Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:04 AM - Re: Re: Wiring up your wings (Bryan Martin)
2. 05:17 AM - Re: Re: Nav antenna location?/200 mph (Terry Phillips)
3. 05:33 AM - Re: Re: Nav antenna location? (Bryan Martin)
4. 06:01 AM - Re: A Series Continentals (Steve Hulland)
5. 06:07 AM - VG's ()
6. 06:10 AM - Re: Screw-up (Bill Naumuk)
7. 06:30 AM - Re: Re: Are these the J-Nuts? (LarryMcFarland)
8. 06:38 AM - Re: Nav antenna location? (Gig Giacona)
9. 06:41 AM - Re: Landing Light Lens Trimming (Bill Naumuk)
10. 07:13 AM - VG's ()
11. 07:23 AM - Re: VG's (Dave Austin)
12. 08:30 AM - canopy fitting (john butterfield)
13. 08:47 AM - Matco tailwheel picture (Brandon Tucker)
14. 08:55 AM - CH601XL center spar webs - drilling six 1/4" holes (ashontz)
15. 10:10 AM - Re: RE : Questions About Bending Brake (ashontz)
16. 10:18 AM - Re: canopy fitting (Robin Bellach)
17. 10:18 AM - Re: Re: RE : Questions About Bending Brake (Afterfxllc@AOL.COM)
18. 10:18 AM - Re: Screw-up (ernie)
19. 10:26 AM - Re: Re: RE : Questions About Bending Brake (Afterfxllc@AOL.COM)
20. 10:34 AM - Re: RE : Questions About Bending Brake (ashontz)
21. 10:43 AM - Re: RE : Questions About Bending Brake (ashontz)
22. 10:52 AM - Re: Re: RE : Questions About Bending Brake (Robin Bellach)
23. 10:56 AM - Re: Screw-up (Clyde Barcus)
24. 11:01 AM - Re: Re: RE : Questions About Bending Brake (Afterfxllc@aol.com)
25. 11:22 AM - Re: Screw-up (Jaybannist@cs.com)
26. 11:22 AM - Microsoft's own virus (Mack Kreizenbeck)
27. 11:26 AM - Re: Center wing spar question (ashontz)
28. 12:17 PM - Re: Screw-up (Paul Mulwitz)
29. 12:18 PM - Re: Re: RE : Questions About Bending Brake (Paul Mulwitz)
30. 01:09 PM - Re: canopy fitting (Gig Giacona)
31. 01:12 PM - Re: Microsoft's own virus (Gig Giacona)
32. 01:28 PM - Length of Aileron Rod? (chris Sinfield)
33. 02:26 PM - Re: Length of Aileron Rod? (Jaybannist@cs.com)
34. 02:27 PM - Re: Microsoft's own virus (Roger Venables)
35. 02:38 PM - Re: Microsoft's own virus (billbutlergps@aim.com)
36. 02:39 PM - Re: Screw-up (Bill Naumuk)
37. 04:18 PM - Re: VG's (JG)
38. 04:18 PM - Items from the latest Zenair newsletter (#157) (Craig Payne)
39. 04:38 PM - Re: canopy fitting (LarryMcFarland)
40. 04:51 PM - Re: canopy fitting (LarryMcFarland)
41. 06:29 PM - What Size Brass Safety Wire? (Phil Maxson)
42. 06:47 PM - Re: What Size Brass Safety Wire? (NYTerminat)
43. 08:13 PM - Re: canopy fitting (Juan Vega)
44. 09:19 PM - Re: What Size Brass Safety Wire? (T. Graziano)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Wiring up your wings |
Here's one place, they've been pretty good to deal with.
http://www.bandc.biz/index.html
On Dec 26, 2006, at 4:25 PM, chris Sinfield wrote:
> <chris_sinfield@yahoo.com.au>
>
> Anyone know where we can buy the Common Earth fittings like in the
> Homebuilt Help DVD? or the fuse boxes?
> Chris
> Do not archive
>
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
do not archive.
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Nav antenna location?/200 mph |
Tony
Thank you for the reply. That sounds like a reasonable way to proceed,
given the info from ZAC. I suspect they increased the gross to 1320 in
response to the release of sport aircraft limits (no doubt as a result of
static load tests). But, I'd like to know why they changed the Vne.
I am confident that the XL at 160 mph is well within it's safety envelope,
but excessive wing load is a serious matter, see "Faulty ADM Kills" in
http://overtheairwaves.com/vol3-20final.html
for an extreme example of the consequences.
Terry
At 09:04 AM 12/26/2006 -0600, you wrote:
>Terry,
>Good question.
>The Vne on my plans (dwgs dated 06/03) is 180 mph. and gross wt is 1300
>lbs. Dwg change #3 established a gross wt of 1320 lbs with a Vne of 160
>mph. I recall asking Zenith about the change to Vne and if I recall the
>answer was a Vne of 180 is ok at 1320 gross wt if I have cargo in my wing
>lockers. I assumed the change in Vne was for g loading under rapid stick
>deflection. I took it to a little less than 110% max Vne IAS. I did not
>do any excitation of the control surfaces at that speed other than a
>smooth pull out. I approached that speed in a series of increasing speeds
>during my Phase I testing.
>I have not gone into the "red line" since test flight, but I do have
>confidence in the integrity of the XL airframe should I somehow
>inadvertently wifferdill* into some unusual nose down attitude.
>It appears that some doubt that the XL can do 200 mph.even at terminal
>velocity. I have no idea what the terminal velocity of the XL might be
>and do not plan to find out.
>
>* "Technical" term for an uncontrolled/unexpected departure or a "what the
>@#$&"
>
>Tony
Terry Phillips
ttp44@rkymtn.net
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Nav antenna location? |
I cut down two FM whip antennas to about 26" (a little shorter than a
1/4 wavelength at the middle of the VOR band) and mounted them at
about 120 in a 3/4 inch PVC pipe cap. I used a "bazooka" balun. The
reception is pretty good.
On Dec 26, 2006, at 4:21 PM, Eddie G. wrote:
> <silentlight@verizon.net>
>
> Bryan,
>
> Did you go with a 45* rabbit ear or 90*? What length? How is the
> reception?
>
> Thanx...Eddie
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
do not archive.
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: A Series Continentals |
Dave,
Thanks, I have the orig. continental repair/parts manual. Will study it this
week. If the job is as easy as you say, I may change the engine before DAR
time. If it appears that it will take me to long to get done (I am slow), I
will get the airworthiness inspection done, fly off the airplane and then
change the engine. We are at 2,600' +/-. The A-65 appears to be good for
this airplane. I cannot hold the airplane with full throttle - unless it is
tied down. Wants to "skip" on the pavement with the brakes held tight. That
is at 2200 rpm. Gonna re-check/adjust the brakes tomorrow morning and see if
anything changes.
--
Semper Fi,
Steven R. Hulland
CH 600 Taildragger
Amado, AZ
This and all other incoming/outgoing email, attachments and replies scanned
prior to opening/sending and uses an external firewall to help insure virus
free email and attachments.
Message 5
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As for placement I tried 12%, 10%, and 8%. I settled on 8 %(LE of VG at
147mm forward of rivet line on top of spar on my plane). 12% was too far
back. At 10% on an extremely aggressive takeoff rotation the vgs would
occasionally "uncover" and result in an extended takeoff roll. I haven't
been able to force this situation at 8%.
I would stress that it is important to do your own flight testing before
making this commitment as each of these planes is different and your
results may vary considerably from mine.
Good Luck
Joe
Message 6
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Wade-
Deja vu all over again! That damned Z spar was my first "Oops part",
too! You should see how many entries in my builder's log start with
"Aaargh! I can't believe I did it again!"
do not archive
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: Gary Boothe
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 26, 2006 12:58 PM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Screw-up
Wade,
I had ordered wing kits and cut the wrong angle on my 2nd rear spar. I
thought life was over.
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Are these the J-Nuts? |
Hi Terry,
I've had the u-nuts and j-nuts in service for over 2 years and can find
no signs of galvanic action on them or the cad plated steel screws.
Nothing was done to address the problem, but again, as the forward top
skin has been off a 3 or 4 times this past 2 years, there is no evidence
of corrosion. I don't believe there is any potential, unless the
aircraft was constantly exposed to rain and snow or the plane had to set
in a hangar within a mile of ocean salt air. I see they've been
phosphate treated and that's probably why they
are without corrosive activity.
Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
Terry Phillips wrote:
>
> Larry
>
> I am very attracted to the convenience of the j-nuts, but I am
> concerned by the potential for corrosion problems, since I am unable
> to find any j-nuts with cadmium plating to eliminate galvanic
> corrosion with aluminum. How did you address this problem? Did you use
> steel screws, cad plated steel screws or aluminum screws? Are you
> concerned about the potential for corrosion between the screws, nuts,
> bulkheads, and skin?
>
> Terry
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Nav antenna location? |
Is there any reason not to put them (VOR Antenna) on the underside of the rear
fuselage slightly forward of the HT support?
--------
W.R. "Gig" Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=83743#83743
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Landing Light Lens Trimming |
Brad-
1. I put duct tape on both sides (Front+back) of the cut line and cut
with a fine blade and high speed on my bandsaw. Leave a little extra stock
for the inevitable little chips and finish up with a belt or disc sander.
2. I went down to the local hardware store and bought a batch of springs
of differing lengths and compression strengths to compensate for the final
lens mount angle. It's a lot easier to install a short spring where
necessary than to try to install longer, "One size fits all" springs. Hope
this helps.
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brad DeMeo" <demeo@sonic.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 26, 2006 11:03 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Landing Light Lens Trimming
>
> How do you trim acrylic? What tools are best for this? I have to trim
> about 1 inch off one side of the landing light lens for the Landing light
> option on my CH601. I will be grateful for any advice.
>
> Also, I'm having a heck of a time getting the lights in without losing the
> springs on the assembly. Does anyone have a good technique for the
> installation of the actual lights and the four screws, four springs, etc.
> I got flippin' made today and started talking to myself while trying to
> get those things screwed in. Someday I'm going to have to change a bulb.
> Any thoughts?
>
> Brad DeMeo
>
>
>
Message 10
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Forgot to mention on my last post that I am looking for some sort of CG
range data for the slatless wing-if anybody has or knows would
appreciate it
BTW the last paragraph on my last post wasn't some BS liability
disclaimer-it's real.
Happy New Year
Joe
Message 11
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Re VG positioning..
I'd recommend you put more (closer together) VGs out at the wingtips to
help make sure the inner wing stalls first. JMHO.
Dave Austin 601HDS - 912, Spitfire Mk VIII
Message 12
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hi list
i am trying to finish my canopy so i can send the fuse
out for paint. i have avioded this step for as long
as i can, but must get over this final hurdle. to me,
this is the most difficult and illogical part to
complete. nothing seems to progress in any rational
pattern.
i now believe that in order to have the thing fit
right, i will have to do major triming on one side of
the plexiglass. the manual suggests that some triming
will be needed to fit the open/close lever.
i am going to put it on and trim one side so it fits
evenly over the left and right rail. i will do this
unless someone out there has a trick or believes i
have made some major mistake in my construction of the
machine. i would gladly have paid extra to have a
completed canopy section sent. this part is far from
an exact science.
perhaps i am just getting frustrated as i thought i
was near completion. those tubes drive me crazy.
any comments or suggestions would be welcomed
john butterfield
601XL corvair
torrance, ca
__________________________________________________
Message 13
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| Subject: | Matco tailwheel picture |
Gents,
Attached is the picture of my tailwheel that I
promised over a week ago. You can see the welded
extention, and how I ran the spring kit.
VR/
Brandon Tucker
601 HDS / corvair
44 hours
__________________________________________________
Message 14
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| Subject: | CH601XL center spar webs - drilling six 1/4" holes |
Newbie here.
I'm making my center spar webs at the moment and I made a mistake by flaring the
holes in the web before laying out and drilling the six 1/4" bolt holes. I'm
thinking of correcting this by placing a piece of 3/4" MDF board in between the
two webs (with a hole cut out of the board for clearance of the flared holes),
clamping the whole thing together tightly, with the two flanges set against
each other as specified in the plans, just with a 3/4" board offset instead
of being flat against each other, and then drilling the 1/4" holes. Does this
sound like a reasonbly safe method for getting the holes aligned properly? Seems
to me, drilled either way, that the piece would still be floppy enough before
being mounted in the fuselage to allow enough play to get all 6 bolts in place
properly.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=83775#83775
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: RE : Questions About Bending Brake |
I have an 8'+ bending brake I made out of 1/4" thick by 3 1/2" steel angle made
with the same bending pivot idea as Zenith's brake. Despite what they say, you
can extended that brake to a full 8', you just need to beef it up externally.
I can bend .032 no problem. .040 I need a couple extra clamps in the middle,
but evereything below .032 is a piece of cake and straight. My brake desing
also allows for full depth bending (ie. rudder skin etc...) because the clamp
attach points are at the ends, no in the middle. Again, beefing it up externally
like a real brake is the key. The brake I have only cost about $300 including
the materials for the dolly and doesn't require any special machining operations
(no milling, no lathe work). You can make it with a metal cutting band saw,
drill press, hand grinder, and assorted basic hand tools. No welding required
at the joints either. The only welds I have on it are where the bow tensions
are mounted to the bows, and I'm sure something else could be done there too
or taken to a welder for $10. Perfect for sheet up to .032 (did my web spars
on it, al within 1mm) and good for .040 shallow depth sheet (stiffener L's etc...)
with a few extra clamps. No need to file a 1/8 radius either. It was already
on the steel by default. Just cleaned up the edge. Truly a handy thing to
have around the shop a problem free 8' bending brake for around $300.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=83794#83794
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: canopy fitting |
Another canopy question-
I'm ready to start on the canopy, but am limited presently by a low 7'6"
ceiling. I'm thinking of putting the fuse flat on the floor with the gear
removed, and wondering if that will allow enough head room. Can the canopy
be properly fitted without having to open it fully? How high is it above the
top longerons when open?
Robin in AR
N601ZV 601XL Zen-Vair
----- Original Message -----
From: "john butterfield" <jdbutterfield@yahoo.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 27, 2006 10:29 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: canopy fitting
> <jdbutterfield@yahoo.com>
>
> hi list
>
> i am trying to finish my canopy so i can send the fuse
> out for paint. i have avioded this step for as long
> as i can, but must get over this final hurdle. to me,
> this is the most difficult and illogical part to
> complete. nothing seems to progress in any rational
> pattern.
>
> i now believe that in order to have the thing fit
> right, i will have to do major triming on one side of
> the plexiglass. the manual suggests that some triming
> will be needed to fit the open/close lever.
>
> i am going to put it on and trim one side so it fits
> evenly over the left and right rail. i will do this
> unless someone out there has a trick or believes i
> have made some major mistake in my construction of the
> machine. i would gladly have paid extra to have a
> completed canopy section sent. this part is far from
> an exact science.
>
> perhaps i am just getting frustrated as i thought i
> was near completion. those tubes drive me crazy.
>
> any comments or suggestions would be welcomed
> john butterfield
> 601XL corvair
> torrance, ca
>
>
> __________________________________________________
>
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: RE : Questions About Bending Brake |
This concerns me...... You do what you like but this is a very bad and
unsafe practice.
In a message dated 12/27/2006 1:12:34 PM Eastern Standard Time,
ashontz@nbme.org writes:
No need to file a 1/8 radius either. It was already on the steel by default.
Just cleaned up the edge.
Message 18
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Hi all,
I am wondering the source scratch builders are getting their 3/4 x 3/4 x
.093
Aluminum angle. Spruce has 3/4x3/4x1/8. I screwed up my elevator horn
doubler 6t3-6 by trimming off to much and was thinking that some raw
materials around the shop would be a good thing.
All this talk from the scratch builders has me thinking, that I should be
able to recover from some mistakes that are simple. maybe a couple of small
sheets or .040 and .032. To form some common parts.
Is there such a thing as a hybrid builder out there?
Thanks
Ernie.
Do not archive.
On 12/27/06, Bill Naumuk <naumuk@alltel.net> wrote:
>
> Wade-
> Deja vu all over again! That damned Z spar was my first "Oops part",
> too! You should see how many entries in my builder's log start with "Aaargh!
> I can't believe I did it again!"
>
> do not archive
> Bill Naumuk
> HDS Fuselage
> Townville, Pa
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Gary Boothe <gboothe@calply.com>
> *To:* zenith-list@matronics.com
> *Sent:* Tuesday, December 26, 2006 12:58 PM
> *Subject:* RE: Zenith-List: Screw-up
>
> Wade,
>
>
> I had ordered wing kits and cut the wrong angle on my 2nd rear spar. I
> thought life was over.
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: RE : Questions About Bending Brake |
Sorry I miss read your post disregard that last post. I thought you were
talking about the radius on the aluminum before you bend it.
Do not archive
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: RE : Questions About Bending Brake |
[quote="Afterfxllc(at)AOL.COM"]This concerns me...... You do what you like but
this is a very bad and unsafe practice.
In a message dated 12/27/2006 1:12:34 PM Eastern Standard Time, ashontz@nbme.org
writes:
> No need to file a 1/8 radius either. It was already on the steel by default.
Just cleaned up the edge.
>
> [b]
I can take a picture if you like. There was in fact a round edge on it. On all
the pieces in fact. If it's 1/4" thick, and the edge is round, it's therefore
a 1/8" radius. I just cleaned any rust and high spots off of it before using it.
No need to file a 1/8" radius, it was already there. Even Zenith's brake per
the plans made a mention of a 1/8" radius already on the steel angle and to
just clean it up.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=83801#83801
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: RE : Questions About Bending Brake |
[quote="Afterfxllc(at)AOL.COM"]Sorry I miss read your post disregard that last
post. I thought you were talking about the radius on the aluminum before you
bend it.
Do not archive
> [b]
No problem.
Not sure what you're talking about with the aluminum having a radius.
I should pos some pix of my brake. I did a lot of thinking about this when I made
it and agonized over it. Not having a good qaulity large brake available to
me really put a damper on trying to get started on building a plane in the first
place. I'm happy with it. It's worked well and very versatile.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=83804#83804
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: RE : Questions About Bending Brake |
HUH?
Do not archive.
----- Original Message -----
From: Afterfxllc@AOL.COM
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 27, 2006 12:16 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Re: RE : Questions About Bending Brake
This concerns me...... You do what you like but this is a very bad and
unsafe practice.
In a message dated 12/27/2006 1:12:34 PM Eastern Standard Time,
ashontz@nbme.org writes:
No need to file a 1/8 radius either. It was already on the steel by
default. Just cleaned up the edge.
Message 23
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I bought a kit and like everyone else, or at least most, I screw up a
part now and then and not only does it get expensive but a lot of time
is lost waiting on replacement parts. Recently I bought 4' x 4' sheets
of .025, .032, .040 and .063 and I am really glad I did, I have used it
several times. Sometimes it is replacement for a part that is clearly
scrap, other times for a marginal part that bugs the hell out of me. I
wish I had done it sooner, it would have saved me a fair amount of money
and a lot of time.
Regards:
Clyde Barcus
601 XL
----- Original Message -----
From: ernie
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 27, 2006 12:17 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Screw-up
Hi all,
I am wondering the source scratch builders are getting their 3/4 x 3/4
x .093
Aluminum angle. Spruce has 3/4x3/4x1/8. I screwed up my elevator horn
doubler 6t3-6 by trimming off to much and was thinking that some raw
materials around the shop would be a good thing.
All this talk from the scratch builders has me thinking, that I should
be able to recover from some mistakes that are simple. maybe a couple of
small sheets or .040 and .032. To form some common parts.
Is there such a thing as a hybrid builder out there?
Thanks
Ernie.
Do not archive.
On 12/27/06, Bill Naumuk <naumuk@alltel.net> wrote:
Wade-
Deja vu all over again! That damned Z spar was my first "Oops
part", too! You should see how many entries in my builder's log start
with "Aaargh! I can't believe I did it again!"
do not archive
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: Gary Boothe
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 26, 2006 12:58 PM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Screw-up
Wade,
I had ordered wing kits and cut the wrong angle on my 2nd rear
spar. I thought life was over.
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List
http://forums.matronics.com
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| Subject: | Re: RE : Questions About Bending Brake |
OK I miss read the post I thought he was talking about a relief filed or
drilled before the bend is made. i thought he said no need for them I missed the
part about the steel edge.
do not archive
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Any "honest" builder will own up to messing up some part or the other. Yes, sometimes,
it is best to go to ZAC for another part; but most of the time it is
easier (and definitely quicker) to fabricate another part yourself. I have probably
made a dozen replacement parts (confession is good for the soul, I am told).
Get over your "boo-boo", set your mind to it, recover and move on.
Jay in Dallas
Do not archive
"Clyde Barcus" <barcusc@comcast.net> wrote:
>I bought a kit and like everyone else, or at least most, I screw up a part now
and then and not only does it get expensive but a lot of time is lost waiting
on replacement parts. Recently I bought 4' x 4' sheets of .025, .032, .040 and
.063 and I am really glad I did, I have used it several times. Sometimes it
is replacement for a part that is clearly scrap, other times for a marginal
part that bugs the hell out of me. I wish I had done it sooner, it would have
saved me a fair amount of money and a lot of time.
>
>Regards:
>
>Clyde Barcus
>601 XL
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: ernie
> To: zenith-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Wednesday, December 27, 2006 12:17 PM
> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Screw-up
>
>
> Hi all,
>
> I am wondering the source scratch builders are getting their 3/4 x 3/4 x .093
> Aluminum angle. Spruce has 3/4x3/4x1/8. I screwed up my elevator horn doubler
6t3-6 by trimming off to much and was thinking that some raw materials around
the shop would be a good thing.
>
> All this talk from the scratch builders has me thinking, that I should be able
to recover from some mistakes that are simple. maybe a couple of small sheets
or .040 and .032. To form some common parts.
>
> Is there such a thing as a hybrid builder out there?
>
> Thanks
>
> Ernie.
>
> Do not archive.
>
>
> On 12/27/06, Bill Naumuk <naumuk@alltel.net> wrote:
> Wade-
> Deja vu all over again! That damned Z spar was my first "Oops part", too!
You should see how many entries in my builder's log start with "Aaargh! I
can't believe I did it again!"
>
do not archive
> Bill Naumuk
> HDS Fuselage
> Townville, Pa
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Gary Boothe
> To: zenith-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Tuesday, December 26, 2006 12:58 PM
> Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Screw-up
>
>
> Wade,
>
>
> I had ordered wing kits and cut the wrong angle on my 2nd rear spar. I thought
life was over.
>
>
>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List
>http://forums.matronics.com
>
>
Message 26
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| Subject: | Microsoft's own virus |
I know that this is off the subject matter of building aircraft, but I feel
it to be a great importance to many of you!
I recommend what ever you do - do not upgrade to the new version IE7 of
Internet Explorer until they get the bugs worked out. It has cost me several
days of down time & $ to get my computer repaired! I use this computer for
my business and I'm sure you can appreciate what happens when the computer
goes down! The gentleman in India, helping me, stated that Microsoft cannot
for see all the bugs in a sterile computer lab setting, so they have to put
it out on the market and hope for the best.
Mack
601XL in final stages
Do not archive
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Center wing spar question |
carlosfsa(at)yahoo.com wrote:
>
> Bryan, are you keeping the oval hole?
That's what I was going to say. Doesn't matter if it's in a jig or the spar. The
holes should be PERFECTLY aligned (by jigging the center spar to a wing spar
and drilling through both and then reaming through both).
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=83815#83815
Message 28
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Hi Ernie,
What I have done is to replace man kit parts I screwed up by building
them from scratch. This is much easier than actual scratch building
because you have the kit part to compare to your new piece.
Many of the kit parts are easy to replace. The ones that are a
bigger challenge are the very large parts with long bends and things
like the wing spars that also have solid rivets to deal with.
You can order replacement parts from ZAC. You can also order
replacement materials from them or any other source that has the
right stuff. In the case of 6061-T6 sheet metal and extrusions there
are many sources. This material is very common in the market place
for use in all sorts of stuff - not just aircraft or mil. spec.
use. At some stage, ZAC will include some spare materials in your
kit box too.
The only advice I can offer is to do what ever you are comfortable
with. If you don't like your results and feel uncomfortable then
order replacement parts. The nicest part of all metal construction
is you can undo just about anything and keep working on it until you
are satisfied. It is you, the builder, who must take responsibility
for all the parts and the final construction.
Have fun,
Paul
XL fuselage
At 10:17 AM 12/27/2006, you wrote:
>Hi all,
>
>I am wondering the source scratch builders are getting their 3/4 x 3/4 x .093
>Aluminum angle. Spruce has 3/4x3/4x1/8. I screwed up my elevator
>horn doubler 6t3-6 by trimming off to much and was thinking that
>some raw materials around the shop would be a good thing.
>
>All this talk from the scratch builders has me thinking, that I
>should be able to recover from some mistakes that are simple. maybe
>a couple of small sheets or .040 and .032. To form some common parts.
>
>Is there such a thing as a hybrid builder out there?
>
>Thanks
>
>Ernie.
-
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: RE : Questions About Bending Brake |
Hi Robin,
I don't know what the problem is either. I did just the same thing
on my bending brake - used rounded edge extrusion to set the 1/8"
bend radius for all the parts from my brake.
Paul
XL fuselage
do not archive
At 10:51 AM 12/27/2006, you wrote:
>HUH?
>
>Do not archive.
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <mailto:Afterfxllc@AOL.COM>Afterfxllc@AOL.COM
>To: <mailto:zenith-list@matronics.com>zenith-list@matronics.com
>Sent: Wednesday, December 27, 2006 12:16 PM
>Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Re: RE : Questions About Bending Brake
>
>This concerns me...... You do what you like but this is a very bad
>and unsafe practice.
>
>
>In a message dated 12/27/2006 1:12:34 PM Eastern Standard Time,
><mailto:ashontz@nbme.org>ashontz@nbme.org writes:
>No need to file a 1/8 radius either. It was already on the steel by
>default. Just cleaned up the edge.
>
>
---------------------------------------------
Paul Mulwitz
32013 NE Dial Road
Camas, WA 98607
---------------------------------------------
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| Subject: | Re: canopy fitting |
I can't help because I just ordered my canopy kit today. But since I was around
a 601XL not that long ago I think it will be close.
--------
W.R. "Gig" Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=83825#83825
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Microsoft's own virus |
I've got it running on both my office and home and with the exception of a few
IE crashes that don't even require a restart I haven't had any problem.
What is/was yours doing?
DO NOT ARCHIVE
--------
W.R. "Gig" Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=83827#83827
Message 32
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| Subject: | Length of Aileron Rod? |
Hi All
just installed the aileron and found out that the rod from the bellcrank is to
long. I measured and checked eveything again and still cannot see my mistake and
there is no eye end to eye end measurment on the plans.
Can someone who has this rod handy please measure from the enter of one eye end
to the ocenter of another. or have I missed this measurement on the plans.
and yes when I look through the eye ends I have the steel rod ends in deep enough.
Thanks Chris.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=83831#83831
Message 33
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| Subject: | Length of Aileron Rod? |
Chris,
No mistake, the rod is too long, on purpose I guess. I screwed the rod into the
bellcrank connector, held the aileron at neutral, placed the other end of the
rod along side the aileron connector and "eyeballed" the location for the cut.
I cut it a little long and trimmed it later for a proper fit. Since it is
a stainless steel rod, it will not be easy to cut and you will probably have
to dress the end threads to get it to screw into the connector. It's really not
too hard a job. Good luck!
Jay in Dallas
"chris Sinfield" <chris_sinfield@yahoo.com.au> wrote:
>
>Hi All
>just installed the aileron and found out that the rod from the bellcrank is to
long. I measured and checked eveything again and still cannot see my mistake
and there is no eye end to eye end measurment on the plans.
>
> Can someone who has this rod handy please measure from the enter of one eye
end to the ocenter of another. or have I missed this measurement on the plans.
and yes when I look through the eye ends I have the steel rod ends in deep enough.
>
>Thanks Chris.
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=83831#83831
>
>
Message 34
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| Subject: | Microsoft's own virus |
Mack
I have been using IE7 since it came out without any problems.
(In fact I replaced Firefox which for me was simply horrible)
This probably doesn't help you any but it may give others another point of
view
Roger
701 fuselage
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mack
Kreizenbeck
Sent: Wednesday, December 27, 2006 11:22 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Microsoft's own virus
I know that this is off the subject matter of building aircraft, but I feel
it to be a great importance to many of you!
I recommend what ever you do - do not upgrade to the new version IE7 of
Internet Explorer until they get the bugs worked out. It has cost me several
days of down time & $ to get my computer repaired! I use this computer for
my business and I'm sure you can appreciate what happens when the computer
goes down! The gentleman in India, helping me, stated that Microsoft cannot
for see all the bugs in a sterile computer lab setting, so they have to put
it out on the market and hope for the best.
Mack
601XL in final stages
Do not archive
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: Microsoft's own virus |
Oops too late. As a mater of fact I am unable to connect to the net at home. I
am going home and taking IE off and loading Mozilla. I run Mozilla at work and
all is fine.
Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: aprazer@cableone.net
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wed, 27 Dec 2006 1:21 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Microsoft's own virus
I know that this is off the subject matter of building aircraft, but I feel
it to be a great importance to many of you!
I recommend what ever you do - do not upgrade to the new version IE7 of
Internet Explorer until they get the bugs worked out. It has cost me several
days of down time & $ to get my computer repaired! I use this computer for
my business and I'm sure you can appreciate what happens when the computer
goes down! The gentleman in India, helping me, stated that Microsoft cannot
for see all the bugs in a sterile computer lab setting, so they have to put
it out on the market and hope for the best.
Mack
601XL in final stages
Do not archive
________________________________________________________________________
Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam
and email virus protection.
Message 36
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Ernie-
We're all "Hybrid" builders. I haven't seen a completed project yet
that didn't include some embellishment to the basic plans. The way I
figure it, if you're making a non-structural mod ( Fairings, light
installation, etc.) go for it.
On the other hand, if you're considering making a flying surface
larger or smaller or modifying the gear, list advice isn't for you- you
should talk to Zenith.
As far as I know, you only incur a weight penalty if you go to the
next size larger stock. DON'T THROW THINGS- I SAID "AS FAR AS I KNOW"!
The big problem with using .125 stock for the horn is, it's hard to
bend, and you're not allowed to heat it with a torch. There are a lot of
things you're not allowed to do when building an airplane that are
perfectly legal for tractors!
do not archive
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: ernie
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 27, 2006 1:17 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Screw-up
Hi all,
I am wondering the source scratch builders are getting their 3/4 x 3/4
x .093
Aluminum angle. Spruce has 3/4x3/4x1/8. I screwed up my elevator horn
doubler 6t3-6 by trimming off to much and was thinking that some raw
materials around the shop would be a good thing.
All this talk from the scratch builders has me thinking, that I should
be able to recover from some mistakes that are simple. maybe a couple of
small sheets or .040 and .032. To form some common parts.
Is there such a thing as a hybrid builder out there?
Thanks
Ernie.
Message 37
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<I am looking for some sort of CG range data for the <slatless wing-if
anybody has or knows would appreciate it
We have three slatless 701's at our airfield, and some experience with
adjusting CofG.
Hans' (912S) weighs in at 503kg (1107lb) at 26% m.a.c., loaded for
travel, with 82kg (180lb) pilot, 95litres (25gal) fuel in wing tanks,
two jerrycans of fuel 28kg (62lb) on pax seat, and 20kg (44lb) baggage.
Gene's (912) weighs in at 496kg (1091lb) at 25% m.a.c., loaded the same
as above.
Hans' and Gene's were actually weighed in that loaded condition on
professional scales.
Phil's (912) was weighed empty, and the loaded conditions calculated.
It weighed in empty at 283kg (623lb) at 22% m.a.c. This a/c has the
original 40litre (10.6gal) fuel tank forward in the cowl, and 40litre
(10.6gal) in the wings. Calculating the most forward CofG, (single
pilot 82kg and full forward fuel), gives CofG at 21% m.a.c. Calculating
full load CofG, (full fuel (80litres), pilot 82kg, pax 82kg, no
baggage), gives 502kg (1109lb) at 28% m.a.c. Due to that forward fuel
tank we had to put the battery right back in the tail to get the most
forward CofG to 21%, which is still quite far forward...... This a/c
has a history, in that when we bought it in a crashed condition the
battery was forward of the firewall, so what was the actual CofG! The
crash occurred when a ferry pilot, unfamiliar with 701's, tried to take
off from a short strip and then tried to abort too late when the
aircraft didn't want to rotate easily........ More detail on that in a
separate post - there's lessons there I think.
Of the three aircraft, Phil's balances the best with a CofG at about 27%
(pilot + pax + part fuel), Hans' balances well at 26%, and Gene's feels
just a little bit nose heavy at 25%. This is testing the balance in
glide, and the ability to flare comfortably at idle power. The next
testing we will be doing is to adjust Gene's to 27% to see if it feels
better there......
Wishing fair skies and tailwinds all year.
JG
----- Original Message -----
From: jpspencer@cableone.net
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2006 2:11 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: VG's
Forgot to mention on my last post that I am looking for some sort of
CG range data for the slatless wing-if anybody has or knows would
appreciate it
BTW the last paragraph on my last post wasn't some BS liability
disclaimer-it's real.
Happy New Year
Joe
Message 38
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| Subject: | Items from the latest Zenair newsletter (#157) |
(If you don't subscribe to the newsletter you ought to - it is the
"official" source of information from Zenith. Call 262.966.7627 to
subscribe)
- Schuyler McCorkle at Silver Sky Enterprises in Chandler, AZ offers flight
instruction in their dual-stick 601XL. (480) 422-9426,
www.silverskyaviation.com
- Lori offer's a nice sunshade for the CH 601 at $150: 530-585-2515.
- Zenith is offering a "Jump Start Kit" for the 701. "Virtually all
rivet-holes in the major airframe components have been located and
pre-drilled". Much more pre-done work is described. Contact your regional
dealer (Not Mexico, MO apparently): Quality Sport Planes in California:
707-546-6272, Flight Crafters in Florida: 813-779-1156 or CAN-ZAC in Canada
(also covers the NE US): 519-591-7601
- Zenith recommends a update to the bottom plate of the main gear legs of
601 UL, HD and HDS. The original 1/8 inch plate at the bottom of the gear
should be replaced with a 3/16 inch plate. This is in addition to the wheel
fork doubler 6L1-3HD. Zenith will sell you a new gear leg 6L1-1 for $58 each
plus shipping and handling.
-- Craig
Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: canopy fitting |
Hi John,
Do look over my website Canopy page. It is progressive and pictures the
evolution of completing it without
any words. I'd not paint until the canopy sides and forward arm covers
are ready as well. Tape your canopy down after
you've trimmed front and back to within a quarter inch from the skins
with the latches locked. Trim the sides after getting position
for the front and rear edges where they should be. I don't recommend
the front edge flashing as it's unnecessary if you trim close.
Don't get in any hurry as this will lead to mistakes. If you use
painter's tape to secure the canopy and common reference points drawn
on the tubes and the canopy, you' ll get consistent position from which
to make the cuts around the latch lever. Ink marker works.
Doing the canopy is a bit of artwork in measuring and cutting, but it
can be done by completing each segment of
the thing just one problem at a time.
Good luck,
Regards,
Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
john butterfield wrote:
>
> hi list
>
> i am trying to finish my canopy so i can send the fuse
> out for paint. i have avioded this step for as long
> as i can, but must get over this final hurdle. to me,
> this is the most difficult and illogical part to
> complete. nothing seems to progress in any rational
> pattern.
>
> i now believe that in order to have the thing fit
> right, i will have to do major triming on one side of
> the plexiglass. the manual suggests that some triming
> will be needed to fit the open/close lever.
>
> i am going to put it on and trim one side so it fits
> evenly over the left and right rail. i will do this
> unless someone out there has a trick or believes i
> have made some major mistake in my construction of the
> machine. i would gladly have paid extra to have a
> completed canopy section sent. this part is far from
> an exact science.
>
> perhaps i am just getting frustrated as i thought i
> was near completion. those tubes drive me crazy.
>
> any comments or suggestions would be welcomed
> john butterfield
> 601XL corvair
> torrance, ca
>
>
>
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: canopy fitting |
Robin,
Putting the fuselage down 12 to 18 inches will help with fitting out,
deciding clearances front edge to forward top skin and also for
connecting cylinders several times. Just measure the length from the
pivot point to 6 inches behind the B2 bow and set an angle of 80 degrees
from the pivot. See link to get an idea of what is,
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/canopy/full/canopyup4.gif
Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
do not archive
Robin Bellach wrote:
>
> Another canopy question-
> I'm ready to start on the canopy, but am limited presently by a low
> 7'6" ceiling. I'm thinking of putting the fuse flat on the floor with
> the gear removed, and wondering if that will allow enough head room.
> Can the canopy be properly fitted without having to open it fully? How
> high is it above the top longerons when open?
>
> Robin in AR
> N601ZV 601XL Zen-Vair
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "john butterfield"
> <jdbutterfield@yahoo.com>
> To: "Zenith-List Digest Server" <zenith-list-digest@matronics.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, December 27, 2006 10:29 AM
> Subject: Zenith-List: canopy fitting
>
>
>> <jdbutterfield@yahoo.com>
>>
>> hi list
>>
>> i am trying to finish my canopy so i can send the fuse
>> out for paint. i have avioded this step for as long
>> as i can, but must get over this final hurdle. to me,
>> this is the most difficult and illogical part to
>> complete. nothing seems to progress in any rational
>> pattern.
>>
>> i now believe that in order to have the thing fit
>> right, i will have to do major triming on one side of
>> the plexiglass. the manual suggests that some triming
>> will be needed to fit the open/close lever.
>>
>> i am going to put it on and trim one side so it fits
>> evenly over the left and right rail. i will do this
>> unless someone out there has a trick or believes i
>> have made some major mistake in my construction of the
>> machine. i would gladly have paid extra to have a
>> completed canopy section sent. this part is far from
>> an exact science.
>>
>> perhaps i am just getting frustrated as i thought i
>> was near completion. those tubes drive me crazy.
>>
>> any comments or suggestions would be welcomed
>> john butterfield
>> 601XL corvair
>> torrance, ca
>>
>>
>>
>> __________________________________________________
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 41
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| Subject: | What Size Brass Safety Wire? |
When I installed my turnbuckles, I used someone else's safety wire. Now I
don't know what size to use to replace the turnbuckles after my annual insp
ection (next month). Does anyone know the correct size wire to safety the
turnbuckles? Thanks in advance.Phil Maxson601XL/CorvairNorthwest New Jerse
y
_________________________________________________________________
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Message 42
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| Subject: | Re: What Size Brass Safety Wire? |
.032 is generally used
In a message dated 12/27/06 21:31:15 Eastern Standard Time, pmaxpmax@HOTMAIL.COM
writes:
When I installed my turnbuckles, I used someone else's safety wire. Now I don't
know what size to use to replace the turnbuckles after my annual inspection
(next month). Does anyone know the correct size wire to safety the turnbuckles?
Thanks in advance.
Phil Maxson
601XL/Corvair
Northwest New Jersey
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Message 43
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| Subject: | Re: canopy fitting |
larry, can you send me more pics of you forward skin, how did you work the side
sections close to the canopy hinge? I am working on that this holiday.
Juan
-----Original Message-----
>From: LarryMcFarland <larry@macsmachine.com>
>Sent: Dec 27, 2006 7:37 PM
>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Zenith-List: canopy fitting
>
>
>Hi John,
>Do look over my website Canopy page. It is progressive and pictures the
>evolution of completing it without
>any words. I'd not paint until the canopy sides and forward arm covers
>are ready as well. Tape your canopy down after
>you've trimmed front and back to within a quarter inch from the skins
>with the latches locked. Trim the sides after getting position
>for the front and rear edges where they should be. I don't recommend
>the front edge flashing as it's unnecessary if you trim close.
>Don't get in any hurry as this will lead to mistakes. If you use
>painter's tape to secure the canopy and common reference points drawn
>on the tubes and the canopy, you' ll get consistent position from which
>to make the cuts around the latch lever. Ink marker works.
>Doing the canopy is a bit of artwork in measuring and cutting, but it
>can be done by completing each segment of
>the thing just one problem at a time.
>Good luck,
>Regards,
>Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
>
>
>john butterfield wrote:
>>
>> hi list
>>
>> i am trying to finish my canopy so i can send the fuse
>> out for paint. i have avioded this step for as long
>> as i can, but must get over this final hurdle. to me,
>> this is the most difficult and illogical part to
>> complete. nothing seems to progress in any rational
>> pattern.
>>
>> i now believe that in order to have the thing fit
>> right, i will have to do major triming on one side of
>> the plexiglass. the manual suggests that some triming
>> will be needed to fit the open/close lever.
>>
>> i am going to put it on and trim one side so it fits
>> evenly over the left and right rail. i will do this
>> unless someone out there has a trick or believes i
>> have made some major mistake in my construction of the
>> machine. i would gladly have paid extra to have a
>> completed canopy section sent. this part is far from
>> an exact science.
>>
>> perhaps i am just getting frustrated as i thought i
>> was near completion. those tubes drive me crazy.
>>
>> any comments or suggestions would be welcomed
>> john butterfield
>> 601XL corvair
>> torrance, ca
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 44
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| Subject: | Re: What Size Brass Safety Wire? |
Per AC43.13-1B/2A "Acceptable Methods, Techniques, and Practices
AIRCRAFT INSPECTION, REPAIR & ALTERATIONS" in Table 7-8 "Turnbuckle
safetying guide" for 1/8 cable using Single Wrap use .040 Stainless
steel, Monel or K Monel or 0.057 min Copper, Brass. For Double wrap use
0.040 Copper,Brass (Galvanized or tinned steel, or soft iron wires are
also acceptable for Copper,Brass).All material should be annealed
condition.I highly recommend all builders procure a copy of the above
AC, I believe you will find it invaluable. It also shows the proper
way to single or double wrap safetying of turnbuckles.Tony Graziano
601XL, N493TG, 188 hrs-----------------------------------When I
installed my turnbuckles, I used someone else's safety wire. Now I
don't know what size to use to replace the turnbuckles after my annual
insp
ection (next month). Does anyone know the correct size wire to safety
the
turnbuckles? Thanks in advance.Phil Maxson601XL/CorvairNorthwest New
Jersey
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