Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:01 AM - Re: How to lay out your panel (partial instructions) (TxDave)
2. 01:07 AM - Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive (alex_001)
3. 05:44 AM - Re: Re: Painfully learned polishing tips (Bryan Martin)
4. 06:16 AM - Re: How to lay out your panel (partial instructions) (Ryan Vechinski)
5. 07:26 AM - Re: How to lay out your panel (partial instructions) (Gig Giacona)
6. 07:29 AM - Re: How to lay out your panel (partial instructions) (Jaybannist@cs.com)
7. 08:03 AM - Re: How to lay out your panel (partial instructions) ()
8. 09:04 AM - 601XL flap rib control plate (lwinger)
9. 09:43 AM - Polishing and Rivet Heads (Dr. Andrew Elliott)
10. 10:38 AM - Re: 601XL flap rib control plate (Paul Mulwitz)
11. 11:20 AM - Re: 601XL flap rib control plate (Larry Winger)
12. 12:01 PM - Re: Polishing and Rivet Heads (ronlee)
13. 12:54 PM - 801 with VGs and no slats!!! (Keystone Engineering LLC)
14. 01:52 PM - Re: 801 with VGs and no slats!!! (JG)
15. 02:06 PM - Plane for sale.doc (DICK WILBERS)
16. 02:06 PM - 601HDS for sale (DICK WILBERS)
17. 02:51 PM - Re: 801 with VGs and no slats!!! (Keystone Engineering LLC)
18. 04:33 PM - Re: Wheel pants for sale (Southern Reflections)
19. 05:47 PM - Re: Polishing and Rivet Heads (Tim Shankland)
20. 06:50 PM - Re: Polishing and Rivet Heads (Phil Maxson)
21. 06:50 PM - Re: 601XL flap rib control plate ()
22. 07:06 PM - Cheap beading tool (Dave and Pam Fisher)
23. 10:22 PM - Re: 601XL flap rib control plate (xl)
24. 11:53 PM - Re: Re: Re: Sensenich Composite Propeller (Gary Gower)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: How to lay out your panel (partial instructions) |
You were doing so well right up 'til...
Thanks for the great advice, Kevin.
do not archive
Dave Clay
Temple, TX
skinning my right wing
http://www.daves601xl.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=87965#87965
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Metal to Metal Adehisive |
Hello, we have build many racecar chassis (years ago when the used to be alloy
or alloy honeycomb) and now in Carbon and we have used Scotch Weld 9323 B/A with
big sucsess also no problem with aging as planes get far older then race cars.
This glue also is of good strenght if you have to fill up small gaps.
also very good in high temp (just incase you would like to fly very fast :D :D
)
we made several tests on torsion stiffnes and this product had the best results.
when cured off completly rivets have more or less no need anymore.
very important is clean surface and achted before (scotchbrite etc)
happy bonding
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=87967#87967
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Painfully learned polishing tips |
I'll second that. It takes quite a bit of work to get the 6061 to
shine up well but once you get it there, it holds up pretty well. At
least in my experience with my plane hangared in Michigan.
On Jan 15, 2007, at 6:28 PM, Bill Naumuk wrote:
>
> Pat-
> I think the hassle is more in getting what you want to begin
> with- maintanance should be no big deal.
> Bill Naumuk
> HDS Fuselage
> Townville, Pa
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "PatrickW" <pwhoyt@yahoo.com>
> To: <zenith-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Monday, January 15, 2007 3:28 PM
> Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Painfully learned polishing tips
>
>
>>
>> This is great information.
>>
>> We see a lot of polished planes at Oshkosh every year, and they do
>> look nice. I often wonder how good they look during the rest of
>> the year.
>>
>> Maybe you'll be able to tell us... :D
>>
>> - PatrickW
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
do not archive.
Message 4
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| Subject: | How to lay out your panel (partial instructions) |
What, you can't use a map box right in front of you?? Ok, I'm sorry. I'm
sure you'll figure something out.
Just to add to your list.
I found pictures of my possible instruments and gauges on the internet, the
n used a picture program to print them out actual size.
I made an actual size panel out of poster board and put it on my wall, then
taped my instruments on that.
I'm only finished with the tail, and starting on the wings, so I'll have pl
enty of time to stare at my "instrument panel" and see how I like it.
> Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2007 22:20:52 -0500> From: kkinney@fuse.net> To: zenith
-list@matronics.com> Subject: Zenith-List: How to lay out your panel (parti
y@fuse.net>> > > Here's the procedure I've used for laying out my panel.> >
1. Create actual sized templates of all your instruments.> 2. Create a bro
wn paper mock-up of your panel.> 3. Move the templates around on the paper
until you get a good idea of where you like the instruments.> 4. Tape your
paper mock-up on your actual panel and practice reaching for instruments an
d switches. You'll probably want to tweak things a bit> 5. Make a .016" moc
kup of your panel. Use a center punch to transfer the corner relief holes &
screws of your templates to the aluminum mock-up.> 6. Cut out the mock-up
templates and fit your instruments to it. At this point, you may want to do
a comprehensive bench test of your equipment. Your harness wires can also
be cut to length now. (Instrument wires should be left to length until you
get them into the actual cockpit.)> 7. When you're comfortable with how thi
ngs look, securely tape the .016" mock-up to your actual panel. The mockup
should be left in place while cutting so that you do not accidentally scar
the surface of your actual panel.> 8. Cut a few of the larger parts out of
your panel and discover your EFIS doesn't fit the cutout. However the map b
ox fits perfectly in front of the pilot.> 9. Discover you taped the .016" t
emplate backward.> 10. Use colorful language until red in the face and hoar
se in the throat.> 11. Type up your method.> > As soon as I discover how to
fix this, I'll add to the instructions. I'm thinking either moving the EFI
S 3/4" to the left or creating a subpanel. That is once I stop using colorf
ul language....> > Regards,> kk> > --> Non-Parent - I don't see how you can
raise children & stay sane.> Parent - You don't. You pick one and go with
=============> > >
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: How to lay out your panel (partial instructions) |
The only thing missing from the above is to sit in the aircraft with cushions of
some type in place and strap yourself in and make sure you can reach what needs
to be reached in flight.
--------
W.R. "Gig" Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=88015#88015
Message 6
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| Subject: | How to lay out your panel (partial instructions) |
I have designed the layout of my instrument panel on AutoCAD. I know I have been
through 20 or 30 iterations. Even after I decided on what instruments I would
have and basically where they would go, I still find it necessary to be constantly
tweeking it.
I have made a full size print-out and taped it to the panel to test the ergonomics.
I am about 75% complete with construction, but not completely done with the wiring
diagram, so I am confident that I will still need to make a few changes. Just
hope they are not major ones.
I will probably wind up spending more time on planning than on construction by
about 10 times. I am advising that you'd BETTER believe in evolution!(at least
when it comes to instrument panels) This process also brings to mind the old
saw among structural engineers that it is much better to use a pencil eraser than
a cutting torch.
Having delirious fun! Jay in Dallas
Do not archive
Ryan Vechinski <brothapig@HOTMAIL.COM> wrote:
>What, you can't use a map box right in front of you?? Ok, I'm sorry. I'm sure
you'll figure something out.
>
>Just to add to your list.
>
>I found pictures of my possible instruments and gauges on the internet, then used
a picture program to print them out actual size.
>I made an actual size panel out of poster board and put it on my wall, then taped
my instruments on that.
>I'm only finished with the tail, and starting on the wings, so I'll have plenty
of time to stare at my "instrument panel" and see how I like it.
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | How to lay out your panel (partial instructions) |
I used some scrap .016"aluminum to make templates that are the size of the largest
part of each instrument..... either the face plate or the chasis of the instrument,
whichever is bigger...... and allowed space for esthetics and air circulation
between instruments as I moved them around the panel. I drew the profiles
and center holes on with Sharpie. Then I'd remember something that I had
left out or didn't need to be there etc. I'm curently on the third version of
Sharpie drawings and I'm not about to cut the panel yet.
I have however made a doubler out of .050 that fits behind the panel (as the pilot
views it). The doubler includes the bottom flange but not the edge or top
flanges. The factory supplied panel just seemd too flimsy to me. If I find that
the doubler is overkill, I can cut as many lightening holes in it as I see fit
later when the instruments are installed and wired. It may be a long long time
before I rivet the panel in place.
Ed Moody II
Rayne, LA
601XL/Jabiru/flap linkage
Message 8
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| Subject: | 601XL flap rib control plate |
Before going further, note that I understand that plans always trump the photo
guide. What do you do when even the plans are unclear? I go the the list or
call ZAC.
To eliminate my confusion on the size and orientation of the hole (or slotted hole??)
on the inboard flap rib (6W1-1), not to mention the orientation confusion
between plans and the photo guide, I indeed called ZAC today.
Roger said that actually all that was needed was a 1/4" hole in the rib and control
plate, but exact placement was the issue for some builders. His recommendation
was to wait until final placement to drill the rib and install the plate.
That's now my plan.
For what it's worth.
--------
Larry Winger
Tustin, CA
601XL #6493 from scratch
Tail done / Working on flaps
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=88037#88037
Message 9
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| Subject: | Polishing and Rivet Heads |
Gang:
About to begin polishing the bottom of the fuselage with Nuvite F9, and
I have a question about treating the rivet heads. It seems that many of
my rivet heads have a very slight edge to them in the middle where the
dome shape meets the mandrel hole. Can't hardly see them, but can feel
them with a finger. I think these edges will tend wear out the
compounding pads prematurely.
I was considering touching all of them lightly with ultrafine
Scotchbrite on a 2" mandrel in the angle grinder to remove this edge. I
was wondering what other people who are polishing have done, if
anything, to prep their rivet heads for polishing.
Thanks,
Andy Elliott, Mesa, AZ
N601GE (reserved)
601XL/TD/QB, Corvair, building...
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: 601XL flap rib control plate |
Hi Larry,
Thanks for posting the information on flap control.
I am just getting ready to install the flap control motor and
associated stuff in the fuselage. My take on your report is that the
actual need for a slot as opposed to a simple hole in the flap rib
depends on how closely the flap control torque tube is located
compared to the piano hinge on the flap itself. The further the
location of the torque tube from the hinge in vertical space, the
more you need a slot versus a hole in the flap rib.
It seems that the slot doesn't do any harm compared to the simple
hole. It allows variation in the location of the torque tube in the
fuselage. This is good since the torque tube is located before the
wing is mounted on the fuselage. Also, the actual flap position on
the wing is delayed until final assembly according to the instructions.
I suppose all this works itself out as you reach final assembly.
Best regards,
Paul
XL fuselage
At 09:02 AM 1/16/2007, you wrote:
>To eliminate my confusion on the size and orientation of the hole
>(or slotted hole??) on the inboard flap rib (6W1-1), not to mention
>the orientation confusion between plans and the photo guide, I
>indeed called ZAC today.
>
>Roger said that actually all that was needed was a 1/4" hole in the
>rib and control plate, but exact placement was the issue for some
>builders. His recommendation was to wait until final placement to
>drill the rib and install the plate. That's now my plan.
-
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: 601XL flap rib control plate |
Paul,
You are probably correct. As one who is quite a few steps behind you, I
don't have the hands-on experience to comment. Just thought the list would
like to hear the latest from Mexico, MO.
Larry
> My take on your report is that the
> actual need for a slot as opposed to a simple hole in the flap rib
> depends on how closely the flap control torque tube is located
> compared to the piano hinge on the flap itself. The further the
> location of the torque tube from the hinge in vertical space, the
> more you need a slot versus a hole in the flap rib.
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Polishing and Rivet Heads |
I had the same situation, a little sharp ring at the top of the rivet heads. I
punched a hole in an old credit card (to protect the surrounding metal), placed
it over the rivet and ran fine sandpaper over the rivet head. This fixes the
problem quickly.
--------
Ron Lee
Tucson, Arizona
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=88081#88081
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| Subject: | 801 with VGs and no slats!!! |
I finally got a chance to try my 801 with VGs on and the slats off. I was unimpressed.
I was light with 40 gallons fuel, one 240 lb pilot and 30 lbs of baggage.
I made the VGs out of 1/2"x1/2"x 1/16" angle cut in 1" lengths with the front cut
at at 45 degree angle. I set them at 4" apart for the inboard 9' and at 2"
apart for the outboard 3'. I set them at a 45 degree angle to the leading edge
and they are 10% of the chord back from the leading edge.
The 801 will stall without slats. The clean stall was at 55 mph and the dirty
stall was at 43. With slats it does not stall. I use 43 clean and 35 dirty.
I showed a 4 mph increase in cruise speed. It went from 103 mph to 107 mph at
4000' density altitude. This is at 75% power from my O-360 which I define as
10.5 GPH with normal lean condition. I was expecting quite a bit more
For you guys that have done this in a 701 do you have any comments or thoughts?
Bill Wilcox
N801BW
Valdez, AK
279 hrs
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: 801 with VGs and no slats!!! |
Yeh, Bill, I would have expected a fair bit more as well...
Only real difference I can see is that 45* angle - we use 15*. Also, we
find it better at 8-9% chord for that very full rounded leading edge.
If you're interested in further experimenting, I'd like to send you a
set of Feathers VGs at no cost. Just send me your mailing address and
they're away.
JG
----- Original Message -----
From: Keystone Engineering LLC
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 7:53 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: 801 with VGs and no slats!!!
I finally got a chance to try my 801 with VGs on and the slats off. I
was unimpressed. I was light with 40 gallons fuel, one 240 lb pilot and
30 lbs of baggage.
I made the VGs out of 1/2"x1/2"x 1/16" angle cut in 1" lengths with
the front cut at at 45 degree angle. I set them at 4" apart for the
inboard 9' and at 2" apart for the outboard 3'. I set them at a 45
degree angle to the leading edge and they are 10% of the chord back from
the leading edge.
The 801 will stall without slats. The clean stall was at 55 mph and
the dirty stall was at 43. With slats it does not stall. I use 43
clean and 35 dirty.
I showed a 4 mph increase in cruise speed. It went from 103 mph to
107 mph at 4000' density altitude. This is at 75% power from my O-360
which I define as 10.5 GPH with normal lean condition. I was expecting
quite a bit more
For you guys that have done this in a 701 do you have any comments or
thoughts?
Bill Wilcox
N801BW
Valdez, AK
279 hrs
Message 15
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| Subject: | Plane for sale.doc |
Dear List,
4 back surgeries, both knees replaced and Father Time have made it more
difficult for me to enter and exit my 601 HDS, at least gracefully.
Therefore, I am going to have to put it up for sale and get an airplane that
my wife and I can enter and exit easier. The airplane has always been
hangared in Winter Haven, FL.
The airplane is a kit built 601HDS with the front hinged canopy and wheel
fairings. It has 37 hours on the engine and air frame.
It has a Stratus Subaru EA-81 with the Ram performance conversion of the
heads, valves, valve guides and springs. It purrs like a kitten.
The prop is a 3 blade carbon fiber ground adjustable
The radiator has Larry Mac louvers and fiber glass intake scoop. Engine
coolant temp is a non-issue.
The panel is a fairly simple affair with a tach, airspeed indicator,
altimeter, VSI,
I have the conventional "Y" stick.
It has a Microair 760 communication radio with intercom, and it has a PTT on
each "Y" member.
The engine instruments include water temp, oil pressure and oil temp,
voltmeter, boost pump pressure and a hobbs meter.
It has not been painted yet, but the local guy who does the Europa airplanes
is ready and willing.
Anyone who is interested may contact me off list at rwilbers@tampabay.rr.com
or call me in Florida at 863-666-3265. We can discus prices, availability,
etc. I will try to include a couple of pictures.
Dick Wilbers
Message 16
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The Electronic Wizard whupped me again. Enclosed are the pictures.
100_0654.JPG
100_0655.JPG
100_1582.JPG
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: 801 with VGs and no slats!!! |
JG
Thank you for your kind offer!
William Wilcox
PO Box 3233
Valdez, Ak 99686
USA
I will try them at 10 degrees at 8% of the chord and see if that speeds the plane
up. Maybe 45 degrees is too much. I used 45 degrees on the ones I put on
the bottom of the elevator and they helped a lot. Maybe I should take some angle
off them also.
Bill
Subject: Re: 801 with VGs and no slats!!!
From: JG (vgstol@bigpond.net.au)
Date: Tue Jan 16 - 1:52 PM
Yeh, Bill, I would have expected a fair bit more as well...
Only real difference I can see is that 45* angle - we use 15*. Also, we
find it better at 8-9% chord for that very full rounded leading edge.
If you're interested in further experimenting, I'd like to send you a
set of Feathers VGs at no cost. Just send me your mailing address and
they're away.
JG
----- Original Message -----
From: Keystone Engineering LLC
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 7:53 AM
Subject: 801 with VGs and no slats!!!
I finally got a chance to try my 801 with VGs on and the slats off. I
was unimpressed. I was light with 40 gallons fuel, one 240 lb pilot and
30 lbs of baggage.
I made the VGs out of 1/2"x1/2"x 1/16" angle cut in 1" lengths with
the front cut at 45 degree angle. I set them at 4" apart for the
inboard 9' and at 2" apart for the outboard 3'. I set them at a 45
degree angle to the leading edge and they are 10% of the chord back from
the leading edge.
The 801 will stall without slats. The clean stall was at 55 mph and
the dirty stall was at 43. With slats it does not stall. I use 43
clean and 35 dirty.
I showed a 4 mph increase in cruise speed. It went from 103 mph to
107 mph at 4000' density altitude. This is at 75% power from my O-360
which I define as 10.5 GPH with normal lean condition. I was expecting
quite a bit more
For you guys that have done this in a 701 do you have any comments or
thoughts?
Bill Wilcox
N801BW
Valdez, AK
279 hrs
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Wheel pants for sale |
call me 1-772-3430033 joe
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Juhl" <juhl@avci.net>
Sent: Monday, January 15, 2007 8:04 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Wheel pants for sale
>
> I have a set of the original style wheel pants for an XL for sale. Never
> installed, hardware included, still wrapped in the paper. $200. Contact
> me off list.
>
> Tim
>
> Do not archive
>
> --------
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
> ______________
> CFII
> Champ L16A flying
> Zodiac XL - Working on wings
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=87914#87914
>
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Polishing and Rivet Heads |
Andy,
I did the whole plane, rivets and all without any treatment of the rivet
heads. The is more of a problem if you have a rivet that isn't seated
well then a few strands of the wool will get under it. 601HD polished
and still looking good about a year, although I should wash it.
Tim Shankland
Dr. Andrew Elliott wrote:
> Gang:
>
> About to begin polishing the bottom of the fuselage with Nuvite F9,
> and I have a question about treating the rivet heads. It seems that
> many of my rivet heads have a very slight edge to them in the middle
> where the dome shape meets the mandrel hole. Can't hardly see them,
> but can feel them with a finger. I think these edges will tend wear
> out the compounding pads prematurely.
>
> I was considering touching all of them lightly with ultrafine
> Scotchbrite on a 2" mandrel in the angle grinder to remove this edge.
> I was wondering what other people who are polishing have done, if
> anything, to prep their rivet heads for polishing.
>
> Thanks,
> Andy Elliott, Mesa, AZ
> N601GE (reserved)
> 601XL/TD/QB, Corvair, building...
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Polishing and Rivet Heads |
Two comments about Nuvite polishing:
1. I don't recommend using the courser grades of Nuvite. You would be bett
er off starting with a wet sand of 1000 grit sand paper and then wet sandin
g with 1500 grit sand paper. After that go to Nuvite C and S.
2. Don't worry a thing about your rivet heads. The rivets and the area rig
ht beside them will polish to a shine much quicker than the unsupported are
as of the skin between the rivets. I didn't even put Nuvite on the rivets
and they are the shiniest part of the plane.
Pictures can be found at http://flycorvair.com/snf2006.html (middle of pag
e) and video here: http://zenvair.com/ Also, middle of the page.Phil Maxso
n601XL/CorvairNorthwest New Jersey
From: a.s.elliott@cox.net
Subject: Zenith-List: Polishing and Rivet Heads
Gang:
About to begin polishing the bottom of the fuselage with Nuvite F9 <<SNIP>>
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Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: 601XL flap rib control plate |
The most important aspect would be to get both flaps set at the same
angle and that there is no binding as the flaps are deployed. If you
have any variation from side to side then the actual hole in the drive
plate and rib will be slightly different.
The distance between the flap drive pin and the flap hinge pin may vary
during deployment and thus the need for a slotted hole to avoid bending
the rib. Wait until the wings are mounted and do a few cyclings of the
drive pins for the actual measurements with the flaps inserted close to
the final position you will be able to visualize where the hole (slot)
needs to go.
Gary
Message 22
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| Subject: | Cheap beading tool |
At 12:58 AM 1/16/2007, you wrote:
>How do you make a beaded line in a tool designed for flares and double flares?
Hi David,
Just clamp the tube with about 1/8 inch protruding. Place the double flare
die in the end of the tube, and then squeeze it until you've formed the
size bead you want. Experiment a bit with the amount of tube protruding
and the amount of squeeze and you'll get perfect rounded raised beads like
those from a beading tool - just what you need to help seal and retain the
fuel hose on the tube.
I also used the tool to make an enlarged end on my fuel vent tubes to
capture a disc of aluminum window screen to keep bugs out of the vents.
Have Fun!
Dave, 701 with A80-8 Continental ( Nebraska farmer, good with duct tape! )
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: 601XL flap rib control plate |
Install the flaps for resale, then don't wear them out.
I've landed at Vaughan more than once, no flaps,
(http://www.airnav.com/airport/WN13)
without consequences and turned around about halfway down the field.
Last time, my passenger, a first time 601XL passenger said, 'if you
didn't use flaps now, when would you.' I try to land on the numbers
at BFI, it helps.
Keep in mind, the Zodiac is a light plane, mine is 715 pounds empty.
Flaps in crosswinds weathervane the plane into the gusts.
But, then what the f*%& do I know. Yeah, I had a bad day.........
I should go fly.
Joe E
N633Z @ BFI
CH601XL, 419 hours, polished (sort of), not a show plane
Jabiru 3300, Sensenich wood prop 64x49
do not archive
P.S. The above advice does not apply if your airstrip is < 1800 ft.
I don't have experience with that scenario.
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Re: Sensenich Composite Propeller |
Hello Paul,
Yes, I am aware, but that was not the meaning of my post... What I have noted
in many years of flying, that most pilots, want to get more speed of the airplane
they fly. even if its a 55 mph ultralight or a match 2 jet...
Speed is only important in long XCountries or races, I think.
What I want to say is that once you have an airplane, enjoy it as is, probably
a little "cleaning" to improve range, On the other side, to get a few mph
of any given airframe, you need lots more power, gasoline and $ not worth
it in my case.
Well I think not matters, Lets stop this matter.
I enjoy flyiing at what ever speed the airplane flies.
Saludos
Gary Gower
Please Do not archive.
Paul Mulwitz <p.mulwitz@worldnet.att.net> wrote: Hi Gary,
Perhaps you are not aware, but we have a new set of rules for pilots and planes
from the FAA in the United States. For those of us too old and decrepit to
want to fight for a "Special Issuance" medical certificate, there is the Sport
Pilot restriction which allows us to fly any plane that meets the Light Sport
Aircraft limits without a medical certificate.
The short version of all of this is we can fly a 701 or 601 (most models, possibly
not the HDS) without fighting for the medical certificate. Higher performance
planes like a Verieze don't qualify under this new rule.
The essence of the Sport Pilot restriction is we must limit our flying to VFR
day operations. Personally, I like those limits anyway. I might go get an instrument
rating if I could do it without the medical certificate, but that will
have to wait a few years for the FAA to decide they don't like third class
medical certificates any more. That may happen and it may not.
So, there is actually some merit for guys like me to try to squeeze performance
out of my Zodiac XL that I just can't use if it comes from a heavier or naturally
faster plane.
Regards,
Paul
XL fuselage
do not archive
At 12:10 PM 1/11/2007, you wrote:
Respectfully, What for? Want to cruise faster, same engine? buy a Varieze
or with a 0200 a Long Eze...
Lets enjoy the flight, once the wheels are off the ground :-)
Saludos
Gary Gower
Hope to finish my 601XL soon.
Now cruising at 85 - 90 in the 701 912S at 11,500 ft ASL @ 5100 rpm
Do not archive.
Brandon Tucker <btucke73@yahoo.com> wrote:
Craig,
All I am saying is that his Jab performs the same
as my Corvair, and that we both have not done much to
clean up our planes. I think the Jab is a better
engine, for those who can afford it. I am just
pointing out that they do not, in fact, run nitrous or
have afterburner, and IMHO are not capable of pushing
an HDS
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