Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:06 AM - Re: GSC propeller and CH701 (Gary Gower)
2. 04:11 AM - Re: Rough cut (Gordon)
3. 06:02 AM - Re: Off Topic - Aircraft Leaseback (Chris In Madison)
4. 06:15 AM - ()
5. 06:53 AM - Transporting aluminum sheet? (Matt Stecher)
6. 07:22 AM - Re: Transporting aluminum sheet? (Robert Schoenberger)
7. 07:22 AM - Re: Transporting aluminum sheet? (Graham Kirby)
8. 07:42 AM - Re: Transporting aluminum sheet? (Gary Boothe)
9. 08:26 AM - Re: Transporting aluminum sheet? (Bill Naumuk)
10. 08:53 AM - Re: Transporting aluminum sheet? (Monty Graves)
11. 09:32 AM - Polishing technique found? (Bill Naumuk)
12. 09:41 AM - Rough Cut (The Minearts)
13. 11:05 AM - Photos of the 1st "Mid-Atlantic Light Sport Aircraft Show" (jim@pellien.com)
14. 12:30 PM - when to rivet the fuselage? (ken smith)
15. 12:57 PM - Re: Transporting aluminum sheet? (Wade Jones)
16. 01:01 PM - dual sticks in 601XL (Wade Jones)
17. 01:02 PM - Re: Rough cut (Bryan Martin)
18. 01:10 PM - Re: when to rivet the fuselage? (Bryan Martin)
19. 01:16 PM - Re: dual sticks in 601XL (Bryan Martin)
20. 01:47 PM - Re: Photos of the 1st "Mid-Atlantic Light Sport Aircraft Show" (Paul Mulwitz)
21. 01:57 PM - Inspiration (Zodie Rocket)
22. 02:04 PM - Re: Transporting aluminum sheet? (Clyde Barcus)
23. 02:08 PM - Re: dual sticks in 601XL (Edward Moody II)
24. 02:11 PM - Re: dual sticks in 601XL (Sigmo@aol.com)
25. 02:20 PM - Re: dual sticks in 601XL (Jaybannist@cs.com)
26. 02:20 PM - Re: dual sticks in 601XL (Craig Payne)
27. 02:23 PM - Re: dual sticks in 601XL (Craig Payne)
28. 02:54 PM - CH701 inboard flaperon root rib question (John Marzulli)
29. 02:59 PM - SERFI (Rodney Mills)
30. 03:13 PM - Re: Inspiration (TxDave)
31. 03:40 PM - Re: dual sticks in 601XL (Paul Mulwitz)
32. 03:56 PM - Re: Re: Off Topic - Aircraft Leaseback (Mike)
33. 04:16 PM - Re: Inspiration (Craig Payne)
34. 04:25 PM - Rough Cut-Polishing progress real time (Bill Naumuk)
35. 04:26 PM - Re: dual sticks in 601XL (Tim Juhl)
36. 04:33 PM - Re: dual sticks in 601XL (Zodie Rocket)
37. 04:36 PM - Re: Inspiration (Zodie Rocket)
38. 04:48 PM - RE : Rough Cut-Polishing progress real time (Carlos Sa)
39. 05:31 PM - Stupid question: mounting the horizontal stab. (Craig Payne)
40. 05:44 PM - Re: Changed out gear plates on HDS (Jim Hoak)
41. 06:05 PM - Re: BAD ALUM on Market. (Christian Tremblay)
42. 06:18 PM - Re: dual sticks in 601XL (Edward Moody II)
43. 07:27 PM - Re: Re: Inspiration (Wade Jones)
44. 07:33 PM - Re: N329F Update (Jim Fosse)
45. 07:43 PM - Inspection plates (Dave Ruddiman)
46. 08:08 PM - PIA depicted (Bill Naumuk)
47. 09:11 PM - Re: Inspection plates (Craig Payne)
48. 09:21 PM - Re: Inspection plates (Dave Ruddiman)
49. 09:32 PM - Re: Inspection plates (Craig Payne)
50. 09:34 PM - Re: Inspection plates (Dave Ruddiman)
51. 09:51 PM - Re: Inspection plates (Paul Mulwitz)
52. 09:52 PM - Re: Changed out gear plates on HDS (Gary Boothe)
53. 10:10 PM - Re: Inspection plates (Dave Ruddiman)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: GSC propeller and CH701 |
Hello Jari and group,
Here in our Club, in the hangar next door, there is a Falcon XP (canard) that
originally came with a 503 (Rotax 2 cycle) and a GSC 3 blade, Later the engine
was changed for a 582 for better performance in our altitude, with the same
GSC propeller. The GSC flew the airplane for several years... The pilots
flys a lot, even during the week days.
The propeller was a pusher and twice a year was repaired for the damage of little
stones and dirt abrasion, barnished and balanced. Club self imposed rule
for wooden props). worked OK until the engine was replaced by the actual 618
that came with an Ivo (I think).
The prop is now in the wall, but stil in good shape, (No serious damage during
its life) Could work if needed.
I like wooden propellers, in my ultralights I carved my own. But they need some
love and care (normal damage repair, barnish, balance, cleaning and waxing)
as needed. Same as the aircraft...
Our 701 has the composite propeller from the kit, also gets cleaned and inspected
every flying day. No repairs needed yet,
Jari Kaija <jari.kaija@pp.inet.fi> wrote: --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jari
Kaija"
> sorry for the bad report.
This didn't sound good at all! Yes, this is a brand new one.
If this is a really true problem with this propeller, I will let
it stay on the wall as an ornament.
Any other owners?
---------------------------------
Message 2
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I have a small vintage Airstream trailer that I restored a few years
ago. I polished the entire trailer to a mirror finish with Nuvite C and
S. I probably should have used the G6 in some of the rough areas to save
time and arms, but I was able to cut through some very pitted and
corroded aluminum with the C. I learned to use it very sparingly as the
instructions state and work small areas of about 2' x 2'. The Nuvite
gets thicker as you work it and seems to do most of the cutting at the
end of it's life as it gets drier. I continue working the area until the
nuvite almost disappears and you can start to see shinny aluminum. There
is a lot of information about polishing aluminum on any number of
Vintage Airstream sites like this one:
http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=3
Gordon
CH701
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Naumuk
To: zenith list
Sent: Friday, September 29, 2006 8:15 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Rough cut
All-
Having a heck of a time making the first polish cut through the
crud on my skins.
I have G6, C, and S Nuvite, but they don't cut it (Pun intended).
I'm not worried about cleaning things up afterwards, but can't find a
rough enough grit for the first pass.
I tried automotive polishing compound (Dupont) and it's about the
same as Nuvite C. Carlos, I know you do everything with Mother's- is it
"Rough enough" for a first pass?
I'm going to try Dupont automotive rubbing compound tomorrow if no
one has a better suggestion.
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Off Topic - Aircraft Leaseback |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Chris In Madison" <cowens@cnw.com>
Hi Mike,
Are you an AOPA member? Lots of leaseback info on first glance. I'm not familiar
with the process, so can't comment. However a quick search of "leaseback"
returned 88 results.
Best regards,
Chris
--------
Chris Owens
Waunakee, WI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=64797#64797
Message 4
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Message 5
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| Subject: | Transporting aluminum sheet? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Matt Stecher" <mrcc1234@sbcglobal.net>
I am picking up my first aluminum order from a local supplier here in
Houston on Monday and am wondering how to load it without damaging it.
I will be receiving (5 - 12'x4') 2-016, 1-025, 1-032 & 1-040. Trident
Metals has the best rates (total $344) I have seen especially since I don't
have to worry about shipping (which was $150 from Yarde).
I am thinking that I will just roll them up together, wrap them in a soft
blanket and place straps around it to hold it.
Will this work?
How tight a radius can the 40 be wrapped to without taking a set?
I am making a long clamp out of 2 - 5'x2"x1/2" boards that I sandwich around
the short edge of the sheet stack with wing nuts and bolts (wrapped to
protect the sheets). The overhanging ends of which can help start the
rolling process and perhaps use as a handle to carry the roll.
I don't have a trailer and can hopefully get them all home safe in the back
of our Durango.
Thanks,
Matt in Katy, TX
601XL/Corvair - Starting the Tail Group
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Transporting aluminum sheet? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Robert Schoenberger <hrs1@frontiernet.net>
This isn't a direct answer to your immediate problem. But wear safety
glasses when rolling and unrolling long sheets, particularly when you
unroll them. Best done with two persons, one on each side of the roll,
both wearing safety glasses natch. There's a lot of spring like force
in a tightly rolled piece of aluminum. FWIW Robert Schoenberger 701
do not archive.
Matt Stecher wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Matt Stecher" <mrcc1234@sbcglobal.net>
>
> I am picking up my first aluminum order from a local supplier here in
> Houston on Monday and am wondering how to load it without damaging it.
>
> I will be receiving (5 - 12'x4') 2-016, 1-025, 1-032 & 1-040. Trident
> Metals has the best rates (total $344) I have seen especially since I don't
> have to worry about shipping (which was $150 from Yarde).
>
> I am thinking that I will just roll them up together, wrap them in a soft
> blanket and place straps around it to hold it.
>
> Will this work?
> How tight a radius can the 40 be wrapped to without taking a set?
>
> I am making a long clamp out of 2 - 5'x2"x1/2" boards that I sandwich around
> the short edge of the sheet stack with wing nuts and bolts (wrapped to
> protect the sheets). The overhanging ends of which can help start the
> rolling process and perhaps use as a handle to carry the roll.
>
> I don't have a trailer and can hopefully get them all home safe in the back
> of our Durango.
>
> Thanks,
> Matt in Katy, TX
> 601XL/Corvair - Starting the Tail Group
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Transporting aluminum sheet? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Graham Kirby" <gk@601hd.com>
Matt,
Don't know how tightly you can roll the 040 but if I was you I'd roll it as
loosely as possible to fit in the back of the car. You don't gain anything
from rolling it tightly and you risk it bending. I would suggest putting a
strip of masking tape over each on the short edges that are inside the roll
and using a layer of newspaper between each sheet. I hate it when rolled
metal gets scratched! You might also consider rolling the 016 and 025
together and the 032 and 040 separately. When your done you should be able
to put the rolls inside one another. A single coiled spring of that much
aluminum can be a pretty vicious beastie.
Good Luck,
Graham Kirby
601HD
---------
I am picking up my first aluminum order from a local supplier here in
Houston on Monday and am wondering how to load it without damaging it.
I will be receiving (5 - 12'x4') 2-016, 1-025, 1-032 & 1-040. Trident
Metals has the best rates (total $344) I have seen especially since I don't
have to worry about shipping (which was $150 from Yarde).
I am thinking that I will just roll them up together, wrap them in a soft
blanket and place straps around it to hold it.
Will this work?
How tight a radius can the 40 be wrapped to without taking a set?
Matt in Katy, TX
Message 8
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| Subject: | Transporting aluminum sheet? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Gary Boothe" <gboothe@calply.com>
Matt,
I don't know about your supplier, but I have dealt with two different
suppliers and both are happy to do the rolling for me. They usually protect
the inside 4' edge with cardboard and lay a sheet of paper over the metal so
that it doesn't roll metal to metal.
If you are only buying 4' of .40 I doubt that you can roll it. It is
possible to roll 8', as Graham said, though it will be a loose roll. The
others would probably fit inside.
Ditto to what the others said, get help when un-rolling.
Gary Boothe
Cool, CA
601 HDSTD, WW Conversion
Tail done, wings done, working on c-section
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Stecher
Sent: Saturday, September 30, 2006 6:52 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Transporting aluminum sheet?
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Matt Stecher" <mrcc1234@sbcglobal.net>
I am picking up my first aluminum order from a local supplier here in
Houston on Monday and am wondering how to load it without damaging it.
I will be receiving (5 - 12'x4') 2-016, 1-025, 1-032 & 1-040. Trident
Metals has the best rates (total $344) I have seen especially since I don't
have to worry about shipping (which was $150 from Yarde).
I am thinking that I will just roll them up together, wrap them in a soft
blanket and place straps around it to hold it.
Will this work?
How tight a radius can the 40 be wrapped to without taking a set?
I am making a long clamp out of 2 - 5'x2"x1/2" boards that I sandwich around
the short edge of the sheet stack with wing nuts and bolts (wrapped to
protect the sheets). The overhanging ends of which can help start the
rolling process and perhaps use as a handle to carry the roll.
I don't have a trailer and can hopefully get them all home safe in the back
of our Durango.
Thanks,
Matt in Katy, TX
601XL/Corvair - Starting the Tail Group
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Transporting aluminum sheet? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk@alltel.net>
Matt-
I have the scars to prove that you have to be careful when you unroll a
sheet. Stupid me, I was wearing shorts when I did it. Just a brush from an
edge to my shin. Didn't think anything more of it until I looked down and
noticed I was bleeding like a stuck pig. Still looks like I was in a sword
fight!
I've worn glasses since I was 3 years old, so eye protection is a given.
Needless to say, watch the rest of you.
Don't roll anything larger than .025, period. Get the supplier to cut
the sheet to what will fit in your Durango but still work with the plans. A
radius large enough to keep from damaging a sheet of .040 will never fit in
your vehicle anyway.
I could care less if anyone flames me, I consider this good advice based
on painful experience.
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Stecher" <mrcc1234@sbcglobal.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 30, 2006 9:52 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Transporting aluminum sheet?
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Matt Stecher" <mrcc1234@sbcglobal.net>
>
> I am picking up my first aluminum order from a local supplier here in
> Houston on Monday and am wondering how to load it without damaging it.
>
> I will be receiving (5 - 12'x4') 2-016, 1-025, 1-032 & 1-040. Trident
> Metals has the best rates (total $344) I have seen especially since I
> don't
> have to worry about shipping (which was $150 from Yarde).
>
> I am thinking that I will just roll them up together, wrap them in a soft
> blanket and place straps around it to hold it.
>
> Will this work?
> How tight a radius can the 40 be wrapped to without taking a set?
>
> I am making a long clamp out of 2 - 5'x2"x1/2" boards that I sandwich
> around
> the short edge of the sheet stack with wing nuts and bolts (wrapped to
> protect the sheets). The overhanging ends of which can help start the
> rolling process and perhaps use as a handle to carry the roll.
>
> I don't have a trailer and can hopefully get them all home safe in the
> back
> of our Durango.
>
> Thanks,
> Matt in Katy, TX
> 601XL/Corvair - Starting the Tail Group
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Transporting aluminum sheet? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Monty Graves <mgraves@usmo.com>
The .040 can be rolled to about 36-40 inch diameter, don't press your
luck. My supply house would not roll .040. So I did it myself on their
floor duck taped it all the way around, and then they would band
it........ same with .016, They didn't want to take the responsibilty
of damaging the heavier .040, and the thinner .016
A little smaller on the .032,
And the .025 and .016 down to 24 inches......
Have them roll it, and band it for you. Then you can slide the tubes
inside each other and get it home if you work it right. 2 sheets of .025
can be rolled together. 3 sheets of .016 can be banded together. Thats
about all you can lift at one time anyway without help.
Monty Graves
At 08:52 AM 9/30/2006 -0500, you wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Matt Stecher" <mrcc1234@sbcglobal.net>
>
>I am picking up my first aluminum order from a local supplier here in
>Houston on Monday and am wondering how to load it without damaging it.
>
>I will be receiving (5 - 12'x4') 2-016, 1-025, 1-032 & 1-040. Trident
>Metals has the best rates (total $344) I have seen especially since I don't
>have to worry about shipping (which was $150 from Yarde).
>
>I am thinking that I will just roll them up together, wrap them in a soft
>blanket and place straps around it to hold it.
>
>Will this work?
>How tight a radius can the 40 be wrapped to without taking a set?
>
>I am making a long clamp out of 2 - 5'x2"x1/2" boards that I sandwich around
>the short edge of the sheet stack with wing nuts and bolts (wrapped to
>protect the sheets). The overhanging ends of which can help start the
>rolling process and perhaps use as a handle to carry the roll.
>
>I don't have a trailer and can hopefully get them all home safe in the back
>of our Durango.
>
>Thanks,
>Matt in Katy, TX
>601XL/Corvair - Starting the Tail Group
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Polishing technique found? |
All-
This seems to work in my case, which is probably atypical-
1. Wet sand with 1200 Grit wet or dry. Someone advised 1000, then
1500, and I split the difference. For those who don't know, wet sanding
is sticking a piece of wet or dry sandpaper in a sanding block (The all
rubber 3M is my favorite), dipping the block in a bucket of water, and
having at it. Messy, but quiet and environmentally friendly.
2. Use a rotary polisher with G6 to bring up a shine. Repeat step 1
as necessary.
3. When satisfied the grungy spots are gone, repeat using C or S and
an orbital polisher.
It's a bitch, but to my mind preferable to spending months painting.
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
Message 12
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I spoke with the rep for Nuvite at OSH, and he recommended starting with
the F-9 grit to work out the mill finish, that the finer grades only
fill the small scratches from the mill, rather than cutting them out.
Interestingly, he said that the non-clad alloys need more work to get to
the finished look, but then it is more durable than with clad.
Steve Mineart
zenvair 601xl
do not archive
Message 13
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| Subject: | Photos of the 1st "Mid-Atlantic Light Sport Aircraft Show" |
You're invited to view photos taken by Kate Brennan of the 1st "Mid-Atlantic Light
Sport Aircraft Show" at the Bryce Resort in Basye, VA on 16-17 Sept 2006.
You're invited to view these photos online at KODAK EASYSHARE Gallery!
Just click on View Photos to get started.
http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=e5jq1lf.qf28z5f&x=1&y=og71b0
If you'd like to save this album, just sign in, or
if you're new to the Gallery, create a free account. Once you've
signed in, you'll be able to view this album whenever you want
and order Kodak prints of your favorite photos.
Enjoy!
Instructions: Click view photos to begin. If you're
an existing member you'll be asked to sign in. If not, you can
join the Gallery for free.
http://www.kodakgallery.com/Register.jsp
Questions? Visit http://help.kodakgallery.com.
------------------------------------------------------------
EASYSHARE Gallery Customer Service
Phone: (800) 360-9098
Outside the US and Canada: (512) 651-9770
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If you cannot see the links above, copy and paste the
following URL directly into your browser:
http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=e5jq1lf.qf28z5f&x=1&y=og71b0
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You're invited to view photos taken by Kate Brennan of the 1st "Mid-Atlantic
Light Sport Aircraft Show" at the Bryce Resort in Basye, VA on
16-17 Sept 2006.
<br/>
<br/>
<div style="margin-top:20px;">- Jim Pellien</div>
<br/>
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<font face="verdana" size="2">
<center>
<div><strong>Bryce Airshow 2006</strong></div>
(1 album)
<br>
</center>
</font>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td colspan="5"><img width="1" height="10" border="0" src="http://www.kodakgallery.com/images/invisible.gif" /></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><img width="10" height="1" border="0" src="http://www.kodakgallery.com/images/invisible.gif" /></td>
<td colspan="4">
<table width="560" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" style="border:1px
solid #d6d6d6">
<tr>
<td colspan="4" bgcolor="#f4f4f4" style="border-bottom:1px solid #d6d6d6">
<font face="verdana" size="2">
<strong>Do more with these photos!</strong>
</font>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="center"><img src="http://www.kodakgallery.com/images/share/prints_96x96.jpg" /></td>
<td align="center"><img src="http://www.kodakgallery.com/images/share/collage_96x96.jpg" /></td>
<td align="center"><img src="http://www.kodakgallery.com/images/share/minibook_cover.jpg" /></td>
<td align="center"><img src="http://www.kodakgallery.com/images/share/mug_96x96.jpg" /></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="center"><font face="verdana" size="1">
<a href="http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?t=PrintsOverview.jsp&c=e5jq1lf.qf28z5f&x=1&y=og71b0">
Buy Kodak prints</a>
</font></td>
<td align="center"><font face="verdana" size="1">
<a href="http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?t=CollageOverview.jsp&c=e5jq1lf.qf28z5f&x=1&y=og71b0">
Create a collage</a>
</font></td>
<td align="center"><font face="verdana" size="1">
<a href="http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?t=MiniBookOverview.jsp&c=e5jq1lf.qf28z5f&x=1&y=og71b0">
Create a mini photo book</a>
</font></td>
<td align="center"><font face="verdana" size="1">
<a href="http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?t=GiftStoreOverview.jsp&c=e5jq1lf.qf28z5f&x=1&y=og71b0">
Create mugs</a>
</font></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td colspan="4"><img width="1" height="5" border="0" src="http://www.kodakgallery.com/images/invisible.gif" /></td>
</tr>
</table>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td colspan="5"><img width="1" height="10" border="0" src="http://www.kodakgallery.com/images/invisible.gif" /></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><img width="15" height="1" border="0" src="http://www.kodakgallery.com/images/invisible.gif" /></td>
<td colspan="4">
<table width="100%">
<tr>
<td align="right"><img width="197" height="32" border="0" src="http://www.kodakgallery.com/images/share/KESG_email_en_US.gif" /></td>
</tr>
</table>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td colspan="5"><img width="1" height="5" border="0" src="http://www.kodakgallery.com/images/invisible.gif" /></td>
</tr>
</table>
<table width="585" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0" bgcolor="#c1d4ea" style="border-top:
1px solid #fff;">
<tr>
<td bgcolor="#d6d6d6" width="100%">
<img width="585" height="13" border="0" src="http://www.kodakgallery.com/images/share/sharealbum_bar.gif" /></td>
</tr>
</table>
<table width="585" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" border="0">
<tr>
<td><img width="1" height="10" border="0" src="http://www.kodakgallery.com/images/invisible.gif" /></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<font face="verdana" size="1">
<div>If you can't see the link, copy and paste the following directly into
your browser:</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 10px">http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=e5jq1lf.qf28z5f&x=1&y=og71b0</div>
<div>Questions? Visit <a href="http://www.kodakgallery.com/Help.jsp">http://www.kodakgallery.com/Help.jsp</a>.</div>
</font>
</td>
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<tr>
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<div style="margin-top: 10px">
<font face="verdana" size="1">
© 2006 Kodak Imaging Network, Inc. All rights reserved. KODAK EASYSHARE
Gallery is trademark of Eastman Kodak Company.
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<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre></body></html>
Message 14
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| Subject: | when to rivet the fuselage? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: ken smith <lrepilot@yahoo.com>
I have the fuselage of my 601xl to the point where I
am just adding things like the gussets and similar
smaller items. I have what looks like a million clecos
hanging off the structure (actually about 600).
I have not yet drilled the top skins yet. My question
is can I un-cleco , debur and rivet the major
structure at this point or do I continue to add the
dual sticks, flap controlls etc before disassembly.
Ken
__________________________________________________
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Transporting aluminum sheet? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Wade Jones" <waj@quik.com>
Hi Matt ,glad to see you are getting stared .I cant give you much more
advice other than the good advice that you have already gotten from the
site .I think you are wise picking it up yourself ,both in freight charges
and damage received in shipment .When I checked Trident they did not even
want to talk to me about .016 & .020 as they had too much damage in shipment
to their facility .I am going to use them for the remainder of my .025
material .I bought my 1 1/2 x1/4 spar caps from them for $14.25 each .Keep
us informed and I enjoyed your visit a couple of weeks ago . Wade
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Stecher" <mrcc1234@sbcglobal.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 30, 2006 8:52 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Transporting aluminum sheet?
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Matt Stecher" <mrcc1234@sbcglobal.net>
>
> I am picking up my first aluminum order from a local supplier here in
> Houston on Monday and am wondering how to load it without damaging it.
>
> I will be receiving (5 - 12'x4') 2-016, 1-025, 1-032 & 1-040. Trident
> Metals has the best rates (total $344) I have seen especially since I
> don't
> have to worry about shipping (which was $150 from Yarde).
>
> I am thinking that I will just roll them up together, wrap them in a soft
> blanket and place straps around it to hold it.
>
> Will this work?
> How tight a radius can the 40 be wrapped to without taking a set?
>
> I am making a long clamp out of 2 - 5'x2"x1/2" boards that I sandwich
> around
> the short edge of the sheet stack with wing nuts and bolts (wrapped to
> protect the sheets). The overhanging ends of which can help start the
> rolling process and perhaps use as a handle to carry the roll.
>
> I don't have a trailer and can hopefully get them all home safe in the
> back
> of our Durango.
>
> Thanks,
> Matt in Katy, TX
> 601XL/Corvair - Starting the Tail Group
>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | dual sticks in 601XL |
Hello group ,I have a question . Is it worth the effort to add dual
control sticks to this design .What are your thoughts pro & con on this
issue . Thanks Wade Jones
Message 17
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|
I've found that putting a bit of the material on my finger and
rubbing it into the stubborn spots and then going over it with the
buffer seems to help.
On Sep 30, 2006, at 9:14 AM, Bill Naumuk wrote:
> Gordon-
> I have no trouble getting a shine out of probably 95% of the
> surface area, just little pitted areas smaller than a dime. These
> areas seem impervious to G6.
> As I said before, I only have a couple of skins in this
> condition. When I first got my kit, I stood all the skins against a
> basement wall in order I would be using them. The fuse side skins
> were the ones against the wall. Even though my basement appeared
> dry and I have a dehumidifier, the side skins still got some
> corrosion.
> I probably wouldn't have this trouble now if I would have
> "Rotated my stock".
> Bill
> Bill Naumuk
> HDS Fuselage
> Townville, Pa
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
do not archive.
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: when to rivet the fuselage? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Bryan Martin <bryanmmartin@comcast.net>
I would go ahead and rivet the lower fuselage together. Then you can
leave the top skins clecoed until you get your control cables and
wires installed.
On Sep 30, 2006, at 3:28 PM, ken smith wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: ken smith <lrepilot@yahoo.com>
>
> I have the fuselage of my 601xl to the point where I
> am just adding things like the gussets and similar
> smaller items. I have what looks like a million clecos
> hanging off the structure (actually about 600).
> I have not yet drilled the top skins yet. My question
> is can I un-cleco , debur and rivet the major
> structure at this point or do I continue to add the
> dual sticks, flap controlls etc before disassembly.
>
> Ken
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
do not archive.
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Re: dual sticks in 601XL |
I wasn't worth the effort to me. It didn't take any time at all to
get used to the center Y stick even though I had always flown
aircraft with a control yoke before. The center stick also makes it
easier to get in and out of the plane. I find it no trouble to change
hands on the center stick to adjust radios and such. The dual sticks
will be heavier and more complicated also.
On Sep 30, 2006, at 4:00 PM, Wade Jones wrote:
> Hello group ,I have a question . Is it worth the effort to add dual
> control sticks to this design .What are your thoughts pro & con on
> this issue . Thanks Wade Jones
>
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
do not archive.
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Re: Photos of the 1st "Mid-Atlantic Light Sport Aircraft |
Show"
Hi Jim,
Very nice pictures. They make me want to travel the 3,000 miles to
get to your place so I can try flying each one of the planes.
Which ones do you actually have available for training?
Paul
XL fuselage
A
--
Message 21
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Zodie Rocket" <zodierocket@hsfx.ca>
The odd time builders get behind in the schedule they set out for
themselves in building their dreams, could be other projects or maybe
you just got stuck on something. Either way a small kick in the pants
never hurts! I have just such a kick to offer all of you, I have just
freshly uploaded a link in the stories section of www.ch601.org that
will remind you why we are building these planes. Hopefully it will help
some of you to get out into the garage or the hanger and discover the
pleasure of building and what awaits you upon completion.
Enjoy
Mark Townsend Alma, Ontario
Zodiac 601XL C-GOXL, CH701 just started
www.ch601.org / www.ch701.com / www.Osprey2.com
--
9/29/2006
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Re: Transporting aluminum sheet? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Clyde Barcus" <barcusc@comcast.net>
I just received .025 X 4' x 12' it came in a box 13 1/2 X 13 1/2 square, I
did not measure the length but it is obviously more than 48 '' long. This is
the second time I have received a shipment from aircraft Spruce with no
damage. They roll it with paper between sheets of aluminum and it arrives in
excellent condition. I don't know how tight you can roll .040.
Clyde
601 XL
Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wade Jones" <waj@quik.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 30, 2006 3:55 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Transporting aluminum sheet?
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Wade Jones" <waj@quik.com>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Matt Stecher" <mrcc1234@sbcglobal.net>
> To: "Zenith-List@Matronics.Com" <zenith-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Saturday, September 30, 2006 8:52 AM
> Subject: Zenith-List: Transporting aluminum sheet?
>
>
>> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Matt Stecher"
>> <mrcc1234@sbcglobal.net>
>>
>> I am picking up my first aluminum order from a local supplier here in
>> Houston on Monday and am wondering how to load it without damaging it.
>>
>> I will be receiving (5 - 12'x4') 2-016, 1-025, 1-032 & 1-040. Trident
>> Metals has the best rates (total $344) I have seen especially since I
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Re: dual sticks in 601XL |
I am using the dual stick option. I found it awkward in the demo plane
to change hands to check my ability to reach across the panel with the
inboard side hand. I'm sure it would not be a deal breaker either way.
With dual sticks the center console area is freed up for the placement
of fuel selector valve, switches, whatever.
Ed Moody II
----- Original Message -----
From: Wade Jones
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, September 30, 2006 3:00 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: dual sticks in 601XL
Hello group ,I have a question . Is it worth the effort to add dual
control sticks to this design .What are your thoughts pro & con on this
issue . Thanks Wade Jones
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Re: dual sticks in 601XL |
I went with the dual sticks because I am used to that configuration and like
to fly with it.
I have flown both configurations and prefer the stick although there are
some disadvantages.
Some of the drawbacks to the dual sticks on this aircraft are:
The loss of foot space in front of the pilot and passenger.
It is harder to enter and exit the aircraft.
The wiring and placement of some items require much more thought.
The seats must be configured for the sticks.
The stick interferes with the passenger seating comfort.
It is harder to carry cargo in the passenger seat without interfering with
the stick.
Some of the advantages of the dual stick are:
The console area can be configured for instruments and other items.
The right hand is free to set radios and other instruments. The right hand
is free to write.
The aircraft can be flown with the left hand when you wish.
The stick can be configured with switches that can be operated with either
hand.
I personally find it easier to fly with the stick than the center control.
The legs can also be used when necessary.
My two cents worth.....
Mike Sigman
N7092N 601XL
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: dual sticks in 601XL |
Wade, I actually held off starting the Zodiac until they offered dual sticks.
I am not a mancho "left hand on throttle, right hand on stick" type. I
learned in your everyday spam can, with my right hand on the throttle and left
on
the yoke. Beyond that, my other problem with the center stick is that I am
right handed. I could not envision grabbing the stick with my left hand in
order to write something down (with my right hand) and I can't write with my left
hand.
That's my 2 cent's worth, Jay in Dallas, working on XL canopy
Message 26
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| Subject: | dual sticks in 601XL |
Well, I'm doing it for a few reasons:
- it mimics the planes I have trained in (172, Katana, Evector, 601XL): left
hand on the stick, right on center throttle.
- all the 601xls that I have seen that have been purchased for flight
instruction have dual sticks. So if you need time in an XL before flying
yours you will probably need to use dual sticks
- I am right-handed and wanted that hand free for things that require manual
dexterity: writing, fiddling with the GPS, radio, transponder, microwave
over, etc.
Certainly the center Y stick is a cleaner design. Others will say that it is
not a big deal to grab the Y stick with your left hand to temporarily free
your right for other tasks.
-- Craig
Message 27
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| Subject: | dual sticks in 601XL |
One way to address some of these problems is to make the upper portion of
the passenger-side stick removable.
-- Craig
_____
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sigmo@aol.com
Sent: Saturday, September 30, 2006 3:11 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: dual sticks in 601XL
I went with the dual sticks because I am used to that configuration and like
to fly with it.
I have flown both configurations and prefer the stick although there are
some disadvantages.
Some of the drawbacks to the dual sticks on this aircraft are:
The loss of foot space in front of the pilot and passenger.
It is harder to enter and exit the aircraft.
The wiring and placement of some items require much more thought.
The seats must be configured for the sticks.
The stick interferes with the passenger seating comfort.
It is harder to carry cargo in the passenger seat without interfering with
the stick.
Some of the advantages of the dual stick are:
The console area can be configured for instruments and other items.
The right hand is free to set radios and other instruments. The right hand
is free to write.
The aircraft can be flown with the left hand when you wish.
The stick can be configured with switches that can be operated with either
hand.
I personally find it easier to fly with the stick than the center control.
The legs can also be used when necessary.
My two cents worth.....
Mike Sigman
N7092N 601XL
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | CH701 inboard flaperon root rib question |
What steps did other people do for the root rib?
The directions in the manual are a little lacking...
Is it better to trim the spar now and drill the angle into place, or is it
better to wait?
Should I go ahead and drill the rib into place now, or should I wait until
the fuselage is done and I mate the part to the wing and body?
Thanks!
--
John Marzulli
http://701Builder.blogspot.com/
"Flying a plane is no different than riding a bicycle... it's just a lot
harder to put baseball cards in the spokes.
Message 29
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|
Listers,
Is anyone planning to attend SERFI <http://www.serfi.org/> next week?
Rodney Mills
601XL
Message 30
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "TxDave" <dclaytx2@hotmail.com>
Thanks for the inspiration, Mark. I was feeling kind of bummed out due to ruining
one of my left wing spar caps right before I was about to start riveting. Great
story.
Dave Clay
do not archive
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=64867#64867
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | Re: dual sticks in 601XL |
I was surprised to hear so many listers say they didn't like the
center stick because they couldn't write left handed. I haven't
flown my XL yet, but it seems to me there are two obvious answers to
this particular problem. First, you could configure the plane to fly
from the right seat. OK, I realize this is sacrilege, but it would
allow the left hand on stick, right hand on throttle.
The more obvious answer is that when the plane is properly trimmed up
you should be able to let go of the controls long enough to adjust
the radios or write something down. Is there some reason this doesn't work?
Paul
XL fuselage
do not archive
At 01:00 PM 9/30/2006, you wrote:
>Hello group ,I have a question . Is it worth the effort to add dual
>control sticks to this design .What are your thoughts pro & con on
>this issue . Thanks Wade Jones
---------------------------------------------
Paul Mulwitz
32013 NE Dial Road
Camas, WA 98607
---------------------------------------------
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | Re: Off Topic - Aircraft Leaseback |
Thanks Chris, didn't think of that. I'll try to dig up some info that way. I was
also looking for some "been there, done that" advice since sometimes what the
experts say and what really happens can be different.
Mike
Chris In Madison <cowens@cnw.com> wrote: --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Chris
In Madison"
Hi Mike,
Are you an AOPA member? Lots of leaseback info on first glance. I'm not familiar
with the process, so can't comment. However a quick search of "leaseback"
returned 88 results.
Best regards,
Chris
--------
Chris Owens
Waunakee, WI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=64797#64797
---------------------------------
Message 33
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Craig Payne" <craig@craigandjean.com>
GCXA was at Quality Sport Planes after this trip. During the Jabiru FWF
seminar Michael Heinz was taking folks up. I believe this is 601XL #1 - the
first ever built.
-- Craig
Message 34
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| Subject: | Rough Cut-Polishing progress real time |
Steve- (Everyone who's polished feel free to jump in!!)
The coarsest grit available from ACS is G6. You're not the first
one to recommend an F grade, and I'm going to make a serious effort to
find some.
Tried Mother's- about the same as G6. Dupont Polishing Compound is
about the same as Nuvite grade C.
Tried 1200 grit wet or dry. Worked fine for some spots, had to go
down as low as 220 to get rid of others on the fuse sides, which are the
bad pieces. Messy as hell, and I figure it's easier to buy a 2x10 piece
of sheet and make new ones rather than clean the originals up. I put the
originals aside for use as drill patterns and will try F grit if I can
find some.
Bottom fuse skin isn't in too bad a shape. Able to clean everything
up (Sloooow process). Have better luck using a chunk of old towel to rub
the paste to a nice, consistant, black yuck before taking one of the
polishers to it.
Speaking of polishers, how do I know when to give up on a bonnet?
They turn black in seconds, and Ma took one look at one and said it
wasn't to be seen in the same county as her washing machine. Can't blame
her.
Here's a visual for you- Ma with one of the bonnets in her hand
chasing a runaway washing machine down the road yelling "You wimp- get
back here"!
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: The Minearts
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, September 30, 2006 12:41 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Rough Cut
I spoke with the rep for Nuvite at OSH, and he recommended starting
with the F-9 grit to work out the mill finish, that the finer grades
only fill the small scratches from the mill, rather than cutting them
out. Interestingly, he said that the non-clad alloys need more work to
get to the finished look, but then it is more durable than with clad.
Steve Mineart
zenvair 601xl
do not archive
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: dual sticks in 601XL |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Tim Juhl" <juhl@avci.net>
All the opinions I've read are good and worthy ones. In my case, as a CFI I'm
used to switching hands and going between wheels and sticks and having to stretch
across the cockpit to reach things. For most of my career I owned a Cessna
and an Aeronca Champ (still have the Champ.)
I chose to go with the center stick for 1.) Simplicity 2.) Comfort (nice armrest
leading up to the stick instead of curling your hand in your lap.)
3.) Easier entry and exit. To deal with the other issues I will simply design
my panel for easy placement of controls (and duplicate some on the right) and
install a single axis autopilot to do the flying when I need my hands or am otherwise
engaged. Anyone who has flown single pilot IFR and tried to copy clearances,
twist radios and the like while in IMC knows the value of an AP. If
you don't want an AP, remember the "poor man's auto pilot" (rudder pedals) which
can be used to keep the wings level on an otherwise properly trimmed AC.
In the end, there is no best choice..... just go with what works for you.
Tim Juhl
Do not archive
--------
DO NOT ARCHIVE
______________
CFII
Champ L16A flying
Zodiac XL - Working on wings
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=64881#64881
Message 36
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| Subject: | dual sticks in 601XL |
Paul there is no reason whatsoever, Chris Heintz designed the center
stick and for nearly 22 years it has been nothing short of a great
system. It is truly the best way to fly the 601 of any series. However,
many who have never flown with the system wanted something more
conventional as dual leg smackers or if you have wet shoes then they are
called ball breakers. If you=92re panel is laid out properly then in the
first and last 1000ft everything you need can be accessed by your left
hand. If you need to write down information then I sure hope you got it
before you entered the circuit like you=92re supposed to a properly
trimmed Zodiac can fly for large amounts of time hands off. It is funny
anyone who has built there second Zodiac still retains the =93Y=94 stick
and
any seasoned 601 owner can easily modify the system to a dual stick but
never seem to. All arguments over changing from a =93Y=94 stick
configuration are simply those who are afraid to get used to something
different. But it is a personal choice, and to each there own The
601=92s
in Canada owned by Flypass were used for a great many years as flight
training planes and retained the Y stick plus when many of those
students built there own planes they didn=92t install a dual stick
configuration either. This is not an argument, I won=92t have a dual
stick
setup in my plane, it is a personal decision and preference, amazingly
enough I find the Y stick more social then a dual stick ( never could
figure that one out but it is true to me anyways). Any debate of one
being better then the other is totally false and wrote with personal
preference. Below is an early picture of my panel for the 601XL. Let
the scotch bright pads fly !! Remember I did say personal preference !
Mark Townsend Alma, Ontario
Zodiac 601XL C-GOXL, CH701 just started
HYPERLINK "http://www.ch601.org"www.ch601.org / HYPERLINK
"http://www.ch701.com"www.ch701.com/ HYPERLINK
"http://www.Osprey2.com"www.Osprey2.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul
Mulwitz
Sent: Saturday, September 30, 2006 6:37 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: dual sticks in 601XL
I was surprised to hear so many listers say they didn't like the center
stick because they couldn't write left handed. I haven't flown my XL
yet, but it seems to me there are two obvious answers to this particular
problem. First, you could configure the plane to fly from the right
seat. OK, I realize this is sacrilege, but it would allow the left hand
on stick, right hand on throttle.
The more obvious answer is that when the plane is properly trimmed up
you should be able to let go of the controls long enough to adjust the
radios or write something down. Is there some reason this doesn't work?
Paul
XL fuselage
do not archive
At 01:00 PM 9/30/2006, you wrote:
Hello group ,I have a question . Is it worth the effort to add dual
control sticks to this design .What are your thoughts pro & con on this
issue . Thanks Wade Jones
---------------------------------------------
Paul Mulwitz
32013 NE Dial Road
Camas, WA 98607
---------------------------------------------
"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List"http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?Zenith-List
"http://forums.matronics.com"http://forums.matronics.com
"http://wiki.matronics.com"http://wiki.matronics.com
"http://www.matronics.com/contribution"http://www.matronics.com/contribu
tion
--
9/29/2006
--
9/29/2006
Message 37
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Zodie Rocket" <zodierocket@hsfx.ca>
Craig your right, it I the original prototype. In fact at one time it
used to have a center section like the old HD series and it even had
bungee main landing gear.
Mark Townsend Alma, Ontario
Zodiac 601XL C-GOXL, CH701 just started
www.ch601.org / www.ch701.com / www.Osprey2.com
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Craig Payne
Sent: Saturday, September 30, 2006 7:16 PM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Inspiration
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Craig Payne"
<craig@craigandjean.com>
GCXA was at Quality Sport Planes after this trip. During the Jabiru FWF
seminar Michael Heinz was taking folks up. I believe this is 601XL #1 -
the
first ever built.
-- Craig
--
9/29/2006
--
9/29/2006
Message 38
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| Subject: | Rough Cut-Polishing progress real time |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Carlos Sa <carlosfsa@yahoo.com>
Now you know why I use paper towels...
Happy polishing
Carlos
Ch601-HD, plans
Skins for right (or left??) wing polished. Need shades around it :-)
Montreal, Canada
--- Bill Naumuk <naumuk@alltel.net> a crit :
> Steve- (Everyone who's polished feel free to jump in!!)
...
> Speaking of polishers, how do I know when to give up on a bonnet? They turn
black in
> seconds, and Ma took one look at one and said it wasn't to be seen in the same
county as her
> washing machine. Can't blame her.
> Here's a visual for you- Ma with one of the bonnets in her hand chasing a
runaway washing
> machine down the road yelling "You wimp- get back here"!
>
> Bill Naumuk
__________________________________________________________
Message 39
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|
| Subject: | Stupid question: mounting the horizontal stab. |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Craig Payne" <craig@craigandjean.com>
I'm the third owner of my kit and the original builder (Jack Rentfrow) built
all the sheet metal portions. For various reasons I'm replacing the rear top
skin and am checking the fit of the horizontal stabilizer. I don't see how
you can install the stab with the top rear skin in place. This kit was built
from circa 1999-2000 plans.
The way mine is built the plates on the stab go inside the plates on the
fuselage. The plates on the fuselage are in place and the holes through the
stab and fuse plates have been drilled and do align. With the cut-out on the
top skin you can't bring the stab in and then drop it inside of the plates
on the fuselage.
Is it built wrong? Were things done in the wrong order? Are newer kits
different? Do the cut-outs in the top skin need to be more generous?
-- Craig
Message 40
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|
| Subject: | Re: Changed out gear plates on HDS |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jim Hoak" <planejim@bellsouth.net>
Listers,
This is for those of you flying with Bungee Gear, and as a follow on to what
larry said about his gear modification below.
Since I have 531 hours on my 601, I have been following with interest the
problem of cracking around the weld at the plate at the bottom of the main
gear struts. I remember Chris Heintz telling me to avoid side loads on the
gear. I've been carefull to do that. My .125" plates have only four bolt
holes. I have never landed on grass ( I would like to but felt it might
cause a problem ) as I believed that may be part of the problem. I think the
mod that Larry and others are using should eliminate the problem. However
I've decided to just add four Gussetts to my gear as I have a
friend/neighbor who is a professional welder , A&P and IA, who belives that
our planned mod will work. I will continue to operate only on paved runways
though. That's my problem, Right?
Now for what I found when I removed the right main gear ( the left will be
done next ). By the way I devised simple nut plate strips for the bolts that
everyone has to fight with when installing the gear. I also designed my own
simple fixture to stretch the bungees while installing the gear. I had
submitted these to the Zenair Newsletter several years ago. Chris said" nice
idea but why, the bungees will last a long time". I'm an old mechanic and I
know everything has to be worked on at some time. Now I'm laughing all the
way to the workshop, so to speak, in that I removed the gear in just a few
minutes and will reinstall it in just a few minutes when the welding is
done. I was amazed that the bungees were in pretty sad condition, even
though the plate on the top of the wing was bearly raised up from the plate
on top. In my opinion the 1080 bungess are just too stiff for this airplane.
I think I remembered that some one recently removed one of the bungees at
each main gear to make theplane ride softer. Maybe that's what we need, but
I'm no engineer.
But, I've already bought new bungees frm A/C spruce ( one day delivery ) and
will put it all back together as original except the new gussets. My warning
to you all is that just because the plate on top of the wing is still almost
flush, it doesn't mean the bungees are in great shape. I had some fraying I
could see from the bottom but I couldn't see where all the outer threads
were completely gone.
Also, even though I keep the gear legs greased, and since I had only the
.125" thick aluminum WEAR plates ( I'm adding the 1/4" nylon wear plates
now ) and there is .002" to .003" wear on the main gear struts in the area
where thay remain in contact with the aluminun wear plate. The funny thing
is that the aluminun wear plate is only worn a couple of thousanths too.
There was NO wear on the crosstube that rides up and down between the
extrusions up inside the wing, and it's impossible to keep this area greased
either!
Those of you who haven't installed your gear legs yet, do youirself a favor
and make up some simple aluninum strips with the nut plates for the gear
attachment bolts. It will make you life easier, you'll cuss less and it will
be a piece of cake when you have to do maintenance in that area.
Smiling!
do not archive
Jim Hoak 601HD 531 hours - Rotax 912UL
----- Original Message -----
From: "LarryMcFarland" <larry@macsmachine.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2006 10:41 AM
Subject: [Norton AntiSpam] Zenith-List: Changed out gear plates on HDS
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: LarryMcFarland <larry@macsmachine.com>
>
> Hi guys,
> I finally moved the fuselage into the booth for painting, but first
> had to remove the gear box, strut and bungees on the main gear.
> There were only 85-hours on the plane, but I inspected the guides
> and strut cross tube. No wear or even missing paint. I did have one
> bungee that had been damaged, probably during the first excruciating
> assembly of the 32 bolts and nuts. It still took hours to reassemble
> each gear box with a custom socket welded to a short L-arm extension.
> I jigged and matched the plates, then cut off the strut half an inch from
> the
> plate, squared the end and slid the weldment tube with 1/4 inch plate into
> the strut. The strut was drilled first and the weldment tube match
> drilled
> to it. The gear is now 1/4 inch longer, held by a 1/4-inch AN4 and the
> main wheel alignment has a 6-tenths of a degree toe in. The socket and
> plate replacement is a very viable way to change out the plate thickness
> and eliminate the potential for gear plate failure.
> http://www.macsmachine.com/images/completion/full/gear-plate-and-strut.gif
>
> Thought you'd like to know,
>
> Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
>
>
>
Message 41
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| Subject: | BAD ALUM on Market. |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Christian Tremblay <cj.tremblay@videotron.ca>
Thanks a lot Mark
-----Message d'origine-----
De: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] De la part de Zodie Rocket
Envoy: Wednesday, September 27, 2006 9:45 PM
: zenith-list@matronics.com
Objet: Zenith-List: BAD ALUM on Market.
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Zodie Rocket" <zodierocket@hsfx.ca>
Actually while were on this note I wish to make all scratch builders
that it has been brought to our attention that 6061-T6 alum manufactured
in China with a sheet marking starting with H (I can 't remember the
name at this moment but you will recognize it as a non American name) is
not of the same standard. We have done several tests with both Alcan and
the imported alum with the same 6061-T6 stamp and in each case the
import had prevailing cracks and on thicker pieces actually broke in the
bend while the Alcan product formed just fine. I don't have any more
info on this but be aware of what your buying.
Mark Townsend
Can-Zac Aviation Ltd.
president@can-zacaviation.com
www.can-zacaviation.com
-----Original Message-----
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "William Wilkinson"
<wwilkinson@mweb.co.za>
I have been registered on this list for a few months and have learned a
lot.
I received my 601XL plans a year ago and studied it in detail. Also
watched
the DVD by Homebuilt.com.
I am going to scratch buildt. All the aircraft grade aluminium in South
Africa are imported and therefore quite expensive. Luckily all the
6061T6
sheet thicknesses are available from the distributor.
There are local South African 6061T6 extrusions e.g.angles and the flat
bar
for the main spars available but without the quality marking every few
inches stating it is 6061T6.(Quality markings)
I am working for a petrochemical factory in Secunda, South Africa. On
site
is a metallurgical laboratory that is willing to do a physical tensile
strenght on a sample and confirm the chemical property of the
material.(E.g.
Silicon content) Otherwise I will have to import the angles and flatbar
at
an enormous price.
However, I want to ask your advise as it is not worth while to take
chances
with inferior materials.
Regards
William Wilkinson
Secunda, South Africa
--
9/27/2006
Message 42
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| Subject: | Re: dual sticks in 601XL |
Which is what I plan to do also.
Ed Moody II
----- Original Message -----
From: Craig Payne
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, September 30, 2006 4:23 PM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: dual sticks in 601XL
One way to address some of these problems is to make the upper portion
of the passenger-side stick removable.
-- Craig
Message 43
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Wade Jones" <waj@quik.com>
Hi Dave ,what did you do to ruin the spar cap . Wade
----- Original Message -----
From: "TxDave" <dclaytx2@HOTMAIL.COM>
Sent: Saturday, September 30, 2006 5:12 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Inspiration
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "TxDave" <dclaytx2@hotmail.com>
>
> Thanks for the inspiration, Mark. I was feeling kind of bummed out due to
> ruining one of my left wing spar caps right before I was about to start
> riveting. Great story.
>
> Dave Clay
>
> do not archive
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=64867#64867
>
>
>
Message 44
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| Subject: | Re: N329F Update |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jim Fosse" <jfosse1@shawneelink.net>
The bird weighs in at 692 lbs. A little heavier than what I would
like but I attribute most of the weight to the Suzuki engine. With
the engine mount, radiator, fuel pumps, coil pack, hoses, wiring and
cowling, the total engine weight is close to the 200 lb limit called
out by Zenith. Makes it a little limiting on useful load but I will
probably do 99 percent of my flying solo (my wife doesn't believe
airplanes can really fly). The CG is pretty good but a little forward
of middle range and very close to the forward limit in the most
forward weight calculations. I'm using a 3 blade, 68" Kiev prop.
Jim Fosse
Message 45
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|
| Subject: | Inspection plates |
I am trying to make some round inspection hole covers with no hole in
the center. I have had some success using large hole saws on a drill
press. Just clamp everything down tight and put the drill press on slow
speed and use cutting oil. It kind of works but will start to grab
easily. It leaves a very rough edge. Then I smooth it down with a
Scotchbrite wheel. There must be a better way. These are 4 to 5 inch
holes and the saws are really expensive. I really don't want to cut them
with tin snips.
Dave in Salem
801
Message 46
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|
All-
Spent the day getting this PIA to the point you see. Remember, this
was the EASY skin. About 4 hrs.
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
Message 47
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|
| Subject: | Inspection plates |
Won't a fly cutter also work with its center drill bit removed if you use a
press and everything is tightly clamped? By fly cutter I mean the tool with
a center drill bit of about 1/4" and a cutting tool on the end of an
adjustable arm. Harbor Freight sells one with two bits that might be more
stabile in this configuration.
-- Craig
_____
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Ruddiman
Sent: Saturday, September 30, 2006 8:44 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Inspection plates
I am trying to make some round inspection hole covers with no hole in the
center. I have had some success using large hole saws on a drill press. Just
clamp everything down tight and put the drill press on slow speed and use
cutting oil. It kind of works but will start to grab easily. It leaves a
very rough edge. Then I smooth it down with a Scotchbrite wheel. There must
be a better way. These are 4 to 5 inch holes and the saws are really
expensive. I really don't want to cut them with tin snips.
Dave in Salem
801
Message 48
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|
| Subject: | Re: Inspection plates |
Craig,
I am just about to try that. I think if I put it in the drill press and
turn it by hand, it might work. I can get the speed down to 200 RPM's,
but I think that may be to fast. Anyway, here goes.
Thanks for the suggestion,
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: Craig Payne
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, September 30, 2006 9:10 PM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Inspection plates
Won't a fly cutter also work with its center drill bit removed if you
use a press and everything is tightly clamped? By fly cutter I mean the
tool with a center drill bit of about 1/4" and a cutting tool on the end
of an adjustable arm. Harbor Freight sells one with two bits that might
be more stabile in this configuration.
-- Craig
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave
Ruddiman
Sent: Saturday, September 30, 2006 8:44 PM
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Subject: Zenith-List: Inspection plates
I am trying to make some round inspection hole covers with no hole in
the center. I have had some success using large hole saws on a drill
press. Just clamp everything down tight and put the drill press on slow
speed and use cutting oil. It kind of works but will start to grab
easily. It leaves a very rough edge. Then I smooth it down with a
Scotchbrite wheel. There must be a better way. These are 4 to 5 inch
holes and the saws are really expensive. I really don't want to cut them
with tin snips.
Dave in Salem
801
Message 49
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|
| Subject: | Inspection plates |
The edges will be beveled. May not be a problem in such thin material.
Otherwise flip the cutting tool around.
-- Craig
_____
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Ruddiman
Sent: Saturday, September 30, 2006 10:21 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Inspection plates
Craig,
I am just about to try that. I think if I put it in the drill press and turn
it by hand, it might work. I can get the speed down to 200 RPM's, but I
think that may be to fast. Anyway, here goes.
Thanks for the suggestion,
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: Craig <mailto:craig@craigandjean.com> Payne
Sent: Saturday, September 30, 2006 9:10 PM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Inspection plates
Won't a fly cutter also work with its center drill bit removed if you use a
press and everything is tightly clamped? By fly cutter I mean the tool with
a center drill bit of about 1/4" and a cutting tool on the end of an
adjustable arm. Harbor Freight sells one with two bits that might be more
stabile in this configuration.
-- Craig
_____
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Ruddiman
Sent: Saturday, September 30, 2006 8:44 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Inspection plates
I am trying to make some round inspection hole covers with no hole in the
center. I have had some success using large hole saws on a drill press. Just
clamp everything down tight and put the drill press on slow speed and use
cutting oil. It kind of works but will start to grab easily. It leaves a
very rough edge. Then I smooth it down with a Scotchbrite wheel. There must
be a better way. These are 4 to 5 inch holes and the saws are really
expensive. I really don't want to cut them with tin snips.
Dave in Salem
801
Message 50
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|
| Subject: | Re: Inspection plates |
So, I'm guilty of trying to do things the hard way first. Just cut one
out with the fly cutter on the drill press turning it by hand. It works
really good and doesn't really take any longer than using a hole saw.
Still have to smooth them out either way. By the way my Scotch Brite
wheel is GREY colored.
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: Craig Payne
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, September 30, 2006 9:10 PM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Inspection plates
Won't a fly cutter also work with its center drill bit removed if you
use a press and everything is tightly clamped? By fly cutter I mean the
tool with a center drill bit of about 1/4" and a cutting tool on the end
of an adjustable arm. Harbor Freight sells one with two bits that might
be more stabile in this configuration.
-- Craig
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave
Ruddiman
Sent: Saturday, September 30, 2006 8:44 PM
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Subject: Zenith-List: Inspection plates
I am trying to make some round inspection hole covers with no hole in
the center. I have had some success using large hole saws on a drill
press. Just clamp everything down tight and put the drill press on slow
speed and use cutting oil. It kind of works but will start to grab
easily. It leaves a very rough edge. Then I smooth it down with a
Scotchbrite wheel. There must be a better way. These are 4 to 5 inch
holes and the saws are really expensive. I really don't want to cut them
with tin snips.
Dave in Salem
801
Message 51
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| Subject: | Re: Inspection plates |
Hi Dave,
My inspection plates are all "Oval" - actually a combination of half
circles and a straight line between the tangents. These are very
easy to form with layout and snips. They are also easy to mount
inside the skin by attaching a temporary handle with double stick
tape (rolled up 200 mph tape).
Perhaps the circle was not the best choice.
Paul
XL fuselage
do not archive
At 07:43 PM 9/30/2006, you wrote:
>I am trying to make some round inspection hole covers with no hole
>in the center. I have had some success using large hole saws on a
>drill press. Just clamp everything down tight and put the drill
>press on slow speed and use cutting oil. It kind of works but will
>start to grab easily. It leaves a very rough edge. Then I smooth it
>down with a Scotchbrite wheel. There must be a better way. These are
>4 to 5 inch holes and the saws are really expensive. I really don't
>want to cut them with tin snips.
>
>Dave in Salem
>801
---------------------------------------------
Paul Mulwitz
32013 NE Dial Road
Camas, WA 98607
---------------------------------------------
Message 52
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| Subject: | Changed out gear plates on HDS |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Gary Boothe" <gboothe@calply.com>
Jim,
Any chance of posting a picture of your aluminum strips & nut plates?
Gary Boothe
Cool, CA
601 HDSTD, WW Conversion
Tail done, wings done, working on c-section
Those of you who haven't installed your gear legs yet, do youirself a favor
and make up some simple aluninum strips with the nut plates for the gear
attachment bolts. It will make you life easier, you'll cuss less and it will
be a piece of cake when you have to do maintenance in that area.
Smiling!
do not archive
Jim Hoak 601HD 531 hours - Rotax 912UL
>
>
>
Message 53
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| Subject: | Re: Inspection plates |
Paul,
I'm just trying things out. Oval sounds like a good idea also. What do
you mean about attaching inside the skins. Are you attaching them
permanently with rivets or using nut plates or what? Just curious.
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Mulwitz
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, September 30, 2006 9:49 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Inspection plates
Hi Dave,
My inspection plates are all "Oval" - actually a combination of half
circles and a straight line between the tangents. These are very easy
to form with layout and snips. They are also easy to mount inside the
skin by attaching a temporary handle with double stick tape (rolled up
200 mph tape).
Perhaps the circle was not the best choice.
Paul
XL fuselage
do not archive
At 07:43 PM 9/30/2006, you wrote:
I am trying to make some round inspection hole covers with no hole
in the center. I have had some success using large hole saws on a drill
press. Just clamp everything down tight and put the drill press on slow
speed and use cutting oil. It kind of works but will start to grab
easily. It leaves a very rough edge. Then I smooth it down with a
Scotchbrite wheel. There must be a better way. These are 4 to 5 inch
holes and the saws are really expensive. I really don't want to cut them
with tin snips.
Dave in Salem
801
---------------------------------------------
Paul Mulwitz
32013 NE Dial Road
Camas, WA 98607
---------------------------------------------
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