Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:47 AM - Re: Spar question (R.P.)
2. 05:01 AM - Soild rivet gun question (summary) (Debo Cox)
3. 05:52 AM - Re: Skyshop Electric Flaps for CH 701 (Jeffrey A Beachy)
4. 06:08 AM - Re: Removing Rivets (Noel Loveys)
5. 08:34 AM - Continental 0-200 A Engine Questions (nick@aoaircrafters.com)
6. 09:42 AM - Re: Continental 0-200 A Engine Questions (ALAN BEYER)
7. 10:02 AM - Re: Riveting oneself into a corner (dbortol)
8. 10:53 AM - Wings to Adventure and Zenith Music (2thesky)
9. 12:19 PM - Places hard to rivet (Robert L. Stone)
10. 01:30 PM - Fuselage support (Jaybannist@cs.com)
11. 01:47 PM - 701 header tank air vent (Geoff Heap)
12. 03:31 PM - Replacing rivets with bolts (George Swinford)
13. 03:32 PM - Re: Places hard to rivet (Bill Naumuk)
14. 03:42 PM - Re: Spar question (Bill Naumuk)
15. 04:08 PM - Re: Places hard to rivet (Paul Mulwitz)
16. 04:48 PM - Re: Replacing rivets with bolts (J2j3h4@aol.com)
17. 05:29 PM - Re: Replacing rivets with bolts (Bill Naumuk)
18. 05:32 PM - Fitting 601HDS Stabilizer to 601XL (Ron Lalonde)
19. 05:32 PM - Fitting 601HDS Stabilizer to 601XL (Ron Lalonde)
20. 06:01 PM - Re: Fitting 601HDS Stabilizer to 601XL (Bryan Martin)
21. 07:31 PM - 601xl wing kit for sale (Hudsonmusic1@aol.com)
22. 07:45 PM - Re: Spar question (Dave Ruddiman)
23. 07:49 PM - Re: Fitting 601HDS Stabilizer to 601XL (Ron Lalonde)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Spar question |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "R.P." <zodie@adelphia.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk@alltel.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 10:01 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Spar question
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk@alltel.net>
>
> Just to make sure- the HDS plans call for standard ADs, right? Or did I
> miss something?
> Bill Naumuk
No Bill, you didn't miss anything. Those are AN470-AD Rivets.
Keep on building :)
Rick Pitcher
601HD, w/HDS outer wing panel project sitting on the shelf waiting...
Message 2
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| Subject: | Soild rivet gun question (summary) |
Thanks for all of the knowledgeable and insightful answers to my questions about
a rivet gun vs. an air chisel. Just to wrap this up and enter it into the archives
for the next builder, here's what appears to be the consensus.
An air chisel is a perfectly acceptable alternative to a traditional rivet gun,
but with you lose a little in the deal. A traditional rivet gun has a more
controllable trigger which allows you better control over the process. It also
works better if you're trying to start a rivet in a difficult spot. More control
equals less potential damage to other parts or mis-driven rivets.
On the other hand, if you're using a c-frame riveter or some other method of
holding your rivet sets firmly in place and you're just looking for the hammering
action itself, an air chisel (or air hammer as some guys called it) will do
the job just fine. The drawback of the air chisel is that it's an "on" or "off"
trigger - no variable rate, so the potential to over-drive your rivets might
be slightly magnified.
I wanted to thank Dave Ruddiman too for his generous offer to let me try out
his 3X rivet gun. These things ain't cheap, and I appreciate the offer. He's going
to ship it to me and I'm going to give it a try. I've said it before - nobody
builds an airplane alone.
Debo Cox
XL/Corvair
Working on wing spars
---------------------------------
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Skyshop Electric Flaps for CH 701 |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Jeffrey A Beachy <beachyjeff@juno.com>
Jim,
I ended up mounting my actuator on top of the channel similarly to how
you describe your setup. I have the position sensor on top of the
actuator, but may move it higher to match the exact distance of the
sensor. Good luck on your first flight!
Jeff
Message 4
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I use a pin punch of the correct size to remove mandrels. the steel in
the
punch is harder than the shank of a rivet and there is less chance of
slipping and damaging a hole.
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Naumuk
Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 12:58 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Removing Rivets
My method for pulled rivets is about the same.
Use the next size bigger drill to pop off the head. Don't push too
hard
and you won't do any damage, but the larger diameter bit gives you more
torque.
Drive the mandrel out using the stem of a similar size rivet.
If you have a really stubborn one that can't be pulled out by hand
at
this point (Like a rivet going through an extrusion), drill through the
middle using a bit suitable for silver clecos to weaken the walls.
Without
the mandrel, you get a straight hole and most of the time, the remaining
rivet will come out while you're drilling. A tap with a center punch or
gentle tug with regular pliers will free the rest.
For solid rivets and spar work, I used my drill press and a roller
stand. Incidentally, when I said in an earlier post that I thought all
spar
rivets were ADs, I meant that all rivets used in spars were ADs, not
that
all rivets were ADs.
Anyway, if you don't have the dimple in your rivet and want to find
center, use a lathe center drill. These are bits with a huge shank that
tapers down to the final diameter with an extremely short final diameter
bit
length. They DON'T creep on you. Attached is a link to a reputable
supplier.
http://www.jlindustrial.com/endeca/searchResults.jsp;jsessionid=DOEGPRY
ARBV5
PLAUBIWCFEVMCQFC0IV0?_dyncharset=ASCII
<http://www.jlindustrial.com/endeca/searchResults.jsp;jsessionid=DOEGPR
YARBV
5PLAUBIWCFEVMCQFC0IV0?_dyncharset=ASCII&ns=1&Ntt=center+drills&Ntk=
Keyword+S
earch> &ns=1&Ntt=center+drills&Ntk=Keyword+Search
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: LRM <mailto:lrm@skyhawg.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 10:30 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Removing Rivets
Since Jon Croke and I are rivet removing experts here is how we do it.
Use
an old rivet stem or better yet get the right size drift. It should be
the
same as the A5 stem or a little smaller. First punch you stem down a
little
with the drift, them drill the head. That's it, nothing to it. The
head
will pop off and the base will fall out. Jon has a lot more experience
than
me, he probably has removed thousands of rivets. I've only removed
hundreds.
Larry N1345L, www.skyhawg.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Dino <mailto:dbortol@gmail.com> Bortolin
Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 8:46 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Removing Rivets
While we're talking about removing rivets, I was struggling with
removing
some A5's from my stabilizer spar; it seems you always need three hands.
I
spotted my automatic center punch on the table and found what I think is
an
easier method. I've only used it (so far) on pulled rivets on the stab
spar,
which is fairly rigid - it may not work well on solid rivets or thinner
material. The steps are:
1. Leave the mandrel in place. Drill the rivet head slowly with the
same
size drill as the rivet hole just until the head falls off.
2. Use the automatic center punch to pop the rest of the rivet out. It
will
be ejected cleanly and easily. Stubborn ones may take a few hits.
I put a little piece of rubber around the tip of the punch to cushion
any
contact between the body of the punch and the aluminum.
Dino Bortolin
La Salle, Ontario
XL/Corvair
On 9/24/06, leinad <leinad@hughes.net> wrote:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "leinad" <leinad@hughes.net>
...
After removing the head you need to drive the rivet out. I made a punch
with a nail ground flat on the end. The nail should be small enough to
fit
loosely in a hole the size of the rivet hole.
...
_____
Message 5
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| Subject: | Continental 0-200 A Engine Questions |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: nick@aoaircrafters.com
I have a Zodiac 601 HD with a Continental 0-200 A engine. The engine
installation is about 25% complete.
Two questions:
--Do you have problems with oil cooling? If so, what provisions are
made for oil cooling?
--Do you have problems with aircraft weight and balance (i.e. the
Continental 0-200 engine's weight as opposed to other possible models).
If so what is generally done to correct the wieght and balance problem?
Thanks guys,
~Nick
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Continental 0-200 A Engine Questions |
Nick,
A friend of mine just finished an HD with a Corvair engine. He has a light battery
(about 15 Lbs.) located behind the seats. With it in that location the
forward CG limit was too far forward. We moved it as far back in the fuselage
as we could. A small hinged door in the bottom of the fuselage was installed.
With the extra length of battery cables and mounting Brk's. for the battery
we gained 5 Lbs. The CG limits now come out perfect. This lowered the weight
on the nose wheel by 40 #s.
Al
nick@aoaircrafters.com wrote:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: nick@aoaircrafters.com
I have a Zodiac 601 HD with a Continental 0-200 A engine. The engine
installation is about 25% complete.
Two questions:
--Do you have problems with oil cooling? If so, what provisions are
made for oil cooling?
--Do you have problems with aircraft weight and balance (i.e. the
Continental 0-200 engine's weight as opposed to other possible models).
If so what is generally done to correct the wieght and balance problem?
Thanks guys,
~Nick
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Riveting oneself into a corner |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "dbortol" <dbortol@gmail.com>
I just felt like drawing something. See the attached photo (30KB).
Dino Bortolin
La Salle, Ontario
XL/Corvair
dpfisher(at)scottsbluff.n wrote:
> Hi Tommy,
>
> Try grinding the dimpled face of your nose piece at a 15 degree angle and
> then redimple it, or you can accomplish the same thing by making a
> separate angled and dimpled attachment to slip over the rivet stem before
> you pull it. You can then angle the riveter into the corner while the
> crooked nose piece gives you a flush set on the rivet. The rivet stem will
> be pulled at an angle but you'll get a straight set on the rivet.
>
> Dave, 701 with A80-8 Continental
>
> At 12:58 AM 5/27/2006, you wrote:
>
> > *
> >
> > If you look at the attached picture, you can see where my problem is. I can't
> > get the two holes in the 7F12-4 Gusset riveted. The problem is caused by the
> > 15 degree angle in the 7F5-2SP Side Channel.
> >
> >
>
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=63757#63757
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/angle_riveting_assembly_860.jpg
Message 8
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| Subject: | Wings to Adventure and Zenith Music |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "2thesky" <biggerspurs@hotmail.com>
Earlier, I watched "Wings to Adventure" on the OUtdoor channel, just like I do
every Monday. I noticed that some of the music is the same music that is on the
Zenith DVD. My wife instantly commented that I had watched the Zenith DVD
too much. Anyway, pretty trivial. I just thought it was interesting.
do not archive
--------
Every takeoff is optional, but every landing is mandatory!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=63761#63761
Message 9
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| Subject: | Places hard to rivet |
Members,
Has anyone ever thought of just using a small (Same shaft diameter
as the rivet) bolt, two washers and a lock nut in place of the rivet. I
don't think there are very many places where this problem will crop up
therefore not much extra weight will be added and the nut and bolt will
be just as strong if not stronger than the rivet.
Bob Stone, Harker Heights, Tx
ZodiacXL DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 10
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| Subject: | Fuselage support |
I sent you all and ZAC a request for help on changing the support of my
fuselage to allow better access from below. I thought my question was pretty
clear.
The response from ZAC: "Can you send photos?" I clearly said that it was
supported the way the photo guide said to support it. Any way, I did send
photos, so the jury is out on ZAC help. I'll keep you informed.
Jay in Dallas, working on XL fuselage
Message 11
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| Subject: | 701 header tank air vent |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Geoff Heap" <stol10@comcast.net>
Hi Guys.
How do I terminate the vent line that comes up from the header tank. Does it get
tied off at a high point inside the wing? Plug it into a high point in the wing
tank wall? Exit the front of the wing to get "ram air???? I'm going to call
ZAC later but I want to check what the guys on the list did. I know that Johann
and Jari at least have this configuration.
On another note. My Dual sticks are coming along nicely and I am past the prototype
stage. Finished parts are in place and full movement of the sticks transfers
through the proper linkages. I've still got some adjustments to make but the
configuration seems to be fine. It's the same as the old 601 config that I've
seen. Everything is mounted on the seat front and all movements transfer through
the seat front. Nothing protrudes above the top of the seat. There are no
changes to the original center stick setup parts. I use them as supplied. That
means that it can be converted back easily. I'm happily married and want to
keep it that way so I only work on the weekends, so it's going kinda slow. I'll
post pics when I'm done.......Geoff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=63791#63791
Message 12
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| Subject: | Replacing rivets with bolts |
Bob:
This question came up a few months ago, and I posted some comments at
that time. You are right, the bolt is substantially stronger than the
AD rivet of the same diameter. Your wing won't be any stronger though,
since most of the fasteners will still be rivets which will fail before
the bolt can really do its share.
The issue to consider is the fatigue resistance of the spar. A driven
or squeezed rivet expands to fill its hole and puts the material
surrounding the hole in compression, which tends to keep fatigue cracks
from starting. An AN bolt in a drilled hole doesn't have the same
effect. Under normal operating stresses the material surrounding the
bolt feels as though there is nothing in the hole, and it experiences
fluctuating tensile stress. Fluctuating tensile stress tends to start
fatigue cracks.
To keep the fatigue quality equivalent to a rivet, drill the hole
slightly undersize and ream it to the actual (measured) diameter of the
bolt. Bolts in the standard AN bolt series (AN3, AN4 etc) have a fairly
wide tolerance on diameter, so the nominal diameter is misleading. What
you want is a fit which is close (or tight) enough that the bolt has to
be tapped into place, not just pushed in with the fingers. Reaming also
makes sure that the hole is really round, so the bolt is in contact with
all the material around the hole.
For the few bolts involved it might be a good move to invest in close
tolerance bolts in the AN173 series. They have the same strength as AN3
etc, but the diameter is closely controlled.
I have taken my own advice on this issue, using close tolerance bolts in
reamed holes on my CH601 HD spars, where the factory-built spars needed
additional fasteners.
George
zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2006 12:17 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Places hard to rivet
Members,
Has anyone ever thought of just using a small (Same shaft
diameter as the rivet) bolt, two washers and a lock nut in place of the
rivet. I don't think there are very many places where this problem will
crop up therefore not much extra weight will be added and the nut and
bolt will be just as strong if not stronger than the rivet.
Bob Stone, Harker Heights, Tx
ZodiacXL DO NOT ARCHIVE
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
9/22/2006
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Places hard to rivet |
This approach is in the archives.
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert L. Stone
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2006 3:17 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Places hard to rivet
Members,
Has anyone ever thought of just using a small (Same shaft
diameter as the rivet) bolt, two washers and a lock nut in place of the
rivet. I don't think there are very many places where this problem will
crop up therefore not much extra weight will be added and the nut and
bolt will be just as strong if not stronger than the rivet.
Bob Stone, Harker Heights, Tx
ZodiacXL DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Spar question |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk@alltel.net>
R.P-
Good. I just received a product from ACS with their bar code stock label
calling out a different grade than that of the manufacturer's. It's getting
scary. Like going in for a colonoscopy and coming out with a colonectomy!
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: "R.P." <zodie@adelphia.net>
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2006 7:46 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Spar question
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "R.P." <zodie@adelphia.net>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk@alltel.net>
> To: <zenith-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 10:01 AM
> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Spar question
>
>
>> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk@alltel.net>
>>
>> Just to make sure- the HDS plans call for standard ADs, right? Or did I
>> miss something?
>> Bill Naumuk
>
> No Bill, you didn't miss anything. Those are AN470-AD Rivets.
> Keep on building :)
>
> Rick Pitcher
> 601HD, w/HDS outer wing panel project sitting on the shelf waiting...
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Places hard to rivet |
Bob,
I prefer to use a modified riveter to squeeze into tight
spaces. This is not too hard to produce. I just ground an angle of
perhaps 30 degrees in the front of a riveter nose piece and then
ground a hollow in the hole to make the rounded rivet head. I only
used this in a few places, so the cosmetic finish in the hole to form
rivet heads didn't seem important.
The tools I used for this were a belt grinder to make the bevel on
the riveter nose piece and a Dremel tool with a round cutter and/or
stone for the concave feature.
It seems crazy to pull a rivet stem into a place where the stem must
bend some 30 degrees to set the rivet. Indeed it works just fine.
One issue to consider when putting bolts in places hard to reach for
riveting. How hard will it be to inspect the bolts in the future to
see they are properly torqued?
Paul
XL fuselage
At 12:17 PM 9/25/2006, you wrote:
>Members,
> Has anyone ever thought of just using a small (Same shaft
> diameter as the rivet) bolt, two washers and a lock nut in place of
> the rivet. I don't think there are very many places where this
> problem will crop up therefore not much extra weight will be added
> and the nut and bolt will be just as strong if not stronger than the rivet.
>
>Bob Stone, Harker Heights, Tx
>ZodiacXL DO NOT ARCHIVE
-
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Replacing rivets with bolts |
How about drilling and tapping the hole using the recommended tap drill
size? When you tighten up the nut on the steel bolt it will deform the threads
in the aluminum to give you a very tight fit. Radical, I know, so feel free
to disagree. Also, don't call me if your wings fall off.
Jim Hasper
In a message dated 9/25/2006 5:33:52 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
grs-pms@comcast.net writes:
Bob:
This question came up a few months ago, and I posted some comments at that
time. You are right, the bolt is substantially stronger than the AD rivet of
the same diameter. Your wing won't be any stronger though, since most of the
fasteners will still be rivets which will fail before the bolt can really do
its share.
The issue to consider is the fatigue resistance of the spar. A driven or
squeezed rivet expands to fill its hole and puts the material surrounding the
hole in compression, which tends to keep fatigue cracks from starting. An AN
bolt in a drilled hole doesn't have the same effect. Under normal operating
stresses the material surrounding the bolt feels as though there is nothing
in the hole, and it experiences fluctuating tensile stress. Fluctuating
tensile stress tends to start fatigue cracks.
To keep the fatigue quality equivalent to a rivet, drill the hole slightly
undersize and ream it to the actual (measured) diameter of the bolt. Bolts in
the standard AN bolt series (AN3, AN4 etc) have a fairly wide tolerance on
diameter, so the nominal diameter is misleading. What you want is a fit which
is close (or tight) enough that the bolt has to be tapped into place, not
just pushed in with the fingers. Reaming also makes sure that the hole is
really round, so the bolt is in contact with all the material around the hole.
For the few bolts involved it might be a good move to invest in close
tolerance bolts in the AN173 series. They have the same strength as AN3 etc,
but
the diameter is closely controlled.
I have taken my own advice on this issue, using close tolerance bolts in
reamed holes on my CH601 HD spars, where the factory-built spars needed
additional fasteners.
George
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Replacing rivets with bolts |
Jim-
If you don't have the clearance room to rivet, how in the heck are
you going to tap a straight hole?
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: J2j3h4@aol.com
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2006 7:46 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Replacing rivets with bolts
How about drilling and tapping the hole using the recommended tap
drill size? When you tighten up the nut on the steel bolt it will
deform the threads in the aluminum to give you a very tight fit.
Radical, I know, so feel free to disagree. Also, don't call me if your
wings fall off.
Jim Hasper
In a message dated 9/25/2006 5:33:52 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
grs-pms@comcast.net writes:
Bob:
This question came up a few months ago, and I posted some comments
at that time. You are right, the bolt is substantially stronger than
the AD rivet of the same diameter. Your wing won't be any stronger
though, since most of the fasteners will still be rivets which will fail
before the bolt can really do its share.
The issue to consider is the fatigue resistance of the spar. A
driven or squeezed rivet expands to fill its hole and puts the material
surrounding the hole in compression, which tends to keep fatigue cracks
from starting. An AN bolt in a drilled hole doesn't have the same
effect. Under normal operating stresses the material surrounding the
bolt feels as though there is nothing in the hole, and it experiences
fluctuating tensile stress. Fluctuating tensile stress tends to start
fatigue cracks.
To keep the fatigue quality equivalent to a rivet, drill the hole
slightly undersize and ream it to the actual (measured) diameter of the
bolt. Bolts in the standard AN bolt series (AN3, AN4 etc) have a fairly
wide tolerance on diameter, so the nominal diameter is misleading. What
you want is a fit which is close (or tight) enough that the bolt has to
be tapped into place, not just pushed in with the fingers. Reaming also
makes sure that the hole is really round, so the bolt is in contact with
all the material around the hole.
For the few bolts involved it might be a good move to invest in
close tolerance bolts in the AN173 series. They have the same strength
as AN3 etc, but the diameter is closely controlled.
I have taken my own advice on this issue, using close tolerance
bolts in reamed holes on my CH601 HD spars, where the factory-built
spars needed additional fasteners.
George
Message 18
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| Subject: | Fitting 601HDS Stabilizer to 601XL |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Ron Lalonde" <rlalonde@hotmail.com>
Has anyone any idea about how hard it would be to retrofit an already
fabricated 601HDS stabilator to a 601XL fuselage. Apparently the attach
fittings would have to be wider.
Is this possible?
RON
Message 19
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| Subject: | Fitting 601HDS Stabilizer to 601XL |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Ron Lalonde" <rlalonde@hotmail.com>
Has anyone any idea about how hard it would be to retrofit an already
fabricated 601HDS stabilIizer to a 601XL fuselage. Apparently the attach
fittings would have to be wider.
Is this possible?
RON
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Fitting 601HDS Stabilizer to 601XL |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Bryan Martin <bryanmmartin@comcast.net>
Both models use the same stabilizer and rudder so it should fit.
On Sep 25, 2006, at 8:30 PM, Ron Lalonde wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Ron Lalonde"
> <rlalonde@hotmail.com>
>
> Has anyone any idea about how hard it would be to retrofit an
> already fabricated 601HDS stabilator to a 601XL fuselage.
> Apparently the attach fittings would have to be wider.
>
> Is this possible?
> RON
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
do not archive.
Message 21
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| Subject: | 601xl wing kit for sale |
I am selling my 601xl factory wing kit and empanage kit. The empanage is
finished. The flaps are done and the right aileron is done and I am working on
the
left aileron. The rest of the wing kit is untouched. Options include; landing
light, strobe kit, wing baggage locker and aileron trim. All recommended
tools included from Zenith also. I have the pneumatic and hand riveter. I have
about 10k invested in this. Asking $5500.00 and you pick it up. I live in
central Ky. Phone # home- 502-857-2218 Cell # 502-316-3372. Thanks, Jeff
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Spar question |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave Ruddiman" <pacificpainting@comcast.net>
As long as 2 cute nurses put you to sleep, who cares what they do.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk@alltel.net>
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2006 3:40 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Spar question
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk@alltel.net>
>
> R.P-
> Good. I just received a product from ACS with their bar code stock
> label calling out a different grade than that of the manufacturer's. It's
> getting scary. Like going in for a colonoscopy and coming out with a
> colonectomy!
> Bill Naumuk
> HDS Fuselage
> Townville, Pa
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "R.P." <zodie@adelphia.net>
> To: <zenith-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Monday, September 25, 2006 7:46 AM
> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Spar question
>
>
>> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "R.P." <zodie@adelphia.net>
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk@alltel.net>
>> To: <zenith-list@matronics.com>
>> Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 10:01 AM
>> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Spar question
>>
>>
>>> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk@alltel.net>
>>>
>>> Just to make sure- the HDS plans call for standard ADs, right? Or did I
>>> miss something?
>>> Bill Naumuk
>>
>> No Bill, you didn't miss anything. Those are AN470-AD Rivets.
>> Keep on building :)
>>
>> Rick Pitcher
>> 601HD, w/HDS outer wing panel project sitting on the shelf waiting...
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Fitting 601HDS Stabilizer to 601XL |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Ron Lalonde" <rlalonde@hotmail.com>
Hi Bryan
That is what I had read in the literature and on the website.
Apparently there has to be some modifications made since the 601XL fuselage
is a bit wider. I was told this by a fella at the factory. .
Ron
>
>Both models use the same stabilizer and rudder so it should fit.
>
>On Sep 25, 2006, at 8:30 PM, Ron Lalonde wrote:
>
>>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Ron Lalonde" <rlalonde@hotmail.com>
>>
>>Has anyone any idea about how hard it would be to retrofit an already
>>fabricated 601HDS stabilator to a 601XL fuselage. Apparently the attach
>>fittings would have to be wider.
>>
>>Is this possible?
>>RON
>
>
>--
>Bryan Martin
>N61BM, CH 601 XL,
>RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
>do not archive.
>
>
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