a duplex and my workshop is in the basement. My air compressor
is very loud and I need to find a way to silence it, or at least quiet
it down. Does anyone have any suggestions for how to do this? I have
thought about building an acoustic enclosure, but don't know how to do
this without harming the cooling and still letting air get in.
--
Todd Osborne
Internet E-Mail: todd@toddtown.com
Web Site: www.toddtown.com
MSN (Windows) Messenger: todd@toddtown.com
Yahoo! Messenger: ToddMOsborne
AOL Instant Messenger: toddosborn@aol.com
Skype: toddmosborne
Message 20
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: How to quiet an air compressor? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave Ruddiman" <pacificpainting@comcast.net>
I'm not an expert on the subject, but I'm sure someone is. You probably have
one of the diaphragm type of compressors They 'rethe noisiest. That's the
same I have. I put mine outside in a tool shed behind the shop. Now the
neighbors have to listen to it. If I were in your situation I would build a
box around it and line it with styrofoam board. You might be able to cool it
by cutting some louvers in the bottom and some more in the top. Maybe get a
small squirrel cage fan or a bathroom fan with some ducting and suck the air
from the bottom out the top. The holes might let some noise out but I'm sure
it would cut down on the noise considerably. The other thing would be to get
a compressor that is belt driven. They still make noise, but not as much as
the other type.
That's my idea. Let's see who can add to it. Good luck on it.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Todd Osborne" <todd@toddtown.com>
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 8:53 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: How to quiet an air compressor?
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Todd Osborne <todd@toddtown.com>
>
> I live in a duplex and my workshop is in the basement. My air compressor
> is very loud and I need to find a way to silence it, or at least quiet it
> down. Does anyone have any suggestions for how to do this? I have thought
> about building an acoustic enclosure, but don't know how to do this
> without harming the cooling and still letting air get in.
>
> --
> Todd Osborne
> Internet E-Mail: todd@toddtown.com
> Web Site: www.toddtown.com
> MSN (Windows) Messenger: todd@toddtown.com
> Yahoo! Messenger: ToddMOsborne
> AOL Instant Messenger: toddosborn@aol.com
> Skype: toddmosborne
>
>
>
Message 21
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: How to quiet an air compressor? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Paul Mulwitz <p.mulwitz@worldnet.att.net>
Hi Todd,
One way that works is to replace your direct drive compressor with a
belt driven one. The belt driven ones are more expensive but
naturally more quiet. I got a really nice one made with "Eagle"
brand for around $250 from the "Tool Peddler" in Portland, OR - near
my home and shop.
Sorry if this is not the answer you were hoping for. Maybe somebody
else has that one.
Good luck,
Paul
XL fuselage
-> Zenith-List message posted by: Todd Osborne <todd@toddtown.com>
>I live in a duplex and my workshop is in the basement. My air
>compressor is very loud and I need to find a way to silence it, or
>at least quiet it down. Does anyone have any suggestions for how to
>do this? I have thought about building an acoustic enclosure, but
>don't know how to do this without harming the cooling and still
>letting air get in.
>
>--
>Todd Osborne
>Internet E-Mail: todd@toddtown.com
>Web Site: www.toddtown.com
-
Message 22
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: How to quiet an air compressor? |
My guess is that you made the same mistake I did... buy an oiless
compressor. They are just loud by nature.
-John in Seattle
On 8/28/06, Todd Osborne <todd@toddtown.com> wrote:
>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Todd Osborne <todd@toddtown.com>
>
> I live in a duplex and my workshop is in the basement. My air compressor
> is very loud and I need to find a way to silence it, or at least quiet
> it down. Does anyone have any suggestions for how to do this? I have
> thought about building an acoustic enclosure, but don't know how to do
> this without harming the cooling and still letting air get in.
>
> --
> Todd Osborne
> Internet E-Mail: todd@toddtown.com
> Web Site: www.toddtown.com
> MSN (Windows) Messenger: todd@toddtown.com
> Yahoo! Messenger: ToddMOsborne
> AOL Instant Messenger: toddosborn@aol.com
> Skype: toddmosborne
>
>
--
John Marzulli
http://701Builder.blogspot.com/
"Flying a plane is no different than riding a bicycle... it's just a lot
harder to put baseball cards in the spokes.
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|