Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:43 AM - Re: Drill Bit Durability (David Downey)
2. 05:15 AM - Re: Updates on Zenith builders web site (steveadams)
3. 08:17 AM - Re: Re: Engine Info? (Don Mountain)
4. 08:24 AM - Don't follow my lead (Ron Lendon)
5. 09:20 AM - Drill Bit Durability (Bob Tezyk)
6. 09:43 AM - Re: Engine Info? (Tim Juhl)
7. 09:47 AM - Re: Re: Carb Heat on Rotax 912 ULS? (Steve Hulland)
8. 11:15 AM - Re: Re: Carb Heat on Rotax 912 ULS? (John Marzulli)
9. 11:52 AM - FW: Rotax 912UL for sale (John and Kim Lumkes)
10. 12:16 PM - Re: Carb Heat on Rotax 912 ULS? (Gig Giacona)
11. 12:22 PM - Re: Re: Carb Heat on Rotax 912 ULS? (NYTerminat@aol.com)
12. 01:14 PM - Re: Carb Heat on Rotax 912 ULS? (Tommy Walker)
13. 02:02 PM - Re: Drill Bit Durability (Dave Ruddiman)
14. 02:38 PM - Re: Carb Heat on Rotax 912 ULS? (Jeffrey A Beachy)
15. 02:47 PM - Re: Carb Heat on Rotax 912 ULS? (JERICKSON03E@aol.com)
16. 03:37 PM - Drill Doctor (George Race)
17. 04:01 PM - Re: Drill Doctor (Dave G.)
18. 04:19 PM - 801 Bottom Fuselage Skin (Dave Ruddiman)
19. 05:15 PM - Re: 801 Bottom Fuselage Skin (LarryMcFarland)
20. 05:21 PM - Decision on Carb Heat for Rotax 912 ULS!!!!!! (Ken Arnold)
21. 07:59 PM - Re: 801 Bottom Fuselage Skin (Dave Ruddiman)
22. 08:03 PM - Re: Don't follow my lead (Ron Lendon)
23. 10:08 PM - Bing carb on Jab3300 (chris Sinfield)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Drill Bit Durability |
we used beeswax at Cessna in Wichita. warm the bit and push it into the block or
spin the bit on teh side of the block.
do not archive
JohnDRead@aol.com wrote:
Hello List:
Drills will last longer if a small amount of lubricant is used
during drilling. I use Boelube from The Yard in Wichita. Burrs after drilling
are also smaller with the use of lubricant.
Regards, John
Building CH701 in Colorado
Do not archive
Dave Downey
Harleysville (SE) PA
Zodiac 601XL/Corvair?
---------------------------------
TV dinner still cooling?
Check out "Tonight's Picks" on Yahoo! TV.
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Subject: | Re: Updates on Zenith builders web site |
Hello Craig,
I built and fly a CH640 (mine is the red/white one on the Zenair update page).
They used to have a rudder build class at AMD in Eastman, GA, but I don't know
if that is still available. Support for the 640 comes mainly from Zenair directly,
or AMD. If you have any questions, feel free to contact me directly at stephen.adams@hcahealthcare.com.
Steve Adams
N621J
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=92938#92938
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Subject: | Re: Engine Info? |
I have looked at the information on the Zenith website, but then when I started
looking for actual engines to purchase I started coming across a bunch of different
models of each of these. The Lycoming 0-235 engines generally have some
more model numbers after the 0-235 that seem to indicate different horsepowers
and stuff like that. And I don't know which of these would be suitable for
my needs.
Don
I assume you've looked at the specs on the Zenith website
On the certified side the Cont 0-200 and Lyc 235 are the most common.
There is a link to a number of other engine choices at
Tim Juhl
Jabiru 3300A
--------
DO NOT ARCHIVE
______________
CFII
Champ L16A flying
Zodiac XL - Working on wings
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=92487#92487
---------------------------------
Now that's room service! Choose from over 150,000 hotels
in 45,000 destinations on Yahoo! Travel to find your fit.
Message 4
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Subject: | Don't follow my lead |
Well after spending the last week or so on the LE skin I have to admit, I MADE
A MISTAKE!.
The skin radius was to small using the 1.75 stop blocks and I will try again tonight. This time I will make several test strips and work it through the whole process. Also I will start with 58mm blocks, just like it says on http://ch601.org/resources/Nose%20Skin/bending_a_nose_skin.htm More later.
Do not archive
--------
Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
Corvair Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=92965#92965
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Subject: | Drill Bit Durability |
One thing I have not seen mentioned in this thread has been the Drill
Doctor. The Drill Doctor will sharpen a drill bit to a perfect point in
under a minute. You will be surprised what a difference it makes to
always have a sharp bit. In addition to getting better holes, there is
a time savings in drilling every hole with a sharp bit. It is designed
to make a perfect point and removes a minimum of metal doing it. I have
had one for years and have all but stopped buying drill bits. I drill a
lot of steel, so drill wear is a constant issue for me.
They make several different versions starting at under $100. I got the
cheap one but in retrospect, I should have opted for the lowest price
one that has a replacable diamond wheel. I can tell that I am getting
near the point of replacing it due to the wheel wearing out.
Regards,
Bob Tezyk
Midlothian, TX
601XL / 3300 S/N 6-6777
Rudder Complete, Took delivery of the QB kit.
bob@eaglesnestestates.org
http://neo.datamatrix.com/eaglesnestestates/index.php?option=com_rsgall
ery2&Itemid=28&catid=23
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Subject: | Re: Engine Info? |
How about the type certificate data sheets on file with the FAA? Go to http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgMakeModel.nsf/MainFrame?OpenFrameSet
Search by TCDS number
For Lycoming 0-235 search E-223
For Continental 0-200 search E-252
The TCDS are in pdf format so you'll need Adobe Reader available free from www.adobe.com
I hope this helps!
Tim Juhl
--------
DO NOT ARCHIVE
______________
CFII
Champ L16A flying
Zodiac XL - Working on wings
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=92976#92976
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Subject: | Re: Carb Heat on Rotax 912 ULS? |
Lotsa dead pilots, including their passengers, who did not use carb heat.
Not putting it on could lead to a life defining event.
Do Not Archive
--
Semper Fi,
Steven R. Hulland
CH 600 Taildragger
Amado, AZ
This and all other incoming/outgoing email, attachments and replies scanned
prior to opening/sending and uses an external firewall to help insure virus
free email and attachments.
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Carb Heat on Rotax 912 ULS? |
The 0-200 in my 150 gets carb ice if I even look at it wrong, but then again
Seattle tends to have moist air in the right temperature ranges most of the
year.
Once in a rented 172, somewhere south of Denali/McKinley I got some bad carb
ice, so bad that there was some sputtering when I applied heat. It had only
been five minutes since I had last checked for carb ice. Luckily it cleared
up and all was OK.
Nothing will convince you more that carb heat needs to be checked often even
in cruise than then impending reality of an engine failure somewhere in
Alaska during the winter.
-John in Seattle
On 2/5/07, Steve Hulland <marinegunner@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Lotsa dead pilots, including their passengers, who did not use carb heat.
> Not putting it on could lead to a life defining event.
>
> Do Not Archive
> --
> Semper Fi,
> Steven R. Hulland
> CH 600 Taildragger
> Amado, AZ
>
> This and all other incoming/outgoing email, attachments and replies
> scanned prior to opening/sending and uses an external firewall to help
> insure virus free email and attachments.
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
--
John Marzulli
http://701Builder.blogspot.com/
"Flying a plane is no different than riding a bicycle... it's just a lot
harder to put baseball cards in the spokes.
Message 9
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Subject: | FW: Rotax 912UL for sale |
Just passing this on in case someone is looking for a core or parts or
project...
Contact Dave at davedent@comcast.net for more information and pictures if
interested. I think that he is asking $5K or best offer. I am only
forwarding this on and have no more information than what is below.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----------------
...the engine has just under 100 hrs on it. It was used only as a test cell
engine. In the cell it was used to see if we could get 80hp at 80,000 ft. We
did it with three turbos and electronic ignition and fuel injection. We saw
65hp at 90,000. After the test it was left in the cell for a good six months
and never touched again till we put it in storage in a transportainer. Now
it is in my hangar. It is as we took it out of the cell, without the exhaust
and intake system installed. If anyone wants it they can have the removed
systems. Along with the engine. It will come with a very expensive oil pump
and a bunch of other hardware.
The engine would make a very good short block.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: Carb Heat on Rotax 912 ULS? |
If you have a carb you can get carb ice. You may have to be a member but here is
an excellent article on the subject with a great chart showing how ice even
if the ambient temp is over 100.
http://flighttraining.aopa.org/members/student_pilot/presolo/articles/58.cfm
[quote="arno7452(at)bellsouth.net"]Dear Listers,
I am installing 912 ULS on a CH 701. Due to its cost and perhaps debatable utility,
I have been advised to leave it off. I sure would like to hear some
comments from the list as to whether this is a good approach.
I am taking lessons in an Evektor Sportstar with 912S engine. So far, we have
never used the carb heat. I am flying in Goldsboro, NC. That is about 60
miles east of Raleigh. As I recall flying the Continental O-200, we used carb
heat anytime under 2K rpm.
The POH on the Sportstar only requires carb heat if you suspect icing. i.e.
engine starting to lose power and run rough.
Many thanks,
Ken Arnold
Pikeville, NC
Building CH701 - hoping to fly it in May, 07
> [b]
--------
W.R. "Gig" Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=93013#93013
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Subject: | Re: Carb Heat on Rotax 912 ULS? |
Kevin,
What are you going to do when your Rotax starts running rough and loosing
power?
Bob Spudis
N701ZX /CH-701/912uls/100hrs/carb heat(had to use once so far)
do not archive
In a message dated 2/5/2007 3:17:54 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
wr.giacona@cox.net writes:
The POH on the Sportstar only requires carb heat if you suspect icing.
i.e. engine starting to lose power and run rough.
Many thanks,
Ken Arnold
Pikeville, NC
Building CH701 - hoping to fly it in May, 07
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: Carb Heat on Rotax 912 ULS? |
Hi Bob,
I decided to call Lockwood and ask about the Carb Heat Kit. The lady was very nice. She said they did sell the kit. She directed me to the manufacturer's web site http://www.skydrive.co.uk/sd_sa_ch.asp . She said this was in the UK, so I'm not sure what state that is [Rolling Eyes] .
Lockwood sells two version, with and without a gauge, priced $295 and $325 respectively.
I had a Carburetor temperature gauge on my old Cessna and it was very
accurate. I included it in my instrument scan while flying.
So, if anyone is interested in buying a carb heat kit from Lockwood, then this
is the item. It is also on page 154 of their 2006-2007 Catalog.
Tommy Walker in Alabama
Do Archive
[quote="NYTerminat(at)aol.com"]Thanks for saying that their site is difficult.
It has to be the MOST difficult site to try to order from!!!! I get so frustrated
by them and have told them many times, but seems to have fallen on deaf
ears.
Do not archive
Bob Spudis
In a message dated 2/4/2007 10:22:27 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, twalker@cableone.net
writes:
>
> Lockwood Aviation http://www.lockwood-aviation.com (http://www.lockwood-aviation.com/) sells a carb heat device. I think they are one of the largest Rotax dealers in the U.S. I see it in their catalog, but their website is the most difficult site Ive ever encountered when searching for parts.
>
> >
> >
>
> [b]
--------
Tommy Walker
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=93025#93025
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Subject: | Re: Drill Bit Durability |
I'm glad someone brought up the "Drill Doctor". I've thought about
getting one for years and never did. I haven't always had the best of
luck with what seems like it may be some kind of gimmick devise. I don't
know about other people, but I have a lot more drill bits than the ones
I use on aluminum. Larger bits are a little more expensive to throw away
when they get dull.
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Tezyk
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, February 05, 2007 8:28 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Drill Bit Durability
One thing I have not seen mentioned in this thread has been the Drill
Doctor. The Drill Doctor will sharpen a drill bit to a perfect point in
under a minute. You will be surprised what a difference it makes to
always have a sharp bit. In addition to getting better holes, there is
a time savings in drilling every hole with a sharp bit. It is designed
to make a perfect point and removes a minimum of metal doing it. I have
had one for years and have all but stopped buying drill bits. I drill a
lot of steel, so drill wear is a constant issue for me.
They make several different versions starting at under $100. I got
the cheap one but in retrospect, I should have opted for the lowest
price one that has a replacable diamond wheel. I can tell that I am
getting near the point of replacing it due to the wheel wearing out.
Regards,
Bob Tezyk
Midlothian, TX
601XL / 3300 S/N 6-6777
Rudder Complete, Took delivery of the QB kit.
bob@eaglesnestestates.org
http://neo.datamatrix.com/eaglesnestestates/index.php?option=com_rsgall
ery2&Itemid=28&catid=23
Message 14
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Subject: | Re: Carb Heat on Rotax 912 ULS? |
Add me to the group that finds Lockwood's web site impossible. They have
been terrific on the phone, but I gave up on web orders. Cost them some
sales from me as well.
Jeff Beachy
CH701, 85% completed
Do Not Archive
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Subject: | Re: Carb Heat on Rotax 912 ULS? |
Looks like there are at least three approaches to carb heat for the 912S.
Heated air, carb heat air box system.
Hot coolant flow, see in Lockwood catalogue.
Electric heat, again in Lockwood catalogue.
Any experience or comments please.
Message 16
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I have had the Drill Doctor XP2 for about 2 years. I have not had any
problems with it at all.
It does have a replaceable grinding wheel, but can hardly see any wear on
the wheel and have done a lot of sharpening of #30 and #40 drills. It
really does a great job, nicely centered grind on the flutes every time. I
also do a side cut on the flutes, it does that as a second step in the
sharpening process. Makes the drills go thru aluminum just like it was not
even there. I do use a high speed small air motor to drive the drills.
It comes with a "training" DVD that takes you through the entire process and
even shows you how to service your tool.
They have them at Home Depot and sometimes they have a $20.00 rebate slip
right along with them. Got mine that way!
Highly recommended!
George
Message 17
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Subject: | Re: Drill Doctor |
I was extremely sceptical about the Drill Doctor. A small grinder in a
plastic housing. Well someone at work bought one to sharpen bits instead
of replacing them. I took it home and put it to work one day just to see
what kind of foolish gimmick it was. I now have a huge quantity of
correctly sharpened bits. I hate to admit it because I still think it's
a little gimmicky, but it works. It's slightly harder to get the small
bits aligned properly, but I was trying the cheapest model. Maybe the
others are better at this small nit.
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Ruddiman
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, February 05, 2007 6:01 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Drill Bit Durability
I'm glad someone brought up the "Drill Doctor". I've thought about
getting one for years and never did. I haven't always had the best of
luck with what seems like it may be some kind of gimmick devise. I don't
know about other people, but I have a lot more drill bits than the ones
I use on aluminum. Larger bits are a little more expensive to throw away
when they get dull.
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Tezyk
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, February 05, 2007 8:28 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Drill Bit Durability
One thing I have not seen mentioned in this thread has been the
Drill Doctor. The Drill Doctor will sharpen a drill bit to a perfect
point in under a minute. You will be surprised what a difference it
makes to always have a sharp bit. In addition to getting better holes,
there is a time savings in drilling every hole with a sharp bit. It is
designed to make a perfect point and removes a minimum of metal doing
it. I have had one for years and have all but stopped buying drill
bits. I drill a lot of steel, so drill wear is a constant issue for
me.
They make several different versions starting at under $100. I got
the cheap one but in retrospect, I should have opted for the lowest
price one that has a replacable diamond wheel. I can tell that I am
getting near the point of replacing it due to the wheel wearing out.
Regards,
Bob Tezyk
Midlothian, TX
601XL / 3300 S/N 6-6777
Rudder Complete, Took delivery of the QB kit.
bob@eaglesnestestates.org
http://neo.datamatrix.com/eaglesnestestates/index.php?option=com_rsgall
ery2&Itemid=28&catid=23
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List">http://www.matron
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
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Subject: | 801 Bottom Fuselage Skin |
I know this has come up for some of the other ZAC planes, but when I
took the bottom fuselage skin for my 801 out of the box I discovered
that it is .016. I just assumed it would be .025. It seems like it
should be heavier given the kind of use the plane was designed for. Any
thoughts, anyone?
Dave in Salem
Message 19
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Subject: | Re: 801 Bottom Fuselage Skin |
Dave,
I'd take the .016 piece and lay it over a piece of .020 (not .025) and
use it for a template. .016 is noisy until you've got
lots of paint on it.
Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
do not archive
Dave Ruddiman wrote:
> I know this has come up for some of the other ZAC planes, but when I
> took the bottom fuselage skin for my 801 out of the box I discovered
> that it is .016. I just assumed it would be .025. It seems like it
> should be heavier given the kind of use the plane was designed for.
> Any thoughts, anyone?
>
> Dave in Salem
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Subject: | Decision on Carb Heat for Rotax 912 ULS!!!!!! |
Listers,
Many thanks for all the good comments regarding Carb Heat. I have
discussed the issue with Lockwood and Zenith in Mexico. Here is summary
of discussion with Zenith: The cowling for the CH701 maintains a
relatively warm environment. If the Rotax airbox is not installed, NO
carb heat is required. So, my CH701 will be using the new cowling and
there will be no airbox. So, I will not install carb heat.
These comments are based on discussion with Sebastian Heintz at Zenith
today 2/6/2007. Sebastian indicates there are hundreds of Rotax 912s
that do not have carb heat. They are doing nicely. He also estimates
about 3 hp is lost by not using the airbox to draw in cold air.
To the best of my knowledge, I received no comments from Zenith owners
flying behind the 912 without carb heat.
The carb heat upgrade can be retrofitted at a later date. It is a
collar that fits on the carb and circulates cooling fluid. Fairly
simple install I'm told.
Again, many thanks for your interest and comments.
Ken Arnold
Pikeville, NC
CH701 QB in process
Message 21
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Subject: | Re: 801 Bottom Fuselage Skin |
Larry,
I was planning on using .025 because that's what most of the rest is. I'm
not disputing your suggestion but, why .020 instead of .025? Do you have any
idea why the thinner material on the belly where it seems like it would need
the protection?
Thanks,
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "LarryMcFarland" <larry@macsmachine.com>
Sent: Monday, February 05, 2007 5:14 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: 801 Bottom Fuselage Skin
>
> Dave,
> I'd take the .016 piece and lay it over a piece of .020 (not .025) and use
> it for a template. .016 is noisy until you've got
> lots of paint on it.
>
> Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
> do not archive
>
> Dave Ruddiman wrote:
>> I know this has come up for some of the other ZAC planes, but when I took
>> the bottom fuselage skin for my 801 out of the box I discovered that it
>> is .016. I just assumed it would be .025. It seems like it should be
>> heavier given the kind of use the plane was designed for. Any thoughts,
>> anyone?
>> Dave in Salem
>
>
>
Message 22
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Subject: | Re: Don't follow my lead |
Only needed to make one test strip the directions on CH601.org work great.
--------
Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
Corvair Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=93119#93119
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/le_skin_correct_003_453.jpg
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Subject: | Bing carb on Jab3300 |
I found this on the Yahoo Jab Engine site any one had similar problems as the fuel
pump that was sent with my XL kit was the 40105
Chris..
frm the site.....
first engine start went well except that i had fuel leaks from the bing
carb. i have a facet 40105 electric fuel pump that really overpowered
the needle valve controlled by the floats. this is the pump i understand
is used by many jab owners. after a short engine run without the elec.
pump i shut the engine down as the manual pump was also causing fuel to
leak. leaks were coming out the vent for the fuel bowl.
i spoke to bing and was told that these needle assemblies come with
several spring stiffnesses. i had the weakest spring assembly. bing is
sending me the medium stiffness spring. bing said the stiffest spring is
too stiff and not offered any more. bing said a pulolator pressure
regulator is commonly installed in the fuel line. bing also said they
get a lot of calls for the same problem from a lot of 40105 owners.
maybe i should be looking at a facet pump of around 2-2.5 lbs. i believe
they are made and would be more desireable because these lower pressured
pumps have no check valves. thus no possible valve to stick.
does anyone have anything to add to this or offer any fuel pressure
info?
and also, jim of pacific jabiru was helpful and patient with my phone
calls as all of this was going on during the first start attempt.
[Question] [Question]
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