Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:51 AM - Re:power panels (T. Graziano)
2. 10:39 AM - HOmade tool for Driving Solid Rivets (4rcsimmons@comcast.net (Rich Simmons))
3. 11:03 AM - 1080HD Bungees (Gpjann@aol.com)
4. 11:09 AM - Re: HOmade tool for Driving Solid Rivets (Jaybannist@cs.com)
5. 11:27 AM - Re: HOmade tool for Driving Solid Rivets (Paul Mulwitz)
6. 11:31 AM - Re: HOmade tool for Driving Solid Rivets (Zodie Rocket)
7. 11:39 AM - Re: HOmade tool for Driving Solid Rivets (Debo Cox)
8. 11:49 AM - Re: the solid rivets (Zed Smith)
9. 11:56 AM - Re: Nose gear bungees (Klaus Truemper)
10. 02:40 PM - Re: On-line info on making and using form blocks? (Ron Lendon)
11. 03:00 PM - Re: HOmade tool for Driving Solid Rivets (Robert L. Stone)
12. 05:00 PM - Test email (Ron Lendon)
13. 05:10 PM - 801 fuel sender inspection covers. (Dave Ruddiman)
14. 05:11 PM - Re: Test email (Craig Payne)
15. 05:19 PM - "Stretched" aluminum (Jaybannist@cs.com)
16. 05:44 PM - Anyone know about an optical fuel sensor? (doug kandle)
17. 05:49 PM - Re: "Stretched" aluminum (LarryMcFarland)
18. 06:07 PM - Re: "Stretched" aluminum (Jeff)
19. 06:13 PM - Re: "Stretched" aluminum (Jaybannist@cs.com)
20. 06:51 PM - Re: Test email (Ron Lendon)
21. 07:16 PM - Re: (kevinbonds)
22. 07:38 PM - Re: Anyone know about an optical fuel sensor? (Tom)
23. 08:34 PM - Re: Anyone know about an optical fuel sensor? (Noel Loveys)
24. 10:32 PM - Re: Re: Nose gear bungees (xl)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "T. Graziano" <tonyplane@bellsouth.net>
Jeff,,
I used the Composite Design on my XL/Jab. I like it and it made the wiring
easier.
See
http://www.zenithair.com/zodiac/6-photo79.html
Tony Graziano
601XL N493TG; 154 hrs
------------------------------------
> Time: 02:23:39 PM PST US
> From: "Jeff " <jeffrey_davidson@earthlink.net>
> Subject: Zenith-List: power panels
>
> I'm moving on to the electrical systems and considering "power panels".
> There seem to be two products in the market to simplify building
> electrical
> systems. These are the EXPBUS 2V by Control Vision Corporation and the
> Power Panel by Composite Design. Both also have variations of the product
> available. The EXP BUS is sold by Van's for use in the RVs. Has anyone
> considered using either of these for 601s? Any installations or
> recommendations? Thanks ..
>
>
> Jeff Davidson
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | HOmade tool for Driving Solid Rivets |
A few weeks ago, I was looking at a WEB site of someone posting to this list.
On it they had a simple devise for driving solid rivets. I would like to use this
on the access cover floating nuts.
Can any body send me to this WEB site?
Yes! I am avoiding the $300 Rivet gun!
Rich Simmons
601XL
Left wing complete, working on Right hand.
<html><body>
<DIV>
<DIV class=Section1>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY:
Arial">A few weeks ago, I was looking at a WEB site of someone posting
to this list.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office"
/><o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY:
Arial"><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY:
Arial">On it they had a simple devise for driving solid rivets. I would
like to use this on the access cover floating nuts. <o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY:
Arial"><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY:
Arial">Can any body send me to this WEB site?<o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY:
Arial"><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY:
Arial">Yes! I am avoiding the $300 Rivet gun!<o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY:
Arial"><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY:
Arial">Rich Simmons<o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY:
Arial">601XL<o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY:
Arial">Left wing complete, working on Right hand.<o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P></DIV></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre></body></html>
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
The HD after the 1080 denotes 'Heavy Duty'. While the length is the same the
diameter of the bungee is larger.
Hope this helps....
GPJ
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: HOmade tool for Driving Solid Rivets |
Rich, Those tiny rivets for the nutplates are relatively soft. I placed two
rivets, countrsunk heads down, on a heavy piece of steel (the same beams used
for wing construction & leveling), at about the spacing of the holes in the
nutplates, then lowered the aluminum sheet & nutplate over the rivets. Using a
short 1/4" bolt against the end of the rivet, I gave the head of the bolt two
or three whacks with a hammer. It's really easier than it sounds, once you get
a process going, and you really don't need any fancy tools.
Jay in Dallas, working on XL canopy
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: HOmade tool for Driving Solid Rivets |
Hi Rich,
I just use a standard arbor press for setting solid rivets on nut
plates. I already had one in my shop, but you can get a one ton
press fro around $50.
Good luck
Paul
XL fuselage
>
>
>On it they had a simple devise for driving solid rivets. I would
>like to use this on the access cover floating nuts.
>
>
>Can any body send me to this WEB site?
>
>
>Yes! I am avoiding the $300 Rivet gun!
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | HOmade tool for Driving Solid Rivets |
Rich, head on over to the resource section of HYPERLINK
"http://www.ch601.org/"www.ch601.org
Mark Townsend Alma, Ontario
Zodiac 601XL C-GOXL, CH701 just started
HYPERLINK "http://www.ch601.org"www.ch601.org / HYPERLINK
"http://www.ch701.com"www.ch701.com/ HYPERLINK
"http://www.Osprey2.com"www.Osprey2.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rich
Simmons
Sent: Monday, October 09, 2006 1:38 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: HOmade tool for Driving Solid Rivets
A few weeks ago, I was looking at a WEB site of someone posting to this
list.
On it they had a simple devise for driving solid rivets. I would like to
use this on the access cover floating nuts.
Can any body send me to this WEB site?
Yes! I am avoiding the $300 Rivet gun!
Rich Simmons
601XL
Left wing complete, working on Right hand.
"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List"http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?Zenith-List
"http://forums.matronics.com"http://forums.matronics.com
"http://www.matronics.com/contribution"http://www.matronics.com/contribu
tion
--
10/7/2006
--
10/7/2006
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: HOmade tool for Driving Solid Rivets |
Hey Rich,
I think you're talking about Dave Clay's web site. Scroll to the bottom of the
home page, and there are some links in red text. Even if this is not what you're
looking for, it's a great site.
http://www.daves601xl.com/
Debo Cox
XL/Corvair
Working on wing spars
Do not archive
Rich Simmons <4rcsimmons@comcast.net> wrote:
A few weeks ago, I was looking at a WEB site of someone posting to this
list.
On it they had a simple devise for driving solid rivets. I would like to use
this on the access cover floating nuts.
Can any body send me to this WEB site?
Yes! I am avoiding the $300 Rivet gun!
Rich Simmons
601XL
Left wing complete, working on Right hand.
---------------------------------
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: the solid rivets |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Zed Smith <zsmith3rd@earthlink.net>
This may not apply to the immediate problem, but for those who still haven't tackled
the trailing edges found on the 701: As a CPR (Certified Pack Rat), I just
couldn't pass up a large box of used wire-terminal crimpers at a Ham sidewalk
sale. Major brands, ratcheting stuff, NASA-looking tools, major-aircraft-manufacturer-looking,
and so on.
There were all sorts of "specials" included....stuff from high tech, low tech,
aviation, pin inserters, pin removers, etc.
One resembled just plain old pliers, but with an extra set of pivots so that the
end result was "parallel jaws".
That is, when in the open position the jaws are parallel, same as when closed.
Since the jaws closed completely, as would a large Linemens' Pliers, and were smooth
(no ridges), I pulled the pivot pins and ground one jaw to allow just enough
room to set the 3/32" solids. When re-assembled it did a really good job.
Would have helped if the handles had been longer for more mechanical advantage,
but changing hands and taking a break does okay, too. Obviously this approach
only works for one material thickness, and requires complete closing of
the jaws each time, but it saved time and money.
End result is that the top and bottom surfaces of the rivets are parallel and all
the same height.
Works best with nice new soft rivets.
Batteries not included, some assembly required, have your major card ready, operators
are standing by, do not archive.
Regards,
Zed/701/R912/90++%/etc
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Nose gear bungees |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Klaus Truemper <klaus@utdallas.edu>
Hi,
The nose gear bungees seem to fail because of the small diameter of the
four tubes where the bungee makes an almost-180 deg turn. In my case, the
muffler is in the area of the bungee, but twice the failure came from
fraying
at one of the tubes. A simple fix of the small-diameter problem does not
seem possible, and replacing the bungee every 500 hours may be the
most convenient solution.
The use of sandbags on the horizontal stabilizer to lift the nose gear
is not
such a good idea. One might argue that this okay since the horizontal
stabilizer/elevator must lift the nose gear on takeoff. But
when the plane rotates on takeoff, the wings already
carry almost all of the weight of
the airplane. Thus, the horizontal stabilizer/elevator force
needed for rotation on takeoff is much, much
smaller than the force needed to lift the nose gear while parked.
Cessna some years ago had failures of the horizontal stabilizer
spar of the 152 because people would push down on the elevevator to lift
the nose gear when parking the plane in a tight spot.
Best wishes,
Klaus Truemper
--
Klaus Truemper
Professor Emeritus of Computer Science
University of Texas at Dallas
Erik Jonsson School of Engineering and
Computer Science EC31
P.O. Box 830688
Richardson, TX 75083-0688
(972) 883-2712
klaus@utdallas.edu
www.utdallas.edu/~klaus
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: On-line info on making and using form blocks? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Ron Lendon" <rlendon@comcast.net>
Craig and all others,
Take a look at the message at the fourm. The links work there.
http://forums.matronics.com/index.php
--------
Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
Corvair Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=66803#66803
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: HOmade tool for Driving Solid Rivets |
Here it is
http://www.daves601xl.com/
Bob Stone, Harker Heights, Tx
ZodiacXL
----- Original Message -----
From: Rich Simmons
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, October 09, 2006 12:37 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: HOmade tool for Driving Solid Rivets
A few weeks ago, I was looking at a WEB site of someone posting to
this list.
On it they had a simple devise for driving solid rivets. I would like
to use this on the access cover floating nuts.
Can any body send me to this WEB site?
Yes! I am avoiding the $300 Rivet gun!
Rich Simmons
601XL
Left wing complete, working on Right hand.
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Ron Lendon" <rlendon@comcast.net>
Here are a couple of links where I show the process I used in making all my forms.
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=rlendon&project=113&category=1279&log-05&row=29
and
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=rlendon&project=113&category=1279&log-25&row=28
and this one for the crimp locations
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=rlendon&project=113&category=0&log=19861&row=39
Hope that helps.
--------
Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
Corvair Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=66826#66826
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | 801 fuel sender inspection covers. |
What might the suggested diameter be for the inspection/access holes for
the fuel sending units. They are about 3" in diameter. I am going to use
doublers with nut plates to install them. Has anyone actually had to get
to them after the top skin is on? I assume the plate should be .025, but
what about the doubler?
Thanks in advance
Dave in Salem
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Craig Payne" <craig@craigandjean.com>
This time I see the links. I get indivual messages from the list.
-- Craig
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Lendon
Sent: Monday, October 09, 2006 6:00 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Test email
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Ron Lendon" <rlendon@comcast.net>
Here are a couple of links where I show the process I used in making all my
forms.
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=rlendon&project=113&categ
ory=1279&log-05&row=29
and
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=rlendon&project=113&categ
ory=1279&log-25&row=28
and this one for the crimp locations
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=rlendon&project=113&categ
ory=0&log=19861&row=39
Hope that helps.
--------
Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
Corvair Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=66826#66826
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | "Stretched" aluminum |
Hey folks, I just completed the fitting of the XL canopy inside flashing. I
did the "stretching" on the top flange called for in the photo guide to make
the panel curve to fit. It fits, but it looks like "hammered hell" !!. Has
anyone else had this result and, if so, what did you do to improve the
appearance? I haven't drilled for the top angle, so I am thinking about just adding
a
cut-to-fit piece of .025 to the top of the inside flashing. Any suggestions?
Jay in Dallas, working on XL canopy
Do not Archive
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Anyone know about an optical fuel sensor? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "doug kandle" <d_kandle@velocitus.net>
I have the extra tanks in my 701. The only way to use all of the gas in my tanks
is to run one set dry. Since I don't want my starter motor to become a required
piece of hardware for continued flight, I need to switch tanks after I have
used all the fuel, but before the engine quits. I am plumbing my fuel lines
and I wanted something to tell me that my fuel tank has run dry. I figure that
the gas in my fuel lines from wing, through gasolator, and to the engine will
keep the fan going long enough for me to switch to my outboard tanks.
A friend of mine put an optical sensor in his plane. This is an alert system. (link to aircraft spruce item here http://aircraftspruce.com/catalog/inpages/fuelguardian.php) But this is a complete system, I just want a sensor like this that I can put in my fuel line at the wing root. If I can just get a contact closure then I can use my EIS to annunciate the warning and give me 30 seconds or more to switch tanks.
Does anyone know where I can get such a sensor with just a contact closure?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=66837#66837
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: "Stretched" aluminum |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: LarryMcFarland <larry@macsmachine.com>
Jay,
When you hammer a flashing that curves, you place the hammer on the
inside of the sheet and the side that will be seen should be on a smooth
piece of steel.
Then all the marks will be on the inside and the surface showing will
mirror the surface of the steel block. See links of pieces. Template
ink curve is a gage on the table.
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/canopy/full/flashinghammered.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/canopy/full/canopycurvegap.gif
This also applies to the piece you form to join the fuselage skin to the
wing.
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/canopy/full/cnpyrailcover.gif
I'd do it over again. Doesn't take that much time to get it right.
Otherwise, you might just beat on it from the correct side and see if
you can get rid of the marks.
Worst case, sand prime and fill the imperfections, but it would take
less time to redo it than make excuses for why you added a "fudge cover".
Respectfully,
Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
Jaybannist@cs.com wrote:
> Hey folks, I just completed the fitting of the XL canopy inside
> flashing. I did the "stretching" on the top flange called for in the
> photo guide to make the panel curve to fit. It fits, but it looks
> like "hammered hell" !!. Has anyone else had this result and, if so,
> what did you do to improve the appearance? I haven't drilled for the
> top angle, so I am thinking about just adding a cut-to-fit piece of
> .025 to the top of the inside flashing. Any suggestions?
>
> Jay in Dallas, working on XL canopy
>
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | "Stretched" aluminum |
Jay,
I had the same effect on the inside canopy frame trim. I just
painted it while I had the pieces separated and moved on! A
shrinker/stretcher tool might have left a better looking result despite the
marks it leaves.
Jeff Davidson
Hey folks, I just completed the fitting of the XL canopy inside flashing. I
did the "stretching" on the top flange called for in the photo guide to make
the panel curve to fit. It fits, but it looks like "hammered hell" !!. Has
anyone else had this result and, if so, what did you do to improve the
appearance? I haven't drilled for the top angle, so I am thinking about
just adding a cut-to-fit piece of .025 to the top of the inside flashing.
Any suggestions?
Jay in Dallas, working on XL canopy
Do not Archive
Message 19
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: "Stretched" aluminum |
Larry, Thanks for the advise. I'll probably start over and do it right this
time.
I am surprised about your comment regarding "the piece to connect the
fuselage skin to the wing." My kit has a rubber fairing strip. Has something
changed? Or is this just a better way to do it?
Jay in Dallas
Do not archive
Message 20
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Ron Lendon" <rlendon@comcast.net>
Thats interesting. I posted this at the forum just like the other one.
I set myself up again to receive emails from the list so I can see what you are
seeing.
I am keeping quite a comprehenshive log of my activities and trying to show the
procedures used. Again Hope it helps you.
--------
Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
Corvair Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=66850#66850
Message 21
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
The one over Bromont golf course is better. He now has a gyro in the VR
goggles that control the camera. Take a look at this one.
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-2237947353453839215
Kevin Bonds
Nashville TN
601XL Plans building.
<http://home.comcast.net/~kevinbonds> http://home.comcast.net/~kevinbonds
do not archive DO NOT ARCHIVE
_____
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Grant Corriveau
Sent: Thursday, October 05, 2006 12:40 AM
Subject: Zenith-List:
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=7239242995971908820
this time with the link!! sorry,
Message 22
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Anyone know about an optical fuel sensor? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Tom" <tomp@cogeco.ca>
My impression of what you want to do sounds like very risky fuel management to
me. Why don't you calculate your fuel out and leave some fuel, enough that if
you had to switch back to it you could run for a half an hour?
--------
Tom CH801
http://tompizza.webhop.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=66862#66862
Message 23
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Anyone know about an optical fuel sensor? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Noel Loveys" <noelloveys@yahoo.ca>
Why not "T" in the outboard tanks? Then there would be no connecting,
disconnecting, or fuel spraying around the cockpit.
I'm also thinking that thirty seconds can pass pretty fast especially if
there is any turbulence or a radio call. It could go especially fast if you
are calling downwind leg. The best thing could be to have a small header
tank, maybe a gallon, and put a float sensor on it.
Noel
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> doug kandle
> Sent: Monday, October 09, 2006 10:14 PM
> To: zenith-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Zenith-List: Anyone know about an optical fuel sensor?
>
>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "doug kandle"
> <d_kandle@velocitus.net>
>
> I have the extra tanks in my 701. The only way to use all of
> the gas in my tanks is to run one set dry. Since I don't
> want my starter motor to become a required piece of hardware
> for continued flight, I need to switch tanks after I have
> used all the fuel, but before the engine quits. I am
> plumbing my fuel lines and I wanted something to tell me that
> my fuel tank has run dry. I figure that the gas in my fuel
> lines from wing, through gasolator, and to the engine will
> keep the fan going long enough for me to switch to my outboard tanks.
>
> A friend of mine put an optical sensor in his plane. This is
> an alert system. (link to aircraft spruce item here
> http://aircraftspruce.com/catalog/inpages/fuelguardian.php)
> But this is a complete system, I just want a sensor like this
> that I can put in my fuel line at the wing root. If I can
> just get a contact closure then I can use my EIS to
> annunciate the warning and give me 30 seconds or more to
> switch tanks.
> Does anyone know where I can get such a sensor with just a
> contact closure?
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=66837#66837
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 24
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Nose gear bungees |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: xl <xl@prosody.org>
I don't want to win a Darwin award - save me from that.
I place the sandbags at the root of the elevator, not at the outboard
ends. I will not use the sandbags if it will cause damage. I obviously,
don't think that placing 120 pounds of sand on the root of the elevator
will damage the elevator. I want to know if I'm wrong. Two G steep turns
must place more than 120 pounds of apparent weight on the elevator. I
agree that in flight the CG is forward of the landing gear and less force
is needed to lift the nose. But, on takeoff I tend to pull to lift the nose,
the 601XL is nose heavy, and that must take about the same force as
lifting the nose at rest - the wheels are still on the ground. The
'weight' on the elevator needed to rotate the nose during takeoff must be
close to 120 pounds. The wing is carrying some of the weight, but the
engine still must be lifted.
I have a structural engineering type friend whom I will ask to do some
calculations. I'd like some calculations to show how much apparent weight
is on the elevator at takeoff and in a 2G turn. He has examined the wings
and has found that the 6G loading design is accurate.
Joe E
N633Z @ BFI
CH601XL 400 hours (and hoping for more)
do not archive
P.S. I will use O2 above 12,500 feet, I've been to 17,400.
On Mon, 9 Oct 2006, Klaus Truemper wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Klaus Truemper <klaus@utdallas.edu>
> ......snip
> The use of sandbags on the horizontal stabilizer to lift the nose gear
> is not such a good idea. One might argue that this okay since the
> horizontal stabilizer/elevator must lift the nose gear on takeoff. But
> when the plane rotates on takeoff, the wings already carry almost all
> of the weight of the airplane. Thus, the horizontal stabilizer/elevator
> force needed for rotation on takeoff is much, much smaller than the
> force needed to lift the nose gear while parked. Cessna some years ago
> had failures of the horizontal stabilizer spar of the 152 because
> people would push down on the elevevator to lift the nose gear when
> parking the plane in a tight spot.
> Best wishes, Klaus Truemper
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|