Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:34 AM - 601 Aileron Lock / Rudder Lock? (Frank Derfler)
2. 05:36 AM - Re: 701 wing struts (Zed Smith)
3. 05:48 AM - 701 Stabilizer Front Mounting Bracket (Dabusmith@aol.com)
4. 06:11 AM - Re: How to quiet an air compressor? (Steve Hulland)
5. 06:50 AM - Re: 601 Aileron Lock / Rudder Lock? ()
6. 07:09 AM - Re: FW: 4-tank fuel flow configuration question (Garrou, Douglas)
7. 07:20 AM - Re: 601 Aileron Lock / Rudder Lock? (Dave Austin)
8. 07:33 AM - Re: How to quiet an air compressor? (Chris Lewis)
9. 08:19 AM - Re: 601 Aileron Lock / Rudder Lock? (Paul Mulwitz)
10. 10:29 AM - Re: 601 Aileron Lock / Rudder Lock? (Robin Bellach)
11. 12:33 PM - Re: 601 Aileron Lock / Rudder Lock? (Klaus Truemper)
12. 01:18 PM - Re: Main gear assembly-500kb (Dave)
13. 02:53 PM - Re: How to quiet an air compressor? (sperry50@comcast.net)
14. 03:31 PM - Re: How to quiet an air compressor? (ihab.awad@gmail.com)
15. 05:22 PM - Re: Main gear assembly-500kb (Bill Naumuk)
16. 05:40 PM - Re: Main gear assembly-500kb (Bill Naumuk)
17. 07:10 PM - Zinc Chromate - MSDS, Respirator, Reducer (Dave VanLanen)
18. 07:11 PM - Re: FW: 4-tank fuel flow configuration question (LRM)
19. 08:23 PM - Re: Zinc Chromate - MSDS, Respirator, Reducer (Dave Ruddiman)
20. 08:44 PM - Re: Zinc Chromate - MSDS, Respirator, Reducer (Paul Mulwitz)
21. 09:15 PM - Re: Zinc Chromate - MSDS, Respirator, Reducer (Larry Winger)
Message 1
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| Subject: | 601 Aileron Lock / Rudder Lock? |
I am awaiting delivery of a factory-made 601 XL / Zodiac from AMD. Getting
everything ready. On my previously owned Grumman it was common practice to
slide a wood block aileron lock between the aileron and wing. The logic
being that gusts wouldn't stress the cabling.
Is it common practice for 601s tied down outside to have gust locks on the
ailerons and/or rudder? Is there typically clearance for a bolt to slide
into the slot?
Is it common practice to use the seat belts to secure the control stick? Or
is there a better plan?
--
Frank Derfler, Marathon in the Florida Keys
Waiting for Zodiac N183AM (just coming out of paint)
See my views and reviews at www.derfler.biz
See my information for pilots at www.flyinflorida.com
Message 2
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| Subject: | RE: 701 wing struts |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Zed Smith <zsmith3rd@earthlink.net>
John,
NO! Don't cut.....that is until you are really sure you need to.
The two-piece strut arrangement you have is the same as what was used prior to
the one-piece arrangement.
ZAC apparently went back to the two-piece struts because of slight variances in
builder technique (not all aircraft got built exactly the same, one-piece struts
didn't result in proper dihedral).
Others may have a different approach, but in my case it took two people, one long
day, lots of walking around, and a lot of measuring.
To make a long story longer, I would offer this: Level the airframe side-to-side
first. Air pressure in the tires will do this.
Second, get both wings up into position and supported by tall sawhorses, ropes,
ladders, whatever. You cannot just hold them up.....arms tire quickly and nobody
can hold them still long enough for a real measurement.
Drill the front spar attach points first. With bolts installed at the front you
can then sight down the front of the wing from one tip to the other (use a
string, too) to get them straight. Make sure the wing is "square with the airframe"
by measuring from wing tips to a convenient point near the tail (just mark
a spot on top center of the fuselage with a marker, measure to this point).
You can then drill the rear spar attach points. Some trimming may be necessary
for access to the bolts. This will be obvious when you get to that point. There
is a note, either in the manual or on the plans, as to the position of the
trailing edge in relation to the top of the fuselage.
Once the wings are attached, fuselage level, you can work on dihedral. We used
a 'smart' level (electronic) and a string/ruler. My "assembly manual" is the
old type-writer version and is a bit lacking as to detailed instructions, but
once you have the wings attached at the inboard end the strut business becomes
somewhat less foggy. The string should be on the front spar as I recall.....
stretch it tip-to-tip and tie a 10-inch Cresent wrench (weight) to each end.
This will probably give sufficient "tight" to the string for your dihedral measurement
at the first rib.
Put tags or tape on the strut pieces and label them.....left, right, forward, aft,
inboard, etc. The strut piece which slips INSIDE is the inboard/downhill
half of a pair. Lay them out on the floor and see that you aren't making a sad
mistake. You will cut off the upper end of the lower half, NOT the bottom end
of the upper half. We only cut off about 3/4" as I remember, and I don't recall
if we had to cut all four......whatever fits.
We raised and lowered the wing tips dozens of times before we drilled the first
hole. Remember, you only get one screw-up per strut. We drilled one 1/8" hole
and stuck a cleco in the hole, one per strut, then drilled the remaining two
holes in a drill press, pulled the cleco and drilled the third hole. Plans
show the bolt directions. Make sure you keep track of "pairs" and left-right,
front/rear because that's the only way they'll fit after you drill the first
hole.
Also, don't attempt to support the wings with just the one cleco; keep the wings
supported until the bolts are in place. The weight of the wings will shear
a cleco and ruin your day.
The online ZAC assembly photos may be helpful.
This will make more sense AFTER you finish.
Regards,
Zed/701/R912/90+%/etc/do not archive
And make sure you have plenty of refreshments....it will be a long day.
Message 3
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| Subject: | 701 Stabilizer Front Mounting Bracket |
The article you are referring to might have been of my plane. I had sent
this post in a couple of days ago but with a picture of my 701 attached so it
must not have made it through. I have been very happy with the modification of
the forward stab attach points.
I replaced the sprag clutch on my 912ULS recently. Now the engine starts
like new. The old clutch showed no visible wear so I was skeptical it would make
any difference. The job was much easier than I expected and Lockwood sent
everything I needed. I bought the Loctite gasket sealant for the ignition cover
at a local motorcycle dealer. My engine had been almost violent during
startup at times. This even led to cracks showing up at my Horizontal attach
brackets. I was disappointed Zenith had claimed my cracked horizontal stab
attach points were caused by assembly mismatch. That was not the case. I made
that
point very clear to them. It appears to have been the sprag clutch all
along. I don't know exactly when the problem started because it was so gradual.
It
was sometimes very hard to start when it was cold. Even when it would start,
it was very abrupt and shook the airframe pretty hard. I had sent the
gearbox in to Lockwood. They freshened it up and turned it around in a day. That
made a bit of an improvement, but it kept getting worse. Replacing the starter
sprag clutch seems to have cured the problem. It has been two weeks now,
including a trip to the Idaho back country without a rough starting episode.
I
had attended a Super Cub fly in at Minam Ranch Oregon. The 701 can hold it's
own. Although it lacks in the prop clearance and turning radius, it costs a
fraction to own and operate. By the end of the fly in I had several tell me the
701 made them believers. Also, I landed on all the strips down in Hell's
canyon and didn't see any of the Cubs down there! I did get two leaking tires
from those huge sandspurs at Dug bar. Fix-a-flat handled that with no problems.
Best to all,
Dave Smith
Orting WA
578 Hrs. 912ULS
N701XL
>do not archive<
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: How to quiet an air compressor? |
Todd,
You can build a small (leaving about 3' all round the compressor) shed with
acustic foam inside. The foam is similar to the waffle bed foam in that it
has spikes that stick out into the room. Some has spikes that are only 2-3",
while others stick out as much as a foot or more. The acustic foam absorbs a
great deal of noise and even simulates the vaccuum of space.
It is used at Raytheon in all kinds of acustic chambers where they fire
rocket engines, etc. Very very effective and not very expensive. Even the
intake and exhaust duct can have the attach point come through a small
acustic lined box.
A small fan in the exhaust duct will probably pull enough air for cooling. I
suspect one could be built for less than $300.00, which includes a nice
weather proff outside finish. A cheaper one could be built for much less.
Just an idea.
--
Semper Fi,
Steven R. Hulland
CH 600 Taildragger
Amado, AZ
This and all other incoming/outgoing email, attachments and replies scanned
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free email and attachments.
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: 601 Aileron Lock / Rudder Lock? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: <dredmoody@cox.net>
My 601XL is a kit in progress. Tail and wings are done and I just began work on
the fuselage, so control surface locks are still in the concept stage. My inclination
is to secure the sticks and rudder pedals inside the cockpit if I will
be away from the plane while it sits outside. I'm not concerned about stress
on the cables since they will have to sustain more force in flight at 125 mph
than they would in a 75 mph gust (which would probably damage more than the control
surfaces). A simple set of straps customized to hold the sticks and pedals
at a neutral position ought to do the job very nicely.
Ed Moody II
Rayne, LA
601XL / fuselage
---- Frank Derfler <fderfler@gmail.com> wrote:
> I am awaiting delivery of a factory-made 601 XL / Zodiac from AMD. Getting
> everything ready. On my previously owned Grumman it was common practice to
> slide a wood block aileron lock between the aileron and wing. The logic
> being that gusts wouldn't stress the cabling.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: FW: 4-tank fuel flow configuration question |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Garrou, Douglas" <dgarrou@hunton.com>
Larry:
What on earth?!? What insurers did you talk to and what were the reasons you were
given?
After my brother got insurance to drive, I figured it was possible to insure anything....
Good luck with the test flight - remember it flies because of physics, not underwriting!
:)
Doug Garrou
Project801
www.garrou.com
-----Original Message-----
Time: 07:00:19 AM PST US
From: "LRM" <lrm@skyhawg.com>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: FW: 4-tank fuel flow configuration question
[snip]
I wouldn't let him take it up because I don't have insurance, and now it appears
I
can't get any. So when I get everything fixed, it's up up and away insurance or
not.
[snip]
Larry, N1345L, www.skyhawg.com
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: 601 Aileron Lock / Rudder Lock? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave Austin" <daveaustin2@can.rogers.com>
I've used a bungee cord between one of the rudder pedals and the stick for
13 years. No damage so far!
Dave Austin 601HDS - 912, Spitfire Mk VIII
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: How to quiet an air compressor? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Chris Lewis" <christopherlewis@earthlink.net>
Todd - Try one of these commercially made filter silencers if your inlet has 1/2"
NPT. I got this one at Grainger and it works great.
Chris in Seattle
--------
701 Scratch Builder
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=58212#58212
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/filter_silencer_226.jpg
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: 601 Aileron Lock / Rudder Lock? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Paul Mulwitz <p.mulwitz@worldnet.att.net>
Hi Ed,
I don't have experience with a finished plane yet either. However, I
think your logic is a bit flawed. The 125 mph relative wind in
flight will, for the most part, be directly in front of the
plane. Ground wind gusts will vary in direction and force and can
cause the plane's control surfaces to slam back and forth between the stops.
I agree with you that the cables can probably stand up to this
treatment, but I am not sure the control surfaces will do as well in
storms while parked outside.
Paul
XL fuselage
do not archive
At 06:49 AM 8/29/2006, you wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: <dredmoody@cox.net>
>
>My 601XL is a kit in progress. Tail and wings are done and I just
>began work on the fuselage, so control surface locks are still in
>the concept stage. My inclination is to secure the sticks and rudder
>pedals inside the cockpit if I will be away from the plane while it
>sits outside. I'm not concerned about stress on the cables since
>they will have to sustain more force in flight at 125 mph than they
>would in a 75 mph gust (which would probably damage more than the
>control surfaces). A simple set of straps customized to hold the
>sticks and pedals at a neutral position ought to do the job very nicely.
>
>Ed Moody II
>Rayne, LA
>601XL / fuselage
>
>---- Frank Derfler <fderfler@gmail.com> wrote:
> > I am awaiting delivery of a factory-made 601 XL / Zodiac from AMD. Getting
> > everything ready. On my previously owned Grumman it was common practice to
> > slide a wood block aileron lock between the aileron and wing. The logic
> > being that gusts wouldn't stress the cabling.
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: 601 Aileron Lock / Rudder Lock? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Robin Bellach" <601zv@ritternet.com>
Here's my story concerning the importance of control locks: I once left the
elevator lock off my 172 when it was parked outside and not flown for
several months. When I did fly it, I did a poor preflight (pulled yoke fore
and aft to detemine controls were free but neglected to actually watch that
the elevator was moving). Take-off required full aft yoke which yielded
about 50 ft/min. climb, and landing required long shallow approach - the
elevator tended to want to pretty much float in neutral. The elevator
flapping in the wind had caused the rivets holding the bellcrank to work
loose and some fell out, leaving much cable slack. I'm now more diligent in
use of control locks and preflight.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Mulwitz" <p.mulwitz@worldnet.att.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2006 10:18 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: 601 Aileron Lock / Rudder Lock?
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Paul Mulwitz
> <p.mulwitz@worldnet.att.net>
>
> Hi Ed,
>
> I don't have experience with a finished plane yet either. However, I
> think your logic is a bit flawed. The 125 mph relative wind in flight
> will, for the most part, be directly in front of the plane. Ground wind
> gusts will vary in direction and force and can cause the plane's control
> surfaces to slam back and forth between the stops.
>
> I agree with you that the cables can probably stand up to this treatment,
> but I am not sure the control surfaces will do as well in storms while
> parked outside.
>
> Paul
> XL fuselage
> do not archive
>
>
> At 06:49 AM 8/29/2006, you wrote:
>>--> Zenith-List message posted by: <dredmoody@cox.net>
>>
>>My 601XL is a kit in progress. Tail and wings are done and I just began
>>work on the fuselage, so control surface locks are still in the concept
>>stage. My inclination is to secure the sticks and rudder pedals inside the
>>cockpit if I will be away from the plane while it sits outside. I'm not
>>concerned about stress on the cables since they will have to sustain more
>>force in flight at 125 mph than they would in a 75 mph gust (which would
>>probably damage more than the control surfaces). A simple set of straps
>>customized to hold the sticks and pedals at a neutral position ought to do
>>the job very nicely.
>>
>>Ed Moody II
>>Rayne, LA
>>601XL / fuselage
>>
>>---- Frank Derfler <fderfler@gmail.com> wrote:
>> > I am awaiting delivery of a factory-made 601 XL / Zodiac from AMD.
>> > Getting
>> > everything ready. On my previously owned Grumman it was common
>> > practice to
>> > slide a wood block aileron lock between the aileron and wing. The
>> > logic
>> > being that gusts wouldn't stress the cabling.
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: 601 Aileron Lock / Rudder Lock? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Klaus Truemper <klaus@utdallas.edu>
Hi,
A gustlock for the rudder is automatically provided by the direct
connection of the
rudder with the nosewheel. Unless that wheel is turned, the rudder will
not move. Hence,
for the rudder I have never used a gust lock.
A different case are the aileron and elevator.
They move freely, and a gustlock is mandatory when the plane is parked
for any extended
period. For my plane, I made a small, lightweight gust lock that
essentially is a bracket with
an indentation fitting over the center stick. The two arms of the
bracket go into the
the channel in front of the spar, and a pin locks those arms in place.
When installed, the
gust lock holds the control stick in the forward, centered position.
This forces down elevator
and neutral aileron position.
If somebody is interested in details, let me know, and I will take some
pictures and install
them on my website by September 11.
Best wishes,
Klaus Truemper
--
Klaus Truemper
Professor Emeritus of Computer Science
University of Texas at Dallas
Erik Jonsson School of Engineering and
Computer Science EC31
P.O. Box 830688
Richardson, TX 75083-0688
(972) 883-2712
klaus@utdallas.edu
www.utdallas.edu/~klaus
Message 12
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| Subject: | Main gear assembly-500kb |
Bill,
It didn't take me 2.5 hrs to do my HD and the wings were closed. How do
you anticipate using your procedure once yours are? There are several
suggested methods posted to install the gear box bolts. My guess is you
missed them in the archives and the old news letters.
Dave 601-HD 912ULS
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill Naumuk
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 12:46 PM
To: zenith list
Subject: Zenith-List: Main gear assembly-500kb
After 8 hours learning how to do this, I figured I could do everyone a
major favor by helping them avoid my mistakes. 5.5 hrs getting the procedure
down and completing the first gear box; 2.5 hrs for the second. The biggest
time saver is to cable tie your bungees in as tight as possible before going
any farther. Pass this on to anyone who asks for it with my best wish
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: How to quiet an air compressor? |
I am a single guy with an understanding girlfriend. I am building my plane poolside
on my on my lanai. I put the compressor inside the house and run the hose
out the sliding door to the lanai. Since there is no one in the house it really
doesn't matter too much about the noise. When my girlfriend is there she knows
to expect the compressor to turn on from time to time. No complaints so far
from neighbors or girlfriend! I was married for 25 years and this would NEVER
have worked with the wife.
Do not archive
Skip Perry - 601 quick-build
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "Dave Ruddiman" <pacificpainting@comcast.net>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave Ruddiman"
>
> I'm not an expert on the subject, but I'm sure someone is. You probably have
> one of the diaphragm type of compressors They 'rethe noisiest. That's the
> same I have. I put mine outside in a tool shed behind the shop. Now the
> neighbors have to listen to it. If I were in your situation I would build a
> box around it and line it with styrofoam board. You might be able to cool it
> by cutting some louvers in the bottom and some more in the top. Maybe get a
> small squirrel cage fan or a bathroom fan with some ducting and suck the air
> from the bottom out the top. The holes might let some noise out but I'm sure
> it would cut down on the noise considerably. The other thing would be to get
> a compressor that is belt driven. They still make noise, but not as much as
> the other type.
> That's my idea. Let's see who can add to it. Good luck on it.
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Todd Osborne"
> To:
> Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 8:53 PM
> Subject: Zenith-List: How to quiet an air compressor?
>
>
> > --> Zenith-List message posted by: Todd Osborne
> >
> > I live in a duplex and my workshop is in the basement. My air compressor
> > is very loud and I need to find a way to silence it, or at least quiet it
> > down. Does anyone have any suggestions for how to do this? I have thought
> > about building an acoustic enclosure, but don't know how to do this
> > without harming the cooling and still letting air get in.
> >
> > --
> > Todd Osborne
> > Internet E-Mail: todd@toddtown.com
> > Web Site: www.toddtown.com
> > MSN (Windows) Messenger: todd@toddtown.com
> > Yahoo! Messenger: ToddMOsborne
> > AOL Instant Messenger: toddosborn@aol.com
> > Skype: toddmosborne
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
<html><body>
<DIV>I am a single guy with an understanding girlfriend. I am building my plane
poolside on my on my lanai. I put the compressor inside the house and run the
hose out the sliding door to the lanai. Since there is no one in the house it
really doesn't matter too much about the noise. When my girlfriend is there she
knows to expect the compressor to turn on from time to time. No complaints
so far from neighbors or girlfriend! I was married for 25 years and this
would NEVER have worked with the wife. </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Do not archive</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Skip Perry - 601 quick-build </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px
solid">-------------- Original message -------------- <BR>From: "Dave Ruddiman"
<pacificpainting@comcast.net> <BR><BR>> --> Zenith-List message
posted by: "Dave Ruddiman" <PACIFICPAINTING@COMCAST.NET><BR>> <BR>> I'm
not an expert on the subject, but I'm sure someone is. You probably have <BR>>
one of the diaphragm type of compressors They 'rethe noisiest. That's the
<BR>> same I have. I put mine outside in a tool shed behind the shop. Now
the <BR>> neighbors have to listen to it. If I were in your situation I would
build a <BR>> box around it and line it with styrofoam board. You might
be able to cool it <BR>> by cutting some louvers in the bottom and some more
in the top. Maybe get a <BR>> small squirrel cage fan or a bathroom fan
with some ducting and suck the air <BR>> from the bottom out the top. The holes
might let some noise out but I'm sure <BR>> i
t woul
d cut down on the noise considerably. The other thing would be to get <BR>>
a compressor that is belt driven. They still make noise, but not as much as <BR>>
the other type. <BR>> That's my idea. Let's see who can add to it. Good
luck on it. <BR>> <BR>> <BR>> <BR>> ----- Original Message -----
<BR>> From: "Todd Osborne" <TODD@TODDTOWN.COM><BR>> To: <ZENITH-LIST@MATRONICS.COM><BR>>
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 8:53 PM <BR>> Subject:
Zenith-List: How to quiet an air compressor? <BR>> <BR>> <BR>> >
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Todd Osborne <TODD@TODDTOWN.COM><BR>>
> <BR>> > I live in a duplex and my workshop is in the basement. My
air compressor <BR>> > is very loud and I need to find a way to silence
it, or at least quiet it <BR>> > down. Does anyone have any suggestions
for how to do this? I have thought <BR>> > about building an acoustic enclosure,
but don't know how to do this <BR>> >
withou
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre></body></html>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: How to quiet an air compressor? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: ihab.awad@gmail.com
On 8/28/06, Todd Osborne <todd@toddtown.com> wrote:
> I have thought about building an acoustic enclosure, but don't know
> how to do this without harming the cooling and still letting air get in.
If this is the one problem, then maybe you need to build a "muffler"
for the intake and exhaust sides. Need not be anything fancy. Here's a
concept. Your mileage may vary. };->
- Poke a piece of sheetmetal a/c duct, about 1' diameter by 1' long or
so, through the wall of the enclosure.
- Cut (say) 4 disks of foam, sized to fit into the duct. In each one,
cut off a segment about a third of the way across the disk.
- Arrange the foam disks with the open segments in an alternating
fashion inside the duct, one after the other, securing them with
long-ish sheetmetal screws from the outside.
- Use one of these assemblies for cooling air in and one for air out.
Place them as appropriate to ensure air flow -- either via natural
ventilation or forced air. Add a fan if you should need it.
I hope this helps. Good luck,
Ihab
--
Ihab A.B. Awad, Palo Alto, CA
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Main gear assembly-500kb |
Can't fit it in the space I have to build it or store it in, though. One
of the primary reasons I went with the HDS. Gotta remember I just moved
out of the basement.
do not archive
Bill Naumuk
42.5%HDS
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: LHusky@aol.com
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 10:01 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Main gear assembly-500kb
That makes me feel better about building an XL. LOL
Larry Husky
Lakeview, OR
601XL / Corvair
Building Fuse
Do Not Archive
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Main gear assembly-500kb |
Dave-
Thankfully, I don't have to anticipate doing them once the skins are
on- they're done and I'm a very happy camper. Let me congratulate you-
you're the first person I've ever heard who waited until the skins were
on to secure the bolts.
Never saw anything in the archives to help my situation, and
apparently a number of other people hadn't either. As I said in my post,
each project is a little different depending on the builder.
Just trying to pass on learned information. Knowing what I know now,
I could probably install the nuts in 2.5hrs from the get-go.
Bill Naumuk
42.5%HDS
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2006 4:17 PM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Main gear assembly-500kb
Bill,
It didn't take me 2.5 hrs to do my HD and the wings were closed. How
do you anticipate using your procedure once yours are? There are
several suggested methods posted to install the gear box bolts. My guess
is you missed them in the archives and the old news letters.
Dave 601-HD 912ULS
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill Naumuk
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 12:46 PM
To: zenith list
Subject: Zenith-List: Main gear assembly-500kb
After 8 hours learning how to do this, I figured I could do
everyone a major favor by helping them avoid my mistakes. 5.5 hrs
getting the procedure down and completing the first gear box; 2.5 hrs
for the second. The biggest time saver is to cable tie your bungees in
as tight as possible before going any farther. Pass this on to anyone
who asks for it with my best wish
Message 17
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| Subject: | Zinc Chromate - MSDS, Respirator, Reducer |
I purchased a quart of PTI green zinc chromate from Aircraft Spruce (P/N
09-00917). I'm planning to thin and brush the product on faying surfaces
only. I have a few questions before I begin using it:
* I asked A/S for an MSDS for the product. The document they sent
contained a product name of "GREEN NON CHROMATE AEROSOL". Did they send me
the wrong MSDS? If so, does anyone have the correct MSDS, as I seem to be
having trouble getting an e-mail response from A/S?
* I previously purchased a NIOSH approved TC-84A-0991 respirator, as
recommended by another builder. However, I came across an old post in the
archive that says this product gives off iso-cyanates when curing. The MSDS
also mentions cyanosis as an outcome of over-exposure. The instructions
with my respirator specifically state that it is not to be used with paints
or coatings containing iso-cyanate materials. Do I need a different
respirator, and if so, which one?
* What is the correct reducer that I should be using to thin this
product, (I also asked this question of A/S, but have not received a
response)?
Thanks,
Dave Van Lanen
Madison, WI
601XL - stabilizer
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: FW: 4-tank fuel flow configuration question |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "LRM" <lrm@skyhawg.com>
Falcon was one, the other slips my mind. Same reason, non-approved engine.
The don't like Harleys. Only millions of them out there, just not in
airoplanes. Larry
----- Original Message -----
From: "Garrou, Douglas" <dgarrou@hunton.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2006 9:08 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: FW: 4-tank fuel flow configuration question
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Garrou, Douglas" <dgarrou@hunton.com>
>
> Larry:
>
> What on earth?!? What insurers did you talk to and what were the reasons
> you were given?
>
> After my brother got insurance to drive, I figured it was possible to
> insure anything....
>
> Good luck with the test flight - remember it flies because of physics, not
> underwriting! :)
>
> Doug Garrou
> Project801
> www.garrou.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> Time: 07:00:19 AM PST US
> From: "LRM" <lrm@skyhawg.com>
> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: FW: 4-tank fuel flow configuration question
>
> [snip]
> I wouldn't let him take it up because I don't have insurance, and now it
> appears I
> can't get any. So when I get everything fixed, it's up up and away
> insurance or not.
> [snip]
>
> Larry, N1345L, www.skyhawg.com
>
>
> --
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Zinc Chromate - MSDS, Respirator, Reducer |
Zinc Chromate - MSDS, Respirator, ReducerDave,
If what you have is Zinc Chromate, then that's what the MSDS sheet
should say. There is also a Zinc Oxide primer that is being substituted
for Zinc Chromate. I believe it is supposed to be "safer".
The Zinc Chromate I have been using is Pittsburgh brand. They recommend
an appropriate respirator or fresh air mask system. I don't believe that
this product contains iso cyanates, but it may. Don't take my word for
it. Read the label or appropriate MSDS sheet. Try doing a search for the
product you have on your web browser. Most all paint products don't
recommend thinning. It is usually due to the fact that the thinner you
use will make the product so that it isn't VOC compliant any more. I
thin what I am using with either paint thinner (mineral spirits) or
lacquer thinner. Check with ACS to make sure you have what you think you
do, and the proper information on it.
Hope this helps some.
Dave in Salem
801
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave VanLanen
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2006 7:08 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Zinc Chromate - MSDS, Respirator, Reducer
I purchased a quart of PTI green zinc chromate from Aircraft Spruce
(P/N 09-00917). I'm planning to thin and brush the product on faying
surfaces only. I have a few questions before I begin using it:
=B7 I asked A/S for an MSDS for the product. The document they
sent contained a product name of "GREEN NON CHROMATE AEROSOL". Did they
send me the wrong MSDS? If so, does anyone have the correct MSDS, as I
seem to be having trouble getting an e-mail response from A/S?
=B7 I previously purchased a NIOSH approved TC-84A-0991
respirator, as recommended by another builder. However, I came across
an old post in the archive that says this product gives off iso-cyanates
when curing. The MSDS also mentions cyanosis as an outcome of
over-exposure. The instructions with my respirator specifically state
that it is not to be used with paints or coatings containing iso-cyanate
materials. Do I need a different respirator, and if so, which one?
=B7 What is the correct reducer that I should be using to thin
this product, (I also asked this question of A/S, but have not received
a response)?
Thanks,
Dave Van Lanen
Madison, WI
601XL - stabilizer
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Zinc Chromate - MSDS, Respirator, Reducer |
Hi Dave,
First, it sounds like the MSDS you got was for a
different product since the names don't match.
I would recommend you try to find the
manufacturer's web site. If there is no
manufacturer listed on the paint can then I don't
know what to suggest. If you can find the
manufacturer, then you can certainly get the correct MSDS - probably online.
I wouldn't worry about isocyanates unless the
MSDS and'or can says they are included in the
product. The proper MSDS will give the necessary
safe handling and use instructions.
If none of that works out, please post
again. Maybe someone can help find the correct
MSDS given a picture of the can or more information you might find.
Good luck,
Paul
XL fuselage
do not archive
At 07:08 PM 8/29/2006, you wrote:
>I purchased a quart of PTI green zinc chromate
>from Aircraft Spruce (P/N 09-00917). I=92m
>planning to thin and brush the product on faying
>surfaces only. I have a few questions before I begin using it:
>
>=B7 I asked A/S for an MSDS for the
>product. The document they sent contained a
>product name of =93GREEN NON CHROMATE
>AEROSOL=94. Did they send me the wrong MSDS? If
>so, does anyone have the correct MSDS, as I seem
>to be having trouble getting an e-mail response from A/S?
>
>=B7 I previously purchased a NIOSH approved
>TC-84A-0991 respirator, as recommended by
>another builder. However, I came across an old
>post in the archive that says this product gives
>off iso-cyanates when curing. The MSDS also
>mentions cyanosis as an outcome of
>over-exposure. The instructions with my
>respirator specifically state that it is not to
>be used with paints or coatings containing
>iso-cyanate materials. Do I need a different
>respirator, and if so, which one?
>
>=B7 What is the correct reducer that I
>should be using to thin this product, (I also
>asked this question of A/S, but have not received a response)?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Dave Van Lanen
>
>Madison, WI
>
>601XL - stabilizer
---------------------------------------------
Paul Mulwitz
32013 NE Dial Road
Camas, WA 98607
---------------------------------------------
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Zinc Chromate - MSDS, Respirator, Reducer |
List,
I've communicated offline with Dave, but I'll tell the list that I'm in
communication with the President of PTI about providing some definitive tes
t
data on their Zinc Chromate and Zinc Oxide primers, including definitive
test data on surface prep. He took enough interest in the project to come
to my place of work to pick up some 6061-T6 sheets and parts I have made fo
r
my 601XL. The chemist has those parts now and will be running test over th
e
next few days.
I'll be reporting the results. I think there is good news ahead for all who
would like to get the protection of ZC or ZO without all the prep steps tha
t
have customarily been required.
Larry Winger
Scratch building 601XL
Rudder parts ready to prime
Tustin, CA
On 8/29/06, Paul Mulwitz <p.mulwitz@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
>
> Hi Dave,
>
> First, it sounds like the MSDS you got was for a different product since
> the names don't match.
>
> I would recommend you try to find the manufacturer's web site. If there
> is no manufacturer listed on the paint can then I don't know what to
> suggest. If you can find the manufacturer, then you can certainly get th
e
> correct MSDS - probably online.
>
> I wouldn't worry about isocyanates unless the MSDS and'or can says they
> are included in the product. The proper MSDS will give the necessary saf
e
> handling and use instructions.
>
> If none of that works out, please post again. Maybe someone can help fin
d
> the correct MSDS given a picture of the can or more information you might
> find.
>
> Good luck,
>
> Paul
> XL fuselage
> do not archive
>
>
> At 07:08 PM 8/29/2006, you wrote:
>
> I purchased a quart of PTI green zinc chromate from Aircraft Spruce (P/N
09-00917).
> I'm planning to thin and brush the product on faying surfaces only. I hav
e
> a few questions before I begin using it:
>
> =B7 I asked A/S for an MSDS for the product. The document they sen
t
> contained a product name of "GREEN NON CHROMATE AEROSOL". Did they send
> me the wrong MSDS? If so, does anyone have the correct MSDS, as I seem t
o
> be having trouble getting an e-mail response from A/S?
>
> =B7 I previously purchased a NIOSH approved TC-84A-0991 respirator,
as recommended
> by another builder. However, I came across an old post in the archive
> that says this product gives off iso-cyanates when curing. The MSDS also
> mentions cyanosis as an outcome of over-exposure. The instructions with
my
> respirator specifically state that it is not to be used with paints or
> coatings containing iso-cyanate materials. Do I need a different
> respirator, and if so, which one?
>
> =B7 What is the correct reducer that I should be using to thin this
> product, (I also asked this question of A/S, but have not received a
> response)?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dave Van Lanen
>
> Madison, WI
>
> 601XL - stabilizer
>
> ---------------------------------------------
> Paul Mulwitz
> 32013 NE Dial Road
> Camas, WA 98607
> ---------------------------------------------
>
> *
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
===========
> *
>
>
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