Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:54 AM - Re: Historic Zenair Zipper for sale (Michel Therrien)
2. 04:45 AM - Re: Electric flap actuator (roy vickski)
3. 05:06 AM - Re: Historic Zenair Zipper for sale (Jay Herron)
4. 05:39 AM - Re: Re :701 Stut fairings (n801bh@netzero.com)
5. 05:48 AM - Re: 701 vs ??? (n801bh@netzero.com)
6. 05:50 AM - Re: Re: Stut fairings (Tommy Walker)
7. 06:09 AM - Re: Free 2D drafting software (Chris Lewis)
8. 06:59 AM - Re: Historic Zenair Zipper for sale (MacDonald Doug)
9. 07:47 AM - Re: Re: 601 copies or vice versa? (Rosalie DeMeo)
10. 12:04 PM - Re: Re: Electric flap actuator (LHusky@aol.com)
11. 12:04 PM - Re: Electric flap actuator ()
12. 01:31 PM - Nose Rib Forming Block (Doug Moellering)
13. 01:33 PM - Electric flap actuator / landing roll (Big Gee)
14. 01:35 PM - Re: Electric flap actuator (Craig Payne)
15. 02:09 PM - Re: Nose Rib Forming Block (George Swinford)
16. 02:15 PM - Re: Nose Rib Forming Block (Gary Boothe)
17. 02:19 PM - Nose Rib Forming Block (David Wright)
18. 02:32 PM - Re: Nose Rib Forming Block (Carlos Sa)
19. 03:16 PM - Re: Nose Rib Forming Block (dfmoeller)
20. 03:44 PM - Re: Nose Rib Forming Block (N5SL)
21. 05:03 PM - Re: Nose Rib Forming Block (LarryMcFarland)
22. 08:09 PM - Re: Nose Rib Forming Block (Ron Lendon)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Historic Zenair Zipper for sale |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Michel Therrien <mtherr@yahoo.com>
The two engines one is for sure a single seater...
look at these pictures I took at Osh 2000:
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601/images/Dcp00355.jpg
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601/images/Dcp00354.jpg
It is a pretty "crude" design.. ;)
It is on this web page:
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601/ev_osh2000a.htm
Michel
--- Peter Chapman <pchapman@ionsys.com> wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Peter Chapman
> <pchapman@ionsys.com>
>
> At 22:56 02-11-06, you wrote:
>
> >--> Zenith-List message posted by: MacDonald Doug
> <dougsnash@yahoo.com>
> >
> >Isn't the Zipper supposed to have two engines?
>
> I've read there were both one and two engined
> versions. Not sure if
> they corresponded to 1 and 2 seat models or not.
> ... I sure hoped the
> planes were less
> crude than the marketing. Not sure if they actually
> were any less
> crude (although they were clever in some ways), but
> at least they
> were easily buildable and flyable.
----------------------------
Michel Therrien CH601-HD, C-GZGQ
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/mthobby
http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
Low, Low, Low Rates! Check out Yahoo! Messenger's cheap PC-to-Phone call rates
(http://voice.yahoo.com)
_-
_-
_-
_-
_-
_-
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Electric flap actuator |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: roy vickski <rvickski@yahoo.com>
The controller could be replaced by an automotive
power window switch, a M Benz rear door switch would
do nicely, DC rated, relatively compact, straight
forward mounting. Of course the throw and center
position would need to be mechanically set ala pre
computor RC aircraft radio/servo.
Roy, 701 Michigan USA
_-
_-
_-
_-
_-
_-
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Historic Zenair Zipper for sale |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jay Herron" <jay@agstore.net>
I believe they built about 100 Zenair Zippers. Most were single engine models
powered by a JPX 2 cycle engine but there were a few twin engine designs built.
I owned a single engine Zipper for a year, but never flew it. I was not able
to get parts for the JPX engine and sold the project to buy a Quicksilver.
I have attached a picure of my Zipper with my wife and oldest son. Also attached
is a picture of a twin that I found on the internet.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=72241#72241
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/zipper_154.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/zipper2_127.jpg
_-
_-
_-
_-
_-
_-
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Re :701 Stut fairings |
Yeah yeah yeah, I have a tow bar , going uphill into the hangar takes m
ore force then I want to put on the towbar. Since the fairings encase th
e struts I am guessing they are not well supported for pushing against.
And of course I don't want ANYONE pushing that hard on my prop.!!!!!!!!!
!!!
do not archive for sure...
Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
-- NYTerminat@aol.com wrote:
Tow bar In a message dated 11/3/2006 9:39:48 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
n801bh@netzero.com writes:I don't have some on my 801. I do believe ZAC
sells them as an option. I thought about installing some but I usually
have someone helping me push the toy back into the hangar and I am not s
ure they could stand any kind of abuse. Comments ???
do not archive
========================
========================
========================
========================
======================
<html><P>Yeah yeah yeah, I have a tow bar , going uphill into the
hangar takes more force then I want to put on the towbar. Since the fair
ings encase the struts I am guessing they are not well supported for pus
hing against. And of course I don't want ANYONE pushing that hard on my
prop.!!!!!!!!!!!!</P>
<P>do not archive for sure...<BR><BR><BR>Ben Haas<BR>N801BH<BR>www.
haaspowerair.com<BR><BR>-- NYTerminat@aol.com wrote:<BR></P><F
ONT id=role_document face=Arial color=#000000 size=2>
<DIV>
<DIV>Tow bar</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>In a message dated 11/3/2006 9:39:48 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, n8
01bh@netzero.com writes:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: b
lue 2px solid"><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=Aria
l color=#000000 size=2>
<P>I don't have some on my 801. I do believe ZAC sells them as an option
. I thought about installing some but I usually have someone helping me
push the toy back into the hangar and I am not sure they could stand any
kind of abuse. Comments ???</P>
<P>do not archive<BR></P></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV></FONT><PRE><B><FONT face="courier new,courier" color
=#000000 size=2>
========================
===========
========================
===========
">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List</A>
========================
===========
</B></FONT></PRE>
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
_-
_-
_-
_-
_-
_-
</b></font></pre></body></html>
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
The 801` appears to suffer from the same fate as all the 601's. ZAC clai
ms 10-15 mph higher cruise speeds then anybody seems to be able to deriv
e. I can get 108 maybe in level flight and full throttle. That is using
about 330 sea level HP. Up here at 7000+msl that relates to somewhere in
the 270 range. Keep in mind the motor is VERY detuned to prevent the p
lane from making the lead story on the evening news. <G> The 801, and I
am guessing the 701 too is VERY areodynamicly dirty so drag compounds at
the higher speeds. For instance, on takeoff I am burning 16+ GPH, at cr
uise at 50% power I can run 88 mph@ 5.9-6.3 GPH, Speed up just 8 mph to
95 and the thing burns 11+. I will trade that off by just leaving a few
minutes earlier and running at the slower speed. With that all said I st
ill LOVE my 801..
do not archive
Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
-- NYTerminat@aol.com wrote:
Ben, What kind of speed do you get?? How many HP do you have strapped in
there? Bob Spudis In a message dated 11/3/2006 9:41:25 P.M. Eastern St
andard Time, n801bh@netzero.com writes:I tried adding reflex [ that is r
aising the flaps past their normal attitude]. The plane flies nose up an
d you actually lose some speed. At least my 801 does..
Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
========================
========================
========================
========================
======================
<html><P>The 801` appears to suffer from the same fate as all the 601's.
ZAC claims 10-15 mph higher cruise speeds then anybody seems to be able
to derive. I can get 108 maybe in level flight and full throttle. That
is using about 330 sea level HP. Up here at 7000+msl that relates t
o somewhere in the 270 range. Keep in mind the motor is VERY detun
ed to prevent the plane from making the lead story on the evening news.
<G> The 801, and I am guessing the 701 too is VERY areodynamicly d
irty so drag compounds at the higher speeds. For instance, on takeoff I
am burning 16+ GPH, at cruise at 50% power I can run 88 mph@ 5.9-6.3 GPH
, Speed up just 8 mph to 95 and the thing burns 11+. I will trade t
hat off by just leaving a few minutes earlier and running at the slower
speed. With that all said I still LOVE my 801..</P>
<P>do not archive<BR><BR><BR>Ben Haas<BR>N801BH<BR>www.haaspowerair
.com<BR><BR>-- NYTerminat@aol.com wrote:<BR></P><FONT id=rol
e_document face=Arial color=#000000 size=2>
<DIV>
<DIV>Ben, </DIV>
<DIV>What kind of speed do you get??</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>How many HP do you have strapped in there?</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Bob Spudis</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>In a message dated 11/3/2006 9:41:25 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, n8
01bh@netzero.com writes:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: b
lue 2px solid"><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=Aria
l color=#000000 size=2>I tried adding reflex [ that is raising the f
laps past their normal attitude]. The plane flies nose up and you actual
ly lose some speed. At least my 801 does..<BR><BR><BR>Ben Haas<BR>N
801BH<BR>www.haaspowerair.com<BR><BR></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV></FONT><PRE><B><FONT face="courier new,courier" color
=#000000 size=2>
========================
===========
========================
===========
">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List</A>
========================
===========
</B></FONT></PRE>
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
_-
_-
_-
_-
_-
_-
</b></font></pre></body></html>
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Stut fairings |
Ditto....
TommyWalker In Alabama
Thank you kindly Bob.
Jean-Paul
do not archive
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Free 2D drafting software |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Chris Lewis" <christopherlewis@earthlink.net>
I've downloaded this software (it's huge) and it works quite well. I did get a
follow up sales call and once I told him I was just building an airplane and not
looking to move up to 3D, he wished me luck and thanked me for trying their
product.
There's a great tutorial at the beginning that takes you through drawing a right
angled part with matched holes, so don't be afraid if you have little CAD background.
Chris in Seattle
--------
701 Scratch Builder
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=72247#72247
_-
_-
_-
_-
_-
_-
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Historic Zenair Zipper for sale |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: MacDonald Doug <dougsnash@yahoo.com>
Admittedly, it might be a little crude by today's
standards but when compaired to similar vintage
ultralights it looks like a well though out machine.
At first I thought it kinda looked like a Lazair.
Think Ford Model T
Doug MacDonald
NW Ontario, Canada
CH-701 Scratch Builder
Working on Cabin
>The two engines one is for sure a single seater...
>look at these pictures I took at Osh 2000:
>http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601/images/Dcp00355.jpg
>http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601/images/Dcp00354.jpg
>It is a pretty "crude" design.. ;)
>It is on this web page:
>http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601/ev_osh2000a.htm
>Michel
(http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com)
_-
_-
_-
_-
_-
_-
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: 601 copies or vice versa? |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Rosalie DeMeo <rosestar@sonic.net>
Why mess with a copy when you can buy the real deal? Safety and
experience are my primary concern. I would rather by from Chris Heintz'
company than any copycat. If the copycat would shortcut design and
research steps, what else has he shortcutted?
Brad
_-
_-
_-
_-
_-
_-
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Electric flap actuator |
I have a current price list sent to my by Shirley at ZAC. It shows $584.84
for part number D145-0036-3. Is there something different now?
Larry Husky
Lakeview, OR
601XL / Corvair
Building Fuse
Do Not Archive
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Electric flap actuator |
I'm not quite to the installation phase yet, but I bought one of those
linear actuators, and was wondering: If you leave it alone, and use t
he flap arm as designed, would the flaps just move further down with t
he 4-inch stroke, or would they hit something? Since I haven't mounted
the wings yet, I don't know the answer. It seems to me that with a 4-
inch stroke you just wind up with more flap than you'd need, as in 45
or 50 degrees travel, instead of 40 degrees. Could make for an impress
ively short landing roll????????=0A=0APaul Rodriguez=0A601XL/
Corvair=0A ----- Original Message ----- =0A From: N5SL<mailto:
nfivesl@yahoo.com> =0A To: zenith-list@matronics.com<mailto:zenith
-list@matronics.com> =0A Sent: Friday, November 03, 2006 9:31 AM
=0A Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Electric flap actuator=0A=0A
=0A Jean-Paul:=0A=0A If you look into this completely I thi
nk you will come to the same conclusion I did. The unit has internal
limit switches. It stops when reaching the end of travel in both dire
ctions. This is perfect since the limit switches are out of site and
never need adjusting. Adding limit switches just adds complexity and
another failure mode. =0A=0A All you have to do is design the l
inkage so that when the actuator extends fully, you have a fully exten
ded flap. Likewise when the actuator travels the other way and reache
s the limit, the flap is fully retracted. This was very easy to do an
d the result is a light, maintenance-free unit. I'm not sure why ZAC
uses the heavy, complex actuator but I spoke to Nick about this some t
ime ago and he said my system was fine. He indicated that ZAC gets al
l of their stuff from aircraft suppliers such as Aircraft Spruce and t
he actuator I'm using is not in the ACS catalog. =0A=0A I'm no
t knocking the ZAC system - it works fine, but if you are plans-buildi
ng, there are other ways to do it.=0A=0A Scott Laughlin=0A
www.cooknwithgas.com<http://www.cooknwithgas.com/>=0A working on B
RS final installation details=0A=0A=0A=0A ----- Original
Message ----=0A From: Jean-Paul Roy <jean-paul.roy4@tlb.sympatico.
ca>=0A=0A=0A I'm just thinking out loud here. Would two smal
l limit swithes could control the travel lenght?=0A=0A Jean-Pau
l=0A=0A=0A ----- Original Message ----- =0A From: N5
SL<mailto:nfivesl@yahoo.com> =0A=0A=0A Hi Fritz:=0A
=0A I'd go with the model number and source Craig Payne posted. (I
tem# 5-1577-2 has 2 inches of travel while 5-1577-4 has 4. The compani
on controller can memorize intermediate stops: 5-1577-C. Each of these
are well under $100. www.surpluscenter.com<http://www.surpluscenter.c
om/>)=0A=0A He has a great talent for finding stuff! Thanks
Craig - I'll save the information if I need another one later. =0A
=======================
=======================
=======================
=======================
=======================
=======================
===========0A=0A
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Nose Rib Forming Block |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Doug Moellering" <dfmoeller@austin.rr.com>
A question for you scratchbuilders out there. How really necessary are the
1/8 aluminum face plates on the forming blocks on the 601XL' nose ribs. I
need to form some nose ribs and routing 1/8" think aluminum is scaring the
crap out of me. I'm unable to hold the form steady enough to push through
the router table.
How about some suggestions from the scratchbuilders who have passed this
point successfully.
Doug
_-
_-
_-
_-
_-
_-
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Electric flap actuator / landing roll |
Paul---- One thing I read some place (don't ask me where), was to make sure
you DO NOT have more flap extension (degrees) than what is still possibl
e to make a go-around if for some reason you couldn't get the flaps to retr
act and must abort a landing.=0Ai.e. with the flaps at 90 degrees, at full
power it might be impossible to gain altitude (go-around). ( I know this
is an exaggerated example)--------- That is why : I WILL follow the advis
e of having the linkage designed so at full actuator extention (travel ) I
will have no more that the maximum flap dgrees specified by Chris H.---- (3
0 degrees)=0A=0AThere has been more than one IFE (in-flight emergency) due
to a "run-a-way" actuator.=0A=0AFritz------ 601XL--90/90--Corvair =0A=0ADo
not archive=0A=0A=0A=0A----- Original Message ----=0AFrom: "paulrod36@msn.c
om" <paulrod36@msn.com>=0ATo: zenith-list@matronics.com=0ASent: Saturday, N
ovember 4, 2006 3:03:59 PM=0ASubject: Re: Zenith-List: Electric flap actuat
or=0A=0A=0AI'm not quite to the installation phase yet, but I bought one of
those linear actuators, and was wondering: If you leave it alone, and use
the flap arm as designed, would the flaps just move further down with the 4
-inch stroke, or would they hit something? Since I haven't mounted the wing
s yet, I don't know the answer. It seems to me that with a 4-inch stroke yo
u just wind up with more flap than you'd need, as in 45 or 50 degrees trave
l, instead of 40 degrees. Could make for an impressively short landing roll
????????=0A =0APaul Rodriguez=0A601XL/Corvair=0A----- Original Message ----
- =0AFrom: N5SL =0ATo: zenith-list@matronics.com =0ASent: Friday, November
03, 2006 9:31 AM=0ASubject: Re: Zenith-List: Electric flap actuator=0A=0A
=0AJean-Paul:=0A=0AIf you look into this completely I think you will come t
o the same conclusion I did. The unit has internal limit switches. It sto
ps when reaching the end of travel in both directions. This is perfect sin
ce the limit switches are out of site and never need adjusting. Adding lim
it switches just adds complexity and another failure mode. =0A=0AAll you ha
ve to do is design the linkage so that when the actuator extends fully, you
have a fully extended flap. Likewise when the actuator travels the other
way and reaches the limit, the flap is fully retracted. This was very easy
to do and the result is a light, maintenance-free unit. I'm not sure why
ZAC uses the heavy, complex actuator but I spoke to Nick about this some ti
me ago and he said my system was fine. He indicated that ZAC gets all of t
heir stuff from aircraft suppliers such as Aircraft Spruce and the actuator
I'm using is not in the ACS catalog. =0A=0AI'm not knocking the ZAC syste
m - it works fine, but if you are plans-building, there are other ways to d
o it.=0A=0AScott Laughlin=0Awww.cooknwithgas.com=0Aworking on BRS final ins
tallation details=0A=0A=0A=0A----- Original Message ----=0AFrom: Jean-Paul
Roy <jean-paul.roy4@tlb.sympatico.ca>=0A=0A=0AI'm just thinking out loud he
re. Would two small limit swithes could control the travel lenght?=0A =0AJe
an-Paul=0A=0A=0A----- Original Message ----- =0AFrom: N5SL =0A=0A=0AHi Frit
z:=0A=0AI'd go with the model number and source Craig Payne posted. (Item#
5-1577-2 has 2 inches of travel while 5-1577-4 has 4. The companion contro
ller can memorize intermediate stops: 5-1577-C. Each of these are well unde
r $100. www.surpluscentercom)=0A=0AHe has a great talent for finding stuff!
Thanks Craig - I'll save the information if I need another one later.
=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A ==================
=le=http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List href="http://wwwma
tronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigat==
======================== _
=======================0A=0A
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Electric flap actuator |
With the linkage as specified in the plans 4 inches is *way* too much
travel. The factory set-up needs under 2 inches of travel. Ignoring the
slots in the sides of the fuselage the movement is limited by the
cross-member in front of the axle that spans the fuselage. The forward
motion is limited by the arm bolted to the axle hitting the back of the
member. The rearward motion is stopped when the bottom of the tube from the
actuator hits the top of the member. Of course if you lengthen the arm from
the axle you can change all this geometry.
-- Craig
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Nose Rib Forming Block |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "George Swinford" <grs-pms@comcast.net>
Doug:
I have had good luck using tempered Masonite. It's easy to cut with a
bandsaw or router and it's tough enough to last thru your project, and
probably beyond. You can radius it with a file and skip the router
altogether.
George
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Moellering" <dfmoeller@austin.rr.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 04, 2006 1:28 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Nose Rib Forming Block
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Doug Moellering"
<dfmoeller@austin.rr.com>
>
> A question for you scratchbuilders out there. How really necessary are
the
> 1/8 aluminum face plates on the forming blocks on the 601XL' nose ribs. I
> need to form some nose ribs and routing 1/8" think aluminum is scaring
the
> crap out of me. I'm unable to hold the form steady enough to push through
> the router table.
>
> How about some suggestions from the scratchbuilders who have passed this
> point successfully.
>
> Doug
>
>
> --
>
>
_-
_-
_-
_-
_-
_-
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Nose Rib Forming Block |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Gary Boothe" <gboothe@calply.com>
Doug,
I know it's heresy for those of us with power tools, but I formed the radius
with a file. It should only take about 30 minutes to file and smooth.
Thinking back, though, I could have fastened the 1/8" aluminum to the
forming blocks and run the router around the edge. If you haven't yet tried
using a router on aluminum, it's quite easy - hardly any different than
wood.
Gary Boothe
Cool, CA
601 HDSTD, WW Conversion 90% done,
Tail done, wings done, working on c-section
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doug Moellering
Sent: Saturday, November 04, 2006 1:28 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Nose Rib Forming Block
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Doug Moellering"
<dfmoeller@austin.rr.com>
A question for you scratchbuilders out there. How really necessary are the
1/8 aluminum face plates on the forming blocks on the 601XL' nose ribs. I
need to form some nose ribs and routing 1/8" think aluminum is scaring the
crap out of me. I'm unable to hold the form steady enough to push through
the router table.
How about some suggestions from the scratchbuilders who have passed this
point successfully.
Doug
_-
_-
_-
_-
_-
_-
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Nose Rib Forming Block |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: David Wright <davidhwright@mac.com>
Doug
I have just finished my nose ribs and main ribs using ordinary plywood - bought
from the local B&Q DIY store.
I am going with the extended fuel tanks so I made 7 nose ribs per wing, the plywood
held up very well and I believe I could make quite a few more.
I did not treat the plywood in any way and just ran the 1/8" radius on the edge
of the plywood.
The results were fine.
David Wright
601XL - Scratch build - wings
Washington UK
On Saturday, November 04, 2006, at 01:43PM, "Doug Moellering" <dfmoeller@austin.rr.com>
wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Doug Moellering" <dfmoeller@austin.rr.com>
>
>A question for you scratchbuilders out there. How really necessary are the
>1/8 aluminum face plates on the forming blocks on the 601XL' nose ribs. I
>need to form some nose ribs and routing 1/8" think aluminum is scaring the
>crap out of me. I'm unable to hold the form steady enough to push through
>the router table.
>
>How about some suggestions from the scratchbuilders who have passed this
>point successfully.
>
>Doug
>
>
>_-s
>
>
_-
_-
_-
_-
_-
_-
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Nose Rib Forming Block |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Carlos Sa <carlosfsa@yahoo.com>
Hello, Doug
I made my forming blocks with MDF, and then applied two coats of Varathane. All
ribs were made with the same set of 4 blocks (nose and rear, left and right),
and they are still good.
Regarding routers: I have used a hand-held router for trimming thin and thick material,
no problems - except it requires attention and a steady pair of hands.
I have used a straight bit for this.
Carlos
CH601-HD, plans
Leading edge of right wing assembled, drilled a clecoed
Montreal, Canada
----- Original Message ----
From: Doug Moellering <dfmoeller@austin.rr.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 4, 2006 4:28:10 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Nose Rib Forming Block
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Doug Moellering" <dfmoeller@austin.rr.com>
A question for you scratchbuilders out there. How really necessary are the
1/8 aluminum face plates on the forming blocks on the 601XL' nose ribs. I
need to form some nose ribs and routing 1/8" think aluminum is scaring the
crap out of me. I'm unable to hold the form steady enough to push through
the router table.
How about some suggestions from the scratchbuilders who have passed this
point successfully.
Doug
_-
_-
_-
_-
_-
_-
Message 19
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Nose Rib Forming Block |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "dfmoeller" <dfmoeller@austin.rr.com>
Thanks all for the help. I'm going to get rid of that 1/8" aluminum layer and
just radius the forming blocks. I've made the blocks from 3/4" oak finish grade
plywood, 9 ply, so they should hold up, and if they don't, I'll just make another
set. 1/8" aluminum screwed to the blocks is unsafe to rout with a router
table. That router is throwing the block all over the place, I simply can't
hold it secure enough and with the sharp edges, I'm already bleeding like a
stuck pig. Maybe I could reverse strategy, clamp the part and hold the router,
but I really don't see the need. Easier just to make an extra set if the first
wears out.
I did like the idea of masonite though, or maybe a formica layer instead of aluminum.
This list is invaluable!
Doug
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=72306#72306
_-
_-
_-
_-
_-
_-
Message 20
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Nose Rib Forming Block |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: N5SL <nfivesl@yahoo.com>
Doug:
Just make them out of MDF and hand sand the corners. I did this with my first
few ribs. When you get to the wing ribs (lots to do), you can set up the router
for mass production. Don't worry about the aluminum. It's not necessary.
MDF will make many, many ribs before deteriorating.
Keep moving forward, you are on the right track.
Scott Laughlin
www.cooknwithgas.com
Working on BRS details
----- Original Message ----
From: Doug Moellering dfmoeller@austin.rr.com
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Doug Moellering" <dfmoeller@austin.rr.com>
A question for you scratchbuilders out there. How really necessary are the
1/8 aluminum face plates on the forming blocks on the 601XL' nose ribs. I
need to form some nose ribs and routing 1/8" think aluminum is scaring the
crap out of me. I'm unable to hold the form steady enough to push through
the router table.
How about some suggestions from the scratchbuilders who have passed this
point successfully.
Doug
_-
_-
_-
_-
_-
_-
Message 21
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Nose Rib Forming Block |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: LarryMcFarland <larry@macsmachine.com>
Doug,
My rib forming blocks were 5/8-inch plywood on both sides. Being
tapered wings, a 7-degree back-angle was on both sides. There were two
bolts, one each end, to align things and the aluminum sandwiched between
the former blocks was also gripped by the vise I used to hold things
while flanges were progressively bent. I didn't have any difficulty with
the wood forms and could probably build another 10 sets of ribs with
them. Never used aluminum back up plates and besides, they would have
been a lot of unnecessary work.
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/completion/full/viewwingrivets.jpg
Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
Doug Moellering wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Doug Moellering"
> <dfmoeller@austin.rr.com>
>
> A question for you scratchbuilders out there. How really necessary
> are the 1/8 aluminum face plates on the forming blocks on the 601XL'
> nose ribs. I need to form some nose ribs and routing 1/8" think
> aluminum is scaring the crap out of me. I'm unable to hold the form
> steady enough to push through the router table.
>
> How about some suggestions from the scratchbuilders who have passed
> this point successfully.
>
> Doug
_-
_-
_-
_-
_-
_-
Message 22
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Nose Rib Forming Block |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Ron Lendon" <rlendon@comcast.net>
I used 3/4" MDF and polysealed em. Worked great. I did make up a small aluminum
block to qualify the nose radius wrinkles. Picture attached:
I used a polished face hammer and just shrunk out the wrinkles by gently tapping
the material to conform with the backing block.
Process on mykitlog here:
--------
Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
Corvair Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=72337#72337
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/100_0718_171.jpg
_-
_-
_-
_-
_-
_-
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|