---------------------------------------------------------- Zenith-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Mon 08/28/06: 22 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 04:47 AM - Re: FW: 4-tank fuel flow configuration question (Zodie Rocket) 2. 05:04 AM - Re: FW: 4-tank fuel flow configuration question (Harrison-Hutcheson) 3. 05:56 AM - Re: Priming techniques with Alumiprep, Alodine and Zinc Chromate (Kemter) 4. 07:00 AM - Re: FW: 4-tank fuel flow configuration question (LRM) 5. 07:52 AM - Request (Paul Seibert) 6. 09:41 AM - Polishing (or NOT) (Grant Corriveau) 7. 11:10 AM - Re: FW: 4-tank fuel flow configuration question (Les Goldner) 8. 12:57 PM - HD/HDS wings (Timothy D. Perkins) 9. 02:21 PM - 701 Stabilizer Front Mounting Bracket (Chuck Deiterich) 10. 02:33 PM - Re: 4-tank fuel flow configuration question (RURUNY@aol.com) 11. 02:40 PM - Re: 701 Stabilizer Front Mounting Bracket (RURUNY@aol.com) 12. 03:50 PM - Re: Polishing (or NOT) (Bill Naumuk) 13. 06:17 PM - CH701 Wing struts (john swanson) 14. 06:27 PM - cowling (Bill Flick) 15. 06:30 PM - Main gear assembly-500kb (Bill Naumuk) 16. 06:42 PM - Main gear assembly-500kb (Bill Naumuk) 17. 07:03 PM - Re: Main gear assembly-500kb (LHusky@aol.com) 18. 08:06 PM - Re: cowling (Trevor Page) 19. 08:57 PM - How to quiet an air compressor? (Todd Osborne) 20. 09:25 PM - Re: How to quiet an air compressor? (Dave Ruddiman) 21. 09:41 PM - Re: How to quiet an air compressor? (Paul Mulwitz) 22. 11:04 PM - Re: How to quiet an air compressor? (John Marzulli) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 04:47:34 AM PST US From: "Zodie Rocket" Subject: RE: Zenith-List: FW: 4-tank fuel flow configuration question Les, if your Canadian then your fuel lines must be 3/8=92s in size. cdngoose -----Original Message----- From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Goldner Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 2:51 AM Subject: Zenith-List: FW: 4-tank fuel flow configuration question This is my first email on the Zenith-list. I am building a 701 from a kit I bought from the original purchaser. This kit came with four 10-gallon wing tanks but without a main tank. Since the only plane I ever built had a single tank, I could use some advice regarding the fuel flow configuration. My initial idea (please advise) is to connect the 4 tanks to the Rotax 912S as shown in the attachment. I plan to use heavy 1/4 fuel line and don't plan to add a return flow line unless you feel it is needed. I also plan to put an auxiliary 4-PSI Facet electric fuel pump in-line between the engine and the right-left fuel selector switch. All the tanks will have fuel level gauges. The two wing tank selectors would be located on either side of the cockpit near the wing roots and the right-left selector would be on the instrument panel. I know that with this config I have to keep tabs on three selector positions and the fuel levels in at least two tanks. Controlling flow in this manner seems logical since I will normally fly using only the inboard tanks and want to keep the outboard tanks dry (unless I am on long flights). I suspect that its best to fly with fuel flowing from tanks on both side at the same time to keep fuel levels the same in both wings.. but I could use advice about this. Does this configuration work? Your comments would be helpful. Regards, Les Goldner Kit S/N 5298 Progress to date: One wing and tail completed. -- 8/25/2006 -- 8/25/2006 ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 05:04:01 AM PST US From: "Harrison-Hutcheson" <3717w155opks@kc.rr.com> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: FW: 4-tank fuel flow configuration question Les, I purchased a complete kit with auxiliary wing tanks. The plans I have (7-6412, with section on Auxiliary Tanks) indicate the outside tanks(auxiliary) are connected using a "T", the inside tanks (main) are connected by a "T", and there is a switch to pick main, auxiliary, or none. I likewise have 4 fuel level indicators. Do you have top-mounted fuel level senders on your auxiliary tanks? I would be interested in hearing how you managed to get the sending unit to clear the top-skin. Likewise I would be interested in seeing responses to the need for electric fuel pump.... At times having just one switch seems to be a sufficient challenge while flying (1971 Piper Cherokee 140) with just left and right tanks. Having the added complexity of 3 switches - all needing to be in proper position - might be a bit much (IMHO). Hope it helps, Sam Hutcheson Kit S/N 7-6412 Rudder, Elevator, Stabilizer, Wings, Flaperons, Slats, working on Rear Fuselage. ----- Original Message ----- From: Les Goldner To: zenith-list@matronics.com Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 1:51 AM Subject: Zenith-List: FW: 4-tank fuel flow configuration question This is my first email on the Zenith-list. I am building a 701 from a kit I bought from the original purchaser. This kit came with four 10-gallon wing tanks but without a main tank. Since the only plane I ever built had a single tank, I could use some advice regarding the fuel flow configuration. My initial idea (please advise) is to connect the 4 tanks to the Rotax 912S as shown in the attachment. I plan to use heavy 1/4 fuel line and don't plan to add a return flow line unless you feel it is needed. I also plan to put an auxiliary 4-PSI Facet electric fuel pump in-line between the engine and the right-left fuel selector switch. All the tanks will have fuel level gauges. The two wing tank selectors would be located on either side of the cockpit near the wing roots and the right-left selector would be on the instrument panel. I know that with this config I have to keep tabs on three selector positions and the fuel levels in at least two tanks. Controlling flow in this manner seems logical since I will normally fly using only the inboard tanks and want to keep the outboard tanks dry (unless I am on long flights). I suspect that its best to fly with fuel flowing from tanks on both side at the same time to keep fuel levels the same in both wings.. but I could use advice about this. Does this configuration work? Your comments would be helpful. Regards, Les Goldner Kit S/N 5298 Progress to date: One wing and tail completed. ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 05:56:54 AM PST US Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Priming techniques with Alumiprep, Alodine and Zinc Chromate From: "Kemter" --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Kemter" Larry, I was at the exact point you are a few days ago with my 701's rudder. I opted to only wipe down the pieces with thinner and brush on PTI's zinc chromate with a disposable foam brush. Once the zinc chromate was dry (a light coat dries really fast), I rivited the skeleton together. I tried scraping off some of the zinc chromate last night (about 36 hours after I first applied it) with my fingernail and it wouldn't come off and was as hard as woodpecker lips. Jim -------- Jim Kemter Cibolo, TX 701 / undecided engine working on tail feathers Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=57937#57937 ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 07:00:19 AM PST US From: "LRM" Subject: Re: Zenith-List: FW: 4-tank fuel flow configuration question Why don't you look at how I did mine? http://www.skyhawg.com/fuelsystem.html. It is straight forward and simple. I don't like a fuel selector switch. There has been lots and lots of accidents because of selector switches where the pilot thought he/she was switching tanks when in fact it was accidentally moved to the off position. I don't think the switch itself should have an off position. Turning off the fuel should be a separate deliberate function. If one insist on a selector switch with an off position, then make sure it is visible. My setup may not be totally idiot proof, but close. On another note, wondering why I haven't flown yet? Well first I passed my airworthiness inspection with flying colors a couple weeks ago. Not a single discrepancy. Then I started to taxiing around on my field. One of the plastic fuel tanks started to leak, then another. I am now building four new fiberglass tanks, will be done today. The black cloud continued. Last week we started to program the EFIS (Dynon D10). It didn't function right, so it should be at the factory today for repairs. I am down for at least another two weeks. Other than that the test pilot was really impressed with the ground handling. The acceleration is great, front wheel was off the ground in 20' or less. I wouldn't let him take it up because I don't have insurance, and now it appears I can't get any. So when I get everything fixed, it's up up and away insurance or not. As soon as it flies, I will post the numbers on my site. Larry, N1345L, www.skyhawg.com ----- Original Message ----- From: Les Goldner To: zenith-list@matronics.com Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 1:51 AM Subject: Zenith-List: FW: 4-tank fuel flow configuration question This is my first email on the Zenith-list. I am building a 701 from a kit I bought from the original purchaser. This kit came with four 10-gallon wing tanks but without a main tank. Since the only plane I ever built had a single tank, I could use some advice regarding the fuel flow configuration. My initial idea (please advise) is to connect the 4 tanks to the Rotax 912S as shown in the attachment. I plan to use heavy 1/4 fuel line and don't plan to add a return flow line unless you feel it is needed. I also plan to put an auxiliary 4-PSI Facet electric fuel pump in-line between the engine and the right-left fuel selector switch. All the tanks will have fuel level gauges. The two wing tank selectors would be located on either side of the cockpit near the wing roots and the right-left selector would be on the instrument panel. I know that with this config I have to keep tabs on three selector positions and the fuel levels in at least two tanks. Controlling flow in this manner seems logical since I will normally fly using only the inboard tanks and want to keep the outboard tanks dry (unless I am on long flights). I suspect that its best to fly with fuel flowing from tanks on both side at the same time to keep fuel levels the same in both wings.. but I could use advice about this. Does this configuration work? Your comments would be helpful. Regards, Les Goldner Kit S/N 5298 Progress to date: One wing and tail completed. ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- 8/23/2006 ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 07:52:35 AM PST US From: "Paul Seibert" Subject: Zenith-List: Request ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 09:41:01 AM PST US From: Grant Corriveau Subject: Zenith-List: Polishing (or NOT) I have left my 601HDS auminum surfaces unfinished for several years now. For the first few years it was out in an open tie-down spot all summer, rain or shine, with just a canopy cover. Then it was indoors, wings off, for the winter being 'fine-tuned'... During this time the aluminium dulled a little, but still looked not too bad - especially from a distance ;-). Last winter I put the airplane into an open hangar. Due to the dust from the hangar floor, combining with the greater humidity and condensation, combining with some amounts of snow that would blow in and 'dust' the airplane, the surface of the aluminum deteriorated more in those few months than all the years before. Now it's very dull and 'rough'. This is apparently not a concern in terms of corrosion as that's what 6061T6 is supposed to do, (i.e. produce a surface layer to block further contact with air and moisture), but it's not pretty by any means. And the amount of polishing that would be required now to clean up this deeper level of surface dulling/ pitting, doesn't make that seem like a good option any more. fwiw Grant Corriveau GHTF 601hds (you can see the most recent photo on the blogsite link below. still doesn't look too bad from a distance! but don't get too close) On 27-Aug-06, at 11:58 PM, Zenith-List Digest Server wrote: > Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Polishing (or NOT) > > I did not paint my 601 for the first three years. Just wash and dry. > Small pits started to show all over, so had to paint. > Canadian weather. > Dave Austin 601HDS - 912, Spitfire Mk VIII ------------------------------- grant.corriveau@telus.net --------------------------------------- The Wings Stayed On! http://aluwings.blogspirit.com --------------------------------------- ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 11:10:01 AM PST US From: "Les Goldner" Subject: RE: Zenith-List: FW: 4-tank fuel flow configuration question Sam, I will try to answer your question about the top-mounted fuel level sensors. I purchased some 5/16"x5/8" aluminum "stringer" excursions from Spruce (P/N 03-48900) and sat them over the tank perpendicular to the ribs (attached with "L"s just behind the the fuel sender top plate. This prevents the tank from getting closer than 5/8" to top skin. In addition, I applied liquid electrical tape (Spruce # 09-42565) on top of the cut-down electrical contact on the sender. No chance of the unit shorting out this way! I also cut an access hole on top of the wing to get to the sender should it need repair, but this is a different story. Les Kit 7-5298 -----Original Message----- From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Harrison-Hutcheson Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 5:03 AM To: zenith-list@matronics.com Subject: Re: Zenith-List: FW: 4-tank fuel flow configuration question Les, I purchased a complete kit with auxiliary wing tanks. The plans I have (7-6412, with section on Auxiliary Tanks) indicate the outside tanks(auxiliary) are connected using a "T", the inside tanks (main) are connected by a "T", and there is a switch to pick main, auxiliary, or none. I likewise have 4 fuel level indicators. Do you have top-mounted fuel level senders on your auxiliary tanks? I would be interested in hearing how you managed to get the sending unit to clear the top-skin. Likewise I would be interested in seeing responses to the need for electric fuel pump.... At times having just one switch seems to be a sufficient challenge while flying (1971 Piper Cherokee 140) with just left and right tanks. Having the added complexity of 3 switches - all needing to be in proper position - might be a bit much (IMHO). Hope it helps, Sam Hutcheson Kit S/N 7-6412 Rudder, Elevator, Stabilizer, Wings, Flaperons, Slats, working on Rear Fuselage. ----- Original Message ----- From: Les Goldner To: zenith-list@matronics.com Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 1:51 AM Subject: Zenith-List: FW: 4-tank fuel flow configuration question This is my first email on the Zenith-list. I am building a 701 from a kit I bought from the original purchaser. This kit came with four 10-gallon wing tanks but without a main tank. Since the only plane I ever built had a single tank, I could use some advice regarding the fuel flow configuration. My initial idea (please advise) is to connect the 4 tanks to the Rotax 912S as shown in the attachment. I plan to use heavy 1/4 fuel line and don't plan to add a return flow line unless you feel it is needed. I also plan to put an auxiliary 4-PSI Facet electric fuel pump in-line between the engine and the right-left fuel selector switch. All the tanks will have fuel level gauges. The two wing tank selectors would be located on either side of the cockpit near the wing roots and the right-left selector would be on the instrument panel. I know that with this config I have to keep tabs on three selector positions and the fuel levels in at least two tanks. Controlling flow in this manner seems logical since I will normally fly using only the inboard tanks and want to keep the outboard tanks dry (unless I am on long flights). I suspect that its best to fly with fuel flowing from tanks on both side at the same time to keep fuel levels the same in both wings.. but I could use advice about this. Does this configuration work? Your comments would be helpful. Regards, Les Goldner Kit S/N 5298 Progress to date: One wing and tail completed. ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 12:57:51 PM PST US From: "Timothy D. Perkins" Subject: Zenith-List: HD/HDS wings --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Timothy D. Perkins" Anyone have, or know where I might get a set of completed 601 HD or HDS wings? Anyone switch from HD to HDS wings and still have the originals hanging around? I need to replace or rebuild the left wing on my plane (601 HD) after a gear failure incident in June, but figured I'd see if someone has a set they want to sell. Before anyone suggests it...I already know about the HDS wings listed on Barnstormers. Email me off-list at Timothy.Perkins @ uvm.edu (take out the spaces) Thanks, Tim Perkins, VT Do not archive ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 02:21:24 PM PST US From: "Chuck Deiterich" Subject: Zenith-List: 701 Stabilizer Front Mounting Bracket --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Chuck Deiterich" The July/Aug 2006 issue of the Zenair News has a good atricle by Larry Zetterlind. It describes cracks in 7H2-6 (Stabilizer Front Mounting Bracket) and his repair process. He says that on his 701 the brackets were under a stress due to a poor fit to the fuselage brackets. (See Zenair Newsletter Sept/Oct 2005 for a good picture of this failure.) Originally, this bracket was .040" aluminum but Zenith now uses .063". I remember reading about this problem on this forum and I got the impression that one cause of the cracking was due to the tail shaking during engine start, particularly the Rotax 912. Am I remembering correctly? Chuck D. N701TX ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 02:33:50 PM PST US From: RURUNY@aol.com Subject: Zenith-List: re: 4-tank fuel flow configuration question Here is a link to some pics of the 701 2 tank sender access. Simple cork sheet cut into rings(3 each) used to keep the skin or access cover off the top of the tank. Used contact cement to glue them together and to tank. One was glued to the doubler with nutplates. If skin is ever de-riveted there is no glue between the tank and doubler cork. The sender top can never reach the access cover using these. _http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=8CZsWbRuxZMNm¬ag=1_ (http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=8CZsWbRuxZMNm¬ag=1) I have 4 lines comming down from the 4 tanks to behind the pilot seat. 2 gascolaters(Zenith box type) are mounted on a doubler plate on either side of the flap control arm. The one mounted on the left is for the inboard left and right tanks, the one on the right is for the outboard left and right tanks. There is drain to check for water at each of these. It is 1/4 fuel hose from each tank. Just before the gascolater is a small clear plastic brass filter from wicks for each tank. The output from the gascolaters (now 2 lines) are 5/16 fuel hose to a selector on the left side floor in front of the seat. Labeled off- inboard- outboard. 5/16 line exits this selector and continues up the left side to a flow sensor behind the rudders, exits the right side of firewall to an ACS gascolater. 5/16 fuel line covered in heatshield out of the gascolater to the 912 fuel pump input which is a 5/16 fitting. Output of fuel pump is back to 1/4 inch line, this goes to a brass hose T and then on to each carb. This is a stock setup except for the 5/16 line from the gascolaters on and per advice of Jim Greenough in Portland Oregon, the use of AN842 brass right angle fittings with 1/8 NPT from Spruce to fit the gascolaters behind the seat for the 1/4 inch line from the tanks. It wouldn't work with the the straight hose nipples provided by zenith, you could not fit both gascolaters behind the seat. Hope this helps Brian ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 02:40:55 PM PST US From: RURUNY@aol.com Subject: Zenith-List: re: 701 Stabilizer Front Mounting Bracket You are remembering correctly, but it was the 912s 100 hp engine which has high compression that was causing this.I think the vibration issue was solved by starting and stopping on one ignition module instead of both. I will be inspecting my brackets regularly. Brian ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 03:50:57 PM PST US From: "Bill Naumuk" Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Polishing (or NOT) And most of the WWII Spits I've seen were camo! do not archive Bill Naumuk 42.5%HDS Townville, Pa ----- Original Message ----- From: Dave Austin To: zenith-list@matronics.com Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 10:50 PM Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Polishing (or NOT) I did not paint my 601 for the first three years. Just wash and dry. Small pits started to show all over, so had to paint. Canadian weather. Dave Austin 601HDS - 912, Spitfire Mk VIII ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 06:17:27 PM PST US From: john swanson Subject: Zenith-List: CH701 Wing struts --> Zenith-List message posted by: john swanson This will come under the catagory of dumb question, but thats better than a mistake. Fitting the Wings. Do i cut the wing struts shorter, 7V10-2sp and 1sp to get the proper dihedral? I'm asking to make sure that there isnt a mistake in installing the landing gear I have the newer? two piece struts thanks in advance. do not archive John CH 701 Alger co MI ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 06:27:30 PM PST US From: "Bill Flick" Subject: Zenith-List: cowling hi guys. i need a cowl for my 601 hds useing a subaru e81 engine and also a good rabbit rad for the same. thanks. ralph ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 06:30:47 PM PST US From: "Bill Naumuk" Subject: Zenith-List: Main gear assembly-500kb ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 06:42:19 PM PST US From: "Bill Naumuk" Subject: Zenith-List: Main gear assembly-500kb HD/HDS Builder- After repeated requests to post this, here it is. My "Properties" says this file is 500kb, which is way below the 2m max set by Matt. Bill Naumuk 42.5% HDS Townville, Pa. After 8 hours learning how to do this, I figured I could do everyone a major favor by helping them avoid my mistakes. 5.5 hrs getting the procedure down and completing the first gear box; 2.5 hrs for the second. The biggest time saver is to cable tie your bungees in as tight as possible before going any farther. Pass this on to anyone who asks for it with my best wishes. 1. Drill the holes in the strut plate for the main gear prior to assembly. 2. The whole idea is to keep the bungees away from the gear box perimeter. Cable tie the bungees as tight as possible around the strut and 3/4" cross tube, and trim the tie ends as close as possible. NOTE: Remember to cut and remove the cable ties after the gear box is installed. 3. Align the assembly to the slide rails, then center the holes using a center punch. Lightly drive the bolts in from the outside. Eventually, the bolts will be removed using a pair of pliers and inserted from inside the gear boxes. The picture above shows both the alignment and final position of the bolts. 4. Each bolt pattern is going to differ slightly depending on the builder. I kept the bolts from turning using one of 3 methods: A. I took a 6"x1/4" extension, clamped it in my big vise, heated the bend area with a propane torch, slipped a piece of pipe over the long end and reefed it 90=B0. Use duct tape to secure the 3/8" socket and the rest of the assembly together. (Far right in the picture). B. I took a flat (No offset for the box end) combination wrench and duct taped it to a long screwdriver. (3rd from right). C. I jammed a long screwdriver between the bolt head and gear box. 5. Push the bungee out of the way of the hole area to give you some room to work. I used a 1' bungee to keep the screwdriver in place. Figure on having to touch up your corrosion protection when you're done. Note the sloppy rivet line in the gear slide from work done in '03. You get more accurate with practice. 6. I used a "Claw" parts nabber I picked up at HF for $.99 on sale to insert the bolts. Pull the bolts out from the outside of the box using pliers, then re-insert them from the inside. (2nd from left in Tools picture). Start from the bottom of the box and work your way up, one at a time. Working space is critical. Don't forget there are two different lengths of AN-3 bolts used, and make sure the different sizes didn't migrate from their intended homes in the hardware box! (Ouch- cost me 1/2 hr!!) 7. Using 2 long 3/8" extensions snapped together, put pressure against the bolt to allow you to start the washer and nut (Far left in Tools picture). 8. Finally, keep the bolt from turning using one of the methods described in (4) above. There's definitely a learning curve. It took me 4 hours to get my first 11 bolts in, and 20 minutes for the last 3 for the port side. Good building! ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 07:03:59 PM PST US From: LHusky@aol.com Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Main gear assembly-500kb That makes me feel better about building an XL. LOL Larry Husky Lakeview, OR 601XL / Corvair Building Fuse Do Not Archive ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 08:06:32 PM PST US From: Trevor Page Subject: Re: Zenith-List: cowling Ralph, I have a Zenith cowl for an HD/HDS that will fit a Subaru and a rad. Contact me off list for details. do not archive Trevor Page UPAC Webmaster www.upac.ca On Aug 28, 2006, at 9:26 PM, Bill Flick wrote: > hi guys. i need a cowl for my 601 hds useing a subaru e81 engine > and also a good rabbit rad for the same. thanks. ralph > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List_- > ============================================================ _- > forums.matronics.com_- > ============================================================ _- > ============================================================ _- > contribution_- > =========================================================== > ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 08:57:30 PM PST US From: Todd Osborne Subject: Zenith-List: How to quiet an air compressor? --> Zenith-List message posted by: Todd Osborne I live in a duplex and my workshop is in the basement. My air compressor is very loud and I need to find a way to silence it, or at least quiet it down. Does anyone have any suggestions for how to do this? I have thought about building an acoustic enclosure, but don't know how to do this without harming the cooling and still letting air get in. -- Todd Osborne Internet E-Mail: todd@toddtown.com Web Site: www.toddtown.com MSN (Windows) Messenger: todd@toddtown.com Yahoo! Messenger: ToddMOsborne AOL Instant Messenger: toddosborn@aol.com Skype: toddmosborne ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 09:25:32 PM PST US From: "Dave Ruddiman" Subject: Re: Zenith-List: How to quiet an air compressor? --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave Ruddiman" I'm not an expert on the subject, but I'm sure someone is. You probably have one of the diaphragm type of compressors They 'rethe noisiest. That's the same I have. I put mine outside in a tool shed behind the shop. Now the neighbors have to listen to it. If I were in your situation I would build a box around it and line it with styrofoam board. You might be able to cool it by cutting some louvers in the bottom and some more in the top. Maybe get a small squirrel cage fan or a bathroom fan with some ducting and suck the air from the bottom out the top. The holes might let some noise out but I'm sure it would cut down on the noise considerably. The other thing would be to get a compressor that is belt driven. They still make noise, but not as much as the other type. That's my idea. Let's see who can add to it. Good luck on it. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Todd Osborne" Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 8:53 PM Subject: Zenith-List: How to quiet an air compressor? > --> Zenith-List message posted by: Todd Osborne > > I live in a duplex and my workshop is in the basement. My air compressor > is very loud and I need to find a way to silence it, or at least quiet it > down. Does anyone have any suggestions for how to do this? I have thought > about building an acoustic enclosure, but don't know how to do this > without harming the cooling and still letting air get in. > > -- > Todd Osborne > Internet E-Mail: todd@toddtown.com > Web Site: www.toddtown.com > MSN (Windows) Messenger: todd@toddtown.com > Yahoo! Messenger: ToddMOsborne > AOL Instant Messenger: toddosborn@aol.com > Skype: toddmosborne > > > ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 09:41:59 PM PST US From: Paul Mulwitz Subject: Re: Zenith-List: How to quiet an air compressor? --> Zenith-List message posted by: Paul Mulwitz Hi Todd, One way that works is to replace your direct drive compressor with a belt driven one. The belt driven ones are more expensive but naturally more quiet. I got a really nice one made with "Eagle" brand for around $250 from the "Tool Peddler" in Portland, OR - near my home and shop. Sorry if this is not the answer you were hoping for. Maybe somebody else has that one. Good luck, Paul XL fuselage -> Zenith-List message posted by: Todd Osborne >I live in a duplex and my workshop is in the basement. My air >compressor is very loud and I need to find a way to silence it, or >at least quiet it down. Does anyone have any suggestions for how to >do this? I have thought about building an acoustic enclosure, but >don't know how to do this without harming the cooling and still >letting air get in. > >-- >Todd Osborne >Internet E-Mail: todd@toddtown.com >Web Site: www.toddtown.com - ________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ Time: 11:04:32 PM PST US From: "John Marzulli" Subject: Re: Zenith-List: How to quiet an air compressor? My guess is that you made the same mistake I did... buy an oiless compressor. They are just loud by nature. -John in Seattle On 8/28/06, Todd Osborne wrote: > > --> Zenith-List message posted by: Todd Osborne > > I live in a duplex and my workshop is in the basement. My air compressor > is very loud and I need to find a way to silence it, or at least quiet > it down. Does anyone have any suggestions for how to do this? I have > thought about building an acoustic enclosure, but don't know how to do > this without harming the cooling and still letting air get in. > > -- > Todd Osborne > Internet E-Mail: todd@toddtown.com > Web Site: www.toddtown.com > MSN (Windows) Messenger: todd@toddtown.com > Yahoo! Messenger: ToddMOsborne > AOL Instant Messenger: toddosborn@aol.com > Skype: toddmosborne > > -- John Marzulli http://701Builder.blogspot.com/ "Flying a plane is no different than riding a bicycle... it's just a lot harder to put baseball cards in the spokes.