Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:03 AM - Re: position lights and strobes (Bill Naumuk)
2. 07:24 AM - Re: Re: Zenith-List Digest: 16 Msgs - 01/11/07 (Edward Moody II)
3. 07:30 AM - 701 Elevator Control Cable Routing ()
4. 08:34 AM - Re: 701 Elevator Control Cable Routing (JohnDRead@aol.com)
5. 09:17 AM - Ultimate Flight (Neitzel)
6. 10:45 AM - Cutting control cables? (Dr. Andrew Elliott)
7. 11:32 AM - Re: Re: Zenith-List Digest: 16 Msgs - 01/11/07 (Terry Phillips)
8. 11:41 AM - Re: Cutting control cables? (dj45)
9. 11:51 AM - Re: Cutting control cables? (C Smith)
10. 12:08 PM - Re: Re: Zenith-List Digest: 16 Msgs - 01/11/07 (Edward Moody II)
11. 12:13 PM - Re: Re: Zenith-List Digest: 16 Msgs - 01/11/07 (David Downey)
12. 12:14 PM - Re: Cutting control cables? (Jaybannist@cs.com)
13. 12:38 PM - Re: Cutting control cables? (Aaron Gustafson)
14. 01:22 PM - Re: Re: Zenith-List Digest: 16 Msgs - 01/11/07 (Terry Phillips)
15. 01:24 PM - Re: Cutting control cables? (Clyde Barcus)
16. 01:28 PM - Re: Cutting control cables? (NYTerminat@aol.com)
17. 01:57 PM - Re: Cutting control cables? (Bryan Martin)
18. 02:42 PM - Re: Cutting control cables? (George Race)
19. 03:41 PM - Metal to Metal Adehisive (Dave Ruddiman)
20. 03:59 PM - Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive (Bill Naumuk)
21. 04:27 PM - Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive (Craig Payne)
22. 05:29 PM - Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive (Paul Mulwitz)
23. 05:38 PM - Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive (Dave Ruddiman)
24. 05:43 PM - Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive (Dave Ruddiman)
25. 05:49 PM - Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive (Dave Ruddiman)
26. 06:03 PM - Painfully learned polishing tips (Bill Naumuk)
27. 06:05 PM - Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive (Bill Naumuk)
28. 06:07 PM - Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive (Craig Payne)
29. 06:10 PM - Indexing a row of holes (Jaybannist@cs.com)
30. 06:20 PM - Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive (Dave Ruddiman)
31. 06:24 PM - Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive (Dave Ruddiman)
32. 06:25 PM - Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive (NYTerminat@aol.com)
33. 06:33 PM - Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive (Brandon Tucker)
34. 06:33 PM - Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive (NYTerminat@aol.com)
35. 06:46 PM - Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive (Dave Ruddiman)
36. 06:49 PM - Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive (John Bolding)
37. 06:54 PM - Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive (Dave Ruddiman)
38. 06:56 PM - Rear wing spar measurement (ashontz)
39. 07:01 PM - Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive (NYTerminat@aol.com)
40. 07:06 PM - Re: Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive (Dave Ruddiman)
41. 07:11 PM - Re: Indexing a row of holes (Craig Payne)
42. 07:34 PM - Re: Rear wing spar measurement (Ron Lendon)
43. 07:54 PM - Re: Rear wing spar measurement (ashontz)
44. 07:58 PM - Re: Rear wing spar measurement (ashontz)
45. 08:27 PM - Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive (David Downey)
46. 08:36 PM - Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive (Dave Ruddiman)
47. 08:41 PM - Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive (Dave Ruddiman)
48. 08:56 PM - Re: Indexing a row of holes (Bill Naumuk)
49. 09:04 PM - Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive (Bill Naumuk)
50. 09:46 PM - Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive (Dave Ruddiman)
51. 10:21 PM - Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive (David Mikesell)
52. 11:08 PM - Re: Cutting control cables? (xl)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: position lights and strobes |
Re: Zenith-List: position lights and strobesAaron-
You might consider buying used. I got a full set of Whelan position
lights (Not strobes) from a Bonanza for $50.00, including new bulbs. For
strobes, I'll mount them well behind the cockpit belly and dorsal- that
way I can be seen but won't have them continually flashing in my field
of vision.
Wentworth had me sketch what I wanted them to look like (Teardrop),
and they sent back pictures of what they had in stock. Link attached.
Good building.
http://www.wentworthaircraft.com/home.htm
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: Aaron Gustafson
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, January 12, 2007 7:54 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: position lights and strobes
I'm looking for a white position light for my rudder. If anyone has
one they didn't use or a used one, please let me know and I'll buy it
from you.
Aaron gustafson do not archive
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Zenith-List Digest: 16 Msgs - 01/11/07 |
At the risk of sounding like a paid advocate (which I am not) the GS Air
package has a programmable strobe driver which allows you to use a
momentary switch on the stick or the panel to toggle through single,
double, triple, or quadruple flash settings inflight as the need arises.
The least power consumption is acheived on single flash. If you are not
in a high traffic area why waste the scant alternator power we have
available? Also GS Air's system uses only two LED position light units
(don't burn out and draw very little current) at the wingtips and has
documented satisfaction of the arcs of visibility for the DAR or FAA
guys when you certify your plane. We don't actually need a third light
on the rudder unless you just want one there.
Ed Moody II
----- Original Message -----
From: Ron Lendon
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, January 12, 2007 10:55 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Zenith-List Digest: 16 Msgs - 01/11/07
Carlos,
I just purchased the AeroFlash units from ACS, their PN: 11-04763
A little pricey $472.95, for the Double flash, 12V kit but I think it
will take care of all the lighting needs for position and nav, and the
Double flash strobes should help me be seen by others. The units are
light and all metal construction except the lenses and such.
--------
Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
Corvair Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=87231#87231
--
1/12/2007 2:04 PM
Message 3
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| Subject: | 701 Elevator Control Cable Routing |
701 Builders,
I'm helping a friend with his 701. His question is: What do I do about the
Elevator cables contacting each other in the aft fuselage area when rotating
the stick to the right as if applying full right Aileron? He mentioned
something about a Bungee called for in the plans ( Please note I am 160
miles from him and have not actually witnessed the "problem". )
I suggested that he should wait until the wings and Flaperons are installed
( which he is about to do ) and with a protractor installed to assure full
Flaperon travel and then see if there is an interference problem with the
cables contacting each other.
I understand this problem is caused by the geometry of the Elevator
bellcrank being mounted on the right side at the aft end of the control
stick.
Is this something to be concerned about or is it just a minor thing? Thanks
for your replys in advance.
do not archive
Jim Hoak 601HD- 912UL-538 hours.
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: 701 Elevator Control Cable Routing |
Hi Jim:
There is a bungee described in the drawings that is required to
prevent the cables from touching one another.
Regards, John Read
Building ch701 in Colorado
Message 5
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Greetings all,
The ultimate flight is indeed spectacular. Just a heads up though for those
like me that have dial up........took 2+15 to download!
Dick Neitzel
Sayner, WI
710 2200 Jab
do not archive
Message 6
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| Subject: | Cutting control cables? |
Gang:
Looking for good advise for cutting the control cables to length.
Interested in both measuring and cutting advise?
Anyone know if the $8 Harbor Freight "aviation cable cutters" 94449-3VGA
are actually suitable for cutting 1/8" steel cable?
Finally, I was planning on buying the $16.50 #2 screw-type swager from
Aircraft Spruce. (12-12000) Anyone have comments on usability. Anyone
have one they want to part with?
Thanks,
Andy Elliott, Mesa, AZ
N601GE (reserved)
601XL/TD/QB, Corvair, building...
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Zenith-List Digest: 16 Msgs - 01/11/07 |
I like the looks of the GS package myself, but I am concerned about
visibility from the rear. I am attaching a photo I took at ZAC of the left
wing time of the 601XL. The light is attached close to the front of the
wing on the fiberglass wing tip. It appears likely that the view of a wing
tip light from immediately behind the A/C would be obscured by the wing.
Probably, if one got far enough behind, the light could be seen. The
question is would it meet the requirements of FAR 23.1385-23.1397.
FAR 23.1389 states, in part:
=A7 23.1389 Position light distribution and intensities.
.....
(c) Rear position light installation. A single rear position light may be
installed in a position displaced laterally from the plane of symmetry of
an airplane if
(1) The axis of the maximum cone of illumination is parallel to the flight
path in level flight; and
(2) There is no obstruction aft of the light and between planes 70 degrees
to the right and left of the axis of maximum illumination.
FAR 23.1391 gives intensity requirements for position lights as:
=A7 23.1391 Minimum intensities in the horizontal plane of position
lights.
Each position light intensity must equal or exceed the applicable values in
the following table:
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Angle from right or
left of longitudinal Intensity
Dihedral angle (light included) axis, measured from (candles)
dead ahead
------------------------------------------------------------------------
L and R (red and green)............. 0=B0 to 10=B0..... 40
10=B0 to 20=B0.... 30
20=B0 to 110=B0... 5
A (rear white)...................... 110=B0 to 180=B0.. 20
------------------------------------------------------------------------
It appears to me that 23.1389 would allow wing tip light pairs whose
maximum intensity was straight aft with the +-70 deg visibility
requirements being supplied by the lights on either side of the plane.
However, the real question is, "At what distance behind the A/C must the
rear position light be visible?" Are we talking flight distances, which
should be at least a few hundred yards, or are we talking taxi distances
which could be a few 10's of feet? I don't know the answer, but this
question should be answered before one decides to leave off the tail light.
I understand that GS may have documented arcs of visibility, but I believe
that such arcs must be A/C dependent.
At 09:24 AM 1/13/2007 -0600, you wrote:
>At the risk of sounding like a paid advocate (which I am not) the GS Air
>package has a programmable strobe driver which allows you to use a
>momentary switch on the stick or the panel to toggle through single,
>double, triple, or quadruple flash settings inflight as the need arises.
>The least power consumption is acheived on single flash. If you are not in
>a high traffic area why waste the scant alternator power we have
>available? Also GS Air's system uses only two LED position light units
>(don't burn out and draw very little current) at the wingtips and has
>documented satisfaction of the arcs of visibility for the DAR or FAA guys
>when you certify your plane. We don't actually need a third light on the
>rudder unless you just want one there.
>
>Ed Moody II
Terry Phillips
ttp44~at~rkymtn.net
Corvallis MT
Just starting a 601 kit
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Cutting control cables? |
Andy,
Just use a cold chisel and hammer. Wrap masking tape around the spot you want too
cut and you will end up with a nice clean cut.
Also, that crimper works well with just a littel care.
--------
Do not archive
Dan Stanton
90% done 90% to go
801, Deltahawk Diesel
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=87359#87359
Message 9
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| Subject: | Cutting control cables? |
Don=92t have any experience with the cutter from HF, but as an
electrician, I
have to deal with safety cables all of the time on lighting and other
things
we hang from overheads. I use a tool called the Felco C7 from LCOS+CO of
Naples FLA. The cutting head is Swiss made steel, and is slightly
relieved
back toward the pivot. This allows it to partially =93cradle=94 the
cable
drawing it inward to the jaws as it cuts, whereas the one from HF
appears to
be a straight jaw model. I can=92t tell you where to buy them, as Ford
supplied them as part of our tools issue. Maybe you could google them.
Jaw
opens to =BC=94, and they last forever, been using mine for 10 yrs.
Craig Smith
Future 801 or 640 builder
_____
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dr. Andrew
Elliott
Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 1:40 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Cutting control cables?
Gang:
Looking for good advise for cutting the control cables to length.
Interested in both measuring and cutting advise?
Anyone know if the $8 Harbor Freight "aviation cable cutters" 94449-3VGA
<http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94449
>
are actually suitable for cutting 1/8" steel cable?
Finally, I was planning on buying the $16.50 #2 screw-type swager from
Aircraft Spruce. (12-12000) Anyone have comments on usability. Anyone
have
one they want to part with?
Thanks,
Andy Elliott, Mesa, AZ
N601GE (reserved)
601XL/TD/QB, Corvair, building...
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Zenith-List Digest: 16 Msgs - 01/11/07 |
If the plastic wingtips are mounted correctly the little flat area is
pretty much alighned with the long axis of the airplane. A light which
protrudes from that flat area will definitely be visible within 1200
feet of the front and rear of the plane as required by the FAA and
described on the Whelen site. That ought to take care of it but
redundancy is always an option to an experimental builder.
Ed
----- Original Message -----
From: Terry Phillips
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 1:27 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Re: Zenith-List Digest: 16 Msgs - 01/11/07
I like the looks of the GS package myself, but I am concerned about
visibility from the rear. I am attaching a photo I took at ZAC of the
left wing time of the 601XL. The light is attached close to the front of
the wing on the fiberglass wing tip. It appears likely that the view of
a wing tip light from immediately behind the A/C would be obscured by
the wing. Probably, if one got far enough behind, the light could be
seen. The question is would it meet the requirements of FAR
23.1385-23.1397.
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Zenith-List Digest: 16 Msgs - 01/11/07 |
>From the Whelen site: looks like the distance aft is 1200 feet? almost 1/4 mile?
Terry Phillips <ttp44@rkymtn.net> wrote: I like the looks of the GS package myself,
but I am concerned about visibility from the rear. I am attaching a photo
I took at ZAC of the left wing time of the 601XL. The light is attached close
to the front of the wing on the fiberglass wing tip. It appears likely that
the view of a wing tip light from immediately behind the A/C would be obscured
by the wing. Probably, if one got far enough behind, the light could be seen.
The question is would it meet the requirements of FAR 23.1385-23.1397.
FAR 23.1389 states, in part:
23.1389 Position light distribution and intensities....
(c) Rear position light installation. A single rear position light may be installed
in a position displaced laterally from the plane of symmetry of an airplane
if
(1) The axis of the maximum cone of illumination is parallel to the flight path
in level flight; and
(2) There is no obstruction aft of the light and between planes 70 degrees to the
right and left of the axis of maximum illumination.
FAR 23.1391 gives intensity requirements for position lights as:
23.1391 Minimum intensities in the horizontal plane of position lights.Each
position light intensity must equal or exceed the applicable values in the following
table:
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Angle from right or
left of longitudinal Intensity Dihedral angle (light
included) axis, measured from (candles)
dead ahead ------------------------------------------------------------------------
L and R (red and green)............. 0 to 10.....
40 10 to 20....
30 20 to 110... 5 A (rear
white)...................... 110 to 180.. 20 ------------------------------------------------------------------------
It appears to me that 23.1389 would allow wing tip light pairs whose maximum intensity
was straight aft with the +-70 deg visibility requirements being supplied
by the lights on either side of the plane. However, the real question is,
"At what distance behind the A/C must the rear position light be visible?" Are
we talking flight distances, which should be at least a few hundred yards, or
are we talking taxi distances which could be a few 10's of feet? I don't know
the answer, but this question should be answered before one decides to leave
off the tail light. I understand that GS may have documented arcs of visibility,
but I believe that such arcs must be A/C dependent.
At 09:24 AM 1/13/2007 -0600, you wrote:
At the risk of sounding like a paid advocate (which I am not) the GS Air package
has a programmable strobe driver which allows you to use a momentary switch
on the stick or the panel to toggle through single, double, triple, or quadruple
flash settings inflight as the need arises. The least power consumption is
acheived on single flash. If you are not in a high traffic area why waste the
scant alternator power we have available? Also GS Air's system uses only two
LED position light units (don't burn out and draw very little current) at the
wingtips and has documented satisfaction of the arcs of visibility for the DAR
or FAA guys when you certify your plane. We don't actually need a third light
on the rudder unless you just want one there.
Ed Moody II
Terry Phillips
ttp44~at~rkymtn.net
Corvallis MT
Just starting a 601 kit
Dave Downey
Harleysville (SE) PA
---------------------------------
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Message 12
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| Subject: | Cutting control cables? |
I have used the cable cutter that Aircraft Spruce sells and it works just fine.
It has the "relieved" cutting jaws as Craig has described them. I have also
used the AS "bolt action" cable sleeve crimper. It is a little more time consuming
than a ratchet type, but it works well on 1/8" cables. It didn't work
well on the small cable in the canopy latching system. I had one of those slip
loose. I replaced it, crimped it with the crimper then crimped it again with
pliers. It has held up OK (it is still exposed, so I check it now and then).
Jay in Dallas
Do not archive
"C Smith" <pilot4profit@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>Dont have any experience with the cutter from HF, but as an electrician, I
>have to deal with safety cables all of the time on lighting and other things
>we hang from overheads. I use a tool called the Felco C7 from LCOS+CO of
>Naples FLA. The cutting head is Swiss made steel, and is slightly relieved
>back toward the pivot. This allows it to partially cradle the cable
>drawing it inward to the jaws as it cuts, whereas the one from HF appears to
>be a straight jaw model. I cant tell you where to buy them, as Ford
>supplied them as part of our tools issue. Maybe you could google them. Jaw
>opens to , and they last forever, been using mine for 10 yrs.
>
>Craig Smith
>
>Future 801 or 640 builder
>
>
> _____
>
>From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dr. Andrew
>Elliott
>Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 1:40 PM
>To: Zenith-List Digest Server
>Subject: Zenith-List: Cutting control cables?
>
>
>Gang:
>
>
>Looking for good advise for cutting the control cables to length.
>Interested in both measuring and cutting advise?
>
>
>Anyone know if the $8 Harbor Freight "aviation cable cutters" 94449-3VGA
><http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94449>
>are actually suitable for cutting 1/8" steel cable?
>
>Finally, I was planning on buying the $16.50 #2 screw-type swager from
>Aircraft Spruce. (12-12000) Anyone have comments on usability. Anyone have
>one they want to part with?
>
>
>Thanks,
>
>Andy Elliott, Mesa, AZ
>N601GE (reserved)
>601XL/TD/QB, Corvair, building...
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Cutting control cables? |
For cutting the cables I have wrapped with tape then used a good
diagonal cutters. You hold it tight in the cutter then strike with a
hammer on the jaws on a good steel back up like a vise anvil.
Aaron do not archive
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Zenith-List Digest: 16 Msgs - 01/11/07 |
If 1200 ft is good enough for Whelan, it is good enough for me. The GS
package looks like the best way to go. Thank you for the input.
do not archive
Terry
At 02:07 PM 1/13/2007 -0600, you wrote:
>If the plastic wingtips are mounted correctly the little flat area is
>pretty much alighned with the long axis of the airplane. A light which
>protrudes from that flat area will definitely be visible within 1200 feet
>of the front and rear of the plane as required by the FAA and described on
>the Whelen site. That ought to take care of it but redundancy is always an
>option to an experimental builder.
>
>Ed
Terry Phillips
ttp44@rkymtn.net
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Cutting control cables? |
I taped it and cut with an abrasive cut off wheel, made a nice clean
cut.
Clyde Barcus
----- Original Message -----
From: C Smith
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 1:51 PM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Cutting control cables?
Don't have any experience with the cutter from HF, but as an
electrician, I have to deal with safety cables all of the time on
lighting and other things we hang from overheads. I use a tool called
the Felco C7 from LCOS+CO of Naples FLA. The cutting head is Swiss made
steel, and is slightly relieved back toward the pivot. This allows it to
partially "cradle" the cable drawing it inward to the jaws as it cuts,
whereas the one from HF appears to be a straight jaw model. I can't tell
you where to buy them, as Ford supplied them as part of our tools issue.
Maybe you could google them. Jaw opens to =BC", and they last forever,
been using mine for 10 yrs.
Craig Smith
Future 801 or 640 builder
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dr. Andrew
Elliott
Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 1:40 PM
To: Zenith-List Digest Server
Subject: Zenith-List: Cutting control cables?
Gang:
Looking for good advise for cutting the control cables to length.
Interested in both measuring and cutting advise?
Anyone know if the $8 Harbor Freight "aviation cable cutters"
94449-3VGA are actually suitable for cutting 1/8" steel cable?
Finally, I was planning on buying the $16.50 #2 screw-type swager from
Aircraft Spruce. (12-12000) Anyone have comments on usability. Anyone
have one they want to part with?
Thanks,
Andy Elliott, Mesa, AZ
N601GE (reserved)
601XL/TD/QB, Corvair, building...
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Cutting control cables? |
This is how I did it also.
Bob Spudis
do not archive
In a message dated 1/13/2007 4:26:19 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
barcusc@comcast.net writes:
I taped it and cut with an abrasive cut off wheel, made a nice clean cut.
Clyde Barcus
----- Original Message -----
From: _C Smith_ (mailto:pilot4profit@sbcglobal.net)
Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 1:51 PM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Cutting control cables?
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Cutting control cables? |
I wrapped mine in tape and used a cutoff wheel. I've even used this
method to trim the loose end off after swaging. I put a piece of
sheet metal between the loose end and the main cable to avoid
nicking the main cable while trimming. A pair of Klein diagonal
cutters should work on 1/8 cable also (the standard type not the
tapered jaw type).
I have no experience with the screw type swagers. I hear that they
work well enough but are time consuming and a bit awkward to use. You
can get a regular nicopress cable swager on Ebay for around $40-$50.
They are basically the same tool sold by ACS for $170. I have also
seen them in farm supply stores. You might be able to borrow a set
from your EAA chapter.
On Jan 13, 2007, at 1:40 PM, Dr. Andrew Elliott wrote:
> Gang:
>
> Looking for good advise for cutting the control cables to length.
> Interested in both measuring and cutting advise?
>
> Anyone know if the $8 Harbor Freight "aviation cable cutters"
> 94449-3VGA are actually suitable for cutting 1/8" steel cable?
> Finally, I was planning on buying the $16.50 #2 screw-type swager
> from Aircraft Spruce. (12-12000) Anyone have comments on
> usability. Anyone have one they want to part with?
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Cutting control cables? |
Another vote for the cold chisel, block of steel, and a good hammer. One
hit does it all, and nice and clean.
My EAA Chapter loaned me a nicopress tool. Most have then waiting to be
used.
Do not archive
George
Message 19
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| Subject: | Metal to Metal Adehisive |
Hi All,
I need some suggestions for sticking sticking aluminum to aluminum. I am
making some pieces to cover gaps in my skins that are a little larger
than I like. I would like to glue them on. They don't need to be
removable.
Thanks,
Dave in Salem.
It's nice to have a heated shop.
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive |
Dave-
Don't take this the wrong way- seek professional help before you
hurt someone.
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Ruddiman
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 6:40 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Metal to Metal Adehisive
Hi All,
I need some suggestions for sticking sticking aluminum to aluminum. I
am making some pieces to cover gaps in my skins that are a little larger
than I like. I would like to glue them on. They don't need to be
removable.
Thanks,
Dave in Salem.
It's nice to have a heated shop.
Message 21
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| Subject: | Metal to Metal Adehisive |
If you search the archives for the word "glue" you should find a thread
entitled "New thread, sticky subject
<http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=54072964?KEYS=gl
ue?LISTNAME=Zenith?HITNUMBER=18?SERIAL=1621479272?SHOWBUTTONS=NO> " starting
on Nov 16th, 2006. It was about bonding metal planes together. But I agree
that this is a place to proceed very cautiously. Even if you convince
yourself you will also have to convince whoever inspects your plane. And
those pieces could be very hard to remove if he objects.
-- Craig
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive |
Hi Dave,
I'm afraid glue doesn't work so well on aluminum. The standard way
to attach pieces of aluminum together is (would you believe it . . .
) rivets. Perhaps you should consider riveting some patches on your gaps.
Best regards,
Paul
do not archive
At 03:40 PM 1/13/2007, you wrote:
>Hi All,
>
>I need some suggestions for sticking sticking aluminum to aluminum.
>I am making some pieces to cover gaps in my skins that are a little
>larger than I like. I would like to glue them on. They don't need to
>be removable.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Dave in Salem.
>It's nice to have a heated shop.
---------------------------------------------
Paul Mulwitz
32013 NE Dial Road
Camas, WA 98607
---------------------------------------------
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive |
I DON'T NEED PROFESSIONAL HELP. I'M PERFECTLY FINE. WHEN I ASKED THE
VOICES IN MY HEAD IF I'M OK THEY SAY THERE IS ABSOLUTELY NOTHING WRONG
WITH ME, AND I AGREE.
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Naumuk
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 3:59 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Metal to Metal Adehisive
Dave-
Don't take this the wrong way- seek professional help before you
hurt someone.
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Ruddiman
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 6:40 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Metal to Metal Adehisive
Hi All,
I need some suggestions for sticking sticking aluminum to aluminum.
I am making some pieces to cover gaps in my skins that are a little
larger than I like. I would like to glue them on. They don't need to be
removable.
Thanks,
Dave in Salem.
It's nice to have a heated shop.
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List">http://www.matron
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive |
Hi Craig,
Don't pay any attention to what Bill said. You have to get to know me,
although there is an underlaying tone about your response too.
First of all, it's not like I'm going to glue my plane together. I can
figure out how to get the engine to stick to the mount.
I was thinking about putting some thin .016 aluminum washers I made
around the tank drains in the bottom of the wing. I located the holes
really good on the first 2 tanks, but one of the other ones has the hole
through the bottom of the wing quite a ways off. I just want to trim it
in so it looks better.
I now return control of your TV set back to you.
----- Original Message -----
From: Craig Payne
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 4:27 PM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Metal to Metal Adehisive
If you search the archives for the word "glue" you should find a
thread entitled "New thread, sticky subject" starting on Nov 16th, 2006.
It was about bonding metal planes together. But I agree that this is a
place to proceed very cautiously. Even if you convince yourself you will
also have to convince whoever inspects your plane. And those pieces
could be very hard to remove if he objects.
-- Craig
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive |
I suppose I'll have to do it the right way after all. I have heard about
riveting metal to metal. I'll have to look into that. I'd be really
embarrassed if I was found dead in the wreckage of my plane that crashed
because a 2" circle of aluminum came off the wing and cut the tail off
the plane causing me to go into an uncontrolled death spiral and make a
smoking hole in the ground. But, it is possible that the metal circle
would have melted in the post crash fire.
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Mulwitz
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 5:28 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Metal to Metal Adehisive
Hi Dave,
I'm afraid glue doesn't work so well on aluminum. The standard way to
attach pieces of aluminum together is (would you believe it . . . )
rivets. Perhaps you should consider riveting some patches on your gaps.
Best regards,
Paul
do not archive
At 03:40 PM 1/13/2007, you wrote:
Hi All,
I need some suggestions for sticking sticking aluminum to aluminum.
I am making some pieces to cover gaps in my skins that are a little
larger than I like. I would like to glue them on. They don't need to be
removable.
Thanks,
Dave in Salem.
It's nice to have a heated shop.
---------------------------------------------
Paul Mulwitz
32013 NE Dial Road
Camas, WA 98607
---------------------------------------------
Message 26
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| Subject: | Painfully learned polishing tips |
All-
1. Polishing skins before assembly is no faster than after assembly
and has a new set of pitfalls.
A. CLAMP THE PIECE ON BOTH SIDES EVERY 3' OR SO. As in just about
every building activity, movement is death.
B. AFTER CATCHING AN EDGE AND KINKING YOUR SKIN, REFER TO "A" ABOVE.
C. When you kink your skin, you can do a respectable job of turning
an accordion back into a relatively flat piece with a body dolly and
plastic hammer. Don't laugh- it works. Desperation is the mother of
innovation.
2.Related to (1)- you're probably better off avoiding the edges
until after assembly. If you want everything to shine, you're going to
have to polish the rivets later anyway.
3. The compound actually cuts better if you hold some pressure off
the buffer. Down pressure is counterproductive.
4. Ron Black never said anything after I e-mailed him saying I was
going to wet sand the rough spots. He knew better. Six of one, half
dozen of another. It takes you at least as long to compound out the
sanding scratches as it would to compound the rough spot out in the
first place.
5. PREPARE TO MAKE A MESS OUT OF YOUR SHOP!! I have to vacuum after
every 3' section, and have a 30 gallon garbage can nearly full of
"Hairballs" already. Black crud is everywhere! If you're polishing,
quick, run down to HF. They have 100 packs of Nitrile gloves on sale for
$5.99. At least you won't have to sandblast your hands.
6. Refer to my 12/31/06 post where I naively said I'd have the right
and left fuse skins polished by 1/2/07. I'll just finish the right skin
tonight, and any of you guys know right where to go to see where I
f---ed up.
Good building!
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive |
Dave-
I just figured you might have a little trouble finding a wingman to
fly formation with you, with the pieces glued on that didn't necessarily
HAVE to be removable!
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Ruddiman
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 8:36 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Metal to Metal Adehisive
I DON'T NEED PROFESSIONAL HELP. I'M PERFECTLY FINE. WHEN I ASKED THE
VOICES IN MY HEAD IF I'M OK THEY SAY THERE IS ABSOLUTELY NOTHING WRONG
WITH ME, AND I AGREE.
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Naumuk
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 3:59 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Metal to Metal Adehisive
Dave-
Don't take this the wrong way- seek professional help before you
hurt someone.
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Ruddiman
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 6:40 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Metal to Metal Adehisive
Hi All,
I need some suggestions for sticking sticking aluminum to
aluminum. I am making some pieces to cover gaps in my skins that are a
little larger than I like. I would like to glue them on. They don't need
to be removable.
Thanks,
Dave in Salem.
It's nice to have a heated shop.
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List">http://www.matron
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List">http://www.matron
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
Message 28
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| Subject: | Metal to Metal Adehisive |
I'm certain that you can determine what is safe for you plane. And note that
(so far) I am the only one who has pointed towards any real information. But
flying is encumbered but a certain amount of bureaucracy, inertia and
officialdom. And it is true that many inspectors won't notice a missing
wing. All I am saying is:
Question authority (but be prepared when it answers).
-- Craig
do not archive
Message 29
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| Subject: | Indexing a row of holes |
Listers,
I am in the process of making a sub-panel for my circuit breakers. The circuit
breakers need to be located 20mm on center. Therefore, I need to drill holes
in the sub-panel at 20mm O.C.; and I also need to drill holes in a .032 x 1/2"
copper bus bar (fastened to the back side of the circuit breakers)at 20mm O.C.
I will have two rows of circuit breakers, eight in each row. I don't feel
that I can just mark them with a sharpie and get the accuracy I want. Does anyone
have any method for accurately indexing holes like this?
Jay in Dallas
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive |
Bill,
Just remember those rubber gloves you referred to for polishing go on
your hands, not your head. I've heard it's really hard to breath with
them on, but can kind of see through them.
Your welcome,
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Naumuk
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 6:05 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Metal to Metal Adehisive
Dave-
I just figured you might have a little trouble finding a wingman
to fly formation with you, with the pieces glued on that didn't
necessarily HAVE to be removable!
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Ruddiman
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 8:36 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Metal to Metal Adehisive
I DON'T NEED PROFESSIONAL HELP. I'M PERFECTLY FINE. WHEN I ASKED THE
VOICES IN MY HEAD IF I'M OK THEY SAY THERE IS ABSOLUTELY NOTHING WRONG
WITH ME, AND I AGREE.
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Naumuk
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 3:59 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Metal to Metal Adehisive
Dave-
Don't take this the wrong way- seek professional help before
you hurt someone.
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Ruddiman
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 6:40 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Metal to Metal Adehisive
Hi All,
I need some suggestions for sticking sticking aluminum to
aluminum. I am making some pieces to cover gaps in my skins that are a
little larger than I like. I would like to glue them on. They don't need
to be removable.
Thanks,
Dave in Salem.
It's nice to have a heated shop.
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List">http://www.matron
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List">http://www.matron
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List">http://www.matron
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive |
Thank you very much. Once again I can say that this list is so full
of..............? Really good advice.
I suppose that someone will say something about taking responsibility
for a person own actions. I just hate that.
----- Original Message -----
From: Craig Payne
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 6:06 PM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Metal to Metal Adehisive
I'm certain that you can determine what is safe for you plane. And
note that (so far) I am the only one who has pointed towards any real
information. But flying is encumbered but a certain amount of
bureaucracy, inertia and officialdom. And it is true that many
inspectors won't notice a missing wing. All I am saying is:
Question authority (but be prepared when it answers).
-- Craig
do not archive
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive |
Dave,
Heh don't be sarcastic, look what happened to the Space Shuttle from a piece
of foam insulation. All kidding aside, the RV crowd uses Proseal to bond
aluminum together, you can buy it from Vans Aircraft.
Bob Spudis
do not archive
In a message dated 1/13/2007 8:51:52 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
pacificpainting@comcast.net writes:
I suppose I'll have to do it the right way after all. I have heard about
riveting metal to metal. I'll have to look into that. I'd be really embarrassed
if I was found dead in the wreckage of my plane that crashed because a 2"
circle of aluminum came off the wing and cut the tail off the plane causing me
to go into an uncontrolled death spiral and make a smoking hole in the ground.
But, it is possible that the metal circle would have melted in the post
crash fire.
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive |
Dave,
I am glad you have a sense of humor. I would
have gotten pissed off. Why don't we find out why and
where he wants to glue before casting remarks. I
think glue is a very good idea for this situation.
VR/
Brandon
601 HDS / TD / Corvair
53 hours
Need a quick answer? Get one in minutes from people who know.
Ask your question on www.Answers.yahoo.com
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive |
Dave, just another thought would be to make domed shaped covers with the
hole for the tank sump and then it will look like you put fairings on your tank
sumps to reduce the drag and make your plane faster.
Bob Spudis
In a message dated 1/13/2007 9:27:13 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
NYTerminat@aol.com writes:
I suppose I'll have to do it the right way after all. I have heard about
riveting metal to metal. I'll have to look into that. I'd be really embarrassed
if I was found dead in the wreckage of my plane that crashed because a 2"
circle of aluminum came off the wing and cut the tail off the plane causing me
to go into an uncontrolled death spiral and make a smoking hole in the ground.
But, it is possible that the metal circle would have melted in the post
crash fire.
Message 35
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|
| Subject: | Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive |
I forgot about the RV stuff. I built the empennage, wings and the tanks
for an RV9A, so I'm familiar with ProSeal. I got some a couple of months
ago. I'm not sure if it's still ProSeal or not, but it looks and works
the same.
----- Original Message -----
From: NYTerminat@aol.com
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 6:25 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Metal to Metal Adehisive
Dave,
Heh don't be sarcastic, look what happened to the Space Shuttle from a
piece of foam insulation. All kidding aside, the RV crowd uses Proseal
to bond aluminum together, you can buy it from Vans Aircraft.
Bob Spudis
do not archive
In a message dated 1/13/2007 8:51:52 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
pacificpainting@comcast.net writes:
I suppose I'll have to do it the right way after all. I have heard
about riveting metal to metal. I'll have to look into that. I'd be
really embarrassed if I was found dead in the wreckage of my plane that
crashed because a 2" circle of aluminum came off the wing and cut the
tail off the plane causing me to go into an uncontrolled death spiral
and make a smoking hole in the ground. But, it is possible that the
metal circle would have melted in the post crash fire.
Message 36
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|
| Subject: | Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive |
Proseal will reliably stick snot to a polished brass doorknob, repaired
some RV3 tanks I built 30 yrs ago and the alum would tear before it
would peel even with all the rivets drilled out. Just don't get it on
you (right!) as you'll wear it for a couple weeks. LOW&SLOW John
Bolding
Dave,
Heh don't be sarcastic, look what happened to the Space Shuttle from a
piece of foam insulation. All kidding aside, the RV crowd uses Proseal
to bond aluminum together, you can buy it from Vans Aircraft.
Bob Spudis
do not archive
Message 37
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| Subject: | Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive |
Speaking of domed covers. I do have to make some for the access holes
for the fuel senders. They aren't flush with the top of the wing and
there is a small piece of nylon that you are supposed to attach to the
bottom of the cover so it doesn't contact the sender and blow you up. I
made a pretend one out of resin and a paint strainer bag,but I'm not
sure what I'm going to do yet. I may just ad that to the last 90% left
to finish when I'm about done. I think there was talk of domed covers a
while back. Has anyone done this successfully? I am open to suggestions.
We'll, some of them anyway.
I have streamline strut fairings. With more aerodynamics on the sump
valves I may exceed the Vne of the plane.
----- Original Message -----
From: NYTerminat@aol.com
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 6:33 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Metal to Metal Adehisive
Dave, just another thought would be to make domed shaped covers with
the hole for the tank sump and then it will look like you put fairings
on your tank sumps to reduce the drag and make your plane faster.
Bob Spudis
In a message dated 1/13/2007 9:27:13 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
NYTerminat@aol.com writes:
I suppose I'll have to do it the right way after all. I have heard
about riveting metal to metal. I'll have to look into that. I'd be
really embarrassed if I was found dead in the wreckage of my plane that
crashed because a 2" circle of aluminum came off the wing and cut the
tail off the plane causing me to go into an uncontrolled death spiral
and make a smoking hole in the ground. But, it is possible that the
metal circle would have melted in the post crash fire.
Message 38
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|
| Subject: | Rear wing spar measurement |
I'm about 1/2 way through bulding my right wing. I made the ribs per the plans
measurments (9 seperate center ribs) so I know my ribs are the right size. I see
on the plans that it calls for a rear span with a width of 106mm across the
web. The rear of the back end of the center ribs is only 104mm. I decided to
make my rear spar at 103.5mm. There's still a small gap top and bottom when the
rib is lined up with the rear spar, and will be a tad more with the flaps and
aileron hinges. Has anyone else run into this problem? The main spar is 212mm
and the front of the center rib is around 218 or a little more, so that measurement
in the plans seems to be correct. Does anyone see any problem in making
the rear spar at 103.5 or there abouts to fit the rear of the center spar, the
rer spar is still about 2 mm over even at 103.5mm. I highly doubt I made a
mistake making my center spars because I had to cut 9 different forms per the
plans, all 9 them coming out the same dimensions on the rear end, and all 9 of
the the front of the center spars seems to be spot on with the dimensions to
meet up with the center spar.
Thanks.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=87462#87462
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| Subject: | Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive |
Dave, What does Zenith use for strut fairings? Is it aluminum and did you
have to fabricate them, I am interested in putting them on my 701. Or by
Steamline do you mean Streamline's PVC fairings? Don't worry about exceeding VNE
;)
Bob Spudis
In a message dated 1/13/2007 9:55:51 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
pacificpainting@comcast.net writes:
I have streamline strut fairings. With more aerodynamics on the sump valves
I may exceed the Vne of the plane.
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive |
I take what I want and leave the rest. I could be smiling while I am giving
everyone the "salute". Besides I do have a button that says delete. Life's
to short to get all worked up about stuff that doesn't really matter.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brandon Tucker" <btucke73@yahoo.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 6:25 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive
>
> Dave,
>
> I am glad you have a sense of humor. I would
> have gotten pissed off. Why don't we find out why and
> where he wants to glue before casting remarks. I
> think glue is a very good idea for this situation.
>
> VR/
>
> Brandon
> 601 HDS / TD / Corvair
> 53 hours
>
>
> Need a quick answer? Get one in minutes from people who know.
> Ask your question on www.Answers.yahoo.com
>
>
>
Message 41
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| Subject: | Indexing a row of holes |
Lay out a 1-to-1 pattern in a CAD program, print it at 100% and stick it to
the metal with 3M spray adhesive. Use the weakest adhesive, not the
permanent stuff.
Or: stack the buss bars and panel and drill pilot holes in all three at the
same time. Just make sure to mark the pieces so you can put them together in
the same orientation.
BTW: if you haven't already, read Bob Nuckolls stuff on the AeroElectric
list and his book.
-- Craig
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| Subject: | Re: Rear wing spar measurement |
Not sure what you are building but this link will show how I held the dimensions
of the rear channel of my XL.
I made sure the spars were right and fit the ribs to them.
--------
Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
Corvair Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=87469#87469
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| Subject: | Re: Rear wing spar measurement |
Ron Lendon wrote:
> Not sure what you are building but this link will show how I held the dimensions
of the rear channel of my XL.
>
>
>
> I made sure the spars were right and fit the ribs to them.
Thanks. I have the angle correct. It's the fact the if I made a 106mm web it would
be over sized by about 3mm, leaving a gap instead of a nice flush joint for
the skin to over lap. I'm thinking my ribs may be ever so slightly under sized.
I looked my router and where the ballbearing touches the rib former, it's
about 5mm from where the router actually does it's deal on the piece I'm routing.
considering the 10 degree spring back angle in the form, where the router
bearing actually touches the side of the form means that it's cutting off close
to an extra 1mm all around (tangeant 10 degrees times, 5mm = .88mm), meaning
the form is essentially almost 2mm undersized width and length. Not a major problem
in length, but definitely a problem at the small rear end of the final
rib.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=87473#87473
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| Subject: | Re: Rear wing spar measurement |
Ron Lendon wrote:
> Not sure what you are building but this link will show how I held the dimensions
of the rear channel of my XL.
>
>
>
> I made sure the spars were right and fit the ribs to them.
Oh, I'm building a CH601XL with a Corvair engine. Just updated my signature.
--------
CH601XL - Corvair
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=87474#87474
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| Subject: | Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive |
the very best "adhesive" available is ProSeal 870 or 890. period. Just make sure
that you don't leave any exposed because paint will eventually flake off it.
Thsi product is designed for fay and fillet sealing fuel tanks and weather sealing
of cabins.
Dave Ruddiman <pacificpainting@comcast.net> wrote: Hi All,
I need some suggestions for sticking sticking aluminum to aluminum. I am making
some pieces to cover gaps in my skins that are a little larger than I like.
I would like to glue them on. They don't need to be removable.
Thanks,
Dave in Salem.
It's nice to have a heated shop.
Dave Downey
Harleysville (SE) PA
---------------------------------
Message 46
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| Subject: | Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive |
Bob,
I haven't made the strut fairings yet. Waiting until the plane is
assembled. They are made of aluminum. They are more or less pre-bent.
They still have to be pulled around and riveted. This is for an 801. I
don't know if 701's have them. I don't see why they couldn't be
fabricated. There should be a picture of them in the 801 part of the
Zenith website. I just got them so I wouldn't have round tubes showing.
Mainly just for looks and so I could spend some more money. They are an
option. Not included in the kit.
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: NYTerminat@aol.com
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 7:00 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Metal to Metal Adehisive
Dave, What does Zenith use for strut fairings? Is it aluminum and did
you have to fabricate them, I am interested in putting them on my 701.
Or by Steamline do you mean Streamline's PVC fairings? Don't worry about
exceeding VNE ;)
Bob Spudis
In a message dated 1/13/2007 9:55:51 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
pacificpainting@comcast.net writes:
I have streamline strut fairings. With more aerodynamics on the sump
valves I may exceed the Vne of the plane.
Message 47
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| Subject: | Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive |
I knew if I waited long enough someone would give me an answer I wanted.
Thank You Sir
----- Original Message -----
From: David Downey
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 8:26 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Metal to Metal Adehisive
the very best "adhesive" available is ProSeal 870 or 890. period. Just
make sure that you don't leave any exposed because paint will eventually
flake off it. Thsi product is designed for fay and fillet sealing fuel
tanks and weather sealing of cabins.
Dave Ruddiman <pacificpainting@comcast.net> wrote:
Hi All,
I need some suggestions for sticking sticking aluminum to aluminum.
I am making some pieces to cover gaps in my skins that are a little
larger than I like. I would like to glue them on. They don't need to be
removable.
Thanks,
--> http://forums.matronics.com
===========
Message 48
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| Subject: | Re: Indexing a row of holes |
Jay-
Ideally, use a Bridgeport vertical mill. Other than that, use an
ultra-fine point Sharpie and a "Clicker" center punch.
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: <Jaybannist@cs.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 9:09 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Indexing a row of holes
>
> Listers,
>
> I am in the process of making a sub-panel for my circuit breakers. The
> circuit breakers need to be located 20mm on center. Therefore, I need to
> drill holes in the sub-panel at 20mm O.C.; and I also need to drill holes
> in a .032 x 1/2" copper bus bar (fastened to the back side of the circuit
> breakers)at 20mm O.C. I will have two rows of circuit breakers, eight in
> each row. I don't feel that I can just mark them with a sharpie and get
> the accuracy I want. Does anyone have any method for accurately indexing
> holes like this?
>
> Jay in Dallas
>
>
>
Message 49
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| Subject: | Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive |
Dave-
Cripes, read your original post. How would you respond to it?
Whatever. Nothing surprises me anymore.
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Ruddiman
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 9:20 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Metal to Metal Adehisive
Bill,
Just remember those rubber gloves you referred to for polishing go on
your hands, not your head. I've heard it's really hard to breath with
them on, but can kind of see through them.
Your welcome,
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Naumuk
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 6:05 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Metal to Metal Adehisive
Dave-
I just figured you might have a little trouble finding a wingman
to fly formation with you, with the pieces glued on that didn't
necessarily HAVE to be removable!
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Ruddiman
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 8:36 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Metal to Metal Adehisive
I DON'T NEED PROFESSIONAL HELP. I'M PERFECTLY FINE. WHEN I ASKED
THE VOICES IN MY HEAD IF I'M OK THEY SAY THERE IS ABSOLUTELY NOTHING
WRONG WITH ME, AND I AGREE.
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Naumuk
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 3:59 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Metal to Metal Adehisive
Dave-
Don't take this the wrong way- seek professional help before
you hurt someone.
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Ruddiman
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 6:40 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Metal to Metal Adehisive
Hi All,
I need some suggestions for sticking sticking aluminum to
aluminum. I am making some pieces to cover gaps in my skins that are a
little larger than I like. I would like to glue them on. They don't need
to be removable.
Thanks,
Dave in Salem.
It's nice to have a heated shop.
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List">http://www.matron
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| Subject: | Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive |
Hi Bill,
I see what you mean. I think a lot of the squabbles that get started on
this list are due to misunderstandings. When you have to try to
interpret what another person or persons mean by only being able to read
it, it is difficult. Speaking on my own behalf I am here because I can
use the help from others that have gone before me, maybe try to help
some with what I know, and most of all, just for the fun of it. I try
not to get caught up in the moment during some of the discussions.
Sometimes I just need a break from it all. It's been fun getting to know
others on this list and I do learn a lot. I don't know where I'm going
with this, but I will say, anyone can say what they want to me on this
list. We all have that right. (This is the part where the fireworks
start and someone starts sing the national anthem). All the time I've
spent messing around on the computer tonight I could have made and
remade at least a couple of parts.
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Naumuk
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 9:03 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Metal to Metal Adehisive
Dave-
Cripes, read your original post. How would you respond to it?
Whatever. Nothing surprises me anymore.
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Ruddiman
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 9:20 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Metal to Metal Adehisive
Bill,
Just remember those rubber gloves you referred to for polishing go
on your hands, not your head. I've heard it's really hard to breath with
them on, but can kind of see through them.
Your welcome,
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Naumuk
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 6:05 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Metal to Metal Adehisive
Dave-
I just figured you might have a little trouble finding a
wingman to fly formation with you, with the pieces glued on that didn't
necessarily HAVE to be removable!
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Ruddiman
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 8:36 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Metal to Metal Adehisive
I DON'T NEED PROFESSIONAL HELP. I'M PERFECTLY FINE. WHEN I ASKED
THE VOICES IN MY HEAD IF I'M OK THEY SAY THERE IS ABSOLUTELY NOTHING
WRONG WITH ME, AND I AGREE.
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Naumuk
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 3:59 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Metal to Metal Adehisive
Dave-
Don't take this the wrong way- seek professional help
before you hurt someone.
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Ruddiman
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 6:40 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Metal to Metal Adehisive
Hi All,
I need some suggestions for sticking sticking aluminum to
aluminum. I am making some pieces to cover gaps in my skins that are a
little larger than I like. I would like to glue them on. They don't need
to be removable.
Thanks,
Dave in Salem.
It's nice to have a heated shop.
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List">http://www.matron
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List">http://www.matron
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List">http://www.matron
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List">http://www.matron
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List">http://www.matron
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
Message 51
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| Subject: | Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive |
there are actually several good aluminum to aluminum adheasives. it is
not cheap though. I have several different kinds depending on
flexibility after setting, and yes they are used on certified airplanes.
The Traveler and Tiger by Gruman use bonded wings, no rivets.
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Ruddiman
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 6:40 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Metal to Metal Adehisive
Hi All,
I need some suggestions for sticking sticking aluminum to
aluminum. I am making some pieces to cover gaps in my skins that are a
little larger than I like. I would like to glue them on. They don't need
to be removable.
Thanks,
Dave in Salem.
It's nice to have a heated shop.
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List">http://www.matron
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List">http://www.matron
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List">http://www.matron
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
Message 52
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| Subject: | Re: Cutting control cables? |
Andy,
I thought that I commented before on this topic but looked in the archives
and don't see anything. I have a comment about measuring.
I rigged up my plane using that plastic clothesline with the wire in the
center. That way I could determine how long the cables would be. I then
replaced each clothesline with a cable.
And, the Aircraft Spruce (12-12000) swager worked well - yes, it's a bit
awkward. Other builders in my EAA chapter used one.
Joe E
N633Z @ BFI
CH601XL, 417 hours
Jabiru 3300, Sensenich 64x49 wood prop
On Sat, 13 Jan 2007, Dr. Andrew Elliott wrote:
> Gang:
> Looking for good advise for cutting the control cables to length.
> Interested in both measuring and cutting advise?
> ........snip
> Finally, I was planning on buying the $16.50 #2 screw-type swager from
> Aircraft Spruce. (12-12000) Anyone have comments on usability. Anyone
> have one they want to part with?
> Thanks, Andy Elliott, Mesa, AZ
> .....snip do not archive
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