Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:55 AM - fiberglass wingtip_position light (maureen cohen)
2. 04:40 AM - fiberglass wingtip fit (Robin Bellach)
3. 05:31 AM - Re: fiberglass wingtip_position light (Bryan Martin)
4. 06:17 AM - Re: I didn't believe it till I saw it (john300exc)
5. 06:31 AM - Building CH701 DVD (Ken Arnold)
6. 06:42 AM - Re: Not exactly aircraft (Ken and Cathy Buchmann)
7. 06:53 AM - Re: Re: I didn't believe it till I saw it (John Bolding)
8. 07:33 AM - Oil in air cooled engines (LRM)
9. 07:37 AM - Reply from the Corvair Authority (Bima, Martin)
10. 07:55 AM - Re: Oil in air cooled engines (Aaron Gustafson)
11. 07:58 AM - Re: Oil in air cooled engines (crvsecretary@aol.com)
12. 08:05 AM - Re: Oil in air cooled engines (David Mikesell)
13. 08:14 AM - Re: Oil for air-cooled engines (Zed Smith)
14. 09:30 AM - Re: Reply from the Corvair Authority (Afterfxllc@aol.com)
15. 09:51 AM - Re: Not exactly aircraft (C Smith)
16. 10:17 AM - Re: Reply from the Corvair Authority (Dan)
17. 10:33 AM - Re: Oil in air cooled engines (Bryan Martin)
18. 10:54 AM - Re: Oil in air cooled engines (Tim Juhl)
19. 01:23 PM - Re: fiberglass wingtip_position light (chris Sinfield)
20. 01:28 PM - Trim templates (chris Sinfield)
21. 01:47 PM - Re: fiberglass wingtip_position light (Michael Valentine)
22. 02:21 PM - Re: Trim templates (LarryMcFarland)
23. 02:31 PM - Re: fiberglass wingtip_position light (Juan Vega)
24. 02:35 PM - Re: Trim templates (Southern Reflections)
25. 03:22 PM - Re: Oil in air cooled engines (Noel Loveys)
26. 03:29 PM - Re: Oil in air cooled engines (Noel Loveys)
27. 04:12 PM - Re: fiberglass wingtip fit (Bill Naumuk)
28. 04:38 PM - Re: Trim templates (LarryMcFarland)
29. 06:11 PM - Re: fiberglass wingtip fit (Bill Naumuk)
30. 07:43 PM - Re: Re: Oil in air cooled engines (LRM)
Message 1
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| Subject: | fiberglass wingtip_position light |
Two questions for the list;
1) i have fitted the fiberglass wingtip as best i can, it seems to fit well
except for a 4mm gap between the fiberglass and the sheet metal at the
leading edge. I have tried heating the fiberglass with a hairdryer as
suggested by zenith, hell, i even tried (carefully) using a propane
torch....(shudder). I also tried replacing the A4 with an A5 to see if that
would narrow the gap, all to no avail. so my question is; do I leave it,
fill it in and paint or does anyone have any other suggestions.
2) any ideas how to ground the position light? I was simply going to run a
short piece of wire from the inside of the light socket (housing) via a ring
connector and an A4 rivet and connect it to the aiframe with a second piece
of wire. Any other suggestions?
Brad Cohen
maureenandbrad@hotmail.com
601XL, thinking about corvair power
5-6803
_________________________________________________________________
The average US Credit Score is 675. The cost to see yours: $0 by Experian.
http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=660600&bcd=EMAILFOOTERAVERAGE
Message 2
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| Subject: | fiberglass wingtip fit |
Re: first question -
I had about 3/8" gap at the front of wingtips. I used FiberFil Lightweight
Epoxy Filler from ACS to reshape the tips and eliminate all gap. Seems to be
a handy easily worked filler to help clean up many of the poor factory parts
fits.
Robin in AR
601XL Zen-Vair, N601ZV reserved
----- Original Message -----
From: "maureen cohen" <maureenandbrad@HOTMAIL.COM>
Sent: Friday, February 16, 2007 5:54 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: fiberglass wingtip_position light
> <maureenandbrad@hotmail.com>
>
> Two questions for the list;
> 1) i have fitted the fiberglass wingtip as best i can, it seems to fit
> well except for a 4mm gap between the fiberglass and the sheet metal at
> the leading edge. I have tried heating the fiberglass with a hairdryer as
> suggested by zenith, hell, i even tried (carefully) using a propane
> torch....(shudder). I also tried replacing the A4 with an A5 to see if
> that would narrow the gap, all to no avail. so my question is; do I leave
> it, fill it in and paint or does anyone have any other suggestions.
>
> 2) any ideas how to ground the position light? I was simply going to run a
> short piece of wire from the inside of the light socket (housing) via a
> ring connector and an A4 rivet and connect it to the aiframe with a second
> piece of wire. Any other suggestions?
>
> Brad Cohen
> maureenandbrad@hotmail.com
> 601XL, thinking about corvair power
> 5-6803
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: fiberglass wingtip_position light |
2) That idea will work OK. Make sure you sand off the point where
your ground wire will attach to the airframe (to remove any oxide
coating) and use an anti-oxidation compound on this termination. A
product called "No-Ox" is available for use on aluminum to copper
electrical connections. Anti-sieze might work as well.
> <maureenandbrad@hotmail.com>
>
> 2) any ideas how to ground the position light? I was simply going
> to run a short piece of wire from the inside of the light socket
> (housing) via a ring connector and an A4 rivet and connect it to
> the aiframe with a second piece of wire. Any other suggestions?
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: I didn't believe it till I saw it |
I hate for my first post on this forum to be negative, but the roll demonstrated
on the You Tube video wasnt much of a roll. The aircraft nose is pointed down
as the plane is inverted and he finishes the roll about 90 degrees off his initial
heading. I also wonder how many Gs he pulled to get the nose level at the
end of his roll. It is hard to estimate his altitude, but how many mistakes
high he was flying? The 701 is a tough little plane but the wing is probably
not the best for inverted flight. It takes a significant push on the stick in
a Decathlon or Pitts to keep the nose up while inverted with their symmetric wing,
must take a massive push with the 701. Sometimes Dont try this at home actually
means, DONT TRY THIS AT HOME!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p-491#95491
Message 5
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| Subject: | Building CH701 DVD |
Listers,
I just finished watching the latest DVD "Forward Fuselage" from
HomebuiltHELP.com. It continues their tradition for professional work.
I highly recommend anyone owning, building or thinking of building a 701
consider buying it. Jon Croke's presentation is excellent. He points
out the areas to leave for later. This alone will save the builder many
hours of redoing or even worse, scrapping parts.
Regards,
Ken Arnold
Pikeville, NC
Building QBK CH701 w/912 ULS
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Not exactly aircraft |
Dear Folks:
As a member of the optically impaired and also a product of the "GREAT
DEPRESSION" let me offer a new solution to seeing in the cockpit! A
visit to the nearest
Walgreen Pharmacy will provide a set of bifocal stick on lenses that
will convert your favorite pair of cool sunglasses to everything you
need at a price of approximately Fifteen dollars ($15.00) or a pair of
"old guy " sunglasses to wear over those expensive prescription
spectacles for about the same expense or less. Just my $.02 worth and pi
are square <;-)
Regards,
Ken
It's to cold to fly here in the Great State of Misery.
MISSOURI
Do not archive
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: I didn't believe it till I saw it |
Interesting video, the roll and loop were fun to watch but what was
VERY interesting to me was the impression that this aircraft has a
longer wing (the "European" version I've been told).
I ask every few months in case a new member has some info.
Does anyone have any information on the construction of the longer
wing??
I have been told (by someone that has looked at one carefully)that a
simple increase in span OUTBOARD the struts was done with NO change to
the web,caps,skins, ribs ect.,just the addition of one extra bay.
Can anyone add to that info, or throw cold water on it?
LOW&SLOW John Bolding
Message 8
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| Subject: | Oil in air cooled engines |
The other day I was talking to a friend of mine and he stated that you
could ONLY use NON-detergent oil in air-cooled aircraft engines such as
a Lycoming. My immediate reaction was "why?". He couldn't answer me
and I have yet to find anyone who can. I sorta think it one of those
"because we always done it that way" answers. If I was to get one,
which I'm not going to do, the first thing I would have done was put
synthetic oil in it. I might have been screwing up. So if anyone can
give me an answer, I might sleep tonight.
Larry, www.SkyHawg.com, N1345L
Message 9
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| Subject: | Reply from the Corvair Authority |
For all those that still have doubts about William, please see his
web-site for the most recent post. He explains the situation with the
build-for-profit customer, and the recent happannings in the hanger.
Martin Bima
Winnipeg CANADA
StolVair 701
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Oil in air cooled engines |
I worked for a Ford dealer in the 90s. Ford has used the same axel in
the Crown Vic type cars for almost ever. In the mid 90s, one year they
changed to synthetic lube in the differentials, no other change. All of
a sudden they had lots of trouble with differential bearings and
sometimes in trying to remove the bearings for replacement, the case was
ruined because the bearings were frozen (rusted) in so bad that they
could not be removed. Seams that pure synthetic oil has no coating
action to prevent rust when not in use. MY FIRSTHAND TWO BIT
EXPERIENCE. do not archive
Aaron Gustafson
>>> the first thing I would have done was put synthetic oil in it. I
might have been screwing up. So if anyone can give me an answer, I
might sleep tonight.<<<
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Oil in air cooled engines |
Hello Larry:
I agree that the only good reason for the response is "we've always done it that
way", especially in light of the fact that the "Lycosaurus" is such ancient
technology non-detergent oil just MIGHT be the best choice !!
However, forward-thinking homebuilders have choices. Your choice of an H-D is
a great example: H-D chose to improve thier design with modern materials, efficient
manufacturing methods, and performance innovations over the years, and Lycoming
chose not to. So, to compliment these changes, I only use semi-synthetic
motorcycle oil in MY Evo-powered TourGlide and not the SAE 60 straight-weight
as recommended for the Knucklehead.
I am thinking VERY strongly in installing a Twin-Cam in my 601XL - I just hope
the engine proves itself in homebuilts. You are an inspiration to us that are
not quite there yet.
Thanks for all you do.
Regards,
Tracy Smith
601XL
N458XL (Reserved)
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: lrm@skyhawg.com
Sent: Fri, 16 Feb 2007 10:23 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Oil in air cooled engines
The other day I was talking to a friend of mine and he stated that you could ONLY
use NON-detergent oil in air-cooled aircraft engines such as a Lycoming. My
immediate reaction was "why?". He couldn't answer me and I have yet to find
anyone who can. I sorta think it one of those "because we always done it that
way" answers. If I was to get one, which I'm not going to do, the first thing
I would have done was put synthetic oil in it. I might have been screwing
up. So if anyone can give me an answer, I might sleep tonight.
Larry, www.SkyHawg.com, N1345L
________________________________________________________________________
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Oil in air cooled engines |
Well we have several cetified aircooled Cont. and we only run
non-detergent oil during the break in on a new or rebuilt engine. Once
oil consumption has stopped showing all parts seated then we switch to
detergent oil.
David Mikesell
23597 N. Hwy 99
Acampo, CA 95220
209-224-4485
skyguynca@skyguynca.com
www.skyguynca.com
----- Original Message -----
From: LRM
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, February 16, 2007 7:23 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Oil in air cooled engines
The other day I was talking to a friend of mine and he stated that you
could ONLY use NON-detergent oil in air-cooled aircraft engines such as
a Lycoming. My immediate reaction was "why?". He couldn't answer me
and I have yet to find anyone who can. I sorta think it one of those
"because we always done it that way" answers. If I was to get one,
which I'm not going to do, the first thing I would have done was put
synthetic oil in it. I might have been screwing up. So if anyone can
give me an answer, I might sleep tonight.
Larry, www.SkyHawg.com, N1345L
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Oil for air-cooled engines |
do not archive
Not to start a month-long discussion, rather as info:
See the info at mobil1.com (or variation thereof).
Mobil makes a version dubbed Mobil 1 V-Twin which is intended for air-cooled 4-cycle
engines.
It is stated to contain proper lube properties for both the engine and gearbox.
Draw your own conclusions.
Apparently it is aimed at the Hog market.
Regards to all,
Zed
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Reply from the Corvair Authority |
For all those that still have doubts about William, please see his
web-site for the most recent post. He explains the situation with the
build-for-profit customer, and the recent happenings in the hanger.
Martin Bima
Winnipeg CANADA
StolVair 701
Yup he is one smooth talker. The one thing that he omitted from his little
cry baby explanation is the fact that he also lied to the person that is buying
the airplane after telling him he would like to keep a good relationship
with him. The man never once said he did anything wrong but there are people
out there that will follow some right off a cliff I guess. As for my pro
builder status, I am simply helping finish a project I never had intended to sell.
I have put my other 601 on barnstormers but after meeting a guy that can't
build it his self he asked me to help him finish his also and I said yes I
would. I enjoy building and have been building one thing or another for the past
5 years. I am going to scratch build MY airplane along side the one I just
sold because I don't have the money to just out right build one to completion
for just me. And I dam sure don't have the money to send WW 5,000 dollars and
just wait for him to decide I need my parts now. I have made a lot of friends
in aviation and those that know me know I would bend over backwards to help
someone so what WW wrote about me doesn't bother me it really sounded like a
lot of excuses and non of it his fault. But I would ask you this... is there
anyone else out there that asks for 100% of your money to buy a product and
doesn't give you a delivery date? And sometimes never delivers the parts at
all?
I think if he truly is re vamping his way of doing business he should
require a 25% deposit and the balance upon shipping. That will show me he truly
cares about the low budget builder that doesn't have tons of money to keep WW in
business. I call it building yesterdays parts with today's money. Sooner or
later it catches up.
He also told me with regards to the nose bowl that he has no idea when the
guy that was going to make them will get to them.... but he will gladly except
your money even when he knows he can't deliver them and has no idea when he
can. As for us excepting a one piece instead of a 2 piece. After William told
me he had no idea when or even if he could get the new ones what would you
have done? It doesn't take a lot of work to cut it and make it a 2 piece bowl.
Message 15
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| Subject: | Not exactly aircraft |
My wife is an optician, and I wish she was dispensing in that shop!
All kidding aside, the photo-grey process comes under many trade names, some
cost more than others. Frames depending on the maker and construction will
vary in price as well. The prescription of the lens may complicate the
fabrication to some degree and price will vary. Now from just a "I got this
quote for eyeglasses" and making judgments about comparison shopping without
all of the details of frame, lens composition, prescription and so-forth is
an exercise in comparing apples to whatever. In Macy's they have frames on
the shelves over $400 without the lenses. I'm sure if I asked my wife for
some top prices, she could come up with higher numbers than that.
Now, if the prescription calls for a special lens with a drastic correction,
and you have top of the line designer name frames with flex-on or titanium,
a progressive no-line bifocal process, antireflective coatings, etc. that
quote may not be so far fetched. If you have a common low correction simple
line bifocal, no name plastic frames and Billy-bobs photo-grey, then go shop
your prescription. Make sure you compare apples to apples and know what they
are totaling up on the ticket for add-ons. Take a close look at the cost of
the frame by itself. Does it's construction warrant the price? How about
your lenses, are there add-ons in addition to the transitions(transitions is
a trade name process and costs more) like coating, a high refractive
composition (usually recommended with extreme corrections to keep weight
down) and others. Read the quote completely, if there are items included you
didn't ask for, have those things explained to you or removed from the lab
order and get the price under control. There are shops that will take you
for a ride, especially small independent practices or practices in high rent
real estate.
My pilot glasses are the Scheyden flip-ups. the sun lens is a separate piece
hinged to the frame.
http://www.scheyden.com/lo/aviation.html
I like the fact that I can instantly go from normal to dark in a touch of
the finger. They are very well made, but not cheap.
I have a progressive bifocal now, but next prescription exam I will switch
to a line bifocal, because the progressives have such a narrow "near"
optical zone, you are forced to turn your head and look directly at whatever
you need to see. Not so convenient in the cockpit.
Craig Smith
_____
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Trainnut01@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2007 3:10 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Not exactly aircraft
Hey Gang
Has any one had any experience using "Transitions" eyeglass lenses in the
cockpit? I almost bought a pair today but was told that they react to
ultraviolet light and that the plexiglass canopy would screen out the UV and
prevent the lenses from darkening. Thought someone on the list might know. I
don't want to spend $750.00 on an experiment.
Carroll Jernigan
601XL Wings (still)
do not archive
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Reply from the Corvair Authority |
so what WW wrote about me doesn't bother me it really sounded like a lot
of excuses and non of it his fault.
Does this sound familliar? Could we please get back to building
airplanes. Dan.
----- Original Message -----
From: Afterfxllc@aol.com
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, February 16, 2007 9:29 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Reply from the Corvair Authority
For all those that still have doubts about William, please see his
web-site for the most recent post. He explains the situation with the
build-for-profit customer, and the recent happenings in the hanger.
Martin Bima
Winnipeg CANADA
StolVair 701
Yup he is one smooth talker. The one thing that he omitted from his
little cry baby explanation is the fact that he also lied to the person
that is buying the airplane after telling him he would like to keep a
good relationship with him. The man never once said he did anything
wrong but there are people out there that will follow some right off a
cliff I guess. As for my pro builder status, I am simply helping finish
a project I never had intended to sell. I have put my other 601 on
barnstormers but after meeting a guy that can't build it his self he
asked me to help him finish his also and I said yes I would. I enjoy
building and have been building one thing or another for the past 5
years. I am going to scratch build MY airplane along side the one I just
sold because I don't have the money to just out right build one to
completion for just me. And I dam sure don't have the money to send WW
5,000 dollars and just wait for him to decide I need my parts now. I
have made a lot of friends in aviation and those that know me know I
would bend over backwards to help someone so what WW wrote about me
doesn't bother me it really sounded like a lot of excuses and non of it
his fault. But I would ask you this... is there anyone else out there
that asks for 100% of your money to buy a product and doesn't give you a
delivery date? And sometimes never delivers the parts at all?
I think if he truly is re vamping his way of doing business he should
require a 25% deposit and the balance upon shipping. That will show me
he truly cares about the low budget builder that doesn't have tons of
money to keep WW in business. I call it building yesterdays parts with
today's money. Sooner or later it catches up.
He also told me with regards to the nose bowl that he has no idea when
the guy that was going to make them will get to them.... but he will
gladly except your money even when he knows he can't deliver them and
has no idea when he can. As for us excepting a one piece instead of a 2
piece. After William told me he had no idea when or even if he could get
the new ones what would you have done? It doesn't take a lot of work to
cut it and make it a 2 piece bowl.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
2/16/2007 2:25 PM
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Oil in air cooled engines |
Aircraft engines generally use an ashless dispersant engine oil
rather than a detergent oil. The operating conditions of an air-
cooled aircraft engine are very different a water-cooled engine.
Here's some articles I found on the web that have some more information:
http://www.swaviator.com/html/issueja02/Hangar7802.html
http://www.castrol.com/castrol/faq.do?
categoryId=9001946&contentId=7005219¤tPage=2
On Feb 16, 2007, at 10:23 AM, LRM wrote:
> The other day I was talking to a friend of mine and he stated that
> you could ONLY use NON-detergent oil in air-cooled aircraft engines
> such as a Lycoming.
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
do not archive.
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Oil in air cooled engines |
Aircooled aircraft engines are not the same as the engines in your Ford or Harley.
Most people choose straight mineral oil for break-in followed by ashless dispersant
oil once oil consumption stabilizes. The use of 100% synthetic oil has
proven less than successful in aircraft applications inasmuch as it fails to properly
deal with the combustion byproducts that enter the oil. Your multigrade
aviation oils are typically a semi-synthetic. The better oils have additives
that are designed to inhibit corrosion and reduce wear. The former is especially
important in engines that are not run frequently.
We had a guy at our local airport ruin his engine by running el-cheapo automotive
oil in it. He had an engine worth $10k or better and complained about putting
$4 /qt aviation oil in it when he could get auto oil at K-Mart for a buck
a quart. When it started showing metal at 200 hours he found that his cost
savings was an illusion.
Tim
--------
DO NOT ARCHIVE
______________
CFII
Champ L16A flying
Zodiac XL - Jabiru 3300A
Working on wings
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p-554#95554
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: fiberglass wingtip_position light |
With the earth I took an each way bet, and for the cost and weight of an extra
wire I ran a seperate earth wire for my strabe / nav lights back to the fuse..
I can always use it as a power wire later If I ever need an extra one.
Chris
Read this topic online here:
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OK guys and girls
Iam not the first to do the XL seats and side panels so I started looking out and
searching the web for the drawings. I cant find any template demensions.. Hey
with all this talent I would have thought there would have been some. this
is a kit so everyones should be about the same???
Any one know of any templates I can view. download, word, PDF, ect and give to
my motor trimmer
..
Chris
XL Sydney Australia
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| Subject: | Re: fiberglass wingtip_position light |
I don't think you need to ground the nav light separately. The strobe power
supply obviously needs to be grounded. But, I believe that one of the wires
running from the light unit back to the power supply grounds everything in
the light housing. At least, my lights have worked on the table and all I
have grounded is the power supply.
For the electrically gifted, am I wrong on this one?
Michael in NH
On 2/16/07, maureen cohen <maureenandbrad@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> maureenandbrad@hotmail.com>
>
> 2) any ideas how to ground the position light? I was simply going to run a
> short piece of wire from the inside of the light socket (housing) via a
> ring
> connector and an A4 rivet and connect it to the aiframe with a second
> piece
> of wire. Any other suggestions?
>
> Brad Cohen
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Trim templates |
Chris,
Seats are pretty much same for the 601s. If you want to do separate
removable seats and backs, my web page "seats"
shows a method for making them from scratch. You can then take the
shaped foam to an upholsterer.
see link,
http://www.macsmachine.com/html/seatupholstery.htm
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/completion/full/601ezfrontright.gif
Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
chris Sinfield wrote:
>
> OK guys and girls
> Iam not the first to do the XL seats and side panels so I started looking out
and searching the web for the drawings. I cant find any template demensions..
Hey with all this talent I would have thought there would have been some. this
is a kit so everyones should be about the same???
>
> Any one know of any templates I can view. download, word, PDF, ect and give
to my motor trimmer
>
> ..
> Chris
> XL Sydney Australia
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p-574#95574
>
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: fiberglass wingtip_position light |
if you look AT THE LIGHT HOUSING THAT IS TO BE ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE WING HOLDING
THE LENSE, THERE SHOULD BE A LITTLE WIRE, VISUALLY TOUCHING THE METAL OF THE
HOUSING, ITS DIFFERENT WITH EACH MANUFACTURER.
JUAN
-----Original Message-----
>From: Michael Valentine <mgvalentine@gmail.com>
>Sent: Feb 16, 2007 4:46 PM
>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Zenith-List: fiberglass wingtip_position light
>
>I don't think you need to ground the nav light separately. The strobe power
>supply obviously needs to be grounded. But, I believe that one of the wires
>running from the light unit back to the power supply grounds everything in
>the light housing. At least, my lights have worked on the table and all I
>have grounded is the power supply.
>
>For the electrically gifted, am I wrong on this one?
>
>Michael in NH
>
>
>On 2/16/07, maureen cohen <maureenandbrad@hotmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> maureenandbrad@hotmail.com>
>>
>> 2) any ideas how to ground the position light? I was simply going to run a
>> short piece of wire from the inside of the light socket (housing) via a
>> ring
>> connector and an A4 rivet and connect it to the aiframe with a second
>> piece
>> of wire. Any other suggestions?
>>
>> Brad Cohen
>>
>>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Trim templates |
Larry, did you get my E mail I sent to you last night ? Joe G N101HD
----- Original Message -----
From: "LarryMcFarland" <larry@macsmachine.com>
Sent: Friday, February 16, 2007 5:20 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Trim templates
>
> Chris,
> Seats are pretty much same for the 601s. If you want to do separate
> removable seats and backs, my web page "seats"
> shows a method for making them from scratch. You can then take the shaped
> foam to an upholsterer. see link,
> http://www.macsmachine.com/html/seatupholstery.htm
> http://www.macsmachine.com/images/completion/full/601ezfrontright.gif
>
> Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
>
> chris Sinfield wrote:
>> <chris_sinfield@yahoo.com.au>
>>
>> OK guys and girls
>> Iam not the first to do the XL seats and side panels so I started looking
>> out and searching the web for the drawings. I cant find any template
>> demensions.. Hey with all this talent I would have thought there would
>> have been some. this is a kit so everyones should be about the same???
>>
>> Any one know of any templates I can view. download, word, PDF, ect and
>> give to my motor trimmer
>>
>> ..
>> Chris XL Sydney Australia
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p-574#95574
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Oil in air cooled engines |
So true:
Synthetic oil is great in engines that are used for long periods of time
everyday. For everything else, including differentials mineral lube.
If
you aren't flying a couple of hours every day don't even consider
Synthetic
oils.
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Aaron
Gustafson
Sent: Friday, February 16, 2007 12:24 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Oil in air cooled engines
I worked for a Ford dealer in the 90s. Ford has used the same axel in
the
Crown Vic type cars for almost ever. In the mid 90s, one year they
changed
to synthetic lube in the differentials, no other change. All of a sudden
they had lots of trouble with differential bearings and sometimes in
trying
to remove the bearings for replacement, the case was ruined because the
bearings were frozen (rusted) in so bad that they could not be removed.
Seams that pure synthetic oil has no coating action to prevent rust when
not
in use. MY FIRSTHAND TWO BIT EXPERIENCE. do not archive
Aaron Gustafson
>>> the first thing I would have done was put synthetic oil in it. I
might
have been screwing up. So if anyone can give me an answer, I might
sleep
tonight.<<<
Checked by PC Tools AntiVirus (3.1.0.10 - 9.061.007).
http://www.pctools.com/anti-virus/
Message 26
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| Subject: | Oil in air cooled engines |
Pure mineral oil should be used in Lycoming for break in. I think first
50
hr. but could be 25 hr. I need to check my manuals.
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bryan
Martin
Sent: Friday, February 16, 2007 2:56 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Oil in air cooled engines
Aircraft engines generally use an ashless dispersant engine oil rather
than
a detergent oil. The operating conditions of an air-cooled aircraft
engine
are very different a water-cooled engine.
Here's some articles I found on the web that have some more information:
http://www.swaviator.com/html/issueja02/Hangar7802.html
http://www.castrol.com/castrol/faq.do?categoryId=9001946
<http://www.castrol.com/castrol/faq.do?categoryId=9001946&contentId=7
005219&
currentPage=2> &contentId=7005219¤tPage=2
On Feb 16, 2007, at 10:23 AM, LRM wrote:
The other day I was talking to a friend of mine and he stated that you
could
ONLY use NON-detergent oil in air-cooled aircraft engines such as a
Lycoming.
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
do not archive.
Checked by PC Tools AntiVirus (3.1.0.10 - 9.061.007).
http://www.pctools.com/anti-virus/
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: fiberglass wingtip fit |
All-
For God's sake, I thought this was over with the XL-3/8" of putty is not
acceptable!! Check the archives- this is one subject that HAS been flogged
to death.
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robin Bellach" <601zv@ritternet.com>
Sent: Friday, February 16, 2007 7:39 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: fiberglass wingtip fit
>
> Re: first question -
> I had about 3/8" gap at the front of wingtips. I used FiberFil Lightweight
> Epoxy Filler from ACS to reshape the tips and eliminate all gap. Seems to
> be a handy easily worked filler to help clean up many of the poor factory
> parts fits.
>
> Robin in AR
> 601XL Zen-Vair, N601ZV reserved
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "maureen cohen" <maureenandbrad@HOTMAIL.COM>
> To: <zenith-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Friday, February 16, 2007 5:54 AM
> Subject: Zenith-List: fiberglass wingtip_position light
>
>
>> <maureenandbrad@hotmail.com>
>>
>> Two questions for the list;
>> 1) i have fitted the fiberglass wingtip as best i can, it seems to fit
>> well except for a 4mm gap between the fiberglass and the sheet metal at
>> the leading edge. I have tried heating the fiberglass with a hairdryer as
>> suggested by zenith, hell, i even tried (carefully) using a propane
>> torch....(shudder). I also tried replacing the A4 with an A5 to see if
>> that would narrow the gap, all to no avail. so my question is; do I leave
>> it, fill it in and paint or does anyone have any other suggestions.
>>
>> 2) any ideas how to ground the position light? I was simply going to run
>> a short piece of wire from the inside of the light socket (housing) via a
>> ring connector and an A4 rivet and connect it to the aiframe with a
>> second piece of wire. Any other suggestions?
>>
>> Brad Cohen
>> maureenandbrad@hotmail.com
>> 601XL, thinking about corvair power
>> 5-6803
>
>
>
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Trim templates |
Joe,
The message was not received. Please send it again as it may have been
lost in opening.
Larry
do not archive
Southern Reflections wrote:
> <purplemoon99@bellsouth.net>
>
> Larry, did you get my E mail I sent to you last night ? Joe G N101HD
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: fiberglass wingtip fit |
To be more specific, +/-2mm = +/-.0792. 3/8"= .375. It's your plane, but I
rest my case.
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk@alltel.net>
Sent: Friday, February 16, 2007 7:12 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: fiberglass wingtip fit
>
> All-
> For God's sake, I thought this was over with the XL-3/8" of putty is
> not acceptable!! Check the archives- this is one subject that HAS been
> flogged to death.
>
> Bill Naumuk
> HDS Fuselage
> Townville, Pa
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Robin Bellach" <601zv@ritternet.com>
> To: <zenith-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Friday, February 16, 2007 7:39 AM
> Subject: Zenith-List: fiberglass wingtip fit
>
>
>>
>> Re: first question -
>> I had about 3/8" gap at the front of wingtips. I used FiberFil
>> Lightweight Epoxy Filler from ACS to reshape the tips and eliminate all
>> gap. Seems to be a handy easily worked filler to help clean up many of
>> the poor factory parts fits.
>>
>> Robin in AR
>> 601XL Zen-Vair, N601ZV reserved
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "maureen cohen" <maureenandbrad@HOTMAIL.COM>
>> To: <zenith-list@matronics.com>
>> Sent: Friday, February 16, 2007 5:54 AM
>> Subject: Zenith-List: fiberglass wingtip_position light
>>
>>
>>> <maureenandbrad@hotmail.com>
>>>
>>> Two questions for the list;
>>> 1) i have fitted the fiberglass wingtip as best i can, it seems to fit
>>> well except for a 4mm gap between the fiberglass and the sheet metal at
>>> the leading edge. I have tried heating the fiberglass with a hairdryer
>>> as suggested by zenith, hell, i even tried (carefully) using a propane
>>> torch....(shudder). I also tried replacing the A4 with an A5 to see if
>>> that would narrow the gap, all to no avail. so my question is; do I
>>> leave it, fill it in and paint or does anyone have any other
>>> suggestions.
>>>
>>> 2) any ideas how to ground the position light? I was simply going to run
>>> a short piece of wire from the inside of the light socket (housing) via
>>> a ring connector and an A4 rivet and connect it to the aiframe with a
>>> second piece of wire. Any other suggestions?
>>>
>>> Brad Cohen
>>> maureenandbrad@hotmail.com
>>> 601XL, thinking about corvair power
>>> 5-6803
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Oil in air cooled engines |
Boy I'll tell you, I think it boils down to personal likes and dislikes.
Except it is a fact that one should use a non-synthetic oil for the break in
period. The reason is simple, regular oil is not as friction proof as
synthetic so the engine's rings will seat quicker. My RevTech owner's
manual says to use a regular 10/30 for the first 10 hours and then switch to
their (naturally) synthetic oil. It's been my experience that engines will
still break in with synthetic oil, it just takes longer. I put Mobil1 in my
Harley and Subaru's from the get go. My last Subaru powered gyro now has
800+ hours and running strong. I do agree to use a very good oil whatever
the brand and stay away from K-Mart specials.
.
An added note, I saw in my Harley service manual, I don't have the exact
words but it said that in the event you didn't have Harley oil you should
make sure whatever oil you use should be rated for diesel engines. I will
try and find the exact paragraph and post it if anyone is interested. The
only reason I can think of is that Harley's run a lot hotter than other
engines. The book says the operating temp is 240 degrees. The Harley shop
told me 250 is not unusual.
Larry N1345L, www.skyhawg.com.
PS, For those who might be interested in non-airplane stuff I have a few new
pictures of my GroundHawg on my site, it is www.skyhawg.com/sam4.html.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Juhl" <juhl@avci.net>
Sent: Friday, February 16, 2007 12:53 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Oil in air cooled engines
>
> Aircooled aircraft engines are not the same as the engines in your Ford or
> Harley.
>
> Most people choose straight mineral oil for break-in followed by ashless
> dispersant oil once oil consumption stabilizes. The use of 100%
> synthetic oil has proven less than successful in aircraft applications
> inasmuch as it fails to properly deal with the combustion byproducts that
> enter the oil. Your multigrade aviation oils are typically a
> semi-synthetic. The better oils have additives that are designed to
> inhibit corrosion and reduce wear. The former is especially important in
> engines that are not run frequently.
>
> We had a guy at our local airport ruin his engine by running el-cheapo
> automotive oil in it. He had an engine worth $10k or better and
> complained about putting $4 /qt aviation oil in it when he could get auto
> oil at K-Mart for a buck a quart. When it started showing metal at 200
> hours he found that his cost savings was an illusion.
>
> Tim
>
> --------
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
> ______________
> CFII
> Champ L16A flying
> Zodiac XL - Jabiru 3300A
> Working on wings
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p-554#95554
>
>
> --
>
>
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