Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:14 AM - Re: Cutting control cables? (ronlee)
2. 05:36 AM - Re: Re: Cutting control cables? (Crvsecretary@aol.com)
3. 06:29 AM - Re: Re: Cutting control cables? (CH701)
4. 07:04 AM - Re: Re: Cutting control cables? (David Downey)
5. 07:30 AM - Bonding metal (Bob)
6. 07:31 AM - Re: Rear wing spar measurement (ashontz)
7. 08:46 AM - 601Xl Quick Build Kit ()
8. 08:57 AM - Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive (BadBob)
9. 09:08 AM - Re: Re: Cutting control cables? (Monty Graves)
10. 09:12 AM - Re: Indexing a row of holes (Bill Naumuk)
11. 09:28 AM - Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive (Bill Naumuk)
12. 09:39 AM - Re: Rotax water temp probe holder (N601RT)
13. 09:50 AM - Re: Indexing a row of holes (Tim Juhl)
14. 11:13 AM - Re: Indexing a row of holes (Jaybannist@cs.com)
15. 11:22 AM - Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive (Dave Ruddiman)
16. 11:27 AM - Re: Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive (Dave Ruddiman)
17. 12:11 PM - Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive (George Race)
18. 01:10 PM - Re: Bonding metal (JG)
19. 01:17 PM - Fw: Slats myth busted! (Carl Bertrand)
20. 02:59 PM - Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive (ihab.awad@gmail.com)
21. 03:40 PM - Re: Slats myth busted! (JG)
22. 03:41 PM - Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive (Dave Ruddiman)
23. 04:32 PM - Re: Rear wing spar measurement (Ron Lendon)
24. 05:14 PM - propeller (Jim & MaryAnne Rutoski)
25. 05:58 PM - Re: propeller (Steve Hulland)
26. 06:23 PM - Re: position lights and strobes - tx! (Carlos Sa)
27. 09:12 PM - Domed covers (Dave and Pam Fisher)
28. 09:23 PM - Rear wing channel jigs? (John Marzulli)
29. 09:50 PM - Two questions (JohnDRead@aol.com)
30. 10:06 PM - Re: Rear wing channel jigs? (JohnDRead@aol.com)
31. 10:17 PM - Re: Two questions (Dave Ruddiman)
32. 10:54 PM - Re: Rear wing channel jigs? (Richard Cottingham)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Cutting control cables? |
I've used the following method for setting up proper length cables on three airplanes
and it works well.
Get a roll of tie wire from a place like Home Depot. String the wire where the
cables are to go and set then up to the proper length. Test the system with the
tie wire in place. When you get the proper length remove the tie wire to your
bench and make the cables up the same length.
You will be surprised how many places one will use the remaining tie wire. It
works great for hanging parts for painting
--------
Ron Lee
Tucson, Arizona
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=87505#87505
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Cutting control cables? |
Good Morning Ron:
"Tie wire" ??? Where does Home Despot keep this? Looks like I could use a
roll !! I want to run this to the aileron bell crank before I button up my
wings but before I get the controls kit.
Thanks for the tip.
Regards,
Tracy Smith
Naugatuck, CT
601xl N458XL (reserved)
do not archive
In a message dated 1/14/2007 7:16:09 AM Eastern Standard Time,
rlee468@comcast.net writes:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "ronlee" <rlee468@comcast.net>
I've used the following method for setting up proper length cables on three
airplanes and it works well.
Get a roll of tie wire from a place like Home Depot. String the wire where
the cables are to go and set then up to the proper length. Test the system
with the tie wire in place. When you get the proper length remove the tie wire
to your bench and make the cables up the same length.
You will be surprised how many places one will use the remaining tie wire.
It works great for hanging parts for painting
--------
Ron Lee
Tucson, Arizona
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Cutting control cables? |
I believe Ron (correct me if I'm wrong) was referring to the steel wire sold
for the purpose of supporting (tieing up) suspended ceiling framework...
Todd Henning
West Bend, WI
701 Scratch build
_____
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Crvsecretary@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, January 14, 2007 7:35 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Re: Cutting control cables?
Good Morning Ron:
"Tie wire" ??? Where does Home Despot keep this? Looks like I could use a
roll !! I want to run this to the aileron bell crank before I button up my
wings but before I get the controls kit.
Thanks for the tip.
Regards,
Tracy Smith
Naugatuck, CT
601xl N458XL (reserved)
do not archive
In a message dated 1/14/2007 7:16:09 AM Eastern Standard Time,
rlee468@comcast.net writes:
I've used the following method for setting up proper length cables on three
airplanes and it works well.
Get a roll of tie wire from a place like Home Depot. String the wire where
the cables are to go and set then up to the proper length. Test the system
with the tie wire in place. When you get the proper length remove the tie
wire to your bench and make the cables up the same length.
You will be surprised how many places one will use the remaining tie wire.
It works great for hanging parts for painting
--------
Ron Lee
Tucson, Arizona
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Cutting control cables? |
Seems like the poly coated clothesline cable or picture hanging wire might also
be useful for this?
CH701 <701stol@gmail.com> wrote: I believe Ron (correct me if I'm wrong) was
referring to the steel wire sold for the purpose of supporting (tieing up)
suspended ceiling framework...
Todd Henning
West Bend, WI
701 Scratch build
---------------------------------
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Crvsecretary@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, January 14, 2007 7:35 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Re: Cutting control cables?
Good Morning Ron:
"Tie wire" ??? Where does Home Despot keep this? Looks like I could use a
roll !! I want to run this to the aileron bell crank before I button up my wings
but before I get the controls kit.
Thanks for the tip.
Regards,
Tracy Smith
Naugatuck, CT
601xl N458XL (reserved)
do not archive
In a message dated 1/14/2007 7:16:09 AM Eastern Standard Time, rlee468@comcast.net
writes:
I've used the following method for setting up proper length cables on three airplanes
and it works well.
Get a roll of tie wire from a place like Home Depot. String the wire where the
cables are to go and set then up to the proper length. Test the system with the
tie wire in place. When you get the proper length remove the tie wire to your
bench and make the cables up the same length.
You will be surprised how many places one will use the remaining tie wire. It works
great for hanging parts for painting
--------
Ron Lee
Tucson, Arizona
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List">http://www.matronhref="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
Dave Downey
Harleysville (SE) PA
---------------------------------
Don't be flakey. Get Yahoo! Mail for Mobile and
always stay connected to friends.
Message 5
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Two good choices for gluing metal are the epoxy adhesive T88 or JB Weld.
T88 is available from Wicks or Aircraft Spruce and JB Weld for any WalMar
t
store. Both work equally well and JB Weld now comes in a quick setting
formula.
Lots of commercial aircraft parts are glued or bonded together. Best to
scratch up the surfaces to be glue first for a better bond.
Bob, Wichita
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Rear wing spar measurement |
I took a closer look at this ths morning. The spar that I made acutually measures
about 104m-105mm (measured in several spots along the 12' foot length). I test
clamped the rib to the spar with the rib upside down on the table and clamped
a 3 foot by 6in piece of .025 along the top edge. It actually looks pretty
good. The clamps (small finger spring clamps from Home Depot) pulled everything
together nicely and no warping on the top of the skin was noticed. I think
I'm actually good here. I'll post some pix though.
--------
CH601XL - Corvair
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=87526#87526
Message 7
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| Subject: | 601Xl Quick Build Kit |
List Members:
I have some specific questions regarding the Zenith 601XL Quick-Build Kit and I
don't want to take space on this list if the questions could be answered by direct
email. If any list member is building this type of kit and has the time
to answer a few questions, please contact me at djdormer@cox.net
D.J. Dormer
Hampton Virginia 23604
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive |
Hi guys, I am a new subscriber. My intent is to build a 601XL either
corvair or 0-200 powered. For Dave: I used to own a Thorp T-18 and had
two 2" covers on the bottom of the aircraft "glued" on with silicon. I
have had the aircraft up to 210MPH and they stayed on!
Bob in Oregon
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Cutting control cables? |
Tie wire is found in the cement dept. where they sell lengths of
rbar. (reinforcing steel bars that go in concrete). Tie wire is used to
tie these steel bars together in concrete construction. It comes in
plastic coated, or bare wire..... get the plastic coated, it doesn't
rust. comes in a coil of a couple of pounds i.e. several hundred
feet. 4-5 bucks....... Looks like and about the diameter of the once
common baling wire, for those not familiar with tie wire.
handy stuff to have around......
almost as handy duck tape..... in fact if it can't be fixed with duck tape
or baling wire.... throw the sum b*tch away and get a new one :-)
M.
At 08:35 AM 1/14/2007 -0500, you wrote:
>Good Morning Ron:
>
>"Tie wire" ??? Where does Home Despot keep this? Looks like I could use
>a roll !! I want to run this to the aileron bell crank before I button up
>my wings but before I get the controls kit.
>
>Thanks for the tip.
>
>Regards,
>
>Tracy Smith
>Naugatuck, CT
>601xl N458XL (reserved)
>do not archive
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Indexing a row of holes |
Jay-
I forgot about an old layout trick.
Draw a line with a fine Sharpie from one end hole to another. Center
punch one end hole. Then set a draftsman's compass with two points (No lead)
to 20mm, stick one point in the first punch hole and swing an arc across the
Sharpie line. You can then leapfrog your way to the second end hole. If you
wind up with the last arc right on the second end hole, go back and center
punch the scribed intersections. You won't be off more than a couple thou
total, and everything will be evenly spaced.
do not archive
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk@alltel.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 11:56 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Indexing a row of holes
>
> Jay-
> Ideally, use a Bridgeport vertical mill. Other than that, use an
> ultra-fine point Sharpie and a "Clicker" center punch.
> Bill Naumuk
> HDS Fuselage
> Townville, Pa
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Jaybannist@cs.com>
> To: <zenith-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 9:09 PM
> Subject: Zenith-List: Indexing a row of holes
>
>
>>
>> Listers,
>>
>> I am in the process of making a sub-panel for my circuit breakers. The
>> circuit breakers need to be located 20mm on center. Therefore, I need to
>> drill holes in the sub-panel at 20mm O.C.; and I also need to drill holes
>> in a .032 x 1/2" copper bus bar (fastened to the back side of the circuit
>> breakers)at 20mm O.C. I will have two rows of circuit breakers, eight in
>> each row. I don't feel that I can just mark them with a sharpie and get
>> the accuracy I want. Does anyone have any method for accurately indexing
>> holes like this?
>>
>> Jay in Dallas
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive |
Dave-
The problem is, you can never tell when someone's serious and when
they're adding a tongue in cheek comment. I'm as guilty as any in this
respect.
A couple of years ago there was a string re: fitting fiberglass end
ribs. You know, the ones that you mount position lights to. One lister
was worried about what to do about a 1/4" gap between the wing skin and
the fiberglass. Another lister said "1/4" isn't bad, I had 3/4" and just
filled it in with bondo."
I 'm sure you get my point. I also agree, you can't live without a
heated workshop. It's hard enough getting myself out to polish without
having to microwave the Nuvite first!
do not archive
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Ruddiman
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, January 14, 2007 12:45 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Metal to Metal Adehisive
Hi Bill,
I see what you mean. I think a lot of the squabbles that get started
on this list are due to misunderstandings.
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax water temp probe holder |
George,
I ordered a temperature sender fitting from Grand Rapids Technology. I could not
find the coupler on their web site, so I ordered by emailing a request for a
single port fitting with metric threads (to fit the standard Rotax probe). There
were multiple configurations of the temperature sender fitting. I also referred
to an article in May 2006 Kit planes which said GRT would be distributing
the fittings.
Regards,
Roy
N601RT: CH601HDS, nose gear, Rotax 912ULS, All electric, IFR equipped, 658hrs,
768 landings
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=87551#87551
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Indexing a row of holes |
What about using a rivet fan? Set it up and drill all the items one after another
to insure the fan doesn't shift. You might drill the pilot holes in the bus
first and use it as a drilling template for the panel.
Tim
--------
DO NOT ARCHIVE
______________
CFII
Champ L16A flying
Zodiac XL - Working on wings
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=87556#87556
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Indexing a row of holes |
Bill,
It seems that I was overly concerned about accuracy. I simply used a scale and
marked off 20mm increments, centerpunched and drilled pilot holes. I drilled
three stacked bus bars at the same time and use one of the bus bars as a template
to drill pilot holes in the sub panel. I test fitted several circuit breakers
and it works out just fine.
Thanks - Jay in Dallas
Do not archive
"Bill Naumuk" <naumuk@alltel.net> wrote:
>
>Jay-
> I forgot about an old layout trick.
> Draw a line with a fine Sharpie from one end hole to another. Center
>punch one end hole. Then set a draftsman's compass with two points (No lead)
>to 20mm, stick one point in the first punch hole and swing an arc across the
>Sharpie line. You can then leapfrog your way to the second end hole. If you
>wind up with the last arc right on the second end hole, go back and center
>punch the scribed intersections. You won't be off more than a couple thou
>total, and everything will be evenly spaced.
> do not archive
>Bill Naumuk
>HDS Fuselage
>Townville, Pa
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk@alltel.net>
>To: <zenith-list@matronics.com>
>Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 11:56 PM
>Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Indexing a row of holes
>
>
>>
>> Jay-
>> Ideally, use a Bridgeport vertical mill. Other than that, use an
>> ultra-fine point Sharpie and a "Clicker" center punch.
>> Bill Naumuk
>> HDS Fuselage
>> Townville, Pa
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: <Jaybannist@cs.com>
>> To: <zenith-list@matronics.com>
>> Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 9:09 PM
>> Subject: Zenith-List: Indexing a row of holes
>>
>>
>>>
>>> Listers,
>>>
>>> I am in the process of making a sub-panel for my circuit breakers. The
>>> circuit breakers need to be located 20mm on center. Therefore, I need to
>>> drill holes in the sub-panel at 20mm O.C.; and I also need to drill holes
>>> in a .032 x 1/2" copper bus bar (fastened to the back side of the circuit
>>> breakers)at 20mm O.C. I will have two rows of circuit breakers, eight in
>>> each row. I don't feel that I can just mark them with a sharpie and get
>>> the accuracy I want. Does anyone have any method for accurately indexing
>>> holes like this?
>>>
>>> Jay in Dallas
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive |
Hi Bill,
I agree with D. all of the above.
I've been watching the polishing episode to see what really works. I
have thought about polishing just the slats on the 801, but I have
plenty of time to decide that. I had a polished Ercoupe a few years ago.
It came that way. It seemed to stay looking good for quite a while. I
sold it to a couple of guys that were going to learn to fly in it. Last
I heard about all they did was polish it. It did look good. On a hot
sunny day I think you cold get a sunburn by just standing next to it.
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Naumuk
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, January 14, 2007 9:28 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Metal to Metal Adehisive
Dave-
The problem is, you can never tell when someone's serious and when
they're adding a tongue in cheek comment. I'm as guilty as any in this
respect.
A couple of years ago there was a string re: fitting fiberglass
end ribs. You know, the ones that you mount position lights to. One
lister was worried about what to do about a 1/4" gap between the wing
skin and the fiberglass. Another lister said "1/4" isn't bad, I had 3/4"
and just filled it in with bondo."
I 'm sure you get my point. I also agree, you can't live without a
heated workshop. It's hard enough getting myself out to polish without
having to microwave the Nuvite first!
do not archive
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Ruddiman
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, January 14, 2007 12:45 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Metal to Metal Adehisive
Hi Bill,
I see what you mean. I think a lot of the squabbles that get started
on this list are due to misunderstandings.
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive |
Hi Bob,
Where in Oregon are you?
Dave in Salem
----- Original Message -----
From: BadBob
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, January 14, 2007 8:56 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive
Hi guys, I am a new subscriber. My intent is to build a 601XL either
corvair or 0-200 powered. For Dave: I used to own a Thorp T-18 and had
two 2" covers on the bottom of the aircraft "glued" on with silicon. I
have had the aircraft up to 210MPH and they stayed on!
Bob in Oregon
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive |
Extreme Adhesives makes a complete line of adhesives that will meet any
requirement you may be looking for in Aluminum to Aluminum bonding.
The link below will take you to their comparison chart for materials and
strength of bonding.
http://extremeadhesives.com/guide-plastics.php?gclid=CIugiNGW4IkCFSLiYAodHVn
kFg
A nice paper on the virtues of Adhesive Bonding over Mechanical Bonding can
be found at the link below.
This is part of an aerospace industry study.
http://www.dreamweaverproductions.net/wrm2003/ind_abs.pdf
George
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Bonding metal |
Yep, those epoxies are ideal for the use that Dave expressed. But stick
with the slow cure type - the quick cure types are really handy but
don't seem to hold quite as well on aluminum.
Another important tip is to keep a bit of thickness of adhesive in the
joint rather than squeeze it out very thin. The extra thickness of
adhesive makes the 'sandwich' effect of aluminum/adhesive/aluminum more
rigid to prevent flexing in the joint.
Just press the patch on gently and leave the bead that's squeezed out
around the edge - don't try to clean it up while it's gooey. Wait until
it's set up to a 'soft' stage, then trim it off with a razor blade, then
wait until it's full hard to sand smooth. The result will be so neat
and tidy that you'll be tempted to put matching re-enforcing patches
around the other holes as well.....
JG
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, January 15, 2007 2:29 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Bonding metal
Two good choices for gluing metal are the epoxy adhesive T88 or
JB Weld. T88 is available from Wicks or Aircraft Spruce and JB Weld for
any WalMart store. Both work equally well and JB Weld now comes in a
quick setting formula.
Lots of commercial aircraft parts are glued or bonded together.
Best to scratch up the surfaces to be glue first for a better bond.
Bob, Wichita
Message 19
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| Subject: | Slats myth busted! |
----- Original Message -----
From: Carl Bertrand
Sent: Sunday, January 14, 2007 4:08 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Slats myth busted!
In a previous post, JD stated:
<Another bit of interesting evidence that has come to mind is to watch
those aircraft with retractable slats. I've seen a video of one
manufacturer doing very slow turns, with the slats on the inner wing
popping in and out on their own - no apparent change in handling. Also
Carl Bertrand's experiments with his retractable slat wing, when one
slat stuck - "....very little effect, only light aileron and rudder
required....". That just confirms the effect that I would expect from
my testing.>
I'm not sure what JD was confirming when he quoted me so I will clarify
what happened. I was on one of my early test flights with the new wing
and the plan called for completing a circuit with the slats out.
Unfortunately the wind was gusting at circuit height and the slats
retracted unexpectedly. On slowing one side did not deploy when they
should have at 10-12' AofA. I elected to land keeping the AofA at 12'
and the result was as quoted.
As expected the slats at that AofA are just starting to develop extra
lift and the split slat condition had little effect on the
controllability of the a/c.
As for the slats on the inside of a steep turn deploying first; that is
normal because they are sensing a slower airspeed and a higher AofA.
Slat deployment in all flight conditions I have tested has no effect on
the controls and I cannot tell what position they are in unless I look
at them. I check them visually before I crank in angles above 16' and
can safely fly in the low to mid 20s. Mid to high 20s is for show and
not very practical except if your in a slow speed scissors gunning for
somebody. I have not done that in a long time.
By the way, the reason the slats did not deploy on the test flight was
poor adjustment. In five years and 300 hrs they have operated flawlessly
with just routine maintenance.
Happy New Year and enjoy your 701 with or without slats.
Carl
Do not archive.
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive |
Hi Dave,
On 1/13/07, Dave Ruddiman <pacificpainting@comcast.net> wrote:
> I need some suggestions for sticking sticking aluminum to aluminum. I am
> making some pieces to cover gaps in my skins that are a little larger than I
> like. I would like to glue them on. They don't need to be removable.
I have had very good results with Scotch-Weld DP-460 epoxy applied
over either plain aluminum (degreased and scuffed) or over Cortec 373.
Here is a supplier --
http://cstsales.com/epoxy_adhesives.html
Ihab
--
Ihab A.B. Awad, Palo Alto, CA
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Slats myth busted! |
Yes, Carl, that's pretty much what I interpreted from your EAA
presentation, and it helped to give me confidence that there wouldn't be
radical changes in control from removing the fixed slats completely.
Your further quote, <Slat deployment in all flight conditions I have
tested has no effect on the controls.......> just confirms what we have
found in our experimenting with slats on and off.
I was really impressed with the experimental work you did in developing
your new wing - good work that leads to benefits for those of us who
seek to learn from the real life experience of others......
Tailwinds always,
JG
----- Original Message -----
From: Carl Bertrand
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, January 15, 2007 8:17 AM
Subject: Fw: Zenith-List: Slats myth busted!
----- Original Message -----
From: Carl Bertrand
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, January 14, 2007 4:08 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Slats myth busted!
In a previous post, JD stated:
<Another bit of interesting evidence that has come to mind is to watch
those aircraft with retractable slats. I've seen a video of one
manufacturer doing very slow turns, with the slats on the inner wing
popping in and out on their own - no apparent change in handling. Also
Carl Bertrand's experiments with his retractable slat wing, when one
slat stuck - "....very little effect, only light aileron and rudder
required....". That just confirms the effect that I would expect from
my testing.>
I'm not sure what JD was confirming when he quoted me so I will
clarify what happened. I was on one of my early test flights with the
new wing and the plan called for completing a circuit with the slats
out. Unfortunately the wind was gusting at circuit height and the slats
retracted unexpectedly. On slowing one side did not deploy when they
should have at 10-12' AofA. I elected to land keeping the AofA at 12'
and the result was as quoted.
As expected the slats at that AofA are just starting to develop extra
lift and the split slat condition had little effect on the
controllability of the a/c.
As for the slats on the inside of a steep turn deploying first; that
is normal because they are sensing a slower airspeed and a higher AofA.
Slat deployment in all flight conditions I have tested has no effect on
the controls and I cannot tell what position they are in unless I look
at them. I check them visually before I crank in angles above 16' and
can safely fly in the low to mid 20s. Mid to high 20s is for show and
not very practical except if your in a slow speed scissors gunning for
somebody. I have not done that in a long time.
By the way, the reason the slats did not deploy on the test flight was
poor adjustment. In five years and 300 hrs they have operated flawlessly
with just routine maintenance.
Happy New Year and enjoy your 701 with or without slats.
Carl
Do not archive.
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive |
Thanks.
I just looked through the link you sent. Really interesting stuff.
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: <ihab.awad@gmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 14, 2007 2:57 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Metal to Metal Adehisive
>
> Hi Dave,
>
> On 1/13/07, Dave Ruddiman <pacificpainting@comcast.net> wrote:
>> I need some suggestions for sticking sticking aluminum to aluminum. I am
>> making some pieces to cover gaps in my skins that are a little larger
>> than I
>> like. I would like to glue them on. They don't need to be removable.
>
> I have had very good results with Scotch-Weld DP-460 epoxy applied
> over either plain aluminum (degreased and scuffed) or over Cortec 373.
> Here is a supplier --
>
> http://cstsales.com/epoxy_adhesives.html
>
> Ihab
>
> --
> Ihab A.B. Awad, Palo Alto, CA
>
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Rear wing spar measurement |
Sounds like you have it well in hand. How are the flaps and ailerons going to
fit up? Will there be a bigger step? Shimming is an acceptable practice to get
things to fit.
--------
Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
Corvair Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=87640#87640
Message 24
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I have a c 85-12 cont. in my ch 600 and am wondering if some bodycan
tell me what size prop to use?I have a McCauley74-42and was told by a
company that services propellers that it can only be adjusted one more
time. I would appreciate hearing from some one that has this set
up. P.S. Iwant to use this plane on shorter fields.
Message 25
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Jim,
I have a CA65 on my CH600 taildrager, so I cannot help with the 85. My prop
is a wooden 64"52 pitch. Works very well with the 600. Any pictures of your
600? Don't hear much about them.*
*
--
Semper Fi,
Steven R. Hulland
CH 600 Taildragger
Amado, AZ
This and all other incoming/outgoing email, attachments and replies scanned
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free email and attachments.
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: position lights and strobes - tx! |
Hello, fellow listers
I'd like to thank all that offered comments / feedback on the position +
strobe lights.
Right now, I am leaning in the GS-Air direction.
However, I am trying to resist the idea of buying now: I am still many
months (years is more like it) away from flying, and the technology is no
doubt going to evolve before I get there.
Anyway, it was a good discussion - thanks to all.
Carlos
CH601-HD, plans
working on wing tip - without the fibreglass thingy.
Montreal, Canada - where spring arrived 3 months early.
Message 27
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Hi Dave,
Need a streamlined cover? Just raid the kitchen stove while the wife's
away! Those little aluminum drip pans under the burners can be cut into
segments that join to make neat little canoe shaped covers!
Also,tool alert! Harbor Freight sells a double tube flaring tool that
makes neat little raised beads on the ends of aluminum fuel lines - much
cheaper than a real live beading tool. Item # 40878-4BDA, $12.99
Have fun!
Dave, 701 with A80-8 Continental
Message 28
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| Subject: | Rear wing channel jigs? |
I'm working on the rear wing channels and just finished the left and right
600m pieces (7V6-2SP) .
According to the manual, you then set the jig to 380mm for the shorter piece
( 7V6-1 ) , but the length of the channel is 380mm, so there is no room for
the 7V6-3 that has to be attached.
The plans indicate that the completed piece should be 400mm from flange to
flange, so I want to think that the manual meant to specify 400mm for the
jig.
Can any previous builders verify that the jig should be set to 400mm instead
of 380?
Thanks,
--
John Marzulli
http://701Builder.blogspot.com/
"Flying a plane is no different than riding a bicycle... it's just a lot
harder to put baseball cards in the spokes.
Message 29
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Hello List:
I have two questions that I am sure there are good answer
for.
1. Is there a simple way to remove small dings from wing skins?
2. Does any one have a good design for inspection covers, round and
rectangular?
Thanks, John Read
CH701 - in Colorado
Tail group complete
Right wing nearing completion
Do not archive
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Rear wing channel jigs? |
Hi John:
I had the same problem. It is solved this way. The attachment
flange to rib #4 is made in the end of 7V6-1 prior to placing it in the fixture
that locates 7V6-3. There is a drawing of this on sheet 7-V-6 lower right
corner. Hope this helps.
Regards, John Read
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Two questions |
You can fill the dings. I used Super Fill, but there are a lot of others
you could use.
As far as inspection covers, you can just make them out of scrap
aluminum.
----- Original Message -----
From: JohnDRead@aol.com
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, January 14, 2007 9:49 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Two questions
Hello List:
I have two questions that I am sure there are good
answer for.
1. Is there a simple way to remove small dings from wing skins?
2. Does any one have a good design for inspection covers, round
and rectangular?
Thanks, John Read
CH701 - in Colorado
Tail group complete
Right wing nearing completion
Do not archive
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Rear wing channel jigs? |
John
Made mine yesterday. Set jig to 400mm,seems to work
Richard
701 work in [slow] progress.
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: John Marzulli
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, January 15, 2007 2:20 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Rear wing channel jigs?
uld be 400mm from flange to flange, so I want to think that the manual
meant to specify 400mm for the jig.
Can any previous builders verify that the jig should be set to 400mm
instead of 380?
Thanks,
--
John Marzulli
http://701Builder.blogspot.com/
"Flying a plane is no different than riding a bicycle... it's just a
lot harder to put baseball cards in the spokes.
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