Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:46 AM - The Puzzle of the Yellow Fuel (Frank Derfler)
2. 05:30 AM - Re: Pulling Stainless Steel Rivets? (Clyde Barcus)
3. 05:42 AM - Re: Pulling Stainless Steel Rivets? (Terry Turnquist)
4. 06:30 AM - Re: Pulling Stainless Steel Rivets? (Juan Vega)
5. 06:32 AM - Re: The Puzzle of the Yellow Fuel (Juan Vega)
6. 06:37 AM - Re: Landing Lights (Paul Mulwitz)
7. 06:39 AM - Re: Re:Storage of components (Juan Vega)
8. 06:41 AM - Re: Pulling Stainless Steel Rivets? (Robin Bellach)
9. 06:45 AM - Re: Pulling Stainless Steel Rivets? (Edward Moody II)
10. 06:48 AM - Re: The Puzzle of the Yellow Fuel (Edward Moody II)
11. 06:49 AM - Re: propellors (Paul Mulwitz)
12. 07:05 AM - Re: Re: vg's (Noel Loveys)
13. 07:10 AM - FAR quesion on major mod (PHFD400@aol.com)
14. 07:10 AM - Re: Landing Lights (Bryan Martin)
15. 07:27 AM - Re: Pulling Stainless Steel Rivets? (PatrickW)
16. 08:28 AM - 701 slats needed (ricklach)
17. 08:34 AM - 701 tooling (ricklach)
18. 08:38 AM - Re: Pulling Stainless Steel Rivets? (Tim Juhl)
19. 09:13 AM - Re: Storage of components (Bill Naumuk)
20. 09:16 AM - Re: Tools (Bill Naumuk)
21. 10:34 AM - Re: FAR quesion on major mod (n282rs@earthlink.net)
22. 10:59 AM - Re: The Puzzle of the Yellow Fuel (JOHN STARN)
23. 11:04 AM - Re: propellors ()
24. 11:59 AM - ()
25. 11:59 AM - Re: Re:Storage of components (Juan Vega)
26. 01:05 PM - Re: Storage of components (Dave Ruddiman)
27. 01:58 PM - Fw: Shipping (Bill Naumuk)
28. 02:45 PM - Re: The Puzzle of the Yellow Fuel (xl)
29. 03:12 PM - Corrosion Protection (Ryan Vechinski)
30. 03:51 PM - Re: Corrosion Protection (Bruno)
31. 04:24 PM - tail dragger (Carlos Sa)
32. 04:52 PM - Re: Landing Lights (billmileski)
33. 05:49 PM - Re: Corrosion Protection (Dave Ruddiman)
34. 06:11 PM - Re: Taildragger (Brandon Tucker)
35. 07:29 PM - Re: Re: Landing Lights (Bryan Martin)
36. 08:24 PM - Re: Re: Taildragger (Carlos Sa)
Message 1
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| Subject: | The Puzzle of the Yellow Fuel |
Here is the mystery.
This is a brand new airplane. AMD-manufacturerd CH601XL with all new
everything and 20 hours on the Hobbs. It has never been fed anything other
than blue 100LL. The fuel samples from each wing tank are always blue and
have never shown any water or strange stuff. But, the fuel samples from the
Gasloator are always unmistakably Yellow. Oh, and the engine always roars
sweetly.
Does anyone know definitively what's going on? My theory is that the
brass/copper alloy gasolator, being new, is giving some color to the fuel
sitting in it. (Yes, as I'm writing this I realize that I should check the
sample color right after flying... thus the value of public confession.
Although... I have pulled as many as 5 sample tubes of fuel from the
Gasolator during pre-flight and they were all yellow.)
Has anyone else experienced the yellow tinge?
Frank Derfler N183AM
See my views and reviews at www.derfler.biz
See my information for pilots at www.flyinflorida.com
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Pulling Stainless Steel Rivets? |
I bought a good hand riveter at the auto parts store and the domed nose
piece that came with the riveter I bought from ZAC are interchangeable.
Clyde
601XL
----- Original Message -----
From: <Jaybannist@cs.com>
Sent: Friday, December 15, 2006 8:23 PM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Pulling Stainless Steel Rivets?
>
> Patrick, I also found the stainless steel rivets hard to pull. However, I
> bought a puller at Ace Hardware with a swiveling head ("Ace" brand) that I
> have used a lot more than the puller from ZAC. It was still a tough
> squeeze, but it worked. You will have to grind the nose pieces to make
> the domed heads on the rivets, but that is not a major job. Just heat
> them cherry red and when they are cooled, shape them with a Dremel tool.
>
> Jay in Dallas
> Do not archive
>
> "PatrickW" <pwhoyt@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>>
>>What are you guys using to pull the Stainless Steel rivets...?
>>
>>The pneumatic riveter that comes with the tool kit says to not use it on
>>Stainless Steel rivets. The instructions even show a picture of a broken
>>rivet gun.
>>
>>The hand riveter doesn't have enough "bite" to grip and pull on them
>>beyond setting them (it works fine on regular A4 & A5 rivets, so I know
>>it's not broken).
>>
>>What *really* works on these things...? What have others actually done
>>here...?
>>
>>Right now I've got an elevator horn attached with a couple of stainless
>>steel "nails" sticking out of it... :(
>>
>>Thanks,
>>
>>- PatrickW
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>Read this topic online here:
>>
>>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=81826#81826
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Pulling Stainless Steel Rivets? |
I'm using 601 XL Plans that are three years old. I haven't seen a call for SS rivets
yet. Tail feathers, wings almost done. Please list areas that designate
SS rivets besides firewall. Thanks.
Terry Turnquist
601XL-Plans
St. Peters, MO
xl <xl@prosody.org> wrote:
I literally had to stand on my hand riveter to pull the A5's.
It did keep working for awhile. I wore out 2 hand riveters.
I did pull all my rivets by hand.
Joe E
N633Z @ BFI
CH601XL, 410 hours
Jabiru 3300, Sensenich 64x49 wood prop
On Fri, 15 Dec 2006, PatrickW wrote:
> What are you guys using to pull the Stainless Steel rivets...?
> .........snip
> Thanks, - PatrickW
do not archive
__________________________________________________
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Pulling Stainless Steel Rivets? |
in the newletter, one gent used and hand riveter with a clamp attached to handles.
he turned the clamp screw, squeezing the rivet .
I used handle riveter. just take it slow.
Juan
-----Original Message-----
>From: Terry Turnquist <ter_turn@yahoo.com>
>Sent: Dec 16, 2006 8:42 AM
>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Pulling Stainless Steel Rivets?
>
>I'm using 601 XL Plans that are three years old. I haven't seen a call for SS
rivets yet. Tail feathers, wings almost done. Please list areas that designate
SS rivets besides firewall. Thanks.
>
> Terry Turnquist
> 601XL-Plans
> St. Peters, MO
>
>xl <xl@prosody.org> wrote:
>
>
>I literally had to stand on my hand riveter to pull the A5's.
>It did keep working for awhile. I wore out 2 hand riveters.
>I did pull all my rivets by hand.
>
>Joe E
>N633Z @ BFI
>CH601XL, 410 hours
>Jabiru 3300, Sensenich 64x49 wood prop
>
>
>On Fri, 15 Dec 2006, PatrickW wrote:
>
>> What are you guys using to pull the Stainless Steel rivets...?
>> .........snip
>> Thanks, - PatrickW
>do not archive
>
>
> __________________________________________________
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: The Puzzle of the Yellow Fuel |
the yellow may be water collecting in the gascolator. the engine will run because
the screen will not allow the water to go to the engine. the little doohiccy
is doing its job.
Juan
-----Original Message-----
>From: Frank Derfler <fderfler@gmail.com>
>Sent: Dec 16, 2006 7:45 AM
>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Zenith-List: The Puzzle of the Yellow Fuel
>
>Here is the mystery.
>
>This is a brand new airplane. AMD-manufacturerd CH601XL with all new
>everything and 20 hours on the Hobbs. It has never been fed anything other
>than blue 100LL. The fuel samples from each wing tank are always blue and
>have never shown any water or strange stuff. But, the fuel samples from the
>Gasloator are always unmistakably Yellow. Oh, and the engine always roars
>sweetly.
>
>Does anyone know definitively what's going on? My theory is that the
>brass/copper alloy gasolator, being new, is giving some color to the fuel
>sitting in it. (Yes, as I'm writing this I realize that I should check the
>sample color right after flying... thus the value of public confession.
>Although... I have pulled as many as 5 sample tubes of fuel from the
>Gasolator during pre-flight and they were all yellow.)
>
>Has anyone else experienced the yellow tinge?
>
>Frank Derfler N183AM
>See my views and reviews at www.derfler.biz
>See my information for pilots at www.flyinflorida.com
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Landing Lights |
Hi Bill,
I opted for navigation lights and strobes but no landing lights for
my XL even though I cannot legally fly at night. I hold a private
license and have had adequate night flying training and experience,
but plan to operate under Sport Pilot limitations so I don't have to
fight for a "Special Issuance" medical certificate.
I believe the landing light is not required by any regulation for
night operations. It may have value - primarily in daylight flight -
for collision avoidance, but in my humble experience is mostly
worthless for use in the dark.
My personal thinking is that while I will not plan for night
operation I might get caught with a late landing and want the minimum
lighting for legal flight at night. I think that is the navigation
lights, and the strobes just make sense even if they are not actually
required. If I get caught making a night landing with my Sport Pilot
restrictions, then I guess I will face the music.
Best regards,
Paul
XL fuselage
do not archive
At 04:24 PM 12/12/2006, you wrote:
>Brad-
> Good tip.
> I don't fly at night much but figured, as many other builders
> have, that having my project night capable would increase the
> resale value. Custom built the installation in my HDS (Following
> Jeff Small's recommendation to try and counteract the left turning
> tendancy) by putting as much dead weight in the RIGHT wing. I'm not
> the first to do this.
> Just dug out the receipts for my bulbs. $12.54 each at Car Care.
> Add the hardware and everything else and I might have $50.00 in my
> installation. 'Course you could buy a C-152 for what it cost if you
> count my time (Even at minimum wage) but the personal satisfaction
> is priceless!!!
> Do not archive
>Bill Naumuk
>HDS Fuselage
>Townville, Pa
---------------------------------------------
Paul Mulwitz
32013 NE Dial Road
Camas, WA 98607
---------------------------------------------
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re:Storage of components |
what i rad is that planes have various metals touching at any given point, (screws,
bolts, chrome molly, aluminum, etc. protecting the skin from water is not
so much an issue as protecting from electrolysis. that is why we paint zince
between pieces, and use cadmium washeers with screws and bolts. In st. petersburg
FLA where we live, we have salt water on the air field. we primed the
entire plane in and out. we alos painted light grey the entire interior. Aluminum
6061 has good anti corrosion properties and under normal weqar and tear
wilkl protect itself, we at the waters edge need a little help.
Juan
-----Original Message-----
>From: Edward Moody II <dredmoody@cox.net>
>Sent: Dec 15, 2006 7:12 PM
>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Re:Storage of components
>
>It depends on location. Some of us live close to salt water and/or have average
75% relative humidity. With that much moisture availabe in the air and the aluminum
changing temperature repeatedly, there is plenty of opportunity for the
bare aluminum to frequently have a wet surface. Other locales are more fortunate,
I'm sure.
>
>Ed Moody II
>Rayne, LA
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Aaron Gustafson
> To: zenith-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Friday, December 15, 2006 3:21 PM
> Subject: Zenith-List: Re:Storage of components
>
>
> I just took the tail parts of my 601 out of storage in my garage attic after
8 years with no protection at all and except for needing to wash off the dust
and mouse /flying squirrel crap they are just fine. If they don't get wet why
should they need other protection?
>
> Aaron Gustafson do not archive
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Pulling Stainless Steel Rivets? |
For one, 14 AS5 required for attachment of SS Piano Hinge to Toe Brake
Pedals and Rudder Pedals (per 601XL 6-B-9 Revision 04/04).
Robin in AR
N601ZV
----- Original Message -----
From: Terry Turnquist
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, December 16, 2006 7:42 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Pulling Stainless Steel Rivets?
I'm using 601 XL Plans that are three years old. I haven't seen a call
for SS rivets yet. Tail feathers, wings almost done. Please list areas
that designate SS rivets besides firewall. Thanks.
Terry Turnquist
601XL-Plans
St. Peters, MO
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Pulling Stainless Steel Rivets? |
Better check that.... I have two hand pullers and two pneumatic pullers
and none of them interchange.
Ed Moody II
----- Original Message -----
From: L. Kilburg
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, December 15, 2006 10:28 PM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Pulling Stainless Steel Rivets?
You should not have to heat the mandrels before grinding with a
Dremel (or
any other grinding tool). Heat is only required if you machine them.
But
better yet, just unscrew the mandrels from the air riveter and screw
them
into the hand riveter, most are interchangeable.
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: The Puzzle of the Yellow Fuel |
Someone's probably peeing in your gascolator. The good news is
apparently the engine loves it.
Sorry, I couldn't resist,
Ed
Do Not Archive nor Eat The Yellow Snow
----- Original Message -----
From: Frank Derfler
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, December 16, 2006 6:45 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: The Puzzle of the Yellow Fuel
Here is the mystery.
This is a brand new airplane. AMD-manufacturerd CH601XL with all new
everything and 20 hours on the Hobbs. It has never been fed anything
other than blue 100LL. The fuel samples from each wing tank are always
blue and have never shown any water or strange stuff. But, the fuel
samples from the Gasloator are always unmistakably Yellow. Oh, and the
engine always roars sweetly.
Does anyone know definitively what's going on? My theory is that the
brass/copper alloy gasolator, being new, is giving some color to the
fuel sitting in it. (Yes, as I'm writing this I realize that I should
check the sample color right after flying... thus the value of public
confession. Although... I have pulled as many as 5 sample tubes of
fuel from the Gasolator during pre-flight and they were all yellow.)
Has anyone else experienced the yellow tinge?
Message 11
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|
One factor with prop length doesn't seem to have surfaced in the
latest discussion. That is the fact that the propeller is mounted in
front of the fuselage. The airflow from the central portion of the
propeller is blocked by the front of the fuselage, so this is mostly
wasted energy. A longer propeller has less of its rotation disk
blocked by the fuselage, so more of the energy spent by the engine is
converted to thrust.
An extreme case of adding shorter blades would have all the airflow
generated by the propeller disrupted by the fuselage and a plane that
could barely taxi.
Paul
XL fuselage
do not archive
At 10:59 AM 12/14/2006, you wrote:
>Bill, my original thinking was as follows: There are some neat
>engines out there, but they run at high RPM. High RPM could push the
>prop tip speed close to Mach 1, thereby reducing efficiency a great
>deal. A shorter blade lets the tip move slower, keeping it in the
>efficiency range, but you lose lift (thrust) with smaller wing
>(blade) area. To compensate, then, why not have more blades, with
>wider chord, sort of the reason some very mean acro ships are
>biplanes, with tremendous lift. (The AN-2 springs to mind.) However,
>more blades mean more weight, so you would have to compensate by
>making them very light, possibly hollow. I suggest it could be done,
>but it likely isn't coming out of someone's garage. A high-tech prop
>manufacturer might have the answer. I don't. But it makes my brain itch.
>
>Paul Rodriguez
>601XL/Corvair
>(and probably with WW's two-bladed prop)
-
Message 12
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No doubt about the fact that any change to the aerodynamics of an
aircraft
is reason to have to fly off the test phase again and probably trigger
another inspection.
The main problem may well be legal, as you said the original builder is
responsible for the airworthiness of the plane...... even after it is
sold.... possibly sold several times.
Gary Wolf, president of the RAA (Recreational Aircraft Association)
asked
the question, "How would you feel if a plane you built were used for
training purposes after being sold?"? Remember you would have no
control
over how the plane is used or maintained. You do however still have the
responsibility of the original builder.
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of R.D.(Ron)
Leclerc
Sent: Friday, December 15, 2006 7:28 PM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Re: vg's
Noel I agree... this is for the Canadain guys wanting to remove there
slats
only!
This is a direct quote below from... COPA's -- "COPA Guide to
Amature-Built Aircraft"... in Canada Under - Reviewing The Rules - CAR
STD
507 Appendix C .... The only thing is if Transport Canada's final
inspection and approval was with the Slats on then it looks like they
should
be informed otherwise you would be flying illegal and if something
should
happen... that's where insurance companies will get a little excited
about!
Design Changes
Many builders of amateur-built aircraft incorporate changes in the
aircraft
they are building, whether the aircraft is being built from kits or
plans.
One of the great advantages of the amateur-built category is that this
is
allowed. It is up to builder to decide whether the changes are warranted
and
how they will be carried out.
Both the CARs and the courts have been clear that when the aircraft is
completed it is the builder who is responsible for the airworthiness of
the
aircraft, not the original designer or the manufacturer of the kit from
which it was constructed. This is a good thing as it allows the builder
to
make changes, but it carries with it the responsibility to do a good job
in
making changes to a design. Ensure you know what you are doing as you
will
be solely and legally responsible for the outcome!
If you are not confident in your abilities as a designer then get
professional help from the original designer or an aeronautical
engineer.
Otherwise don't make the changes to the design, especially when they
involve
changes to the structure.
There should be no confusion where the responsibilities are before the
build
and after the build after reading the above... the key word's are
"Ensure
you know what you are doing"
Ron Leclerc
Winnipeg,MB
On Tue, 12 Dec 2006 21:58:29 -0330, Noel Loveys wrote:
> Mark:
> I don't' think you would have problems removing the slats to get
> the plane passed the MD-RA I've seen greater design changes made
> to aircraft that passed. Remember the paper work on W&B needs to
> reflect the airplane without the slats. The configuration is
> almost considered normal in other countries with no known problems
> and some of those countries have a relatively similar level of
> legislation controlling aircraft authority for flight. Now if the
> 701's with the slats off were falling like flies in the Raid
> factory you would no doubt have problems.
> You are dead right on one point and that has to do with anyone
> wanting to register their plane AULA. No changes from the letter
> of conformity are allowed. If the plans call for a placard against
> chewing gum it better be there. I'll bet you are right on the
> insurance issue of calling it a CH701 too but there wouldn't be
> anything wrong with a JD701 (John Doe 701)
> On the use of VGs These little devices are used on all kinds of
> certified aircraft. Their placement is usually determined by wind
> tunnel testing. Their effectiveness when properly installed is
> proven. The operative words are, "properly installed".
> Considering that no one here will be hitting mach 1 I would think
> that if someone installed the VGs and did the appropriate envelope
> testing at altitude their use should be safe. A word of caution,
> the handy man's secret weapon will probably shoot down your plane.
> My question still stands: the CH701 is noted for poor glide ratio.
> does removing the slats improve the glide ratio.
> Noel
>
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
>> ZodieRocket Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2006 10:07 AM To: zenith-
>> list@matronics.com Subject: Zenith-List: Re: vg's
>>
>>
>> <zodierocket@hsfx.ca>
>>
>>
>> OK, will do! It doesn't matter if the plane fly's better with the
>> slats
>> or without. But in America and Canada lets just see how fast the
>> insurance companies bail on your ass for removing a flying
>> surface that
>> the designer says should be there. Regardless of any situation
>> that may
>> involve the NTSB removal of the slats called forth by the
>> designer would
>> be written in as a contributing factor( likely even if you ran
>> out of gas), in which the builder removed before flight and once
>> again have fun
>> with AVEMCO or any other insurance dealer. Also since you have
>> experimented and removed the slats the designer called for then
>> you have
>> made a structural change and can no longer call it a 701, once
>> again enjoy your insurance company when you tell them this is a
>> one off. If you're Canadian, I doubt your 701 would pass an
>> inspection for the MD-RA
>> to get it's flight authority and if you register as an AULA you
>> are not allowed to remove anything from the plans.
>>
>> I can't comment on the pro's of VG's, I know a lot of people have
>> made money selling them. I also know that until the designer
>> states that the
>> design requires VG's they will never see my plane.
>>
>> As for reported testing having been done. I don't dispute there
>> figures
>> but I do caution most to consider this. I have a 701 close to me
>> that cruises at 85mph, and another with the same engine that
>> cruises at 105 at the same power setting. Difference is that the
>> builder of the second
>> 701 streamlined the struts, cleaned up the cowling, adjusted so
>> that the
>> stabilizer is on correctly with flight checks. There were no
>> major modifications just common sense clean up and he is cruising
>> his 701 at 5
>> MPH below the Vne! The Recreational Flyer magazine article that
>> shows this comparison is on the Zenith website.
>>
>> Personal outlook only. You can add whatever you want to your 701,
>> remove
>> what you want from your 701, and believe in anything you want!
>> But I will not be removing my slats! I do not plan on cruising
>> ANY plane at or
>> near Vne. I'm quite happy with a 701 that can cruise at 95mph
>> with a Rotax 912S I believe that this is well within reach of
>> anyone who has built a straight 701 and will now spend the time
>> to clean it up. You want an instant 5mph in your 701? Call Zenith
>> and order the new FWF. As
>> a bonus your fuselage will be quieter from the less vibration
>> passed on
>> by the new engine mount. Another 5mph can be gained by taking a
>> piece of
>> .016 and wrapping your struts into a streamline airfoil. I'm not
>> going to risk an insurance company telling me that I don't have
>> coverage after
>> I hit a deer on the runway when the NTSB states that I have
>> removed a portion of flying surface!
>>
>> You folks that have gone through all the hassle of removing the
>> slats and adding Vg's good for you, your courage deserves
>> applause. But when it comes to the 701 if the owner is not
>> getting over 75mph cruise with a
>> 912, then they need to spend time fixing what they have wrong,
>> not throw
>> parts away! ( well maybe the prop) For those who have a 701
>> flying at 100mph cruise or higher, why would you want to be that
>> close to Vne all the time?
>>
>> Mark Townsend Alma, Ontario
>> Zodiac 601XL C-GOXL, CH701 just started
>> www.ch601.org / www.ch701.com / www.Osprey2.com -----Original
>> Message----- From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
>> secatur Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2006 6:09 AM To: zenith-
>> list@matronics.com Subject: Zenith-List: Re: vg's
>>
>> <appraise1@bigpond.com>
>>
>> Well, I guess I'll just have to change my mind and build the
>> slats and throw these VG's away !
>> 1700+ hours of independant, documented testing WITHOUT 1 negative
>> report ain't gonna convince me!
>> And when my 701 is finished I will park it right next to my
>> Wright Flyer, and my Model T ford (Black of course!) right under
>> the big sign that says "EXPERIMENTAL..do not change or alter
>> ever...or else!!"
>>
>> ps: Can somebody please post some BAD results with VG's instead
>> of Slats .... so I can feel justified??
>>
>> Wowie Zowie !
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p961#80961
>>
>>
>> --
>> 12/11/2006
>>
>>
>> --
>> 12/11/2006
>>
>>
>> --
>> 12/11/2006
>>
>>
>> ==========
>>
>> This Month --
>> Get Some AWESOME FREE Gifts!)
>>
>> on
>> about
>> provided
>>
>> HREF="file://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
>> HREF="file://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com
>> HREF="file://www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.com
>> HREF="file://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com
>>
>>
>>
HREF="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/
>> contribution
>>
>>
>> bsp; -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>>
>> ==========
>> Zenith-List Email Forum - the Matronics List Features Navigator
>> to browse many List utilities such as the Subscriptions page,
>> Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare,
>> and much much more:
>> HREF="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-
>> List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List
>> ==========
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>>
>> Fund Raiser. style="font-size:9pt;">
>> Builder's style="font-size:9pt;">
>> -> http://www.matronics.com/contr
<http://www.matronics.com/contribution> />>> your generous
style="font-size:9pt;">
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===== />>> The style="font-size:9pt;">
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Message 13
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| Subject: | FAR quesion on major mod |
Does anyone know what FAR reg deals with major modifications to an
Experimental? I sure could use some help. I have several feelers out, but thought
I
would contact the list for your input.
I have finished my 601HDS Spring Gear conversion. As some of you may
remember, I had a weld failure on the left main at the bottom plate that attached
to the 2 inch tube. I decided rather than reinstall the same type gear, I
went with the spring gear from Grove aircraft.
I have completed the project and have done my new weight and balance, and
completed several high speed taxis along with lifting if off the runway and back
down several times, and so far so good.
So my question is: what paperwork do I need to complete, do I need to have a
DAR reinspect it, or can I make the notations in the logs, is there another
Phase I flight testing and for how long?
Anyway, if anybody knows what FAR reg deals with that, please let me know,
cause I'm getting many different opinions.
Thanks for your help
Jim Olson
Murphy, NC
CH01HDS, N56BJ 288 hrs
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Landing Lights |
According to the FARs: Anti-collision lights (strobes) are required
on all aircraft, day or night. Nav lights are only required from
sunset to sunrise. A landing light is only required on aircraft
operated for hire.
A landing light is not really required for landing on a lighted
runway. I've landed without a landing light several times, mostly
because the cowl mounted landing lights tended to have a short
service life and would often quit unexpectedly. Landing lights are
good for alerting you to deer on the runway though, they're very hard
to see otherwise.
On Dec 16, 2006, at 9:37 AM, Paul Mulwitz wrote:
>
> I opted for navigation lights and strobes but no landing lights for
> my XL even though I cannot legally fly at night.
>
> I believe the landing light is not required by any regulation for
> night operations. It may have value - primarily in daylight flight
> - for collision avoidance, but in my humble experience is mostly
> worthless for use in the dark.
>
> I think that is the navigation lights, and the strobes just make
> sense even if they are not actually required.
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
do not archive.
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Pulling Stainless Steel Rivets? |
OK Guys - I got it. Here's the solution.
Short Version: Unscrew the nose piece "a little bit". This allows the hand riveter
to "bite" onto a different section of the shaft. This worked for me.
Long Version: I carefully measured the length of the rivet shaft that was still
sticking out. I then pumped the hand riveter 300 (three hundred!) times. It
felt like I was getting just a hair's worth of "bite" at the end of each stroke,
so I kept going - thinking that I was getting it very slowly.
Then I measured the length of the protruding shaft. No change! But I did notice
some small metal "filings" in the area. Something was wearing down someplace.
I twisted the hand riveter around to "get a different angle" on the rivet,
and the very firt pull "felt different". But then all the subsequent pulls
felt the same as before. I realized at that point I might as well have been trying
to squeeze a watermelon seed.
But I knew what the problem was at that point. I took the nosepiece out of the
riveter and looked inside to see how it worked. I needed to be able to "bite"
onto a different section of the rivet shaft each time. I simply unscrewed the
nosepiece a little bit and gave it a try.
What do you know - it worked! 2 pulls later I heard a resounding BANG and the
Stainless Steel rivets were installed. :D
Tail section done. On to the Wings...
Thanks everyone,
- PatrickW
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=81910#81910
Message 16
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| Subject: | 701 slats needed |
For all you guys out there taking off your slats and going to VG's thats great.
I am rebuilding a crashed 701 and I'm in need of a set of good slats. I would
like to try things out with the slats first. After that I might take them
off and see how it works. So please e-mail me or call me if you have a set you
would like to sell.
Rick
661-345-7755
or
rick@ravengear.us
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=81922#81922
Message 17
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I am rebuilding a crashed 701 and I'm looking for tooling to get the job done.
Anyone done with thier 701 and has any jig's and/or tooling that are now collecting
dust in the corner I need your help. If you have any tooling you can
now live without please contact me.
Rick
661-345-7755
or
rick@ravengear.us
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=81924#81924
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Pulling Stainless Steel Rivets? |
Hmmm..... not knowing any better, I just used the pneumatic puller that I bought
from Mark and David at CAN-ZAC when I took their rudder workshop. It came from
a Canadian outfit called Princess Auto. It didn't break and I've pulled a lot
of rivets since. Maybe I just got lucky.
BTW - The first place you use SS rivets is on a strap that is associated with the
elevator horn.
Tim
--------
DO NOT ARCHIVE
______________
CFII
Champ L16A flying
Zodiac XL - Working on wings
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=81927#81927
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Storage of components |
Dave-
I didn't have problems with completed assemblies- they're stored in
a rollaway crade I made out of an old entertainment center.
Where I did have problems was with sheet stock stored against an
outside wall. Even though my basement is heated and has a dehumidifier,
I wound up with significant corrosion by the time I got around to using
those components.
My advice is to "Rotate your stock". Move your large sheet
components every so often to prevent corrosion.
Good building!
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Ruddiman
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, December 15, 2006 5:39 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Storage of components
Hi Ben,
I don't know about anyone else, but I am planning on painting my
components with epoxy primer tinted to the approximate finish color. It
will give my an idea of what the plane will look like when it's done and
if I don't paint it right away it will last for quite awhile until I do.
Plus it will be primed between all the parts. Using epoxy means it will
take a little sanding and scuffing to apply the top coat, but it's all
dooable. Some will not agree, some will, but I don't care because it's
my plane and that's the beauty of it. I can do what ever I want. I
already know the pros and cons of doing this. I have been around
painting for 30+ years. I don't know everything, but I do know a lot
about this. Plus I have done a little research.
Good Luck
Dave in Salem - where the wind finally died down.
801
----- Original Message -----
From: PipercubDream@aol.com
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, December 15, 2006 10:08 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Storage of components
I'm sure this has been touched on before but I was curious about the
storage of completed components. After I finish my tail kit and I'm
working on the other pieces and parts should I apply some kind of
protective coating to the exposed aluminum? I have a dry
basement/storage/winter workshop area and I can see a couple of years
ahead of building and assembly. I plan of painting my ch 701 and had
thought of simply applying primer after each completed part.
Thanks.....Ben
do not archive
href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com
href="http://www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.com
href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List">http://www.matron
Message 20
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Dennis-
I'll be surprised if you get a positive response. Do a good job of
on-line shopping. I've seen used tools advertised on E-Bay that were listed
for more than you could buy them form new. Many times!
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dennis Wieck" <dwieck@bellsouth.net>
Sent: Friday, December 15, 2006 8:20 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Tools
>
> I am just getting ready to start building my 601XL. Anybody that has
> finished theirs interested in selling their tools?
> Do not archive
>
> Dennis
> dwieck@bellsouth.net
>
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: FAR quesion on major mod |
I don't know which FAR, but you can usually find the requirement listed on your
operating limitations. When I changed engine types, I filled out a new Airworthiness
Application and sent it along with a letter explaining what I was doing
to the local FSDO. In the letter tell them a little about the mod, and explain
what you plan on doing for testing. Leave your contact information so they
can call if they need more information. One thing that I wish I had done was
send the letter "return receipt" as I have no record of them receiving it.
Randy Stout
>>Does anyone know what FAR reg deals with major modifications to an Experimental?
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: The Puzzle of the Yellow Fuel |
I couldn't resist either.....
Ed, some may rate your humor as a ten others only as a 2 or 3
BUT "Your an 8".
Do Not Archive... KABONG 8*0
----- Original Message -----
From: Edward Moody II
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, December 16, 2006 6:48 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: The Puzzle of the Yellow Fuel
Someone's probably peeing in your gascolator. The good news is
apparently the engine loves it.
Sorry, I couldn't resist,
Ed
Do Not Archive nor Eat The Yellow Snow
----- Original Message -----
From: Frank Derfler
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, December 16, 2006 6:45 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: The Puzzle of the Yellow Fuel
Here is the mystery.
This is a brand new airplane. AMD-manufacturerd CH601XL with all
new yellow.)
Has anyone else experienced the yellow tinge?
Message 23
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Neat explanation, Bryan. I guess I'll stick with WW's prop on my corva
ir. (unless I borrow my friend's dragster engine, modify the cowling,
mount and firewall, get bigger landing gear, carve eight humongous hol
es in the top of the cowling, .....hhmmmm)=0A=0APaul Rodriguez
=0ADO NOT ARCHIVE=0A ----- Original Message ----- =0A From:
Bryan Martin<mailto:bryanmmartin@comcast.net> =0A To: zenith-list
@matronics.com<mailto:zenith-list@matronics.com> =0A Sent: Friday,
December 15, 2006 1:09 AM=0A Subject: Re: Zenith-List: propellors
=0A=0A=0A The more blades you have the less the overall effi
ciency of the prop becomes. Each blade sees a bit of flow disruption f
rom the blade leading it. The biggest reason for going with more blade
s is to allow the allow more power to be converted to thrust by the pr
op. That's why you often see high powered turbofans turning props with
as many as seven blades. With all that power available, the lower eff
iciency is acceptable. If you don't have a lot of power available, the
loss of efficiency of multiple bladed props can become a big deal.
=0A=0A=0A The most efficient propellor is one with a single
blade with a mass counter balance. There are a few motor gliders that
use this configuration to squeeze every bit of thrust they can from a
small, light-weight engine.=0A=0A=0A Another reason to go wi
th more blades is that the more blades you have the higher the frequen
cy of the noise generated by the propellor. Higher frequencies tend to
dissipate more quickly over distance, resulting in a quieter airplane
=0A=0A=0A If you are running a direct drive engine at a rel
atively high RPM, you have to use a small diameter prop to avoid exces
sively tip speeds and you may need more blades to get acceptable thru
st, but you will pay a penalty in propellor efficiency. =0A=0A
=0A=0A=0A=0A On Dec 14, 2006, at 1:59 PM, <paulrod36@msn.
com<mailto:paulrod36@msn.com>> <paulrod36@msn.com<mailto:paulrod36@msn
com>> wrote:=0A=0A=0A Bill, my original thinking was as f
ollows: There are some neat engines out there, but they run at high R
PM. High RPM could push the prop tip speed close to Mach 1, thereby re
ducing efficiency a great deal. A shorter blade lets the tip move slow
er, keeping it in the efficiency range, but you lose lift (thrust) wit
h smaller wing (blade) area. To compensate, then, why not have more bl
ades, with wider chord, sort of the reason some ...=0A=0A=0A_
-=======================
=======================
e Builder's Bookstore www.buildersbooks.com<http://www.buildersbooks.c
=======================
=======================
om/Navigator?Zenith-List<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-Lis
=======================
==================0A=0A
Message 24
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Message 25
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| Subject: | Re:Storage of components |
quite true, the paint does not stick where corrosion X has been sprayed in the
past.
Juan
-----Original Message-----
>From: MaxNr@aol.com
>Sent: Dec 15, 2006 2:26 PM
>To: Zenith-List@matronics.com
>Subject: Zenith-List: Re:Storage of components
>
>Do not archive
>If you you prime with ZINC PHOSPHATE, you must apply top coat within four
>hours. according to label. I've got some Cortec on the way to (hopefully) get
>around this. Just wondering: Would a semi-annual coat of WD-40 and bubble wrap
>work? I've been told by another sadder but wiser builder that if you ever apply
>a corrosion blocker (ACF-50,Corrosion-X etc) to any surface, forget about
>painting it latter. I have no personal info on this item and I am only rumor-
>mongering.
>
>Bob D.
>XL-lyc-rudd&eng mt
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Storage of components |
I had a similar problem by leaving my wing parts in the box outside and
covered up. Enough moisture got in so that any metal sheets touching
were corroded. I sanded it off and primed it, but I have been more
careful since then.
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Naumuk
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, December 16, 2006 9:12 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Storage of components
Dave-
I didn't have problems with completed assemblies- they're stored
in a rollaway crade I made out of an old entertainment center.
Where I did have problems was with sheet stock stored against an
outside wall. Even though my basement is heated and has a dehumidifier,
I wound up with significant corrosion by the time I got around to using
those components.
My advice is to "Rotate your stock". Move your large sheet
components every so often to prevent corrosion.
Good building!
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Ruddiman
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, December 15, 2006 5:39 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Storage of components
Hi Ben,
I don't know about anyone else, but I am planning on painting my
components with epoxy primer tinted to the approximate finish color. It
will give my an idea of what the plane will look like when it's done and
if I don't paint it right away it will last for quite awhile until I do.
Plus it will be primed between all the parts. Using epoxy means it will
take a little sanding and scuffing to apply the top coat, but it's all
dooable. Some will not agree, some will, but I don't care because it's
my plane and that's the beauty of it. I can do what ever I want. I
already know the pros and cons of doing this. I have been around
painting for 30+ years. I don't know everything, but I do know a lot
about this. Plus I have done a little research.
Good Luck
Dave in Salem - where the wind finally died down.
801
----- Original Message -----
From: PipercubDream@aol.com
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, December 15, 2006 10:08 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Storage of components
I'm sure this has been touched on before but I was curious about
the storage of completed components. After I finish my tail kit and I'm
working on the other pieces and parts should I apply some kind of
protective coating to the exposed aluminum? I have a dry
basement/storage/winter workshop area and I can see a couple of years
ahead of building and assembly. I plan of painting my ch 701 and had
thought of simply applying primer after each completed part.
Thanks.....Ben
do not archive
href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com
href="http://www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.com
href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com
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href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List">http://www.matron
href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com
href="http://www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.com
href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List">http://www.matron
Message 27
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Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Naumuk
Sent: Saturday, December 16, 2006 4:55 PM
Subject: Re: Shipping
Ron-
Finally received my package FedEx today- 9 days after I ordered
it!!! For this service, you charge me $11.32 for a 2lb package.
My suggestion is that in the future you find out how many deadbeats
are aircraft owner/builders. I'd hazard a guess at none.
Hopefully this posting will encourage your company to make an
exception for homebuilders. I for one am so disgusted that given a
chance, I'd never order from your company again.
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Naumuk
To: ronblackink@earthlink.net
Sent: Thursday, December 14, 2006 6:30 PM
Subject: Re: Shipping
Ron-
In my case there's an easy solution. UPS bends over backwards to
accomodate their customers in this area but FedEx seems to consider us a
PIA.
I've never had a problem with UPS but get screwed by FedEx 75% of
the time.
My suggestion is to modify your website to allow customers to
choose their shipper. I vote for UPS.
Thanks for following up.
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: Ronald Black
To: Bill Naumuk
Cc: Bob McHugh ; Clifford Lester
Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 6:34 PM
Subject: RE: Shipping
Bill, I checked with Brooklyn about your shipment. Unfortunately,
we have lately had a fairly serious problem with folks claiming that
"...never received the shipment of polish, materials, (or whatever,) so
could we please send them again?" Fed Ex UPS et. al. say they have
delivered. so we have no recourse except to replace it ($$) and pay for
the shipping, too. We're looking for a better answer, but this
signature requirement is all we have to use right now. Do you have
another address, -a friend in a business, or a neighbor who is home,
who would receive shipments for you when you are not available?
-Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Naumuk
To: ronblackink@earthlink.net
Sent: 12/13/2006 2:48:11 PM
Subject: Shipping
Ron-
Since I never did receive a response from the request I made
to the factory, I figured you were the best recourse.
Why in the heck did Nuvite ship FedEx with a requirement for
signed receipt from an adult?? I only ordered a couple of bonnets!
I don't get home from work until 5:30, and the tag on the
front door said FedEx had tried to deliver twice- at 11:30 AM. I called
FedEx, and they said that I could request Saturday delivery- no
specified time. Two weeks from Christmas and I have to hang around the
house all day Saturday to get a couple of bonnets I should have had left
at my front door yesterday?? If I'm not around when they deliver
Saturday, they're returning the bonnets to you!!
Needless to say, my frustration is reaching the breaking
point. I've been pissing around since October trying to get 1 panel
polished via the Nuvite system, and am still sitting on my hands.
Any help with the brass is appreciated.
Thanks.
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: The Puzzle of the Yellow Fuel |
The fuel pulled from my gasolator was discolored for awhile after
I started flying 633Z. I didn't note when the yellow to dark yellow color
went away, I haven't seen it for 1++ years. I attributed the color to
leaching of the rubber fuel lines. Easy to test - put some fuel in a new
line, plug the ends, and check for color in a week or two.
If you don't have rubber lines check for other sources that could leach.
Joe E
N633Z @ BFI
CH601XL, 412 hours
Jabiru 3300, Sensenich 64x49 wood prop
On Sat, 16 Dec 2006, Frank Derfler wrote:
> This is a brand new airplane. AMD-manufacturerd CH601XL with all new
> everything and 20 hours on the Hobbs. It has never been fed anything other
> than blue 100LL. The fuel samples from each wing tank are always blue and
> have never shown any water or strange stuff. But, the fuel samples from the
> Gasloator are always unmistakably Yellow. Oh, and the engine always roars
> sweetly.
> .................snip
> Has anyone else experienced the yellow tinge?
> Frank Derfler N183AM
Message 29
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| Subject: | Corrosion Protection |
I see from reading some of the other subjects (i.e. storage of components)
that there might be some problems with paint sticking where there is corros
ion protection. I am using zinc chromate to protect my plane. Am I going
to have problems with paint sticking to these parts?
If so I'll be more careful where my zinc chromate ends up (i.e. nothing on
outside surfaces)
Ryan
Message 30
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| Subject: | RE: Corrosion Protection |
Here there are a lot of useful articles:
http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/corrosion/corridx.htm
Bruno
Message 31
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Hello, all
I am presently assembling the outboard panels of my 601-HD, which I have
always thought would have tricycle gear.
But, for some reason (food poisoning, alignment of planets, subliminal
messages, global warming, God knows) I have been thinking about a tail
dragger configuration.
I know this is a good topic to start a 3-week long thread, but the issue is
too old for this.
All I'd like to know is what are the changes/pitfalls in the construction?
I know it gets some simplification by deleting the nose gear - but then you
add a tail wheel.
If I recall well, the main gear is installed between nose ribs, so that's
probably the only pieces that go to waste: 4 nose ribs.
My spar is already built, but I am guessing it requires no changes.
Anyway, I'll order the TD plans on Monday. Even if I decide against it, it's
only $25.
And, btw, how many TD owners/builders subscribe to this list? Please respond
to this particular question directly to me: carlossa51@gmail.com
Cheers
Carlos
Montreal, Canada
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Landing Lights |
91.209 Aircraft lights.
No person may:
(a) During the period from sunset to sunrise (or, in Alaska, during the period
a prominent unlighted object cannot be seen from a distance of 3 statute miles
or the sun is more than 6 degrees below the horizon)
(1) Operate an aircraft unless it has lighted position lights;
(2) Park or move an aircraft in, or in dangerous proximity to, a night flight operations
area of an airport unless the aircraft
(i) Is clearly illuminated;
(ii) Has lighted position lights; or
(iii) is in an area that is marked by obstruction lights;
(3) Anchor an aircraft unless the aircraft
(i) Has lighted anchor lights; or
(ii) Is in an area where anchor lights are not required on vessels; or
(b) Operate an aircraft that is equipped with an anticollision light system, unless
it has lighted anticollision lights. However, the anticollision lights need
not be lighted when the pilot-in-command determines that, because of operating
conditions, it would be in the interest of safety to turn the lights off.
> According to the FARs: Anti-collision lights (strobes) are required
> on all aircraft, day or night.
Per (b) above it looks like anticollision lights must be on if the aircraft has
them. But not all aircraft are required to have them. Certainly this would keep
the no-electrical-system crowd in their hangars even during the day.
Bill Mileski
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=82007#82007
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: Corrosion Protection |
Ryan,
I'm using Zinc Chromate on the interior parts. I don't worry about
overspray to the outside. In fact, I sometimes lay one skin on top of
another to prime the inside of the skins. I'll just scotchbrite it off
or use lacquer thinner to remove it. I think what everyone is talking
about is Corrosion X or similar corrosion proofing for interior parts. I
used some on some parts that got on a few exterior pieces. I just
cleaned it off before priming and have had no problems.
After all the **** that goes on on this list I will deny any of this
information and suggest you don't use it without advise from legal
counsel.
Dave in Salem
Please DO NOT ARCHIVE for any reason.
----- Original Message -----
From: Ryan Vechinski
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, December 16, 2006 3:11 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Corrosion Protection
I see from reading some of the other subjects (i.e. storage of
components) that there might be some problems with paint sticking where
there is corrosion protection. I am using zinc chromate to protect my
plane. Am I going to have problems with paint sticking to these parts?
If so I'll be more careful where my zinc chromate ends up (i.e.
nothing on outside surfaces)
Ryan
Message 34
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Carlos,
I tried e-mailing this to your address, but it returned. So here it is
for all to read...
Carlos,
I recently finished my HDS taildragger. I did not, however, use
the standard bungee cord gear. I fabricated and installed an aluminum
spring gear. I don't believe that the main gear installation would be
any more difficult to install forward of the spard rather than aft.
Due to the curvature of the nose ribs and LE skin, this area is much
stronger than aft of the spar, and lends well to gear installation. The
tailwheel installation is pretty straightforward. Once you receive the
plans from ZAC, you will see that there are basically 2 4130 components
to fabricate / purchase from ZAC. I have a plasma cutter and welder,
so building the pieces was very easy, probably less than a day of
fabrication. If you did not read my post a couple of weeks ago regarding the
Matco tailwheel and leaf spring, look into the archives. The price is
right, and makes installation a snap.
I chose conventional gear because I fly tailwheel
aircraft comercially, and simply have an affinity for them. The
Zodiac behaves reasonably well, as far as taildraggers go, with the
rudder effective enough to handle significant crosswinds. My first high
speed taxis and short flights down the runway were in a 15 knot
crosswind, and while it was a bit squirley, it was not a problem. Make sure
that if you do not have a good amount of tailwheel time, you get some
under your belt before test flying your aircraft.
Bottom line - taildraggers just look cooler. :) (Opinion - don't start
flaming!)
http://mcgirt.net/~ars2006/ars2006/Desktop.html
R/
Brandon
__________________________________________________
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: Landing Lights |
According to the EAA, the minimum equipment rule (91.205) applies to
standard category aircraft but not experimental category, so
homebuilts aren't required to have strobes for day VFR. However, the
homebuilt Operating Limitations require you to comply with this rule
for night flight. So if you have strobes they generally have to be
on, but if you won't be flying your homebuilt after sunset, you don't
need to install strobes, but if your homebuilt was built recently.
On Dec 16, 2006, at 7:51 PM, billmileski wrote:
> <mileski@sonalysts.com>
>
> 91.209 Aircraft lights.
> No person may:
>
>
> (b) Operate an aircraft that is equipped with an anticollision
> light system, unless it has lighted anticollision lights. However,
> the anticollision lights need not be lighted when the pilot-in-
> command determines that, because of operating conditions, it would
> be in the interest of safety to turn the lights off.
>
>
>> According to the FARs: Anti-collision lights (strobes) are required
>> on all aircraft, day or night.
>
>
> Per (b) above it looks like anticollision lights must be on if the
> aircraft has them. But not all aircraft are required to have them.
> Certainly this would keep the no-electrical-system crowd in their
> hangars even during the day.
>
> Bill Mileski
>
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
do not archive.
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Taildragger |
Hi, Brandon
Obviously I can't type worth a rat's tail... My address is
carlossa52@gmail.com (not "51").*
*
It seems that the actual construction of the TD option is not a problem.
What may end up being a show stopper is (1) insurance, given I have no TD
time at this point and (2) getting TD time: the two airports within 30 min
driving have no TDs for rental/instruction... Bummer
Thanks for your comments
Carlos
CH601-HD, plans
Assembling wings.
*
*
On 16/12/06, Brandon Tucker <btucke73@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> Carlos,
>
> I tried e-mailing this to your address, but it returned. So here it
> is for all to read...
>
> Carlos,
>
> I recently finished my HDS taildragger. I did not, however, use
> the standard bungee cord gear. I fabricated and installed an aluminum
> spring gear. I don't believe that the main gear installation would be
> any more difficult to install forward of the spard rather than aft.
> Due to the curvature of the nose ribs and LE skin, this area is much
> stronger than aft of the spar, and lends well to gear installation. The
> tailwheel installation is pretty straightforward...
>
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