Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:51 AM - Re: position lights and strobes - tx! (John Bolding)
2. 05:12 AM - Re: Rear wing spar measurement (ashontz)
3. 06:29 AM - Re: Two questions (Noel Loveys)
4. 06:44 AM - Re: Domed covers (David Downey)
5. 07:01 AM - Re: Two questions (Dino Bortolin)
6. 07:46 AM - 601XL canopy questions? (David Downey)
7. 07:49 AM - Inspection covers (LarryMcFarland)
8. 09:21 AM - Re: Inspection covers (Noel Loveys)
9. 11:30 AM - Re: Inspection covers (Terry Turnquist)
10. 11:34 AM - Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive (David Downey)
11. 12:12 PM - Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive (Dave Ruddiman)
12. 12:12 PM - Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive (Dave Ruddiman)
13. 12:29 PM - Re: Painfully learned polishing tips (PatrickW)
14. 12:57 PM - Re: Inspection covers (LarryMcFarland)
15. 02:38 PM - Re: Rear wing spar measurement (Ron Lendon)
16. 03:26 PM - Re: Indexing a row of holes (Bill Naumuk)
17. 03:29 PM - Re: Re: Painfully learned polishing tips (Bill Naumuk)
18. 03:49 PM - Repairman Course/Rainbow Aviation ()
19. 04:11 PM - Re: Re: Painfully learned polishing tips (John Bolding)
20. 04:17 PM - Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive (David Downey)
21. 05:02 PM - Prince P-Tip Propeller (Tim Juhl)
22. 05:05 PM - Wheel pants for sale (Tim Juhl)
23. 07:12 PM - Re: Rear wing channel jigs? (lane_jones)
24. 07:22 PM - How to lay out your panel (partial instructions) (Kevin Kinney)
25. 10:34 PM - Re: Inspection covers (JohnDRead@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: position lights and strobes - tx! |
Keep resisting, my experience is that strobe components deteriate over
time unless you run them periodically, have had buddies that ended up
buying twice as power supply that sat on the shelf for yrs wouldn't fire
up. Check with the manufacturers. LOW&SLOW John
I'd like to thank all that offered comments / feedback on the position +
strobe lights.
However, I am trying to resist the idea of buying now: I am still many
months (years is more like it) away from flying, and the technology is
no doubt going to evolve before I get there.
Carlos
CH601-HD, plans
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Rear wing spar measurement |
Ron Lendon wrote:
> Sounds like you have it well in hand. How are the flaps and ailerons going to
fit up? Will there be a bigger step? Shimming is an acceptable practice to
get things to fit.
The flaps and ailerons should be ok. I talked with Scott Laughlin, he recommended
just making the flaps and ailerons to size per the plans. 2mm tops shouldn't
be a problem.
How would you go about making a shim if need be? I was thinking about this if it
came to it. I figued if I had to shim for some reason that I'd make an L out
of .025 or .040. maybe 20mm wide and afix it to the rib (riveted on the side
of the rib) where the gap is, that way I'd fill in the space as well as not have
to worry about the shim moving when it came time to drill and rivet the wing
skin.
--------
CH601XL - Corvair
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=87722#87722
Message 3
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You can buy inspection covers, drill/cut the appropriate holes and hold
them
in place with Tinnerman nuts. Normally inspection ports are only put on
the
bottom of lifting surfaces where air pressure will help hold them in
place.
If a port has to be on an upper skin it has to; be as small as possible,
have a reasonably strong retaining ring installed for reinforcement and
use
much more substantial fasteners than Tinnerman nuts. Best advice don't
even
consider it..
As for the dings... if they are small enough fill then with epoxy, sand
back
and repaint. Larger dents may require drilling small holes and pulling
the
dent out with a slap hammer. You can then use a blind rivet to fill the
hole. Larger dents again... replace the skin in that area.
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
JohnDRead@aol.com
Sent: Monday, January 15, 2007 2:19 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Two questions
Hello List:
I have two questions that I am sure there are good
answer
for.
1. Is there a simple way to remove small dings from wing skins?
2. Does any one have a good design for inspection covers, round and
rectangular?
Thanks, John Read
CH701 - in Colorado
Tail group complete
Right wing nearing completion
Do not archive
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Domed covers |
Hello Dave;
How do you make a beaded line in a tool designed for flares and double flares?
Are you simply end compressing the tubing to give a bulge or is there a way
to actually form a defined bead?
Thanks.
Dave in SE pA
601XL/Corvair?
Dave and Pam Fisher <dpfisher@scottsbluff.net> wrote:
Hi Dave,
Need a streamlined cover? Just raid the kitchen stove while the wife's
away! Those little aluminum drip pans under the burners can be cut into
segments that join to make neat little canoe shaped covers!
Also,tool alert! Harbor Freight sells a double tube flaring tool that
makes neat little raised beads on the ends of aluminum fuel lines - much
cheaper than a real live beading tool. Item # 40878-4BDA, $12.99
Have fun!
Dave, 701 with A80-8 Continental
Dave Downey
Harleysville (SE) PA
---------------------------------
Food fight? Enjoy some healthy debate
in the Yahoo! Answers Food & Drink Q&A.
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Two questions |
I've rolled some small dents out with a tablespoon. Put something
polished under the dent, like a scrap piece of steel or aluminum
plate, and then gently rock the spoon back and forth over the dent.
Dino
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> JohnDRead@aol.com
> Sent: Monday, January 15, 2007 2:19 AM
> To: zenith-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Zenith-List: Two questions
>
>
> Hello List:
> I have two questions that I am sure there are good answer
> for.
>
> 1. Is there a simple way to remove small dings from wing skins?
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | 601XL canopy questions? |
Hello;
I am not building an RV; I am building a CH601XL. However, I am
studying very seriously the consequences of using the canopy for an
RV6, 7, or 9 in the tip up mode. I keep hearing rumors that someone
else has tried it and got nothing but trouble. I would like 2 things:
1. If someone knows who that might be and would forward my e-mail to
them I would appreciate it very much.
2. I would also like to get a digital photo or photocopy of the
pages of the RV plans that cover that installation in any model for
the saek of comparing/contrasting the tip-up installations in the RV
and XL. Another RVator did send the pages that apply to teh slider
but it is just too different to be useful.
Van's has stated that they will sell any piece of their installation
to a non builder, canopy, frame components, and fittings as needed.
I did not think to ask them if they would sell those pages of the
drawings.
I realize that I would have to change the contours of the forward
deck and the turtledeck a little but the design width is very
similar and the length appears to be manageable.
Thanks.
Dave Downey
Harleysville (SE) PA
Zodiac 601XL/Corvair?
---------------------------------
Now that's room service! Choose from over 150,000 hotels
in 45,000 destinations on Yahoo! Travel to find your fit.
Message 7
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| Subject: | Inspection covers |
Hi John,
I like the round ones for wings and fuselage sides.
I located inspection holes each side of the fuselage just about 10
inches ahead of the bulkhead and above where cables exit.
These holes were cut by hand with a fly-cutter. The cutting point needs
to be flat-side out to get a flush square edge. The
center holes are pre-drilled, 1/16 pilot, then a sharp drill the same
size as the center-guide drill in your fly-cutter. Use light
pressure for both drilling and fly-cutting by hand. Do a sample piece
first to get the feel for the process.
It takes only about 10 minutes to cut a nice hole in the fuselage by
hand, about 1 second to mess one up using
a drill, so do the fly-cutting manually in the same way that you'd use a
compass.
See links,
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/largeassembly2/full/inspectail.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/largeassembly2/full/innertail.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/rudder/full/rudelev.gif
I cut 5-inch diameter disks from .040 6061-T6, spun them on a lathe to
reduce a 1/4 inch edge to .038 so that they
stay centered inside the 4-1/2 inch diameter inspection hole. I imagine
three or four recess head pop rivets
could have been used to do the same centering action.
The spiders are just a 5-3/4 inch .040 6061-T6 disk that have been cut
to an X with legs that are 7/8-inch wide,
extending to within 7/8-inch of the center hole. The spider is bent
1/2 inch in from the tips, 3/4 inch out from the
center so the ends are flat and the center of the spider is exactly 1/2
inch above the disk it sets on.
8-32 rivnuts and 1-inch long recess head stainless screws secure the two
pieces. These are easily removed and
replaced by simply loosening and tightening the screw and there is no
noticeable deformation nor do the screws need to be
tightened more than snug. See link.
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/wing/inspectionpanels/full/spiders.jpg
On the under wing disks, I added a screw to the lead edge of the disk to
grab a j-nut on the spider and a hole in the skin
which keeps the edge down tight and unaffected by the deflected air up
front. Not needed at the fuselage though.
See links.
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/wing/inspectionpanels/full/accessspydersafety.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/wing/inspectionpanels/full/accessplate2.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/wing/inspectionpanels/full/accessplate3.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/paint/full/601ezclosefrtrt.gif
These inspection covers work quite well and will not give you any
trouble in the air or otherwise.
Hope this is useful.
Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
Message 8
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| Subject: | Inspection covers |
A truly beautiful job on your plane.
One question though ... For what radio is the longer antenna on the back of
your plane used??
Noel
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> LarryMcFarland
> Sent: Monday, January 15, 2007 12:18 PM
> To: JohnDRead@aol.com; zenith-list
> Subject: Zenith-List: Inspection covers
>
>
> <larry@macsmachine.com>
>
> Hi John,
> I like the round ones for wings and fuselage sides.
> I located inspection holes each side of the fuselage just about 10
> inches ahead of the bulkhead and above where cables exit.
> These holes were cut by hand with a fly-cutter. The cutting
> point needs
> to be flat-side out to get a flush square edge. The
> center holes are pre-drilled, 1/16 pilot, then a sharp drill the same
> size as the center-guide drill in your fly-cutter. Use light
> pressure for both drilling and fly-cutting by hand. Do a
> sample piece
> first to get the feel for the process.
> It takes only about 10 minutes to cut a nice hole in the fuselage by
> hand, about 1 second to mess one up using
> a drill, so do the fly-cutting manually in the same way that
> you'd use a
> compass.
> See links,
> http://www.macsmachine.com/images/largeassembly2/full/inspectail.gif
> http://www.macsmachine.com/images/largeassembly2/full/innertail.gif
> http://www.macsmachine.com/images/rudder/full/rudelev.gif
>
> I cut 5-inch diameter disks from .040 6061-T6, spun them on a
> lathe to
> reduce a 1/4 inch edge to .038 so that they
> stay centered inside the 4-1/2 inch diameter inspection hole.
> I imagine
> three or four recess head pop rivets
> could have been used to do the same centering action.
>
> The spiders are just a 5-3/4 inch .040 6061-T6 disk that have
> been cut
> to an X with legs that are 7/8-inch wide,
> extending to within 7/8-inch of the center hole. The spider is bent
> 1/2 inch in from the tips, 3/4 inch out from the
> center so the ends are flat and the center of the spider is
> exactly 1/2
> inch above the disk it sets on.
>
> 8-32 rivnuts and 1-inch long recess head stainless screws
> secure the two
> pieces. These are easily removed and
> replaced by simply loosening and tightening the screw and there is no
> noticeable deformation nor do the screws need to be
> tightened more than snug. See link.
> http://www.macsmachine.com/images/wing/inspectionpanels/full/s
piders.jpg
On the under wing disks, I added a screw to the lead edge of the disk to
grab a j-nut on the spider and a hole in the skin
which keeps the edge down tight and unaffected by the deflected air up
front. Not needed at the fuselage though.
See links.
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/wing/inspectionpanels/full/accessspydersaf
ety.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/wing/inspectionpanels/full/accessplate2.gi
f
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/wing/inspectionpanels/full/accessplate3.gi
f
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/paint/full/601ezclosefrtrt.gif
These inspection covers work quite well and will not give you any
trouble in the air or otherwise.
Hope this is useful.
Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Inspection covers |
Larry, you da man!
Terry Turnquist
601XL-Plans
St. Peters, MO
LarryMcFarland <larry@macsmachine.com> wrote:
Hi John,
I like the round ones for wings and fuselage sides.
I located inspection holes each side of the fuselage just about 10
inches ahead of the bulkhead and above where cables exit.
These holes were cut by hand with a fly-cutter. The cutting point needs
to be flat-side out to get a flush square edge. The
center holes are pre-drilled, 1/16 pilot, then a sharp drill the same
size as the center-guide drill in your fly-cutter. Use light
pressure for both drilling and fly-cutting by hand. Do a sample piece
first to get the feel for the process.
It takes only about 10 minutes to cut a nice hole in the fuselage by
hand, about 1 second to mess one up using
a drill, so do the fly-cutting manually in the same way that you'd use a
compass.
See links,
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/largeassembly2/full/inspectail.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/largeassembly2/full/innertail.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/rudder/full/rudelev.gif
I cut 5-inch diameter disks from .040 6061-T6, spun them on a lathe to
reduce a 1/4 inch edge to .038 so that they
stay centered inside the 4-1/2 inch diameter inspection hole. I imagine
three or four recess head pop rivets
could have been used to do the same centering action.
The spiders are just a 5-3/4 inch .040 6061-T6 disk that have been cut
to an X with legs that are 7/8-inch wide,
extending to within 7/8-inch of the center hole. The spider is bent
1/2 inch in from the tips, 3/4 inch out from the
center so the ends are flat and the center of the spider is exactly 1/2
inch above the disk it sets on.
8-32 rivnuts and 1-inch long recess head stainless screws secure the two
pieces. These are easily removed and
replaced by simply loosening and tightening the screw and there is no
noticeable deformation nor do the screws need to be
tightened more than snug. See link.
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/wing/inspectionpanels/full/spiders.jpg
On the under wing disks, I added a screw to the lead edge of the disk to
grab a j-nut on the spider and a hole in the skin
which keeps the edge down tight and unaffected by the deflected air up
front. Not needed at the fuselage though.
See links.
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/wing/inspectionpanels/full/accessspydersafety.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/wing/inspectionpanels/full/accessplate2.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/wing/inspectionpanels/full/accessplate3.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/paint/full/601ezclosefrtrt.gif
These inspection covers work quite well and will not give you any
trouble in the air or otherwise.
Hope this is useful.
Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
---------------------------------
Looking for earth-friendly autos?
Browse Top Cars by "Green Rating" at Yahoo! Autos' Green Center.
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive |
Hey Dave, maybe these would do the job without bonding on metal disks?
http://www.aircraftextras.com/FuelDrainFairings.htm
Dave Ruddiman <pacificpainting@comcast.net> wrote:
Hi All,
I need some suggestions for sticking sticking aluminum to aluminum. I am making
some pieces to cover gaps in my skins that are a little larger than I like.
I would like to glue them on. They don't need to be removable.
Thanks,
Dave in Salem.
It's nice to have a heated shop.
Dave Downey
Harleysville (SE) PA
Zodiac 601XL/Corvair?
---------------------------------
Bored stiff? Loosen up...
Download and play hundreds of games for free on Yahoo! Games.
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive |
----- Original Message -----
From: David Downey
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, January 15, 2007 11:34 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Metal to Metal Adehisive
Hey Dave, maybe these would do the job without bonding on metal disks?
http://www.aircraftextras.com/FuelDrainFairings.htm
Dave Ruddiman <pacificpainting@comcast.net> wrote:
Hi All,
I need some suggestions for sticking sticking aluminum to aluminum.
I am making some pieces to cover gaps in my skins that are a little
larger than I like. I would like to glue them on. They don't need to be
removable.
Thanks,
Bored stiff? Loosen up...
Download and play hundreds of games for free on Yahoo! Games.
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive |
I don't know what I did, but I just sent something.
I couldn't get the site to open.
----- Original Message -----
From: David Downey
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, January 15, 2007 11:34 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Metal to Metal Adehisive
Hey Dave, maybe these would do the job without bonding on metal disks?
http://www.aircraftextras.com/FuelDrainFairings.htm
Dave Ruddiman <pacificpainting@comcast.net> wrote:
Hi All,
I need some suggestions for sticking sticking aluminum to aluminum.
I am making some pieces to cover gaps in my skins that are a little
larger than I like. I would like to glue them on. They don't need to be
removable.
Thanks,
Bored stiff? Loosen up...
Download and play hundreds of games for free on Yahoo! Games.
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Painfully learned polishing tips |
This is great information.
We see a lot of polished planes at Oshkosh every year, and they do look nice.
I often wonder how good they look during the rest of the year.
Maybe you'll be able to tell us... :D
- PatrickW
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=87843#87843
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Inspection covers |
Hi Noel,
Thank you, the rear antenna is for the ELT and the forward one is for
the ICom AC200.
Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
do not archive
Noel Loveys wrote:
>
> A truly beautiful job on your plane.
>
> One question though ... For what radio is the longer antenna on the back of
> your plane used??
>
> Noel
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Rear wing spar measurement |
With only 1mm per side I was thinking of .040" strips where needed on the rib flange.
The rivets through the skin/strip/rib will hold the strips in place.
--------
Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
Corvair Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=87866#87866
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Indexing a row of holes |
Jay-
Glad everything worked out.
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: <Jaybannist@cs.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 14, 2007 2:09 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Indexing a row of holes
>
> Bill,
>
> It seems that I was overly concerned about accuracy. I simply used a
> scale and marked off 20mm increments, centerpunched and drilled pilot
> holes. I drilled three stacked bus bars at the same time and use one of
> the bus bars as a template to drill pilot holes in the sub panel. I test
> fitted several circuit breakers and it works out just fine.
>
> Thanks - Jay in Dallas
> Do not archive
>
>
> "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk@alltel.net> wrote:
>
>>
>>Jay-
>> I forgot about an old layout trick.
>> Draw a line with a fine Sharpie from one end hole to another. Center
>>punch one end hole. Then set a draftsman's compass with two points (No
>>lead)
>>to 20mm, stick one point in the first punch hole and swing an arc across
>>the
>>Sharpie line. You can then leapfrog your way to the second end hole. If
>>you
>>wind up with the last arc right on the second end hole, go back and center
>>punch the scribed intersections. You won't be off more than a couple thou
>>total, and everything will be evenly spaced.
>> do not archive
>>Bill Naumuk
>>HDS Fuselage
>>Townville, Pa
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk@alltel.net>
>>To: <zenith-list@matronics.com>
>>Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 11:56 PM
>>Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Indexing a row of holes
>>
>>
>>>
>>> Jay-
>>> Ideally, use a Bridgeport vertical mill. Other than that, use an
>>> ultra-fine point Sharpie and a "Clicker" center punch.
>>> Bill Naumuk
>>> HDS Fuselage
>>> Townville, Pa
>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>> From: <Jaybannist@cs.com>
>>> To: <zenith-list@matronics.com>
>>> Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 9:09 PM
>>> Subject: Zenith-List: Indexing a row of holes
>>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>> Listers,
>>>>
>>>> I am in the process of making a sub-panel for my circuit breakers. The
>>>> circuit breakers need to be located 20mm on center. Therefore, I need
>>>> to
>>>> drill holes in the sub-panel at 20mm O.C.; and I also need to drill
>>>> holes
>>>> in a .032 x 1/2" copper bus bar (fastened to the back side of the
>>>> circuit
>>>> breakers)at 20mm O.C. I will have two rows of circuit breakers, eight
>>>> in
>>>> each row. I don't feel that I can just mark them with a sharpie and get
>>>> the accuracy I want. Does anyone have any method for accurately
>>>> indexing
>>>> holes like this?
>>>>
>>>> Jay in Dallas
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Painfully learned polishing tips |
Pat-
I think the hassle is more in getting what you want to begin with-
maintanance should be no big deal.
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: "PatrickW" <pwhoyt@yahoo.com>
Sent: Monday, January 15, 2007 3:28 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Painfully learned polishing tips
>
> This is great information.
>
> We see a lot of polished planes at Oshkosh every year, and they do look
> nice. I often wonder how good they look during the rest of the year.
>
> Maybe you'll be able to tell us... :D
>
> - PatrickW
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=87843#87843
>
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Repairman Course/Rainbow Aviation |
My name is Gayla. My husband Sam has been a member of your list for
some time and I need your help. Sam paid for a 120 hour Repairman
Course through Rainbow Aviation. He has passed away due to an
accident. This course allows you to perform maintenance and conditional
inspections on light-sport aircraft, perform annuals and the 100 hour
inspections for any experimental light-sport aircraft. I have for sale
and Carol at Rainbow Aviation is aware of my posting to the various
lists, a seat to the January 22nd - February 9th Repairman Course or a
stand-by seat to any future 120 hour Repairman Course. The cost is
$3,595.00 and you do NOT need to be a member of EAA or any other
organization to get this discounted price. You can contact Carol
Carpenter (owner of Rainbow Aviation) at: info@rainbowaviation.com
(530-824-0644 or 530-567-5141) or you can email me
(GaylaLemley@PeoplePC.com) and I will get the information to Carol.
Carol is really trying to help me recoup some of the money and is trying
to get the seat sold as well. The sale will be handled through Carol at
Rainbow Aviation.
Hope there is someone out there who wants to attend this course or
purchase a stand-by ticket for any future 120 hour Repairman Course. So
if you are not interested or can't attend maybe you know somebody who
might be interested or maybe you could forward this information to other
flying related lists that you know of. Any help would be greatly
appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Gayla (Sam's wife)
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Painfully learned polishing tips |
Bill,
Hopefully you live where the humidity and pollution are low as THAT's
what gonna determine how much you gotta keep rubbin' on that pretty
bird, unless you put on a clear coat , which isn't a cure-all either.
Along the Gulf Coast where I live you see precious few polished
airplanes due to the continuing effort to keep them good looking, I
admire your grit!! pun intended
LOW&SLOW John
: Re: Zenith-List: Re: Painfully learned polishing tips
Pat-
I think the hassle is more in getting what you want to begin with-
maintanance should be no big deal.
Bill Naumuk
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive |
Try this:
http://tinyurl.com/yfndp7
Dave Ruddiman <pacificpainting@comcast.net> wrote:
I don't know what I did, but I just sent something.
I couldn't get the site to open.
----- Original Message -----
From: David Downey
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, January 15, 2007 11:34 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Metal to Metal Adehisive
Hey Dave, maybe these would do the job without bonding on metal disks?
http://www.aircraftextras.com/FuelDrainFairings.htm
Dave Ruddiman <pacificpainting@comcast.net> wrote:
Hi All,
I need some suggestions for sticking sticking aluminum to aluminum. I am making
some pieces to cover gaps in my skins that are a little larger than I like.
I would like to glue them on. They don't need to be removable.
Thanks,
Bored stiff? Loosen up...
Download and play hundreds of games for free on Yahoo! Games.
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List">http://www.matronhref="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
Dave Downey
Harleysville (SE) PA
Zodiac 601XL/Corvair?
---------------------------------
8:00? 8:25? 8:40? Find a flick in no time
with theYahoo! Search movie showtime shortcut.
Message 21
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| Subject: | Prince P-Tip Propeller |
Has anyone got any performance figures using the Prince P-Tip prop on a 601XL running
a Jabiru 3300? It is an interesting design and I wonder whether it performs
as advertised.
Tim
--------
DO NOT ARCHIVE
______________
CFII
Champ L16A flying
Zodiac XL - Working on wings
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=87913#87913
Message 22
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| Subject: | Wheel pants for sale |
I have a set of the original style wheel pants for an XL for sale. Never installed,
hardware included, still wrapped in the paper. $200. Contact me off list.
Tim
Do not archive
--------
DO NOT ARCHIVE
______________
CFII
Champ L16A flying
Zodiac XL - Working on wings
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=87914#87914
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Rear wing channel jigs? |
John, 400mm is correct. Remember to always use the drawings as the final
authority.
----- Original Message -----
From: John Marzulli
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, January 15, 2007 12:20 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Rear wing channel jigs?
I'm working on the rear wing channels and just finished the left and
right 600m pieces (7V6-2SP) .
According to the manual, you then set the jig to 380mm for the shorter
piece ( 7V6-1 ) , but the length of the channel is 380mm, so there is no
room for the 7V6-3 that has to be attached.
The plans indicate that the completed piece should be 400mm from
flange to flange, so I want to think that the manual meant to specify
400mm for the jig.
Can any previous builders verify that the jig should be set to 400mm
instead of 380?
Thanks,
--
John Marzulli
http://701Builder.blogspot.com/
"Flying a plane is no different than riding a bicycle... it's just a
lot harder to put baseball cards in the spokes.
Message 24
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| Subject: | How to lay out your panel (partial instructions) |
Here's the procedure I've used for laying out my panel.
1. Create actual sized templates of all your instruments.
2. Create a brown paper mock-up of your panel.
3. Move the templates around on the paper until you get a good idea of where you
like the instruments.
4. Tape your paper mock-up on your actual panel and practice reaching for instruments
and switches. You'll probably want to tweak things a bit
5. Make a .016" mockup of your panel. Use a center punch to transfer the corner
relief holes & screws of your templates to the aluminum mock-up.
6. Cut out the mock-up templates and fit your instruments to it. At this point,
you may want to do a comprehensive bench test of your equipment. Your harness
wires can also be cut to length now. (Instrument wires should be left to length
until you get them into the actual cockpit.)
7. When you're comfortable with how things look, securely tape the .016" mock-up
to your actual panel. The mockup should be left in place while cutting so that
you do not accidentally scar the surface of your actual panel.
8. Cut a few of the larger parts out of your panel and discover your EFIS doesn't
fit the cutout. However the map box fits perfectly in front of the pilot.
9. Discover you taped the .016" template backward.
10. Use colorful language until red in the face and hoarse in the throat.
11. Type up your method.
As soon as I discover how to fix this, I'll add to the instructions. I'm thinking
either moving the EFIS 3/4" to the left or creating a subpanel. That is once
I stop using colorful language....
Regards,
kk
--
Non-Parent - I don't see how you can raise children & stay sane.
Parent - You don't. You pick one and go with it.
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Inspection covers |
Hello List:
Thanks for all the great suggestions for inspection holes
and ding removal.
Regards, John Read
do not archive
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