Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:40 AM - Re: CH701 Power: Rotax or Jabiru (jetboy)
2. 04:45 AM - propellors (David Downey)
3. 04:49 AM - Re: baggage locker (Crvsecretary@aol.com)
4. 05:23 AM - Re: baggage locker (Robin Bellach)
5. 05:45 AM - baggage locker and what I'd do differently on a 601-HD (Michel Therrien)
6. 06:01 AM - To Bead or Not To Bead (Wade Jones)
7. 06:10 AM - Re: 912 Oil Leak (Jim Hoak)
8. 06:49 AM - Re: Re: CH701 Power: Rotax or Jabiru (MacDonald Doug)
9. 07:28 AM - Re: baggage locker (LarryMcFarland)
10. 08:29 AM - Re: Wing walk tread strip (Jim Hoak)
11. 09:35 AM - Re: To Bead or Not To Bead (Terry Turnquist)
12. 09:38 AM - Re: Wing walk tread strip (Clmelenyzeriv@cs.com)
13. 10:34 AM - Re: To Bead or Not To Bead (Wade Jones)
14. 10:48 AM - How to attach rudder question (LHusky@aol.com)
15. 10:50 AM - Re: vg's (Milburn Reed)
16. 11:34 AM - Re: How to attach rudder question (David Downey)
17. 12:08 PM - Re: To Bead or Not To Bead (Terry Turnquist)
18. 01:21 PM - Re: To Bead or Not To Bead (Wade Jones)
19. 02:30 PM - (Jaybannist@cs.com)
20. 03:11 PM - Dave's Brake (Wade Jones)
21. 03:21 PM - Re: How to attach rudder question (Bryan Martin)
22. 03:44 PM - Upholstry (Jaybannist@cs.com)
23. 03:54 PM - Re: (Bryan Martin)
24. 03:59 PM - Re: Upholstry (Bryan Martin)
25. 04:30 PM - int side panels (Jack Russell)
26. 04:59 PM - Re: How to attach rudder question (Al Young)
27. 06:10 PM - Re: How to attach rudder question (Husky Larry J)
28. 06:28 PM - Re: Pilot Test Game (Bob Miller)
29. 08:35 PM - Re: Upholstry (Peter Chapman)
30. 10:09 PM - Re: vg's (JohnDRead@aol.com)
31. 10:17 PM - Re: vg's (NYTerminat@aol.com)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: CH701 Power: Rotax or Jabiru |
Steve,
I went with the Jabiru 2200 the only other 701 I've been in was a 532
powered one - I will say its speeds and climb rate seem similar to mine. It was
960 lbs, I run the later 1100 lbs revision. I'm certain that an 80 hp Rotax
will do better except the compromise for complexity and cost. The 912S is harsh
on 701 airframes- make sure you build with the revised H Stab attach brackets.
I do like the new mounts offered attaching to the rear of the engine, that
may also help.
Before choosing, I ran many calculations and observations. You loose 5% or so to
a small dia prop. The other problem will be weight and cooling. The 2200 gets
along fine I would not like to repeat the excersise with a 3300, corvair or
geared air cooled engine because of those issues. Theres a geared VW due up north
soon and I'm waiting to hear if alls OK.
I would accept a new (current build) 2200 or used / new 80 hp 912 on my aircraft.
I would rather run a small rotary there was nothing available.
Actual figures are cruise @ 2900 rpm 63 KTs Max speed 70 KTs climb 1 up 400 -
800 fpm 2 up full load 200 - 400 fpm no stupid comments please a 701 is landing
limited and takoff distances are much shorter as advertised. I have not had
opportunity to test props etc. also my airspeed is with a static vent not factory
specs which are without.
Ralph /
--------
Ralph - CH701 / 2200a
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p494#80494
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
As a general rule of thumb, larger diameter is better for static thrust and therefore
climb; smaller diameter props are more efficient at speed. The choice is
predicated on the application - the dirtier and slower a design is the better
the performance as the diameter goes up.
Dave Downey
Harleysville (SE) PA
__________________________________________________
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: baggage locker |
Hello Carlos:
Only one thought comes to mind: the alignment of all those locking pins
simultaneously while pushing down and turning the lock handle might be tough to
engineer to work properly. As I recall the baggage locker cover is not flat,
so all that all those sliding locking pin assemblies will have to be curved
as well. Certainly not impossible, but all these things add weight as well as
convenience.
The locking pins will have to be self-aligning while still providing enough
push to secure the cover. I'm thinking more of a 'sliding wedge" design
pushing individually spring-loaded locking pins - accomplishing this on three
sides simultaneously with one rotating handle will require some exciting linkage!
Just my two cents worth.
Tracy Smith
N458XL (reserved)
Naugatuck, CT
In a message dated 12/10/2006 12:36:57 AM Eastern Standard Time,
carlossa52@gmail.com writes:
Hello, all
Has anybody considered a locking mechanism (for the wing lockers) similar to
the one in the attached drafts?
Comments, thoughts? Pictures??
Idle minds want to know... :-)
Happy building
Carlos
CH601-HD, Plans
Montreal, Canada
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: baggage locker |
Maybe I'm missing something here, but that looks like a latching
mechanism. If it's a locking mechanism where do you insert the key or
enter the combination or speak the secret open sesme words?
Do not archive.
----- Original Message -----
From: Crvsecretary@aol.com
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 6:48 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: baggage locker
Hello Carlos:
Only one thought comes to mind: the alignment of all those locking
pins simultaneously while pushing down and turning the lock handle might
be tough to engineer to work properly. As I recall the baggage locker
cover is not flat, so all that all those sliding locking pin assemblies
will have to be curved as well. Certainly not impossible, but all these
things add weight as well as convenience.
The locking pins will have to be self-aligning while still providing
enough push to secure the cover. I'm thinking more of a 'sliding wedge"
design pushing individually spring-loaded locking pins - accomplishing
this on three sides simultaneously with one rotating handle will require
some exciting linkage!
Just my two cents worth.
Tracy Smith
N458XL (reserved)
Naugatuck, CT
In a message dated 12/10/2006 12:36:57 AM Eastern Standard Time,
carlossa52@gmail.com writes:
Hello, all
Has anybody considered a locking mechanism (for the wing lockers)
similar to the one in the attached drafts?
Comments, thoughts? Pictures??
Idle minds want to know... :-)
Happy building
Carlos
CH601-HD, Plans
Montreal, Canada
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | baggage locker and what I'd do differently on a 601-HD |
Good morning Carlos and everyone!
This looks like a really good design. This said, when
I saw it, I couls see how it would be nice on an
airliner... This said, I would like to bring a point
here.
We may design our plane like a airliner; it will be as
good as an airliner, it will never look like an
airliner, but it may weight like an airliner. At the
beginning of one of Bingelis's book is the most
important chapter and text. I did not read it enough,
because it contained no information about fabricating
parts or assemblies. That text was trying to
sensibilize us on not adding stuff to increase weight.
In the end, I made a good plane... but it weights 800
lbs empty, with no paint yet. If I'd do it again,
there are a few things I would left aside or that I
would consider doing otherwise.
I wrote a few things on what I'd do differently next
time at the bottom of this page:
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601/chconstpages.htm
I think I could make the list more complete (like
lighter and better landing lights.
This said, the things I really do not regret is
reinforcing the baggage compartment forward edge,
reinforcing the baggage compartment top skin,
reinforcing the fuselage fairings, thicker rear
fuselage top skin (0.020"). I would also go for
0.020" wing top skins if I'd do it again. At one
time, I thought I'd like dual sticks... then, I made
my stick so it could be transformed into a single
handle stick. I ended up liking that Y stick and I'm
glad it is there.
One funny thing... I said on my web site that if I'd
do it again, I'd go for the recommended engine...
well, I'm going to install a new engine soon and I
will be going experimental again! I'm presently
working on the engine mount for my new Franklin
A4-235-B31 that will provide me with more HP for
similar weight. And more durable/reliable HPs?
Michel
--- Carlos Sa <carlossa52@gmail.com> wrote:
> Hello, all
>
>
> Has anybody considered a locking mechanism (for the
> wing lockers) similar to
> the one in the attached drafts?
> Comments, thoughts? Pictures??
>
> Idle minds want to know... :-)
>
>
> Happy building
>
> Carlos
> CH601-HD, Plans
> Montreal, Canada
>
----------------------------
Michel Therrien CH601-HD, C-GZGQ
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/mthobby
http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
__________________________________________________
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | To Bead or Not To Bead |
Hello Group ,Fast Question .Should I roll the fuel tank beads before
bending or after bending . Thanks Wade
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: 912 Oil Leak |
John,
There are several possible sources for the oil leak on your 912. Earlier
this year I removed my gearbox and sent it to Lockwood for overhaul ( 500
hours as suggested by Phil Lockwood ) and had a minor leak when I
reinstalled the gearbox. It uses a sealant not a gasket at the mating
surface. I tried just retorqueing the bolts but that didn't fix it. Be
carefull not to overtorque the bolts. I had to remove it, clean up the
mating surfaces and reinstall it with more and better applied sealant (
$10.00 per tube - one application ). I had also removed the fuel pump, it
has a gasket under it - just make sure the nuts are tight. The most
expensive potential source of your leak would be the prop shaft bearing seal
in the front end of the gearbox. That would require complete disassembly of
the gearbox after removing it from the engine.
You might give Phil, Kerry or Shane at Lockwood a call and see if they have
any suggestions on how to isolate the source of the leak.
Jim Hoak 601HD - 912UL - 535 hrs
----- Original Message -----
From: "john H" <professor71@hotmail.com>
Sent: Monday, December 04, 2006 11:55 PM
Subject: [Norton AntiSpam] Zenith-List: 912 Oil Leak
>
> Hi List
> I have a very small oil leak on a 912 (200hrs) which is aggravating the
> heck out of me. After flying I have a little oil showing up around the
> fuel pump, around the gear box and blowing back on the battery box on the
> firewall. I just can't seem to find the leak. Oil pressure is fine. Any
> ideas anyone??
> Thanks
> John
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Stay up-to-date with your friends through the Windows Live Spaces friends
> list.
>
>
>
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: CH701 Power: Rotax or Jabiru |
Steve, I cannot offer any real performance numbers at
this time because I am still building. I'll be
joining the front and back halves of the fuselage
sometime this week.
I've chosen the 912 UL for my plane. I stumbled
across a deal that was too good to pass up otherwise
I'd have gone for the 912ULS. Another builder in my
area is going Jabiru because of the price difference
and he likes what he has seen so far of them. Once we
have our aircraft flying, you can guarantee there will
be some head to head comparisons done.
I'm in Canada and CAN-ZAC recommended that I stay away
from the Jabiru for the 701. They said if I were
building a 601, the 3300 is an excellent engine but
for the 701 you really need the longer prop. Another
deciding factor is that I will likely end up on floats
at some point since I live in an area with so many
lakes to land in.
I guess it comes down to personal choices. As someone
else mentioned, if you do decide to go with the
Jabiru, optimizing the propeller is extremely
important.
Good luck with your building
do not archive
Doug MacDonald
Northwest Ontario, Canada
Cheap talk?
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: baggage locker |
Carlos,
What comes to mind is the door of a safe. This mechanism is favored by
people who have to secure a
solid door and weight is not a consideration. At the other side of the
equation you might just consider
Velcro. Dzus fasteners work really well and are especially light for
the kind of security they offer.
They are also really easy to install.
Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
do not archive
Carlos Sa wrote:
> Hello, all
>
>
> Has anybody considered a locking mechanism (for the wing lockers)
> similar to the one in the attached drafts?
> Comments, thoughts? Pictures??
>
> Idle minds want to know... :-)
>
>
> Happy building
>
> Carlos
> CH601-HD, Plans
> Montreal, Canada
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Wing walk tread strip |
Larry and listers,
You may not like my alternative to the gritty stuff most folks put on their
wings for the "wing walk" area. I've been in the indusrty for many years and
never saw a system or material that looked good and held up well.
My answer was to not apply anything! What I use is a piece of that rubber
waffle weave looking shelving material or tool box drawer liner. I just keep
it stored ( rolled up ) just behind the seat. When I open the canopy, I just
grab it, roll it out on the wing ( either left or right side as needed ) and
it does the job nicely - even on a wet wing ( it doesn't slip it just
grabs ). It has never failed me yet in ten years. Simple and the wing is
CLEAN!
The only draw back was once I forgot to put the piece of material back in
the airplane before starting the engine. Blew it away! I now have an item on
my checklist ( stow wing walk material ) Have never done it again!
Like I said this system won't be for everyone but it works for me.
do not archive
Jim Hoak
----- Original Message -----
From: "LarryMcFarland" <larry@macsmachine.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 05, 2006 8:14 PM
Subject: [Norton AntiSpam] Zenith-List: Wing walk tread strip
>
> Hi guys,
> I'm looking at a roll of adhesive backed tread strip that has to be cut to
> three pieces
> to fit my wing walks and grumbling about how grossly coarse the grit is
> and wishing
> there were a better alternative. The black looks correct, but I've
> concerns about it staying
> where it is put and the grit coming loose. I should have purchased it
> this week instead of
> 3 years ago and now have doubts about its adhesive as well.
>
> Does anyone have a tread strip that they're happy with? Something that
> once on has had
> no qualms about it being too rough or hard to keep its shape year after
> year. I'd like to hear
> from anyone who's applied it and feel they've purchased the right stuff.
>
> Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
>
>
>
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: To Bead or Not To Bead |
Bead before bending! I've done it both ways.
Terry Turnquist
601 XL Plans
St. peters, MO
Wade Jones <waj@quik.com> wrote:
Hello Group ,Fast Question .Should I roll the fuel tank beads before
bending or after bending . Thanks Wade
---------------------------------
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Wing walk tread strip |
Jim,
>From the looks standpoint you can get clear tread that is adhesive backed with
grit on top. I have a friend that installed it on his RV and it doesn't detract
from the paint scheme. I think his source was either Wicks or Aircraft Spruce.
C. L.
Do Not Archive
"Jim Hoak" <planejim@bellsouth.net> wrote:
>
>Larry and listers,
>
>You may not like my alternative to the gritty stuff most folks put on their
>wings for the "wing walk" area. I've been in the indusrty for many years and
>never saw a system or material that looked good and held up well.
>
>My answer was to not apply anything! What I use is a piece of that rubber
>waffle weave looking shelving material or tool box drawer liner. I just keep
>it stored ( rolled up ) just behind the seat. When I open the canopy, I just
>grab it, roll it out on the wing ( either left or right side as needed ) and
>it does the job nicely - even on a wet wing ( it doesn't slip it just
>grabs ). It has never failed me yet in ten years. Simple and the wing is
>CLEAN!
>
>The only draw back was once I forgot to put the piece of material back in
>the airplane before starting the engine. Blew it away! I now have an item on
>my checklist ( stow wing walk material ) Have never done it again!
>
>Like I said this system won't be for everyone but it works for me.
>
>do not archive
>
>Jim Hoak
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "LarryMcFarland" <larry@macsmachine.com>
>To: <zenith-list@matronics.com>
>Sent: Tuesday, December 05, 2006 8:14 PM
>Subject: [Norton AntiSpam] Zenith-List: Wing walk tread strip
>
>
>>
>> Hi guys,
>> I'm looking at a roll of adhesive backed tread strip that has to be cut to
>> three pieces
>> to fit my wing walks and grumbling about how grossly coarse the grit is
>> and wishing
>> there were a better alternative. The black looks correct, but I've
>> concerns about it staying
>> where it is put and the grit coming loose. I should have purchased it
>> this week instead of
>> 3 years ago and now have doubts about its adhesive as well.
>>
>> Does anyone have a tread strip that they're happy with? Something that
>> once on has had
>> no qualms about it being too rough or hard to keep its shape year after
>> year. I'd like to hear
>> from anyone who's applied it and feel they've purchased the right stuff.
>>
>> Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: To Bead or Not To Bead |
Thanks Terry ,but your post did not come through . Wade
DO NOT ARCHIVE
----- Original Message -----
From: Terry Turnquist
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 11:33 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: To Bead or Not To Bead
Bead before bending! I've done it both ways.
Terry Turnquist
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | How to attach rudder question |
OK, It is time to attach my rudder. On 6T5-3, I reamed the hole out and
inserted the lower rudder bushing. I then placed 6T5-3 and the bushing between
6B2-4 and 6B2-6. I placed an AN3-6A bolt through and it looks ok. My
question is for the top. The plans are not clear to me. If I am reading the
plans
right, I will ream out 6B2-7 and place the bushing in this piece. Then I
will place 6T4-3 on the top and bottom of the bushing and put an AN3-6A bolt in
it. I have done this and it really looks like a lot of empty space between
the 2 6T4-3 pieces. I just want to confirm before I place them on the rudder
and drill. Also, once the rudder is in place, I noticed that the rudder is
wider than the back of the fuse. I measured everything again and everything
looks right. Is this normal? I thought that it would be more flush with the
rear of the fuse. I guess that this is why they have 6T5-4 acting as a
fairing. Any input will be great.
Larry Husky
Lakeview, OR
Hanging Rudder
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Jim
I too am building a ch 701 and curious about VG's.
Speculating one might expect the VG's to slow the stall speed at lower
angles of attack, at higher angles when slats are operating would the
presents of VG's have an effect? Who has a wind tunnel? --- any test
pilots out there?
Mil
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: How to attach rudder question |
I noticed that the ailerons are about 1/4" thicker than the wing forwad of them.
Maybe this is to enhance control response? I know that htinner surfaces reduce
sensitivity - build in a dead-band...
LHusky@aol.com wrote: OK, It is time to attach my rudder. On 6T5-3, I reamed
the hole out and inserted the lower rudder bushing. I then placed 6T5-3 and
the bushing between 6B2-4 and 6B2-6. I placed an AN3-6A bolt through and it
looks ok. My question is for the top. The plans are not clear to me. If I
am reading the plans right, I will ream out 6B2-7 and place the bushing in this
piece. Then I will place 6T4-3 on the top and bottom of the bushing and put
an AN3-6A bolt in it. I have done this and it really looks like a lot of empty
space between the 2 6T4-3 pieces. I just want to confirm before I place them
on the rudder and drill. Also, once the rudder is in place, I noticed that
the rudder is wider than the back of the fuse. I measured everything again and
everything looks right. Is this normal? I thought that it would be more flush
with the rear of the fuse. I guess that this is why they have 6T5-4 acting
as a fairing. Any input will be great.
Larry Husky
Lakeview, OR
Hanging Rudder
Dave Downey
Harleysville (SE) PA
__________________________________________________
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: To Bead or Not To Bead |
I've done it both ways and you should bead before bending..much easier.
Terry Turnquist
601XL-Plans
St. Peters, MO
Wade Jones <waj@quik.com> wrote:
Thanks Terry ,but your post did not come through . Wade
DO NOT ARCHIVE
----- Original Message -----
From: Terry Turnquist
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 11:33 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: To Bead or Not To Bead
Bead before bending! I've done it both ways.
Terry Turnquist
href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com href="http://www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.com href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List">http://www.matron
---------------------------------
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: To Bead or Not To Bead |
Thanks Terry , that's what I will do . Wade
DO NOT ARCHIVE
----- Original Message -----
From: Terry Turnquist
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 2:07 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: To Bead or Not To Bead
I've done it both ways and you should bead before bending..much
easier.
Terry Turnquist
601XL-Plans
St. Peters, MO
Wade Jones <waj@quik.com> wrote:
Thanks Terry ,but your post did not come through . Wade
DO NOT ARCHIVE
----- Original Message -----
From: Terry Turnquist
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 11:33 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: To Bead or Not To Bead
Message 19
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
I am in the process of fabricating seats for my 601XL. Looking ahead, what are
you builders using for the base material for the interior side panels?
Jay in Dallas
Message 20
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Hello Group ,Thanks for all the responses on my fuel tank fabrication .I
bent one of the tank skins .040 5052 today and had good results with the
brake I built from Dave Clay's design .I highly recommend this sheet
metal brake design as I have built most of my parts using it ,Thanks
Dave. Wade
Message 21
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: How to attach rudder question |
That's to help keep the flow attached to the surface of the aileron.
The flow will detach from the trailing edge of the lower surface of
the wing and then jump the gap and hit the leading edge of the
aileron and reattach. If the aileron were thinner the detached flow
might miss it's leadiing edge and stay detached which would reduce
the effectiveness of the control surface. This is the explanation for
the thicker flaps that Chris used to give in his seminars at Oshkosh.
On Dec 10, 2006, at 2:32 PM, David Downey wrote:
> I noticed that the ailerons are about 1/4" thicker than the wing
> forwad of them. Maybe this is to enhance control response? I know
> that htinner surfaces reduce sensitivity - build in a dead-band...
>
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
Message 22
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Sorry 'bout that! I neglected to give my post a subject line. I still want to
know what you builders are using for the interior side panels.
Jay in Dallas, 601XL
Message 23
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
I used some stuff I got from JC Whitney. It's used under carpeting on
the floorboards of cars. I bought it for the floor of the cabin and
interior firewall surface but I had so much of it, I used for the
side panels also. It's basically shredded rags treated with fire
retardant and covered on one side with aluminum foil. It's about a
half inch thick. I glued this stuff on and covered it with leather.
I've also seen some air duct insulation at the local builder supply.
Half inch fiber glass wool with a layer of aluminum foil on one side.
This stuff is lighter than the stuff I used but you would have to
make sure to seal it up real well or you would have problems with
getting the itchy fiber glass all over the place. Cardboard wrapped
in upholstery would probably work OK, anything to keep from being in
direct contact with the bare metal, especially in cold weather.
On Dec 10, 2006, at 5:29 PM, Jaybannist@cs.com wrote:
>
> I am in the process of fabricating seats for my 601XL. Looking
> ahead, what are you builders using for the base material for the
> interior side panels?
>
> Jay in Dallas
>
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
Message 24
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
I used leather because of its fire resistance and it won't melt like
vinyl. I bought a hide from an Ebay auction. I used fire resistant
materials as much as possible and tried not to use anything that
would emit toxic vapors if it burned.
>
> Sorry 'bout that! I neglected to give my post a subject line. I
> still want to know what you builders are using for the interior
> side panels.
>
> Jay in Dallas, 601XL
>
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
Message 25
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Jay; I just used alum and glued the carpet on and direct to the fuse in other places.
worked well. Jack
Jack Russell -Clovis CA
601 XL Jabiru 3300
Progress update at:
http://www.geocities.com/clojan@sbcglobal.net/zodiacbarn.html
Message 26
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: How to attach rudder question |
Larry- The space between the 6F4-3 and 6T4-3 is dictated by the length
of the bushing 6B2-8. 6B2-8 should be just a bit longer than the
thickness of 6B2-7. This "bit" is to make sure the rudder moves freely.
If your bushing 6B2-8 is longer I'd file it down to the length needed.
(On my plans (12/01) I have 1- 6F4-3 and 1-6T4-3 rather than 2-6T4-3s).
Regards,
Al Young
N-601AY
----- Original Message -----
From: LHusky@aol.com
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 12:47 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: How to attach rudder question
OK, It is time to attach my rudder. On 6T5-3, I reamed the hole out
and inserted the lower rudder bushing. I then placed 6T5-3 and the
bushing between 6B2-4 and 6B2-6. I placed an AN3-6A bolt through and it
looks ok. My question is for the top. The plans are not clear to me.
If I am reading the plans right, I will ream out 6B2-7 and place the
bushing in this piece. Then I will place 6T4-3 on the top and bottom of
the bushing and put an AN3-6A bolt in it. I have done this and it really
looks like a lot of empty space between the 2 6T4-3 pieces. I just want
to confirm before I place them on the rudder and drill. Also, once the
rudder is in place, I noticed that the rudder is wider than the back of
the fuse. I measured everything again and everything looks right. Is
this normal? I thought that it would be more flush with the rear of the
fuse. I guess that this is why they have 6T5-4 acting as a fairing.
Any input will be great.
Larry Husky
Lakeview, OR
Hanging Rudder
Message 27
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | How to attach rudder question |
The plans call for a 10 mm bushing and that is what I have, but it just
seems that there is at least 3 mm clearance on each side. Just seems
like a lot and I wonder if I could maybe cut this down to 8 mm without
any problems. Thanks for the reply.
Larry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Al Young
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 4:59 PM
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: How to attach rudder question
Larry- The space between the 6F4-3 and 6T4-3 is dictated by the
length of the bushing 6B2-8. 6B2-8 should be just a bit longer than the
thickness of 6B2-7. This "bit" is to make sure the rudder moves freely.
If your bushing 6B2-8 is longer I'd file it down to the length needed.
(On my plans (12/01) I have 1- 6F4-3 and 1-6T4-3 rather than 2-6T4-3s).
Regards,
Al Young
N-601AY
----- Original Message -----
From: LHusky@aol.com
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 12:47 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: How to attach rudder question
OK, It is time to attach my rudder. On 6T5-3, I reamed
the hole out and inserted the lower rudder bushing. I then placed 6T5-3
and the bushing between 6B2-4 and 6B2-6. I placed an AN3-6A bolt
through and it looks ok. My question is for the top. The plans are not
clear to me. If I am reading the plans right, I will ream out 6B2-7 and
place the bushing in this piece. Then I will place 6T4-3 on the top and
bottom of the bushing and put an AN3-6A bolt in it. I have done this and
it really looks like a lot of empty space between the 2 6T4-3 pieces. I
just want to confirm before I place them on the rudder and drill. Also,
once the rudder is in place, I noticed that the rudder is wider than the
back of the fuse. I measured everything again and everything looks
right. Is this normal? I thought that it would be more flush with the
rear of the fuse. I guess that this is why they have 6T5-4 acting as a
fairing. Any input will be great.
Larry Husky
Lakeview, OR
Hanging Rudder
href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com
href="http://www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.com
href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
h
ref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List">http://www.matron
Message 28
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Pilot Test Game |
Thanks again, Jim. I do remember him sending that info, but darned if
I can find it. I don't have room enough to put nut plates on the
vertical landing gear supports, but your idea sounds like it would
work. And I've got a way that I think will work easily to compress
the bungees, so i won't need to bug Gary again. And hey, by the way,
I'm still just two or three months from being finished! Am working
on some headrests, which seem to be very important for safety in a
crash according to one of the seminars I attended at Sun'nFun, as they
prevent the whiplash that apparently causes most of the severe neck
injuries in crashes. Then it's wiring, and installling the landing
gear that is being welded in a shop here. So maybe this thing
actually will fly one of these days before I'm to senile to follow a
checklist.
I hope you had a good hunt,
Bob
On 12/8/06, Jim Hoak <planejim@bellsouth.net> wrote:
>
> Bob,
>
> Sorry for not answering sooner. Been out hunting and visiting my brother in
> Fla. As for the Article on my fix for making the installation of the main
> gear legs, I had Gary Boothe from Calif. send it to you. I didn't send it
> myself. I haven't mastered copying actual pages and then sending them out as
> a file. Gary was kind enough to do that for me. He sent them to you and
> several other folks at my request. If I remember correctly is was Issue # 96
> of the Zenair Newsletter back in 1996. Please contact Gary at
> gboothe@calply.com I'm sure he will be glad to send it to you again - you
> can mention that I suggested you contact him. The process I used was simply
> attaching some nutplates ( which line up with the holes in the steel gear
> fittings ) to aluminun strips ( with flush 3/32" rivets ) and then riveting
> the strips with a couple of flush rivets to the vertical landing gear
> supports. This has come in handy while modifying the main gear and replacing
> the bungees.
>
> Jim Hoak
> ----- Original Message -----
> Wrom: BDXRQBGJSNBOHMKHJYFMYXOEAIJJPHSCR
> To: <zenith-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 9:20 AM
> Subject: Zenith-List: Pilot Test Game
>
>
> >
> > Here's a crazy-making game to sharpen your situational awareness while
> > stuck in the shop.
> >
> > "It is said"... that Air Force pilots can keep the game going for two
> > minutes, but 18 seconds is quite respectable.
> >
> > http://members.iinet.net.au/~pontipak/redsquare.html
> >
> >
> > Do Not Archive
> >
> > --
> > Bob Miller
> > 601HD N722Z
> > Charlottesville, Virginia
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
--
Bob Miller
601HD N722Z
Charlottesville, Virginia
Message 29
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
At 18:43 10-12-06, you wrote:
> I still want to know what you builders are using for the interior
> side panels.
Just some ideas:
I used the same fabric as on the seats (somewhat fire-retardent). For
the panels right next to the seats, I glued the fabric over the face
and edges of plasticor panels (corrugated plastic). Sized correctly,
they would just snap or tuck into place. Looks good, since there's a
little thickness to the panels. Provides a little insulation and also
something other than a hard cabin sidewall for one's elbows.
On the walls next to one's shins, the same could have been done, but
I just had the fabric glued to the wall. Although simpler in that
way, I did build in map pockets. Very convenient to have a pocket there.
I think holes in the root ribs, holes in the front of the spar, etc.,
were covered with glued-on vapour-barrier plastic sheeting first, to
keep drafts out.
For the next 'bay' forward, under the panel to the firewall (and on
the firewall itself), my dad found some sort of light
fibreglass-based mat. Whatever the merits of the specific material,
again it was an attempt to add a little sound and temperature
insulation, but having it more fire resistant up front. In some areas
where one might damage the material with one's feet, .016 sheet
covered the mats and was held in place basically by pinning it in
place through holes made in any L-angles in the area.
Peter Chapman
Toronto, ON 601 HDS / 912 / C-GZDC
Message 30
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Hi Mil:
Build it like the plans. The 701 is a well thought out design
and the VGs will not improve the plane. The folk messing with slat removal have
not the faintest idea of what they are doing from an aerodynamic sense! The
removal of the slats compromises the airfoil significantly. The slat is NOT
an addition to the airfoil rather the slot is a "tunnel" through the airfoil
that improves the lift coefficient of the airfoil. The increase in drag is
minimal because when the plane is not at a high angle of attack there is little
or no flow through the slot. Theory of Wing Sections by Abbot and Von
Doenhoff describes how a slot improves the lift coefficient. VGs do not improve
lift
coefficient what they do do is to make a poor airfoil work a little better
by making the boundary layer stick to the airfoil a little further back on the
wing.
The gents in Australia who stared this mess should make a call to Martin
Simons who is an Aeronautical Prof. at the University of Aukland he will
help them understand.
Regards, John Read
CH701 in Colorado
Message 31
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
John,
There are getting to be too many flying without the slats to say that it
will not work!!!
Bob Spudis
N701ZX CH701/912S, may have to try it myself
In a message dated 12/11/2006 1:10:47 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
JohnDRead@aol.com writes:
Hi Mil:
Build it like the plans. The 701 is a well thought out design
and the VGs will not improve the plane. The folk messing with slat removal have
not the faintest idea of what they are doing from an aerodynamic sense! The
removal of the slats compromises the airfoil significantly. The slat is NOT
an addition to the airfoil rather the slot is a "tunnel" through the airfoil
that improves the lift coefficient of the airfoil. The increase in drag is
minimal because when the plane is not at a high angle of attack there is little
or no flow through the slot. Theory of Wing Sections by Abbot and Von
Doenhoff describes how a slot improves the lift coefficient. VGs do not improve
lift coefficient what they do do is to make a poor airfoil work a little better
by making the boundary layer stick to the airfoil a little further back on
the wing.
The gents in Australia who stared this mess should make a call to Martin
Simons who is an Aeronautical Prof. at the University of Aukland he will
help them understand.
Regards, John Read
CH701 in Colorado
(http://www.buildersbooks.com/)
(http://www.homebuilthelp.com/)
(http://www.matronics.com/contribution)
(http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List)
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|