Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:09 AM - Re: Re: Wing Spar Assembly Drawing 6W3, number of hat stiffeners ? (Hunt Malcolm)
2. 05:03 AM - Re: 701: Elevator Upper Limit Stop? (Geoff Heap)
3. 05:28 AM - Re: 701 wing mis-information (Geoff Heap)
4. 05:42 AM - Re: Re: 701: Elevator Upper Limit Stop? (Gordon)
5. 06:06 AM - zenith pitot tube V's Dynon tube (chris Sinfield)
6. 06:44 AM - Re: zenith pitot tube V's Dynon tube (Paul Mulwitz)
7. 07:27 AM - 701 wing addendumb..... (Zed Smith)
8. 08:49 AM - Re: Handheld GPS? (Peter Barthold)
9. 08:54 AM - Re: 701 wing addendumb..... (Roger Venables)
10. 12:45 PM - Re: 701 wing mis-information (Steve & Kim Kurash)
11. 01:52 PM - Re: 701 wing mis-information (David Downey)
12. 02:38 PM - Where could that part be... (Jon Burns)
13. 02:46 PM - Enuff 701 wings for this week!! (Zed Smith)
14. 03:18 PM - Re: Where could that part be... (Jaybannist@cs.com)
15. 04:32 PM - Re: 701 wing mis-information (Jon Croke)
16. 04:37 PM - Re: zenith pitot tube V's Dynon tube (Ron Lendon)
17. 04:37 PM - Re: Enuff 701 wings for this week!! (Edward Moody II)
18. 04:59 PM - Re: 701 wing mis-information (Jon Croke)
19. 05:14 PM - 701 elevator upper limit stop ()
20. 06:23 PM - Re: 701 wing mis-information (Graeme)
21. 06:34 PM - Enuff 701 wings for this week!! (Randy L. Thwing)
22. 07:44 PM - Re: zenith pitot tube V's Dynon tube (Brandon Tucker)
23. 08:05 PM - Cutting out trim tab? (Dr. Andrew Elliott)
24. 08:25 PM - Re: Cutting out trim tab? (ZodieRocket)
25. 08:29 PM - Re: 701 elevator upper limit stop (NYTerminat@aol.com)
26. 08:44 PM - Re: Cutting out trim tab? (Paul Mulwitz)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Wing Spar Assembly Drawing 6W3, number of hat |
stiffeners ?
Whilst talking of spars is it permissible to make the rear cap angles in
two pieces to allow them to be bent on an 8' brake? It seems their main
function is to pick up the skin riveting but no doubt will give some
additional strength to the spar. Has any one done this or spoken to
Zenith?
Regards
Malcolm Hunt
CH601XL Plans Builder in England
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Lendon
Sent: 24 January 2007 07:31
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Wing Spar Assembly Drawing 6W3, number of hat
stiffeners ?
I called Zenith about this as I was making my spars. I have the 15 gal
tanks and 4 hat sections per the 6K0 plans. I just makes sense to have
the added strength and Zenith agreed.
--------
Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
Corvair Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=90022#90022
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| Subject: | Re: 701: Elevator Upper Limit Stop? |
Dude. My H. stab and elevator are fitted too and I found no ref to a stop either.
The travel at the moment is restricted only by the physical travel limit of
the elevator itself. I'll worry about it later. also I'd be interested in what
anyone else did......Geoff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=90045#90045
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| Subject: | Re: 701 wing mis-information |
Further to what Bob said. Maybe the AE line does not need to be levelled. My pref
is to do so. For anyone who also wants to do this I suggest using a small diameter
clear plastic tube attached to the fuse with the ends fixed at the two
AE points. Let it hang. When you move the fuse its still there. Fill with your
favourite colored water and you have a permanent level. I built my wing table
like that too. Thanks for the other info. Wing attach is next for me but I need
warmer weather. My hangar?? is 20 x 12.....Geoff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=90049#90049
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| Subject: | Re: 701: Elevator Upper Limit Stop? |
7-H-5-1 shows were to file the lower elevator horn to limit the down
elevator travel. But, I also am confused about the method of limiting the
amount of up travel for the elevator -- ?
Gordon
----- Original Message -----
From: "Geoff Heap" <stol10@comcast.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2007 8:02 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: 701: Elevator Upper Limit Stop?
>
> Dude. My H. stab and elevator are fitted too and I found no ref to a stop
> either. The travel at the moment is restricted only by the physical travel
> limit of the elevator itself. I'll worry about it later. also I'd be
> interested in what anyone else did......Geoff
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=90045#90045
>
>
>
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| Subject: | zenith pitot tube V's Dynon tube |
Hi all
come on, yes it was the middle of the night when I mixed up L angles and hat stiffeners..
I am about to drill the holes for instalation of the normal zenith tubes and hoses
that came with the kit. I am still looking (dreaming) into putting the Dynon
EFIS onto the panel if I can afford it. If I go that way I will need a new
tube for the Angle of A stuff will I not?
so should I wait till I have made up my mind or will the new size tube fit over
the old Zenith tube holes??? I would hate to have to patch my new bottom wing
skin before first flight.
Chris
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=90057#90057
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| Subject: | Re: zenith pitot tube V's Dynon tube |
Hi Chris
I have an LRI rather than the Dynon pitot tube, but I would guess the
hose requirements are similar. I have two hoses that run from the
LRI into the fuselage.
I mounted both the LRI probe and pitot tube on inspection plates so
they don't get broken while moving the wing around. If you do this,
you can probably run new tubes later.
Best regards,
Paul
XL fuselage
At 06:05 AM 1/24/2007, you wrote:
><chris_sinfield@yahoo.com.au>
>
>Hi all
>come on, yes it was the middle of the night when I mixed up L angles
>and hat stiffeners..
>
>I am about to drill the holes for instalation of the normal zenith
>tubes and hoses that came with the kit. I am still looking
>(dreaming) into putting the Dynon EFIS onto the panel if I can
>afford it. If I go that way I will need a new tube for the Angle of
>A stuff will I not?
>
>so should I wait till I have made up my mind or will the new size
>tube fit over the old Zenith tube holes??? I would hate to have to
>patch my new bottom wing skin before first flight.
>
>Chris
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | 701 wing addendumb..... |
Okay, I omitted a couple of steps. Sorry 'bout that. Hopefully here are some
helpful additions:
The reference mark I mentioned previously refers to making a mark on top of the
fuselage, on the centerline, and as far aft as possible. You can use this as
the point from which to square the wingtips with the airframe.
The dihedral could be set with one flat tire (aircraft tilted) but it just doesn't
look right. Place a level across the top of the fuselage from one front spar
attach point to the other. If this doesn't establish level then nothing will.
As for the fore-aft level argument, I didn't worry about it.....the front & rear
attach points on the fuselage are fixed and you will be centering the front
and rear spars on these regardless of how they sit in relation to the floor.
Remember, some of this is "art" as opposed to "science".
First of all, my hangar has a bi-fold door. There are several horizontal structrual
members on the door which make a nice visual reference. If the completed/attached
wings are viewed from the opposite end of the hangar it is easy to
see if things are "equal".
I used padded 2x4 lumber running fore & aft under the wings, with one placed about
a foot outboard from the inboard end, and another about a foot outboard of
the strut attach brackets, to suspend the wings from the hangar trusses. Slats
and ailerons were removed. This was only for attaching the wings to the fuselage;
you may opt to support from below. The strut attachment requires firm,
non-moving, support.
I had already attached the tail feathers prior to attaching the wings. Looking
at the airplane from about thirty feet in front or rear gives you a sense of
what is right/correct. Probably no different from the method used by Orville
& Wilbur. (Did they have measuring tapes in those days?)
Key to all this is that the front wing spar attachment tab is centered VERTICALLY
at the FRONT FUSELAGE SLOT.
If you built the wings relatively straight/flat/etc, then also center the rear
spar attach points vertically on the rear fuselage attach points. This will insure
that both your wings will be alike WHERE THEY MEET THE FUSELAGE.
The really difficult task is the strut attachment. I installed left and right
FRONT struts first.
This establishes the dihedral (the 75mm/tight string).
Others may offer varying methods, but I suggest you round up something substantial
to support the outboard end of both wings. The golf cart just happened to
be handy. Mine has a sloping roof.... I discovered that by pointing it toward
the side of the fuselage I could roll it in/out at the wingtip and thereby
raise/lower the wing. A tall (and STURDY) sawhorse will accomplish the same thing.
A bundle of wood shingles from your local lumber yard will make nice shims.
Both tips need to be supported properly during this exercise.
Attempting to suspend the wings on ropes while making the struts fit is an exercise
in futility......ropes tend to sag/stretch and you will waste a lot of time
re-adjusting them, and you may not get things as straight as necessary. Chain
hoists might be suitable if you have enough overhead room to accomodate them...at
least there is no stretch with the chain.
The ends of the struts, where they attach to the fuselage & where they attach to
the wing, should be drilled/fitted first. Drill #30, then enlarge, insert proper
bolts. This allows you to hold the "middle" ends together (side-by-side)
to see how much needs to be cut from the bottom half to make things fit. (Observe
that there is a male and a female....the female is the upper/outboard half
of each strut set). You may or may not need to cut, depends on kit variations;
I cut about 20mm from the rear, none from the front, yours may differ.
Once you have both FRONT struts cut to length, bottom half inserted into into top
half, fuselage & wing strut bolts inserted, you are ready to drill the strut
"splice". This is the critical part as it sets the dihedral. Back off and
eyeball your work. Re-measure the 75mm/string. Take a break, have a sandwich.
There are three bolts which join the strut halves.
When you are sure you have it right you can drill ONE hole. I suggest you drill
a #30 and insert a Cleco, remove the top and bottom strut bolts (fuselage &
wing) and take the entire strut to your drill press. (This is the reason for
good supports under the wingtips)
Drill this first hole in BOTH front struts while you have everything sitting right/straight/correct;
removing the strut tends to wiggle the entire airplane.
Leaving the Cleco in place drill the 2nd hole and insert a bolt, drill the 3rd
splice hole and insert another bolt, remove the Cleco and drill out the 1st hole
to bolt size and install the bolt. Masking tape and marks with a Sharpie will
help to keep the builder aligned.
Hint: Can't see any reason that you couldn't put a rivet in the first hole....nothing
slips or moves and you'll just drill it out later; and you won't get one
strut half mixed up with another strut half before the real holes are drilled.
Again, be sure to mark your struts with tags/tape/etc for peace of mind.
A long tapered punch helps when re-installing the struts.
Once the front struts are in place you will find that the rear struts are easy.....same
process, but you'll need to measure finished length of the rear struts.
Pushing up or down on the trailing edge of the wing is the equalizer.
Getting one rear strut longer/shorter than the other is okay if you don't mind
flying in a circle. (See Trim Tabs 101)
As previously stated, there may be several other methods, but this works. What
is of prime importance is that you back off and view your work before you drill,
keeping in mind that you really need to drill all original holes as #30 then
enlarge these later simply because a new, sharp small bit will put a hole
where you intended rather than drift as the larger bits tend to do in a handheld
drill motor.
The attachment of the wings requires some help. I'm sure some have done it alone,
but I suggest you do not attempt it except as a last resort. Dropping a
wing on the floor will ruin your day.
Jury struts are not addressed here.....you'll see why later.
Next week we'll discuss proper methods of refurbishing ScotchBrite pads.
Regards to all, and my apologies to those who have already been there-done that.
This is intended as some help for those who have been putting this chore off
in hopes the wings might magically install themselves.
Zed/do NOT archive
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Handheld GPS? |
Hello Lind,
Aviation handhelds are the better choice when it comes to ruggedness and reliability.
I would nevertheless recommend to check out pocketfms for PDA/GPS combos.
It is a powerful moving map navigation solution with a VERY dedicated commmunty.
A number of volunteers maintain the data of every country. Norways airspace
structure is fully covered and maintained AFAIK.
The software and moving map data is for free (!) Donors of more than 50 Euros/60
$ get conveniant zip files and additional weather data .
Check out www.pocketfms.com
to alex: Schickes Cockpit, D-M... oder D-E...?
Cheers
Peter
601HDS TD VW conversion
Tail complete, wings in progress
www.petersprojekt42.de
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=90113#90113
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| Subject: | 701 wing addendumb..... |
Zed
Thanks, this is very helpful
Roger Venables
Kenmore, WA CH701
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Zed Smith
Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2007 7:26 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: 701 wing addendumb.....
Okay, I omitted a couple of steps. Sorry 'bout that. Hopefully here are
some helpful additions:
The reference mark I mentioned previously refers to making a mark on top of
the fuselage, on the centerline, and as far aft as possible. You can use
this as the point from which to square the wingtips with the airframe.
The dihedral could be set with one flat tire (aircraft tilted) but it just
doesn't look right. Place a level across the top of the fuselage from one
front spar attach point to the other. If this doesn't establish level then
nothing will.
As for the fore-aft level argument, I didn't worry about it.....the front &
rear attach points on the fuselage are fixed and you will be centering the
front and rear spars on these regardless of how they sit in relation to the
floor. Remember, some of this is "art" as opposed to "science".
First of all, my hangar has a bi-fold door. There are several horizontal
structrual members on the door which make a nice visual reference. If the
completed/attached wings are viewed from the opposite end of the hangar it
is easy to see if things are "equal".
I used padded 2x4 lumber running fore & aft under the wings, with one placed
about a foot outboard from the inboard end, and another about a foot
outboard of the strut attach brackets, to suspend the wings from the hangar
trusses. Slats and ailerons were removed. This was only for attaching the
wings to the fuselage; you may opt to support from below. The strut
attachment requires firm, non-moving, support.
I had already attached the tail feathers prior to attaching the wings.
Looking at the airplane from about thirty feet in front or rear gives you a
sense of what is right/correct. Probably no different from the method used
by Orville & Wilbur. (Did they have measuring tapes in those days?)
Key to all this is that the front wing spar attachment tab is centered
VERTICALLY at the FRONT FUSELAGE SLOT.
If you built the wings relatively straight/flat/etc, then also center the
rear spar attach points vertically on the rear fuselage attach points. This
will insure that both your wings will be alike WHERE THEY MEET THE FUSELAGE.
The really difficult task is the strut attachment. I installed left and
right FRONT struts first.
This establishes the dihedral (the 75mm/tight string).
Others may offer varying methods, but I suggest you round up something
substantial to support the outboard end of both wings. The golf cart just
happened to be handy. Mine has a sloping roof.... I discovered that by
pointing it toward the side of the fuselage I could roll it in/out at the
wingtip and thereby raise/lower the wing. A tall (and STURDY) sawhorse will
accomplish the same thing. A bundle of wood shingles from your local lumber
yard will make nice shims. Both tips need to be supported properly during
this exercise.
Attempting to suspend the wings on ropes while making the struts fit is an
exercise in futility......ropes tend to sag/stretch and you will waste a lot
of time re-adjusting them, and you may not get things as straight as
necessary. Chain hoists might be suitable if you have enough overhead room
to accomodate them...at least there is no stretch with the chain.
The ends of the struts, where they attach to the fuselage & where they
attach to the wing, should be drilled/fitted first. Drill #30, then
enlarge, insert proper bolts. This allows you to hold the "middle" ends
together (side-by-side) to see how much needs to be cut from the bottom half
to make things fit. (Observe that there is a male and a female....the female
is the upper/outboard half of each strut set). You may or may not need to
cut, depends on kit variations; I cut about 20mm from the rear, none from
the front, yours may differ.
Once you have both FRONT struts cut to length, bottom half inserted into
into top half, fuselage & wing strut bolts inserted, you are ready to drill
the strut "splice". This is the critical part as it sets the dihedral.
Back off and eyeball your work. Re-measure the 75mm/string. Take a break,
have a sandwich.
There are three bolts which join the strut halves.
When you are sure you have it right you can drill ONE hole. I suggest you
drill a #30 and insert a Cleco, remove the top and bottom strut bolts
(fuselage & wing) and take the entire strut to your drill press. (This is
the reason for good supports under the wingtips)
Drill this first hole in BOTH front struts while you have everything sitting
right/straight/correct; removing the strut tends to wiggle the entire
airplane.
Leaving the Cleco in place drill the 2nd hole and insert a bolt, drill the
3rd splice hole and insert another bolt, remove the Cleco and drill out the
1st hole to bolt size and install the bolt. Masking tape and marks with a
Sharpie will help to keep the builder aligned.
Hint: Can't see any reason that you couldn't put a rivet in the first
hole....nothing slips or moves and you'll just drill it out later; and you
won't get one strut half mixed up with another strut half before the real
holes are drilled. Again, be sure to mark your struts with tags/tape/etc
for peace of mind. A long tapered punch helps when re-installing the
struts.
Once the front struts are in place you will find that the rear struts are
easy.....same process, but you'll need to measure finished length of the
rear struts. Pushing up or down on the trailing edge of the wing is the
equalizer.
Getting one rear strut longer/shorter than the other is okay if you don't
mind flying in a circle. (See Trim Tabs 101)
As previously stated, there may be several other methods, but this works.
What is of prime importance is that you back off and view your work before
you drill, keeping in mind that you really need to drill all original holes
as #30 then enlarge these later simply because a new, sharp small bit will
put a hole where you intended rather than drift as the larger bits tend to
do in a handheld drill motor.
The attachment of the wings requires some help. I'm sure some have done it
alone, but I suggest you do not attempt it except as a last resort.
Dropping a wing on the floor will ruin your day.
Jury struts are not addressed here.....you'll see why later.
Next week we'll discuss proper methods of refurbishing ScotchBrite pads.
Regards to all, and my apologies to those who have already been there-done
that. This is intended as some help for those who have been putting this
chore off in hopes the wings might magically install themselves.
Zed/do NOT archive
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: 701 wing mis-information |
Actually Jon it does matter. Especially the leveling of the aircraft
along the A-E reference line ( I stand corrected Bob). This is because
of the wing dihedral. If the wing had no dihedral there would be no need
to level along A-E. Try this explanation, on your plane with wings and
struts installed, string a line from wingtip to wingtip at the rivet
line. Get on a ladder and look down from above at the string and rivet
line relationship. Notice, that as you move your eye a little forward,
then rearward, that you can make the string line appear as if it is not
in line with the rivet line. It will look like the wings are either
swept forward or swept aft. The dihedral causes this effect.
Alternatively, you could drop the tail of the plane by blocking up the
nose wheel and view your string line/rivet line. I'll bet it looks like
your wings are swept back! N.B. If it looks like the rivet line IS in
line with the rivet line, then your eye is not exactly 90 degrees over
the string line, or your wings are in fact NOT perfectly aligned. Any
way, back to the point, if you were setting the wing incidence in this
condition (tail low) you would move the wing tips forward until the
string line and rivets were aligned and then drill the aft mounting
holes IN THE WRONG LOCATION. So............ in order to set the wing
incidence in the fore and aft dimension (i.e. neither swept forward on
backward) you must level the aircraft along A-E and view the
string/rivet line relationship from EXACTLY above the string (90
degrees).
Steve
----- Original Message -----
Time: 10:49:37 AM PST US
From: "Jon Croke" <Jon@joncroke.com>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: 701 wing mis-information
Hi all,
I am seeking a little clarification to the 701 wing rigging issue... I
dont understand the need for all of this fuselage leveling... I agree
with Zed's procedure (and have used it quite successfully) of wing
rigging.... notice that all adjusting is done in reference to the
fuselage itself or the opposite wing.. nothing I noticed entails rigging
in relationship to 'level' with the earth. You could complete Zed's
procedure with the fuse sitting on a sloped parking ramp.... kinda
similar to the issue of making 'sure' your table is level before
building your wings!! (Does it make a difference?)
So - I am simply looking for understanding on how leveling helps the
wing rigging process... inquiring minds want to know!
Thanks!
Jon
----- Original Message -----
From: NYTerminat@aol.com
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 23, 2007 11:17 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: 701 wing mis-information
Steve
Not on the upper longerons, there is an A-E reference line that you
must create to level the fuselage, see
7-F-2. The upper longerons have a slight curve to them when installed
on the side skins. You also might want to think about blocking the
fuselage level in all axis, the tires and spring/ bungee gear will move
as you put weight on them. Why chase the level with a moving fuselage?
Bob Spudis
N701ZX/912S/100 hrs
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: 701 wing mis-information |
...the elimination of parallax error is one of the things involved. In some ways,
this is specifically the reason why it is so critical to have the plane leveled
according to the designers requirements when doing a weight and ballance.
Steve & Kim Kurash <stevekimk@gmail.com> wrote: Actually Jon it does matter.
Especially the leveling of the aircraft along the A-E reference line (
I stand corrected Bob). This is because of the wing dihedral. If the wing had
no dihedral there would be no need to level along A-E. Try this explanation,
on your plane with wings and struts installed, string a line from wingtip to
wingtip at the rivet line. Get on a ladder and look down from above at the string
and rivet line relationship. Notice, that as you move your eye a little forward,
then rearward, that you can make the string line appear as if it is not
in line with the rivet line. It will look like the wings are either swept forward
or swept aft. The dihedral causes this effect. Alternatively, you could
drop the tail of the plane by blocking up the nose wheel and view your string
line/rivet line. I'll bet it looks like your wings are swept back! N.B. If it
looks like the rivet line IS in line with the rivet
line, then your eye is not exactly 90 degrees over the string line, or your wings
are in fact NOT perfectly aligned. Any way, back to the point, if you were
setting the wing incidence in this condition (tail low) you would move the wing
tips forward until the string line and rivets were aligned and then drill
the aft mounting holes IN THE WRONG LOCATION. So............ in order to set the
wing incidence in the fore and aft dimension (i.e. neither swept forward on
backward) you must level the aircraft along A-E and view the string/rivet line
relationship from EXACTLY above the string (90 degrees).
Steve
----- Original Message -----
Time: 10:49:37 AM PST US
From: "Jon Croke" <Jon@joncroke.com>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: 701 wing mis-information
Hi all,
I am seeking a little clarification to the 701 wing rigging issue... I
dont understand the need for all of this fuselage leveling... I agree
with Zed's procedure (and have used it quite successfully) of wing
rigging.... notice that all adjusting is done in reference to the
fuselage itself or the opposite wing.. nothing I noticed entails rigging
in relationship to 'level' with the earth. You could complete Zed's
procedure with the fuse sitting on a sloped parking ramp.... kinda
similar to the issue of making 'sure' your table is level before
building your wings!! (Does it make a difference?)
So - I am simply looking for understanding on how leveling helps the
wing rigging process... inquiring minds want to know!
Thanks!
Jon
----- Original Message -----
From: NYTerminat@aol.com
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 23, 2007 11:17 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: 701 wing mis-information
Steve
Not on the upper longerons, there is an A-E reference line that you
must create to level the fuselage, see
7-F-2. The upper longerons have a slight curve to them when installed
on the side skins. You also might want to think about blocking the
fuselage level in all axis, the tires and spring/ bungee gear will move
as you put weight on them. Why chase the level with a moving fuselage?
Bob Spudis
N701ZX/912S/100 hrs
Dave Downey
Harleysville (SE) PA
Zodiac 601XL/Corvair?
---------------------------------
Don't pick lemons.
See all the new 2007 cars at Yahoo! Autos.
Message 12
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| Subject: | Where could that part be... |
My second faux pas.
I was near the end of the elevator build, and I couldn't find the horn
doubler 6T3-6.
I went back through my entire inventory to track it down, to no avail. I
did have the "L" bracket _leftover_ from that part of the kit. After
examing the plans in greater detail, I realized what I did.
I don't know it it was just too late, or I was relying on the photo assembly
reference too much, but it seems that I cut up 6T3-6, as the "L" bracket for
6T3-2.
A call went to Zenith the next AM to have a new $4.00 piece ol AL shipped
Blue...
Fun!
Jon Burns
_________________________________________________________________
Valentines Day -- Shop for gifts that spell L-O-V-E at MSN Shopping
http://shopping.msn.com/content/shp/?ctId=8323,ptnrid=37,ptnrdata=24095&tcode=wlmtagline
Message 13
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| Subject: | Enuff 701 wings for this week!! |
The NHL All-Stars skate tonight. So a fattening evening meal, tune out the news,
play with the grandkids grandmaw, watch the puck drop.
Besides, parallax error will get you every time if you allow magnetic deviation
to affect RPM on the 912.
Regards to all,
Zed
do not archive
Message 14
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| Subject: | Where could that part be... |
Jon,
You are not alone, Pal!
When I fitted my canopy bubble, I rough-cut the rubber seal strips, one for the
front, one for the back, and one for the forward canopy frame flashing. I didn't
have enough left over for the other forward flashing, so had to order a little
more from ZAC. After I removed the canopy bubble, I just draped the rubber
strips over the rear fuselage. Some time later, I became aware that one of
the longer strips was missing. I am building in a garage that belongs to two
"pack rats" after (too many) years of marriage. I searched every nook and cranny
(and there are LOTS of crannys) several times, but didn't find it. I finally
ordered more from ZAC. During one of his visits, I was telling my son about
the missing rubber strip, and He said "like this one?", handing me the missing
strip! I had draped it over the black handle of my lawn mower and just
missed looking there every time I searched. Talk about feeling foolish!
Jay in Dallas
Do not archive!
"Jon Burns" <lsapilot@HOTMAIL.COM> wrote:
>
>My second faux pas.
>
>I was near the end of the elevator build, and I couldn't find the horn
>doubler 6T3-6.
>
>I went back through my entire inventory to track it down, to no avail. I
>did have the "L" bracket _leftover_ from that part of the kit. After
>examing the plans in greater detail, I realized what I did.
>
>I don't know it it was just too late, or I was relying on the photo assembly
>reference too much, but it seems that I cut up 6T3-6, as the "L" bracket for
>6T3-2.
>
>A call went to Zenith the next AM to have a new $4.00 piece ol AL shipped
>Blue...
>
>Fun!
>
>Jon Burns
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>Valentines Day -- Shop for gifts that spell L-O-V-E at MSN Shopping
>http://shopping.msn.com/content/shp/?ctId=8323,ptnrid=37,ptnrdata=24095&tcode=wlmtagline
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: 701 wing mis-information |
Steve, David, and all,
I appreciate your input on this...
I do understand the error in visual preception that occurs when you are
not viewing the rivet line at exactly 90 degrees from above...
This is why I will still suggest that the best way (for me, anyway.. and
I respect others' way of dealing with this) is to NOT level the plane in
any direction but rather use a measuring tape, which is not affected by
parallax errors or trying to determine an exact 90 degree observation
vantage (because you WILL be on a ladder trying to attempt this
observation). The measurement of a point on both wing tips to a common
point on the fuselage will determine with great accuracy the proper
alignment of the wings. No guessing here.. I agree wholeheartly with
Steve about viewing the rivet line and seeing it move when you start
lifting the wings.. or moving your head to the left or right....that is
precisely why I don't like to to make judgements from what I see when
the angle of sight is so critical. I start by leveling each wing to
each other (not the ground!) and then adjust each wing to match (to the
millimeter using a tape) from that far point on the fuselage near the
tail to each wing tip. When this is done (and use a helper to confirm
accuracy), drill the tabs. Of course, watch your edge distances...
Your last detail is to raise both wings to the specs in the plans..
which, again have no basis on level to earth, rather they are measured
with a ruler to points between the fuse and wings.
Nothing wrong with eyeballing things for confirmation and comfort, but I
rather use a ruler to make the final adjustments.
I do NOT have the final word on this, but am simply expressing my
understanding of what is in my head at this time. I look forward to
more discussion on this if you think I have it wrong. Sometimes, what
works best for each of us may be different -- and thats OK ! (I am not
saying you are wrong to level things -- just that it creates no
advantage for my method, and might cause confusion in the least)
You guys are the best!
Jon
----- Original Message -----
From: David Downey
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2007 3:51 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: 701 wing mis-information
...the elimination of parallax error is one of the things involved. In
some ways, this is specifically the reason why it is so critical to have
the plane leveled according to the designers requirements when doing a
weight and ballance.
Steve & Kim Kurash <stevekimk@gmail.com> wrote:
Actually Jon it does matter. Especially the leveling of the
aircraft along the A-E reference line ( I stand corrected Bob). This is
because of the wing dihedral. If the wing had no dihedral there would be
no need
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: zenith pitot tube V's Dynon tube |
Just made my Dynon Pitot standoff. It will be permanently mounted on the left
wing when riveting the wing skin. The pluming will be accessible through the
wing locker. The Dynon Pitot won't be in place till assembly at the Airport.
Still going to have to be careful moving that wing around though.
--------
Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
Corvair Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=90245#90245
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Enuff 701 wings for this week!! |
Don't forget to reset your flux capacitor to accomodate for post winter
solstice precession. My wife is an American Idol fan so guess what we're
watching. Much more fun to see guys on ice skates fight with bent
sticks.
Ed
----- Original Message -----
From: Zed Smith
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2007 4:44 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Enuff 701 wings for this week!!
The NHL All-Stars skate tonight. So a fattening evening meal, tune
out the news, play with the grandkids grandmaw, watch the puck drop.
Besides, parallax error will get you every time if you allow magnetic
deviation to affect RPM on the 912.
Regards to all,
Zed
do not archive
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: 701 wing mis-information |
And I did forget (sorry!) to mention that I use the string (also used
for dihedral setting) to determine when the rivet lines are matched from
wing to wing (to make sure the wings are not swept forward or aft). The
string will be touching the rivet lines so it is easy to see this
adjustment.
----- Original Message -----
From: Jon Croke
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2007 6:29 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: 701 wing mis-information
Steve, David, and all,
I appreciate your input on this...
I do understand the error in visual preception that occurs when you
are not viewing the rivet line at exactly 90 degrees from above...
Message 19
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| Subject: | 701 elevator upper limit stop |
I didn't find an upper limit stop either but in my plane so far the back
of the control stick against the edge of the seat has worked ok.
Joe
701 69 hours
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: 701 wing mis-information |
I hope you are leveling the fuse also otherwise you may endup with a
parrallel wings and fuse not level
To make it easy it is best to level and square fuse before this critical
stage of setting up wings.
you are setting up
front of wings mount position at same height.
wings parralell in forwards and backwards direction
angle of incidence front mount point to back mount point
Dihedral at front of wing.
angle of incedence at both outer wings
so you need to get it right
Graeme bell
----- Original Message -----
From: Jon Croke
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2007 10:29 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: 701 wing mis-information
Steve, David, and all,
I appreciate your input on this...
I do understand the error in visual preception that occurs when you
are not viewing the rivet line at exactly 90 degrees from above...
This is why I will still suggest that the best way (for me, anyway..
and I respect others' way of dealing with this) is to NOT level the
plane in any direction but rather use a measuring tape, which is not
affected by parallax errors or trying to determine an exact 90 degree
observation vantage (because you WILL be on a ladder trying to attempt
this observation). The measurement of a point on both wing tips to a
common point on the fuselage will determine with great accuracy the
proper alignment of the wings. No guessing here.. I agree wholeheartly
with Steve about viewing the rivet line and seeing it move when you
start lifting the wings.. or moving your head to the left or
right....that is precisely why I don't like to to make judgements from
what I see when the angle of sight is so critical. I start by leveling
each wing to each other (not the ground!) and then adjust each wing to
match (to the millimeter using a tape) from that far point on the
fuselage near the tail to each wing tip. When this is done (and use a
helper to confirm accuracy), drill the tabs. Of course, watch your edge
distances... Your last detail is to raise both wings to the specs in
the plans.. which, again have no basis on level to earth, rather they
are measured with a ruler to points between the fuse and wings.
Nothing wrong with eyeballing things for confirmation and comfort, but
I rather use a ruler to make the final adjustments.
I do NOT have the final word on this, but am simply expressing my
understanding of what is in my head at this time. I look forward to
more discussion on this if you think I have it wrong. Sometimes, what
works best for each of us may be different -- and thats OK ! (I am not
saying you are wrong to level things -- just that it creates no
advantage for my method, and might cause confusion in the least)
You guys are the best!
Jon
----- Original Message -----
From: David Downey
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2007 3:51 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: 701 wing mis-information
...the elimination of parallax error is one of the things involved.
In some ways, this is specifically the reason why it is so critical to
have the plane leveled according to the designers requirements when
doing a weight and ballance.
Steve & Kim Kurash <stevekimk@gmail.com> wrote:
Actually Jon it does matter. Especially the leveling of the
aircraft along the A-E reference line ( I stand corrected Bob). This is
because of the wing dihedral. If the wing had no dihedral there would be
no need
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
24/01/2007
Message 21
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| Subject: | Enuff 701 wings for this week!! |
Dear Zed:
I have been trying to master the below mentioned ZA building skill, but
alas, have continued to be told that not only are my techniques clumsy,
amateurish, and unskillful, but there are constant references to not being
properly prepared with the correct tooling. Could you please point me to
the pertinent area of the ZA builder's guide that describes this skill area,
hopefully with illustrations, I will be ever so grateful.
Best Regards,
Randy L. Thwing, Las Vegas do not archive
I'm sorry, I'm sorry, I'm sorry
play with the grandkids grandmaw,
Zed
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: zenith pitot tube V's Dynon tube |
Chris,
The Dynon Pitot probe replaces the standard
Zenith dynamic probe. It acts as an aoa probe as
well. You will have to run a third line for static
pressure, for a total of 3. I placed my static port
in the aft fuselage, but that is builder preference.
I mounted the probe under the baggage locker,
allowing for easy access, and delayed installation. I
cut the holes and fabricated the mounts, but did not
rivet into place until the wings were mounted for the
last time. Having a probe hanging down makes it a
real pain in the ass to transport. -More so than you
might think...
VR/
Brandon
Don't pick lemons.
See all the new 2007 cars at Yahoo! Autos.
http://autos.yahoo.com/new_cars.html
Message 23
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| Subject: | Cutting out trim tab? |
Gang:
I'm at the point where I need to cut out the elevator trim tab from a
built elevator. I have all the lines carefully marked and would like to
hear some technique suggestions for making these cuts.
My own idea is to split or cut out the trailing edge between the end
lines (with a band saw?), cut the end lines with shears, drill out the
aft two middle-rib rivets, and finally cut the top and bottom spanwise
lines by scoring with the laminate knife and breaking out the sections.
Other ideas?
Andy Elliott, Mesa, AZ
N601GE (reserved)
601XL/TD/QB, Corvair, building...
Message 24
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| Subject: | Cutting out trim tab? |
HYPERLINK "http://www.ch601.org/tools.htm"http://www.ch601.org/tools.htm
HYPERLINK
"http://www.ch601.org/tools/olfa.htm"http://www.ch601.org/tools/olfa.htm
Use the Olfa pad wan !!!!!
Mark Townsend Alma, Ontario
Zodiac 601XL C-GOXL, CH701 just started
HYPERLINK "http://www.ch601.org"www.ch601.org / HYPERLINK
"http://www.ch701.com"www.ch701.com/ HYPERLINK
"http://www.Osprey2.com"www.Osprey2.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dr. Andrew
Elliott
Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2007 10:53 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Cutting out trim tab?
Gang:
I'm at the point where I need to cut out the elevator trim tab from a
built elevator. I have all the lines carefully marked and would like to
hear some technique suggestions for making these cuts.
My own idea is to split or cut out the trailing edge between the end
lines (with a band saw?), cut the end lines with shears, drill out the
aft two middle-rib rivets, and finally cut the top and bottom spanwise
lines by scoring with the laminate knife and breaking out the sections.
Other ideas?
Andy Elliott, Mesa, AZ
N601GE (reserved)
601XL/TD/QB, Corvair, building...
"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List"http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?Zenith-List
"http://forums.matronics.com"http://forums.matronics.com
--
1/24/2007 6:48 PM
--
1/24/2007 6:48 PM
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: 701 elevator upper limit stop |
Same for me.
Bob Spudis
N701ZX/CH-701 100hrs
do not archive
In a message dated 1/24/2007 8:15:45 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
jpspencer@cableone.net writes:
I didn't find an upper limit stop either but in my plane so far the back of
the control stick against the edge of the seat has worked ok.
Joe
701 69 hours
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Cutting out trim tab? |
Hi Andy,
Its been a while since I did that one, but here is what I think I would do now.
First, stop drill the inside corners with something like a 1/4"
drill. Then I would use a fairly large step drill - perhaps 3/4" or
7/8" to make a starting point for the shears. I would drill this in
the waste material perhaps 1" from the final cut line. Then it is a
matter of cutting with the shears. The first cuts would leave about
1/4" to the final cut line, and then I would work my way closer to
the final line until I was there. Perhaps the last few thousandths
in some areas would be done with a file rather than the
shears. Clean up the edges with a smooth file and it is done.
Paul
XL fuselage
At 07:53 PM 1/24/2007, you wrote:
>Gang:
>
>I'm at the point where I need to cut out the elevator trim tab from
>a built elevator. I have all the lines carefully marked and would
>like to hear some technique suggestions for making these cuts.
>
>My own idea is to split or cut out the trailing edge between the end
>lines (with a band saw?), cut the end lines with shears, drill out
>the aft two middle-rib rivets, and finally cut the top and bottom
>spanwise lines by scoring with the laminate knife and breaking out
>the sections.
>
>Other ideas?
>
>Andy Elliott, Mesa, AZ
>N601GE (reserved)
>601XL/TD/QB, Corvair, building...
-
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