---------------------------------------------------------- Zenith-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Sun 01/14/07: 32 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 04:14 AM - Re: Cutting control cables? (ronlee) 2. 05:36 AM - Re: Re: Cutting control cables? (Crvsecretary@aol.com) 3. 06:29 AM - Re: Re: Cutting control cables? (CH701) 4. 07:04 AM - Re: Re: Cutting control cables? (David Downey) 5. 07:30 AM - Bonding metal (Bob) 6. 07:31 AM - Re: Rear wing spar measurement (ashontz) 7. 08:46 AM - 601Xl Quick Build Kit () 8. 08:57 AM - Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive (BadBob) 9. 09:08 AM - Re: Re: Cutting control cables? (Monty Graves) 10. 09:12 AM - Re: Indexing a row of holes (Bill Naumuk) 11. 09:28 AM - Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive (Bill Naumuk) 12. 09:39 AM - Re: Rotax water temp probe holder (N601RT) 13. 09:50 AM - Re: Indexing a row of holes (Tim Juhl) 14. 11:13 AM - Re: Indexing a row of holes (Jaybannist@cs.com) 15. 11:22 AM - Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive (Dave Ruddiman) 16. 11:27 AM - Re: Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive (Dave Ruddiman) 17. 12:11 PM - Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive (George Race) 18. 01:10 PM - Re: Bonding metal (JG) 19. 01:17 PM - Fw: Slats myth busted! (Carl Bertrand) 20. 02:59 PM - Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive (ihab.awad@gmail.com) 21. 03:40 PM - Re: Slats myth busted! (JG) 22. 03:41 PM - Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive (Dave Ruddiman) 23. 04:32 PM - Re: Rear wing spar measurement (Ron Lendon) 24. 05:14 PM - propeller (Jim & MaryAnne Rutoski) 25. 05:58 PM - Re: propeller (Steve Hulland) 26. 06:23 PM - Re: position lights and strobes - tx! (Carlos Sa) 27. 09:12 PM - Domed covers (Dave and Pam Fisher) 28. 09:23 PM - Rear wing channel jigs? (John Marzulli) 29. 09:50 PM - Two questions (JohnDRead@aol.com) 30. 10:06 PM - Re: Rear wing channel jigs? (JohnDRead@aol.com) 31. 10:17 PM - Re: Two questions (Dave Ruddiman) 32. 10:54 PM - Re: Rear wing channel jigs? (Richard Cottingham) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 04:14:38 AM PST US Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Cutting control cables? From: "ronlee" I've used the following method for setting up proper length cables on three airplanes and it works well. Get a roll of tie wire from a place like Home Depot. String the wire where the cables are to go and set then up to the proper length. Test the system with the tie wire in place. When you get the proper length remove the tie wire to your bench and make the cables up the same length. You will be surprised how many places one will use the remaining tie wire. It works great for hanging parts for painting -------- Ron Lee Tucson, Arizona Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=87505#87505 ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 05:36:50 AM PST US From: Crvsecretary@aol.com Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Re: Cutting control cables? Good Morning Ron: "Tie wire" ??? Where does Home Despot keep this? Looks like I could use a roll !! I want to run this to the aileron bell crank before I button up my wings but before I get the controls kit. Thanks for the tip. Regards, Tracy Smith Naugatuck, CT 601xl N458XL (reserved) do not archive In a message dated 1/14/2007 7:16:09 AM Eastern Standard Time, rlee468@comcast.net writes: --> Zenith-List message posted by: "ronlee" I've used the following method for setting up proper length cables on three airplanes and it works well. Get a roll of tie wire from a place like Home Depot. String the wire where the cables are to go and set then up to the proper length. Test the system with the tie wire in place. When you get the proper length remove the tie wire to your bench and make the cables up the same length. You will be surprised how many places one will use the remaining tie wire. It works great for hanging parts for painting -------- Ron Lee Tucson, Arizona ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 06:29:47 AM PST US From: "CH701" <701stol@gmail.com> Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Re: Cutting control cables? I believe Ron (correct me if I'm wrong) was referring to the steel wire sold for the purpose of supporting (tieing up) suspended ceiling framework... Todd Henning West Bend, WI 701 Scratch build _____ From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Crvsecretary@aol.com Sent: Sunday, January 14, 2007 7:35 AM Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Re: Cutting control cables? Good Morning Ron: "Tie wire" ??? Where does Home Despot keep this? Looks like I could use a roll !! I want to run this to the aileron bell crank before I button up my wings but before I get the controls kit. Thanks for the tip. Regards, Tracy Smith Naugatuck, CT 601xl N458XL (reserved) do not archive In a message dated 1/14/2007 7:16:09 AM Eastern Standard Time, rlee468@comcast.net writes: I've used the following method for setting up proper length cables on three airplanes and it works well. Get a roll of tie wire from a place like Home Depot. String the wire where the cables are to go and set then up to the proper length. Test the system with the tie wire in place. When you get the proper length remove the tie wire to your bench and make the cables up the same length. You will be surprised how many places one will use the remaining tie wire. It works great for hanging parts for painting -------- Ron Lee Tucson, Arizona ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 07:04:05 AM PST US From: David Downey Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Re: Cutting control cables? Seems like the poly coated clothesline cable or picture hanging wire might also be useful for this? CH701 <701stol@gmail.com> wrote: I believe Ron (correct me if I'm wrong) was referring to the steel wire sold for the purpose of supporting (tieing up) suspended ceiling framework... Todd Henning West Bend, WI 701 Scratch build --------------------------------- From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Crvsecretary@aol.com Sent: Sunday, January 14, 2007 7:35 AM Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Re: Cutting control cables? Good Morning Ron: "Tie wire" ??? Where does Home Despot keep this? Looks like I could use a roll !! I want to run this to the aileron bell crank before I button up my wings but before I get the controls kit. Thanks for the tip. Regards, Tracy Smith Naugatuck, CT 601xl N458XL (reserved) do not archive In a message dated 1/14/2007 7:16:09 AM Eastern Standard Time, rlee468@comcast.net writes: I've used the following method for setting up proper length cables on three airplanes and it works well. Get a roll of tie wire from a place like Home Depot. String the wire where the cables are to go and set then up to the proper length. Test the system with the tie wire in place. When you get the proper length remove the tie wire to your bench and make the cables up the same length. You will be surprised how many places one will use the remaining tie wire. It works great for hanging parts for painting -------- Ron Lee Tucson, Arizona href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List">http://www.matronhref="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com Dave Downey Harleysville (SE) PA --------------------------------- Don't be flakey. Get Yahoo! Mail for Mobile and always stay connected to friends. ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 07:30:16 AM PST US From: "Bob" Subject: Zenith-List: Bonding metal Two good choices for gluing metal are the epoxy adhesive T88 or JB Weld. T88 is available from Wicks or Aircraft Spruce and JB Weld for any WalMar t store. Both work equally well and JB Weld now comes in a quick setting formula. Lots of commercial aircraft parts are glued or bonded together. Best to scratch up the surfaces to be glue first for a better bond. Bob, Wichita ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 07:31:58 AM PST US Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Rear wing spar measurement From: "ashontz" I took a closer look at this ths morning. The spar that I made acutually measures about 104m-105mm (measured in several spots along the 12' foot length). I test clamped the rib to the spar with the rib upside down on the table and clamped a 3 foot by 6in piece of .025 along the top edge. It actually looks pretty good. The clamps (small finger spring clamps from Home Depot) pulled everything together nicely and no warping on the top of the skin was noticed. I think I'm actually good here. I'll post some pix though. -------- CH601XL - Corvair Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=87526#87526 ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 08:46:55 AM PST US From: Subject: Zenith-List: 601Xl Quick Build Kit List Members: I have some specific questions regarding the Zenith 601XL Quick-Build Kit and I don't want to take space on this list if the questions could be answered by direct email. If any list member is building this type of kit and has the time to answer a few questions, please contact me at djdormer@cox.net D.J. Dormer Hampton Virginia 23604 ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 08:57:45 AM PST US From: "BadBob" Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive Hi guys, I am a new subscriber. My intent is to build a 601XL either corvair or 0-200 powered. For Dave: I used to own a Thorp T-18 and had two 2" covers on the bottom of the aircraft "glued" on with silicon. I have had the aircraft up to 210MPH and they stayed on! Bob in Oregon ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 09:08:58 AM PST US From: Monty Graves Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Re: Cutting control cables? Tie wire is found in the cement dept. where they sell lengths of rbar. (reinforcing steel bars that go in concrete). Tie wire is used to tie these steel bars together in concrete construction. It comes in plastic coated, or bare wire..... get the plastic coated, it doesn't rust. comes in a coil of a couple of pounds i.e. several hundred feet. 4-5 bucks....... Looks like and about the diameter of the once common baling wire, for those not familiar with tie wire. handy stuff to have around...... almost as handy duck tape..... in fact if it can't be fixed with duck tape or baling wire.... throw the sum b*tch away and get a new one :-) M. At 08:35 AM 1/14/2007 -0500, you wrote: >Good Morning Ron: > >"Tie wire" ??? Where does Home Despot keep this? Looks like I could use >a roll !! I want to run this to the aileron bell crank before I button up >my wings but before I get the controls kit. > >Thanks for the tip. > >Regards, > >Tracy Smith >Naugatuck, CT >601xl N458XL (reserved) >do not archive > ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 09:12:26 AM PST US From: "Bill Naumuk" Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Indexing a row of holes Jay- I forgot about an old layout trick. Draw a line with a fine Sharpie from one end hole to another. Center punch one end hole. Then set a draftsman's compass with two points (No lead) to 20mm, stick one point in the first punch hole and swing an arc across the Sharpie line. You can then leapfrog your way to the second end hole. If you wind up with the last arc right on the second end hole, go back and center punch the scribed intersections. You won't be off more than a couple thou total, and everything will be evenly spaced. do not archive Bill Naumuk HDS Fuselage Townville, Pa ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Naumuk" Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 11:56 PM Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Indexing a row of holes > > Jay- > Ideally, use a Bridgeport vertical mill. Other than that, use an > ultra-fine point Sharpie and a "Clicker" center punch. > Bill Naumuk > HDS Fuselage > Townville, Pa > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > To: > Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 9:09 PM > Subject: Zenith-List: Indexing a row of holes > > >> >> Listers, >> >> I am in the process of making a sub-panel for my circuit breakers. The >> circuit breakers need to be located 20mm on center. Therefore, I need to >> drill holes in the sub-panel at 20mm O.C.; and I also need to drill holes >> in a .032 x 1/2" copper bus bar (fastened to the back side of the circuit >> breakers)at 20mm O.C. I will have two rows of circuit breakers, eight in >> each row. I don't feel that I can just mark them with a sharpie and get >> the accuracy I want. Does anyone have any method for accurately indexing >> holes like this? >> >> Jay in Dallas >> >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 09:28:36 AM PST US From: "Bill Naumuk" Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Metal to Metal Adehisive Dave- The problem is, you can never tell when someone's serious and when they're adding a tongue in cheek comment. I'm as guilty as any in this respect. A couple of years ago there was a string re: fitting fiberglass end ribs. You know, the ones that you mount position lights to. One lister was worried about what to do about a 1/4" gap between the wing skin and the fiberglass. Another lister said "1/4" isn't bad, I had 3/4" and just filled it in with bondo." I 'm sure you get my point. I also agree, you can't live without a heated workshop. It's hard enough getting myself out to polish without having to microwave the Nuvite first! do not archive Bill Naumuk HDS Fuselage Townville, Pa ----- Original Message ----- From: Dave Ruddiman To: zenith-list@matronics.com Sent: Sunday, January 14, 2007 12:45 AM Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Metal to Metal Adehisive Hi Bill, I see what you mean. I think a lot of the squabbles that get started on this list are due to misunderstandings. ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 09:39:39 AM PST US Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Rotax water temp probe holder From: "N601RT" George, I ordered a temperature sender fitting from Grand Rapids Technology. I could not find the coupler on their web site, so I ordered by emailing a request for a single port fitting with metric threads (to fit the standard Rotax probe). There were multiple configurations of the temperature sender fitting. I also referred to an article in May 2006 Kit planes which said GRT would be distributing the fittings. Regards, Roy N601RT: CH601HDS, nose gear, Rotax 912ULS, All electric, IFR equipped, 658hrs, 768 landings Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=87551#87551 ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 09:50:09 AM PST US Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Indexing a row of holes From: "Tim Juhl" What about using a rivet fan? Set it up and drill all the items one after another to insure the fan doesn't shift. You might drill the pilot holes in the bus first and use it as a drilling template for the panel. Tim -------- DO NOT ARCHIVE ______________ CFII Champ L16A flying Zodiac XL - Working on wings Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=87556#87556 ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 11:13:19 AM PST US From: Jaybannist@cs.com Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Indexing a row of holes Bill, It seems that I was overly concerned about accuracy. I simply used a scale and marked off 20mm increments, centerpunched and drilled pilot holes. I drilled three stacked bus bars at the same time and use one of the bus bars as a template to drill pilot holes in the sub panel. I test fitted several circuit breakers and it works out just fine. Thanks - Jay in Dallas Do not archive "Bill Naumuk" wrote: > >Jay- > I forgot about an old layout trick. > Draw a line with a fine Sharpie from one end hole to another. Center >punch one end hole. Then set a draftsman's compass with two points (No lead) >to 20mm, stick one point in the first punch hole and swing an arc across the >Sharpie line. You can then leapfrog your way to the second end hole. If you >wind up with the last arc right on the second end hole, go back and center >punch the scribed intersections. You won't be off more than a couple thou >total, and everything will be evenly spaced. > do not archive >Bill Naumuk >HDS Fuselage >Townville, Pa >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Bill Naumuk" >To: >Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 11:56 PM >Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Indexing a row of holes > > >> >> Jay- >> Ideally, use a Bridgeport vertical mill. Other than that, use an >> ultra-fine point Sharpie and a "Clicker" center punch. >> Bill Naumuk >> HDS Fuselage >> Townville, Pa >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: >> To: >> Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 9:09 PM >> Subject: Zenith-List: Indexing a row of holes >> >> >>> >>> Listers, >>> >>> I am in the process of making a sub-panel for my circuit breakers. The >>> circuit breakers need to be located 20mm on center. Therefore, I need to >>> drill holes in the sub-panel at 20mm O.C.; and I also need to drill holes >>> in a .032 x 1/2" copper bus bar (fastened to the back side of the circuit >>> breakers)at 20mm O.C. I will have two rows of circuit breakers, eight in >>> each row. I don't feel that I can just mark them with a sharpie and get >>> the accuracy I want. Does anyone have any method for accurately indexing >>> holes like this? >>> >>> Jay in Dallas >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 11:22:56 AM PST US From: "Dave Ruddiman" Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Metal to Metal Adehisive Hi Bill, I agree with D. all of the above. I've been watching the polishing episode to see what really works. I have thought about polishing just the slats on the 801, but I have plenty of time to decide that. I had a polished Ercoupe a few years ago. It came that way. It seemed to stay looking good for quite a while. I sold it to a couple of guys that were going to learn to fly in it. Last I heard about all they did was polish it. It did look good. On a hot sunny day I think you cold get a sunburn by just standing next to it. Dave ----- Original Message ----- From: Bill Naumuk To: zenith-list@matronics.com Sent: Sunday, January 14, 2007 9:28 AM Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Metal to Metal Adehisive Dave- The problem is, you can never tell when someone's serious and when they're adding a tongue in cheek comment. I'm as guilty as any in this respect. A couple of years ago there was a string re: fitting fiberglass end ribs. You know, the ones that you mount position lights to. One lister was worried about what to do about a 1/4" gap between the wing skin and the fiberglass. Another lister said "1/4" isn't bad, I had 3/4" and just filled it in with bondo." I 'm sure you get my point. I also agree, you can't live without a heated workshop. It's hard enough getting myself out to polish without having to microwave the Nuvite first! do not archive Bill Naumuk HDS Fuselage Townville, Pa ----- Original Message ----- From: Dave Ruddiman To: zenith-list@matronics.com Sent: Sunday, January 14, 2007 12:45 AM Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Metal to Metal Adehisive Hi Bill, I see what you mean. I think a lot of the squabbles that get started on this list are due to misunderstandings. ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 11:27:41 AM PST US From: "Dave Ruddiman" Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive Hi Bob, Where in Oregon are you? Dave in Salem ----- Original Message ----- From: BadBob To: zenith-list@matronics.com Sent: Sunday, January 14, 2007 8:56 AM Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive Hi guys, I am a new subscriber. My intent is to build a 601XL either corvair or 0-200 powered. For Dave: I used to own a Thorp T-18 and had two 2" covers on the bottom of the aircraft "glued" on with silicon. I have had the aircraft up to 210MPH and they stayed on! Bob in Oregon ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 12:11:14 PM PST US From: "George Race" Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive Extreme Adhesives makes a complete line of adhesives that will meet any requirement you may be looking for in Aluminum to Aluminum bonding. The link below will take you to their comparison chart for materials and strength of bonding. http://extremeadhesives.com/guide-plastics.php?gclid=CIugiNGW4IkCFSLiYAodHVn kFg A nice paper on the virtues of Adhesive Bonding over Mechanical Bonding can be found at the link below. This is part of an aerospace industry study. http://www.dreamweaverproductions.net/wrm2003/ind_abs.pdf George ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 01:10:58 PM PST US From: "JG" Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Bonding metal Yep, those epoxies are ideal for the use that Dave expressed. But stick with the slow cure type - the quick cure types are really handy but don't seem to hold quite as well on aluminum. Another important tip is to keep a bit of thickness of adhesive in the joint rather than squeeze it out very thin. The extra thickness of adhesive makes the 'sandwich' effect of aluminum/adhesive/aluminum more rigid to prevent flexing in the joint. Just press the patch on gently and leave the bead that's squeezed out around the edge - don't try to clean it up while it's gooey. Wait until it's set up to a 'soft' stage, then trim it off with a razor blade, then wait until it's full hard to sand smooth. The result will be so neat and tidy that you'll be tempted to put matching re-enforcing patches around the other holes as well..... JG ----- Original Message ----- From: Bob To: zenith-list@matronics.com Sent: Monday, January 15, 2007 2:29 AM Subject: Zenith-List: Bonding metal Two good choices for gluing metal are the epoxy adhesive T88 or JB Weld. T88 is available from Wicks or Aircraft Spruce and JB Weld for any WalMart store. Both work equally well and JB Weld now comes in a quick setting formula. Lots of commercial aircraft parts are glued or bonded together. Best to scratch up the surfaces to be glue first for a better bond. Bob, Wichita ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 01:17:05 PM PST US From: "Carl Bertrand" Subject: Fw: Zenith-List: Slats myth busted! ----- Original Message ----- From: Carl Bertrand Sent: Sunday, January 14, 2007 4:08 PM Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Slats myth busted! In a previous post, JD stated: I'm not sure what JD was confirming when he quoted me so I will clarify what happened. I was on one of my early test flights with the new wing and the plan called for completing a circuit with the slats out. Unfortunately the wind was gusting at circuit height and the slats retracted unexpectedly. On slowing one side did not deploy when they should have at 10-12' AofA. I elected to land keeping the AofA at 12' and the result was as quoted. As expected the slats at that AofA are just starting to develop extra lift and the split slat condition had little effect on the controllability of the a/c. As for the slats on the inside of a steep turn deploying first; that is normal because they are sensing a slower airspeed and a higher AofA. Slat deployment in all flight conditions I have tested has no effect on the controls and I cannot tell what position they are in unless I look at them. I check them visually before I crank in angles above 16' and can safely fly in the low to mid 20s. Mid to high 20s is for show and not very practical except if your in a slow speed scissors gunning for somebody. I have not done that in a long time. By the way, the reason the slats did not deploy on the test flight was poor adjustment. In five years and 300 hrs they have operated flawlessly with just routine maintenance. Happy New Year and enjoy your 701 with or without slats. Carl Do not archive. ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 02:59:03 PM PST US From: ihab.awad@gmail.com Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Metal to Metal Adehisive Hi Dave, On 1/13/07, Dave Ruddiman wrote: > I need some suggestions for sticking sticking aluminum to aluminum. I am > making some pieces to cover gaps in my skins that are a little larger than I > like. I would like to glue them on. They don't need to be removable. I have had very good results with Scotch-Weld DP-460 epoxy applied over either plain aluminum (degreased and scuffed) or over Cortec 373. Here is a supplier -- http://cstsales.com/epoxy_adhesives.html Ihab -- Ihab A.B. Awad, Palo Alto, CA ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 03:40:13 PM PST US From: "JG" Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Slats myth busted! Yes, Carl, that's pretty much what I interpreted from your EAA presentation, and it helped to give me confidence that there wouldn't be radical changes in control from removing the fixed slats completely. Your further quote, just confirms what we have found in our experimenting with slats on and off. I was really impressed with the experimental work you did in developing your new wing - good work that leads to benefits for those of us who seek to learn from the real life experience of others...... Tailwinds always, JG ----- Original Message ----- From: Carl Bertrand To: zenith-list@matronics.com Sent: Monday, January 15, 2007 8:17 AM Subject: Fw: Zenith-List: Slats myth busted! ----- Original Message ----- From: Carl Bertrand To: zenith-list@matronics.com Sent: Sunday, January 14, 2007 4:08 PM Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Slats myth busted! In a previous post, JD stated: I'm not sure what JD was confirming when he quoted me so I will clarify what happened. I was on one of my early test flights with the new wing and the plan called for completing a circuit with the slats out. Unfortunately the wind was gusting at circuit height and the slats retracted unexpectedly. On slowing one side did not deploy when they should have at 10-12' AofA. I elected to land keeping the AofA at 12' and the result was as quoted. As expected the slats at that AofA are just starting to develop extra lift and the split slat condition had little effect on the controllability of the a/c. As for the slats on the inside of a steep turn deploying first; that is normal because they are sensing a slower airspeed and a higher AofA. Slat deployment in all flight conditions I have tested has no effect on the controls and I cannot tell what position they are in unless I look at them. I check them visually before I crank in angles above 16' and can safely fly in the low to mid 20s. Mid to high 20s is for show and not very practical except if your in a slow speed scissors gunning for somebody. I have not done that in a long time. By the way, the reason the slats did not deploy on the test flight was poor adjustment. In five years and 300 hrs they have operated flawlessly with just routine maintenance. Happy New Year and enjoy your 701 with or without slats. Carl Do not archive. ________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ Time: 03:41:57 PM PST US From: "Dave Ruddiman" Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Metal to Metal Adehisive Thanks. I just looked through the link you sent. Really interesting stuff. Dave ----- Original Message ----- From: Sent: Sunday, January 14, 2007 2:57 PM Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Metal to Metal Adehisive > > Hi Dave, > > On 1/13/07, Dave Ruddiman wrote: >> I need some suggestions for sticking sticking aluminum to aluminum. I am >> making some pieces to cover gaps in my skins that are a little larger >> than I >> like. I would like to glue them on. They don't need to be removable. > > I have had very good results with Scotch-Weld DP-460 epoxy applied > over either plain aluminum (degreased and scuffed) or over Cortec 373. > Here is a supplier -- > > http://cstsales.com/epoxy_adhesives.html > > Ihab > > -- > Ihab A.B. Awad, Palo Alto, CA > > > ________________________________ Message 23 ____________________________________ Time: 04:32:08 PM PST US Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Rear wing spar measurement From: "Ron Lendon" Sounds like you have it well in hand. How are the flaps and ailerons going to fit up? Will there be a bigger step? Shimming is an acceptable practice to get things to fit. -------- Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI Corvair Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-) http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=87640#87640 ________________________________ Message 24 ____________________________________ Time: 05:14:53 PM PST US From: "Jim & MaryAnne Rutoski" Subject: Zenith-List: propeller I have a c 85-12 cont. in my ch 600 and am wondering if some bodycan tell me what size prop to use?I have a McCauley74-42and was told by a company that services propellers that it can only be adjusted one more time. I would appreciate hearing from some one that has this set up. P.S. Iwant to use this plane on shorter fields. ________________________________ Message 25 ____________________________________ Time: 05:58:49 PM PST US From: "Steve Hulland" Subject: Re: Zenith-List: propeller Jim, I have a CA65 on my CH600 taildrager, so I cannot help with the 85. My prop is a wooden 64"52 pitch. Works very well with the 600. Any pictures of your 600? Don't hear much about them.* * -- Semper Fi, Steven R. Hulland CH 600 Taildragger Amado, AZ This and all other incoming/outgoing email, attachments and replies scanned prior to opening/sending and uses an external firewall to help insure virus free email and attachments. ________________________________ Message 26 ____________________________________ Time: 06:23:20 PM PST US From: "Carlos Sa" Subject: Re: Zenith-List: position lights and strobes - tx! Hello, fellow listers I'd like to thank all that offered comments / feedback on the position + strobe lights. Right now, I am leaning in the GS-Air direction. However, I am trying to resist the idea of buying now: I am still many months (years is more like it) away from flying, and the technology is no doubt going to evolve before I get there. Anyway, it was a good discussion - thanks to all. Carlos CH601-HD, plans working on wing tip - without the fibreglass thingy. Montreal, Canada - where spring arrived 3 months early. ________________________________ Message 27 ____________________________________ Time: 09:12:01 PM PST US From: Dave and Pam Fisher Subject: Zenith-List: Domed covers Hi Dave, Need a streamlined cover? Just raid the kitchen stove while the wife's away! Those little aluminum drip pans under the burners can be cut into segments that join to make neat little canoe shaped covers! Also,tool alert! Harbor Freight sells a double tube flaring tool that makes neat little raised beads on the ends of aluminum fuel lines - much cheaper than a real live beading tool. Item # 40878-4BDA, $12.99 Have fun! Dave, 701 with A80-8 Continental ________________________________ Message 28 ____________________________________ Time: 09:23:41 PM PST US From: "John Marzulli" Subject: Zenith-List: Rear wing channel jigs? I'm working on the rear wing channels and just finished the left and right 600m pieces (7V6-2SP) . According to the manual, you then set the jig to 380mm for the shorter piece ( 7V6-1 ) , but the length of the channel is 380mm, so there is no room for the 7V6-3 that has to be attached. The plans indicate that the completed piece should be 400mm from flange to flange, so I want to think that the manual meant to specify 400mm for the jig. Can any previous builders verify that the jig should be set to 400mm instead of 380? Thanks, -- John Marzulli http://701Builder.blogspot.com/ "Flying a plane is no different than riding a bicycle... it's just a lot harder to put baseball cards in the spokes. ________________________________ Message 29 ____________________________________ Time: 09:50:06 PM PST US From: JohnDRead@aol.com Subject: Zenith-List: Two questions Hello List: I have two questions that I am sure there are good answer for. 1. Is there a simple way to remove small dings from wing skins? 2. Does any one have a good design for inspection covers, round and rectangular? Thanks, John Read CH701 - in Colorado Tail group complete Right wing nearing completion Do not archive ________________________________ Message 30 ____________________________________ Time: 10:06:56 PM PST US From: JohnDRead@aol.com Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Rear wing channel jigs? Hi John: I had the same problem. It is solved this way. The attachment flange to rib #4 is made in the end of 7V6-1 prior to placing it in the fixture that locates 7V6-3. There is a drawing of this on sheet 7-V-6 lower right corner. Hope this helps. Regards, John Read ________________________________ Message 31 ____________________________________ Time: 10:17:27 PM PST US From: "Dave Ruddiman" Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Two questions You can fill the dings. I used Super Fill, but there are a lot of others you could use. As far as inspection covers, you can just make them out of scrap aluminum. ----- Original Message ----- From: JohnDRead@aol.com To: zenith-list@matronics.com Sent: Sunday, January 14, 2007 9:49 PM Subject: Zenith-List: Two questions Hello List: I have two questions that I am sure there are good answer for. 1. Is there a simple way to remove small dings from wing skins? 2. Does any one have a good design for inspection covers, round and rectangular? Thanks, John Read CH701 - in Colorado Tail group complete Right wing nearing completion Do not archive ________________________________ Message 32 ____________________________________ Time: 10:54:47 PM PST US From: "Richard Cottingham" Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Rear wing channel jigs? John Made mine yesterday. Set jig to 400mm,seems to work Richard 701 work in [slow] progress. do not archive ----- Original Message ----- From: John Marzulli To: zenith-list@matronics.com Sent: Monday, January 15, 2007 2:20 PM Subject: Zenith-List: Rear wing channel jigs? uld be 400mm from flange to flange, so I want to think that the manual meant to specify 400mm for the jig. Can any previous builders verify that the jig should be set to 400mm instead of 380? Thanks, -- John Marzulli http://701Builder.blogspot.com/ "Flying a plane is no different than riding a bicycle... it's just a lot harder to put baseball cards in the spokes. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Other Matronics Email List Services ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Post A New Message zenith-list@matronics.com UN/SUBSCRIBE http://www.matronics.com/subscription List FAQ http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Zenith-List.htm Web Forum Interface To Lists http://forums.matronics.com Matronics List Wiki http://wiki.matronics.com Full Archive Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search 7-Day List Browse http://www.matronics.com/browse/zenith-list Browse Digests http://www.matronics.com/digest/zenith-list Browse Other Lists http://www.matronics.com/browse Live Online Chat! http://www.matronics.com/chat Archive Downloading http://www.matronics.com/archives Photo Share http://www.matronics.com/photoshare Other Email Lists http://www.matronics.com/emaillists Contributions http://www.matronics.com/contribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.