Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:14 AM - Re: Final assembly: Rear spar bolt (Martin Pohl)
2. 05:04 AM - Final Engine Selection (secatur)
3. 05:07 AM - Re: Hat Stiffener Press + Pic of the day (ashontz)
4. 05:16 AM - Re: Hat Stiffener Press + Pic of the day (ashontz)
5. 05:49 AM - Re: Drill Bit Durability (Noel Loveys)
6. 07:20 AM - Re: Carb Heat on Rotax 912 ULS? (Tommy Walker)
7. 07:27 AM - Re: Final Engine Selection (Edward Moody II)
8. 07:49 AM - Re: Carb Heat on Rotax 912 ULS? (Gordon)
9. 08:08 AM - Re: Drill Bit Durability (Tim Shankland)
10. 09:57 AM - Re: Drill Bit Durability (Crvsecretary@aol.com)
11. 11:35 AM - Remove the wings off CH601UL (Canatukker)
12. 12:09 PM - Re: Carb Heat on Rotax 912 ULS? (NYTerminat@aol.com)
13. 01:56 PM - follow-up on parts search (Zed Smith)
14. 02:11 PM - Re: Drill Bit Durability (Paul Mulwitz)
15. 02:47 PM - Re: Remove the wings off CH601UL (LarryMcFarland)
16. 02:52 PM - Re: Drill Bit Durability (Neitzel)
17. 05:57 PM - Re: Final Engine Selection (Ron Lendon)
18. 05:58 PM - Re: Remove the wings off CH601UL (Canatukker)
19. 08:21 PM - Re: Carb Heat on Rotax 912 ULS? (David X)
20. 08:31 PM - Re: Drill Bit Durability (JohnDRead@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Final assembly: Rear spar bolt |
Thank you for all your postings. I am releived now... :D
Martin
--------
Martin Pohl
Zodiac XL QBK
8645 Jona, Switzerland
www.pohltec.ch/ZodiacXL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=92767#92767
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| Subject: | Final Engine Selection |
I think I have finally solved my engine selection !!!
Reckon a 24 x 10 prop will be ok ???? [Twisted Evil]
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=92770#92770
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/saito1_188.jpg
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| Subject: | Re: Hat Stiffener Press + Pic of the day |
sky_ranger161 wrote:
> After a few failed attempts at making hat stiffeners for the main spar, I decided
to try making a press die for them in much the same way I made my flanging
dies. Here's what I came up with. I used the same timbertech composite material
as I used for the flanging dies, and was able to fabricate the whole set using
a table saw and some 5-minute epoxy from ACE hardware. I rounded all of the
corners to the proper radius, and epoxied the male 45-degree press flange to
the top die. To use them, I put a piece of .025 between the dies and put them
under pressure with the shop press until the bend is formed, then trim the flanges
to the proper size. Out comes perfectly shaped, high-quality,?repeatable
hat stiffeners lookin' like the factory made 'em.
> ?
> Debo Cox
> Nags Head, NC
> XL/Corvair
> Moving slow, but still moving (which is good)
>
>
I started to design the exact same thing last night. Good to see it works. My only
question, do you have any spring back in the angles or contour the exact same
as the part specified in the plans? I was thinking of making one with spring
back built in but it may not be necessary. I'll try this frist because building
in springback is a lot more work and if it doesn't need it that'd be great.
--------
CH601XL - Corvair
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=92771#92771
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| Subject: | Re: Hat Stiffener Press + Pic of the day |
Ron Lendon wrote:
> Debo,
>
> You are the master. I had someone offer to buy my flanging dies the other day,
which I declined, and I refered him to your pics.
>
> You might wanna take a look at how I solved bending the flaps. The final 163
degree bend was done with the 200lb gravity actuated stomp press [Laughing]
I used the same gravity actuated stomp press for my rudder skin and elevator skin.
Can't beat the price.
--------
CH601XL - Corvair
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=92773#92773
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| Subject: | Drill Bit Durability |
When drilling aluminium I tend to use a high speed.... As fast as possible
and just let the bit drill the hole. I too sharpen my bits on a bench
grinder and if I have time I take out the bit sharpener which is actually
nothing more than a fancy bit guide for sharpening. I've even reformed
heads on broken bits to get a hole drilled.
I never use any pressure on the drill at all. Steel is another matter. As
slow as possible, fair pressure and a good supply of cutting oil.
Certainly you should always have a reasonable supply of #s 40,30 and 20
because the only time you will need another one is when the tool shop is
closed.
If you use a deburring tool it may be a good idea to have an extra one of
those on hand too. Generally I use a 3/8 bit in my hand to de burr....
Just remember to deburr gently or you could end up chamfering your hole.
Noel
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Scott Laughlin
> Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 7:27 PM
> To: zenith-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Zenith-List: Drill Bit Durability
>
>
> <cookwithgas@hotmail.com>
>
> Dave:
>
> I built both wings and half my fuselage with one drill bit of
> each size.
> When I lost one, I ordered two more and finished the plane.
> Buy three or
> four of each and don't lose them and you will be good to go.
>
> Scott Laughlin
> CH601XL
> Omaha, Nebraska
> www.cooknwithgas.com
> Still Polishing
>
>
> Time: 06:58:40 PM PST US
> From: "Dave VanLanen" <davevanlanen@sbcglobal.net>
> Subject: Zenith-List: Drill Bit Durability
>
> Can anyone who has finished their aircraft give me a ballpark
> idea of how
> many holes I should typically be able to get out of a hi-moly
> drill bit (#30
> and #20)?
>
> Thanks,
> Dave
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> FREE online classifieds from Windows Live Expo - buy and sell
> with people
> you know
>
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Carb Heat on Rotax 912 ULS? |
Lockwood Aviation http://www.lockwood-aviation.com
<http://www.lockwood-aviation.com/> sells a carb heat device. I think they
are one of the largest Rotax dealers in the U.S. I see it in their catalog,
but their website is the most difficult site I've ever encountered when
searching for parts.
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Final Engine Selection |
That's gonna save a lot of fiberglas work. What climb, cruise and gph do
you anticipate?
Dred
Do Not Archive (once was enough)
----- Original Message -----
From: secatur
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, February 04, 2007 7:03 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Final Engine Selection
I think I have finally solved my engine selection !!!
Reckon a 24 x 10 prop will be ok ???? [Twisted Evil]
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Carb Heat on Rotax 912 ULS? |
I agree --- trying to navigate the Lockwood online catalog takes more
patience than I have. I have their printed catalog, but for a lot of
items it says to go to the online catalog for details and cost. I did
order an engine from them (haven't seen it yet), and had planned on
purchasing engine instruments and other misc. from them, but it was just
to difficult. I've heard good things about the company, but I think they
are missing out on sales because of poor website design.
Gordon
----- Original Message -----
From: Tommy Walker
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, February 04, 2007 10:19 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Carb Heat on Rotax 912 ULS?
Lockwood Aviation http://www.lockwood-aviation.com sells a carb heat
device. I think they are one of the largest Rotax dealers in the U.S.
I see it in their catalog, but their website is the most difficult site
I've ever encountered when searching for parts.
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Drill Bit Durability |
Dave,
I received one #20 and #30 bit with my rudder kit many years ago. My
drill fell one day and broke off the end of the #30 bit, Thus I went to
Sears Hardware and bought an extra of each, by the way I resharpened and
still use the shortened bit. I still have them and use them. The trick
is to either learn how to sharpen then freehand or buy a sharpener.
Other than breakage or loss a single drill bit will last for the whole
project. You will want to invest in the right angle and long bits to
reach those places where you just can't get the drill in.
Tim Shankland
Dave VanLanen wrote:
> Can anyone who has finished their aircraft give me a ballpark idea of
> how many holes I should typically be able to get out of a hi-moly
> drill bit (#30 and #20)?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dave
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Drill Bit Durability |
Hello fellow listers:
Just a comment on resharpening these small drill bits...
I don't believe the typical hobbyist can accurately resharpen drill bits
except with a middle to high end sharpener, and with the capital expense
involved, why bother? Freehand sharpening can only approximate the angles involved
(yes, I agree small drill bits do not have to involve reducing the web and
other intricate angles) and with the best of freehand sharpening, you will only
get one of the cutting edges working at a time. Not a good practice where
the goal is nice, round holes.
For amateurs like me and others who do not have the benefit of being, or
working with machinists with a LOT of gray hair earned with years of trying to
accurately resharpen drill bits, I say use 'em & pitch 'em.
They are cheap enough; when they stop cutting quickly, toss 'em. That being
said, with high cutting speeds and low feeds (light pressure on the drill),
a good quality drill bit cuts LOTS of holes.
Tracy Smith
Naugatuck, CT
601xl N458XL (reserved)
In a message dated 2/4/2007 11:09:27 AM Eastern Standard Time,
tshank@core.com writes:
Dave,
I received one #20 and #30 bit with my rudder kit many years ago. My drill
fell one day and broke off the end of the #30 bit, Thus I went to Sears
Hardware and bought an extra of each, by the way I resharpened and still use the
shortened bit. I still have them and use them. The trick is to either learn
how to sharpen then freehand or buy a sharpener. Other than breakage or loss a
single drill bit will last for the whole project. You will want to invest in
the right angle and long bits to reach those places where you just can't get
the drill in.
Tim Shankland
Dave VanLanen wrote:
Can anyone who has finished their aircraft give me a ballpark idea of how
many holes I should typically be able to get out of a hi-moly drill bit (#30
and #20)?
Thanks,
Dave
Message 11
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| Subject: | Remove the wings off CH601UL |
He My name is Ron Smit live in chilliwack B.C. Canada,
I recently bought a Zenair Zodiac 601 ul in Edmonton Alberta We are going to pick
her up on the 16th of this month .
My question to this forum is do I have to pay attention to a particular area when
removing the wings, and how do I remove those wings?
thanks for Your reply . regards Ron Smit.
--------
lets go flying
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=92848#92848
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Carb Heat on Rotax 912 ULS? |
Thanks for saying that their site is difficult. It has to be the MOST
difficult site to try to order from!!!! I get so frustrated by them and hav
e told
them many times, but seems to have fallen on deaf ears.
Do not archive
Bob Spudis
In a message dated 2/4/2007 10:22:27 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
twalker@cableone.net writes:
Lockwood Aviation _http://www.lockwood-aviation.com_
(http://www.lockwood-aviation.com/) sells a carb heat device. I think the
y are one of the largest
Rotax dealers in the U.S. I see it in their catalog, but their website is
the most difficult site I=99ve ever encountered when searching for pa
rts.
Message 13
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| Subject: | follow-up on parts search |
Tommy,
Regarding the Lockwood web site: You got that right; I gave up trying to use it.
Lockwood is probably the most knowledgeable 912 dealer in the U.S., but the "parts
search" sucketh.
He produces a good print catalog. Request one.
Zed/701/912/90+%/etc/please archive
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Drill Bit Durability |
Hi Tracy,
I respect your position on resharpening drill bits, as well as your
analysis of some of the issues involved. On the other hand, I think
there is something to be said for the other approach
too. (Admittedly, I do have lots of grey hair.)
Building an all metal airplane is mostly an exercise in drilling
holes. For me, that means focusing on the hole drilling process is a
good way to improve your building experience. It is also an area
where a little learning goes a long way. (Remember, education is one
of the primary reasons we are supposed to be building these contraptions.)
I decided to learn "Free hand" drill bit resharpening a couple of
years ago -- about the same time I started work on my XL. I found it
relatively easy to turn a dull bit into one that drilled holes better
than before. OK, maybe the angles on the bit didn't end up the same
as they started. Does this really matter when holding a contest
between tool steel and aluminum? Indeed, my reading on the web told
me a drill should have a sharper angle for drilling soft materials
than the one provided on store-bought drills which are designed to
drill steel parts.
My recommendation for anyone new to the drill sharpening process is
this: Start with new bits. When they get dull put them aside and
use a new one. After a while you will have a small collection of
dull bits. You can try to resharpen these yourself. You can also
get someone who knows how to do it to show you. Or, you can just
throw them out. If you try to learn how to do this yourself, the
only possible loss is some time. Perhaps you will renew the bits or
perhaps you won't.
I think there are three "Secrets" to drill bit sharpening. The
first is to have a grinding wheel with a really flat surface and
sharp corners at the edges. The second is to start holding the bit
at the same angle as you do each side of the point. The third is to
"Scrape" the bit upward as you finish the point to get the rake angle
needed to make the drill actually remove metal. The last part (not a
secret at all) is to inspect the point - if it comes out with the
point in the middle of the bit then both sides are the same. If you
try twisting the bit into a piece of wood it should dig in. In this
case you have a nice new bit to make more holes in your airplane.
Of course anyone can say this is too hard to learn or not worth the
effort. Still, if you do you will feel good about learning a new
skill and also find yourself a little better off when it comes to
having the tool you need when you need it.
Best regards,
Paul
XL fuselage
>For amateurs like me and others who do not have the benefit of
>being, or working with machinists with a LOT of gray hair earned
>with years of trying to accurately resharpen drill bits, I say use
>'em & pitch 'em.
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Remove the wings off CH601UL |
Hi Ron,
Congratulations, The UL is similar to the HD. Detachment of the wings
is found at the wing joint covers where the wing bends.
There are screws front center and trailing that secure the wing joint
covers, usually a dozen screws holding the wing joint in place
along the edges. Once removed, the electrical wires and pitot lines
should be marked and separated at this joint. If provisions haven't been
made, cut them after marking and duct tape them secure at the ends of
the wings. You should have a screw at the rear spar that can be removed
to separate each spar. It may have a plate nut or a self locking nut
holding it. The front spar has 4 AN-6 bolts (3/8-inch) that secure the
wings to splice plates each side. After these have been loosened, get a
spare set of hands to hold the outboard end of the wing and push the
bolts out. Then provide support both ends of each wing and slide the
wing straight out from between the splice plates. The angles top and
bottom will guide the wing off, but don't rely on them for supporting
the weight of the wing with the bolts removed.
If you're transporting the wings any distance, by truck internally, make
hangars with carpet that will support the wings at the nose to
evenly carry the structure. If you've got time, make a wing jig to
support the wings on foam the length of the nose. If external trailer,
better to lay them flat on soft foam support large area, 20% of the
wing. Again, foam rented from an upholstery shop might do as they have
slabs of the stuff.
Drain your tanks of fuel, remove the battery and pitot tubes from the
wing if possible and anything else that might be sensitive to roads.
This advice presumes a lot on your mode of transport, but if you have a
lot of ratchet straps, 8 - 10 should get you there.
I have below, several links that suggest methods, but you may need a
longer trailer for the wings. I did this in two trips.
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/wing/spliceplates/full/splice-plate-bolts-and-spar.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/completion/full/viewleftwingjoint.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/TJH/HScentersection/full/wg2rack2.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/tjh/hscentersection/full/trailerwinching2.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/tjh/hscentersection/full/loadedcenter.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/tjh/hscentersection/full/Zenith-on-the-roadh.jpg
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/tjh/hscentersection/full/zenith-to-airport.jpg
Good luck,
Larry McFarland
Canatukker wrote:
>
> He My name is Ron Smit live in chilliwack B.C. Canada,
> I recently bought a Zenair Zodiac 601 ul in Edmonton Alberta We are going to
pick her up on the 16th of this month .
> My question to this forum is do I have to pay attention to a particular area
when removing the wings, and how do I remove those wings?
> thanks for Your reply . regards Ron Smit.
>
> --------
> lets go flying
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=92848#92848
>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Drill Bit Durability |
I have found one of the easiest and most accurate means of "touching up" a
drill bit is a cut off wheel in my hand held Dremel. The side of the cut
off wheel makes for an ultra smooth surface to work on, and because it is
hand held, I can walk over to my magnifier light (have gray hair too) and
steady my hands on my chest. I have pretty good results with this method.
I have a couple of long drills, which I made using a quarter inch steel rod
that I drilled holes in the end then brazed a smaller bit in the end. I
don't want to go through the hassle of reattaching drills to these
extensions so a brief touch on the cut off wheel brings them back to life.
Granted using the side of the fragile cut off wheels might not be how they
were intended to be used but so far I have not broken a single wheel
sharpening a bit.
Dick Neitzel
Sayner, WI
701 Jab 2200
N963WB
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Final Engine Selection |
That oughta be great on gas.
--------
Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
Corvair Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=92895#92895
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| Subject: | Re: Remove the wings off CH601UL |
Larry thanks verry much for the info I will have a long trailer as my new bird
is an tail dragger I.m going to need 17 ft I think. if anyone has the exact messurement
from main to tail wheel I would like to hear it .thanks again ,I can
hardly wait to get her home From a rainy Chilliwack B.C. Ron smit
p.s. here an link to some pic. http://s30.photobucket.com/albums/c325/smitfire/?action=view¤t=1170640161.pbw
--------
lets go flying
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=92896#92896
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| Subject: | Re: Carb Heat on Rotax 912 ULS? |
I agree that their web site is awful. I usually just call on the phone, they take
care of me.
--------
Zodiac 601 XL - CZAW Built - Rotax 912S
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=92908#92908
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| Subject: | Re: Drill Bit Durability |
Hello List:
Drills will last longer if a small amount of lubricant is
used during drilling. I use Boelube from The Yard in Wichita. Burrs after
drilling are also smaller with the use of lubricant.
Regards, John
Building CH701 in Colorado
Do not archive
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