Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:39 AM - Re: Re: Carb Heat on Rotax 912 ULS? (Gary Gower)
2. 04:32 AM - Re: 801 Bottom Fuselage Skin (Tom Faulkner)
3. 06:07 AM - Re: 801 Bottom Fuselage Skin (n801bh@netzero.com)
4. 06:28 AM - Re: Re: Carb Heat on Rotax 912 ULS? (C Smith)
5. 07:00 AM - Re: Decision on Carb Heat for Rotax 912 ULS!!!!!! (David Austin)
6. 07:21 AM - Re: 801 Bottom Fuselage Skin (LarryMcFarland)
7. 08:07 AM - Re: Bing carb on Jab3300 (Tim Juhl)
8. 08:34 AM - Re: Bing carb on Jab3300 (T. Graziano)
9. 08:54 AM - Delay in Oil Cooler Duct - 701 Rotax Ring Mount (Harrison-Hutcheson)
10. 08:59 AM - Re: 801 Bottom Fuselage Skin801 Bottom Fuselage Skin (Maynard, Brad)
11. 09:42 AM - Re: Re: Bing carb on Jab3300 (Pete Krotje)
12. 10:47 AM - Balistic Chute (Joe)
13. 11:36 AM - Re: 801 Bottom Fuselage Skin801 Bottom Fuselage Skin (Dave Ruddiman)
14. 11:39 AM - Sheet metal brake (Ryan Vechinski)
15. 11:53 AM - Re: Balistic Chute (Craig Payne)
16. 12:13 PM - Re: Sheet metal brake (Craig Payne)
17. 12:37 PM - Re: Sheet metal brake (Administrator)
18. 12:40 PM - Re: Sheet metal brake (Administrator)
19. 01:28 PM - Re: Sheet metal brake (Paul Mulwitz)
20. 02:36 PM - Re: Balistic Chute ()
21. 04:34 PM - Re: Sheet metal brake (Ron Lendon)
22. 05:50 PM - Re: Sheet metal brake (Brandon Tucker)
23. 06:25 PM - Re: Sheet metal brake (Bill Naumuk)
24. 09:30 PM - Re: Sheet metal brake (Harold Klassen)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Carb Heat on Rotax 912 ULS? |
Yeah, Love the oriental massage :-)
Please Do Not Archive!!!
Couldnt resist :-) :-0
I agree that their web site is awful. I usually just call on the phone, they take
care of me.
--------
Zodiac 601 XL - CZAW Built - Rotax 912S
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=92908#92908
---------------------------------
Looking for earth-friendly autos?
Browse Top Cars by "Green Rating" at Yahoo! Autos' Green Center.
Message 2
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| Subject: | 801 Bottom Fuselage Skin |
Dave:
The .016 works fine. Just be careful about dropping tools on it. I think
that it is a strength/weight issue. In this type of construction the skin
carries much of the loads. The belly stresses are such that some weight can
be saved with the .016.
Tom Faulkner
N801TP
80 hrs.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: 801 Bottom Fuselage Skin |
.016 has worked out fine on my beast. As Larry said it is probably noisi
er but mine is so loud now I can't hear anything but horsepower. <G>. Al
so when you get ready to tie into the front bottom skin you will better
luck with the thinner stuff. The thicker skin will help give better pro
tection for those gear up landing though...
do not archive
Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
-- "Dave Ruddiman" <pacificpainting@comcast.net> wrote:
ast.net>
Larry,
I was planning on using .025 because that's what most of the rest is. I'
m
not disputing your suggestion but, why .020 instead of .025? Do you have
any
idea why the thinner material on the belly where it seems like it would
need
the protection?
Thanks,
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "LarryMcFarland" <larry@macsmachine.com>
Sent: Monday, February 05, 2007 5:14 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: 801 Bottom Fuselage Skin
om>
>
> Dave,
> I'd take the .016 piece and lay it over a piece of .020 (not .025) and
use
> it for a template. .016 is noisy until you've got
> lots of paint on it.
>
> Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
> do not archive
>
> Dave Ruddiman wrote:
>> I know this has come up for some of the other ZAC planes, but when I
took
>> the bottom fuselage skin for my 801 out of the box I discovered that
it
>> is .016. I just assumed it would be .025. It seems like it should be
>> heavier given the kind of use the plane was designed for. Any though
ts,
>> anyone?
>> Dave in Salem
>
>
>
========================
===========
========================
===========
========================
===========
<html><P>.016 has worked out fine on my beast. As Larry said it is proba
bly noisier but mine is so loud now I can't hear anything but horsepower
. <G>. Also when you get ready to tie into the front bottom skin y
ou will better luck with the thinner stuff. The thicker skin
will help give better protection for those gear up landing though..
. </P>
<P>do not archive <BR><BR><BR>Ben Haas<BR>N801BH<BR>www.haaspo
werair.com<BR><BR>-- "Dave Ruddiman" <pacificpainting@
comcast.net> wrote:<BR>--> Zenith-List message 
;posted by: "Dave Ruddiman" <pacificpainting@comc
ast.net><BR><BR>Larry,<BR><BR>I was planning on u
sing .025 because that's what most of 
;the rest is. I'm <BR>not disputing your&n
bsp;suggestion but, why .020 instead of .0
25? Do you have any <BR>idea why the&
nbsp;thinner material on the belly where i
t seems like it would need <BR>the pr
otection?<BR><BR>Thanks,<BR><BR>Dave<BR><BR><BR><BR>----- Original&
nbsp;Message ----- <BR>From: "LarryMcFarland" <la
rry@macsmachine.com><BR>To: <zenith-list@matronics.com><BR
>Sent: Monday, February 05, 2007 5:14 PM<B
R>Subject: Re: Zenith-List: 801 Bottom Fuselage
Skin<BR><BR><BR>> --> Zenith-List message&nbs
p;posted by: LarryMcFarland <larry@macsmachine.com>
<BR>><BR>> Dave,<BR>> I'd take the .01
6 piece and lay it over a piece
of .020 (not .025) and use <BR>> i
t for a template. .016 is noisy 
;until you've got<BR>> lots of paint on
it.<BR>><BR>> Larry McFarland - 601HDS&n
bsp;at www.macsmachine.com<BR>> do not archive<BR
>><BR>> Dave Ruddiman wrote:<BR>>> I&nbs
p;know this has come up for some of&n
bsp;the other ZAC planes, but when I
took <BR>>> the bottom fuselage skin 
;for my 801 out of the box I dis
covered that it <BR>>> is .016. I&nb
sp;just assumed it would be .025. It
seems like it should be <BR>>> heavi
er given the kind of use the plane&nb
sp;was designed for. Any thoughts, <BR>&g
t;> anyone?<BR>>> Dave in Salem<BR>&g
t;<BR>><BR>><BR>><BR>><BR>><BR>><BR>> <BR><BR>
========================
sp; - The Zenith-List
bsp;many List utilities such as the Subscr
========================
========================
- NEW MATRONIC
now also available via the Web Forum
========================
============<BR></P>
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre></body></html>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Carb Heat on Rotax 912 ULS? |
Looks like SPAM, smells like SPAM...
Do not archive
_____
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gary Gower
Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2007 3:38 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Re: Carb Heat on Rotax 912 ULS?
_____
Looking for earth-friendly autos?
Browse
<http://autos.yahoo.com/green_center/;_ylc=X3oDMTE4MGw4Z2hlBF9TAzk3MTA3MDc2B
HNlYwNtYWlsdGFncwRzbGsDZ3JlZW5jZW50ZXI-> Top Cars by "Green Rating" at
Yahoo! Autos' Green Center.
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Decision on Carb Heat for Rotax 912 ULS!!!!!! |
Ken,
I've flown my 601 912 for 14 years and never had any icing indication.
No carb heat. This is a statement of fact, not a recommendation. I'm
in Toronto Canada.
Tailwinds.
Dave Austin 601HDS - 912, Spitfire Mk VIII
----- Original Message -----
From: Ken Arnold
To: Zenith List
Sent: Monday, February 05, 2007 8:20 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Decision on Carb Heat for Rotax 912 ULS!!!!!!
Listers,
Many thanks for all the good comments regarding Carb Heat. I have
discussed the issue with Lockwood and Zenith in Mexico. Here is summary
of discussion with Zenith: The cowling for the CH701 maintains a
relatively warm environment. If the Rotax airbox is not installed, NO
carb heat is required. So, my CH701 will be using the new cowling and
there will be no airbox. So, I will not install carb heat.
These comments are based on discussion with Sebastian Heintz at Zenith
today 2/6/2007. Sebastian indicates there are hundreds of Rotax 912s
that do not have carb heat. They are doing nicely. He also estimates
about 3 hp is lost by not using the airbox to draw in cold air.
To the best of my knowledge, I received no comments from Zenith owners
flying behind the 912 without carb heat.
The carb heat upgrade can be retrofitted at a later date. It is a
collar that fits on the carb and circulates cooling fluid. Fairly
simple install I'm told.
Again, many thanks for your interest and comments.
Ken Arnold
Pikeville, NC
CH701 QB in process
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: 801 Bottom Fuselage Skin |
Hi Dave,
For an 801 it's not such an issue, but weight seems the only thing
gained by adding the extra .005 on the bottom.
As you say, perhaps .025 would resist dinks better from tossed debris by
the tires. Better to just avoid using .016
for anything.
Larry
Dave Ruddiman wrote:
> <pacificpainting@comcast.net>
>
> Larry,
>
> I was planning on using .025 because that's what most of the rest is.
> I'm not disputing your suggestion but, why .020 instead of .025? Do
> you have any idea why the thinner material on the belly where it seems
> like it would need the protection?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dave
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "LarryMcFarland"
> <larry@macsmachine.com>
> To: <zenith-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Monday, February 05, 2007 5:14 PM
> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: 801 Bottom Fuselage Skin
>
>
>> <larry@macsmachine.com>
>>
>> Dave,
>> I'd take the .016 piece and lay it over a piece of .020 (not .025)
>> and use it for a template. .016 is noisy until you've got
>> lots of paint on it.
>>
>> Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
>> do not archive
>>
>> Dave Ruddiman wrote:
>>> I know this has come up for some of the other ZAC planes, but when I
>>> took the bottom fuselage skin for my 801 out of the box I discovered
>>> that it is .016. I just assumed it would be .025. It seems like it
>>> should be heavier given the kind of use the plane was designed for.
>>> Any thoughts, anyone?
>>> Dave in Salem
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Bing carb on Jab3300 |
We were warned about this problem at a class held by Pete Krotje of US Jabiru.
You want to keep the fuel pressure below 3 psi. The correct pump is a 40104 -
A/C spruce doesn't list it but they carry it.
You can also go to Carquest - they carry two versions under their own name but
made by Facet - I believe you want the Red Labeled version. It is the identical
pump.
Tim
--------
DO NOT ARCHIVE
______________
CFII
Champ L16A flying
Zodiac XL - Working on wings
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=93222#93222
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Bing carb on Jab3300 |
The Facet 40105 has been working fine on my XL/Jab3300 for over 200 hours.
The Bing
also has given me no problems and has been working smoothly up to 12,500 ft.
(max I
have cruised at to date)
For info, below are excerpts from my POH on the fuel system in my XL.
Tony Graziano
601XL; N493TG, 204 hrs
--------------------------------------------
B. FUEL SYSTEM
The engine is fitted with an altitude adjusting Bing Carburetor. The
throttle is controlled via a cable to the carburetor. The carburetor has a
choke for cold starting and is controlled via a cable to the choke. Fuel is
screened by a small finger strainers in the fuel tanks, a gascolator located
on the aircraft C/L below the cockpit before the rudder peddles and just
prior to the electric fuel pump, and filtered between the firewall and the
mechanical fuel pump. There is no priming system. Fuel travels from the
tanks to a fuel selector, to the gascolator, through a solid state
check -valved free flow electronic fuel pump, through a fuel flow sensor,
through the firewall, through a fuel filter, to the engine mechanical pump
and then to the carburetor where it is metered to the engine intake
manifolds. The Bing Carburetor has incorporated the Fuel Economy
Modification IAW Jabiru JSL002-1
3. FUEL SYSTEM
A. FUEL TANKS
B. FUEL SELECTOR
C. GASCOLATOR
D. FUEL PUMPS
E. APPROXIMATE FUEL BURN RATES at CRUISE
F. FUEL TANK DIPSTICK READINGS
A. FUEL TANKS
N493TG has four 12-gallon fuel tanks, two in each wing. The fuel
filler is on the outer portion of the tanks and the wing dihedral forces
fuel to the inner portion of the tank. Each tank has a VDO 10 - 180-ohm fuel
gauge float type sender installed in the inboard cell of the tanks. Each
tank also has a standard fuel drain on the aft rear section of the tank for
taking fuel samples and fuel draining. Each tank contains approximately 1/4
gallon of unusable fuel based on the position of the fuel pickups. The fuel
caps latch should face aft when installed to prevent airflow from unlatching
the cap in-flight. The O-rings of the latches should be lubricated
annually.
WARNING
Static electricity can cause a fire when fueling or de-fueling if proper
grounding procedures are not used.
B. FUEL SELECTOR
The fuel flows from each fuel tank to an ANDAIR P/N FS20F8-F, five-way
fuel selector on the center console. The selector can select either RIGHT
tank, LEFT tank, RIGHT AUX tank, LEFT AUX tank or OFF. When selecting a
fuel tank, ensure the selector is in the detent and a positive click is
felt.
WARNING
Avoid switching fuel tanks at low altitude or just prior to takeoff in the
event of a selector malfunction.
C. GASCOLATOR
After the fuel selector the fuel flows to the gascolater. The
gascolator has a fine screen for fuel filtering and a bowl to allow water to
settle. There is a quick drain on the bottom of the gascolator to allow
taking fuel samples during preflight. The gascolator is covered externally
by an aerodynamic shaped FOD guard to protect the gascolator from any
foreign objects that may be tossed up by the nose wheel or prop. This guard
permits access to fuel sampling the gascolator during preflight and can be
removed to allow removal of the gascolator bowl and screen filter during
inspections.
WARNING
Ensure the gascolator drain is fully closed after taking a fuel sample.
Failure to properly close the fuel drain can cause leakage causing fuel
starvation.
D. FUEL PUMPS
A FACET P/N 40105, solid state, checked valved, electronic fuel
pump is installed on the centerline of the cockpit floor just forward of the
gascolator. Another mechanical fuel pump is installed on the engine. Prior
to starting, the electronic fuel pump should be turned on for about 10
seconds and then turned off. The electronic fuel pump should be used for
take off and landing and be OFF during cruise.
--------
> Time: 10:08:03 PM PST US
> Subject: Zenith-List: Bing carb on Jab3300
> From: "chris Sinfield" <chris_sinfield@yahoo.com.au>
>
>
> I found this on the Yahoo Jab Engine site any one had similar problems as
> the fuel
> pump that was sent with my XL kit was the 40105
> Chris..
>
> frm the site.....
>
> first engine start went well except that i had fuel leaks from the bing
> carb. i have a facet 40105 electric fuel pump that really overpowered
> the needle valve controlled by the floats. this is the pump i understand
> is used by many jab owners. after a short engine run without the elec.
> pump i shut the engine down as the manual pump was also causing fuel to
> leak. leaks were coming out the vent for the fuel bowl.
> i spoke to bing and was told that these needle assemblies come with
> several spring stiffnesses. i had the weakest spring assembly. bing is
> sending me the medium stiffness spring. bing said the stiffest spring is
> too stiff and not offered any more. bing said a pulolator pressure
> regulator is commonly installed in the fuel line. bing also said they
> get a lot of calls for the same problem from a lot of 40105 owners.
> maybe i should be looking at a facet pump of around 2-2.5 lbs. i believe
> they are made and would be more desireable because these lower pressured
> pumps have no check valves. thus no possible valve to stick.
> does anyone have anything to add to this or offer any fuel pressure
> info?
> and also, jim of pacific jabiru was helpful and patient with my phone
> calls as all of this was going on during the first start attempt.
>
>
> [Question] [Question]
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=93139#93139
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Delay in Oil Cooler Duct - 701 Rotax Ring Mount |
Just wondering how many others have their 701 projects "on hold" while
waiting for Zenith/Zenair /? to manufacture and ship the fiberglass oil
cooler duct that goes with the new ring mount & cowling for the Rotax
912S. The new mounting/cowling was to be ready the first of November
2006 - I have received everything except the oil cooler duct (straps
onto the oil cooler and is fed outside air via "scat duct"). Refer to
page 9 of 13 in Section 4: Engine Installation, Oil Cooler and Oil Lines
in the New Rotax 912S Engine Installation Photo Assembly Guide.
Thanks,
Sam Hutcheson
Nearing completion on 701
Portions of project in the paint shop
Ready for ground testing
Do not archive.
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: 801 Bottom Fuselage Skin801 Bottom Fuselage Skin |
All, I wrote Zenith on this very subject. See the answer Attached
below.
Regards, Brad
> Zenith, I bought my kit in 2000. I am assembling the
> 'Rear Fuselage Lower skin -- 8F2-3A' which is 0.016 in thickness.
> This seems extremely thin for the purpose.
> Has there been an upgrade to thicker material on the latest revisions?
>
> I am concerned that the thin skin with few supports will oilcan. Any
> problems with this?
>
> If so, can I replace with .025 --or-- add 'L's to arrest the oil
> canning?
ANSWER FROM ZENITH:
Ref. 8F2-3A there is no change to the part, 6061-T6 material thickness
t=.016"
There would be no problem replacing the skin with t=.025"
If you are still concerned about oil canning than you could also add L
angles like on the side skins.
Nick Heintz
Zenith Aircraft Company
email: support@zenithair.com
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Bing carb on Jab3300 |
Actually the Car Quest pump has the blue label. The pump itself has a Facet
Label on it and PSI from 1.5 to 3.5.
Pete
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Juhl
Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2007 10:06 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Bing carb on Jab3300
We were warned about this problem at a class held by Pete Krotje of US
Jabiru. You want to keep the fuel pressure below 3 psi. The correct pump is
a 40104 - A/C spruce doesn't list it but they carry it.
You can also go to Carquest - they carry two versions under their own name
but made by Facet - I believe you want the Red Labeled version. It is the
identical pump.
Tim
--------
DO NOT ARCHIVE
______________
CFII
Champ L16A flying
Zodiac XL - Working on wings
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=93222#93222
Message 12
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|
Here is a press release I received that might be of interest. Is anyone
putting a Balistic Rcovery Chute on their 601's?
AMD INSTALLS FIRST BRS PARACHUTE IN ZODIAC 601XL
Eastman Georgia
February 01, 2007:
Aircraft Manufacturing & Development Co. (AMD) is pleased to announce the
first BRS (Ballistic Recovery Systems) parachute installation in a Zodiac
601XL - SLSA. The aircraft was certified on January 30th 2007 at the
production facilities in Eastman, Georgia.
"Flying the Zodiac is super fun. Its excellent maneuverability and
visibility are great features. Pilots and passengers are always looking at
increasing safety features and the BRS parachute provides that added
security." stated John Degonia, AMD's sales manager.
The Zodiac 601XL production Light-Sport Aircraft is based on the Zodiac CH
601 series design by aeronautical engineer Chris Heintz. The all-metal
Zodiac has been popular with kit aircraft enthusiasts since 1984 (with more
that 1,000 Zodiac aircraft flying worldwide), and since 2005 as an S-LSA
(factory produced Light-Sport Aircraft) manufactured in Eastman, Georgia by
AMD.
With the addition of the BRS parachute option, the Zodiac 601XL boasts more
available safety features than any other Light Sport Aircraft available on
the market today, including: AMSAFE SRS airbag seatbelts, lightning
protection (available on the IFR certified Zodiac XLi model), Tetra foam
seat cushions (absorbs "g" loads on a hard landing), super tough nose and
main gear system, classic all-metal construction, FAR33 certified aircraft
engine (Continental 0-200), Sensenich propeller and more.
For more information:
Aircraft Manufacturing & Development Co. (AMD): www.newplane.com
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: 801 Bottom Fuselage Skin801 Bottom Fuselage Skin |
Re: Zenith-List: 801 Bottom Fuselage Skin801 Bottom Fuselage SkinBrad,
So, what did you do?
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: Maynard, Brad
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2007 8:58 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: 801 Bottom Fuselage Skin801 Bottom Fuselage
Skin
All, I wrote Zenith on this very subject. See the answer
Attached below.
Regards, Brad
> Zenith, I bought my kit in 2000. I am assembling the
> 'Rear Fuselage Lower skin -- 8F2-3A' which is 0.016 in thickness.
> This seems extremely thin for the purpose.
> Has there been an upgrade to thicker material on the latest
revisions?
>
> I am concerned that the thin skin with few supports will oilcan. Any
> problems with this?
>
> If so, can I replace with .025 --or-- add 'L's to arrest the oil
> canning?
ANSWER FROM ZENITH:
Ref. 8F2-3A there is no change to the part, 6061-T6 material thickness
t=.016"
There would be no problem replacing the skin with t=.025"
If you are still concerned about oil canning than you could also add L
angles like on the side skins.
Nick Heintz
Zenith Aircraft Company
email: support@zenithair.com
Message 14
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| Subject: | Sheet metal brake |
Is anyone familiar with the "Central Machinery" brand of sheet metal brake sold
by Harbor Freight, part number 46508-1VGA? It is a 40" brake that looks solid
enough for aluminum sheet metal (advertises up to 16 gauge steel), and is only
$100.
I'm interested because I just started to scratch build, and I don't have a brake
yet. I will be building my own 8 ft brake when I need it, but this seems like
it would be very nice to have in the shop; handy, light, and maneuverable.
(and cheap)
I hope someone out there has at least tried it. I'm interested if it puts a radius
on the bend, and if not, if it's possible to modify it to put a radius on
it.
Ryan
Message 15
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>Is anyone putting a Balistic Rcovery Chute on their 601's?
Scott sure is:
www.cooknwithgas.com/BRS.html
-- Craig
Message 16
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| Subject: | Sheet metal brake |
The 30 inch brake from HF has worked well. I replaced the top steel piece
with a piece of MDF with an 1/8th inch radius on it and an angle of about
60-70 degrees to allow for spring-back on 90 degree bends.
www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=41311
I also bought a conventional box brake from Grizzly. I've tried a number of
tricks but haven't been able to make it put a nice 1/8 inch radius on my
bends. Some have recommended wrapping the tip of the upper blocks in a
couple layers of .016 but the radius that yielded was still too tight. Next
I'll try clamping a 1/4 inch rod along the edge as I bend.
-- Craig
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Sheet metal brake |
No info on that particular brake, but ANY brake you buy will need to have a
radius machined into it, or used with a 'bend wrapper'. The bend wrapper (or
whatever else you'd like to call it) is nothing more than a strip of .040 aluminum
bent on the brake, and left there. Just tape it to the top die/punch and
go on to bend your parts. The .040 stip essentially increases the bend radius
of the original punch. Depending on the existing radius, and the effectiveness
of your brake, you may have to use several strips to achieve the correct
radius.
This sounds like a half-@$$ed method, but it's the same method used in multi-millin
dollar production shops to achieve a non-standard radius. just use double
sided tape to hold the strip tot he punch.
If you were careful, you could probably achieve a satisfactory radius on the
stock brake parts using a belt sander. Just be ready to spend another $100
if you're not careful.
Is anyone familiar with the "Central Machinery" brand of sheet metal brake sold
by Harbor Freight, part number 46508-1VGA? It is a 40" brake that looks solid
enough for aluminum sheet metal (advertises up to 16 gauge steel), and is only
$100.
I'm interested because I just started to scratch build, and I don't have a brake
yet. I will be building my own 8 ft brake when I need it, but this seems like
it would be very nice to have in the shop; handy, light, and maneuverable.
(and cheap)
I hope someone out there has at least tried it. I'm interested if it puts a radius
on the bend, and if not, if it's possible to modify it to put a radius on
it.
Ryan
Message 18
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| Subject: | Sheet metal brake |
Remember, you're looking for a .125" radius on the brake. Two layers of .016"
material is still only slightly larger than a .032" radius. The thin .016
conforms too tightly to the original brake radius. You'll find that a couple
of strips of .040 will usually be just right. If nothing else, use three stips
(.040+.040+.040= 1/8" radius).
Hope that helps...
The 30 inch brake from HF has worked well. I replaced the top steel piece
with a piece of MDF with an 1/8th inch radius on it and an angle of about
60-70 degrees to allow for spring-back on 90 degree bends.
www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=41311
I also bought a conventional box brake from Grizzly. I've tried a number of
tricks but haven't been able to make it put a nice 1/8 inch radius on my
bends. Some have recommended wrapping the tip of the upper blocks in a
couple layers of .016 but the radius that yielded was still too tight. Next
I'll try clamping a 1/4 inch rod along the edge as I bend.
-- Craig
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Sheet metal brake |
Hi Ryan,
I haven't seen that particular model brake from Harbor Freight, but I
bought one of the smaller ones they sell. The price is quite low,
and the picture in the downloaded assembly manual makes it look
similar to the smaller ones.
It says it is limited to 90 degree bends. On the smaller one, I was
able to grind the stops so it would go farther and allow you to make
an actual 90 degree bend after the snap back. The hold-down bar
seems to be designed for no radius - just like the smaller model.
I started with one of the small ones (maybe 18") and played around
with it for a while. I wound up buying a 24" one from Grizzly which
required extensive modifications to work at all. However, the
Grizzly tool was much heavier and almost able to clamp an 18 inch
piece of aluminum well enough to actually make a good bend.
I tried a couple of different ways to get the 1/8" radius required
for most parts on our planes. I tried gluing a 1/4" round rod to a
flat piece of metal and putting it under the supplied hold down
bar. It didn't last long. The final winner was a piece of 1/4"
aluminum cut from an extrusion which already had the rounded edge
needed when it came from the store. This has worked well.
I don't think you will find the 4 foot brake from Harbor freight to
be very useful. On the other hand, the smaller ones which cost a lot
less (around $30) would make a great first brake for you to fool
around with and learn the ropes. After making a few test parts with
the Harbor Freight brake and learning how to form the 1/8" radius you
need you will be in a much better position to build your 8 or 12 foot
brake. You might also decide that the larger one is not worth the
trouble and use a local shop to do the long bends on proper hydraulic machines.
Good luck,
Paul
XL fuselage
At 11:36 AM 2/6/2007, you wrote:
>
>
>Is anyone familiar with the "Central Machinery" brand of sheet metal
>brake sold by Harbor Freight, part number 46508-1VGA? It is a 40"
>brake that looks solid enough for aluminum sheet metal (advertises
>up to 16 gauge steel), and is only $100.
>
>I'm interested because I just started to scratch build, and I don't
>have a brake yet. I will be building my own 8 ft brake when I need
>it, but this seems like it would be very nice to have in the shop;
>handy, light, and maneuverable. (and cheap)
>
>I hope someone out there has at least tried it. I'm interested if
>it puts a radius on the bend, and if not, if it's possible to modify
>it to put a radius on it.
>
>Ryan
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Balistic Chute |
Yes; count me in. I'm not ready yet, pplanning on being further down t
he road beofre starting on it. Got their drawings for the installation
, and was pretty impressed. The only thing I didn't care for was the e
sthetics of having the straps show, so I am planning to do a false sid
e skin to cover them, riveted on the bottom and held at the top and si
des with something like silicone caulking, that will tear off easily.
Also to cover the wretched contours where I screwed up. Not that I re
ally expect CH's design to come apart, more on the order of "just beca
use I can". =0A=0APaul Rodriguez=0A601XL/Corvair=0A=0A
=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A ----- Original Message ----- =0A Fr
om: Craig Payne<mailto:craig@craigandjean.com> =0A To: zenith-list
@matronics.com<mailto:zenith-list@matronics.com> =0A Sent: Tuesday
, February 06, 2007 1:51 PM=0A Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Balistic
ne" <craig@craigandjean.com<mailto:craig@craigandjean.com>>=0A
=0A >Is anyone putting a Balistic Rcovery Chute on their 601's?=0A
=0A Scott sure is:=0A=0A www.cooknwithgas.com/BRS.html<http
://www.cooknwithgas.com/BRS.html>=0A=0A -- Craig=0A=0A
=======================
=======================
=======================
=======================
=======================
=0A=0A=0A=0A
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Sheet metal brake |
Ryan,
You might want to take a look here for some good ideas:
My experience with the wrapping metal around the nose of the leaf brakes is, the
nose piece needs to be adjustable fore and aft. If there is no adjustment it
make it real hard to get bends to and over 90 degrees.
--------
Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
Corvair Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=93340#93340
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Sheet metal brake |
Ryan,
I have a similar Harbor Freight brake:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91012
This has come in very handy several times. I
placed a .040 cover over the upper clamp, and have no
radius issues. The math performed earlier is good for
math class, but in reality, the .040 is not going to
exactly follow the edge on the upper clamp unless you
beat it that way with a hammer. You obviously don't
plan to bend the spar with this brake. -For just
about anything else, it works great.
BTW, the brake I use at the CNC machine shop for
aviation STC'd equipment uses the same .040 sheet for
radius. It works...
VR/
Brandon Tucker
601 HDS / TD / Corvair
61 hours
Cheap talk?
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Sheet metal brake |
Ryan-
The Harbor Freight brakes are well worth the money, but to do any
serious work, you need something larger than 40". I personally have an 18"
for taking care of the little stuff. For bigger work, (Especially if you
intend to scratchbuild) check out the "Home Depot" brake in the archives or
on 601.org.
Of course, there are those of us that are still waiting for the plans
for a really neat 48" brake promised to us years ago by Homebuilder Helper.
Forgot all about that!
Oh Zodie..........
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ryan Vechinski" <brothapig@HOTMAIL.COM>
Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2007 2:36 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Sheet metal brake
>
>
> Is anyone familiar with the "Central Machinery" brand of sheet metal brake
> sold by Harbor Freight, part number 46508-1VGA? It is a 40" brake that
> looks solid enough for aluminum sheet metal (advertises up to 16 gauge
> steel), and is only $100.
>
> I'm interested because I just started to scratch build, and I don't have a
> brake yet. I will be building my own 8 ft brake when I need it, but this
> seems like it would be very nice to have in the shop; handy, light, and
> maneuverable. (and cheap)
>
> I hope someone out there has at least tried it. I'm interested if it puts
> a radius on the bend, and if not, if it's possible to modify it to put a
> radius on it.
>
> Ryan
>
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Sheet metal brake |
Could you remove this e-mail address from your list please? This is my
fourth request. Thank You.
----- Original Message -----
From: Administrator
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2007 2:36 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Sheet metal brake
No info on that particular brake, but ANY brake you buy will need
to have a radius machined into it, or used with a 'bend wrapper'. The
bend wrapper (or whatever else you'd like to call it) is nothing more
than a strip of .040 aluminum bent on the brake, and left there. Just
tape it to the top die/punch and go on to bend your parts. The .040
stip essentially increases the bend radius of the original punch.
Depending on the existing radius, and the effectiveness of your brake,
you may have to use several strips to achieve the correct radius.
This sounds like a half-@$$ed method, but it's the same method
used in multi-millin dollar production shops to achieve a non-standard
radius. just use double sided tape to hold the strip tot he punch.
If you were careful, you could probably achieve a satisfactory
radius on the stock brake parts using a belt sander. Just be ready to
spend another $100 if you're not careful.
Ryan Vechinski <brothapig@HOTMAIL.COM> wrote:
Is anyone familiar with the "Central Machinery" brand of sheet metal
brake sold by Harbor Freight, part number 46508-1VGA? It is a 40" brake
that looks solid enough for aluminum sheet metal (advertises up to 16
gauge steel), and is only $100.
I'm interested because I just started to scratch build, and I don't
have a brake yet. I will be building my own 8 ft brake when I need it,
but this seems like it would be very nice to have in the shop; handy,
light, and maneuverable. (and cheap)
I hope someone out there has at least tried it. I'm interested if it
puts a radius on the bend, and if not, if it's possible to modify it to
put a radius on
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