Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:41 AM - Re: 701 Trim tab (Graeme Bell)
2. 04:57 AM - Removing Rivets (leinad)
3. 06:47 AM - Re: Removing Rivets (Dino Bortolin)
4. 07:30 AM - Re: Removing Rivets (LRM)
5. 08:28 AM - Re: Removing Rivets (Bill Naumuk)
6. 08:40 AM - Solid rivet gun question (Debo Cox)
7. 08:53 AM - CH801 WEB PICTURE GALLERY (Tom)
8. 09:10 AM - Spar question (Bolding)
9. 09:15 AM - Re: CH801 WEB PICTURE GALLERY (ihab.awad@gmail.com)
10. 09:25 AM - Re: Re: Familiarization Flight time--2nd try (JAPhillipsGA@aol.com)
11. 09:33 AM - Re: Solid rivet gun question (JAPhillipsGA@aol.com)
12. 10:03 AM - Re: Spar question (Bill Naumuk)
13. 10:23 AM - Re: Work Table Height (lwinger)
14. 11:23 AM - RE : Re: WEB PICTURE GALLERY (Carlos Sa)
15. 11:25 AM - Re: Solid rivet gun question (Jim Hoak)
16. 11:30 AM - Re: Spar question (Jim Hoak)
17. 11:48 AM - Re: Re: Work Table Height (Bill Naumuk)
18. 12:11 PM - Re: Re: WEB PICTURE GALLERY (George Harris)
19. 12:15 PM - Re: Solid rivet gun question (Dave Ruddiman)
20. 12:15 PM - Re: RE : Re: WEB PICTURE GALLERY (ernie)
21. 12:55 PM - Re: Re: Familiarization Flight time--2nd try (george may)
22. 02:34 PM - Fuselage support (Jaybannist@cs.com)
23. 03:09 PM - Re: Solid rivet gun question (Tim & Diane Shankland)
24. 03:25 PM - Using car polishing compound on 6061-T6 (William Dominguez)
25. 07:52 PM - Brand of Intsruments (4rcsimmons@comcast.net (Rich Simmons))
26. 09:18 PM - Re: Re: WEB PICTURE GALLERY (Gary Gower)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: 701 Trim tab |
I think you will find that rather than add a trim tab the prefered
method is to bend the trailing edge of the aileron for roll wing heavy'
a similar fix for pitch trim is adjust the trailing edge of the elevator
----- Original Message -----
From: nyterminat@aol.com
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, September 23, 2006 12:55 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: 701 Trim tab
I changed the bungee on the elevator cable to the other cable and that
cleared up my left wing heavy condition, simple fix.
Bob Spudis
N701ZX CH701/912S 82hrs
-----Original Message-----
From: savannah174@msn.com
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Fri, 22 Sep 2006 8:22 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: 701 Trim tab
I would like to talk with anyone using a trim tab on the ailerons due
to a wing heavy condition on a CH-701. I've tried twisting the wing via
wing struts, checked rigging, slats all within required tolerances. The
trim tab seems to be the only option left unless one of the 701 Guru's
can come up with another option, thanks
RJ
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2/06/2006
Message 2
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "leinad" <leinad@hughes.net>
First, I'll come clean. I used the wrong rivets in building my main spars. I
found out before assembly the rest of the wing. These were the soft type A rivets
not the required AD rivets.
For those of you interested in technic for removing rivets here's what I use.
First it's hard to get the drill in the center of a domed rivet head. I made a
tool to simplify the job. The tool was just a short thick hex bolt, about 1/2
X 1-1/2 length. I center drilled this out the rivet diameter. On the hex end
I opened the hole up the diameter of the rivet head. You can hold this down
on the rivet head with one hand and drill the head until the hole is started.
This puts it in the center every time. For my spars I made on for the #6 and
one for the #5 size rivets.
Now I just hand hold the drill until I've drill just down to the surface of the
part. Some times the head comes off at this point, some times you have to scrape
it off with a screw driver or chisle.
After removing the head you need to drive the rivet out. I made a punch with a
nail ground flat on the end. The nail should be small enough to fit loosely
in a hole the size of the rivet hole.
Lay the part (spar in my case) flat on the bench and use narrow pieces of wood
adjacent to the rivet you're going to drive out. Now just drive the sucker out.
I used the above method to remove all the rivets from my main spars and the parts
were undamaged.
Dan Dempsey (central VA)
--------
Scratch building XL with Corvair Engine
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=63542#63542
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Removing Rivets |
While we're talking about removing rivets, I was struggling with removing
some A5's from my stabilizer spar; it seems you always need three hands. I
spotted my automatic center punch on the table and found what I think is an
easier method. I've only used it (so far) on pulled rivets on the stab spar,
which is fairly rigid - it may not work well on solid rivets or thinner
material. The steps are:
1. Leave the mandrel in place. Drill the rivet head slowly with the same
size drill as the rivet hole just until the head falls off.
2. Use the automatic center punch to pop the rest of the rivet out. It will
be ejected cleanly and easily. Stubborn ones may take a few hits.
I put a little piece of rubber around the tip of the punch to cushion any
contact between the body of the punch and the aluminum.
Dino Bortolin
La Salle, Ontario
XL/Corvair
On 9/24/06, leinad <leinad@hughes.net> wrote:
>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "leinad" <leinad@hughes.net>
>
> ...
>
> After removing the head you need to drive the rivet out. I made a punch
> with a nail ground flat on the end. The nail should be small enough to fit
> loosely in a hole the size of the rivet hole.
>
> ...
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Removing Rivets |
Since Jon Croke and I are rivet removing experts here is how we do it.
Use an old rivet stem or better yet get the right size drift. It should
be the same as the A5 stem or a little smaller. First punch you stem
down a little with the drift, them drill the head. That's it, nothing
to it. The head will pop off and the base will fall out. Jon has a lot
more experience than me, he probably has removed thousands of rivets.
I've only removed hundreds.
Larry N1345L, www.skyhawg.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Dino Bortolin
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 8:46 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Removing Rivets
While we're talking about removing rivets, I was struggling with
removing some A5's from my stabilizer spar; it seems you always need
three hands. I spotted my automatic center punch on the table and found
what I think is an easier method. I've only used it (so far) on pulled
rivets on the stab spar, which is fairly rigid - it may not work well on
solid rivets or thinner material. The steps are:
1. Leave the mandrel in place. Drill the rivet head slowly with the
same size drill as the rivet hole just until the head falls off.
2. Use the automatic center punch to pop the rest of the rivet out.
It will be ejected cleanly and easily. Stubborn ones may take a few
hits.
I put a little piece of rubber around the tip of the punch to cushion
any contact between the body of the punch and the aluminum.
Dino Bortolin
La Salle, Ontario
XL/Corvair
On 9/24/06, leinad <leinad@hughes.net> wrote:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "leinad" <leinad@hughes.net>
...
After removing the head you need to drive the rivet out. I made a
punch with a nail ground flat on the end. The nail should be small
enough to fit loosely in a hole the size of the rivet hole.
...
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
9/21/2006
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Removing Rivets |
My method for pulled rivets is about the same.
Use the next size bigger drill to pop off the head. Don't push too
hard and you won't do any damage, but the larger diameter bit gives you
more torque.
Drive the mandrel out using the stem of a similar size rivet.
If you have a really stubborn one that can't be pulled out by hand
at this point (Like a rivet going through an extrusion), drill through
the middle using a bit suitable for silver clecos to weaken the walls.
Without the mandrel, you get a straight hole and most of the time, the
remaining rivet will come out while you're drilling. A tap with a center
punch or gentle tug with regular pliers will free the rest.
For solid rivets and spar work, I used my drill press and a roller
stand. Incidentally, when I said in an earlier post that I thought all
spar rivets were ADs, I meant that all rivets used in spars were ADs,
not that all rivets were ADs.
Anyway, if you don't have the dimple in your rivet and want to find
center, use a lathe center drill. These are bits with a huge shank that
tapers down to the final diameter with an extremely short final diameter
bit length. They DON'T creep on you. Attached is a link to a reputable
supplier.
http://www.jlindustrial.com/endeca/searchResults.jsp;jsessionid=DOEGPRY
ARBV5PLAUBIWCFEVMCQFC0IV0?_dyncharset=ASCII&ns=1&Ntt=center+drills&
Ntk=Keyword+Search
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: LRM
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 10:30 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Removing Rivets
Since Jon Croke and I are rivet removing experts here is how we do it.
Use an old rivet stem or better yet get the right size drift. It
should be the same as the A5 stem or a little smaller. First punch you
stem down a little with the drift, them drill the head. That's it,
nothing to it. The head will pop off and the base will fall out. Jon
has a lot more experience than me, he probably has removed thousands of
rivets. I've only removed hundreds.
Larry N1345L, www.skyhawg.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Dino Bortolin
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 8:46 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Removing Rivets
While we're talking about removing rivets, I was struggling with
removing some A5's from my stabilizer spar; it seems you always need
three hands. I spotted my automatic center punch on the table and found
what I think is an easier method. I've only used it (so far) on pulled
rivets on the stab spar, which is fairly rigid - it may not work well on
solid rivets or thinner material. The steps are:
1. Leave the mandrel in place. Drill the rivet head slowly with the
same size drill as the rivet hole just until the head falls off.
2. Use the automatic center punch to pop the rest of the rivet out.
It will be ejected cleanly and easily. Stubborn ones may take a few
hits.
I put a little piece of rubber around the tip of the punch to
cushion any contact between the body of the punch and the aluminum.
Dino Bortolin
La Salle, Ontario
XL/Corvair
On 9/24/06, leinad <leinad@hughes.net> wrote:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "leinad" <leinad@hughes.net>
...
After removing the head you need to drive the rivet out. I made a
punch with a nail ground flat on the end. The nail should be small
enough to fit loosely in a hole the size of the rivet hole.
...
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
Date: 9/21/2006
Message 6
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| Subject: | Solid rivet gun question |
Hi guys,
I'm starting to do a bit of solid riveting with my center spar and outboard wing
spars. I've found that using a pneumatic gun gives me excellent control, and
has me bucking solid rivets like a pro - although I haven't started riveting
the actual parts yet. Here's my question though...
I've been practicing using the "air chisel" that came with my compressor. The
rivet sets have the same .401 shank, and fit into it perfectly. If I crank the
regulator wide open on the tool itself, it will set the rivet almost perfectly
in one or two reasonably short trigger pulls. As long as it does a good job
and doesn't apparantly crack or otherwise damage the rivets, does anyone see
any problem with using my "air chisel" instead of a dedicated "rivet gun?" In
my uneducated perspective, they appear to do almost exactly the same thing, but
I know that the rivet gun hammers more slowly.
Any good solid (no pun intended) advice on this would be appreciated. I'd rather
not buy a tool to do exactly the same thing as the one I've got if there's
no difference. And yes, I know a hammer will work too. I'm just looking for information
from someone who knows more than I do about the subject. Build on my
brothers!
Debo Cox
XL/Corvair
Working on wing spars
---------------------------------
Message 7
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| Subject: | CH801 WEB PICTURE GALLERY |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Tom" <tomp@cogeco.ca>
I'm trying GOOGLE web photo gallery which was very simple to use and upload my
plane pictures to using GOOGLE's Picasa photo software. I think this would help
with people on dial-up so if anyone is on dial-up let me know how things look.
Go to my updated website!
--------
Tom CH801
http://tompizza.webhop.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=63582#63582
Message 8
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bolding" <jnbolding1@teleshare.net>
Time:>Those "A" rivets sure were easy to set though weren't they?
>
>I'm glad you caught this. It would have been a bad situation if you hadn't.
>I know of a Thorpe T-18 that came apart in flight because the builder did
>the same thing but no one caught it!
>
>Jim Hoak
Unfortunatly this HAD been pointed out to him but he ignored it, it is reported
that he used words to the effect " Won't make any difference, this airplane is
so overbuilt....." The joint is question was between the center section and
outer panels and called for Hi-Shear rivets, he used regular AD's. That joint
was analyzed after the accident and was found to be good for less than 2 G's
so friction between the two surfaces was helping out a bunch. Unfortunatly it
happened in front of the crowd at Osh and the FOOL did a steep pullup with a
teenage girl as a passenger. Next door neighbor built TWO T18's from scratch and
presented all this info at a chapter meeting 20-25 yrs ago, have no clue why
I remember this , can't remember what I had for breakfast. Low & Slow John
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: CH801 WEB PICTURE GALLERY |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: ihab.awad@gmail.com
Hi Tom & all,
On 9/24/06, Tom <tomp@cogeco.ca> wrote:
> I'm trying GOOGLE web photo gallery which was very simple to use ...
I concur -- I use it all the time and it's great. One other helpful
Googley thing is GMail, which is a Web based email program that
automatically shows image attachments as "thumbnails" allowing you to
decide whether or not you want to download the whole thing. You need
an "invitation" to join GMail but, if anyone on this list wants one,
just shoot me an email -- I have a bunch to give out. Hope this helps.
Ihab
--
Ihab A.B. Awad, Palo Alto, CA
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Familiarization Flight time--2nd try |
George, if you crap out in New York your welcome to come to Georgia and fly
my XL, Best of Luck, Bill of Georgia
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Solid rivet gun question |
Debo, the difference in the two hammer guns is that the gun designed for
riveting has a variable speed trigger that allows the user a smack or two
(depending on control techniques) with gentle pull and that can be important when
starting a rivet in a difficult location. On the other hand, an air chisel has
only the one speed, full blast, Best of luck, Bill
do not archive
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Spar question |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk@alltel.net>
Just to make sure- the HDS plans call for standard ADs, right? Or did I miss
something?
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bolding" <jnbolding1@teleshare.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 12:09 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Spar question
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bolding" <jnbolding1@teleshare.net>
>
> Time:>Those "A" rivets sure were easy to set though weren't they?
>>
>>I'm glad you caught this. It would have been a bad situation if you
>>hadn't.
>>I know of a Thorpe T-18 that came apart in flight because the builder did
>>the same thing but no one caught it!
>>
>>Jim Hoak
>
> Unfortunatly this HAD been pointed out to him but he ignored it, it is
> reported that he used words to the effect " Won't make any difference,
> this airplane is so overbuilt....." The joint is question was between the
> center section and outer panels and called for Hi-Shear rivets, he used
> regular AD's. That joint was analyzed after the accident and was found to
> be good for less than 2 G's so friction between the two surfaces was
> helping out a bunch. Unfortunatly it happened in front of the crowd at Osh
> and the FOOL did a steep pullup with a teenage girl as a passenger. Next
> door neighbor built TWO T18's from scratch and presented all this info at
> a chapter meeting 20-25 yrs ago, have no clue why I remember this , can't
> remember what I had for breakfast. Low & Slow John
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Work Table Height |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "lwinger" <larrywinger@gmail.com>
Thanks to you guys for the responses. My conclusion is that I will keep my worktable
at a comfortable height for work on the wings and control surfaces, and
either shorten them as I get into the fuselage work or, more likely, construct
a 601XL version of Larry MacFarland's cruciform jig.
I don't want to send anyone scurrying to their workshop, but I never actually received
the physical dimension from worktable surface to the top of the highest
part of the assembled fuselage (before placing it on mains). I'd still be interested
if anyone has that measurement.
--------
Larry Winger
Tustin, CA
601XL #6493 from scratch
Stabilizer skeleton ready to rivet
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=63603#63603
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: WEB PICTURE GALLERY |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Carlos Sa <carlosfsa@yahoo.com>
Yahoo mail also presents a thumbnail, like Gmail - but in a dumb way: first, the
image file is
downloaded to the user's PC; only then it gets reduced in size (actually, by the
browser).
So Yahoo isn't a solution for people with dial up.
Also, many ISPs allow you to get your email with a browser (MS IE, Firefox, etc.).
This may be a good alternative.
Carlos
CH601-HD, plans
All skins for one outboard wing polished. Assembly is next.
--- ihab.awad@gmail.com a crit :
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: ihab.awad@gmail.com
> ... One other helpful
> Googley thing is GMail, which is a Web based email program that
> automatically shows image attachments as "thumbnails" allowing you to
> decide whether or not you want to download the whole thing. You need
> an "invitation" to join GMail but, if anyone on this list wants one,
> just shoot me an email -- I have a bunch to give out. Hope this helps.
>
> Ihab
>
__________________________________________________________
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Solid rivet gun question |
Debo,
Just my opinion, but I believe a trained one, Bill Phillips is mostly
correct about the rivet guns versus Air Hammers. In certain situations,
an Air Hammer will get you by, but it would be a shame to have a mess up
at the end of a long line of rivets because the shooter couldn't control
that last blap! I'm not saying you can't do it because I'm sure it has
been done with a Air Hammer before. The big thing is no damage to the
metal ( deformed ) and the rivet isn't cracked or overshot at the bucked
tail. Maybe you can borrow a good 3X gun from someone. You have to be
pleased with the results and the process that gets you there. Good luck
- have fun.
do not archive
Jim Hoak 601HD Rotax 912UL 530 hrs.
----- Original Message -----
From: Debo Cox
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 11:36 AM
Subject: [Norton AntiSpam] Zenith-List: Solid rivet gun question
Hi guys,
I'm starting to do a bit of solid riveting with my center spar and
outboard wing spars. I've found that using a pneumatic gun gives me
excellent control, and has me bucking solid rivets like a pro - although
I haven't started riveting the actual parts yet. Here's my question
though...
I've been practicing using the "air chisel" that came with my
compressor. The rivet sets have the same .401 shank, and fit into it
perfectly. If I crank the regulator wide open on the tool itself, it
will set the rivet almost perfectly in one or two reasonably short
trigger pulls. As long as it does a good job and doesn't apparantly
crack or otherwise damage the rivets, does anyone see any problem with
using my "air chisel" instead of a dedicated "rivet gun?" In my
uneducated perspective, they appear to do almost exactly the same thing,
but I know that the rivet gun hammers more slowly.
Any good solid (no pun intended) advice on this would be appreciated.
I'd rather not buy a tool to do exactly the same thing as the one I've
got if there's no difference. And yes, I know a hammer will work too.
I'm just looking for information from someone who knows more than I do
about the subject. Build on my brothers!
Debo Cox
XL/Corvair
Working on wing spars
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Spar question |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jim Hoak" <planejim@bellsouth.net>
John,
Thanks for the memory jogger about the T-18. That was the same incident I
was recalling with some errors. Shame it happened.
do not archive
Jim Hoak
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bolding" <jnbolding1@teleshare.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 12:09 PM
Subject: [Norton AntiSpam] Zenith-List: Spar question
>
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Work Table Height |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk@alltel.net>
Larry-
That dimension would be in the plans, unless you misworded your
question. Think about it.
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: "lwinger" <larrywinger@gmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 1:21 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Work Table Height
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "lwinger" <larrywinger@gmail.com>
>
> Thanks to you guys for the responses. My conclusion is that I will keep
> my worktable at a comfortable height for work on the wings and control
> surfaces, and either shorten them as I get into the fuselage work or, more
> likely, construct a 601XL version of Larry MacFarland's cruciform jig.
>
> I don't want to send anyone scurrying to their workshop, but I never
> actually received the physical dimension from worktable surface to the top
> of the highest part of the assembled fuselage (before placing it on
> mains). I'd still be interested if anyone has that measurement.
>
> --------
> Larry Winger
> Tustin, CA
> 601XL #6493 from scratch
> Stabilizer skeleton ready to rivet
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=63603#63603
>
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: WEB PICTURE GALLERY |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "George Harris" <george@customcals.com>
Net friends,
As a response to the pcture uploading dilemma facing dial-up users and
others who don't want to be force-fed large files, I have installed a photo
gallery application on my Aeroinsanity webspace. It is at
http://www.aeroinsanity.com/gallery2/main.php . It is free. It is offered as
a gift to the online builder community.
This app will let you create your own user accounts, and then create as many
photo albums as you want. You can then simply include a link to the gallery
in your emails.
The site uses thumbnails, and is devoid of any pop-ups, advertising, or any
other nonsense that would slow down picture loading. No user-entered
information will ever be used for anything.
I have about 3 gig of space so that should last a while. Please don't
upload anything offensive. Feel free to log in and play around with the
gallery features. It's pretty nice really. You don't have to register to
view the uploaded files either.
In case you don't know who or what I am, I lurk on several exp lists, mainly
Zenith/Corvair/KR. I'm hosting John Kearney's Corvair instrumentation pages
too, at http://www.aeroinsanity.com/corvair/datalogger/ .
Feel free to email me any questions at george AT customcals.com. If you do,
or don't like the gallery I'd appreciate some feedback.
Oh, by the way, there's a classifieds application too, at
http://aeroinsanity.com/classifieds/ - can't promise much traffic though,
unless folks start using it.
Thanks,
George Harris
Casa Grande, AZ
EAA 0571660
EAA Chapter 1217
--
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Solid rivet gun question |
Debo,
I have an old 3X rivet gun you can use. It's just sitting in the drawer.
I can send it to you if you want it.
Dave in Salem
801
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Hoak
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 11:24 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Solid rivet gun question
Debo,
Just my opinion, but I believe a trained one, Bill Phillips is mostly
correct about the rivet guns versus Air Hammers. In certain situations,
an Air Hammer will get you by, but it would be a shame to have a mess up
at the end of a long line of rivets because the shooter couldn't control
that last blap! I'm not saying you can't do it because I'm sure it has
been done with a Air Hammer before. The big thing is no damage to the
metal ( deformed ) and the rivet isn't cracked or overshot at the bucked
tail. Maybe you can borrow a good 3X gun from someone. You have to be
pleased with the results and the process that gets you there. Good luck
- have fun.
do not archive
Jim Hoak 601HD Rotax 912UL 530 hrs.
----- Original Message -----
From: Debo Cox
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 11:36 AM
Subject: [Norton AntiSpam] Zenith-List: Solid rivet gun question
Hi guys,
I'm starting to do a bit of solid riveting with my center spar and
outboard wing spars. I've found that using a pneumatic gun gives me
excellent control, and has me bucking solid rivets like a pro - although
I haven't started riveting the actual parts yet. Here's my question
though...
I've been practicing using the "air chisel" that came with my
compressor. The rivet sets have the same .401 shank, and fit into it
perfectly. If I crank the regulator wide open on the tool itself, it
will set the rivet almost perfectly in one or two reasonably short
trigger pulls. As long as it does a good job and doesn't apparantly
crack or otherwise damage the rivets, does anyone see any problem with
using my "air chisel" instead of a dedicated "rivet gun?" In my
uneducated perspective, they appear to do almost exactly the same thing,
but I know that the rivet gun hammers more slowly.
Any good solid (no pun intended) advice on this would be
appreciated. I'd rather not buy a tool to do exactly the same thing as
the one I've got if there's no difference. And yes, I know a hammer will
work too. I'm just looking for information from someone who knows more
than I do about the subject. Build on my brothers!
Debo Cox
XL/Corvair
Working on wing spars
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: WEB PICTURE GALLERY |
http://picasa.google.com/
you can post web albums.
Do not Archive
On 9/24/06, Carlos Sa <carlosfsa@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Carlos Sa <carlosfsa@yahoo.com>
>
> Yahoo mail also presents a thumbnail, like Gmail - but in a dumb way:
> first, the image file is
> downloaded to the user's PC; only then it gets reduced in size (actually,
> by the browser).
> So Yahoo isn't a solution for people with dial up.
>
> Also, many ISPs allow you to get your email with a browser (MS IE,
> Firefox, etc.).
> This may be a good alternative.
>
> Carlos
> CH601-HD, plans
> All skins for one outboard wing polished. Assembly is next.
>
> --- ihab.awad@gmail.com a =E9crit :
>
> > --> Zenith-List message posted by: ihab.awad@gmail.com
> > ... One other helpful
> > Googley thing is GMail, which is a Web based email program that
> > automatically shows image attachments as "thumbnails" allowing you to
> > decide whether or not you want to download the whole thing. You need
> > an "invitation" to join GMail but, if anyone on this list wants one,
> > just shoot me an email -- I have a bunch to give out. Hope this helps.
> >
> > Ihab
> >
>
>
> __________________________________________________________
> L=E8che-vitrine ou l=E8che-=E9cran ?
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Familiarization Flight time--2nd try |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "george may" <gfmjr_20@hotmail.com>
Thanks Bill, Georgia would be really nice at this time of year
George
do not archive
>From: JAPhillipsGA@aol.com
>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Zenith-List: RE: Familiarization Flight time--2nd try
>Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2006 12:22:23 EDT
>
>George, if you crap out in New York your welcome to come to Georgia and fly
>my XL, Best of Luck, Bill of Georgia
_________________________________________________________________
All-in-one security and maintenance for your PC. Get a free 90-day trial!
http://clk.atdmt.com/MSN/go/msnnkwlo0050000001msn/direct/01/?href=http://www.windowsonecare.com/?sc_cid=msn_hotmail
Message 22
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| Subject: | Fuselage support |
To other builders, wiser than me and further along than me:
I am at a point on my XL fuselage where I need to do work on the bottom, from
underneath. The fuselage is now supported as shown in the photo guide: one
support at the tail, two sawhorses (crosswise), two steel beans (lengthwise)
and the required shims. The beams and shims prevent access to some of the rivet
lines and especially access to the main gear channel.
I am thinking about leaving the support at the tail (possibly lowered) and
using two crosswise supports, one just forward of the wing spar center section
and one just forward or aft of the rear wing channel (I haven't riveted the
channel to the floor as yet). I certainly don't want to put stresses in the
fuselage where they would be detrimental. If these points are acceptable, it
would be very helpful to have recommended relative heights for these points above
some common datum.
Suggestions for other support schemes that might be easier or better would be
welcomed.
I have also sent this message to ZAC, but don't expect a straight answer.
Jay in Dallas, working on fuselage N2630J
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Solid rivet gun question |
I have been following this thread for some time. I also made my own
spars several; years ago now. I did the riveting by hand by making
fixture similar to those you can buy. I bought a :"socket " that fit the
rivet head and a "C clamp " fixture that held a rod that rested on the
worked end of the rivet. I found it took two blows with a heavy hammer,
once I had that figured out it was just put in the rivet bang bang and
on to the next. I think I drilled out two or three rivets in total for
all three spars.
Tim Shankland
Debo Cox wrote:
> Hi guys,
>
> I'm starting to do a bit of solid riveting with my center spar and
> outboard wing spars. I've found that using a pneumatic gun gives me
> excellent control, and has me bucking solid rivets like a pro -
> although I haven't started riveting the actual parts yet. Here's my
> question though...
>
> I've been practicing using the "air chisel" that came with my
> compressor. The rivet sets have the same .401 shank, and fit into it
> perfectly. If I crank the regulator wide open on the tool itself, it
> will set the rivet almost perfectly in one or two reasonably short
> trigger pulls. As long as it does a good job and doesn't apparantly
> crack or otherwise damage the rivets, does anyone see any problem with
> using my "air chisel" instead of a dedicated "rivet gun?" In my
> uneducated perspective, they appear to do almost exactly the same
> thing, but I know that the rivet gun hammers more slowly.
>
> Any good solid (no pun intended) advice on this would be appreciated.
> I'd rather not buy a tool to do exactly the same thing as the one I've
> got if there's no difference. And yes, I know a hammer will work too.
> I'm just looking for information from someone who knows more than I do
> about the subject. Build on my brothers!
>
> Debo Cox
> XL/Corvair
> Working on wing spars
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Using car polishing compound on 6061-T6 |
I just tried car polishing compound on the aluminum in order to remove corrosion
and those pesky white spots caused by sweat and it removed it without
leaving scratches. I then used denatured alcohol to remove the compound and the
material was left pretty shiny. I used scrap material. I would like to know
if this is acceptable and if there is any risk that this may cause any further
problem in the long run. Im planning to order Alumiprep 33 if this method
is not acceptable.
William Dominguez
Zodiac 601 XL Plans
www.ea-report.com (on hold)
Message 25
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| Subject: | Brand of Intsruments |
Hey folks,
To those of you who replied on my question of gauges for the 601 Thanks!
Now, another! What about Brands! Falcon, UMA, Allen, Sigma Tek, or any others?
What is good and what is junk?
I would like to hear some opinions/experiences since I dont really have a history
with these coponents.
--
Thanks again,
Rich Simmons
I am getting ready to close the Left wong for my 601 XL. I will be done by the
end of the week and then I will start the R/H! :)
<html><body>
<DIV>Hey folks,</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>To those of you who replied on my question of gauges for the 601 Thanks!</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Now, another! What about Brands! Falcon, UMA, Allen, Sigma Tek, or any
others? What is good and what is junk?</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I would like to hear some opinions/experiences since I dont really have a
history with these coponents.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV class=signature id=signature>--<BR>Thanks again, <BR>Rich Simmons</DIV>
<DIV class=signature> </DIV>
<DIV class=signature>I am getting ready to close the Left wong for my 601 XL. I
will be done by the end of the week and then I will start the R/H!
:)</DIV>
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre></body></html>
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: WEB PICTURE GALLERY |
Thanks a lot George, We appreciate that, hope to beguin using the pages soon.
Saludos
Gary Gower
Flying from Chapala, Mexico.
Do not archive.
George Harris <george@customcals.com> wrote: --> Zenith-List message posted by:
"George Harris"
Net friends,
As a response to the pcture uploading dilemma facing dial-up users and
others who don't want to be force-fed large files, I have installed a photo
gallery application on my Aeroinsanity webspace. It is at
http://www.aeroinsanity.com/gallery2/main.php . It is free. It is offered as
a gift to the online builder community.
This app will let you create your own user accounts, and then create as many
photo albums as you want. You can then simply include a link to the gallery
in your emails.
The site uses thumbnails, and is devoid of any pop-ups, advertising, or any
other nonsense that would slow down picture loading. No user-entered
information will ever be used for anything.
I have about 3 gig of space so that should last a while. Please don't
upload anything offensive. Feel free to log in and play around with the
gallery features. It's pretty nice really. You don't have to register to
view the uploaded files either.
In case you don't know who or what I am, I lurk on several exp lists, mainly
Zenith/Corvair/KR. I'm hosting John Kearney's Corvair instrumentation pages
too, at http://www.aeroinsanity.com/corvair/datalogger/ .
Feel free to email me any questions at george AT customcals.com. If you do,
or don't like the gallery I'd appreciate some feedback.
Oh, by the way, there's a classifieds application too, at
http://aeroinsanity.com/classifieds/ - can't promise much traffic though,
unless folks start using it.
Thanks,
George Harris
Casa Grande, AZ
EAA 0571660
EAA Chapter 1217
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