Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:36 AM - Re: Door 7E-9 (Elwood140@aol.com)
2. 04:36 AM - Re: Flap Hinge - A Question for the Scratchbuilders Out There (TxDave)
3. 05:16 AM - Re: 601 Main Gear (Trevor Page)
4. 06:18 AM - Re: Door 7E-9 (David Barth)
5. 06:21 AM - Re: Re: Flap Hinge - A Question for the Scratchbuilders Out There (David Barth)
6. 06:59 AM - Re: Re: Flap Hinge - A Question for the Scratchbuilders Out There (Debo Cox)
7. 08:23 AM - Vortex Generators (Stanley Challgren)
8. 09:17 AM - Re: Vortex Generators (daveaustin2@can.rogers.com)
9. 09:51 AM - VGs on ZAC aircraft (Keystone Engineering LLC)
10. 10:09 AM - Re: FWF kit for JabiruFWF kit for Jabiru (Gary Gower)
11. 10:14 AM - Re: 601 Main Gear (LarryMcFarland)
12. 10:25 AM - Re: Tensioning Cable (Gary Gower)
13. 10:31 AM - Re: VGs on ZAC aircraft (Monty Graves)
14. 11:51 AM - Bungee comment (Zed Smith)
15. 12:39 PM - Re: Bungee comment (Dave Ruddiman)
16. 12:54 PM - On-line info on making and using form blocks? (Craig Payne)
17. 01:23 PM - Wanted to Buy (Larry Edson)
18. 02:23 PM - Re: Door 7E-9 (Elwood140@aol.com)
19. 02:31 PM - Re: FWF kit for JabiruFWF kit for Jabiru (billmileski)
20. 02:31 PM - RE : On-line info on making and using form blocks? (Carlos Sa)
21. 02:50 PM - Wings Index Page (Wade Jones)
22. 02:52 PM - CH701 Power: Rotax or Jabiru (Ken Arnold)
23. 03:44 PM - Re: On-line info on making and using form blocks? (Bill Naumuk)
24. 03:49 PM - Demo (Darrell Haas)
25. 03:54 PM - Re: On-line info on making and using form blocks? (Craig Payne)
26. 04:11 PM - Good advice and another question (bob west)
27. 05:46 PM - Re: On-line info on making and using form blocks? (LarryMcFarland)
28. 06:06 PM - Re: Re: 701 Cruise performance (was FWF kit for Jabiru) (nyterminat@aol.com)
29. 06:30 PM - Re: On-line info on making and using form blocks? (Craig Payne)
30. 07:16 PM - Re: CH701 Power: Rotax or Jabiru (Paul Mulwitz)
31. 08:26 PM - Re: Leak test for fuel tanks. (Gary Briggs)
32. 09:49 PM - Re: CH701 Power: Rotax or Jabiru (Stanley Challgren)
33. 10:15 PM - Re: CH701 Power: Rotax or Jabiru (Craig Payne)
34. 10:54 PM - Re: CH701 Power: Rotax or Jabiru (Paul Mulwitz)
35. 11:20 PM - Re: CH701 Power: Rotax or Jabiru (Dabusmith@aol.com)
36. 11:35 PM - Re: CH701 Power: (Dabusmith@aol.com)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
In a message dated 10/5/2006 7:16:52 PM Central Daylight Time,
msherman95632@yahoo.com writes:
The 7E number would suggest that it is part of the
engine compartment. Maybe access door for the dip
stick?
Mark, it's about the right size for that, but nowhere have I seen any
mention of a dipstick access door on the drawings or in the assembly manual.
Regards,
Larry Wood
Do not archive
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Flap Hinge - A Question for the Scratchbuilders Out There |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "TxDave" <dclaytx2@hotmail.com>
Hey Doug,
I used 2 pieces. Got mine from Wicks.
Dave Clay
Temple, TX
http://www.daves601xl.com
do not archive
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=66147#66147
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: 601 Main Gear |
A friend of mine recently changed one side of his main gear on a
601HD with new 1080 bungies and noticed a gap on the top plate where
there was none before. Seems to me that either the new bungies are a
bit longer or perhaps softer (stretching) to account for the gap.
Maybe a change in the manufacturing process? Who makes these anyways?
Trev Page
C-IDUS 601HD R912
On Oct 5, 2006, at 9:28 PM, <planejim@bellsouth.net>
<planejim@bellsouth.net> wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: <planejim@bellsouth.net>
>
> Listers,
>
> This is primarily for those operating the OLD type bungee gear on
> HDs and HDS'. Mine are 10 years old 531 hours with 730 landings. I
> have never operated off of grass, well, some taxiing on grass.
>
> I have been working on one of my R/H Main Gear on my 601HD. I
> removed the gear to add some gussets at the strut to fork attach
> plate juncture since some folks have had failure at that point. The
> plates on my main gear are the small .125" thick ones with just
> four bolt holes attaching the fork. Upon disassembly I was shocked
> to find the bungees in pretty bad shape. The plate in top of the
> wing was still riding down tight, flush, like the bungees were
> still tight. This was supposed to be an indication that the bungees
> were still in good shape. I seem to remember someone saying that
> everything is OK until you have a 5/8" gap. I noticed some fraying
> of the outer covering at the bottom but it didn't look very bad.
> Where the bungees bend over the crosstube ( the tube that slides up
> and down in the extrusions inside the gear box ) the outer covering
> was completely gone and about 25% of the rubber bands were broken,
> ( I think this is because the bungees make a real tight bend
> there ) if you can believe it with the plate still tight down on
> top of the wing.
>
> I didn't find any cracks in the welds. I made four gussets, about 1
> 1/4" high of .065 Chromoly ( the same thickness as the strut wall )
> and welded them at 90 degrees to the strut, with two at the forward
> flange and two at the aft flange between the bolt holes. I had to
> slightly open up the top cutouts of the wheel fairing when I
> reinstalled the gear to clear the gussets.
>
> I also added a nylon wear block at the bottom of the strut. The top
> was still a snug fit ( even though I couldn't get much grease it
> there because the plates was so tight down on the top of the wing )
> and there was a few tousanths wear at the bottom aluminun wear
> plate. Note that my gear did not have the nylon wear plates when I
> built this plane. I had to add one to the bottom of the nose gear a
> couple of hundred hours back. That is is the high wear area. I do
> keep it well greased too.
>
> The big surprise was when I put the weight of the airplane on the
> new bungees. ( Note that I always believed that the original 1080
> bungees were too stiff ). With the new bungees ( 1080 purchased
> from A/C Spruce last week ) there is now approx. a 3/16" gap under
> the plate on top of the wing on the R/H side. I can grasp the right
> wing tip and actually make the plate move up and down. Never could
> make it do that with the old bungees. Both the old and new bungee
> packaging stated 1080, so I don't know what the difference is.
>
> I can't wait until I get the opportunity to do the left Main Gear
> so that I have an airplane that actually taxiis on the bungees
> rather that one that is stiff as a board.
>
> So, if you have one of the older 601's you might keep an eye on the
> gear!
>
> Jim Hoak 601HD - Rotax 912UL - 532 hours - 732 landings.
>
>
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> Zenith-List message posted by: David Barth <davids601xl@yahoo.com>
Hi Larry. According to my list that is a door for the
battery compartment on the 912 Firewall forward kit.
David
> >>
> >> May be a dumb question, but I found an aluminum
> >> part marked "7E-9 door" in
> >> my kit and so far have not found any reference to
> it
> >> on drawings or in
> >> illustrations. Can someone tell me what it's
> for?
> >>
> >> Regards,
> >>
David Barth
601 XL Plansbuilder 15% done?
Working on Wings
www.ch601.org
__________________________________________________
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Flap Hinge - A Question for the Scratchbuilders Out |
There
--> Zenith-List message posted by: David Barth <davids601xl@yahoo.com>
I used two pieces too but did a splice so that the
short piece was inboard on the flap and the short
piece was outboard on the wing.
David
--- TxDave <dclaytx2@HOTMAIL.COM> wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "TxDave"
> <dclaytx2@hotmail.com>
>
> Hey Doug,
>
> I used 2 pieces. Got mine from Wicks.
>
> Dave Clay
> Temple, TX
> http://www.daves601xl.com
> do not archive
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
>
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=66147#66147
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List
>
> Web Forums!
>
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
David Barth
601 XL Plansbuilder 15% done?
Working on Wings
www.ch601.org
__________________________________________________
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Flap Hinge - A Question for the Scratchbuilders Out |
There
This is exactly what I did too - staggered the splice of two hinges.
David Barth <davids601xl@yahoo.com> wrote: --> Zenith-List message posted by:
David Barth
I used two pieces too but did a splice so that the
short piece was inboard on the flap and the short
piece was outboard on the wing.
David
--- TxDave wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "TxDave"
>
>
> Hey Doug,
>
> I used 2 pieces. Got mine from Wicks.
>
> Dave Clay
> Temple, TX
> http://www.daves601xl.com
> do not archive
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
>
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=66147#66147
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List
>
> Web Forums!
>
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
David Barth
601 XL Plansbuilder 15% done?
Working on Wings
www.ch601.org
__________________________________________________
---------------------------------
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Vortex Generators |
List:
"Has anyone put vortex generators on you Zenair and how did it work"
We put the Land Shorter VG's on our 601 HDS and it reduced the stall
speed from 51 mph to 46 but more importantly the handling
characteristics during and after landing were vastly improved. The
latter was aided greatly when we installed them on the lower side of
the horizontal stabilizer. We were able to aerodynamically brake
down to about 20 mph.
All of the numbers should be in the archives as I reported all
numbers as they were gathered.
Stan
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Vortex Generators |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: daveaustin2@can.rogers.com
Quoting Stanley Challgren <challgren@mac.com>:
> List:
>
> "Has anyone put vortex generators on you Zenair and how did it work"
>
> We put the Land Shorter VG's on our 601 HDS and it reduced the stall
> speed from 51 mph to 46 but more importantly the handling
> characteristics during and after landing were vastly improved. The
> latter was aided greatly when we installed them on the lower side of
> the horizontal stabilizer. We were able to aerodynamically brake
> down to about 20 mph.
>
> All of the numbers should be in the archives as I reported all
> numbers as they were gathered.
>
> Stan
Stan,
Can you tell me exactly where you put them on the wings and hor. stab. please.
Also how many and the dimensions of them. How did you fix them on?
Many thanks.
Please send reply to my e-mail address as as well as I am currently having mail
problems with Zenith-list. Daveaustin2@sympatico.ca
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | VGs on ZAC aircraft |
List
>Has anyone put vortex generators on you Zenair and how did it work?
I put VGs on the bottom of my horizontal tail on my 801 and it gives the plane
more control at low speeds. I no longer run out of elevator on approach. I can
now shoot stabilized approaches at 50 mph. There was no noticeable change
in cruise speed. But, at 100 mph who would notice?
Bill Wilcox
N801BW
275 hrs
Valdez, AK
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: FWF kit for JabiruFWF kit for Jabiru |
In cross country flights, when we go over the Sierra, the cruise speed is 93 mph
indicated at 10,500 or 11,500 ft ASL (depends on heading) engine 5,100
rpm. Just great, perfect trimed.
With turbulence 80 severe turbulence 75, gets rough here some times...
When we go to "flat land" (altitude around 8,000 ft), cruises 85 to 90 in summer.
plane near gross, with two and camping gear
Saludos
Gary Gower
Flying from Chapala, Mexico.
701 912S
John Marzulli <john.marzulli@gmail.com> wrote: Zenith's site lists 110MPH as VNE
Realistically I think 90MPH is VNWE... aka Never Will Exceed.
On 10/4/06, Jhann Gestur < joeing701@internet.is> wrote:--> Zenith-List message
posted by: =?ISO-8859-1?Q?J=F3hann_Gestur?= < joeing701@internet.is>
Hello list members.
I thought the VNE for Zenith 701 is 90mph. Has this changed with the new
kits? If not, what is the purpose of getting a higher speed than the
never exceed speed? Is that safe?
Just curious.
Regards,http://forum==================
== ; -Matt Dralle, Lisntribution">
--
John Marzulli
CH701 in Seattle
Wings and tanks on order!
http://701Builder.blogspot.com/
"Flying a plane is no different than riding a bicycle... it's just a lot harder
to put baseball cards in the spokes.
---------------------------------
Get your email and more, right on the new Yahoo.com
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: 601 Main Gear |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: LarryMcFarland <larry@macsmachine.com>
Jim and Trevor,
The added nylon bearing provides considerable relief to the strut
dragging thru the wing aluminum and I'd suppose this freedom of movement
is responsible for the gap seen at the top cap above the wing. I
started with nylon bearings top and bottom and a 3/16" gap. There is a
lot of cushion and slide in the struts when landing too.
Pleased to hear of someone who's found a limit in hours for these
things. (knowing it's an estimate, but still good info)
Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
do not archive
Trevor Page wrote:
> A friend of mine recently changed one side of his main gear on a 601HD
> with new 1080 bungies and noticed a gap on the top plate where there
> was none before. Seems to me that either the new bungies are a bit
> longer or perhaps softer (stretching) to account for the gap. Maybe a
> change in the manufacturing process? Who makes these anyways?
>
> Trev Page
> C-IDUS 601HD R912
>
>>
>> The big surprise was when I put the weight of the airplane on the new
>> bungees. ( Note that I always believed that the original 1080 bungees
>> were too stiff ). With the new bungees ( 1080 purchased from A/C
>> Spruce last week ) there is now approx. a 3/16" gap under the plate
>> on top of the wing on the R/H side. I can grasp the right wing tip
>> and actually make the plate move up and down. Never could make it do
>> that with the old bungees. Both the old and new bungee packaging
>> stated 1080, so I don't know what the difference is.
>>
>> I can't wait until I get the opportunity to do the left Main Gear so
>> that I have an airplane that actually taxiis on the bungees rather
>> that one that is stiff as a board.
>>
>> So, if you have one of the older 601's you might keep an eye on the gear!
>>
>> Jim Hoak 601HD - Rotax 912UL - 532 hours - 732 landings.
>
>
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Tensioning Cable |
As one Old local AP told me once:
Common sence, not too tight, not too loose and the controls travel freely from
stop to stop.
Saludos
Gary Gower.
Matt & Jo <archermj@swbell.net> wrote: Question for the group. How did you
determine and set the cable tension in the flight control cables?
Cheers
Matt
www.zodiacxl.com
---------------------------------
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: VGs on ZAC aircraft |
Bill,
Lots of us would like to see pictures of the VG's on your 801. How about
posting some
same control at low speeds would apply to the 701
Monty Graves
At 08:50 AM 10/6/2006 -0800, you wrote:
>List
>
> >Has anyone put vortex generators on you Zenair and how did it work?
>
>I put VGs on the bottom of my horizontal tail on my 801 and it gives the
>plane more control at low speeds. I no longer run out of elevator on
>approach. I can now shoot stabilized approaches at 50 mph. There was no
>noticeable change in cruise speed. But, at 100 mph who would notice?
>
>
>Bill Wilcox
>N801BW
>275 hrs
>Valdez, AK
>
>
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Zed Smith <zsmith3rd@earthlink.net>
All,
My ZAC-supplied bungee spent the night with the Hangar Dog. This was early in
the project (five years ago).
He only chewed on one side of it, but I ordered a replacement from Spruce anyway.
Same 1080 Part Number, different material diameter, and, different overall diameter
when held side-by-side.
Not much difference, but certainly noticeable.
The original had never been installed, so the comparision was "valid".
Point is, these are not rocket-science items......Graduate Engineers are not doing
the assembly at the bungee factory. There may well be "equal opportunity"
employees and rejects from the Chicago Lighthouse for the Stupid actually cutting
up big rubber bands and making bungees.......there may be more than just
small variations in the process from one batch to the next. You get what you
pay for with minimum wage workers.
Obviously this may not be politically correct.....however, the final determination
of what is or is not safe rests with the builder/PIC. That be me. This isn't
intended to bash bungee manufacturers, just another look at what may be preceived
as an airframe problem when it could just as well be the difference in
replacement bungees.
Bring out the flame throwers!!
Regards,
Zed/701/R912/90+%/do not archive/the usual,etc
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Bungee comment |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave Ruddiman" <pacificpainting@comcast.net>
I wish I could get some minimum wage workers.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Zed Smith" <zsmith3rd@earthlink.net>
Sent: Friday, October 06, 2006 11:50 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Bungee comment
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Zed Smith <zsmith3rd@earthlink.net>
>
> All,
>
> My ZAC-supplied bungee spent the night with the Hangar Dog. This was
> early in the project (five years ago).
> He only chewed on one side of it, but I ordered a replacement from Spruce
> anyway.
> Same 1080 Part Number, different material diameter, and, different overall
> diameter when held side-by-side.
> Not much difference, but certainly noticeable.
> The original had never been installed, so the comparision was "valid".
>
> Point is, these are not rocket-science items......Graduate Engineers are
> not doing the assembly at the bungee factory. There may well be "equal
> opportunity" employees and rejects from the Chicago Lighthouse for the
> Stupid actually cutting up big rubber bands and making bungees.......there
> may be more than just small variations in the process from one batch to
> the next. You get what you pay for with minimum wage workers.
>
> Obviously this may not be politically correct.....however, the final
> determination of what is or is not safe rests with the builder/PIC. That
> be me. This isn't intended to bash bungee manufacturers, just another
> look at what may be preceived as an airframe problem when it could just as
> well be the difference in replacement bungees.
>
> Bring out the flame throwers!!
> Regards,
>
> Zed/701/R912/90+%/do not archive/the usual,etc
>
>
>
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | On-line info on making and using form blocks? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Craig Payne" <craig@craigandjean.com>
I'm a kit builder but it looks like I'm going to have to scratch build a
custom replacement for one on the bulkheads on my 601XL. I believe I know
the basics after listening to all the messages on scratch building on this
list over the years. But does anyone know of a good tutorial or step-by-step
on the web for making a form block from the plans and then using it?
Yes, I know about the Home Built Help DVDs but I was hoping to built the
part this weekend.
-- Craig
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
I'm interested in purchasing a completed and flying 601XL or HD with
tricycle landing gear. If anyone has one for sale, please contact me.
Thanks,
Larry Edson
**********************************************************************
Confidentiality Notice
The information contained in this e-mail is confidential and intended for
use only by the person(s) or organization listed in the address. If you have
received this communication in error, please contact the sender at O'Neil &
Associates, Inc., immediately. Any copying, dissemination, or distribution
of this communication, other than by the intended recipient, is strictly
prohibited.
**********************************************************************
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
In a message dated 10/6/2006 8:20:58 AM Central Daylight Time,
davids601xl@yahoo.com writes:
Hi Larry. According to my list that is a door for the
battery compartment on the 912 Firewall forward kit.
David
Thanks, David. I should have looked more closely.
Larry
Message 19
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: FWF kit for JabiruFWF kit for Jabiru |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "billmileski" <mileski@sonalysts.com>
Hi Bob,
My plane is a bit heavy with a BRS and probably too much paint, at 670#.
I added strut fairings also, not sure if you have them? The plane also has the
bubble doors from Skyshop (know anyone that wants the original doors cheap?).
My CG is at about 75 percent toward the rear of the allowed range, which also
might help. My Woodcomp 3-blade is set as follows:
1. Place blade so that the six inches or so inboard of the red paint is level.
The leading edge of the blade that is.. and this makes the blade look pretty horizontal,
with respect to the prop flange center. Then I measure from the floor
to the blade tip for consistency on all three blades.
2. Place Warp Drive bubble protractor so outboard edge of protractor is vertical
and meets the red/black paint change at the trailing edge of the blade (30mm
from tip? 50mm? Can't remember from home here).
3. Use 18 degrees (oh heck, was it 19? I will check if you want!) on the protractor
to get a level bubble.
4. Recheck all three blades a couple times. I try to get the bubble exactly centered
on each blade.
This setting gives my plane about 5300rpm static at sea level, and at full throttle
it pulls to 110mph and approx. 5550rpm. Climb is about 1150fpm from sea
level with full fuel and a 175 pound pilot. Often I just poop around at 78mph
and 4500 rpm, at something like 3.0 gph.
I also notice in cruise that pictures show that my elevator top surface is very
slightly lower ("down elevator") than horizontal. For such an asymmetrical airfoil,
this is probably a slightly negative total lift. So in balanced flight,
the elevator is probably not creating a lot of negative lift and associated
drag, due to a fairly rearward CG. The plane handles the same with and without
passengers and baggage, and has been flown at 100% aft CG without obvious handling
changes. I think this configuration maintains elevator authority in the
flare to lower airspeeds, but I admit the spin and deep stall stability characteristics
are unknown to me at 100% aft CG, and I don't plan to test in that
configuration (and I haven't and likely won't spin intentionally in any configuration,
per the oerating limitations).
Anyway, sorry for blabbing on, and if there's anything else I can tell you about
how my plane is set up, lemme know.
Bill
nyterminat(at)aol.com wrote:
> Bill,
> I have the same setup as you with the Woodcomp prop, and I don't see that
kind of airspeed. What kind of empty weight do you have? My cruise speed set up
still has me a little nose high attitude and I think that this is what is slowing
me down. With a small amount of foward stick the speed shoots up quickly.
What pitch do you have the prop set at? I believe I have mine set at 13 degrees.
>
> Bob Spudis
> N701ZX
>
>
> --
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=66241#66241
Message 20
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | On-line info on making and using form blocks? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Carlos Sa <carlosfsa@yahoo.com>
Best advice I can give you is "just do it".
Play with a small version, plan on wasting a sqft or two and go for it.
When I started, I probably knew less than you do now, and I did just fine.
(No, it's not flying yet.)
Happy building
Carlos
CH601-HD, plans, 6.72%+ done
Montreal, Canada
do not archive
--- Craig Payne <craig@craigandjean.com> a crit :
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Craig Payne" <craig@craigandjean.com>
>
> I'm a kit builder but it looks like I'm going to have to scratch build a
> custom replacement for one on the bulkheads on my 601XL. I believe I know
> the basics after listening to all the messages on scratch building on this
> list over the years. But does anyone know of a good tutorial or step-by-step
> on the web for making a form block from the plans and then using it?
>
> Yes, I know about the Home Built Help DVDs but I was hoping to built the
> part this weekend.
>
> -- Craig
__________________________________________________________
Message 21
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Wings Index Page |
Hey Craig ,try this site . Wade Jones
http://www.mybearhawk.com/wings/wingpage.html
Message 22
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | CH701 Power: Rotax or Jabiru |
Hi List,
I am making final decision for engine to install on 701. My local DAR
recommends the Jab 3300 over the 912S. His position is that the Jab is
easier to maintain, is less complex and has fewer change orders. Until
today, I have assumed the engine would be a 912S as it seems to be the
engine of choice for many of the LSA manufacturers.
My mission will be slow cruising around the local area with an
occasional x-country to the Midwest. Eventually, I would like to
install floats for some added thrills. Floats, of course, will benefit
from the 100hp.
I would appreciate any thoughts on the subject.
Regards,
Ken Arnold
Pikeville, NC
Message 23
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: On-line info on making and using form blocks? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk@alltel.net>
Craig-
I should have taken pictures of part forming. Check out Larry
MacFarland's site, but make your "Dimple reliefs" even deeper. Start with
good plywood, 7 ply or the equivalent.The important part is to make sure you
have the 7 degree backangle. Edge radius can be put in by hand.
Contact me for more help. Come to think of it, Greg Boothe just finished
making all his C section ribs- you might want to contact him.
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: "Craig Payne" <craig@craigandjean.com>
Sent: Friday, October 06, 2006 3:52 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: On-line info on making and using form blocks?
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Craig Payne" <craig@craigandjean.com>
>
> I'm a kit builder but it looks like I'm going to have to scratch build a
> custom replacement for one on the bulkheads on my 601XL. I believe I know
> the basics after listening to all the messages on scratch building on this
> list over the years. But does anyone know of a good tutorial or
> step-by-step
> on the web for making a form block from the plans and then using it?
>
> Yes, I know about the Home Built Help DVDs but I was hoping to built the
> part this weekend.
>
> -- Craig
>
>
>
Message 24
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
I would like to take that big step and join the ranks of Zenith
builders. Before building one I would like to fly in one. If you are
near Troutdale ( Portland) Oregon and would be willing to give my wife
and I a test ride in a 601 XL I would appreciate it. Contact me off the
list at darrellhaas@verizon.net and we can work out something regarding
gas etc.
Thank you,
Darrell
Phone 503-465-9572
Do not archive
Message 25
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | On-line info on making and using form blocks? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Craig Payne" <craig@craigandjean.com>
Thanks for the advice. I'm trying MDF instead of plywood. I looked around
Larry's photos and couldn't find any on forming blocks. I'll work through
his log and see if there is a link.
I intend to build a simple trial piece before tackling 6B-12-2 (the baggage
area bulkhead).
-- Craig
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Naumuk
Sent: Friday, October 06, 2006 4:44 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: On-line info on making and using form blocks?
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk@alltel.net>
Craig-
I should have taken pictures of part forming. Check out Larry
MacFarland's site, but make your "Dimple reliefs" even deeper. Start with
good plywood, 7 ply or the equivalent.The important part is to make sure you
have the 7 degree backangle. Edge radius can be put in by hand.
Contact me for more help. Come to think of it, Greg Boothe just finished
making all his C section ribs- you might want to contact him.
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: "Craig Payne" <craig@craigandjean.com>
Sent: Friday, October 06, 2006 3:52 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: On-line info on making and using form blocks?
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Craig Payne"
> --> <craig@craigandjean.com>
>
> I'm a kit builder but it looks like I'm going to have to scratch build
> a custom replacement for one on the bulkheads on my 601XL. I believe I
> know the basics after listening to all the messages on scratch
> building on this list over the years. But does anyone know of a good
> tutorial or step-by-step on the web for making a form block from the
> plans and then using it?
>
> Yes, I know about the Home Built Help DVDs but I was hoping to built
> the part this weekend.
>
> -- Craig
>
>
>
Message 26
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Good advice and another question |
Group,
Thanks for the advice on the 701 top windshield. The guys that said never put
tinting on top of plastic knew what they were talking about. It doesn't stick
right and deforms under heat -- sunlight. I found a guy that puts on a paint
(maybe epoxy) that sticks to the plastic like glue. I can't even scratch it
off. I didn't see him install it but he said you put in on like silk-screen.
It reminds me of those windows on buses that you see a picture from the outside
but sitting inside you can see out. Cuts out about 75 % of the sunlight,
but visibility is still good. Kinda weird !! If I had to do it again I'd buy
myself a tinted piece. I told him about the center diagonal stiffener ( 7-F-12-3)
the top windshield kept vibrating against it and I was afraid that it would
get worse at 85 - 90 mph. He suggested putting a stiff piece of tape on
both sides and fill it up with silicon about 1/2 inch. I did as he said and took
the tape off after about 30 min. and let dry
for 48 hrs. Re-installed the windshield and it squishes-down (is that a word?
) real nice -- no vibration. Thanks guy's !!
I am looking for a good ground adjustable prop to pull this aircraft through
the sky. Is any body out there totally happy with their set-up. I'm using a
912S 100 hp. I am open for suggestions.
Almost there !
Bob
do not archive
---------------------------------
Message 27
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: On-line info on making and using form blocks? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: LarryMcFarland <larry@macsmachine.com>
Hi Craig,
The baggage bulkhead is a good starter for forming blocks. I was lucky
because initially many of my form blocks were obtained from a gentleman
in Indiana named John Shirley who had nearly completed his HDS. He
bought a few parts and had a different fuel system than I so I had to
make a lot of forms anyway and remake some to correct what hed used to
make his wings and fuselage. Ive now nearly two sets of wing rib forms.
The ones I made for my fuselage and fuel tanks and tank ribs were
initially laid out on the plywood using the plans provided data points.
Getting an accurate cut out for the bulkhead is important because it
will set between the bows and rear bulkhead in the tail and provide the
straight line between them in three dimensions. Anyway, trust the data
points and make it accurate.
A band saw would be handy here, and a sanding disk for bringing the
material down to the line. Once youve got the plywood cut out, put a
nice 1/16-inch radius on the side you intend to place the aluminum. On
the opposite side, cut or sand about 7 degrees of back angle so the
aluminum can be over-bent during forming and it will straighten to a
near 90-degree angle. At locations that do not interfere with the rivet
spacing, put crimping notches in the back angled edge that do not get
into the opposing 1/16^th bend radius. The notch locations are either
spelled out or are positioned to not interfere with aligning rivets in
progressive bulkheads. (This is more important for wing ribs than any
other parts.) Make a clamping blank that matches the bending former so
that you have a means of holding the aluminum as you bend the flanges.
Use the form blank to layout your aluminum piece by tracing it using ink
marker. Estimate 20mm or 13/16th inch from the traced line and again
follow the former around to get the flange marked out.
At this time, match center-marks to locate each notch on the flange as
well. Cut the aluminum blank 1/8 inch larger than the flange edge and
then trim it down to the line. De burr the edges. Sandwich the aluminum
piece leaving the flange hanging out and mark bottom corner intersects.
Use a Whitney punch to knock out a 3/16ths hole on center of these
intersections. Cut the 90 degree intersect corner off the flange to the
holes. Trim so the flanges being bent will not interfere with each other
nor touch after bending. Drill and bolt the clamped sandwich two places
so that the orientation doesnt shift during forming. Place the bolted
sandwich in a vise and using a rubber mallet, begin working the flange
about the small radius to an even 45 degrees all round and then place
starting crimps in the radius of the flange at the notch positions. Put
a plastic headed hammer to the flange to bring it around the rest of the
way after crimping has been established. The crimps are carefully
deepened and eventually punched into the notches with a hammer and a
piece of rod the same diameter. When the flange surface has been leveled
all round and seems to hug the former, its time to unbolt the bulkhead
and remove it and make minor adjustments to get the slight over-bend
angle needed to go from one bulkhead to the next or match the fuselage
taper. Usually, a little more crimping and tapping with the plastic
hammer will get it there. The rivet hole pattern should be known before
bending or crimping anything.
Don't be afraid to do all this again if you need better dimensions. We
all have had to do things more than once to get it right.
There you have it. Best of luck,
Larry C. McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
Craig Payne wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Craig Payne" <craig@craigandjean.com>
>
>I'm a kit builder but it looks like I'm going to have to scratch build a
>custom replacement for one on the bulkheads on my 601XL. I believe I know
>the basics after listening to all the messages on scratch building on this
>list over the years. But does anyone know of a good tutorial or step-by-step
>on the web for making a form block from the plans and then using it?
>
>Yes, I know about the Home Built Help DVDs but I was hoping to built the
>part this weekend.
>
>-- Craig
>
>
>
>
Message 28
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: 701 Cruise performance (was FWF kit for Jabiru) |
Ralph,
You may very well be correct, I have an exterior static port and maybe that is
why mine is reading lower.
Bob Spudis
-----Original Message-----
From: sanson.r@xtra.co.nz
Sent: Fri, 6 Oct 2006 12:14 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: 701 Cruise performance (was FWF kit for Jabiru)
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "jetboy" <sanson.r@xtra.co.nz>
VNE is 110 mph.
A point to note about the 701 indicated airspeed is going to be about 15% higher
than it should read. This is because the plans do not specify an external static
vent. Its a cheap and easy way to get good performance figures, and done by many
kitplanes. If someone comments that my 701 is slow, I can just reach down and
pull the static hose off and dial in another 10 knots. I tried this in a Cessna
150 and its the same.
The new cowl and engine mounting is probably worthwhile - particularly for
the 912S which tends to shake the tail.
--------
Ralph - CH701 / 2200a
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=66133#66133
________________________________________________________________________
Check out the new AOL. Most comprehensive set of free safety and security tools,
free access to millions of high-quality videos from across the web, free AOL
Mail and more.
Message 29
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | On-line info on making and using form blocks? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Craig Payne" <craig@craigandjean.com>
Wow, thanks for the detailed reply! One thing I'm still fuzzy on are the
notches in the forming block. What radius are they? Do they extend through
the entire thickness of the block? Or vary from their maximum radius on the
side of the block away from the metal to nothing on the working face? Do I
just file them into the form with a round file? Dave Clay's web site show
him tapping the metal into a notch using the shaft of a socket extension.
That would imply a radius of a bit more than that shaft:
www.daves601xl.com/Wings/wings2/rib1/rib2/rib3/rib7.html
-- Craig
Message 30
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: CH701 Power: Rotax or Jabiru |
Hi Ken,
I agree with your DAR on the desirable features of the Jabiru over
the Rotax. The Rotax needs a PSRU to make it compatible with
aircraft use, and it works very hard compared to the 6 cylinder
Jabiru. The water cooling system also makes it more complex and
prone to failure. It is still a good and popular engine, but I feel
the Jabiru offers a lot more.
The 3300 may be overkill for your airplane when matched with your
desires. Have you considered a Jabiru 2200? I don't have any
experience with any of these engines, but at 120 or 130 HP the 3300
may be a bit much for the occasional circuit around the patch.
Paul
XL fuselage (planning on using 3300)
do not archive
At 02:52 PM 10/6/2006, you wrote:
>Hi List,
>I am making final decision for engine to install on 701. My local
>DAR recommends the Jab 3300 over the 912S. His position is that the
>Jab is easier to maintain, is less complex and has fewer change
>orders. Until today, I have assumed the engine would be a 912S as
>it seems to be the engine of choice for many of the LSA manufacturers.
>
>My mission will be slow cruising around the local area with an
>occasional x-country to the Midwest. Eventually, I would like to
>install floats for some added thrills. Floats, of course, will
>benefit from the 100hp.
>
>I would appreciate any thoughts on the subject.
>Regards,
>Ken Arnold
>Pikeville, NC
---------------------------------------------
Paul Mulwitz
32013 NE Dial Road
Camas, WA 98607
---------------------------------------------
Message 31
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Leak test for fuel tanks. |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Gary Briggs <idyll1@verizon.net>
Here is a very simple and extremely sensitive method of leak testing
the fuel tank:
1. Seal all openings in the tank except the vent.
2. Clamp a piece of tygon tubing to the vent (3 to 4 feet long).
3. Pressure the tank by breathing into the tubing (you don't need
much pressure).
4. Kink the tubing near the tank and hold the kink with a small spring clamp.
5. Add water to the tubing ( I used some food coloring in the water ).
6. Release the clamp and secure the tubing in a U shape ( I taped it
to the leg of my table).
7. Mark the level and note the temperature of the tank, this is very
temperature sensitive ( I used a digital indoor/outdoor
thermometer with the outdoor probe taped to the tank.
Gary Briggs
601 XL
Kennewick, WA
--
Message 32
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: CH701 Power: Rotax or Jabiru |
Ken:
I am facing the same dilemma and until a week ago I was going with
the 3300 because of the support we received from Pete on our last
3300. I concur with your DAR's comments on the 3300.
Now I am reconsidering the 912S again because Cessna and Van's are
planning on using the 912S so more support should be available almost
anywhere.
Stan
Building 701
On Oct 6, 2006, at 3:52 PM, Ken Arnold wrote:
> Hi List,
> I am making final decision for engine to install on 701. My local
> DAR recommends the Jab 3300 over the 912S. His position is that
> the Jab is easier to maintain, is less complex and has fewer change
> orders. Until today, I have assumed the engine would be a 912S as
> it seems to be the engine of choice for many of the LSA manufacturers.
>
> My mission will be slow cruising around the local area with an
> occasional x-country to the Midwest. Eventually, I would like to
> install floats for some added thrills. Floats, of course, will
> benefit from the 100hp.
>
> I would appreciate any thoughts on the subject.
> Regards,
> Ken Arnold
> Pikeville, NC
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List_-
> ============================================================ _-
> forums.matronics.com_-
> ============================================================ _-
> ============================================================ _-
> contribution_-
> ===========================================================
>
Message 33
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | CH701 Power: Rotax or Jabiru |
Cessna is *thinking* about building an LSA:
"Cessna Aircraft Company, a unit of Textron Inc. (NYSE: TXT), today revealed
a proof of concept aircraft that it will use to help determine whether the
company will enter into the popular Light Sport Aircraft sector."
http://cessna.com/news/article.chtml?ID=Q5ii8RnoMh5hFe2Tfxwc5yjv7DwjtYM2IWSA
U5B2nrE3mcXfBF
<http://cessna.com/news/article.chtml?ID=Q5ii8RnoMh5hFe2Tfxwc5yjv7DwjtYM2IWS
AU5B2nrE3mcXfBF&year 06> &year 06
On its own I don't think Van's adoption of the Rotax will do much to
increase support.
Manufactures use the 912S because a version is available which is certified
in the US. But Jabirus are certified in other countries so this doesn't say
much about relative quality.
Me, I'd rather have an engine which is less likely to break rather than one
with more places to fix it if does break.
-- Craig
Message 34
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | CH701 Power: Rotax or Jabiru |
Actually, I am not sure Van is adopting the Rotax for the RV-12. I
spoke with him earlier this year, and he seemed very interested in
asking me what engine I would use for my XL. He didn't say much
about the RV-12 that day, but he clearly indicated the current
prototype they have is just a concept model and not a final
production design. I suggested two changes for him to consider -
changing the engine to the Jabiru, and getting rid of the folding
wings. Again, he did more listening than talking.
My own guess is they need to make some improvements in the RV-12
before putting the kits in production. It is too heavy and the
engine and folding wing issues need to be reexamined. I know there
will be some RV-12 sales out of loyalty to Van's, but it will do a
lot better if it competes well against the other LSA designs.
Paul
XL fuselage
do not archive
>On its own I don't think Van's adoption of the Rotax will do much to
>increase support.
---------------------------------------------
Paul Mulwitz
32013 NE Dial Road
Camas, WA 98607
---------------------------------------------
Message 35
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: CH701 Power: Rotax or Jabiru |
>I am making final decision for engine to install on 701
The 912S has tons of power, is very light, turns a larger prop and has water
cooled heads. That makes a pretty good 701 engine. Very handy if your
climbing out of canyons in the summer. I would suspect the Jabaru would be the
better choice for the 601. I just don't understand why so many aircraft
manufacturers choose the Rotax for their LSA demonstrators. I would love to go
back
country flying with a Jabaru equipped 701. That would be the true test.
Dave Smith
701 912ULS 592hrs
Message 36
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: CH701 Power: |
BTW. My 701 climbs out at 45-50 mph @5500rpm. Cruises two up, half tanks,
5500rpm at 95 mph. Lift strut fairings increased the speed from 88 to
95mph.Fuel burn is exactly 4GPH at cruise.
Dave Smith
N701XL
> do not archive <
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|