Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:16 AM - Re: How to quiet an air compressor? (Martyn Ward)
2. 04:16 AM - Re: How to quiet an air compressor? (Martyn Ward)
3. 05:15 AM - 601 Aileron Lock / Rudder Lock? (Frank Derfler)
4. 05:16 AM - Re: GPS Navigation (Jeffrey A Beachy)
5. 06:02 AM - Re: GPS Navigation (Robert L. Stone)
6. 07:55 AM - Re: 601 Aileron Lock / Rudder Lock? ()
7. 08:29 AM - Re: 601 Aileron Lock / Rudder Lock? (Frank Derfler)
8. 09:24 AM - Cyclo polisher (John Bolding)
9. 10:14 AM - Re: 601 Aileron Lock / Rudder Lock? ()
10. 10:18 AM - 701 Cover (Les Goldner)
11. 10:20 AM - Re: 601 Aileron Lock / Rudder Lock? (Frank Derfler)
12. 11:00 AM - Re: 701 Cover (Rick R)
13. 11:17 AM - Re: 701 Cover (Craig Payne)
14. 12:05 PM - Re: 701 Cover (Rick R)
15. 01:10 PM - Re: Zinc Chromate - MSDS, Respirator, Reducer (lwinger)
16. 03:01 PM - RayAllen Servos (Bob Miller)
17. 03:44 PM - Re: How to quiet an air compressor? (Noel Loveys)
18. 05:01 PM - Re: RayAllen Servos (JAPhillipsGA@aol.com)
19. 05:29 PM - EAA Sport Pilot, Aug. 2006, p.68 What is the story? (AZFlyer)
20. 05:57 PM - Re: EAA Sport Pilot, Aug. 2006, p.68 What is the story? (Craig Payne)
21. 06:09 PM - Re: EAA Sport Pilot, Aug. 2006, p.68 What is the story? (LarryMcFarland)
22. 09:13 PM - Re: EAA Sport Pilot, Aug. 2006, p.68 What is the story? (David X)
23. 09:22 PM - Re: 601 Aileron Lock / Rudder Lock? (David X)
24. 09:50 PM - Re: How to quiet an air compressor? (Dave Thompson)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: How to quiet an air compressor? |
Bon Jour,
I heard that u can use a CO 2 bottle with a regulator for spraying. The
bottles are pressurised around 800 psi and the co2 is anhydrous (no water
trap needed). Best thing is it's quiet!
Do not archive
________________ Original message ________________
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: How to quiet an air compressor?
Author: sperry50@comcast.net
Date: 29th August 2006 9:52:45
I am a single guy with an understanding girlfriend. I am building my plane
poolside on my on my lanai. I put the compressor inside the house and run
the hose out the sliding door to the lanai. Since there is no one in the
house it really doesn't matter too much about the noise. When my girlfriend
is there she knows to expect the compressor to turn on from time to time.
No complaints so far from neighbors or girlfriend! I was married for 25
years and this would NEVER have worked with the wife.
Do not archive
Skip Perry - 601 quick-build
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "Dave Ruddiman" <pacificpainting@comcast.net>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave Ruddiman"
>
> I'm not an expert on the subject, but I'm sure someone is. You probably
have
> one of the diaphragm type of compressors They 'rethe noisiest. That's the
> same I have. I put mine outside in a tool shed behind the shop. Now the
> neighbors have to listen to it. If I were in your situation I would build
a
> box around it and line it with styrofoam board. You might be able to cool
it
> by cutting some louvers in the bottom and some more in the top. Maybe get
a
> small squirrel cage fan or a bathroom fan with some ducting and suck the
air
> from the bottom out the top. The holes might let some noise out but I'm
sure
> it would cut down on the noise considerably. The other thing would be to
get
> a compressor that is belt driven. They still make noise, but not as much
as
> the other type.
> That's my idea. Let's see who can add to it. Good luck on it.
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Todd Osborne"
> To:
> Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 8:53 PM
> Subject: Zenith-List: How to quiet an air compressor?
>
>
> > --> Zenith-List message posted by: Todd Osborne
> >
> > I live in a duplex and my workshop is in the basement. My air
compressor
> > is very loud and I need to find a way to silence it, or at least quiet
it
> > down. Does anyone have any suggestions for how to do this? I have
thought
> > about building an acoustic enclosure, but don't know how to do this
> > without harming the cooling and still letting air get in.
> >
> > --
> > Todd Osborne
> > Internet E-Mail: todd@toddtown.com
> > Web Site: www.toddtown.com
> > MSN (Windows) Messenger: todd@toddtown.com
> > Yahoo! Messenger: ToddMOsborne
> > AOL Instant Messenger: toddosborn@aol.com
> > Skype: toddmosborne
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: How to quiet an air compressor? |
Bon Jour,
I heard that u can use a CO 2 bottle with a regulator for spraying. The
bottles are pressurised around 800 psi and the co2 is anhydrous (no water
trap needed). Best thing is it's quiet!
Do not archive
________________ Original message ________________
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: How to quiet an air compressor?
Author: sperry50@comcast.net
Date: 29th August 2006 9:52:45
I am a single guy with an understanding girlfriend. I am building my plane
poolside on my on my lanai. I put the compressor inside the house and run
the hose out the sliding door to the lanai. Since there is no one in the
house it really doesn't matter too much about the noise. When my girlfriend
is there she knows to expect the compressor to turn on from time to time.
No complaints so far from neighbors or girlfriend! I was married for 25
years and this would NEVER have worked with the wife.
Do not archive
Skip Perry - 601 quick-build
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "Dave Ruddiman" <pacificpainting@comcast.net>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave Ruddiman"
>
> I'm not an expert on the subject, but I'm sure someone is. You probably
have
> one of the diaphragm type of compressors They 'rethe noisiest. That's the
> same I have. I put mine outside in a tool shed behind the shop. Now the
> neighbors have to listen to it. If I were in your situation I would build
a
> box around it and line it with styrofoam board. You might be able to cool
it
> by cutting some louvers in the bottom and some more in the top. Maybe get
a
> small squirrel cage fan or a bathroom fan with some ducting and suck the
air
> from the bottom out the top. The holes might let some noise out but I'm
sure
> it would cut down on the noise considerably. The other thing would be to
get
> a compressor that is belt driven. They still make noise, but not as much
as
> the other type.
> That's my idea. Let's see who can add to it. Good luck on it.
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Todd Osborne"
> To:
> Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 8:53 PM
> Subject: Zenith-List: How to quiet an air compressor?
>
>
> > --> Zenith-List message posted by: Todd Osborne
> >
> > I live in a duplex and my workshop is in the basement. My air
compressor
> > is very loud and I need to find a way to silence it, or at least quiet
it
> > down. Does anyone have any suggestions for how to do this? I have
thought
> > about building an acoustic enclosure, but don't know how to do this
> > without harming the cooling and still letting air get in.
> >
> > --
> > Todd Osborne
> > Internet E-Mail: todd@toddtown.com
> > Web Site: www.toddtown.com
> > MSN (Windows) Messenger: todd@toddtown.com
> > Yahoo! Messenger: ToddMOsborne
> > AOL Instant Messenger: toddosborn@aol.com
> > Skype: toddmosborne
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | 601 Aileron Lock / Rudder Lock? |
Thanks to Klaus and otherswho responded to my original question about gust
locks for the rudder and aileron. I understand that the rudder's movement
it limited by the nosewheel interconnection and that the stick can be
secured in the cockpit. Thanks for the info on using the bungee cord to
hold the stick. I now know to include a bungee in my bag when I go to
Alabama to pick up the airplane.
But, these internal locks don't protect the control surfaces, brackets (as
was pointed out) and cables against sideloads, updrafts, whirlwinds, etc
when the aircraft is tied down. So, here is my specific question: Is the
enough of a gap between the aileron and the wing and between the rudder and
the tail to slide in a screw that would hold together a sandwich of two
wooden pieces that would secure the aileron or rudder? How wide is the
gap? Would a 1/4 inch screw fit easily in the slot? A 1/8 screw?
(As an aside.. don't ever get inspired to make one of these sandwiches out
of pressure treated wood. The PT corrodes aluminum. You need the special
green colored wood used to frame around aluminum windows in residential
construction... in the aviation section of any lumber yard. )
--
Frank Derfler
See my views and reviews at www.derfler.biz
See my information for pilots at www.flyinflorida.com
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: GPS Navigation |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Jeffrey A Beachy <beachyjeff@juno.com>
FYI,
Pilotshop.com in Arizona was offering the 2000C for $695.00 with free
shipping last week. This morning I see it offered for $799.00.
Jeff B.
CH701, 70%
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: GPS Navigation |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Robert L. Stone" <rstone4@hot.rr.com>
Members
Aircraft Spruce & Specialty is now selling the Lowrance Airmap 2000c
for $799.oo. They also have free shipping and no tax so long as you do not
live in California or Georgia
From some of the reply's I received concerning my question about the
error in advertising of the 2000c for $399.oo some of you people seem to
think that I intend to take advantage of this error for my own gain. This
is anything but the truth. I have been doing business with Aircraft Spruce
for over 30 years off and on and have no intention of doing any such thing
and never did. I think they are one of the best aircraft supply houses in
the world and would never do such a thing. I was just interested in finding
out what the laws say about this.
Bob Stone, Harker Heights, Tx
ZodiacXL
------- Original Message -----
From: "Jeffrey A Beachy" <beachyjeff@juno.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 7:13 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: GPS Navigation
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Jeffrey A Beachy <beachyjeff@juno.com>
>
> FYI,
>
> Pilotshop.com in Arizona was offering the 2000C for $695.00 with free
> shipping last week. This morning I see it offered for $799.00.
>
> Jeff B.
> CH701, 70%
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: 601 Aileron Lock / Rudder Lock? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: <dredmoody@cox.net>
Frank, if your plane has the hingless ailerons there is absolutely NO gap at the
wing. If it has a piano hinge for the ailerons, same thing..... no room for
a pin or wire or bolt to pass through vertically to hold the clamp device.
On a 601XL, there is no projection of the wingtip aft alongside the outboard edge
of the aileron, so no luck there either. That leaves the flap at the inboard
edge of the aileron. but the flap skin and its linkage would be put at risk
if you do that, so you are not eliminating a danger.... you're only choosing the
location of the trauma.
Speaking of the flap, what are you planning on doing to protect it? The same stress
on the cables, bellcrank bracket etc. that concerns you reagarding the ailerons
will be at risk on the flap except that the flap has a motor and actuator
arm instead. If the flap can stand the weather, so can an aileron with the
stick strapped in place.
That leaves us with designing some fixed bracket to which the aileron could be
pinned when tied down. I don't like the idea of having such a device that might
be deflected accidently into a position that obstructs aileron movement inflight.
It appears that tieing the stick in place is safe effective and the simplest choice.
Ed
---- Frank Derfler <fderfler@gmail.com> wrote:
> But, these internal locks don't protect the control surfaces, brackets (as
> was pointed out) and cables against sideloads, updrafts, whirlwinds, etc
> when the aircraft is tied down. So, here is my specific question: Is the
> enough of a gap between the aileron and the wing and between the rudder and
> the tail to slide in a screw that would hold together a sandwich of two
> wooden pieces that would secure the aileron or rudder? How wide is the
> gap? Would a 1/4 inch screw fit easily in the slot? A 1/8 screw?
> Frank Derfler
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: 601 Aileron Lock / Rudder Lock? |
Nice reply, Ed. Thanks for your thoughts and your effort! You made the
picture quite clear.
The consensus among Grumman owners is that the flaps are much stronger and
don't have the "play" of the ailerons. It was an easy thing on the Grumman
to put an exterior lock between the aileron and the wing and it works quite
well. I was trying to apply that experience to the 601.
The plane will be based at Marathon in the Florida Keys and the hangar
situation here isn't good. So, it has to be tied out and the wind is a big
worry.
I have often envisioned a kind of long heavy Sunbrella "bag' that would run
from wingtip to wingtip, covering the wing from leading to trailing
edges, with straps on the ends to the tiedowns.
Well, obviously I'm trying to keep myself busy while waiting for delivery.
Thanks for your help, Ed. -- FJD
On 8/30/06, dredmoody@cox.net <dredmoody@cox.net> wrote:
>
> Frank, if your plane has the hingless ailerons there is absolutely NO gap
> at the wing. If it has a piano hinge for the ailerons, same thing..... no
> room for a pin or wire or bolt to pass through vertically to hold the clamp
> device.
>
> On a 601XL, there is no projection of the wingtip aft alongside the
> outboard edge of the aileron, so no luck there either. That leaves the flap
> at the inboard edge of the aileron. but the flap skin and its linkage would
> be put at risk if you do that, so you are not eliminating a danger....
> you're only choosing the location of the trauma.
>
> Speaking of the flap, what are you planning on doing to protect it? The
> same stress on the cables, bellcrank bracket etc. that concerns you
> reagarding the ailerons will be at risk on the flap except that the flap has
> a motor and actuator arm instead. If the flap can stand the weather, so can
> an aileron with the stick strapped in place.
>
> That leaves us with designing some fixed bracket to which the aileron
> could be pinned when tied down. I don't like the idea of having such a
> device that might be deflected accidently into a position that obstructs
> aileron movement inflight.
>
> It appears that tieing the stick in place is safe effective and the
> simplest choice.
>
> Ed
>
> ---- Frank Derfler <fderfler@gmail.com> wrote:
> > But, these internal locks don't protect the control surfaces, brackets
> (as
> > was pointed out) and cables against sideloads, updrafts, whirlwinds, etc
> > when the aircraft is tied down. So, here is my specific question: Is
> the
> > enough of a gap between the aileron and the wing and between the rudder
> and
> > the tail to slide in a screw that would hold together a sandwich of two
> > wooden pieces that would secure the aileron or rudder? How wide is the
> > gap? Would a 1/4 inch screw fit easily in the slot? A 1/8 screw?
>
> > Frank Derfler
>
--
Frank Derfler
See my views and reviews at www.derfler.biz
See my information for pilots at www.flyinflorida.com
Message 8
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All you guys talking about polishing your airplane jogged my memory, I
dug out of the dark corner of the hanger a Cyclo polisher with 6 pr. of
new bonnets. If any of you dudes has an itch for it give me a note off
list. $140. includes shipping. It goes on ebay in 2 days.
LOW&SLOW John Bolding jnbolding1(at)teleshare(dot)net
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: 601 Aileron Lock / Rudder Lock? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: <dredmoody@cox.net>
I feel your pain brother..... I live less than 50 miles from the Gulf in Rayne,
LA so we share a concern for salt air on aluminum. On top of that, I fly from
an airport that has high seasonal ag plane traffic which means corrosive fertilizer
and poisons so I am priming the entire inside of my plane as I build it.
Anything that can't be primed and painted when the plane is finished and anything
that overlaps (like skin joints) is being primed as I go.
The inside of your plane is likely being primed only on mating surfaces unless
you specified otherwise. If there isn't corrosion protection on the entire inside,
I'd suggest something like the Corrosion X system as a safeguard.
Hopefully you folks weren't seriously affected by the storm. My memory of Marathon
Key is that your exposure is pretty extreme despite the relatively large size
of the island.
Best of luck,
Ed
Message 10
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Does anyone know where to get a well fitted cover for a CH701?
I keep my current rag-covered plane in a hanger, but here in the San
Francisco area, where the weather is great, I am thinking that I will
tie-down the 701 outside if I can cover it.
Les
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: 601 Aileron Lock / Rudder Lock? |
There are local FBOs that will Corrosion-X the innards for a little over
$200. Seems like a great investment.
Marathon took a big hit from flooding immediately *after* Hurricane Wilma
passed thru last year. Had a couple of dozen airplanes soaked in salt water
over their wing roots. Everybody was out... thrilled that the wind had
passed by without damage... and then the Bay started to rise. By the time
anyone got cranked up to takoff and escape, the runway had six inches of
water and rising on it. Like they say, "Wind will hurt you, but water will
kill you."
Thanks for the info, Ed. -- FJD
On 8/30/06, dredmoody@cox.net <dredmoody@cox.net> wrote:
>
> I feel your pain brother..... I live less than 50 miles from the Gulf in
> Rayne, LA so we share a concern for salt air on aluminum. On top of that, I
> fly from an airport that has high seasonal ag plane traffic which means
> corrosive fertilizer and poisons so I am priming the entire inside of my
> plane as I build it. Anything that can't be primed and painted when the
> plane is finished and anything that overlaps (like skin joints) is being
> primed as I go.
>
> The inside of your plane is likely being primed only on mating surfaces
> unless you specified otherwise. If there isn't corrosion protection on the
> entire inside, I'd suggest something like the Corrosion X system as a
> safeguard.
>
> Hopefully you folks weren't seriously affected by the storm. My memory of
> Marathon Key is that your exposure is pretty extreme despite the relatively
> large size of the island.
>
> Best of luck,
>
> Ed
>
--
Frank Derfler
See my views and reviews at www.derfler.biz
See my information for pilots at www.flyinflorida.com
Message 12
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I inquired the same of Bruce's Custom Covers. They do not have a template for
a 701 thus they don't offer covers. Let me know if you find anything..preferrably
hail proof...
do not archive
Les Goldner <lgold@quantum-associates.com> wrote:
Does anyone know where to get a well fitted cover for a CH701?
Rick
Sharpsburg, GA. USA
http://www.n701rr.com
Message 13
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But I think Les and Bruce's Custom Covers are both in the SF Bay area. So
they could make a template from Les's plane.
-- Craig
Message 14
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Yea, I spoke with them and they didn't know a 701 was available. They sounded
like he would make a template if he could get his hands on one.......????
do not archive
Craig Payne <craig@craigandjean.com> wrote:
But I think Les and Bruce's Custom Covers are both in the SF Bay area. So
they could make a template from Les's plane.
-- Craig
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Zinc Chromate - MSDS, Respirator, Reducer |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "lwinger" <larrywinger@gmail.com>
Below are the quick answers provided by PTI's President to Dave Van Lanen's questions.
I'm forwarding the Zinc Chromate Primer MSDS to Dave, and will be glad
to do so to anyone who contacts me with a request. We should have real test
data from PTI very soon and I'll be posting that when available.
Q: I asked A/S for an MSDS for the product. The document they sent contained
a product name of "GREEN NON CHROMATE AEROSOL" . Did they send me the wrong MSDS?
If so, does anyone have the correct MSDS, as I seem to be having trouble
getting an e-mail response from A/S ?
A: The msds sent is not the correct one. Please forward the one attached.
Q: I previously purchased a NIOSH approved TC-84A-0991 respirator, as recommended
by another builder. However, I came across an old post in the archive that
says this product gives off iso- cyanates when curing. The MSDS also mentions
cyanosis as an outcome of over-exposure. The instructions with my respirator
specifically state that it is not to be used with paints or coatings containing
iso -cyanate materials. Do I need a different respirator, and if so, which
one ?
A: Zinc chromated coatings do not give off isocyanates -- polyurethanes do.
You need to contact a respirator company that can provide you with guidance
on using a respirator that can filter organic solvents and fumes from paint.
Please note that when zinc chromated primers are formulated the zinc dust
is "wetted" into the coating. There is no exposure to zinc dust when applying
the primer. However, if you sand the cured primer you do run the risk
of inhaling zinc dust particles. If you plan to sand, you should wear an appropriate
respirator or dust mask when doing so. Other protective clothing
to keep the dust off of your skin is also recommended.
Q: What is the correct reducer that I should be using to thin this product , (I
also asked this question of A/S, but have not received a response )?
A: The reducer to use is the PT-1022X66, PT-1003 Type 3.
--------
Larry Winger
Tustin, CA
601XL #6493 from scratch
Rudder clecoed and ready to prime
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=58596#58596
Message 16
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bob Miller" <tutuzulu@gmail.com>
I inherited an out of production Ray Allen servo with my project. I
had a problem with it, and in my amateur "diagnostic" process I smoked
it real good. Sent it back to Ray Allen, got a call right away from
Scot Benzimer there, and he sent me a new current model for
half-price. Said it's their policy, even if the problem was my fault
and they no longer produce the model I had. I got it by priority mail
in a couple days.
Not only a great product, but outstanding service.
--
Bob Miller
601HD N722Z
Charlottesville, Virginia
Message 17
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| Subject: | How to quiet an air compressor? |
That is one of the systems they use for airbrushing. A real plus is
there
are never any water droplets in the paint. and you don't need an
expensive
dryer on the pressure line.
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Martyn Ward
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 8:45 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: How to quiet an air compressor?
Bon Jour,
I heard that u can use a CO 2 bottle with a regulator for spraying. The
bottles are pressurised around 800 psi and the co2 is anhydrous (no
water
trap needed). Best thing is it's quiet!
Do not archive
________________ Original message ________________
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: How to quiet an air compressor?
Author: sperry50@comcast.net
I am a single guy with an understanding girlfriend. I am building my
plane
poolside on my on my lanai. I put the compressor inside the house and
run
the hose out the sliding door to the lanai. Since there is no one in the
house it really doesn't matter too much about the noise. When my
girlfriend
is there she knows to expect the compressor to turn on from time to
time. No
complaints so far from neighbors or girlfriend! I was married for 25
years
and this would NEVER have worked with the wife.
Do not archive
Skip Perry - 601 quick-build
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "Dave Ruddiman" <pacificpainting@comcast.net>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave Ruddiman"
>
> I'm not an expert on the subject, but I'm sure someone is. You
probably
have
> one of the diaphragm type of compressors They 'rethe noisiest. That's
the
> same I have. I put mine outside in a tool shed behind the shop. Now
the
> neighbors have to listen to it. If I were in your situation I would
build
a
> box around it and line it with styrofoam board. You might be able to
cool
it
> by cutting some louvers in the bottom and some more in the top. Maybe
get
a
> small squirrel cage fan or a bathroom fan with some ducting and suck
the
air
> from the bottom out the top. The holes might let some noise out but
I'm
sure
> it would cut down on the noise considerably. The other thing would be
to
get
> a compressor that is belt driven. They still make noise, but not as
much
as
> the other type.
> That's my idea. Let's see who can add to it. Good luck on it.
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Todd Osborne"
> To:
> Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 8:53 PM
> Subject: Zenith-List: How to quiet an air compressor?
>
>
> > --> Zenith-List message posted by: Todd Osborne
> >
> > I live in a duplex and my workshop is in the basement. My air
compressor
> > is very loud and I need to find a way to silence it, or at least
quiet
it
> > down. Does anyone have any suggestions for how to do this? I have
thought
> > about building an acoustic enclosure, but don't know how to do this
> > without harming the cooling and still letting air get in.
> >
> > --
> > Todd Osborne
> > Internet E-Mail: todd@toddtown.com
> > Web Site: www.toddtown.com
> > MSN (Windows) Messenger: todd@toddtown.com
> > Yahoo! Messenger: ToddMOsborne
> > AOL Instant Messenger: toddosborn@aol.com
> > Skype: toddmosborne
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: RayAllen Servos |
Bob, I have to echo what you said. I had a couple problems with switches a
couple years ago and they were really swell. Fixed, repaired and replaced and
several at no cost, no questions. I will buy from them again, just not for a
while I hope. Best regards, Bill of Georgia
N505WP
601XL-3300
Message 19
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| Subject: | EAA Sport Pilot, Aug. 2006, p.68 What is the story? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "AZFlyer" <millrML@AOL.com>
It was recently pointed out to me that certification and operation of an LSA (601
XL) as an Amature built E-LSA could a non-issue or at least, in jepordy of
happening, according to this article on p.68.
I keep re-reading the article, and find it confusing, contradictory, and in general,
very poorly written. It tends to leave more questions than it answers.
Does anyone understand, and can explain what the author is trying to say, other
than "doom and gloom" on the horizon?
I am perhaps half done with the airframe, and expect to fly my 601 early next year,
but if this author's message is 100% accurate, I am at a loss as to how it
will be certified.
Mike
--------
Mike Miller @ millrml@aol.com
601 XL, 3300
Remember, "the second mouse gets the cheese"!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=58651#58651
Message 20
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| Subject: | EAA Sport Pilot, Aug. 2006, p.68 What is the story? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Craig Payne" <craig@craigandjean.com>
In general I find the best way to settle these questions is to call the EAA.
They have yet to fail me.
Is your question "Can I fly it as an E-LSA?" or "Can I fly it at all?".
For most of us the answer is that we will fly as an "Experimental
Amateur-Built Aircraft", *not* as an E-LSA. If you specifically want to fly
as an E-LSA, what is the key reason?
<quote>
(From http://www.sportpilot.org/learn/elsa.html)
Experimental Amateur-Built Aircraft
Experimental amateur-built or "homebuilt" aircraft require that the major
portion of the fabrication and assembly tasks be performed by persons who
are building the aircraft for their own education and recreation. (This is
commonly referred to as the "51% rule".) These aircraft can be flown under
the SP/LSA regulations as long as they meet the definition of a light-sport
aircraft as called out in FAR Part 1.1 (see this page). These aircraft can
be flown for sport or recreation, but can't be used for flight training for
hire or rental. In addition, the maintenance rules for these aircraft have
not changed as a result of the sport pilot regulations.
Some examples of amateur-built or "homebuilt" aircraft that meet the
definition of a LSA include Sonex, Kitfox Model IV, Pietenpol Aircamper, and
the Zenith 601. For a complete listing of homebuilt aircraft that meet the
LSA definition, click here.
<endquote>
The overall article is at
http://www.sportpilot.org/learn/lsa/likely_lsa.html.
-- Craig
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: EAA Sport Pilot, Aug. 2006, p.68 What is the story? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: LarryMcFarland <larry@macsmachine.com>
Mike,
This subject has been beat on quite a bit and the archives will tell you
that the amateur built 601XL (kit or scratch) will be certified as
experimental. The LSA catagory is for those built by the mfr, sold as
LSA and built within standards that allow the aircraft to be
used as a Light Sport Aircraft. The one you build will be an
experimental and if it meets the performance standards of Light Sport
Aircraft
you may also fly the aircraft as a LSA. There's a lot of room for your
aircraft to go either way depending on the engine, prop, weight etc
that you use. If it exceeds any of the performance or weight standards
of LSA, it will only be flown as an experimental by a Private Pilot.
I believe the only benefit to you is the ability to use the Sport Pilot
License to fly the plane if it qualifies as LSA.
Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
Do Not Archive
AZFlyer wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "AZFlyer" <millrML@AOL.com>
>
>It was recently pointed out to me that certification and operation of an LSA (601
XL) as an Amature built E-LSA could a non-issue or at least, in jepordy of
happening, according to this article on p.68.
>
>I keep re-reading the article, and find it confusing, contradictory, and in general,
very poorly written. It tends to leave more questions than it answers.
Does anyone understand, and can explain what the author is trying to say, other
than "doom and gloom" on the horizon?
>
>I am perhaps half done with the airframe, and expect to fly my 601 early next
year, but if this author's message is 100% accurate, I am at a loss as to how
it will be certified.
>
>Mike
>
>--------
>Mike Miller @ millrml@aol.com
>601 XL, 3300
>
>Remember, "the second mouse gets the cheese"!
>
>
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: EAA Sport Pilot, Aug. 2006, p.68 What is the story? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "David X" <dxj@comcast.net>
Any aircraft that meets the LSA limitations - either factory or home built - can
be flown under sport pilot rules. The aircraft limits are: Fixed gear, fixed
or ground adjustable prop, two passengers max and under 1340 lbs gross.
The only real difference in certification between ELSA and Experimental is that
the Experimental must meet the 51% rule whereas the ELSA can be more than 49%
complete when purchased.
The maintenence rules are identitcal for both Experimental and ELSA except that
the owner of an ELSA must attend a repairman's class and pass a test to qualify
to do his own conditional inspection, whereas the home builder can gain a repairman's
certificate without taking a class or test (the successful assembly
of the aircraft is the class).
--------
Zodiac 601 XL - CZAW Built - Rotax 912S
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=58684#58684
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: 601 Aileron Lock / Rudder Lock? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "David X" <dxj@comcast.net>
The two main purposes of the gust lock is to prevent slamming of the control surfaces
against the stops and to prevent the wind from getting a grip on a surface
(especially the elevator) which could flip or roll the aircraft on the ground.
I don't think it would make much difference as far as cable pressures go.
I use two bungee cords with plastic hooks on each end. I hook each cord to a rudder
pedal - one on the left side of the plane, the other on the right side. The
cords are then connected to the stick. This holds the stick in a neutral aileron
position with a full down elevator.
I don't like the idea of blocks on the rudder itself. I think the aileron is much
too fragile for that. The elevator should be full down, so a block won't help
there. The rudder is already dampend by the nose wheel bungee so it's not going
to flop around like the elevator or ailerons might.
--------
Zodiac 601 XL - CZAW Built - Rotax 912S
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=58685#58685
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: How to quiet an air compressor? |
I am a single guy with an understanding girlfriend.
Does you're girlfriend have a sister? :)
Dave Thompson
dave.thompson@verizon.net
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