Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:22 AM - Re: Drilling wing spars (wade jones)
2. 07:31 AM - Re: Drilling wing spars (Bill Naumuk)
3. 07:35 AM - speed brakes (Jeff Small)
4. 07:38 AM - cable tension (Jeff Small)
5. 08:00 AM - Re: Longeron (LarryMcFarland)
6. 08:04 AM - HDS People-Longeron mystery solved (Bill Naumuk)
7. 08:11 AM - Re: Woulda's (Bill Naumuk)
8. 08:14 AM - Re: speed brakes (Bill Naumuk)
9. 09:44 AM - Re: Speed brakes (MaxNr@aol.com)
10. 09:55 AM - Re: speed brakes (Tim Juhl)
11. 01:28 PM - Re: Re: speed brakes (NYTerminat@aol.com)
12. 03:11 PM - landing gear 701 (Brian Bowen)
13. 03:23 PM - Control Cable Lengths (Thomas Makibbin)
14. 03:25 PM - Rear Former Fix (Bill Naumuk)
15. 04:32 PM - Re: Control Cable Lengths (Jaybannist@cs.com)
16. 07:00 PM - Re: Woulda's (Juan Vega)
17. 07:00 PM - Re: Rear Former Fix (Gary Boothe)
18. 07:02 PM - Re: control cabl tenshion (Juan Vega)
19. 10:36 PM - Re: Control Cable Lengths (xl)
20. 10:53 PM - Re: Control Cable Lengths (Afterfxllc@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Drilling wing spars |
Thanks to those that replied with suggestions to this post. I may get
enough nerve to try drilling these holes today.
Wade Jones South Texas
601XL plans building
Cont. 0200
----- Original Message -----
From: wade jones
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 2:11 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Drilling wing spars
Hello Group ,I am ready to drill the 5/16 holes in my center spar and
the wing spars on a 601XL .I have just bought a 5/16 reamer and a 9/32
drill bit .I have received some good advise from Dave Clay as he has
recently completed this task . Any additional advise or tips from fellow
scratch builders that may help me on this task would be greatly
appreciated . Thanks
Wade Jones South Texas
601XL plans building
Cont. 0200
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Drilling wing spars |
Wade-
Put your mind at ease- practice on scrap until you're comfortable
with the process.
do not archive
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: wade jones
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, February 11, 2007 8:19 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Drilling wing spars
Thanks to those that replied with suggestions to this post. I may get
enough nerve to try drilling these holes today.
Wade Jones South Texas
601XL plans building
Cont. 0200
----- Original Message -----
From: wade jones
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 2:11 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Drilling wing spars
Hello Group ,I am ready to drill the 5/16 holes in my center spar
and the wing spars on a 601XL .I have just bought a 5/16 reamer and a
9/32 drill bit .I have received some good advise from Dave Clay as he
has recently completed this task . Any additional advise or tips from
fellow scratch builders that may help me on this task would be greatly
appreciated . Thanks
Wade Jones South Texas
601XL plans building
Cont. 0200
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List">http://www.matron
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
Message 3
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I know the below was said in jest but some might believe it. Go back in
the archives, now so bloated that they are unusable, and you'll read of
a crash with a 601 caused by one of the wing lockers being unfastened
and coming up in flight after takeoff.
<Speed brake?! Are We Still talking about the CH601?
<Got me thinking.. could beef up the wing locker doors and see what kind
of
<hydraulics Harbor Freight has.
Message 4
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The Construction Manual (circa 1999) that came with my kit said 30
pounds.
In conversation with Nick he said 25 to 30 pounds. You should be able
to borrow a tensioner from a local airport mechanic for a six-pack.
Message 5
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Bill,
Not knowing exactly how complete your tail segment is yet, but I'd make
that decision when all the rudder and stab plates have been
positioned. Do consider the spacing of the rudder hinge plates and the
distance needed between pivot angles on your rudder. Check for
alignment and hinge distance and adjust by shim or shim plus deflection
accordingly.
Larry McFarland - 601HDS
Bill Naumuk wrote:
> HDS People-
> I'm at a loss here. My upper rear longeron tracks straight along
> the top edge and over the inboard rear former, but is a good 1/8" from
> contacting the top of the former closest the tail. Former and side
> skin dimensions are well within 2mm of print. Yes, everything's level.
> What do you think? Shim the top of the tail former, or bend the
> longeron down to make contact with the tail former?
> Bill Naumuk
> HDS Fuselage
> Townville, Pa
> *
>
>
> *
Message 6
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| Subject: | HDS People-Longeron mystery solved |
HDS People-
Matt, please don't edit this out, as it can help someone else down
the line.
Once again, the construction manual and the plans don't agree. F-4
in the construction manual calls for an overall length of 358mm for
6F2-3, while the print 6F2-3HD calls for an OAL of 360mm. Factor in 1mm
of the general =B1 2mm tolerance and you get the 1/8" I'm short.
What I've decided to do is to remove the upper flange of 6F2-3HD,
then fabricate a second 6F2-4 angle out of .032 using my 18" brake and
attach it in the correct position using the same 5 A5s used for the
original 6F2-4.
Thank God everything's still in clecos!
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
Message 7
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Brad-
Kit? Try building one from scratch! Took me 6 weeks and I loved every
minute of it. Not really, but the satisfaction of doing it yourself and
bonding with those who've gone before you is priceless.
do not archive
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brad DeMeo" <demeo@sonic.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 10, 2007 10:23 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Woulda's
>
>
> I think I woulda not ordered the landing light kit and tried to do
> something on the main gear for lights - primarily to avoid prop flicker.
> The landing light kit, for some reason, was very difficult for me and I
> spent more than too many hours on it. I'm sure it adds value, but I
> wouldn't do it again. I just started the canopy today...maybe I'll have
> another "woulda" in a week or so.
>
> Do not archive.
>
> Brad DeMeo
> 80% done.
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: speed brakes |
Jeff-
HF has a port-a-power ensemble listed for $199.95.
do not archive
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: Jeff Small
To: zenith-list
Sent: Sunday, February 11, 2007 10:35 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: speed brakes
I know the below was said in jest but some might believe it. Go back
in the archives, now so bloated that they are unusable, and you'll read
of a crash with a 601 caused by one of the wing lockers being unfastened
and coming up in flight after takeoff.
<Speed brake?! Are We Still talking about the CH601?
<Got me thinking.. could beef up the wing locker doors and see what
kind of
<hydraulics Harbor Freight has.
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Speed brakes |
Do not archive
Yes! I was kinding about Wing Locker Door Speed Brakes! (aka:W.L.D.S.B.)
First activation would jettison all dirty laundry and paper towels overboard. You
did buy the retro rockets tho.
Bob
Do not archive
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: speed brakes |
Actually those wing lockers remind me of the access panels on a P51 that are opened
to load belts of ammo for the 50 cal. Why not stick a fake 50 Browning
MG barrel in the leading edge of the wing and adorn the baggage lid with the appropriate
ammo-loading stencils? That might get the attention of the wandering
TSA type.
Tim
--------
DO NOT ARCHIVE
______________
CFII
Champ L16A flying
Zodiac XL - Jabiru 3300A
Working on wings
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=94305#94305
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: speed brakes |
And you could use the barrel as you pitot tube
In a message dated 2/11/2007 12:57:24 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
juhl@avci.net writes:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Tim Juhl" <juhl@avci.net>
Actually those wing lockers remind me of the access panels on a P51 that are
opened to load belts of ammo for the 50 cal. Why not stick a fake 50
Browning MG barrel in the leading edge of the wing and adorn the baggage lid with
the appropriate ammo-loading stencils? That might get the attention of the
wandering TSA type.
Tim
--------
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 12
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| Subject: | landing gear 701 |
builder#5390 plan built info on bending main landing gear spring
thanks
_________________________________________________________________
http://local.live.com/default.aspx?v=2&cp=43.658648~-79.383962&style=r&lvl=15&tilt=-90&dir=0&alt=-1000&scene=3702663&cid=7ABE80D1746919B4!1329
Message 13
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| Subject: | Control Cable Lengths |
I am installing my control cables for the elevator and rudder and I am
wondering what the best way to determine how long to make the cables? What
is the easiest way to figure where to cut the cable? Thanks.
Tom Makibbin
601XL
Message 14
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HDS People-
Attached is a shot of my rear former after adjustments. (It's fuzzy,
I know). Note the top flange is the same configuration as the bottom.
Also note that the longerons are right on track and the level bubble is
centered.
3 hours to put things right, but zero outlay. New builders might
want to set up after the side skins are on and make adjustments as
necessary.
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
Message 15
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| Subject: | Control Cable Lengths |
Tom,
As I recall, the amount of cable included in the controls kit was fairly liberal.
I made rough measurements of each application (four for ailerons, two for
rudder and two for elevator). I then measured the total length of the supplied
cable. I did a proportional calculation and cut the cable lengths according
to the proportions calculated to get manageable pieces of cable. I didn't cut
to a final length until I actually installed each length of cable.
Jay in Dallas
Do not archive
"Thomas Makibbin" <tmak@comcast.net> wrote:
>I am installing my control cables for the elevator and rudder and I am
>wondering what the best way to determine how long to make the cables? What
>is the easiest way to figure where to cut the cable? Thanks.
>
>
>
>Tom Makibbin
>
>601XL
>
>
Message 16
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I can honestly say that the light is the biggest pain in the @%#$!*&^% to put
in.
JUan
-----Original Message-----
>From: Brad DeMeo <demeo@sonic.net>
>Sent: Feb 10, 2007 10:23 PM
>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Zenith-List: Woulda's
>
>
>
>I think I woulda not ordered the landing light kit and tried to do
>something on the main gear for lights - primarily to avoid prop
>flicker. The landing light kit, for some reason, was very difficult
>for me and I spent more than too many hours on it. I'm sure it adds
>value, but I wouldn't do it again. I just started the canopy
>today...maybe I'll have another "woulda" in a week or so.
>
>Do not archive.
>
>Brad DeMeo
>80% done.
>
>
Message 17
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Thanks for the heads-up, Bill.
Gary Boothe
Cool, CA
601 HDSTD, WW Conversion 90% done,
Tail done, wings done, working on c-section
Do not archive
_____
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Naumuk
Sent: Sunday, February 11, 2007 3:25 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Rear Former Fix
HDS People-
Attached is a shot of my rear former after adjustments. (It's fuzzy, I
know). Note the top flange is the same configuration as the bottom. Also
note that the longerons are right on track and the level bubble is centered.
3 hours to put things right, but zero outlay. New builders might want to
set up after the side skins are on and make adjustments as necessary.
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: control cabl tenshion |
you can buy a sail boat one for 50 bucks.
Juan
-----Original Message-----
>From: LarryMcFarland <larry@macsmachine.com>
>Sent: Feb 10, 2007 4:23 PM
>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Zenith-List: control cabl tenshion
>
>
>
>Craig,
>The cable tensioner gage can be done freehand from the images. It will
>get tension close enough to
>satisfy what's needed.
>
>Sorry, I fixed the flip side of the image to "tension 4, see below.
>
>Larry
>
>C Smith wrote:
>>
>> Hey that's pretty slick, are there drawings for plans, or just the 2
>> pictures?
>>
>>
> you can build one and calibrate it to the range you need. See links.
>> http://www.macsmachine.com/images/tjh/cabletools/full/tension3.gif
>> http://www.macsmachine.com/images/tjh/cabletools/full/tension4.gif
>> http://www.macsmachine.com/images/tjh/cabletools/full/tenscalbrate.gif
>>
>> I used small garage door pulleys obtained from Lowe's, but any like them would
>> work.
>>
>> Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
>>
>>
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Control Cable Lengths |
Some of us have recommended:
install wire-cored clothesline or equivalent.
then replace the clotheslines, one by one, with cable.
Joe E
N633Z @ BFI
CH601XL, 426 hours
Zenith grin :)
On Sun, 11 Feb 2007, Thomas Makibbin wrote:
> I am installing my control cables for the elevator and rudder and I am
> wondering what the best way to determine how long to make the cables? What
> is the easiest way to figure where to cut the cable? Thanks.
> Tom Makibbin 601XL
> do not archive
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Control Cable Lengths |
I locked my control stick into position and made 1 end up then ran it thru
thr fush. then cut it alittle long then made up the cable with the turn buckle
half way adjusted.
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