Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:41 AM - Re: Re: Forward Access skin. (Phil Maxson)
2. 05:14 AM - Re: Big mistake (Noel Loveys)
3. 05:35 AM - Aileron stop (Dave Johnson)
4. 07:14 AM - Re: Too picky? (Bill Naumuk)
5. 07:14 AM - Re: Too picky? (Bill Naumuk)
6. 07:25 AM - Re: More flight testing (Steve Hulland)
7. 07:50 AM - Re: Re: Forward Access skin. (Edward Moody II)
8. 08:24 AM - Re: Re: Forward Access skin. (NYTerminat@aol.com)
9. 08:49 AM - Re: The book (Bill Naumuk)
10. 08:49 AM - Re: The book (Bill Naumuk)
11. 09:05 AM - The book (Bill Naumuk)
12. 09:08 AM - Bushing material for 701s? (Les Goldner)
13. 09:28 AM - Re: Bushing material for 701s? (NYTerminat@aol.com)
14. 09:29 AM - Fw: slat/vg experiment (Joe and Joan)
15. 09:36 AM - Re: Re: Forward Access skin. (Dave Austin)
16. 10:03 AM - Re: Re: Forward Access skin. (Paul Mulwitz)
17. 11:21 AM - Re: Re: Nose gear strut 601 (Juan Vega)
18. 11:21 AM - Re: Nose gear strut 601 (Juan Vega)
19. 11:25 AM - Re: vg's (Juan Vega)
20. 12:51 PM - Re: Bushing material for 701s? (Bryan Martin)
21. 01:19 PM - Re: Re: Forward Access skin. (Bryan Martin)
22. 01:43 PM - Re: Re: Forward Access skin. ()
23. 02:07 PM - Re: Aileron stop (flyingmike9)
24. 03:03 PM - Re: Re: unbelievable! (William Dominguez)
25. 03:35 PM - Re: Re: unbelievable! (Bill Naumuk)
26. 03:59 PM - VG's on 701 Amphibian....First impression! (Avidmagnum)
27. 04:19 PM - Re: Bushing material for 701s? (Juan Vega)
28. 04:37 PM - Re: More flight testing (Brandon Tucker)
29. 04:51 PM - cool pictures (Juan Vega)
30. 05:17 PM - Re: cool pictures (Juan Vega)
31. 05:25 PM - boots for 701s? (Robin Bellach)
32. 06:08 PM - Re: Re: Forward Access skin. (Edward Moody II)
33. 06:37 PM - Re: Re: unbelievable! (Big Gee)
34. 06:59 PM - Re: boots for 701s? (Juan Vega)
35. 08:27 PM - Re: CH701 Power: Rotax or Jabiru (secatur)
36. 09:35 PM - baggage locker (Carlos Sa)
37. 09:59 PM - Re: Bushing material for 701s? (Craig Payne)
38. 10:10 PM - Re: Re: CH701 Power: Rotax or Jabiru (Paul Mulwitz)
39. 10:37 PM - Re: VG's on 701 Amphibian....First impression! (Josh Olson)
40. 11:32 PM - Re: baggage locker (Ron Lendon)
41. 11:47 PM - Re: boots for 701s? (Craig Payne)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Forward Access skin. |
I made my forward top skin removable also. I used Riv-Nuts with locktite a
nd many of them spun anyway, now I'm converting over to J-Nuts. They can b
e found at McMaster-Carr ( http://www.mcmaster.com/ ). Just type in "J Nut
s" in the search engine. Actually, I'm using "U STyle Nuts" but they are f
ound with the same search.
Having gone through all this, I doubt I would do it again. It is just as e
asy to drill out the rivets in seconds and re-rivet when you're done. I ov
er-thought that one.Phil Maxson601XL/CorvairNorthwest New Jersey
From: tonyplane@bellsouth.netSubject: Zenith-List: Re: Forward Access skin.
One thing I would highly recommend is making the top forward skin removable
.
<<SNIP>>
_________________________________________________________________
All-in-one security and maintenance for your PC.- Get a free 90-day trial
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Message 2
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There are a few things that come to mind...
The voltage regulator/rectifier may be blown. There may be a chassis
ground
on those things around one of the mounting holes with a little corrosion
it
won't work. Because it is a regulator/rectifier an automotive regulator
won't work but you might get something at the local Ski-Doo, Sea-Doo
shop to
do the job.
The battery may be low on electrolyte ( water) and may not be offering
the
load to the voltage regulator/rectifier.
Your battery may not be connected to the charging circuit.. There may
be a
circuit breaker between the battery and the regulator which is open.
Finally I am assuming you are using a calibrated voltmeter across the
battery terminals. The cigarette lighter will do if the battery is
connected to the main buss... see item immediately above. Test with the
engine running and your normal electrical equipment energized. I have
learned not to trust the Kitfox instruments for anything except trends.
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave G.
Sent: Friday, December 08, 2006 7:05 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Big mistake
I'm no guru but this might be the cause. The standard rectifier for the
582
requires a minimum 1 amp draw, any less and you'll get high voltage
spikes.
Good luck.
----- Original Message -----
From: Neitzel <mailto:n963wb@frontiernet.net>
Sent: Friday, December 08, 2006 5:21 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Big mistake
Greetings all,
Also was wondering if there are any 582 guru's out there. Got a high
volt
indication on the EIS (17+ volts). Checked tightness of bonding straps
and
all other related wiring and found none loose. It has 150 hours on it
and
the battery is only 18 months old. Any thoughts? Any easy way to check
the
regulator?
Message 3
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I wonder if there is anyone who is building from a CZAW kit who can
help?
The Aileron Stop (6-B-17-7CZ) is shown on the drawings as 90mm high, the
part supplied with the kit is 130mm high, which puts the top almost
level with the torque tube. (the CZ version uses a stop at the rear end
of the torque tube, I believe the ZAC version uses stops at the ailerons
themselves).
I queried this with CZAW and was told to 'trim it to 105mm', not much
use as it it a Z-section with a flange at each end!
How has anyone else got around this, or have I just been supplied with a
duff part? (It is obviously not 6164 alloy - wrong colour)
Dave Johnson
Message 4
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Ron
Before I forward a whole batch of PDFs, is there anything different
in what you sent me than what is available online? I really want to put
the C section to bed before going farther, and ordered some Nuvite
compounding pads. At this point, I'm willing to try anything!!
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: Ronald Black
To: Bill Naumuk
Sent: Friday, December 08, 2006 3:50 PM
Subject: Re: Too picky?
One grade per bonnet is a good idea, that way you don't mix up and use
a bonnet (pad) with F9 on it when trying to use something less
aggressive like grade C. But you can wash your pads, and then use them
wherever.
Use a spur to refluff the wool every 15 minutes or so. Just turn the
buffer over and turn it on, running the spur back and forth over the
face of the pad. The matted wool will fluff back up. When the nap no
longer fluffs back up, and all you get are matted layers, it is time to
change to a new pad. You can wash these matted layer pads with "TSP"
(tri sodium phosphate) - the stuff you use to wash down a wall before
wallpapering. Get it at True Value or other hardware. Be sure to get
the kind with phosphate in it (some are phosphate-free tri sodium
PHOSPHATE... -huh?) Anyway, I mix a pound box (it is a powder) in a
5-gallon bucket of hot water ('way strong) and soak my pads all night
and pour the whole thing out on weeds the next day.
Use a hose to pressure spray the face of the pads and the gray slurry
that is left in the pads will wash out. (Use rubber gloves to hold them
while you spray them.) Let them drain for about a half hour or so by
standing up against something, and then they can be put into the normal
washing machine as they are clean enough you won't get a divorce over
the whole deal. Use a double shot of regular Tide and then rinse again
with a prewash cycle with no soap. Let them air dry in the sun or spin
them on the buffer, then air dry. They will look almost new. Don't try
to polish until they are completely dry. My experience shows that you
can wash a pad 4-5 times if you don't pack them too bad - i.e., overuse
them before changing pads. When the tufting unravels, the pad is going
to make you work too hard, so that's why 4-5 washings is about the
limit.
Our pads are as good as I have found, and are less cost than most.
However, the 3M #05711 from an auto refinisher store is good, and you
can sometimes find compounding pads from Advance Auto parts stores. -
F.Y.I. Just gotta be sure that is 100% wool and twilled into tufts
instead of loose wool. These will make a big difference in how much
work you have to do and the results.
Know what you mean about down on your back stuff! Truthfully, if
building a 601, I think I might paint (tsk, tsk... what I just said!)
the bottom of the wings tail and belly with silver. Even if I didn't
paint that, I figure that if somebody gets down on his belly to look
under there, and he finds a less than perfect polish job, he deserves
it! If it's a 701, then, under the wing --at least it will last a long
time!
keep in touch - and post these if you wish
-Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Naumuk
To: ronblackink@earthlink.net
Sent: 12/7/2006 6:11:47 PM
Subject: Re: Too picky?
Ron-
Not bad for an old fart. Thanks!
I'm using flannel bonnets, because I got no life out of wool.
No, I didn't use Nuvite compounding bonnets. I might order a few to see
how they work. Some listers have recommended only using one grade per
bonnet. Thoughts?
I have both circular and orbital polishers. Circular for all but
S grade.
I use about the same amount of polish as you recommend.
Interesting that you don't recommend S polishing until after
assembly. I hate the idea of having to polish uphand, on my back.
I'm keeping my polish in the house so it doesn't freeze. Good to
hear the shop atmosphere shouldn't be a problem.
Thanks again.
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: Ronald Black
To: Bill Naumuk
Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 3:25 PM
Subject: Re: Too picky?
Bill - I'll do the best I can here - but typing everything out and
not being able to ask questions as I go are tough for an old guy like
me! Anyway - NuShine II (all grades) should not be allowed to freeze -
can't predict whether they work properly or not after freezing.
I'm guessing you might have technique problems, or you might not
be using a true "compounding" pad. Recently, I've had several folks who
have been using the wool pad that comes from the hardware store, a
"tie-on" type, or the one that came with the 7" circular buffer. A true
compounding pad has the wool twilled up into tufts like a cut pile
carpet. Look at the edge of the pad where you can see the fibers. They
will be twisted into tufts on a compounding pad. If the wool is loose
hairs, that pad is for paint buffing, and doesn't work for beans on
metal polishing. By the way, I am assuming you are using a variable
speed "circular" buffer - one that spins the pad - vs. the orbital type
that we only use for finishing with Grade S. There are pictures of each
on our web site in the "Procedures" area www.nuvitechemical.com -go to
the aviation dropdown, and click on procedures. You can read or
download the book.
Buffing in a cold environment is usually not a serious problem
unless the surface is extremely (freezing) clod. But, the environment
should have some humidity. Guys have had trouble polishing down in dry
climates like Arizona when the humidity is below 20 %. When it get
below 15% or so, we recommend very, very (very) fine trigger spray water
mist on the surface before polishing. Note that this is merely
"humidity" and not drops of water, as wet polishing doesn't work. I
wouldn't think you would have such a low humidity problem where you are.
On the technique side: you should be using only a very small
amount of polish on a small area at a time. I recommend about a 2' by 1
1/2' area, and I put my finger across the top of the polish in the jar,
and put a big wet fingerprint of polish every 3" across the area, going
back to wet my finger after every few prints. Then go down 3" and put
another row, etc. Then using a 100% wool compounding pad (see above), I
pad the wet fingerprints down so I don't throw wet polish around, and
then turn on the buffer, running 1500 rpm or so when the surface is raw.
(After a couple of passes, you can run 1500 to 2000 rpm due to less
surface friction.) Move the buffer back and forth - don't stop and
"grind" on one spot. About a foot of movement every 2-3 seconds. If
you use the proper amount of polish, the black "slurry" that forms on
the surface will begin to disappear in 45 seconds or a minute of
buffing. If it takes longer than a minute for the polish to clear off,
there is too much polish on the surface and the buffer is just sliding
around, and not smoothing the surface. So it is better, time and effort
wise, to use the correct amount of polish. Just work each area then go
to the next, etc. The Zenith aircraft are 6061 non-clad aluminum, so
you are probably going to have to make multiple passes with F9 to smooth
out the mill marks.
Once you have the surface smoothed, then use either cleaned pads
or new compounding pads, and do two passes of Grade C. The first pass
will brighten the surface, and the second will really make the
brightness "pop". (Don't know why it takes two passes, but I haven't
found a better alternative.) There will be "swirl" marks on the
surface left by the buffing pad after this, but they come out when you
do the final polish.
I would leave the skins at this point until the plane is complete,
assembled and local flight hours flown off. Then I would touch up those
areas that have needs due to the assembly and wrenching activity, then
hit it with the final finish, Grade S with the orbital buffer and cotton
flannel cloth.
There is good news on your side, though! Yes, there is more time
and effort to polishing non-clad aluminum, instead of the softer surface
Alclad, but once you have polished the non-clad, it will stay highly
polished longer and is tougher to fog up when debugging/washing/spot
cleaning. 'Way longer!
Now you can see why I like to talk to people - I'm long winded!
Seriously, I still would like to talk to you by phone. I am in the
central time zone, and am always available all day and up until about
midnight CST, so you can call toll-free (888) 326-6489. Attached is our
full "Polishing Book" 28 5 1/2" X 8 1/2" pgs.
Hope this helps!
-Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Naumuk
To: ronblackink@earthlink.net
Sent: 12/5/2006 5:59:27 PM
Subject: Re: Too picky?
Ron-
I sent a message through the Nuvite website re: effects of
cold on polish effectiveness.
To make it quick, my shop is heated with a ventless propane
heater. I'm reluctant to leave the heater burning when I'm not building.
I start the heater about 1hr before working, and the ambient
temperature is comfortable. I'm wondering if the aluminum is still
cold-soaked, because I'm having a terrible time getting an "S" grade
shine. Hell, I had a hard time getting an "S" grade shine when it was
warm out!
To be on the safe side, I brought my polish inside to keep
it from possibly freezing.
I've tried a number of different techniques and bonnets with
differing success. All help is appreciated.
Please e-mail me so I can try to explain my difficulties in
detail, with pictures that may help. With my commute and work schedule,
a phone conversation is near impossible. No, I don't own a cell. If I
did, things would only be worse!
Thanks.
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: Ronald Black
To: naumuk@alltel.net
Sent: Monday, December 04, 2006 6:28 PM
Subject: Too picky?
Bill - I am Ron Black and I am the "Nuvite Guy" - the one you
get when you call Nuvite and ask for help. Dale Carlson contacted me
and said there was some action on the Zenith list about using Nuvite
polish to polish out Zenith airplanes. I saw your post. Maybe I can
help. Call me toll free at (888) 326-6489. I love to talk about
airplanes and to the people they own.
-Ron
Message 5
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Ron-
Have a ton of people that want to see the information in the "Book".
Is this the same information available on-line?
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: Ronald Black
To: Bill Naumuk
Sent: Friday, December 08, 2006 3:50 PM
Subject: Re: Too picky?
One grade per bonnet is a good idea, that way you don't mix up and use
a bonnet (pad) with F9 on it when trying to use something less
aggressive like grade C. But you can wash your pads, and then use them
wherever.
Use a spur to refluff the wool every 15 minutes or so. Just turn the
buffer over and turn it on, running the spur back and forth over the
face of the pad. The matted wool will fluff back up. When the nap no
longer fluffs back up, and all you get are matted layers, it is time to
change to a new pad. You can wash these matted layer pads with "TSP"
(tri sodium phosphate) - the stuff you use to wash down a wall before
wallpapering. Get it at True Value or other hardware. Be sure to get
the kind with phosphate in it (some are phosphate-free tri sodium
PHOSPHATE... -huh?) Anyway, I mix a pound box (it is a powder) in a
5-gallon bucket of hot water ('way strong) and soak my pads all night
and pour the whole thing out on weeds the next day.
Use a hose to pressure spray the face of the pads and the gray slurry
that is left in the pads will wash out. (Use rubber gloves to hold them
while you spray them.) Let them drain for about a half hour or so by
standing up against something, and then they can be put into the normal
washing machine as they are clean enough you won't get a divorce over
the whole deal. Use a double shot of regular Tide and then rinse again
with a prewash cycle with no soap. Let them air dry in the sun or spin
them on the buffer, then air dry. They will look almost new. Don't try
to polish until they are completely dry. My experience shows that you
can wash a pad 4-5 times if you don't pack them too bad - i.e., overuse
them before changing pads. When the tufting unravels, the pad is going
to make you work too hard, so that's why 4-5 washings is about the
limit.
Our pads are as good as I have found, and are less cost than most.
However, the 3M #05711 from an auto refinisher store is good, and you
can sometimes find compounding pads from Advance Auto parts stores. -
F.Y.I. Just gotta be sure that is 100% wool and twilled into tufts
instead of loose wool. These will make a big difference in how much
work you have to do and the results.
Know what you mean about down on your back stuff! Truthfully, if
building a 601, I think I might paint (tsk, tsk... what I just said!)
the bottom of the wings tail and belly with silver. Even if I didn't
paint that, I figure that if somebody gets down on his belly to look
under there, and he finds a less than perfect polish job, he deserves
it! If it's a 701, then, under the wing --at least it will last a long
time!
keep in touch - and post these if you wish
-Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Naumuk
To: ronblackink@earthlink.net
Sent: 12/7/2006 6:11:47 PM
Subject: Re: Too picky?
Ron-
Not bad for an old fart. Thanks!
I'm using flannel bonnets, because I got no life out of wool.
No, I didn't use Nuvite compounding bonnets. I might order a few to see
how they work. Some listers have recommended only using one grade per
bonnet. Thoughts?
I have both circular and orbital polishers. Circular for all but
S grade.
I use about the same amount of polish as you recommend.
Interesting that you don't recommend S polishing until after
assembly. I hate the idea of having to polish uphand, on my back.
I'm keeping my polish in the house so it doesn't freeze. Good to
hear the shop atmosphere shouldn't be a problem.
Thanks again.
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: Ronald Black
To: Bill Naumuk
Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 3:25 PM
Subject: Re: Too picky?
Bill - I'll do the best I can here - but typing everything out and
not being able to ask questions as I go are tough for an old guy like
me! Anyway - NuShine II (all grades) should not be allowed to freeze -
can't predict whether they work properly or not after freezing.
I'm guessing you might have technique problems, or you might not
be using a true "compounding" pad. Recently, I've had several folks who
have been using the wool pad that comes from the hardware store, a
"tie-on" type, or the one that came with the 7" circular buffer. A true
compounding pad has the wool twilled up into tufts like a cut pile
carpet. Look at the edge of the pad where you can see the fibers. They
will be twisted into tufts on a compounding pad. If the wool is loose
hairs, that pad is for paint buffing, and doesn't work for beans on
metal polishing. By the way, I am assuming you are using a variable
speed "circular" buffer - one that spins the pad - vs. the orbital type
that we only use for finishing with Grade S. There are pictures of each
on our web site in the "Procedures" area www.nuvitechemical.com -go to
the aviation dropdown, and click on procedures. You can read or
download the book.
Buffing in a cold environment is usually not a serious problem
unless the surface is extremely (freezing) clod. But, the environment
should have some humidity. Guys have had trouble polishing down in dry
climates like Arizona when the humidity is below 20 %. When it get
below 15% or so, we recommend very, very (very) fine trigger spray water
mist on the surface before polishing. Note that this is merely
"humidity" and not drops of water, as wet polishing doesn't work. I
wouldn't think you would have such a low humidity problem where you are.
On the technique side: you should be using only a very small
amount of polish on a small area at a time. I recommend about a 2' by 1
1/2' area, and I put my finger across the top of the polish in the jar,
and put a big wet fingerprint of polish every 3" across the area, going
back to wet my finger after every few prints. Then go down 3" and put
another row, etc. Then using a 100% wool compounding pad (see above), I
pad the wet fingerprints down so I don't throw wet polish around, and
then turn on the buffer, running 1500 rpm or so when the surface is raw.
(After a couple of passes, you can run 1500 to 2000 rpm due to less
surface friction.) Move the buffer back and forth - don't stop and
"grind" on one spot. About a foot of movement every 2-3 seconds. If
you use the proper amount of polish, the black "slurry" that forms on
the surface will begin to disappear in 45 seconds or a minute of
buffing. If it takes longer than a minute for the polish to clear off,
there is too much polish on the surface and the buffer is just sliding
around, and not smoothing the surface. So it is better, time and effort
wise, to use the correct amount of polish. Just work each area then go
to the next, etc. The Zenith aircraft are 6061 non-clad aluminum, so
you are probably going to have to make multiple passes with F9 to smooth
out the mill marks.
Once you have the surface smoothed, then use either cleaned pads
or new compounding pads, and do two passes of Grade C. The first pass
will brighten the surface, and the second will really make the
brightness "pop". (Don't know why it takes two passes, but I haven't
found a better alternative.) There will be "swirl" marks on the
surface left by the buffing pad after this, but they come out when you
do the final polish.
I would leave the skins at this point until the plane is complete,
assembled and local flight hours flown off. Then I would touch up those
areas that have needs due to the assembly and wrenching activity, then
hit it with the final finish, Grade S with the orbital buffer and cotton
flannel cloth.
There is good news on your side, though! Yes, there is more time
and effort to polishing non-clad aluminum, instead of the softer surface
Alclad, but once you have polished the non-clad, it will stay highly
polished longer and is tougher to fog up when debugging/washing/spot
cleaning. 'Way longer!
Now you can see why I like to talk to people - I'm long winded!
Seriously, I still would like to talk to you by phone. I am in the
central time zone, and am always available all day and up until about
midnight CST, so you can call toll-free (888) 326-6489. Attached is our
full "Polishing Book" 28 5 1/2" X 8 1/2" pgs.
Hope this helps!
-Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Naumuk
To: ronblackink@earthlink.net
Sent: 12/5/2006 5:59:27 PM
Subject: Re: Too picky?
Ron-
I sent a message through the Nuvite website re: effects of
cold on polish effectiveness.
To make it quick, my shop is heated with a ventless propane
heater. I'm reluctant to leave the heater burning when I'm not building.
I start the heater about 1hr before working, and the ambient
temperature is comfortable. I'm wondering if the aluminum is still
cold-soaked, because I'm having a terrible time getting an "S" grade
shine. Hell, I had a hard time getting an "S" grade shine when it was
warm out!
To be on the safe side, I brought my polish inside to keep
it from possibly freezing.
I've tried a number of different techniques and bonnets with
differing success. All help is appreciated.
Please e-mail me so I can try to explain my difficulties in
detail, with pictures that may help. With my commute and work schedule,
a phone conversation is near impossible. No, I don't own a cell. If I
did, things would only be worse!
Thanks.
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: Ronald Black
To: naumuk@alltel.net
Sent: Monday, December 04, 2006 6:28 PM
Subject: Too picky?
Bill - I am Ron Black and I am the "Nuvite Guy" - the one you
get when you call Nuvite and ask for help. Dale Carlson contacted me
and said there was some action on the Zenith list about using Nuvite
polish to polish out Zenith airplanes. I saw your post. Maybe I can
help. Call me toll free at (888) 326-6489. I love to talk about
airplanes and to the people they own.
-Ron
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: More flight testing |
Brandon,
Need some pictures of your 601 Taildragger.
--
Semper Fi,
Steven R. Hulland
CH 600 Taildragger
Amado, AZ
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| Subject: | Re: Forward Access skin. |
I'm not at that point yet Phil, so I may have missed something obvious.
If you elect to drill out rivets at service or repair/maintenance times,
you will reassemble with unpainted rivets. Speaking only for myself, I
would not look forward to touch-up painting on a herd of new rivets
anytime I wanted or needed to get under that forward top skin.
As an alternative, has anybody figured a reasonably convenient way to
make the just the instrument panel detachable? With 12 - 18 inches of
extra wire (bundled into a single cable or at most two or three cables)
and with the throttle, carb heat and cabin heat disconnected, could one
detach and displace (or even unplug and disconnect) the panel? Would
that weaken the side to side reinforcement of the cockpit walls?
Bear in mind that(A) I'm not an aeronautical engineer, (B) Ihave
actually reached that point to experiment, so (C) this is just thinking
out loud to the list.
So far, of all the options presented, I like the idea of using the
largest possible access hatches in the forward top skin that do not
extend past and under the canopy anywhere. What about using both
ideas...... a completely removable forward top skin with access hatches
in the area inside the canopy. That would make it less likely (but still
possible and convenient) to have to remove the entire skin.
I like this topic much better than venting personal stuff. And hey, did
you notice that I let very little sarcasm sneak in?
Ed Moody II
Rayne, LA
601XL/Jabiru/cabin area
This one is worth archiving, IMHO.
----- Original Message -----
From: Phil Maxson
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, December 09, 2006 6:40 AM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Re: Forward Access skin.
I made my forward top skin removable also. I used Riv-Nuts with
locktite and many of them spun anyway, now I'm converting over to
J-Nuts. They can be found at McMaster-Carr ( http://www.mcmaster.com/
). Just type in "J Nuts" in the search engine. Actually, I'm using "U
STyle Nuts" but they are found with the same search.
Having gone through all this, I doubt I would do it again. It is just
as easy to drill out the rivets in seconds and re-rivet when you're
done. I over-thought that one.
Phil Maxson
601XL/Corvair
Northwest New Jersey
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Forward Access skin. |
That is what we did using the vibration mounts. Check the posts on whether
you need to mount the instruments on vibration dampers. I built the panel in
two sections, one for the instruments and one for the radio stack. They are
mounted to the original panel that has been cut out to accept the instrument and
radio cluster. When I need to replace or repair an instrument, I just remove
the 4 cap nuts from the vibration dampers and remove that section of panel.
I have a whip under the panel so that I can pill out that section about 15
inches.
Bob Spudis
N701ZX
CH701/912S
In a message dated 12/9/2006 10:51:49 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
dredmoody@cox.net writes:
I'm not at that point yet Phil, so I may have missed something obvious. If
you elect to drill out rivets at service or repair/maintenance times, you will
reassemble with unpainted rivets. Speaking only for myself, I would not look
forward to touch-up painting on a herd of new rivets anytime I wanted or
needed to get under that forward top skin.
As an alternative, has anybody figured a reasonably convenient way to make
the just the instrument panel detachable? With 12 - 18 inches of extra wire
(bundled into a single cable or at most two or three cables) and with the
throttle, carb heat and cabin heat disconnected, could one detach and displace
(or
even unplug and disconnect) the panel? Would that weaken the side to side
reinforcement of the cockpit walls?
Message 9
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Try this
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: David Downey
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 9:04 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: The book
do not list
I would appreciate the pages PDF'd Bill.
Bill Naumuk <naumuk@alltel.net> wrote:
Ron-
Thanks for providing me with the "Book" on Nuvite polishing.
Luckily, I got the last Samsung laser printer Staples had on sale
Black Friday for $40.00 and I can actually afford to print it out!
Bill
Listers- there's a special section/procedure for the non-clad
aluminum used in Zeniths. I'll forward the PDF to anyone who wants it.
28 pages.
do not archive
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Naumuk
To: zenith list
Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 7:50 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: 20 %meat, 80%BS
God forbid. I deserve 30 lashes with a wet noodle.
do not archive
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Naumuk
To: zenith list
Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 7:44 PM
Subject: 20 %meat, 80%BS
All-
The header says it all. The list has turned into a hen party
rather than a source of information.
===========
Message 10
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Try this
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: Robin Bellach
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 9:34 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: The book
I wants it!
Do not archive.
----- Original Message -----
From: David Downey
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 8:04 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: The book
do not list
I would appreciate the pages PDF'd Bill.
Bill Naumuk <naumuk@alltel.net> wrote:
Ron-
Thanks for providing me with the "Book" on Nuvite polishing.
Luckily, I got the last Samsung laser printer Staples had on sale
Black Friday for $40.00 and I can actually afford to print it out!
Bill
Listers- there's a special section/procedure for the non-clad
aluminum used in Zeniths. I'll forward the PDF to anyone who wants it.
28 pages.
do not archive
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Naumuk
To: zenith list
Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 7:50 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: 20 %meat, 80%BS
God forbid. I deserve 30 lashes with a wet noodle.
do not archive
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Naumuk
To: zenith list
Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 7:44 PM
Subject: 20 %meat, 80%BS
All-
The header says it all. The list has turned into a hen
party rather than a source of information.
www.aeroelectric.com Builder's Bookstore www.buildersbooks.com
Aeroware Enterprises www.kitlog.com
href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
ontribution Dralle, List Navigator Subscriptions page,
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List">http://www.matron
ics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List ===========
Message 11
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All-
I had some problems with my ISP yesterday,and they'll probably
continue. Alltel is now Windstream, and it's going to be a PIA until
they get their act together. Can't complain, though, I have super high
speed DSL for both Ma and me for less than $30.00 a month.
I forwarded the book to everyone that asked- don't know if it's the
same as available online, but I think it's more extensive. If anyone
didn't get a copy, let me know.
Headed out to do some dreaded Christmas shopping. Ho ho ho my ass!
More like a fight with little old ladies for a parking place. We've got
MEAN little old ladies aroung here!
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
Message 12
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| Subject: | Bushing material for 701s? |
The CH701 plans call for =BC=94 OD bushings with .028=94 walls that
cover AN3
bolts that hold the flaps and ailerons to the wings. The plans call for
=934130N tube=94. My kit did not include these bushings. I need to know
what
=934130N=94 is made of and where I can purchase a foot of this tubing.
Thanks for the help,
Les
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Bushing material for 701s? |
IApMZXMKIApZb3Ugc2hvdWxkIGhhdmUgcmVjZWl2ZWQgYSBsZW5ndGggb2YgYnVzaGluZyBt
YXRlcmlhbCwgSSB0aGluayBpdCB3YXMgYWJvdXQgIAoxMiIgbG9uZyBvciBzby4gWW91IG1h
eSBoYXZlIGl0IGJ1dCBkb24ndCB1bmRlcnN0YW5kIHdoYXQgaXQgaXMgZm9yLiBJZiB5b3Ug
IApkaWRuJ3QgcmVjZWl2ZSBpdCwganVzdCBsZXQgWmVuaXRoIGtub3cgYW5kIHRoZXkgd2ls
bCBzZW5kIHlvdSBvdXQgYSAgcGllY2UuCiAKQm9iIFNwdWRpcwpONzAxWlggIENINzAxLzkx
MlMKIAogCiAKSW4gYSBtZXNzYWdlIGRhdGVkIDEyLzkvMjAwNiAxMjoxMDowOSBQLk0uIEVh
c3Rlcm4gU3RhbmRhcmQgVGltZSwgIApsZ29sZEBxdWFudHVtLWFzc29jaWF0ZXMuY29tIHdy
aXRlczoKCiAKVGhlICBDSDcwMSBwbGFucyBjYWxsIGZvciDCvOKAnSBPRCBidXNoaW5ncyB3
aXRoIC4wMjjigJ0gd2FsbHMgdGhhdCBjb3ZlciBBTjMgIApib2x0cyB0aGF0IGhvbGQgdGhl
IGZsYXBzIGFuZCBhaWxlcm9ucyB0byB0aGUgd2luZ3MuIFRoZSBwbGFucyBjYWxsIGZvciDi
gJw0MTMwTiAgCnR1YmXigJ0uIE15IGtpdCBkaWQgbm90IGluY2x1ZGUgdGhlc2UgYnVzaGlu
Z3MuICBJIG5lZWQgdG8ga25vdyB3aGF0IOKAnDQxMzBO4oCdIGlzIAptYWRlIG9mIGFuZCB3
aGVyZSAgSSBjYW4gcHVyY2hhc2UgYSBmb290IG9mIHRoaXMgdHViaW5nLiAgIApUaGFua3Mg
Zm9yIHRoZSBoZWxwLCAKTGVzICAKCgoKCgogCg=
Message 14
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| Subject: | Fw: slat/vg experiment |
----- Original Message -----
From: Joe and Joan
Sent: Saturday, December 09, 2006 7:41 AM
Subject: Re: slat/vg experiment
Jim, I got my "feathers" from John Gilpin with Stolspeed. With his
directions they are very easy to install. Less than one day. My czech
701 has electric flaps and I land with them in 30 degree and 15 degree
take off. Still to windy for more accurate numbers, but take off
distance and landing distance is as good as before vg's. At 4900
actual rpm my indicated airspeed before was 83 mph with an actual gs of
85 mph (gps triangle test). Now it is a solid 86 mph indicated at 4900
rpm. At 45mph with 1/2 flaps my rate and angle of climb is better. I am
using actual distance and clearance at this point of testing as I have
only had time for 4 Top's. My prop is set so I can turn actual 5800
static RPM as I fly out of a 600 ft. field. The factory set prop gave me
at least 8 mph IAS more then I get now, but I bought the AC for it's
stol performance. I plan to remove the attachments for the slats after
complete testing. It does tend to yaw (I have always had a sticky
rudder) more, but it makes sense as 8 of these flat pieces of metal
sticking out forward in the wind would tend to hold any yaw longer. As
you can see, I'm very pleased with the results. Joe from FL-----
Original Message -----
From: jim wilson
To: jnjkimbell@HOTMAIL.COM
Sent: Friday, December 08, 2006 9:53 PM
Subject: slat/vg experiment
Hi Joe,
Congratulations on your test flying with vg's and w/o slats!!
Pretty interesting. I have a Czech built 701 and am nearing 100
hours. I was in touch with the fellow in Australia that sells the vg's.
Was wondering if everything was applicable as a lot of his experience
is with the Savannah.
How many degrees of flaps have you played with? (I only have one flap
position - that is 15*). The factory stopped building them with more
because too many guys were bending metal.
What set of vg's did you buy? Do you recommend them? Were they
difficult to install?
Sorry for all the questions?
Thanks for any information you care to share. I am very interested in
trying it as well. Were there any adverse affects or down side to all
of this?
Happy flying,
Jim Wilson
Portland, OR
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Forward Access skin. |
I put the flight instruments on a secondary panel, 40 thou, with thin
rubber washers to the main panel. Then strengthened the main panel with
a 25 thou L piece across the bottom as a doubler. So far I haven't lost
an instrument in 580 hrs.
Dave Austin 601HDS - 912, Spitfire Mk VIII
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Forward Access skin. |
Hi Ed,
Along with the mentioned stuff, you need to do the plumbing for
pitot/static air. I suspect we both forgot something or other that
connects to the instrument panel.
With the removable panel or panel sections you need to include a
whole bunch of extra wire and tubing. That makes for a cluttered
space and means you are carrying extra weight.
I don't know if a completely removable top skin or access plates in
that skin would be the better choice, but I think those choices seem
a lot better than moveable instruments and controls on the instrument panel.
Paul
XL fuselage
>
>As an alternative, has anybody figured a reasonably convenient way
>to make the just the instrument panel detachable? With 12 - 18
>inches of extra wire (bundled into a single cable or at most two or
>three cables) and with the throttle, carb heat and cabin heat
>disconnected, could one detach and displace (or even unplug and
>disconnect) the panel? Would that weaken the side to side
>reinforcement of the cockpit walls?
>
-
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Nose gear strut 601 |
the bushing is grabbing the strut. you need to grease it well. as weight is put
on it it losens its grip from the top. grease all friction points well with
a good lithium product.
Juan
-----Original Message-----
>From: Gig Giacona <wr.giacona@cox.net>
>Sent: Dec 8, 2006 5:35 PM
>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Nose gear strut 601
>
>
>That's strange. I got my engine mount installed and then put a chunk of concret
on it that mught weigh 60 or 70 lbs and while the pedals still are stiff i can
move them without too much force.
>
>Before the concrete I couldn't move them at all.
>
>
>ccwacker(at)HOTMAIL.COM wrote:
>> I was just thinkng about the same thing today. On mine the up down movement
>> is nill and I have my engine installed. The rudder pedals are also very
>> stiff.
>>
>> Is this normal until there is some flight/taxi time on the bird? I have
>> thought about opening up the bearings a little but really think that my be a
>> bad idea.
>>
>> Thoughts.
>>
>> Chuck Wacker
>> N601CW Quick Build
>>
>>
>>
>> > From: john butterfield
>> > To: Zenith-List Digest Server
>> > Subject: Nose gear strut 601
>> > Date: Fri, 8 Dec 2006 12:35:35 -0800 (PST)
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > hi list,
>> > i put the rubber band on the nose wheel strut, and am
>> > concerned about the stiffness of the up and down
>> > movement.
>> >
>> > it seems really tight, but that is without an engine
>> > on or even the engine mount.
>> >
>> > should you be able to depress the bungies by pressing
>> > down on the firewall? it moves a little, but i would
>> > have to exert extream pressure to get it to move a few
>> > inches. i assume that on landing, it will work
>> > properly, but if it should move fairly easy now, i
>> > would rather take it off now and open up the bearings
>> > a little. just don't have a feel on how loose it
>> > should be
>> >
>> > thanks in advance
>> > john butterfield
>> > 601XL corvair
>> > torrance, ca
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > Have a burning question?
>> > Go to www.Answers.yahoo.com and get answers from real people who know.
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
>
>--------
>W.R. "Gig" Giacona
>601XL Under Construction
>See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p249#80249
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Nose gear strut 601 |
as the rubber band losens the gear will flex more.
Juan
-----Original Message-----
>From: Charles Wacker <ccwacker@HOTMAIL.COM>
>Sent: Dec 8, 2006 5:10 PM
>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Nose gear strut 601
>
>
>I was just thinkng about the same thing today. On mine the up down movement
>is nill and I have my engine installed. The rudder pedals are also very
>stiff.
>
>Is this normal until there is some flight/taxi time on the bird? I have
>thought about opening up the bearings a little but really think that my be a
>bad idea.
>
>Thoughts.
>
>Chuck Wacker
>N601CW Quick Build
>
>
>>From: john butterfield <jdbutterfield@yahoo.com>
>>To: Zenith-List Digest Server <zenith-list-digest@matronics.com>
>>Subject: Zenith-List: Nose gear strut 601
>>Date: Fri, 8 Dec 2006 12:35:35 -0800 (PST)
>>
>><jdbutterfield@yahoo.com>
>>
>>hi list,
>>i put the rubber band on the nose wheel strut, and am
>>concerned about the stiffness of the up and down
>>movement.
>>
>>it seems really tight, but that is without an engine
>>on or even the engine mount.
>>
>>should you be able to depress the bungies by pressing
>>down on the firewall? it moves a little, but i would
>>have to exert extream pressure to get it to move a few
>>inches. i assume that on landing, it will work
>>properly, but if it should move fairly easy now, i
>>would rather take it off now and open up the bearings
>>a little. just don't have a feel on how loose it
>>should be
>>
>>thanks in advance
>>john butterfield
>>601XL corvair
>>torrance, ca
>>
>>
>>
>>Have a burning question?
>>Go to www.Answers.yahoo.com and get answers from real people who know.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>Talk now to your Hotmail contacts with Windows Live Messenger.
>
>
Message 19
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|
they have put VGs on 601. Check newsletter for 1996-1998. few articles on the
results. It seemed to do a good job of restricting the air from separating at
slow speeds, therefore decreasing stall speed at landing and takeoff.
Juan
Juan
-----Original Message-----
>From: Josh Olson <mrbizi@yahoo.com>
>Sent: Dec 8, 2006 1:49 PM
>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: Zenith-List: vg's
>
>
>Has anyone ever put VGs on the 601xl? How do those numbers compare?
>Thanks.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: "Joe and Joan" <jnjkimbell@hotmail.com>
>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>Sent: 12/8/06 11:30 AM
>Subject: Re: Zenith-List: vg's
>
>Jim, I got my ideas and vg's from the www.stolspeed.com site located in Australia. They have good numbers and what they say has certainly worked for me so far. Bad winds here so I hav'nt finised testing, but sure looks great so far. do not archive Joe
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Tebenkof@aol.com
> To: zenith-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Friday, December 08, 2006 10:43 AM
> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: vg's
>
>
> Joe,
>
> I have been off the list for a time. Is this VGs instead of slats an idea that
has been talked about some? Is there some reason to think VGs may be superior?
Your numbers are eagerly awaited.
>
> I have considered using VGs in additon to the slats on my 701 (not yet flying),
but had not considered eliminating the slats. Can you give me more info on
this idea?
>
> Jim Greenough
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Bushing material for 701s? |
It's just 1/4" OD structural steel tubing. If you didn't get any with
your kit, Zenith will probably Mail some out to you at no charge.
I've found a couple of things missing and had no problem getting them
from Zenigh like this.
On Dec 9, 2006, at 12:08 PM, Les Goldner wrote:
> The CH701 plans call for =BC=94 OD bushings with .028=94 walls that
cover
> AN3 bolts that hold the flaps and ailerons to the wings. The plans
> call for =934130N tube=94. My kit did not include these bushings. I
> need to know what =934130N=94 is made of and where I can purchase a
> foot of this tubing.
>
> Thanks for the help,
> Les
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
do not archive.
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Forward Access skin. |
I built my primary flight instruments (six-pack) into a removeable
sub-panel. I just have the pitot-static lines and a few power cables
for the gyros and panel lights, all with quick disconnects. I left
just enough extra to slide the panel out and disconnect them. I put a
sheet of .025 over the whole panel to stiffen it. I built the sub
panel for my six-pack out of the material used in the wing jig.
On Dec 9, 2006, at 10:49 AM, Edward Moody II wrote:
> As an alternative, has anybody figured a reasonably convenient way
> to make the just the instrument panel detachable? With 12 - 18
> inches of extra wire (bundled into a single cable or at most two or
> three cables) and with the throttle, carb heat and cabin heat
> disconnected, could one detach and displace (or even unplug and
> disconnect) the panel? Would that weaken the side to side
> reinforcement of the cockpit walls?
>
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Forward Access skin. |
I decided early that I did not want to work thru a Keyhole. To this end
:
The entire forward top skin on my 601XL is removable in about 5
minutes and 10 minutes to re attach.
I used # 8 machine screws and #8 floating nut plates with countersunk
rivets. This takes about 2 hours to set about 70-80 plates with a rivet
squeezer. I countersunk the top skin to recieve the screws. A cordless
drill set at low torque works very well to set and remove the top skin.
The Canopy is not removed when removing the skin.
This was a terrific advantage for all of the wiring, troubleshooting,
and design changes, plus access to rudder pedals, firewall piercings,
and plumbing.
It has been off at least 10 times during construction.
HOW I DID IT
Need Rivet Squeezer, with 3/32 100 degree and #8 screw dimple dies.
Drill pilot holes in top skin as though you will use rivets. These
will become the center hole for the nutplates. Use some forethought on
rivet hole placement to be sure that a nutplate will fit at that site.
(between flange fluting)
Use a full size nutplate without a floating center hole as a drill
guide while drilling the mounting holes. This insures that the mounting
holes are centered and spaced properly.
Remember the top skin has only a single dimpled center hole. The
bulkhead flange beneath has a dimpled center hole and two dimpled 3/32
rivet holes.
Use full size nutplates that have the dimpled mounting holes.
(MS21059-L08K)
Dimple the Top Skin Center hole and the lower flange Center Hole with
#8 screw dimple die & the squeezer. The bulkhead flange should not be
dimpled as deeply as the top skin or it will elevate the nutplate.
Use the 3/32 dimple die for the rivet holes in the flange portion
only.
Use AN426A-3-3 length soft rivets to mount the nutplates.
Pre-bend each nutplate slightly to fit the curvature of the bulkhead.
Draw up each nutplate tightly with a temporary center screw prior to
setting the side mounting rivets with the rivet squeezer.
Remove the restraining center screw and move on to the next.
You may need a few floating clip nuts to attach the top skin in the
region of the longerons (FCN832-43) and matching pan head machine screws
so you don't have to dimple your longerons. (avoid a possible
structural problem)
If you want a more subtle appearance it would probably work as well
with # 6 machine screws for the entire project.
I found everything at Wicks. I am pleased with the outcome.
I had a couple less than perfect nutplates that needed to be remounted
but that was easy to remedy.
Gary Ray
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Aileron stop |
hi there i am building the kit and this was there answer when i asked the same
question
still a bit confuesd
but hope it helps
Dear Mike,
We used 6B17-7CZ before and we used it as a stop plate for the aileron deflection
on the rear sheet of Torque Tube 6B17-4CZ. Now we rivet 6W10-4 directly on
the rear wing spar (left+right) and this part works as a stop plate for aileron.
Zodiac xl
fuse 50% rotax engine
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p439#80439
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: unbelievable! |
Your forgot one:
Most of them (with the exception of Britain ) are gone, at least as an empires.
Do not archive
William Dominguez
Don't feel too bad about it... You're mostly in fine company.
The Pharaohs of Egypt ( built the pyramids and civilized most of north
Africa)
Ancient Greece ( the idea of democracy )
Alexander the Great (United most of the known world)
The Roman Empire (United most of the known world)
The Chin Dynasty (China)
Great Britain
Many more.....
All of the above have changed history, arguably for the better.
All have been considered the greatest countries of their times.
All were not afraid to fight for what they thought was right.
All were from time to time wrong ( can't win 'em all )
All were disliked by their contemporaries.
P.S. For a small fee I can be bribed to say something really good!!! :-)
Noel
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Jari Kaija
> Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 8:07 AM
> To: zenith-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Zenith-List: Re: unbelievable!
>
>
>
>
>
> zodiacjeff(at)msn.com wrote:
> >
> >
> > No wonder some of the lurkers around the world think we're
> so arrogant in this country.
> >
> > Regards Jeff Small
> >
> >
>
>
>
> I think and I'm very sure, that you don't really want to
> know, what people around the world think about USA and it's
> citizens... It's not bed-time readable text at all. Sad but true.
>
> do not archive
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=79770#79770
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
---------------------------------
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: unbelievable! |
William-
I swore online that I wouldn't get into a political discussion
again, and I'll keep that promise. Please realize that the US is made up
of individuals that have the right to speak their own minds. Very, very
rarely do we all agree on anything, except for the fact that we wouldn't
have it any other way. I hope all international listers will come to
that conclusion from posts that cover the entire spectrum.
For me, I'll give up my polisher when they pry it from my dead, cold
fingers! (Which might not be long, considering the forecast and my rate
of progress!!)
do not archive
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: William Dominguez
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 12:55 PM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Re: unbelievable!
Your forgot one:
Most of them (with the exception of Britain ) are gone, at least as an
empires.
Do not archive
William Dominguez
Noel Loveys <noelloveys@yahoo.ca> wrote:
Don't feel too bad about it... You're mostly in fine company.
The Pharaohs of Egypt ( built the pyramids and civilized most of
north
Africa)
Ancient Greece ( the idea of democracy )
Alexander the Great (United most of the known world)
The Roman Empire (United most of the known world)
The Chin Dynasty (China)
Great Britain
Many more.....
All of the above have changed history, arguably for the better.
All have been considered the greatest countries of their times.
All were not afraid to fight for what they thought was right.
All were from time to time wrong ( can't win 'em all )
All were disliked by their contemporaries.
P.S. For a small fee I can be bribed to say something really good!!!
:-)
Noel
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Jari Kaija
> Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 8:07 AM
> To: zenith-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Zenith-List: Re: unbelievable!
>
>
>
>
>
> zodiacjeff(at)msn.com wrote:
> >
> >
> > No wonder some of the lurkers around the world think we're
> so arrogant in this country.
> >
> > Regards Jeff Small
> >
> >
>
>
>
> I think and
Message 26
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| Subject: | VG's on 701 Amphibian....First impression! |
Removed my Slats today and installed VG's on my 701SP on Czech 1200's with 912s
warp drive prop. First tests show 7 mph more speed at same RPM 5500 rpm 85
w/slats 92 w/vgs. (GPS speed 2 way run done 3 times) Trim no change.... More
stall tests tomorrow. But first impression was very little change in stall
speeds power off .....no brake. Power on good warning with buffet...clean brake...no
wing fall off. I have a set of slat's for sale! No change to prop pitch
yet and did not remove brackets....yet! No down side that I can see on a
Amphib. More later.
I'm grinning from ear to ear!!! Tom in Florida
Do not archive.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p453#80453
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Bushing material for 701s? |
all,
has anyone come up with a good way to cover the steering rods from venting into
the cockpit. I bought Cessna steeing boots however the angle is too steep.
Tryed CV boots from Honda, too big. Next I am trying fire wall blanket material.
Any one have thoughts. I just don't like breathing CO at altitude.
Juan
-----Original Message-----
>From: Bryan Martin <bryanmmartin@comcast.net>
>Sent: Dec 9, 2006 3:49 PM
>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Bushing material for 701s?
>
>It's just 1/4" OD structural steel tubing. If you didn't get any with
>your kit, Zenith will probably Mail some out to you at no charge.
>I've found a couple of things missing and had no problem getting them
>from Zenigh like this.
>
>
>On Dec 9, 2006, at 12:08 PM, Les Goldner wrote:
>
>> The CH701 plans call for ? OD bushings with .028? walls that cover
>> AN3 bolts that hold the flaps and ailerons to the wings. The plans
>> call for ?4130N tube?. My kit did not include these bushings. I
>> need to know what ?4130N? is made of and where I can purchase a
>> foot of this tubing.
>>
>> Thanks for the help,
>> Les
>--
>Bryan Martin
>N61BM, CH 601 XL,
>RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
>do not archive.
>
>
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: More flight testing |
Steve,
Here are some pictures:
http://mcgirt.net/~ars2006/ars2006/Desktop.html
Maybe next weekend I'll get some air to air pictures taken over the coast
as well. I joined up on one of the biplanes in the Texan today, and the customer
in the front seat got some amazing pictures of me and my customer flying
over the coastline with an awesome sun angle. I can't wait to see those pictures!
I have been flying the Texan for almost 2 years now, and don't have any
pictures of me flying it. It didn't happen if there isn't photographic proof,
right???
I just looked in my logbook, and I have 22 hours on the Zodie in the last
10 days, and 2 in the Texan. Damn, San Diego weather rocks!
R/
Brandon
---------------------------------
Any questions? Get answers on any topic at Yahoo! Answers. Try it now.
Message 29
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Just gotta share some cool pics of my freshly made rudder cap! Next cool pic is
my proud work on a flush gas cap! next is me and my favorite copilot..
Juan
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: cool pictures |
gotta love this rudder cap! made with half inch thick balsa, one layer thin fiber
glass and super fill to smooth.
Juan
Juan
-----Original Message-----
>From: Juan Vega <amyvega2005@earthlink.net>
>Sent: Dec 9, 2006 7:51 PM
>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Zenith-List: cool pictures
>
>
>Just gotta share some cool pics of my freshly made rudder cap! Next cool pic
is my proud work on a flush gas cap! next is me and my favorite copilot..
>
>Juan
Message 31
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|
I and others have used Yamaha boots, in 601's at least, not sure about
701's. Check the arhives.
Do not archive.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Juan Vega" <amyvega2005@earthlink.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 09, 2006 6:19 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Bushing material for 701s?
>
> all,
> has anyone come up with a good way to cover the steering rods from venting
> into the cockpit. I bought Cessna steeing boots however the angle is too
> steep. Tryed CV boots from Honda, too big. Next I am trying fire wall
> blanket material. Any one have thoughts. I just don't like breathing CO
> at altitude.
>
> Juan
>
> -----Original Message-----
>>From: Bryan Martin <bryanmmartin@comcast.net>
>>Sent: Dec 9, 2006 3:49 PM
>>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Bushing material for 701s?
>>
>>It's just 1/4" OD structural steel tubing. If you didn't get any with
>>your kit, Zenith will probably Mail some out to you at no charge.
>>I've found a couple of things missing and had no problem getting them
>>from Zenigh like this.
>>
>>
>>On Dec 9, 2006, at 12:08 PM, Les Goldner wrote:
>>
>>> The CH701 plans call for ? OD bushings with .028? walls that cover
>>> AN3 bolts that hold the flaps and ailerons to the wings. The plans
>>> call for ?4130N tube?. My kit did not include these bushings. I
>>> need to know what ?4130N? is made of and where I can purchase a
>>> foot of this tubing.
>>>
>>> Thanks for the help,
>>> Les
>>--
>>Bryan Martin
>>N61BM, CH 601 XL,
>>RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
>>do not archive.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Forward Access skin. |
Thanks for all the replies and ideas on removeable panel sections and
forward top skins. I still have some time left to cook all your ideas
down into a final decision. This is how the list is supposed to work....
let's keep that going.
Thanks again,
Ed
Do Not Archive
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: unbelievable! |
GOD BLESS AMERICA, (USA) she is still here !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!=0A=0A=0A---
-- Original Message ----=0AFrom: William Dominguez <bill_dom@yahoo.com>=0AT
o: zenith-list@matronics.com=0ASent: Thursday, December 7, 2006 12:55:54 PM
=0ASubject: RE: Zenith-List: Re: unbelievable!=0A=0AYour forgot one:=0A=0AM
ost of them (with the exception of Britain ) are gone, at least as an empir
es.=0A=0ADo not archive=0AWilliam Dominguez=0A=0A=0ANoel Loveys <noelloveys
Don't feel too bad about it... You're mostly in fine company.=0AThe Pharaoh
s of Egypt ( built the pyramids and civilized most of north=0AAfrica)=0AAnc
ient Greece ( the idea of democracy )=0AAlexander the Great (United most of
the known world)=0AThe Roman Empire (United most of the known world)=0AThe
Chin Dynasty (China)=0AGreat Britain=0AMany more.....=0A=0AAll of the abov
e have changed history, arguably for the better. =0A=0AAll have been consid
ered the greatest countries of their times. =0A=0AAll were not afraid to fi
ght for what they thought was right. =0A=0AAll were from time to time wrong
( can't win 'em all ) =0A=0AAll were disliked by their contemporaries.=0A
=0A=0AP.S. For a small fee I can be bribed to say something really good!!!
:-)=0ANoel=0A=0A=0A=0A> -----Original Message-----=0A> From: owner-zenith-l
ist-server@matronics.com =0A> [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.co
m] On Behalf Of =0A> Jari Kaija=0A> Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 8:07
AM=0A> To: zenith-list@matronics.com=0A> Subject: Zenith-List: Re: unbeliev
=0A> =0A> =0A> zodiacjeff(at)msn.com wrote:=0A> > =0A> > =0A> > No wonder s
ome of the lurkers around the world think we're =0A> so arrogant in this co
untry.=0A> > =0A> > Regards Jeff Small=0A> > =0A> > =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> I t
========0A=0A=0A =0A_________________________________________
___________________________________________=0AAny questions? Get answers on
any topic at www.Answers.yahoo.com. Try it now.
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: boots for 701s? |
craig Payne,
I bought the fire wall silicone material. Do you have pictures of your steering
bots you made?
Juan
-----Original Message-----
>From: Robin Bellach <601zv@ritternet.com>
>Sent: Dec 9, 2006 8:24 PM
>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Zenith-List: boots for 701s?
>
>
>I and others have used Yamaha boots, in 601's at least, not sure about
>701's. Check the arhives.
>
>Do not archive.
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Juan Vega" <amyvega2005@earthlink.net>
>To: <zenith-list@matronics.com>
>Sent: Saturday, December 09, 2006 6:19 PM
>Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Bushing material for 701s?
>
>
>>
>> all,
>> has anyone come up with a good way to cover the steering rods from venting
>> into the cockpit. I bought Cessna steeing boots however the angle is too
>> steep. Tryed CV boots from Honda, too big. Next I am trying fire wall
>> blanket material. Any one have thoughts. I just don't like breathing CO
>> at altitude.
>>
>> Juan
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>>>From: Bryan Martin <bryanmmartin@comcast.net>
>>>Sent: Dec 9, 2006 3:49 PM
>>>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>>>Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Bushing material for 701s?
>>>
>>>It's just 1/4" OD structural steel tubing. If you didn't get any with
>>>your kit, Zenith will probably Mail some out to you at no charge.
>>>I've found a couple of things missing and had no problem getting them
>>>from Zenigh like this.
>>>
>>>
>>>On Dec 9, 2006, at 12:08 PM, Les Goldner wrote:
>>>
>>>> The CH701 plans call for ? OD bushings with .028? walls that cover
>>>> AN3 bolts that hold the flaps and ailerons to the wings. The plans
>>>> call for ?4130N tube?. My kit did not include these bushings. I
>>>> need to know what ?4130N? is made of and where I can purchase a
>>>> foot of this tubing.
>>>>
>>>> Thanks for the help,
>>>> Les
>>>--
>>>Bryan Martin
>>>N61BM, CH 601 XL,
>>>RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
>>>do not archive.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: CH701 Power: Rotax or Jabiru |
Again the perennial question..redrive vs direct drive.. Is it really a requirement
to swing a large prop for 701 (non floats) at low speeds?
If so , why do some people comment that they fly behind direct drives no problem?
What is the ACTUAL difference in performance?
I'd like to use a Jabiru 2200 because I like the engine, and I think Rotax is really
taking advantage of their niche market price wise ! (It costs more for the
engine than the rest of the aircraft put together here in Aus !!)
Factual Information GREATLY appreciated !
Steve
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p485#80485
Message 36
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|
Hello, all
Has anybody considered a locking mechanism (for the wing lockers) similar to
the one in the attached drafts?
Comments, thoughts? Pictures??
Idle minds want to know... :-)
Happy building
Carlos
CH601-HD, Plans
Montreal, Canada
Message 37
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| Subject: | Bushing material for 701s? |
Have you looked at the various sliding shutter solutions depicted in the
list's photo archive. They are all from 601's but I think they are
applicable to the 701.
-- Craig
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: CH701 Power: Rotax or Jabiru |
Hi Steve,
I can't offer a factual argument that says you should use a Rotax or
Jabiru. I suppose both are quite popular, and both are likely to
provide you with a good experience.
I am building a CH601XL and plan to opt for the Jabiru 3300 rather
than the Rotax 912ULS. In this case the Jabiru offers considerably
more power than the Rotax. It also has less parts and systems to
break since it lacks the PSRU, oil cooler, and water cooling system
required on the Rotax. It also has one carburetor rather than two.
These issues are not even as clear on the 80 horsepower versions of
these products.
I don't think the propeller issue is all that important. It is
crucial that you select a proper propeller for the engine and speed
of your airplane. While there may be some efficiency differences
between a large propeller spinning slowly vs. a smaller propeller
spinning faster I believe you will get similar performance from you
plane with either choice.
In any case, I wish you good luck and many happy hours flying behind
which ever engine you choose. Both of these choices are new engines
designed (or at least offered) for use in aircraft. Either one will
probably do a lot better for you than any rebuilt automobile conversion.
Paul
XL fuselage
At 08:24 PM 12/9/2006, you wrote:
>
>Again the perennial question..redrive vs direct drive.. Is it really
>a requirement to swing a large prop for 701 (non floats) at low speeds?
>If so , why do some people comment that they fly behind direct
>drives no problem?
>What is the ACTUAL difference in performance?
>
>I'd like to use a Jabiru 2200 because I like the engine, and I think
>Rotax is really taking advantage of their niche market price wise !
>(It costs more for the engine than the rest of the aircraft put
>together here in Aus !!)
>
>Factual Information GREATLY appreciated !
>
>Steve
>
Message 39
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| Subject: | VG's on 701 Amphibian....First impression! |
Tom
Out of curiosity, what did you get in cruise when on wheels? I'd assume the 7mph
improvement might hold there as well, right?
Thanks, Josh
-----Original Message-----
From: "Avidmagnum" <classpix@sbcglobal.net>
Sent: 12/9/06 5:58 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: VG's on 701 Amphibian....First impression!
Removed my Slats today and installed VG's on my 701SP on Czech 1200's with 912s
warp drive prop. First tests show 7 mph more speed at same RPM 5500 rpm 85
w/slats 92 w/vgs. (GPS speed 2 way run done 3 times) Trim no change.... More
stall tests tomorrow. But first impression was very little change in stall
speeds power off .....no brake. Power on good warning with buffet...clean brake...no
wing fall off. I have a set of slat's for sale! No change to prop pitch
yet and did not remove brackets....yet! No down side that I can see on a
Amphib. More later.
I'm grinning from ear to ear!!! Tom in Florida
Do not archive.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p453#80453
Message 40
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|
| Subject: | Re: baggage locker |
Nice design, how much does it weigh?
--------
Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
Corvair Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p492#80492
Message 41
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>>> I bought the fire wall silicone material. Do you have pictures of your
steering bots you made?
Like many things they are not done yet. Heck, it has only been since mid
October :-)
-- Craig
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