Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:13 AM - Solid Riveting Problem - Solved (Debo Cox)
2. 04:24 AM - Is the Digest Down??? (lwhitlow)
3. 05:27 AM - Re: picture of the day + question (Jim Hoak)
4. 05:43 AM - Re: Wing Locker (ernie)
5. 05:52 AM - Transceiver / Transponder and RAC grips (Jeffrey A Beachy)
6. 06:06 AM - Re: picture of the day + question (Aaron Gustafson)
7. 06:06 AM - Re: Solid Riveting Problem (Geoff Heap)
8. 06:16 AM - Re: Jabiru Class (Charles Wacker)
9. 06:18 AM - Re: Solid Riveting Problem - Solved (Geoff Heap)
10. 06:25 AM - Re: Transceiver / Transponder and RAC grips (n801bh@netzero.com)
11. 06:27 AM - Re: Transceiver / Transponder and RAC grips (Trainnut01@aol.com)
12. 06:29 AM - Re: Wing Locker (Trainnut01@aol.com)
13. 06:30 AM - Re: Solid Riveting Problem - Solved (Geoff Heap)
14. 06:33 AM - Re: 601HD accident (Geoff Heap)
15. 06:44 AM - Re: Transceiver / Transponder and RAC grips (Juan Vega)
16. 07:19 AM - Re: Solid Riveting Problem - Solved (Dave Ruddiman)
17. 07:37 AM - RE : Re: picture of the day + question (Carlos Sa)
18. 07:43 AM - Re: Transceiver / Transponder and RAC grips ()
19. 08:06 AM - 601 seat belt attachment history. (601corvair)
20. 08:17 AM - Culver Props/ Valley Eng 701 VW engine firewall forward package (Monty Graves)
21. 08:32 AM - Re: Wing Locker (Trainnut01@aol.com)
22. 10:22 AM - Re: Solid Riveting Problem (Ron Lendon)
23. 10:42 AM - Re: Re: Solid Riveting Problem - Solved (Debo Cox)
24. 01:00 PM - Re: picture of the day + question (Craig Payne)
25. 01:27 PM - Sensenich Composite Prop for sale (Tim Juhl)
26. 01:41 PM - Aeroflash power supply (george may)
27. 01:41 PM - Aeroflash power supply (george may)
28. 03:59 PM - New e-mail list: Mgl Avionics Stratomaster Users Group (Craig Payne)
29. 05:46 PM - Re: picture of the day + question (Bill Naumuk)
30. 11:54 PM - Re: 601 seat belt attachment history. (Afterfxllc@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Solid Riveting Problem - Solved |
Thanks to everyone who asked good questions and answered my question about spar
cap buckling during riveting. Turns out that it was just my inexperience showing
- not properly clamping the workpiece. Once I firmly clamped everything down
with a little special tool I made, it solved the problem. Once again the list
comes through - thanks!
Debo Cox
Nags Head, NC
XL/Corvair
Do not archive
---------------------------------
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Message 2
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| Subject: | Is the Digest Down??? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "lwhitlow" <ldwhitlow@comcast.net>
Hi All
I haven't got the digest in the past two days. Is it down?? Or have the fine folks
at Comcast screwed up the spam filter again
Larry Whitlow
601XL
Tail -DONE
Control Surfaces - DONE
Right Wing - 95%
Left Wing 30%
Fuse - SOON!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=70093#70093
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: picture of the day + question |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jim Hoak" <planejim@bellsouth.net>
Carlos,
I built a 601HD 10 years ago. Your work looks great. I used the same method
to hold the nose ribs when I built my Midget Mustang I ( many years ago ),
the one and onle All Metal PDQ ( nearly 30 years ago ) and the HD. However,
I suggest you use the construction sequence of installing the top and bottom
aft skins first ( being very careful to keep the whole thing square and
level as you drill and rivet ) before installing the nose ( leading edge
skin ). You will probably use straps to pull the L/E skin into place. Having
the rest of the wing square and level ( and secured that way ) is important
when drilling the L/E skin in place. I built a twisted left wing the first
time around - be careful.
Also be aware that the nose ribs, even though you have them secured with the
wooden blocks and threaded rod, can still flex some. I would still put the
thin black line down the center of the flange of all the ribs, including the
nose ribs, before starting the drilling operation. When the 3/32" ( #40
bit ) hole is drilled through the skin, you will feel better to see that
black line just under the hole.
That is a unique trick using the rivet stems taped to the edges of the
flanges. I would never have thought of that and I've been doing this stuff
for about 50 years.
Good luck with your building.
Jim Hoak 601HD Rotax 912UL 532 hours.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Carlos Sa" <carlosfsa@yahoo.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 9:45 PM
Subject: [Norton AntiSpam] Zenith-List: picture of the day + question
> Hello, listers
>
> Here's a picture of the nose ribs (right outboard panel, CH601-HD) clecoed
> to the spar.
> Probably one of the last -HDs being built these days...
> The threaded rod with the wood blocks keeps the ribs parallel to each
> other. I only need to make
> the first one perpendicular to the spar, and all the other will be in
> position.
> The white stripes are pieces of masking tape that are holding rivet stems
> (steel), one on each
> side of the flange (over kill, one would be more than enough). This way
> I'll be able to locate
> the flange edges with a magnet when the ribs are covered with the skin.
> Already tested, and works
> nicely.
>
> Question: the construction manual says you should (a) rivet all the ribs
> to the spar; (b) rivet
> the rear spar to the ribs (b) drill and rivet the rear (top and bottom)
> skins, and only then (e)
> drill and rivet the nose skin.
> I'm thinking that doing the nose skin first of all would make the fitting
> of the nose skin much
> easier. But, I am afraid of painting myself into a corner - although I
> haven't seen a corner or
> any paint...
>
> Does anybody see any "gotchas"?
>
> Thanks in advance for your insight
>
> Carlos Sa
> CH601-HD, plans
> Montreal, Canada
> do not archive (until a good answer is found :o) )
>
> __________________________________________________
> En finir avec le spam? Yahoo! Courriel vous offre la meilleure protection
> possible contre les messages non nollicits
> http://mail.yahoo.ca Yahoo! Courriel
Message 4
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Carroll,
When I look at the Camlocks, there is 2600,2700,and 4200 series. The
selection table -1 or -2 should be used. I am a long way from needing this
things but since the discussion is going on now. What type did you use?
Thanks Ernie
On 10/24/06, Trainnut01@aol.com <Trainnut01@aol.com> wrote:
>
> Michael
> I used Camlock fasteners on mine. I had to make new doors but the original
> fasteners were, as you say, "crappy." The Camlocks look good and work
> wonderfully. They have a retaining ring that keeps them in place when the
> locker is open also. Got them from ACS.
> Carroll Jernigan
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Transceiver / Transponder and RAC grips |
I am purchasing the last of my panel instruments. Due to space
considerations, I have narrowed my transceiver and transponder choices to
the Microair 760 and T2000 or the Becker 4201/4401. Microair sells a
"Works Combo Kit" which includes the radio, transponder, wiring harness
and a PM501 intercom for $3151.00 through ACS. The Becker is a bit more
expensive. Has anyone used either of these in a CH701?
I am also wondering which RAC grips to install on my Y stick. If I spring
for the G5 or G7, can my radio be controlled via the switches in these
grips? The top mounted push-to-talk button on the G1 seems like the best
location to avoid inadvertent pushes, but being able to switch channels
via the stick would make the trigger push-to-talk G5 or G7 a worthwhile
consideration.
Thanks to all.
CH701, 80% completed
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: picture of the day + question |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Aaron Gustafson" <agustafson@chartermi.net>
How do I get to see these "pictures of the day? The latest photo that shows
up in the 'photoshare' site is in July.
Aaron Gustafson do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Hoak" <planejim@bellsouth.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 25, 2006 7:26 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: picture of the day + question
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Solid Riveting Problem |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Geoff Heap" <stol10@comcast.net>
Debo. Just looking at the one pic you posted I would suggest that the hole distances
for those two adjacent clecos are not lined up. I.E. The hole to hole distance
in the angle seen in the pic is greater than the hole to hole distance
in the spar underneath. OK, so you may clamp close by as you drive the rivet but
the vibration may be causing the two surfaces to "bounce against each other
and rivet material is able to infiltrate the gap. I would suggest you remove
all clecos in the assy except one near the middle. Now start adding clecos one
at a time in every 4th hole but look critically at the flatness of the whole
thing as you add each one. Any time you add a cleco and see that there is ANY
seperation between the two parts (in between the two clecoes you last added) the
hole alignment is off and you need to run a reamer through those holes. the
difference will be small enough that you will not see it. If you continue as
you were without fixind this problem your spar will probably end up wavy instead
of flat. Actually it will not be wavy. It will WANT to be wavy but will be
prevented from doing so by the strength in the angle. This means you will be setting
up some small stresses in the assy. If you took two thin test strips a
couple of feet long and had this alignment problem you would see the waviness
clearly. The fix is easy and cheap. Buy a Reamer if you don't have one of that
hole size and run iy though the culprit holes. This is not an uncommon problem
but its hard to explain with a keyboard. Contact me directly by email if any
of this is not clear.......Geoff...If you have any electrical problems, call
me last.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=70108#70108
Message 8
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Charles Wacker" <ccwacker@hotmail.com>
The economizer kit is built into the current carbs and is supposed to give
aabout 5gph at cruise.
>From: Juan Vega <amyvega2005@earthlink.net>
>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Jabiru Class
>Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2006 18:52:11 -0400 (GMT-04:00)
>
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: Juan Vega <amyvega2005@earthlink.net>
>
>Chuck,
>what is the econizer kit? is that an add on to the bing carb? I typ[ically
>fly 5 to 8000 feet here in Fla, due to heat.
>Juan
>
>-----Original Message-----
> >From: Charles Wacker <ccwacker@HOTMAIL.COM>
> >Sent: Oct 24, 2006 3:54 PM
> >To: zenith-list@matronics.com
> >Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Jabiru Class
> >
> >--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Charles Wacker"
><ccwacker@hotmail.com>
> >
> >I echo Tim, the class was great. The one thing that I always enjoy about
> >these get togethers is the people. I was pleased to see two guys that
>were
> >at the rudder class at Zenith in March.
> >
> >Chuck Wacker, N601CW
> >Quick Build, Wings done, tail feathers done, ready to hang engine
> >
> >
> >>From: "Tim Juhl" <juhl@avci.net>
> >>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
> >>Subject: Zenith-List: Jabiru Class
> >>Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2006 10:49:36 -0700
> >>
> >>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Tim Juhl" <juhl@avci.net>
> >>
> >>I just returned from three days in Shelbyville, TN attending a class on
> >>installing a Jabiru 3300 in a Zodiac XL. Pete and Mark were great hosts
> >>and I found the class to be useful and enjoyed the chance to meet other
>XL
> >>builders.
> >>
> >>I must say that if anything I am now even more impressed by the Jabiru
> >>engine, especially with the Bing carburetor and it's economizer kit. The
> >>quality of the firewall forward kit is excellent and the cowlings
> >>well-designed and well made.
> >>
> >>Now all I have to do is get the rest of the airplane done so I can hang
>my
> >>engine on it!
> >>
> >>Tim
> >>Do not archive
> >>
> >>--------
> >>DO NOT ARCHIVE
> >>______________
> >>CFII
> >>Champ L16A flying
> >>Zodiac XL - Working on wings
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>Read this topic online here:
> >>
> >>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=69931#69931
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >_________________________________________________________________
> >All-in-one security and maintenance for your PC. Get a free 90-day
>trial!
> >http://clk.atdmt.com/MSN/go/msnnkwlo0050000002msn/direct/01/?href=http://www.windowsonecare.com/?sc_cid=msn_hotmail
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Get FREE company branded e-mail accounts and business Web site from
Microsoft Office Live
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Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Solid Riveting Problem - Solved |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Geoff Heap" <stol10@comcast.net>
Debo I see your new post saying that you overcame the problem. I would caution
you though. That may be exactly what you did. Overcame it. The problem is probably
still there and you are forcing a fit. You said yourself, you did not get
this problem before. There should be no need EVER to make any kind of special
tool or clamp for this kind of riveting. Two flat pieces of material laying on
top of each other do not need to be clamped together. I don't think you got
rid of the problem. You got around it. please look again. Just trying to help....Geoff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=70113#70113
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Transceiver / Transponder and RAC grips |
I used the G5 grip on my 801's Y stick, never had a problem with inadver
tant keying of the mike, I also use the rockers for trim up and down, on
e of the other switches indent my transponder and the last one is vacant
for future use.
do not archive
Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
-- Jeffrey A Beachy <beachyjeff@juno.com> wrote:
I am purchasing the last of my panel instruments. Due to space considera
tions, I have narrowed my transceiver and transponder choices to the Mic
roair 760 and T2000 or the Becker 4201/4401. Microair sells a "Works Com
bo Kit" which includes the radio, transponder, wiring harness and a PM50
1 intercom for $3151.00 through ACS. The Becker is a bit more expensive.
Has anyone used either of these in a CH701? I am also wondering which
RAC grips to install on my Y stick. If I spring for the G5 or G7, can my
radio be controlled via the switches in these grips? The top mounted pu
sh-to-talk button on the G1 seems like the best location to avoid inadve
rtent pushes, but being able to switch channels via the stick would make
the trigger push-to-talk G5 or G7 a worthwhile consideration.
========================
========================
========================
-========================
========================
========================
========================
========================
====
<html><P>I used the G5 grip on my 801's Y stick, never had a problem wit
h inadvertant keying of the mike, I also use the rockers for trim up and
down, one of the other switches indent my transponder and the last one
is vacant for future use.</P>
<P>do not archive<BR><BR><BR>Ben Haas<BR>N801BH<BR>www.haaspowerair
.com<BR><BR>-- Jeffrey A Beachy <beachyjeff@juno.
com> wrote:<BR></P>
<DIV>I am purchasing the last of my panel instruments. Due to space cons
iderations, I have narrowed my transceiver and transponder choices to th
e Microair 760 and T2000 or the Becker 4201/4401. Microair sells a "Work
s Combo Kit" which includes the radio, transponder, wiring harness and a
PM501 intercom for $3151.00 through ACS. The Becker is a bit more expen
sive. Has anyone used either of these in a CH701? </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I am also wondering which RAC grips to install on my Y stick. If I
spring for the G5 or G7, can my radio be controlled via the switches in
these grips? The top mounted push-to-talk button on the G1 seems like th
e best location to avoid inadvertent pushes, but being able to switch ch
annels via the stick would make the trigger push-to-talk G5 or G7 a wort
hwhile consideration. </DIV>
<DIV><BR>Thanks to all.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>CH701, 80% completed</DIV><PRE><B><FONT face="courier new,courier
" color=#000000 size=2>
========================
===========
">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List</A>
========================
===========
tronics.com</A>
========================
===========
ics.com</A>
========================
===========
www.matronics.com/contribution</A>
========================
===========
</B></FONT></PRE>
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre></body></html>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Transceiver / Transponder and RAC grips |
I used the G7 in my RV and love it. The trigger type push to talk button is
not a problem at all. One of the extra top buttons is used to disconnect the
autopilot for course corrections and the other is used to advance the radio
channel. I plan to set up my 601 the same way.
Carroll Jernigan
601XL Still working on the wings.
Message 12
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Ernie,
I will be at the hangar this afternoon and I will look at my invoices and
post those part numbers as soon as I get there.
Carroll Jernigan
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Solid Riveting Problem - Solved |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Geoff Heap" <stol10@comcast.net>
Debo Don't want to keep beating you up but I just looked at your pic again and
noticed. that cleco on the right is bending away very clearly showing that the
holes are out of alignment.....Geoff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=70116#70116
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: 601HD accident |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Geoff Heap" <stol10@comcast.net>
Seconded......Geoff
do not archive
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=70121#70121
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Transceiver / Transponder and RAC grips |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Juan Vega <amyvega2005@earthlink.net>
The issue when looking at radio/txspr combo is if the transpondr gets pinged enough,
do they overheat or shut down. I read somewhere, and asked many builders,
that some of the units like Micro don't have the circuitry to handle a large
Class B airspace, thus they shut down on their own sometimes. SO in researching
the Becker. Their capacity for intense use is higher, so for $200.00
more it is worth it, if you are flying in heavy controlled airspace. The price
at Aircraft spruce is $3000.00 for the combo, pretty close to the Microair.
Also it is ease of use when trhings get busy in the cockpit. compare the face
of each unit.
, I did and found the Becker more user friendly for me, in a busy environment.
So to recap, capacitor threshhold, and easy function, and construction. Don't
look at the dollars. It is irellevant at 5,000 ft cruising 140mph and something
goes out on you or you can't get it to do what you want.
Juan
Juan
Juan
-----Original Message-----
>From: Jeffrey A Beachy <beachyjeff@juno.com>
>Sent: Oct 25, 2006 8:50 AM
>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Zenith-List: Transceiver / Transponder and RAC grips
>
>I am purchasing the last of my panel instruments. Due to space
>considerations, I have narrowed my transceiver and transponder choices to
>the Microair 760 and T2000 or the Becker 4201/4401. Microair sells a
>"Works Combo Kit" which includes the radio, transponder, wiring harness
>and a PM501 intercom for $3151.00 through ACS. The Becker is a bit more
>expensive. Has anyone used either of these in a CH701?
>
>I am also wondering which RAC grips to install on my Y stick. If I spring
>for the G5 or G7, can my radio be controlled via the switches in these
>grips? The top mounted push-to-talk button on the G1 seems like the best
>location to avoid inadvertent pushes, but being able to switch channels
>via the stick would make the trigger push-to-talk G5 or G7 a worthwhile
>consideration.
>
>Thanks to all.
>
>CH701, 80% completed
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Solid Riveting Problem - Solved |
Must be that excellent rivet gun you have. Or is it still working?
----- Original Message -----
From: Debo Cox
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, October 25, 2006 4:12 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Solid Riveting Problem - Solved
Thanks to everyone who asked good questions and answered my question
about spar cap buckling during riveting. Turns out that it was just my
inexperience showing - not properly clamping the workpiece. Once I
firmly clamped everything down with a little special tool I made, it
solved the problem. Once again the list comes through - thanks!
Debo Cox
Nags Head, NC
XL/Corvair
Do not archive
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Get your email and more, right on the new Yahoo.com
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: picture of the day + question |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Carlos Sa <carlosfsa@yahoo.com>
Hi, Jim
My intent is to drill skin and ribs the same operation - that's why I have all
those rivet stems
taped to the flanges. That way I will know exactly how far I am from the edges
when I drill.
My flanges are about 22mm wide, so even if there is some error reading their position,
I'll be
pretty safe. BTW, my tests show that a cylindrical magnet (about 12 mm in diameter)
indicates the
location of the rivet stem with .5 mm accuracy - actually "operator reading error".
Once again, thanks for the comments
Carlos Sa
CH601-HD, plans
Montreal, Canada
--- Jim Hoak <planejim@bellsouth.net> a crit :
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jim Hoak" <planejim@bellsouth.net>
>
> Carlos,
>
> I built a 601HD 10 years ago. Your work looks great. I used the same method
> to hold the nose ribs when I built my Midget Mustang I ( many years ago ),
> the one and onle All Metal PDQ ( nearly 30 years ago ) and the HD. However,
> I suggest you use the construction sequence of installing the top and bottom
> aft skins first ( being very careful to keep the whole thing square and
> level as you drill and rivet ) before installing the nose ( leading edge
> skin ). You will probably use straps to pull the L/E skin into place. Having
> the rest of the wing square and level ( and secured that way ) is important
> when drilling the L/E skin in place. I built a twisted left wing the first
> time around - be careful.
>
> Also be aware that the nose ribs, even though you have them secured with the
> wooden blocks and threaded rod, can still flex some. I would still put the
> thin black line down the center of the flange of all the ribs, including the
> nose ribs, before starting the drilling operation. When the 3/32" ( #40
> bit ) hole is drilled through the skin, you will feel better to see that
> black line just under the hole.
>
> That is a unique trick using the rivet stems taped to the edges of the
> flanges. I would never have thought of that and I've been doing this stuff
> for about 50 years.
>
> Good luck with your building.
>
> Jim Hoak 601HD Rotax 912UL 532 hours.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Carlos Sa" <carlosfsa@yahoo.com>
> To: <zenith-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 9:45 PM
> Subject: [Norton AntiSpam] Zenith-List: picture of the day + question
>
>
> > Hello, listers
> >
...
> > Question: the construction manual says you should (a) rivet all the ribs
> > to the spar; (b) rivet
> > the rear spar to the ribs (b) drill and rivet the rear (top and bottom)
> > skins, and only then (e)
> > drill and rivet the nose skin.
> > I'm thinking that doing the nose skin first of all would make the fitting
> > of the nose skin much
> > easier. But, I am afraid of painting myself into a corner - although I
> > haven't seen a corner or
> > any paint...
> >
> > Does anybody see any "gotchas"?
__________________________________________________
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Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Transceiver / Transponder and RAC grips |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: <dredmoody@cox.net>
I like the four trim buttons on top of the -5 and -7 models and the ptt on the
front has never been a problem for me. I have much more often had to tell a back-seater
via sign language to get his finger off the top mounted ptt button
on the rear stick.
I too would like to know if the Micro Air radio can be switched from the momentary
switched on the RAC grip.
Ed Moody II
---- Jeffrey A Beachy <beachyjeff@juno.com> wrote:
> I am purchasing the last of my panel instruments. Due to space
> considerations, I have narrowed my transceiver and transponder choices to
> the Microair 760 and T2000 or the Becker 4201/4401. Microair sells a
> "Works Combo Kit" which includes the radio, transponder, wiring harness
> and a PM501 intercom for $3151.00 through ACS. The Becker is a bit more
> expensive. Has anyone used either of these in a CH701?
>
> I am also wondering which RAC grips to install on my Y stick. If I spring
> for the G5 or G7, can my radio be controlled via the switches in these
> grips? The top mounted push-to-talk button on the G1 seems like the best
> location to avoid inadvertent pushes, but being able to switch channels
> via the stick would make the trigger push-to-talk G5 or G7 a worthwhile
> consideration.
>
> Thanks to all.
>
> CH701, 80% completed
Message 19
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| Subject: | 601 seat belt attachment history. |
Seat belt attachment history
I have a question about the 601HD series seat belt attachment. This has been
discussed some in the achieves and I am hoping to get the info on the real story/history.
Here is why I need to know. We are getting ready to install the
seat pan for the final time. Rivets not celcos, real progress. I bought the finals
version of the HDS plans and few months back and when looking for changes
and updates we found the thickness of the out board attachment flange has been
thickened ( from 0.040 to 0.063) and the hole diameter changed. I am wondering
why the change and do I really have to drill the 0.04 out and make a new
one? In keeping with the philosophy of John and Martha King, I believe my superior
planning will help me avoid using my superior skills and thus the seat
belt issue is really nothing to worry about. J But, just in case.
Is the stiffening really is necessary? Is there an easier retrofit idea, rather
than exchanging the flange? Interestingly the final plans leave the inboard
attachment as 0.040. I am sure there is some interesting history here. What
gives? Phill
phartig@mindspring.com
---------------------------------
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Message 20
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| Subject: | Culver Props/ Valley Eng 701 VW engine firewall forward |
package
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Monty Graves <mgraves@usmo.com>
For those considering an alternative engine to the Rotax 912. The Smiths
of Valley Eng/ Culver Prop. have come up with a complete firewall forward
package VW engine redrive, Culver Prop, engine mount, Nose bowl package
for the Zenith CH701
Or you can buy the engine mount or any of the things listed separately.
http://www.culverprops.com/zenith-701.htm
All the info is on their most recent web page.
But they don't do email very well,,,,,,, For pricing and detailed info, it
is best just to call.
Larry has shipped out several engine mounts already....... I want to
caution folks on this....... Larry's mounts fit the 701 Rotax mount points
EXACTLY as shown in the back of the CH701 plans..... the only exception is
the nose gear strut mount has to be trimmed slightly a few more degrees
than shown in the plans........This is the thick alum piece that mounts to
the top of the firewall and and holds the nose gear strut.... One person
didn't realize the this piece needed to be beveled at all he thought it was
supposed to be square at both ends............. Another builder put his
lower alum angle longerons on backwards. meaning the angles were pointed
the wrong way, from what is shown in the plans......... when they are
installed incorrectly,,,,,,,,,, even a rotax mount will not fit...........
the bottom engine mount attach points fit inside of these alum angles on
each side..... they have to be orientated in the correct manner as shown on
the plans........... Another potential problem......... DON'T drill the
engine mount holes in your firewall till you get your engine
mount.......... One guy did and missed the holes by 1/2 inch from what the
plans call for.........UPPS,,,,,,,, nothing fits now........ one off custom
mount is the only option no matter what engine he goes with.......
One of the 2276cc VW engine redrive Culver prop packages is flying in
Idaho, a Dr Arbo, I am not sure he is on any mailing list, but with
several hrs of test flying he has told the Smiths he loves the Engine
combo........
Over the next year several more are going to be flying with this
combo..... and I will report back when more info comes forward....
Another Valley Eng, 1915cc VW engine and redrive combo is flying weekly at
Eldon MO......... B.J Swallers' pictures of that setup are on the Zenith
builders gallery
B.J. and the local pilot (owns the hangar the plane is stored in) loves it
too.......
http://www.zenithair.com/stolch701/7-photo88.html
Monty Graves
Message 21
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Ernie and Michael
I used the 2700-2 studs, 212-12ND receptacles and 2600-LW retainer washers.
I dimpled the rivet holes. The underside of the dimples fit nicely into the
countersinks in the receptacles and gives a good, tight fit against the bottom
of the mounting strip. I used 6 on each door, 4 across the back and one
midway on each side. These can be installed without any special tools but if you
use the Camloc drill jig it is really easy. The drill jig also gives a near
perfect alignment of the holes. I thought it was worth the 28 bucks but it
certainly can be done without the jig. Oh, the part number for the jig is
01-00155.
I originally used the Dzus fasteners but the fit and finish was so bad I
replaced the strips around the top of the lockers and the locker door skin on
the first one I built. I kept the hanger locked and did not allow anyone inside
until after I replaced them. Didn't think I could handle the ridicule if any
of the other builders saw that mess.
Carroll Jernigan
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Solid Riveting Problem |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Ron Lendon" <rlendon@comcast.net>
Hi Debo,
Are you sure that you put the head of the rivet on the thinner material side to
rivet ?
Just like Chris said. Look at the NOTE on 6-W-3.
--------
Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
Corvair Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=70166#70166
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Solid Riveting Problem - Solved |
Hey Geoff,
I just sent you an email off-list. Thanks for your help. I think you're exactly
right about this. You da' man
Debo
Geoff Heap <stol10@comcast.net> wrote:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Geoff Heap"
Debo Don't want to keep beating you up but I just looked at your pic again and
noticed. that cleco on the right is bending away very clearly showing that the
holes are out of alignment.....Geoff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=70116#70116
---------------------------------
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| Subject: | picture of the day + question |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Craig Payne" <craig@craigandjean.com>
"pictures of the day" was just a phrase. Most of these have just been
attachments to e-mails. If you receive digests you don't get the
attachments. If you browse the lists on the Matronics web site you can see
the attachments.
-- Craig
Message 25
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| Subject: | Sensenich Composite Prop for sale |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Tim Juhl" <juhl@avci.net>
I have a new, in the box, never used Sensenich ground adjustable Composite (with
all hardware) Prop for a Jabiru 3300 for sale. This one has gloss black blade
fronts with white tips. Back is matte black. Has nickel leading edge.
I'm asking $1400 (plus about $25 shipping.) If you buy it from Jabiru it'll cost
$1525 plus shipping.
If interested contact me off line at juhl@avci.net
DO NOT ARCHIVE
--------
DO NOT ARCHIVE
______________
CFII
Champ L16A flying
Zodiac XL - Working on wings
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=70191#70191
Message 26
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| Subject: | Aeroflash power supply |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "george may" <gfmjr_20@hotmail.com>
Does anyone have an Aeroflash power supply they are not using or don't need?
Please contact me off list
Thanks
George May
601XL 912s
do not archive
_________________________________________________________________
Use your PC to make calls at very low rates
https://voiceoam.pcs.v2s.live.com/partnerredirect.aspx
Message 27
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| Subject: | Aeroflash power supply |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "george may" <gfmjr_20@hotmail.com>
Does anyone have an Aeroflash power supply they are not using or don't need?
Please contact me off list
Thanks
George May
601XL 912s
do not archive
_________________________________________________________________
All-in-one security and maintenance for your PC. Get a free 90-day trial!
http://clk.atdmt.com/MSN/go/msnnkwlo0050000002msn/direct/01/?href=http://www.windowsonecare.com/?sc_cid=msn_hotmail
Message 28
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| Subject: | New e-mail list: Mgl Avionics Stratomaster Users Group |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Craig Payne" <craig@craigandjean.com>
I've just received my new "Enigma" EFIS/EMS and am interested in exchanging
information with other owners of products from MGL Avionics "Stratomaster"
line. So I've started a group on Yahoo. The information on the list is
below.
This is a user-to-user list and I have NO official affiliation with MGL. You
can read about their product line here:
www.mglavionics.co.za
See you on the list!
-- Craig Payne
Here're the details on stratomaster_users_group:
Group home page: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/stratomaster_users_group
Group email address: stratomaster_users_group@yahoogroups.com
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: picture of the day + question |
Carlos-
Fully rivet the bottom skin, then cleco the top skin, finally cleco the
nose skin. Make absolutely sure you have the correct shims and NAIL THE SOB
DOWN TO THE WORKBENCH!!! Movement is death! Picture attached. Notice my
approach to squaring the nose ribs and the L blocks squaring the spar to the
bench and holding things in place. 'Nuf said.
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: "Carlos Sa" <carlosfsa@yahoo.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 9:45 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: picture of the day + question
> Hello, listers
>
> Here's a picture of the nose ribs (right outboard panel, CH601-HD) clecoed
> to the spar.
> Probably one of the last -HDs being built these days...
> The threaded rod with the wood blocks keeps the ribs parallel to each
> other. I only need to make
> the first one perpendicular to the spar, and all the other will be in
> position.
> The white stripes are pieces of masking tape that are holding rivet stems
> (steel), one on each
> side of the flange (over kill, one would be more than enough). This way
> I'll be able to locate
> the flange edges with a magnet when the ribs are covered with the skin.
> Already tested, and works
> nicely.
>
> Question: the construction manual says you should (a) rivet all the ribs
> to the spar; (b) rivet
> the rear spar to the ribs (b) drill and rivet the rear (top and bottom)
> skins, and only then (e)
> drill and rivet the nose skin.
> I'm thinking that doing the nose skin first of all would make the fitting
> of the nose skin much
> easier. But, I am afraid of painting myself into a corner - although I
> haven't seen a corner or
> any paint...
>
> Does anybody see any "gotchas"?
>
> Thanks in advance for your insight
>
> Carlos Sa
> CH601-HD, plans
> Montreal, Canada
> do not archive (until a good answer is found :o) )
>
> __________________________________________________
> En finir avec le spam? Yahoo! Courriel vous offre la meilleure protection
> possible contre les messages non nollicits
> http://mail.yahoo.ca Yahoo! Courriel
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: 601 seat belt attachment history. |
I saw the PIC of the seat belt attach that failed after a roll over... That
said it was the point in front of where the bolt goes thru that failed. It was
more a ripping due to the forward pull. The bracket itself did not detach.
Keep in mind that the builder could have drilled the holes closer to the edge
than was called for in the plans making the area in front of the bolt too
thin. I have already installed the original brackets and was simply going to
either make a doubler for the bracket or drill the hole further back thus
giving me more material in front of the hole.
do not archive
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