Today's Message Index:
----------------------
0. 12:13 AM - Wow, Cool! New List Feature... [Please Read] (Matt Dralle)
2. 06:53 AM - Zodiac 601/Continental 0-200 engine baffling pictures (nick@aoaircrafters.com)
3. 07:40 AM - Re: 601 copies or vice versa (Rosalie DeMeo)
4. 08:27 AM - Re: Re :701 Stut fairings (Bob & Karen Risch)
5. 08:28 AM - flap actuator ordered-- thanks (Big Gee)
6. 08:30 AM - 601 HDS nosewheel. (Brian Rides)
7. 12:59 PM - Bandsaw dimension question (Bruno)
8. 01:45 PM - Re: Bandsaw dimension question ()
9. 01:52 PM - Re: Bandsaw dimension question (N5SL)
10. 02:18 PM - Re: Bandsaw dimension question (Zodie Rocket)
11. 02:20 PM - Re: Bandsaw dimension question (Dave Ruddiman)
12. 02:44 PM - Re: Bandsaw dimension question (Terry Turnquist)
13. 02:45 PM - Router Use 101 (Dave Ruddiman)
14. 02:46 PM - Re: Bandsaw dimension question (Chris Lewis)
15. 02:48 PM - Re: Bandsaw dimension question (Paul Mulwitz)
16. 03:50 PM - Slat jigs? (John Marzulli)
17. 04:19 PM - Re: Hinge bracket size, 7-A-1-5 (Arthur Olechowski)
18. 04:26 PM - Re: Router Use 101 (Ron Butterfield)
19. 04:31 PM - Re: Bandsaw dimension question (Craig Payne)
20. 04:45 PM - Re: Hinge bracket size, 7-A-1-5 (JERICKSON03E@aol.com)
21. 04:54 PM - Re: Hinge bracket size, 7-A-1-5 (JERICKSON03E@aol.com)
22. 05:41 PM - Re: Bandsaw dimension question (Robin Bellach)
23. 05:49 PM - Re: Bandsaw dimension question (robert stone)
24. 07:44 PM - Re: Bandsaw dimension question (Craig Payne)
25. 07:49 PM - Bandsaw dimensions (George Swinford)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Wow, Cool! New List Feature... [Please Read] |
Dear Listers,
By popular suggestion, I've written a substantial new code module for the Matronics
Email Lists system. Here's how it works...
During each November, I send out quite a few PBS-like "Please make a Contribution
to support your List" emails. Wouldn't it be cool if, once a member made a
Contribution, they didn't have to receive my support pleas anymore for the rest
of that year?
Well, that's exactly what I've written! Following this posting, anyone that makes
a List Contribution in 2006 will no longer receive my Contribution Pleas for
the rest of the year!
The best part is this not only applies to the Realtime distribution, but also the
Digest distribution! For those that have made a Contribution, the Daily Digest
email-version will be invisibly stripped of my requests as well! (Note that
my requests will still be present in the online versions of the Digests, List
Browse, and on the Forum site.)
For those submitting their Contribution by personal Check, please be sure to include
your email address along with your Check as this is what is used to determine
eligibility.
So, in a nutshell, here's how it works:
Make a Contribution = No more "Please Make a Contribution" messages!
How sweet is that? If that's not a great reason to jump on the Matronics Email
List Contribution site and make your donation today, I don't know what is!
Don't forget that there are some totally awesome free gifts to be had along with
your List Contribution this year!! Don't wait a minute longer to support your
Lists!
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you for your Support!!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
Message 2
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| Subject: | Zodiac 601/Continental 0-200 engine baffling pictures |
Zenith server,
I am looking for pictures of the FRONT engine baffling on a zodiac 601
with a Continental 0-200 engine. Can you help? I can find plenty of
pictures of the side and rear engine baffling, but have yet to come
across pictures of the front engine baffling.
I bought a baffling kit from AMD, but cannot get them to support their
product with pictures, diagrams. I fit the rear and side baffles
easilly as this seemed self explanitory.
Thanks for any/all help, :)
~Nick
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: 601 copies or vice versa |
I agree. But I think the difference is a scientific and kowledgeable
approach to improving designs for a certain purpose. I use the term
copycats because some just aren't thorough or educated enough to improve
the design. For instance, street rodders can make a muscle car go
faster, but fail to work in safety elements in the process. With
airplane design, I think the risks are too great. When I chose the
Zodiac, I did my due diligence to find out the designer's background. I
am following the plans. Science will always seek to improve current
knowledge. It's the process that I trust, or distrust.
Brad
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Re :701 Stut fairings |
It is still possible to help push the plane this way, as the wing
strut is right behind the leading edge of the fairing - but you
definitely have to be a bit more careful than with an exposed strut.
Similarly, getting into and out of the seat by placing one hand on a
strut requires a bit more care in hand placement. Not really a
problem for either myself or the wife however.
Message 5
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| Subject: | flap actuator ordered-- thanks |
List--- I would like to thank, Scott L., Craig P. (and Doug Eatman) for the
ir inputs concerning an affordable replacemant flap actuator. Today I ord
ered from Surplus Center p/n 5-1577-4 linear actuator for $72.95 (4 inch tr
avel), p/n 5-1577-c controller for $49.95= $122.90 + shipping $11.81 t
otal cost $134.71. =0A=0AAt max load the travel time of the 2 and 4 inch
actuators are 1/2 inch/sec. The 4 inch actuator will take 8 seconds for
full travel whereas the the 2inch (travel) actuator would only take 4 sec
onds. Even if the the 2 inch actuator is workable, I feel the 4 inch trave
l (time wise ) is more comfortable to fly with, especially when going from
a setting of zero to 10 degrees etc. (my opinion only) =0A=0AI will ada
pt my "already welded as per plans" flap contol arm to accept the actuator
with 4 inches of travel.=0A=0AThanks again for your help.=0A=0AFritz 601
XL--90/90-- Corvair=0A=0A=0A----- Forwarded Message ----=0AFrom: Craig Payn
e <craig@craigandjean.com>=0ATo: zenith-list@matronics.com=0ASent: Friday,
November 3, 2006 2:54:36 PM=0ASubject: RE: Zenith-List: Electric flap actua
tor=0A=0A=0A>> He has a great talent for finding stuff! Thanks Craig - I'
ll save the information if I need another one later. =0A =0AI think Doug E
atman found Surplus Center and the linear actuators first. I just saved the
link.=0A =0A-- Craig=0A=0A
Message 6
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| Subject: | 601 HDS nosewheel. |
I am refurbishing a 601 HDS which was built from a 1993 kit. The nosewheel
needs replacing and I would like to match the original which was a Matco 8"
with a spoke type design.
If anyone has one of these please contact me with price etc.
Regards Brian
_________________________________________________________________
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Message 7
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| Subject: | Bandsaw dimension question |
Hi,
I'm a new CH-701 scratch builder and i'm starting to cut of cutting and
forming blocks...
What are the recomended dimensions for a bandsaw throat opening and for the
sawing material thick?
And the Sander? Only disc or disc/belt sander? Suggested disc dimension?
What about this two in one:
http://cgi.ebay.it/SEGA-A-NASTRO-CON-LEVIGATRICE-INCORPORATA-REXON_W0QQitemZ190048238559QQihZ009QQcategoryZ20785QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Thanks in advance.
Bruno Melegari
Italy
Setting up my workshop...
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Bandsaw dimension question |
I'm not a scratch builder, Bruno but I do woodwork and I have used my sears bandsaw
and a disc sander, bench grinder style lathe with scotchbrite wheels (one
coarse and one fine) extensively during kit building a 601XL. For the bandsaw,
get as much throat depth as you can afford. you will cut plastic fairleads,
wood forming blocks, aluminum sheet and extrusion pieces so get multiple blades
to allow fast rough cuts on wood and fine finish cuts on all materials. I drill
press will come in very handy as well.
Any combo belt / disc sander will serve you well, but don't skip the lathe with
scotchbrite wheels. That is a great way to produce factory looking parts that
aren't prone to cracking over time.
He who dies with the most tools wins.
Ed Moody II
Rayne, LA
601XL/Jabiru/cabin area
---- Bruno <sonexplus@libero.it> wrote:
>
> Hi,
> I'm a new CH-701 scratch builder and i'm starting to cut of cutting and
> forming blocks...
> What are the recomended dimensions for a bandsaw throat opening and for the
> sawing material thick?
>
> And the Sander? Only disc or disc/belt sander? Suggested disc dimension?
>
> What about this two in one:
> http://cgi.ebay.it/SEGA-A-NASTRO-CON-LEVIGATRICE-INCORPORATA-REXON_W0QQitemZ190048238559QQihZ009QQcategoryZ20785QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
>
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Bruno Melegari
> Italy
>
> Setting up my workshop...
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Bandsaw dimension question |
Hi Bruno:
Don't waste your money on that Ebay junk. You need a full-size band saw (12").
Mine is here and it worked great:
http://www.cooknwithgas.com/Bandsaw.jpg
The refrigerator in the background is not necessary.
Also, don't buy a small, cheap sander (ask me how I know). I have this one and
it is great:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=43468
I sand Chrome-moly or wood with this one and it works very well.
This was the first sander I bought and it is junk: http://www.cooknwithgas.com/Sander.jpg
Same thing on the band saw. The little saws don't work well.
So in both cases, 12" works for the sander and band saw.
Scott Laughlin
601XL/Corvair Plans-Builder
Finishing up BRS Installation
----- Original Message ----
From: Bruno <sonexplus@libero.it
I'm a new CH-701 scratch builder and i'm starting to cut of cutting and
forming blocks...
What are the recomended dimensions for a bandsaw throat opening and for the
sawing material thick?
And the Sander? Only disc or disc/belt sander? Suggested disc dimension?
What about this two in one:
http://cgi.ebay.it/SEGA-A-NASTRO-CON-LEVIGATRICE-INCORPORATA-REXON_W0QQitemZ190048238559QQihZ009QQcategoryZ20785QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Message 10
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| Subject: | Bandsaw dimension question |
He who dies with the most tools wins.
Ed Moody II
Rayne, LA
601XL/Jabiru/cabin area
Yup , buddy walks through garage door the other day and announced that
I may die now I have already won. I looked at him and said yes but for
where I'm going I need a lot more to build a ladder.
Cdngoose
Do not archive
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
11/4/2006
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Bandsaw dimension question |
I think what you meant to say is, "The refrigerator in the background is
mandatory". You don't have to thank me for correcting your error.
Dave in Salem where it is breaking records for rainfall already.
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "N5SL" <nfivesl@yahoo.com>
Sent: Monday, November 06, 2006 1:51 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Bandsaw dimension question
>
> Hi Bruno:
>
> Don't waste your money on that Ebay junk. You need a full-size band saw
> (12"). Mine is here and it worked great:
> http://www.cooknwithgas.com/Bandsaw.jpg
> The refrigerator in the background is not necessary.
>
> Also, don't buy a small, cheap sander (ask me how I know). I have this
> one and it is great:
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=43468
> I sand Chrome-moly or wood with this one and it works very well.
>
> This was the first sander I bought and it is junk:
> http://www.cooknwithgas.com/Sander.jpg
> Same thing on the band saw. The little saws don't work well.
>
> So in both cases, 12" works for the sander and band saw.
>
> Scott Laughlin
> 601XL/Corvair Plans-Builder
> Finishing up BRS Installation
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Bruno <sonexplus@libero.it
> I'm a new CH-701 scratch builder and i'm starting to cut of cutting and
> forming blocks...
> What are the recomended dimensions for a bandsaw throat opening and for
> the
> sawing material thick?
>
> And the Sander? Only disc or disc/belt sander? Suggested disc dimension?
>
> What about this two in one:
> http://cgi.ebay.it/SEGA-A-NASTRO-CON-LEVIGATRICE-INCORPORATA-REXON_W0QQitemZ190048238559QQihZ009QQcategoryZ20785QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Bandsaw dimension question |
Bruno, if you're poor like me you can get buy with a handheld jig saw and an air/electric
angle grinder. The belt sander is almost indispensable though. If you
can't afford an air compressor you can get a riveting attachment for your drill.
Ha, Ha, you can probably build the airframe for six grand if you scrounge
hard enough!
Terry Turnquist
601 XL Plans
St. Peters, MO
Bruno <sonexplus@libero.it> wrote:
Hi,
I'm a new CH-701 scratch builder and i'm starting to cut of cutting and
forming blocks...
What are the recomended dimensions for a bandsaw throat opening and for the
sawing material thick?
And the Sander? Only disc or disc/belt sander? Suggested disc dimension?
What about this two in one:
http://cgi.ebay.it/SEGA-A-NASTRO-CON-LEVIGATRICE-INCORPORATA-REXON_W0QQitemZ190048238559QQihZ009QQcategoryZ20785QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Thanks in advance.
Bruno Melegari
Italy
Setting up my workshop...
---------------------------------
Sponsored Link
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than one year.
Message 13
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|
I hate to admit this, but since I don't have to face anyone I will.
After all these years, I don't really know how to use a router. Should I
buy a book? Basically what I need to know is, if I want to make a wood
die so I can make some aluminum cover to seal a gap between a pipe and
the surrounding metal, how do I do it? Do I cut out a metal one first
and then use it to cut around or what? The question seems kind of
confusing to me too. This seems really simple, but I don't get it. I
would appreciate any suggestions, or at least most of them.
Dave in Salem
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Bandsaw dimension question |
Bruno - Not sure if you can get one of these Ridgid sanders on the continent, but
it is THE machine for scratch builders. I've made all of my forms on a 10"
Craftsman bandsaw and this sander. It does the bevels and the crimp locations
with ease.
Chris in Seattle
--------
701 Scratch Builder
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=72721#72721
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/rigid_199.jpg
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Bandsaw dimension question |
Hi Bruno,
I guess I will weigh in on the tools. I am not a scratch builder,
but I have been buying and using machine tools for a lifetime.
First the easy one - I bought one of the $100 combination belt and
disc sanders by Delta sold at Lowes. I use it all the time for
shaping parts after rough cutting them with a band saw or other
technique. I never use the disk, but the 42" belt sander has a great
cast iron work support which is just the thing for grinding relief
angles on forming blocks.
The band saw is a lot harder. You can buy one of these for prices
ranging from under $100 to the price of a new house. I would suggest
you limit your choices to saws that have blade guides both above and
below the work support table. If it turns out this makes the choices
too expensive for your budget then do without the band saw all
together. It is not necessary anyway. If you want a slightly slower
cutting saw with a more natural ability to cut a straight line then a
nice scroll saw might work better for you. Again there is a Delta
scroll saw available at Lowes for around $100 with a cast iron table
that might work well for you.
In my shop, the drill press gets the most use. This is followed (in
order) by the little belt sander, the band saw (for rough cutting
only), and then the scroll saw. I have not used my wood lathe yet
for aircraft purposes, and only have used the metal lathe and milling
machine for making my own tools.
The tool that gets the most work building a metal airplane is your
hand held drill. This is where you should spend the most time
finding the choice that feels best in your hand. It will be your
partner throughout the building process.
Good luck,
Paul
XL fuselage
P.S. On the few occasions I made forming blocks, I used hardwood
plywood 3/4" thick with great results.
At 12:57 PM 11/6/2006, you wrote:
>
>Hi,
>I'm a new CH-701 scratch builder and i'm starting to cut of cutting
>and forming blocks...
>What are the recomended dimensions for a bandsaw throat opening and
>for the sawing material thick?
>
>And the Sander? Only disc or disc/belt sander? Suggested disc dimension?
>
-
Message 16
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|
Is there anyone in the Seattle area who would be kind enough to lend me
their slat jigs?
Thanks,
--
John Marzulli
http://701Builder.blogspot.com/
"Flying a plane is no different than riding a bicycle... it's just a lot
harder to put baseball cards in the spokes.
Message 17
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| Subject: | Hinge bracket size, 7-A-1-5 |
Jerry,
I'm buliding per Edition 5 Rev 6 dated 04/2006, just received the plans last
week. My print for 7-A-1 is dated 1/2004. The -5 hinge bracket is still dimensioned
3/4"X 3/4"X.093".
Art
701/rudder/plans/Just starting
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Router Use 101 |
On 11/6/06, Dave Ruddiman <pacificpainting@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> Basically what I need to know is, if I want to make a wood die so I
> can make some aluminum cover to seal a gap between a pipe and the
> surrounding metal, how do I do it?
There are three basic ways to get an exact cut with a router:
bearing
pilot
jig
The bearing mounts on (is part of) the actual bit, and rides against
whatever is used as a template.
The pilot (bushing) mounts to the router, and surrounds part of the
bit a fixed, exact amount.
The jig (straightedge, circle template, pantograph, whatever) either
mounts to the router body, or clamps to the workpiece and the router
is then run against it.
Only the first two are easily applicable to most of what we are trying
to do, and the bearing is usually simpler. The pilot is offset from
the bit (o.d. of pilot minus o.d. of bit /2) which has to be
calculated and laid out on whatever you are using for a guide.
Bearings can be either the same size as the bit, or offset. Layout
will be simpler if you choose a bit with a bearing the same size.
So, first you have to lay out on something (maybe a piece of plywood
without any voids) the design of the parts you are trying to make.
Then cut it out with either a bandsaw or jig saw, making sure to stay
outside the lines. Then, use a disk sander to smooth the cut edges
exactly to the lines. You now have a template.
Then, you cut out the blanks for whatever you are trying to make
(aluminum plate for nose ribs, form blocks for ribs, whatever) and
clamp (or bolt, or screw) them to the template.
Then, you run the router around the template to cut the blank(s) to
accurate shape. Keep in mind that the router bit spins clockwise
looking down on it (handheld router), so if you go around the template
in a counterclockwise direction the spinning of the bit will hold the
bearing tight against the template.
This guy:
http://www.bkfliers.com/
has some very detailed construction photos of doing exactly that in
his build logs.
--
Regards,
RonB
Message 19
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| Subject: | Bandsaw dimension question |
I bought a cheap Ryobi 10 inch band saw from Home Depot. Its instructions
specifically say "for cutting wood only" and it only came with wood blades.
That being said it was so cheap that I still use it for cutting metal and
will throw it away when it wears out. It did take a bit of searching to find
fine-toothed blades to cut metal on it. It does have top and bottom guides
and has held up well so far but I am not a scratch builder.
-- Craig
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Hinge bracket size, 7-A-1-5 |
In a message dated 11/5/2006 3:04:22 PM Central Standard Time,
bob@frontrange-pc.com writes:
received my plans this past January. They show =BE x .093.
How recently was this supposed to have changed?
Bob Percival
Bob, I don't know that it has changed. Saw flaperons with the larger angle o
n
the work bench at the Aug open hanger day. Could have been 801?? Looked like
701 though.
I'm getting to the 7-A-1 work and can still go either way. Don't recall any
builder complaints about this area. Flaperons have been a quiet subject so f
ar.
Jerry
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Hinge bracket size, 7-A-1-5 |
In a message dated 11/6/2006 6:21:08 PM Central Standard Time,
ifly4fun2@sbcglobal.net writes:
I'm buliding per Edition 5 Rev 6 dated 04/2006, just received the plans last
week. My print for 7-A-1 is dated 1/2004. The -5 hinge bracket is still
dimensioned 3/4"X 3/4"X.093
Art, Thanks much. This is the same info that I'm working to as well, so, I'll
proceed with what I have.
Jerry
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Bandsaw dimension question |
I've been using the same machine and it's been doing quite well with 14 TPI
blades also from Homely Depot.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Craig Payne" <craig@craigandjean.com>
Sent: Monday, November 06, 2006 6:31 PM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Bandsaw dimension question
>
> I bought a cheap Ryobi 10 inch band saw from Home Depot. Its instructions
> specifically say "for cutting wood only" and it only came with wood
> blades.
> That being said it was so cheap that I still use it for cutting metal and
> will throw it away when it wears out. It did take a bit of searching to
> find
> fine-toothed blades to cut metal on it. It does have top and bottom guides
> and has held up well so far but I am not a scratch builder.
>
> -- Craig
>
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Bandsaw dimension question |
Craig,
Here is a URL for a company that has every size band saw blade there is
and their prices are very good. They also fill orders on the same day as
they are received. When the people who made your saw put the notice, "For
wood cutting only" they must have been refering to the blade that came with
it.
http://www.woodworker.com/
Bob Stone, Harker Heights, Tx
ZodiacXL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Craig Payne" <craig@craigandjean.com>
Sent: Monday, November 06, 2006 6:31 PM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Bandsaw dimension question
>
> I bought a cheap Ryobi 10 inch band saw from Home Depot. Its instructions
> specifically say "for cutting wood only" and it only came with wood
> blades.
> That being said it was so cheap that I still use it for cutting metal and
> will throw it away when it wears out. It did take a bit of searching to
> find
> fine-toothed blades to cut metal on it. It does have top and bottom guides
> and has held up well so far but I am not a scratch builder.
>
> -- Craig
>
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Bandsaw dimension question |
http://oneworld1.inetu.net/manuals/index.php?dir=ryobi/&file=BS1001_269_eng.
pdf
(Quote from page 17)
APPLICATIONS
You may use this tool for the purposes listed below:
- Scroll cutting and circle cutting of wood and wood composition
products
- Relief cutting of wood and wood composition products
I think they were a little concerned with the dust collection system too.
Not that I have let this stop me.
This is where I bought my fine-toothed blades: www.ebandsawblades.com/
-- Craig
Message 25
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| Subject: | Bandsaw dimensions |
I have used a Taiwanese-built knock-off of the "Jet" brand bandsaw for
the last 20 years. I wouldn't recommend a saw with a throat smaller
than the 14" I have. Mine is a wood-cutting saw, but I find that a
fine-toothed wood blade works well on aluminum and plastics also. I buy
my blades from a local saw and tool supply company. They keep bandsaw
blade stock in bulk and cut and weld new blades to order.
I did replace the guides with a better set of roller bearing guides.
For accurate cutting, good guides are essential. I also recommend
getting a saw with a built-in connection for your shopvac. It really
reduces the amount of sawdust and aluminum chips in the work area.
I use a cheap Delta belt/disc sander to bring the saw-cut edges down to
final dimension. It also has a shopvac connection.
When considering the price of a bandsaw, remember that a decent bandsaw
is a pretty durable machine. You should be able to sell it for at least
half what you paid, if you can stand to part with it.
All this based on my own experience. Other opinions welcome.
George
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