Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:27 AM - Re: Dimensions of CH701 (secatur)
2. 05:29 AM - Re: Dimensions of CH701 (Tommy Walker)
3. 06:23 AM - Re: CH 801 drawing list for jigs (C Smith)
4. 07:40 AM - Belt adjustment (LRM)
5. 08:42 AM - Re: Canopy fitting, etc. (Bill Naumuk)
6. 08:44 AM - canopy crack (john butterfield)
7. 09:13 AM - Re: canopy crack (Randy Stout)
8. 10:35 AM - Re: canopy crack (David Downey)
9. 10:35 AM - Re: canopy crack (Bryan Martin)
10. 10:38 AM - Re: canopy crack (Dave Austin)
11. 11:01 AM - Re: Canopy fitting, etc. (Milburn Reed)
12. 11:03 AM - Refurbishing Used Clecos (Dave VanLanen)
13. 11:33 AM - Flight Stories (ZodieRocket)
14. 11:33 AM - Re: Refurbishing Used Clecos (George Swinford)
15. 12:32 PM - Re: CH 801 drawing list for jigs (Dave Ruddiman)
16. 12:37 PM - Re: Dimensions of CH701 (Milburn Reed)
17. 12:39 PM - Re: Refurbishing Used Clecos (Jaybannist@cs.com)
18. 01:17 PM - Re: Refurbishing Used Clecos (Ryan Vechinski)
19. 01:32 PM - Re: Refurbishing Used Clecos (Edward Moody II)
20. 03:00 PM - Sheet Metal Arrival condition (Ryan Vechinski)
21. 03:22 PM - Re: Sheet Metal Arrival condition (LarryMcFarland)
22. 03:24 PM - Re: Refurbishing Used Clecos (Administrator)
23. 03:27 PM - Re: Sheet Metal Arrival condition (Administrator)
24. 03:41 PM - Re: Zenith-List - Corvair Engines 64 vs 65-69 (P.H. Raker)
25. 03:48 PM - Re: Sheet Metal Arrival condition (Bill Naumuk)
26. 05:26 PM - Re: Sheet Metal Arrival condition (Ryan Vechinski)
27. 05:50 PM - Proficiency maneuver? (LarryMcFarland)
28. 05:50 PM - Re: Dimensions of CH701 (Ken Arnold)
29. 06:17 PM - Re: Belt adjustment (n801bh@netzero.com)
30. 06:29 PM - Re: Proficiency maneuver? (MacDonald Doug)
31. 06:40 PM - Re: Proficiency maneuver? (NYTerminat@aol.com)
32. 06:42 PM - Re: Proficiency maneuver? (NYTerminat@aol.com)
33. 06:46 PM - Re: Proficiency maneuver? (Edward Moody II)
34. 06:57 PM - Re: Proficiency maneuver? (Skip Perry)
35. 07:01 PM - Re: Sheet Metal Arrival condition (Aaron Gustafson)
36. 07:09 PM - Re: Proficiency maneuver? (Noel Loveys)
37. 07:18 PM - Re: Proficiency maneuver? (Ron Lendon)
38. 07:21 PM - Re: Re: Zenith-List - Corvair Engines 64 vs 65-69 (Husky Larry J)
39. 07:22 PM - Re: Proficiency maneuver? (NYTerminat@aol.com)
40. 08:53 PM - Re: Refurbishing Used Clecos (Dabusmith@aol.com)
41. 09:25 PM - Re: Proficiency maneuver? (Paul Mulwitz)
42. 10:06 PM - Re: Proficiency maneuver? (Bryan Martin)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Dimensions of CH701 |
Ken, Attached picture of my 701 trailer, built before the kit arrived and used
to haul the kit box 60 km home.
If you want the plans, I can email them to you. Cost me $950 Aud to build
Regards,
Steve in Perth
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=86005#86005
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/trailer_213.jpg
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Dimensions of CH701 |
Ken,
Mine is about 18' 3"
I have a Rotax 912 with Warp Prop and short bull-nose type spinner.
Tommy Walker in Alabama
Do Not Archive
Message 3
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| Subject: | CH 801 drawing list for jigs |
As of now, I'm just signed up for the March rudder class. I haven't placed
any orders yet. I plan to build by the component sub-assembly kit. No need
to scan any docs for me, I just wanted the drawing title. I downloaded all
the PDFs I could from the zenith site, so if the dwg for the slat jig wasn't
in the public section that's the only one I'll need. Don't need the rudder
jig because I'll be building that one at the factory. On the other hand, the
jig might just be a good support for safe storage/transport of the rudder.
Thanks for the reply. How many hours have you got invested so far? Sounds
like you're building along the same lines I plan to.
Craig Smith
Future 801 builder
_____
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Ruddiman
Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2007 6:20 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: CH 801 drawing list for jigs
Craig,
Did you buy the whole kit, or some components? When are you scheduled for
delivery? I have completed the slats, flaps, rudder, right wing and am
finishing the left one. Fuselage kit scheduled for delivery in 2 or 3 weeks.
The only jigs you need are for the slats and rudder. I'll see if I can
figure out my scanner again.
Dave in Salem
801
----- Original Message -----
From: C <mailto:pilot4profit@sbcglobal.net> Smith
Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2007 7:02 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: CH 801 drawing list for jigs
This is probably a pretty tough request, but any one with CH 801 experience
know which drawings have jig patterns, and or are the jigs supplied with the
kit or builder fabricated?
I just wanted to get a head start on jigs, if the components are not
supplied with the kits.
Thanks
Craig Smith
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List">http://www.matronhref
"http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
Message 4
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I've sent this message twice to the list. It hasn't bounced, but also
hasn't appeared. Don't know what's going on.
Anyway, check out my new page on belt adjustments,
www.skyhawg.com/belt.html.
Larry, www.SkyHawg.com, N1345L
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy fitting, etc. |
Mark-
The sad thing is, how much more good stuff is buried in the
Matronics archives that never made it to CH601? Some of us don't have
the time to "Sift for gold". There's nothing more frustrating than to
fight your way through a procedure and have another lister say, "That
was in the archives".
You just indicated that you're relying on Matronics posters to
provide information "Funding" CH601/701 and that "Having postings
organized to some degree" was beneficial.That's the point I'm trying to
make- fix problems as far upstream as you can. Do a better job of
organizing the Matronics archives.Your job managing CH601/701 would be
much easier if all you had to do was download the Matronics "TR" file
and you'd have the creme de la creme of our postings. It would also be a
lot easier for us to retrieve information.
There are a ton of posters with IT backgrounds who could offer more
practical advice than I can, and I'll leave it at that.
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: ZodieRocket
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2007 7:47 PM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Canopy fitting, etc.
Though, I=92m not as fast as I used to be if I get sent anything sent
to me I upload it to the websites. Sometimes I go after pieces and ask
for permission but as a rule most people send them to me ahead of time.
The Canopy installation is in the Builders Resources section under
Zodiac 601. For everyone else please send flight or building stories and
helpful tips for the websites.
Mark Townsend Alma, Ontario
Zodiac 601XL C-GOXL, CH701 just started
www.ch601.org / www.ch701.com/ www.Osprey2.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Naumuk
Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2007 7:16 PM
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Canopy fitting, etc.
Mark-
Are they readily available through these sites? If so, I was
unaware.
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: ZodieRocket
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2007 6:31 PM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Canopy fitting, etc.
Bill this is Exactly why www.ch601.org and www.ch701.com were
created. Though it is nice to have them in the archives , putting these
nuggets in a website that is accessible for all and organized to some
degree is far more beneficial.
Mark Townsend Alma, Ontario
Zodiac 601XL C-GOXL, CH701 just started
www.ch601.org / www.ch701.com/ www.Osprey2.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Naumuk
Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2007 10:44 AM
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Subject: Zenith-List: Canopy fitting, etc.
All-
The ability to add pictures to posts has greatly increased the
value of the list. The problem with the archives is that all the
necessary information to complete a task is dispersed. I'm just as
guilty as anyone when it comes to sharing progress real-time, but I've
noticed a number of complete "Technical Reports" in the past few months
such as Eric's that give all the information to complete a complex task
in one location. (The Home Depot bending brake, Gary Boothe's flanging
dies, my procedure for installing HDS gearbox bolts and God knows how
many more buried in the great archive dumpster).
Creation and posting of these compilations is the greatest
contribution a lister can make, but everyone else is at a loss as to how
to easily retrieve them from the archives. I save them in a personal
"Keepers" file, but I trust the Matronics database more than my hard
drive.Thus, my suggestion:
Matt, could you create a file for Technical Reports and assign a
posting password? In other words, when a lister like Eric posts his
compilation he types at the bottom, say, "TR Archive-Canopy" (Sort of on
the same lines as "Do not archive")? Then, listers would have easy
access to complete procedures. It wouldn't hurt to make this applicable
to existing archive files. If someone comes across one of these posting
gems while rummaging through the dumpster, he can make it easily
accessable.
What do you think, people?
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
- The Zenith-List Email Forum - -->
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List - NEW
MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - --> http://forums.matronics.com
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11:11 AM
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href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
- The Zenith-List Email Forum - -->
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Message 6
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hi list
i was drilling holes for my canopy and noticed a small
hireline crack coming out of one of them. it is about
one inch long and i am wondering if i should drill a
small hole at the end of it before i use the step
drill to enlarge it for final fitting. is seems that
there is only one and is there anything else i should
do to keep it from getting bigger. how about glue or
some other remedial effort
thanks for all the answers to my other last minute
questions as i was about 90 percent done and am
rapidly moving towards 80 percent.
john butterfield
601XL corvari
torrance, ca
__________________________________________________
Message 7
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Stop drill it before it gets any worse. I had a couple of cracks on mine
when I installed it. I used a 1/16" bit to stop drill it at the very end of
the crack. Make sure the bit is dull and go easy on it while drilling. You
almost want to burn the hole through rather than cut it. Then get some
acrylic glue and let it wick through the crack. When you install your
screws, only tighten enough that the finishing washer does not move. Any
more and you will have another crack.
Randy Stout
San Antonio TX
n282rs at satx.rr.com
www.geocities.com/r5t0ut21
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of john
butterfield
Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2007 10:44 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: canopy crack
--> <jdbutterfield@yahoo.com>
hi list
i was drilling holes for my canopy and noticed a small
hireline crack coming out of one of them. it is about
one inch long and i am wondering if i should drill a
small hole at the end of it before i use the step
drill to enlarge it for final fitting. is seems that
there is only one and is there anything else i should
do to keep it from getting bigger. how about glue or
some other remedial effort
thanks for all the answers to my other last minute
questions as i was about 90 percent done and am
rapidly moving towards 80 percent.
john butterfield
601XL corvari
torrance, ca
__________________________________________________
Message 8
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Gentlemen;
There is a better way: Use drill bits designed to drill acrylic. Their end geometry
is different than "normal" bits.
Randy Stout <n282rs@satx.rr.com> wrote:
Stop drill it before it gets any worse. I had a couple of cracks on mine
when I installed it. I used a 1/16" bit to stop drill it at the very end of
the crack. Make sure the bit is dull and go easy on it while drilling. You
almost want to burn the hole through rather than cut it. Then get some
acrylic glue and let it wick through the crack. When you install your
screws, only tighten enough that the finishing washer does not move. Any
more and you will have another crack.
Randy Stout
San Antonio TX
n282rs at satx.rr.com
www.geocities.com/r5t0ut21
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of john
butterfield
Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2007 10:44 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: canopy crack
-->
hi list
i was drilling holes for my canopy and noticed a small
hireline crack coming out of one of them. it is about
one inch long and i am wondering if i should drill a
small hole at the end of it before i use the step
drill to enlarge it for final fitting. is seems that
there is only one and is there anything else i should
do to keep it from getting bigger. how about glue or
some other remedial effort
thanks for all the answers to my other last minute
questions as i was about 90 percent done and am
rapidly moving towards 80 percent.
john butterfield
601XL corvari
torrance, ca
__________________________________________________
Dave Downey
Harleysville (SE) PA
__________________________________________________
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: canopy crack |
Drill a small hole at the end of the crack to stop it from getting
any longer. Then a little methylene chloride (the main ingredient for
most acrylic glues) applied to the crack with a syringe will fuse the
edges together. Wipe up any excess immediately and try not to
breathe the vapors. Some people have used liquid super-glue with good
results also. If the crack is to be covered up under the flashing,
you may not need the glue.
Check the archives for more suggestions. it has come up many times
before on the list.
On Jan 7, 2007, at 11:44 AM, john butterfield wrote:
> i was drilling holes for my canopy and noticed a small
> hireline crack coming out of one of them. it is about
> one inch long and i am wondering if i should drill a
> small hole at the end of it before i use the step
> drill to enlarge it for final fitting. is seems that
> there is only one and is there anything else i should
> do to keep it from getting bigger. how about glue or
> some other remedial effort
>
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: canopy crack |
John,
My canopy developed several hairline cracks as you describe. I stop-drilled
each one with a blunt drill and then added a dab of Polyzap. 14 years old
and still flying. They do look a bit ugly though.
Dave Austin 601HDS - 912, Spitfire Mk VIII
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy fitting, etc. |
Yes, please do, then tell us old and computer challenged how to
retrieved such items.
Mil
Message 12
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| Subject: | Refurbishing Used Clecos |
I previously bought some used #20 (black) clecos for my project. As I am
now using them, I noticed that a few of them are a little rusty and don't
work very smoothly. Can I soak them in WD-40 to refurbish them? Would this
cause any issues with the aluminum when using them? Or does someone have a
better idea (other than tossing them)?
Thanks,
Dave Van Lanen
Madison, WI
601XL - Stabilizer
Do Not Archive
Message 13
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Hey guys, if you=92re looking for a great story about flying a 701 over
long distance and mountains head over to HYPERLINK
"http://www.ch701.com/stories/stories.htm"http://www.ch701.com/stories/s
tories.htm
If you=92re not working in your shop, then this beats sitting in front
of
the television. I have included the first paragraph below, the story is
loaded with great pictures as well.
=93I had been lying awake for some time, filled with anticipation of the
long cross-country flight that would begin at daybreak. I would be
flying to Casa Grande, Arizona home of the EAA=92s annual Copperstate
Fly-in. As I waited for the alarm to signal five a.m., my mind was going
through the details of last-minute preparations. To avoid forgetting, I
had taped the keys belonging to my experimental airplane, a Zenith STOL
CH-701, to the I-com portable so that I wouldn=92t take off with my
back-up radio still sitting in the charger at the rear of my workbench.
After going through the list of things not to forget several more times,
my mind switched to the VFR routing that I had worked out the night
before. I would be stopping only twice. The trip would be divided into
three, three-hour legs. Beyond the first fuel stop there would be the
mountains. My mind switched again. The last weather check before I went
to bed included an AIRMET for moderate turbulence over high terrain. I
would be traversing lots of high terrain.=94
Mark Townsend Alma, Ontario
Zodiac 601XL C-GOXL, CH701 just started
HYPERLINK "http://www.ch601.org"www.ch601.org / HYPERLINK
"http://www.ch701.com"www.ch701.com/ HYPERLINK
"http://www.Osprey2.com"www.Osprey2.com
do not archive
--
7:47 PM
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Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Refurbishing Used Clecos |
Refurbishing Used ClecosDave:
If WD-40 causes problems with aluminum I'm in deep trouble! Seriously,
I spray the "sticky" ones with the stuff and they work fine.
George
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave VanLanen
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2007 11:02 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Refurbishing Used Clecos
I previously bought some used #20 (black) clecos for my project. As I
am now using them, I noticed that a few of them are a little rusty and
don't work very smoothly. Can I soak them in WD-40 to refurbish them?
Would this cause any issues with the aluminum when using them? Or does
someone have a better idea (other than tossing them)?
Thanks,
Dave Van Lanen
Madison, WI
601XL - Stabilizer
Do Not Archive
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
1/6/2007 7:47 PM
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: CH 801 drawing list for jigs |
Craig,
I don't keep track of hours. I do keep track of what I did in Kitlog. My
shop is behind my house, so when I work on the airplane I am going back
and forth a lot. It's to hard to keep track of actual time, plus I don't
bother with it. I don't really care how long it takes to do a certain
part. I admire those that do. I started the rudder on 3/23/06 and
finished on 5/17/06. The rudder really only takes about 10 hours or so.
Flaperons and slats 5/27/06 through 7/23/06. Wings started on 7/31/06
and should be done in a couple of weeks. I also built a new slat section
during the wing time. I didn't like the way 1 piece came out. I primered
everything out of the box except the outside skins. Some of the time I
worked late in the evening, some times during the day, a few weekends.
My time is pretty random. If you haven't built before, there is one
piece of advise I would give you. Try to do something each day. It can
be looking at the plans, cutting something, deburring or anything else.
It keeps your motivation up and anything you do is something towards
finishing the plane. Also, if you read this list there is a lot of good
information and at times it can be very entertaining.
Good Luck'
Dave in Salem
----- Original Message -----
From: C Smith
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2007 6:22 AM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: CH 801 drawing list for jigs
As of now, I'm just signed up for the March rudder class. I haven't
placed any orders yet. I plan to build by the component sub-assembly
kit. No need to scan any docs for me, I just wanted the drawing title. I
downloaded all the PDFs I could from the zenith site, so if the dwg for
the slat jig wasn't in the public section that's the only one I'll need.
Don't need the rudder jig because I'll be building that one at the
factory. On the other hand, the jig might just be a good support for
safe storage/transport of the rudder.
Thanks for the reply. How many hours have you got invested so far?
Sounds like you're building along the same lines I plan to.
Craig Smith
Future 801 builder
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave
Ruddiman
Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2007 6:20 PM
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: CH 801 drawing list for jigs
Craig,
Did you buy the whole kit, or some components? When are you scheduled
for delivery? I have completed the slats, flaps, rudder, right wing and
am finishing the left one. Fuselage kit scheduled for delivery in 2 or 3
weeks. The only jigs you need are for the slats and rudder. I'll see if
I can figure out my scanner again.
Dave in Salem
801
----- Original Message -----
From: C Smith
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2007 7:02 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: CH 801 drawing list for jigs
This is probably a pretty tough request, but any one with CH 801
experience know which drawings have jig patterns, and or are the jigs
supplied with the kit or builder fabricated?
I just wanted to get a head start on jigs, if the components are not
supplied with the kits.
Thanks
Craig Smith
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List">http://www.matron
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Dimensions of CH701 |
My 701 fuse measures 13 ' (156') from aft end of logerons to the forward
wing bracket, this line 67" above the floor when on the wheels. Another
2' +/-from this forward bracket to the firewall rivet line.
I'm glad you asked because I have a couple of easy questions.
1. What engine should I buy to put on the front of this machine? I will
just be flying for pleasure, and alone around the pasture. The problem
is that I planned to take 2 or 3 years to build and by that time I would
have sold a 160 acre parcel here in the Sierras, or at least work a jab
2200 into my budget, but the selling is going slower than expected and
the building is going much faster than expected. Less than a year on the
project now and waiting for the wings kit (last part save engine). Also
finished up my 1200' pasture/strip and designed and built a 40' x 26'
hanger (Son Brad drove most all the nails). I bought a harbor freight
nail gun but it was more trouble than it was worth. Yep, some of it is
junk, but you can't beat the price. Actually I like their palm mailer,
light and easy to work.
I figured the Jab. 2200 would cost $15 K FWF--- Rotax 4 stroke
$20K.-----What about The Rotax 2 stroke engines? I would like to keep it
light.
Aren't the auto conversion heavy? I'm more of a farm shop equipment
mechanic so I best buy an aircraft engine.
2. I forgot---get you next time.
Mil
Message 17
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| Subject: | Refurbishing Used Clecos |
Dave, I had a problem with NEW clecoes: some of them (all A4s) would not retract
properly. Several listers suggested soaking them in oil overnight. I soaked
them for weeks. They are still in oil and still don't work. I suggest that
you just toss them.
Jay in Dallas
do not archive
"Dave VanLanen" <davevanlanen@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>I previously bought some used #20 (black) clecos for my project. As I am
>now using them, I noticed that a few of them are a little rusty and don't
>work very smoothly. Can I soak them in WD-40 to refurbish them? Would this
>cause any issues with the aluminum when using them? Or does someone have a
>better idea (other than tossing them)?
>
>Thanks,
>Dave Van Lanen
>Madison, WI
>601XL - Stabilizer
>
>Do Not Archive
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Refurbishing Used Clecos |
I got a set of used clecoes myself, and I used that "3-in-1" household oil.
I put a couple of drops on the nose of the cleco while I had it extended
with cleco pliers. The oil wicked into the inside, and I kept working them
back and forth with the pliers. Most of them loosened up and I can use th
em. The rest I tossed. For me it was better than tossing the whole bunch.
I do occasionally get oil on my parts, but I just wipe it up.
Ryan Vechinski
Wisconsin Rapids, WI
701-starting wings
> Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2007 15:37:49 -0500> From: Jaybannist@cs.com> To: zenith
-list@matronics.com> Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Refurbishing Used Clecos> >
em with NEW clecoes: some of them (all A4s) would not retract properly. Sev
eral listers suggested soaking them in oil overnight. I soaked them for wee
ks. They are still in oil and still don't work. I suggest that you just tos
s them.> > Jay in Dallas> do not archive> > > "Dave VanLanen" <davevanlanen
@sbcglobal.net> wrote:> > >I previously bought some used #20 (black) clecos
for my project. As I am> >now using them, I noticed that a few of them are
a little rusty and don't> >work very smoothly. Can I soak them in WD-40 to
refurbish them? Would this> >cause any issues with the aluminum when using
them? Or does someone have a> >better idea (other than tossing them)?> >>
>Thanks,> >Dave Van Lanen> >Madison, WI> >601XL - Stabilizer> >> >Do Not Ar
===============> > >
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Refurbishing Used Clecos |
When I get oil on my parts, I just relax and enjoy it.
Ed
Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Ryan Vechinski
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2007 3:15 PM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Refurbishing Used Clecos
I got a set of used clecoes myself, and I used that "3-in-1" household
oil. I put a couple of drops on the nose of the cleco while I had it
extended with cleco pliers. The oil wicked into the inside, and I kept
working them back and forth with the pliers. Most of them loosened up
and I can use them. The rest I tossed. For me it was better than
tossing the whole bunch. I do occasionally get oil on my parts, but I
just wipe it up.
Ryan Vechinski
Wisconsin Rapids, WI
701-starting wings
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
> Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2007 15:37:49 -0500
> From: Jaybannist@cs.com
> To: zenith-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Refurbishing Used Clecos
>
>
> Dave, I had a problem with NEW clecoes: some of them (all A4s) would
not retract properly. Several listers suggested soaking them in oil
overnight. I soaked them for weeks. They are still in oil and still
don't work. I suggest that you just toss them.
>
> Jay in Dallas
> do not archive
>
>
> "Dave VanLanen" <davevanlanen@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
> >I previously bought some used #20 (black) clecos for my project. As
I am
> >now using them, I noticed that a few of them are a little rusty and
don't
> >work very smoothly. Can I soak them in WD-40 to refurbish them?
Would this
> >cause any issues with the aluminum when using them? Or does someone
have a
> >better idea (other than tossing them)?
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Dave Van Lanen
> >Madison, WI
> >601XL - Stabilizer
> >
> >Do N====
>
>
>
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
1/6/2007 7:47 PM
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Sheet Metal Arrival condition |
I don't intend this email to be a supplier debate, thus I will leave out wh
ere I got my sheet metal from. My question is, what is the generally accep
ted condition of aircraft metal that should arrive at your door from an air
craft supplier? I received a sheet of 4' x 12' x .025" 6061, and there are
numerous scratches, about 1/4" long on it. I realize that in handling tha
t will happen on smaller pieces, but they didn't need to cut this piece. T
hey are deep enough to get your fingernail in. Normally I would just polis
h them out, but I will be making my spars out of them. I will be asking my
supplier about this, but today is Sunday, and I was just wondering if anyo
ne had something to say about this.
Ryan Vechinski
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Sheet Metal Arrival condition |
Ryan,
When I received my .016 material, several sheets were delivered with
heel marks across mid and end sections. Air Parts Kansas packed and
sent these and there were no heel marks in the cardboard coverings
either side. I should have required they exchange the sheets, but
received a discount in protest. One heel mark showed up on my
stabilizer which was replaced. I'd recommend you return the material
for full refund and start over with another supplier.
Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
do not archive
Ryan Vechinski wrote:
> I don't intend this email to be a supplier debate, thus I will leave
> out where I got my sheet metal from. My question is, what is the
> generally accepted condition of aircraft metal that should arrive at
> your door from an aircraft supplier? I received a sheet of 4' x 12' x
> .025" 6061, and there are numerous scratches, about 1/4" long on it.
> I realize that in handling that will happen on smaller pieces, but
> they didn't need to cut this piece. They are deep enough to get your
> fingernail in. Normally I would just polish them out, but I will be
> making my spars out of them. I will be asking my supplier about this,
> but today is Sunday, and I was just wondering if anyone had something
> to say about this.
>
> Ryan Vechinski
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Re: Refurbishing Used Clecos |
LOL, it would sure be boring around here without Ed!
Edward Moody II <dredmoody@cox.net> wrote: P { PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT:
0px; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0px; MARGIN: 0px; PADDING-TOP: 0px } BODY { FONT-SIZE:
10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Tahoma } When I get oil on my parts, I just relax and
enjoy it.
Ed
Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Ryan Vechinski
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2007 3:15 PM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Refurbishing Used Clecos
I got a set of used clecoes myself, and I used that "3-in-1" household oil.
I put a couple of drops on the nose of the cleco while I had it extended with
cleco pliers. The oil wicked into the inside, and I kept working them
back and forth with the pliers. Most of them loosened up and I can use them.
The rest I tossed. For me it was better than tossing the whole bunch.
I do occasionally get oil on my parts, but I just wipe it up.
Ryan Vechinski
Wisconsin Rapids, WI
701-starting wings
---------------------------------
> Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2007 15:37:49 -0500
> From: Jaybannist@cs.com
> To: zenith-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Refurbishing Used Clecos
>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Jaybannist@cs.com
>
> Dave, I had a problem with NEW clecoes: some of them (all A4s) would not retract
properly. Several listers suggested soaking them in oil overnight. I
soaked them for weeks. They are still in oil and still don't work. I suggest
that you just toss them.
>
> Jay in Dallas
> do not archive
>
>
> "Dave VanLanen" <davevanlanen@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
> >I previously bought some used #20 (black) clecos for my project. As I am
> >now using them, I noticed that a few of them are a little rusty and don't
> >work very smoothly. Can I soak them in WD-40 to refurbish them? Would this
> >cause any issues with the aluminum when using them? Or does someone have
a
> >better idea (other than tossing them)?
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Dave Van Lanen
> >Madison, WI
> >601XL - Stabilizer
> >
> >Do N====
>
>
>
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List">http://www.matronhref="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
---------------------------------
Date: 1/6/2007 7:47 PM
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Sheet Metal Arrival condition |
We order hundreds of sheets a week from multiple suppliers around here, and
we still see about 10% of them in the condition that you describe. Some of the
damage happens in transit, some on the flattening line, and some at the mill.
You can try to grit your teeth and get used to it, or order the material
with vinyl on both sides (about 7 cents per square foot additional cost, but
well worth it).
Ryan Vechinski <brothapig@HOTMAIL.COM> wrote: P { margin:0px; padding:0px }
body { FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY:Tahoma } I don't intend this email to be
a supplier debate, thus I will leave out where I got my sheet metal from. My
question is, what is the generally accepted condition of aircraft metal that should
arrive at your door from an aircraft supplier? I received a sheet of 4'
x 12' x .025" 6061, and there are numerous scratches, about 1/4" long on it.
I realize that in handling that will happen on smaller pieces, but they didn't
need to cut this piece. They are deep enough to get your fingernail in. Normally
I would just polish them out, but I will be making my spars out of them.
I will be asking my supplier about this, but today is Sunday, and I was just
wondering if anyone had something to say about this.
Ryan Vechinski
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Re: Zenith-List - Corvair Engines 64 vs 65-69 |
> I'm finding 1964 engines out there. I'm having zero
>luck finding anything newer within a days driving distance.
>Should I go with a 1964, or wait and keep looking for the less common
>1965-69...?
>
Hello, Patrick,
The advice to get William Wynn's Book on aircraft conversion of
Corvair engines is excellent. I agree.
That said, based on my limited knowledge of Corvair engines (I'm
also a 'Vair owner and CORSA member), if the 64 has the right crank and
heads, it should be identical to the 65-69 engines for your purposes.
All 64s were 164ci displacement, same as all built after that. Most of
the external stuff that's different between the 64 and Late Model 'Vair
engines, you won't use in an aircraft conversion anyway.
Phil Raker N556P HDS/Stratus ~85% completed
__________________________________________________
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Sheet Metal Arrival condition |
Ryan-
1/4" scratches are nothing- I've had sheets of .025 come in with
heel marks such as described by Larry. I was able to work around them
for the parts I needed, so I kept the sheets. I suppose by rights I
should have returned them, but that would have meant another week of no
progress.
Your choice....
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: Ryan Vechinski
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2007 5:56 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Sheet Metal Arrival condition
I don't intend this email to be a supplier debate, thus I will leave
out where I got my sheet metal from. My question is, what is the
generally accepted condition of aircraft metal that should arrive at
your door from an aircraft supplier? I received a sheet of 4' x 12' x
.025" 6061, and there are numerous scratches, about 1/4" long on it. I
realize that in handling that will happen on smaller pieces, but they
didn't need to cut this piece. They are deep enough to get your
fingernail in. Normally I would just polish them out, but I will be
making my spars out of them. I will be asking my supplier about this,
but today is Sunday, and I was just wondering if anyone had something to
say about this.
Ryan Vechinski
Message 26
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| Subject: | Sheet Metal Arrival condition |
I understand that things happen, and I'll let my supplier know about the si
tuation, but right now I think I'm just going to keep the sheets. It's too
much trouble to send it back, and, like you said, another week of no progr
ess.
I'm just worried about my spar. Will I need to polish out ALL evidence of
the scratches, or will smoothing them out do? (until I can no longer feel
them with my fingernail?)
Thanks for everyone's experiences and advice...very much appreciated.
Ryan Vechinski
From: naumuk@alltel.netTo: zenith-list@matronics.comSubject: Re: Zenith-Lis
t: Sheet Metal Arrival conditionDate: Sun, 7 Jan 2007 18:47:54 -0500
Ryan-
1/4" scratches are nothing- I've had sheets of .025 come in with heel m
arks such as described by Larry. I was able to work around them for the par
ts I needed, so I kept the sheets. I suppose by rights I should have return
ed them, but that would have meant another week of no progress.
Your choice....
Bill NaumukHDS FuselageTownville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: Ryan Vechinski
Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2007 5:56 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Sheet Metal Arrival condition
I don't intend this email to be a supplier debate, thus I will leave out wh
ere I got my sheet metal from. My question is, what is the generally accep
ted condition of aircraft metal that should arrive at your door from an air
craft supplier? I received a sheet of 4' x 12' x .025" 6061, and there are
numerous scratches, about 1/4" long on it. I realize that in handling tha
t will happen on smaller pieces, but they didn't need to cut this piece. T
hey are deep enough to get your fingernail in. Normally I would just polis
h them out, but I will be making my spars out of them. I will be asking my
supplier about this, but today is Sunday, and I was just wondering if anyo
ne had something to say about this. Ryan Vechinski
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List">http://www.matronhr
ef="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
Message 27
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| Subject: | Proficiency maneuver? |
Hi guys,
I was practicing a maneuver that seems to be popular in demonstrating
proficiency during a BFR or an aircraft check-flight. This is getting
20-degree flaps, maximum nose up under power, slowing to just above
stall, while doing a 360-degree turn seemingly on the tail and holding
altitude to within 100 feet. The 601HDS wants to keep climbing, but with
no flaps to use and some awkward wobbling, I managed to repeat it at
4000 feet. I've had to do this thing several times the last couple of
years to qualify in a Piper Warrior, complete a BFR in a C-150 and a
C-172. Practicing it alone is hardly worthwhile because when you add an
instructor the character of the effort changes, so it is something you
only get a feel for at the time it counts.
Does anyone have the name of this maneuver?
Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Re: Dimensions of CH701 |
Mil,
Many thanks for the measurements. Seems I will need about 20' trailer.
The trip from Florida to North Carolina is about 900 miles.
Sounds like your 701 project is going nicely. I went through the engine
analysis and got a head ache from all the data. I finally decided to
get a Rotax 912 ULS for my 701. The Jab 3300 was considered but it gets
its power at fairly high rpms. This is good for the Zodiac but not so
good for STOL 701. I am told the STOL needs big prop with lots of
torque turning less than 2800 rpm. This is especially true if you ever
put floats on it.
I looked at Continental and Lycoming but they are very heavy for the
701. Auto conversions are also viable. If you are a mechanic you can
do your own work. Anyway, after all this I decided the Rotax was best
for my mission. They are costly but I think the value of your 701 will
reflect its desirability. If you consider the 2 cycle engines, be aware
of the shorter time between overhaul. The Rotax 582 is a great engine
but has a relatively short TBO.
When I was in the decision making mode, I surveyed the Zenith list for
comments. I received a lot of responses that helped. You might also
survey the list for comments. There are a lot of different engine types
being installed. The respondents can indicate if post installation
support is adequate.
My mission will consist of local flying at the many private grass strips
in my neighborhood. I am surely anxious to compare my take-off roll
with Zenith's published 90' roll.
Thanks again Mil, keep us posted on your build progress.
Regards,
Ken Arnold
Pikeville, NC
CH701 on order
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Milburn Reed
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2007 3:33 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Dimensions of CH701
My 701 fuse measures 13 ' (156') from aft end of logerons to the
forward wing bracket, this line 67" above the floor when on the wheels.
Another 2' +/-from this forward bracket to the firewall rivet line.
I'm glad you asked because I have a couple of easy questions.
1. What engine should I buy to put on the front of this machine? I
will just be flying for pleasure, and alone around the pasture. The
problem is that I planned to take 2 or 3 years to build and by that time
I would have sold a 160 acre parcel here in the Sierras, or at least
work a jab 2200 into my budget, but the selling is going slower than
expected and the building is going much faster than expected. Less than
a year on the project now and waiting for the wings kit (last part save
engine). Also finished up my 1200' pasture/strip and designed and built
a 40' x 26' hanger (Son Brad drove most all the nails). I bought a
harbor freight nail gun but it was more trouble than it was worth. Yep,
some of it is junk, but you can't beat the price. Actually I like their
palm mailer, light and easy to work.
I figured the Jab. 2200 would cost $15 K FWF--- Rotax 4 stroke
$20K.-----What about The Rotax 2 stroke engines? I would like to keep it
light.
Aren't the auto conversion heavy? I'm more of a farm shop equipment
mechanic so I best buy an aircraft engine.
2. I forgot---get you next time.
Mil
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Re: Belt adjustment |
The article showed up on my puter the first time. I did read it and
it was a good general overview of cog belts. I can tell you the belt
on my beast acts ALOT differently then what was spelled out in the
info. The belts are bulletproof, it's the sprockets.bearings and other s
tuff
that try to kill ya. <G>
do not archive
Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
-- "LRM" <lrm@skyhawg.com> wrote:
I've sent this message twice to the list. It hasn't bounced, but also h
asn't appeared. Don't know what's going on. Anyway, check out my new pa
ge on belt adjustments, www.skyhawg.com/belt.html.
Larry, www.SkyHawg.com, N1345L
========================
========================
========================
========================
========================
<html><P>The article showed up on my puter the first time. I did read it
and<BR>it was a good general overview of cog belts. I can tell yo
u the belt<BR>on my beast acts ALOT differently then what was spelled ou
t in the<BR>info. The belts are bulletproof, it's the sprockets.bearings
and other stuff <BR> that try to kill ya. <G></P>
<P>do not archive<BR><BR><BR>Ben Haas<BR>N801BH<BR>www.haaspowerair
.com<BR><BR>-- "LRM" <lrm@skyhawg.com> wrote:<BR></
P><BASE href="file://C:\Program Files\Common Files\Microsoft Shared\St
ationery\">
<DIV>I've sent this message twice to the list. It hasn't bounced,
but also hasn't appeared. Don't know what's going on.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Anyway, check out my new page on belt adjustments, <A href="http:
//www.skyhawg.com/belt.html">www.skyhawg.com/belt.html</A>. </DIV>
<P><FONT size=4></FONT> </P>
<P><FONT face=Script size=6>Larry</FONT><FONT size=4>, www.SkyHawg
.com, N1345L</FONT></P><PRE><B><FONT face="courier new,courier" color=
#000000 size=2>
========================
===========
">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List</A>
========================
===========
tronics.com/</A>
========================
===========
</B></FONT></PRE>
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre></body></html>
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Proficiency maneuver? |
Yes Larry, the maneuver you described is "Slow
Flight". It is part of the Rec and Private flight
tests here in Canada as well. We don't typically make
360 deg turns but we do have to make at least one
turn. The point is so that you can recognize the
flight characteristics of the aircraft near the stall
condition
Doug MacDonald
Just finished my Priv Lic off
Canadian Ultralight Instructor
CH-701 Scratch Builder
NW Ontario, Canada
__________________________________________________
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Proficiency maneuver? |
In a message dated 1/7/2007 8:52:18 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
larry@macsmachine.com writes:
Hi guys,
I was practicing a maneuver that seems to be popular in demonstrating
proficiency during a BFR or an aircraft check-flight. This is getting
20-degree flaps, maximum nose up under power, slowing to just above
stall, while doing a 360-degree turn seemingly on the tail and holding
altitude to within 100 feet. The 601HDS wants to keep climbing, but with
no flaps to use and some awkward wobbling, I managed to repeat it at
4000 feet. I've had to do this thing several times the last couple of
years to qualify in a Piper Warrior, complete a BFR in a C-150 and a
C-172. Practicing it alone is hardly worthwhile because when you add an
instructor the character of the effort changes, so it is something you
only get a feel for at the time it counts.
Does anyone have the name of this maneuver?
Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | Re: Proficiency maneuver? |
Larry,
I have never heard of that for a BFR requirement, or any flight test.
Bob Spudis
N701ZX/912S/100hrs
do not archive
In a message dated 1/7/2007 8:52:18 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
larry@macsmachine.com writes:
Hi guys,
I was practicing a maneuver that seems to be popular in demonstrating
proficiency during a BFR or an aircraft check-flight. This is getting
20-degree flaps, maximum nose up under power, slowing to just above
stall, while doing a 360-degree turn seemingly on the tail and holding
altitude to within 100 feet. The 601HDS wants to keep climbing, but with
no flaps to use and some awkward wobbling, I managed to repeat it at
4000 feet. I've had to do this thing several times the last couple of
years to qualify in a Piper Warrior, complete a BFR in a C-150 and a
C-172. Practicing it alone is hardly worthwhile because when you add an
instructor the character of the effort changes, so it is something you
only get a feel for at the time it counts.
Does anyone have the name of this maneuver?
Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: Proficiency maneuver? |
Down on the Gulf Coast it's called the "Let's see if Gomer over-controls
and stalls before he sees it coming on" manuver.
My last BFR if had to fly a C-172 in straight flight and turns as
directed by the instructor while keeping the stall horn blowing the
whole time. It was fun. Then again we had a couple thousand feet AGL.
Ed
Do Not Archive
Do Not move the yoke abruptly near stall speed
----- Original Message -----
From: MacDonald Doug
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2007 8:28 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Proficiency maneuver?
<dougsnash@yahoo.com>
Yes Larry, the maneuver you described is "Slow
Flight". It is part of the Rec and Private flight
tests here in Canada as well. We don't typically make
360 deg turns but we do have to make at least one
turn. The point is so that you can recognize the
flight characteristics of the aircraft near the stall
condition
Doug MacDonald
Just finished my Priv Lic off
Canadian Ultralight Instructor
CH-701 Scratch Builder
NW Ontario, Canada
__________________________________________________
--
1/7/2007 6:29 PM
Message 34
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| Subject: | Proficiency maneuver? |
I have had to do that here in sunny Florida with the instructor all the
while barking orders or questions. I guess her plan is to see if I am easily
distracted!
Skip Perry - Ft. Myers
Do Not Archive
_____
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Edward Moody II
Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2007 9:46 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Proficiency maneuver?
Down on the Gulf Coast it's called the "Let's see if Gomer over-controls and
stalls before he sees it coming on" manuver.
My last BFR if had to fly a C-172 in straight flight and turns as directed
by the instructor while keeping the stall horn blowing the whole time. It
was fun. Then again we had a couple thousand feet AGL.
Ed
Do Not Archive
Do Not move the yoke abruptly near stall speed
----- Original Message -----
From: MacDonald Doug <mailto:dougsnash@yahoo.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2007 8:28 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Proficiency maneuver?
Yes Larry, the maneuver you described is "Slow
Flight". It is part of the Rec and Private flight
tests here in Canada as well. We don't typically make
360 deg turns but we do have to make at least one
turn. The point is so that you can recognize the
flight characteristics of the aircraft near the stall
condition
Doug MacDonald
Just finished my Priv Lic off
Canadian Ultralight Instructor
CH-701 Scratch Builder
NW Ontario, Canada nbsp; Features Subscriptions
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List">http://www.matron====
=================
bsp; available via
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
-- Date: 1/7/2007 6:29 PM
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: Sheet Metal Arrival condition |
Don't use it for your spar!!! What's longer, 2 weeks or eternity???
Worry might keep you alive, but only if you heed it.
----- Original Message -----
From: Ryan Vechinski
I understand that things happen, and I'll let my supplier know about
the situation, but right now I think I'm just going to keep the sheets.
It's too much trouble to send it back, and, like you said, another week
of no progress.
I'm just worried about my spar. Will I need to polish out ALL
evidence of the scratches, or will smoothing them out do? (until I can
no longer feel them with my fingernail?)
Message 36
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| Subject: | Proficiency maneuver? |
I did the 360 in reasonably still air and also in high winds at 5000' when I
was training. The hardest part was the plane was actually going backwards
head on to the wind.
Noel
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> MacDonald Doug
> Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2007 10:58 PM
> To: zenith-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Proficiency maneuver?
>
>
> <dougsnash@yahoo.com>
>
> Yes Larry, the maneuver you described is "Slow
> Flight". It is part of the Rec and Private flight
> tests here in Canada as well. We don't typically make
> 360 deg turns but we do have to make at least one
> turn. The point is so that you can recognize the
> flight characteristics of the aircraft near the stall
> condition
>
> Doug MacDonald
> Just finished my Priv Lic off
> Canadian Ultralight Instructor
> CH-701 Scratch Builder
> NW Ontario, Canada
>
>
> __________________________________________________
>
>
>
>
>
Message 37
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| Subject: | Re: Proficiency maneuver? |
Larry,
I just had transition training / flight review, from C172 to PA28-140 did the Slow
Flight turns you speak of. After it was all over and I passed the CFII asked
what the Piper flew like, I told him it flew just like an airplane. I was
really thinking it would be a lot different flying the low wing but it really
wasn't.
--------
Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
Corvair Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=86198#86198
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: Zenith-List - Corvair Engines 64 vs 65-69 |
I would go with the 64. If I had a 65 or newer next to a 64, I would
pick the one I thought to be in the best condition. I would however,
pull the top cover to verify the crank number on a 64. I believe there
was an early 60's model that had the same letters as a 64, but a much
different crank.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of P.H. Raker
Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2007 3:41 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Zenith-List - Corvair Engines 64 vs 65-69
> I'm finding 1964 engines out there. I'm having zero
>luck finding anything newer within a days driving distance.
>Should I go with a 1964, or wait and keep looking for the less common
>1965-69...?
>
Hello, Patrick,
The advice to get William Wynn's Book on aircraft conversion of
Corvair engines is excellent. I agree.
That said, based on my limited knowledge of Corvair engines (I'm
also a 'Vair owner and CORSA member), if the 64 has the right crank and
heads, it should be identical to the 65-69 engines for your purposes.
All 64s were 164ci displacement, same as all built after that. Most of
the external stuff that's different between the 64 and Late Model 'Vair
engines, you won't use in an aircraft conversion anyway.
Phil Raker N556P HDS/Stratus ~85% completed
__________________________________________________
Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: Proficiency maneuver? |
OHHHHHHHHHHHHHH, yes slow flight was and is checked during BFR's, You got me
distracted by saying standing on your tail.
Sorry
Bob Spudis
do not archive
In a message dated 1/7/2007 10:10:50 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
noelloveys@yahoo.ca writes:
> Yes Larry, the maneuver you described is "Slow
> Flight". It is part of the Rec and Private flight
> tests here in Canada as well.
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: Refurbishing Used Clecos |
>I previously bought some used #20 (black) clecos for my project. Can I soak
them in WD-40 to refurbish them?
Dave
If you plan to paint your aircraft you might consider an oil based
penetrant. Any silicone on your plane might be trouble when you start prepping
for
paint. Besides, I have had WD-40 turn to varnish and become sticky over time.
Dave Smith
N701XL
Message 41
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| Subject: | Re: Proficiency maneuver? |
Hi Larry,
Slow flight is a good test of a pilot's skills. I disagree with you
that practicing this while solo is a waste of time. The point is to
learn to control the speed (primarily with trim, but also with
elevator) and altitude (with throttle) while maintaining a given
altitude. The twist of doing a climbing turn or similar stuff is a
standard instrument training exercise but still a fine exercise to
perform solo. The point is to control the flight of the plane, not
to get used to particular throttle settings or control pressures.
I have flown dual with perhaps several dozen instructors and every
one had me do slow flight in one form or another. This is not limited to BFRs.
The only problem with doing these things solo is you need to avoid
aluminum clouds, so having a check pilot to look for traffic is a good idea.
Paul
XL fuselage
At 05:49 PM 1/7/2007, you wrote:
>Practicing it alone is hardly worthwhile because when you add an
>instructor the character of the effort changes, so it is something
>you only get a feel for at the time it counts.
-
Message 42
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| Subject: | Re: Proficiency maneuver? |
Minimum controllable airspeed?
In a message dated 1/7/2007 8:52:18 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
larry@macsmachine.com writes:
Hi guys,
I was practicing a maneuver that seems to be popular in demonstrating
proficiency during a BFR or an aircraft check-flight. This is getting
20-degree flaps, maximum nose up under power, slowing to just above
stall, while doing a 360-degree turn seemingly on the tail and holding
altitude to within 100 feet. The 601HDS wants to keep climbing, but with
no flaps to use and some awkward wobbling, I managed to repeat it at
4000 feet. I've had to do this thing several times the last couple of
years to qualify in a Piper Warrior, complete a BFR in a C-150 and a
C-172. Practicing it alone is hardly worthwhile because when you add an
instructor the character of the effort changes, so it is something you
only get a feel for at the time it counts.
Does anyone have the name of this maneuver?
Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
do not archive.
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